Installing HO Scale Flex Track & Turnouts | River Road - Vlog #15
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- čas přidán 31. 08. 2021
- In this episode I demonstrate how I wire, and lay track, on a particular HO Scale Model Train Shelf Layout. Larger traditional layouts may require a much different approach. I also discuss substrate (road-bed) options and sound reduction factors.
This is my favorite you tube channel. In all honesty it has nothing to do with the modeling or the trains. It has everything to do with the creator. Boomer truly is an inspirational personality. Every video is optimistic , positive and motivating. Thanks for sharing, Sir. Cheers 😃
Thank You! I feel privileged to be part of a very classy and intelligent community. Cheers ~ Boomer.
I agree - there is only one other channel on CZcams which has my undivided attention otherwise this is the best (I think you can have 2 favourites lol). As a newbie to model railroading I have learned so much from Boomer.
I was just reviewing my options (glue/modge podge, etc) and deciding whether or not to use cork underlay and this video came out. Thank you! (I've driven by the Glover Rd intersection many times over the years and now I'll appreciate it even more after I found your videos about a week ago - great work)
Thank You for commenting. Glover Road and Crush Crescent is a cool railroad location for sure. Very unique grain elevator. Unfortunately, it has seen better days and may be slated for demolition because the lease was not renewed by "Otter Co-Op" from CN who owns the property. Furthermore, SRY Railroad owns the main line there, and the spur, so that complicates things even more. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Fascinating! I have held out hope for a revival of the interurban train service and maybe the sight of passenger cars heading down that stretch will make up for the loss of the Milner elevator.
I'm in Delta and am looking for 24 gauge wire for feeders (as per your practice) but can't find the right store to buy it. My local hardware store didn't have any. And recommendations? And is two wire speaker wire in 22 gauge ok or should I make sure it's normal copper wire?
@@normvep Copper is the way to go. You can get 24 guage (hook-up) wire here in Langley @ smi-elec.com/category/Hook-1/hook-up-primary-wire?sortBy=category_seq_num&page=2&limit=10
Yeah wiring can be an absolute headache if you don't have good solid connections. The suitcase connectors are simple to do but they don't always give good connections, or they will sometimes cut right through the wires, and then you've got problems trying to find a short. There's nothing like the old solder iron for your wiring. Another great tutorial👍
Yes sir. Model railroading is fail when track and electrical are sub par. Nothing worse than constant derailments and shorts. The way to avoid them in my experience is to be obsessively thorough in track laying and wiring. Cheers.
I think some people confuse the sound deadening in laying track. It is not the sound coming from wheels that one is trying to deaden. It is the sound box created under the track work by the plywood and the framing. Like building a drum. You can hear it some videos on CZcams when a train runs across an area there is an extra drumming sound coming out from under the layout. It is vibration being transmitted down into that box and amplified by the box. That is the sound you want to deaden. Track noise is fine as long as your bench work is not enhancing the sound.
As to the cork, I have seen and heard that a dilute glycerin solution will rejuvenate the cork making it pliable again so you can get it laid out and glued in place.
By the way, great video! I agree with you on the bullet proof track. It is no fun showing off your trains if the trains keep derailing.
You are correct in the "snare-drum" (sound box) effect of plywood/framed layouts. It also becomes worse when you add a skin of hardened carpenters glue for ballast and scenery as well. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama I have wanted to do an experiment with the automotive sound deadening materials. In a place where that snare drum effect coming from under the layout exist and slap a piece of that up under there to see if it would deaden the sound. However, I just tore down my layout to build a new layout, so no place to try it.
@@dkaustin98 I tried that method with 'Glover Road' using one inch foam and it actually works. It's minimal. but it does work some.
For the hook-up wires, telephone wire is usually 24 gauge. Strip it out of the jacket and you've got red/green/black/white.
Great tip! Whatever works on hand for sure. Cheers.
Another great tutorial and series of musings! Thank you!
I agree with your sentiments regarding laying of track and the electrical connections required.
Electrically, I dislike the 'suitcase' style of connectors and have never used them, nor am I fan of running a bus line with soldered connections. Fortunately, I had access to expensive Weidmuller terminals from a resignalling job (my 1:1 career) where all the old terminals were thrown out. A simple request netted over 400 smaller types with many of them bussed in pairs complete with the mounting rail.
These form the basis of the distribution system, and though I chose crimping of wires with pin and bootlace lugs, it allows the layout to be broken up into many pieces for fault finding. I did note the colour coding used on the turnout... I used the same and even the red and black are in the same orientation!
As for track work, for the roadbed I went with cork on MDF secured by white glue, which gives some move time to tweak the track position. I do model in N so sound transmission is less of issue than larger scales.
Those connectors sound great. I get a certain peace-of-mind when the electrical integrity is secure. I never have to think about it. I also like 1/4" cork with 3/8" ply because I can pin things well and mount turnout throws easy. I like to work with MDF as well, especially when I hand-lay track. Thanks for sharing! Cheers.
Great video as usual Boomer!
I watched and studied many layout videos over the last few years on CZcams, and to be honest, was disappointed in all of them. My main problem was that in almost all cases the bench work just looked bad. And that takes the eye away from the main subject... the trains and the scene.
Knowing nothing about HO except loving those trains sense I was a kid, and only having a background in carpentry, and not modeling, I completed two separate layouts in a 10'x10' room over a period of 3 years.
After being unable to get track radious's correct, I took down both layouts in frustration without ever really running any trains.
After finding your channel a few months ago you made me realize I was attempting to much, to soon. I believe you said that the eye and mind only see what's in front of them at any given time, and watching Glover Road grow I realized that YES, the shelf layout is much less of a frustration, and actually becomes a build one can enjoy creating.
Prototype's don't run in circles anyway!
So, I'm starting new bench work for a shelf layout, and hopefully will turn into a Diarama in time. No handmade turnouts just yet, but maybe down the road.
Your patience, expertise and demeanor are everything when learning something new!
Thank You
Thank you for sharing exactly what I think about the model railroad in your own words and experience. In all honesty this is the way to go if you really want to model a railroad you love and reap all the benefits and rewards from the experience. You don't need to scratch build turnouts to do the same thing or achieve the same look. Just do what you love to do most and everything will come together for you. Pick a scene that you absolutely love about a specific railroad and compel your self to model it and expand on the concept. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Good soldering makes for good electrical flow
It sure does!
Instead of cork I used Woodland Scenics Road/Trackbed because it doesn't react to humidity. It deadens sound just fine and I glue it down with Elmer's, track too. It's solid as a rock.
That sounds great! One must go with what they feel comfortable with for sure. Cheers.
Track noise: There's a wide debate in our community about it. I don't really understand why the sound of rolling stock moving should be reduced.
Only last night I went down to the station. A tank car block train arrived from Italy. A diesel-electric switcher coupled on at the back and the electric loco at the front released the vacuum brakes and uncoupled. The switcher then moved the whole unbraked train back toward the western station throat. The noise of free rolling cars was considerable. Personally I'd like that modelled as another dimension, same as motive power sounds. Oh, and you might want to check out Richard's wonderful efforts (@ Everard Junction) in track laying. He actually left a bit of space between rail sections to get that clickety-clack sound. I remember it so well from my childhood.
Boomer, thanks for the tip regarding connectors, I didn't even think about resistance and went through a bit of trouble as I couldn't get the correct size in the country (paid 56% customs, jeeez).
Your well argued advice on the importance of sound construction is very valuable. No short cuts here, ey.
P.S.
Underlay: The petro-chemical softeners that make foam pliable evaporate and it crumbles - sooner or later. Use cork.
CA: moisture and CO2 make it go off, so buy smaller packaging and keep closing the lid. No need to store it in the fridge, makes no difference. If or when you want to remove it however, use acetone. No need to chuck that resin kit in the garbage.
Glover Road had no cork, foam, or rubber. Just varathane over 3/16 mahogany plywood. It sounded fine to me. But then I had a tighter build budget . . . lol. Cheers.
I use Liquid nails for glueing down my track, works quite well. Excellent video as usual Boomer. The only reason I don’t prefer CA is that it is almost very permanent, if you have to pull the track you will most likely tear it apart.
Liquid nails is fine as well. I only use CA for Cork and Plywood. CA mounted track slices off smooth with a good soaking of Isopropyl Alcohol and a knife. Just like the turnouts I build when I remove them from the CA attached plywood. No need to tear it apart if done this way carefully. Besides, I can easily build another turnout. Cheers.
Excellent information and techniques.
Glad it was helpful!
Really coming along Boomer! Gonna be very cool, I know it! 👊😀👍
I feel really good about this layout. Probably more so than any other I have built in the past. Cheers.
Hi again, great video as always , re the wire taps connecting the feeders to the bus, coming from an automotive background wire taps were public enemy number one ! However after doing research on them the problem is usually incompatible wire gauge/size and with a large/medium size layout with so many feeders I decided it easier to choose that path , yes soldering is better but I have had no issues with the "T-Taps" I chose (they can be a bugger to install properly at times) and make for an easy disconnect (spade terminal on the track feeder-bus) of that section of track. A shelf layout like yours I would solder. Where I have had to extend my bus wires I have soldered.
I get why people use wire taps. No problem there. I just don't like extra "links" in the chain because I have a conservative approach to things. Every model railroad is different like every personality and application. Most times I implement a certain practice because it is what I have on hand at the time so I use it. Cheers.
Caulk for gluing roadbed to sub-road bed, then use the same to stick the track down. For ballasting, use Matte Medium as opposed to white glue. Will be quieter than the more traditional materials. Agree with you about foam insulation. Not a fan of homasote. Cork isn't much better, but it's definitely cleaner to use. For ultimate sound deadening, use foam "camper tape" for road bed, with caulk as the adhesive for both it and the track.
Lot's of adhesive alternatives and road bed material in the twenty-first century for sure. I think with a shelf layout it doesn't really matter what you use. The previous one made no discernable noise other than the odd "squeaky" truck and it was built on 3/16 plywood and plywood frames . . . go figure. Cheers.
Great track work is key. Slow and methodical is the way.
Track work is the most important if you want to run trains.
I really dislike foam as well, plus I'm modelling a very flat area. Interesting use of CA for flex track, I'll have to give that a try. Certainly dries faster than white glue.
CA is a good way to tack down the track. The ballasting medium usually does the rest for me. Cheers.
Another inspirational video! Thank you! I haven't decided if I am going to put my track on cork or not this time, but you've given me some options to think about. I've used the pink 2-inch foam board before, but am going to NOT use it this time. So either right on the plywood, or sheet cork in the yard and industrial area and cork roadbed in the spaces between. Question about your tangents, using flex track. Do you do any weathering to the ties, such as painting, snipping ends on a few here and there so they are not perfectly straight, etc. - Paul @ the PLZ&W
Thank You. I don't care to build on foam. Tried it a few times and the only advantage was to carve it when shaping terrain etc. I will use it for sculpting edge work etc. but not for track substrate. It's to unstable for me. In regards to the tangent track, including turnouts I used to paint it separately, then lay it down. This is fine. But over the years I like to paint it all in place with an airbrush. Why? Because I can move and control the terrain color with more continuity. It actually looks like the track should be there this way. I will demo this process soon as well. Cheers.
For a small layout like this I would go with 14 ga bus wire instead of 12. Its cheaper, easier to work with, and still has plenty of copper to keep loses down.
Sure thing. 14 Guage is fine for sure. I tend to build with the "commercial" (over-kill) doctrine in mind. I used to use 12 Guage for O Scale (AC Three-rail) so I indoctrinated myself . . . lol. Cheers.
What a great talent, great teacher. what do you use to fasten cork to plywood
I use the yellow carpenter's glue with weights. I basically brush out the glue with a damp 2" brush and lay down plywood pieces (books or whatever), and weights for 24 hours and it's good to go. I really like this method, especially when it come s to mounting accessories, signals, trees, etc. Furthermore, I can carve in right-of-way ditches and lower elevation sidings and spurs, etc.
thank you, i was confused with the mention of matt medium, all clear now
Been waiting for this part of the build. Have you ever tried the roadbed strip by Woodland Scenics?
No. But roadbed by Woodland Scenics has it's place if you desire. I have used some other cork strip in the past for mainline runs, small yards, etc. I like the sheet cork for this application because I can arrange (revise) my track on the fly without committing to a cork road bed already established, and it works better for multiple turnouts in a congested area. Furthermore, I can carve in subtle undulations in the terrain without committing to foam board which I don't like to build on. Other methods are acceptable as well if you so choose. I also like cork because it is light weight and takes glue well.
In vlog 15 i think you mentioned glueing the cork to the plywood with diluted matt medium. How diluted? Dou you wet out both the plywood and cork? Thx
No. I used carpenter (yellow) Glue. Then used weights on top to hold down.
@@boomerdiorama thank you
Forget where I heard it but CA can be kept fresh if stored in a freezer. Otherwise it has a shelf life of about a year.
I use it up in a week sometimes . . . Most cases in a month when I use half ounce bottles. Cheers.
Howzit : It Is My Longtime Experience That No Matter What Sub-Roadbed Type Is Used ( I Am A 12 mm / 7-Ply Plywood and 4 mm Cork Boyo ); Once You Apply and Glue-Down Ballast; You Will Inevitably Invite A Certain Degree Of Sound-Resonance .... And This Ocurrs Whether You Pin or Caulk Your Trackwork. Life Is A Harsh Reality !
You are correct in your analysis. I do find diluted "Matte Medium" much better than diluted carp glue for ballast though. I doesn't create the "snare drum" effect that harder glues do when it dries. Matte medium dry's to a rubbery softer texture.
this is not going to be done by 2022 but it's going to look good
No rush. Loads of content coming! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Hi Boomer,
Off the subject of turnouts for a moment could I throw out a couple of basic questions?
On the matter of bench work I mentioned below, I have used 1" pink foam board in the past without very good results, due to it being so easily damaged. If you were to re-due Glover Road again would you still use 3/16" for the surface thickness (Top) or increase the thickness?
And secondly, Code 83 track was recommended exclusively by my local hobby shop (which is now out of business) because it supposedly is closest to the prototype, but really didn't look right once the track was layed.
What code or codes would you suggest for a main line as well as sidings in a yard setting like Glover Road?
I'm thinking about a shelf 12' x18".
Thank You Boomer...
Hello Steven, sorry for the delay in responding to your question.
The beauty of "HO" Scale is we can get close to the prototype in rail variation. Something "N" scale has difficulty with.
1. I would probably use 1/4" plywood if I was to re-due "Glover Road." Why? Because I think it is more stable than 3/16" as it spans the frames underneath reducing any warping that can occur. Unless, of course, you desire this effect.
2. As to (Atlas) Code 83, I just happened to have alot of it laying around at the time because I had no other options. I wish I would have used Micro Engineering Code 70 in hindsight. In respect to 'River Road' I am using ME Code 70 and it looks more protypical than Code 83 for sure - especially the ties. For the sidings I would use Code 50 on hand-layed ties, which is what I will do on some sidings with 'River Road' provided they are of low traffic and use. I hope that helps some. This is where I order my ME Code 70: www.ovrtrains.com/Micro-Engineering/
Cheers.
Boomer, Thank You for your response. And yes, it helps a great deal, especially after two failed attempts getting those areas of the build correct!
Thank You as well for the website to Micro Engineering, and the best code of rail to use.
While I'm trying to duplicate our inland seaport here in Stockton as my model, (without the water of course, just from the dock to the warehouses) I'm also using Glover Road as my inspiration.
So watching River Road from the beginning, and having the Glover series to go back and watch is a win win for continued learning.
I never would have realized how much Art plays a major role in building a model railroad had it not been for you sharing your talent of both.
The Artful touch literally turns the trains, and equipment into real life!
Thanks Again Boomer...
@@stevenstorey1945 It is a good way to think about things if you view the track as a model as well. Cheers.
Boomer, I fully agree with your stance against Insulation Displacement connectors (Scotch-lock, Suitcase whatever name brand they go by). While they may be easier to use they do cause problems with connection resistance and they crimp into the bus effectively reducing it's size and hence total current carrying capacity when you add up al the "crimps". I'm always more confident with a soldered joint than a mechanical one!
I fully agree with you. Besides, what about DCC code running through the Bus? DCC isn't perfect but why introduce greater fallibility with higher resistance and shady connections. I'll give you an example: I wired a huge layout at a museum once. The owner thought I was crazy until he called in a professional electrician to put a meter on it. The electrician said whoever wired this layout, they made it bullet proof. Even if you drop some feeders due to "cold solder" the layout resistance stays low and reliable. I solder pig-tailed every single connection and they never once had a problem due to track voltage. End of story. Cheers.
Where do you get your sheets of cork?
Windsor Plywood in Langley.
Really like your content and really admire the quality of your work, but as a railroad engineer IRL, I can tell you the one thing industrial trackage isn't is straight. It's the least maintained of any track and keeping your layout's track laser straight is going to take away from that grungy industrial, off the beaten path, vibe a scene like the one you're modeling should have.
Thank You for sharing that Lewis. I would agree with you concerning your first hand experience and professional opinion concerning trackage condition. On the other hand, The SRY Railroad is one of the best maintained short lines I have ever seen. In some cases, it is as good as a Class "1" railroad. Washington Corporation has the money to spend on it. I met the man, it is one of his "pet" projects. There are some areas I will attempt to model (like a siding, etc.) along the order of what you so correctly described. But, for the most part this railroad is meticulous. In fact they just rebuilt and replaced a new trestle bridge (unfortunately because I loved the old one), with an expensive new one. They are not afraid to spend upgrade and maintenance money on this lovely and historical short line. I'll post a pic in the community tab so you can see what I mean. Cheers mate ~ Boomer.
I'm kinda new to Dcc so does sound deadening really matter with a loud engine running? ☕🍻👍
Yes, you don't get rolling noise only from engines ;-)
I matters if you are running DCC with sound. Which for me the sound adds to the fun hearing my equipment working hard when switching.
Sound deadening is entirely optional and up to you. I find six-axle locomotives benefit the most from sound deadening applications and associated layers like glue, matte medium, etc. Cheers.
Got it thanks!
I have not tried using Superglue to tack down my track and turnouts. But maybe I could do a little test piece. See if I like the results. I use caulk. It moves with the track and rail movement with temperature changes, ease to remove if I need to repair a turnout, or change my mind on the right a ways. But then it will all be held down with ballast anyway. Also it's interesting how you isolate your turnouts. Something I had not tried ether. Would you still do this technique if you were building a small yard? Say seven tracks with 12 turnouts to build your ladders? Say 6 turnouts on each end? Just curious? It would be worth it if the work comes out bullet prof? Yes I know nothing is, but as you wrote the closer you can come to bullet prof, the more fun running right?
I probably wouldn't isolate each turnout in the ladder, but I would definitely isolate the ladder/yard from the rest of the layout. The whole point of an "Electrical Bus" is to do this very thing and to assure peak voltage and minimal resistance - especially with DCC, when a signal is running through the bus. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama I see said the blind man. That's interesting. And now makes sense. Thank you.
I just bought a Rapido sw1200 kit like the one you showed on Utube and would like to swap my extra flexi trucks for your type a trucks. Please let me know here and I’ll send you my address via email. Paul in Virginia
O.K. Paul, but you will have to post your E-mail here for 12 hours or so, so I can retrieve it, then delete it. I'm not posting mine. Right now it it 8:45 PM. I'll check it in the morning, then delete it. Then I'll send you a confirmation. Cheers.
Boomer do you run feeders to the point rails
Great question. Yes, however, the point rails (which are isolated from the frog) are connected (soldered) via the PC board ties to the closure rails.
I insulate (gap) the center PC ties except the point rails always have power and are never dependent on closure contact to the outside rail. All you have to worry about is the polarity of the frog which I address in two ways. One: I use the switch machine to change polarity according to the route. Two: I use a "Frog juicer" which makes everything simple and reliable.
With a frog juicer you can still "split" the points (drive through them) and the frog juicer prevents a short.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you, you are very kind., i thought i had a firm grasp of the obvious. i am adding feeders to my hand laid turnouts that a friend made, the fear is real.