Pay attention people! I hand laid all of my track and turnouts after considerable reading and watching videos. The 3 main items I would take from Boomer's methods here is 1/ the frog. Fitting one leg to the other in this manner eliminates filing two legs to that razor thin point and angle for soldering. 2/ the points. I made my points out of a solid length of rail and activate them by implementing a centralized "choke cable" mechanism made out of welding wire and surgical tubing. B's two piece point would be more forgiving and easier to manipulate. 3/ Tinning the copper ties. I don't remember any of the examples I found in my research mentioning tinning the cross ties ahead of welding the rails in place. I spiked all of mine then struggled to solder them in. Thanks Boomer for making it easier for the next guy. With high regards...AGH, The Elora White Lime Co.
All of Fast Tracks stuff is a real boost to our hobby IMO. It was more challenging than I anticipated, but I built a code 100 18" and 15" radius three - way for my son's bedroom sized 4x8 layout, which is based on plan #29 from Kalmbach's "101 Track Plans". After watching some of Fast Track's amazing "Bronx Terminal Railroad" videos, I was emboldened to attempt it. Two reasons - the OG track plan had no train length reversing track as it was shown in the book. I knew at least one train length reverse track is a good item to include in any loop track plan. By making the sharply curved three way, I was able to add a Wye junction, a continuous oval route isolated from the lower level switching areas, and a train length reverse loop - three route elements in one - plus a tower and new industrial switching area with two spurs - in the space where only a 90 degree crossing was before. Second - most every modeler I asked said it couldn't be done with sharper than #6 turnout angles. By the time I had completed that three way, building regular #4 and 18" R turnouts seemed like child's play. I only made one mistake - I originally built it for "selective" electrical routing. Bad idea - when my son switched to DCC I had to tediously re-build that three way to all rail electrical routing with isolated powered frogs. I now build all my turnouts that way from the start.
Once you get past building a couple of turnouts, it becomes routine. It also liberates the model railroader in terms of track plans. Anything becomes possible. Thanks for sharing. Cheers.
Morning, thanks again for this informative video on turnouts and how to construct the 3 way turnout and I hope you are feeling much better with your health....thanks
Yet another fabulous demonstration of making the complex simple. Just do one step at a time, stay flexible, fine tune at the end. And you end up with a beautiful product that anyone can be proud of. At the end you expressed your appreciation for your mature audience. Your mature audience is a result of your humility and no nonsense presentation. In every video you always say " I'm no expert", "There are many ways to do this", "This is just the way that I like to do it", and "Just do what works for you". You never brush off other approaches or methods. You never belittle anyone or anything. No bluster, hype or pontification. I get that this is your natural way of being and I can really identify with it. Stay cool Boomer, we all love you just the way you are.
Real model railroaders build their own turnouts. Nice work! Yeah ... that's how I build my frogs, too. I've never tried a lapped turnout, though... I work in N scale. Your advice on spot-soldering the stock rails is well-taken; you need to be able to gauge the stock rails with the closure rails as you build up the turnout.
Great tips! I also build my own turnouts, and find it very satisfying. I started building them out of because I model 1920s era steam and wanted code 70 & 55 rail. It is very satisfying to build a turnout that equipment rolls through perfectly.
Yes indeed Russ, it certainly is. Hand laying track and turnouts is a deeply satisfying experience. In fact, it is quite immersive knowing you lay the rail to run your favorite locomotive on as well! ;-)
I have a curved turnout that has been giving me fits (I tried some different construction methods). Yesterday I decided it was time to build a replacement. The replacement is a 22" outer 20" inner radius. The best part of building my own turnouts is I can build what I need to fit a particular space.
Boomer, like I’ve said before, I love the way you make turnout building accessible and almost intuitive, educational, informative and inter-active, to throw in some extra superlatives. Wow, your threeway is a masterpiece! And, yeah, this community is indeed exemplary, meditative almost. Anyhow, am curious for your dry runs and test runs. Respect bro, cheers.
I appreciate that! I'm looking forward to the "dry-runs" as well. Especially on the slip. I also have to bury some of the approach track (asphalt) as well. Cheers
Another great video. As with any building project, it's always a series of smaller assemblies. You break it down so well, making the seemingly difficult, realistically simple. Anyone can achieve these results if they're willing to try. It also achieves one of my must have goals, the most modeling hours for the dollar. Well done!
Thank You Ted. It's nice to put a good dent in the track laying procedure on the layout. Sometimes it feels like not much is achieved, but things are moving a comfortable pace. Cheers.
I really appreciate the time you put in all the details to make something regardless of what it is. I am doing some modeling that I would not have undertake otherwise. caching up with your program channel.
Looking forward to the landscape, the painting and the buildings. Will probably never build my own turnouts but I watch it all anyway. So relaxing and inspiring. Greetings from Stockholm, Sweden 🇸🇪😀
Boomer, the 3-way not only turned out beautifully, but will be well worth your time in building it when it comes to the extra tracks for the shop and storing engines! From the quick photo you showed of the overall scene, and the amount of space you have to work with this is going to be perfect. Great work and planning! Many Cheers...
Yet another great video, Boomer! Your track and turnout instructional demonstrations, are a true inspiration, to start building our own scale track. I love the idea of siding, or yard track, building , surrounded by high grass! As always; Great work, Boomer!
Well, being all grown up and mature... I have to say commercial turnouts are envious and all your other turnouts want to be near this one! But seriously, top notch: the work, the look, the explanation. Wonderful.
I always felt that commercial turnouts were over-priced and limited. Ultimately, this is what drove me to build my own long ago. Not to mention, the freedom to flesh out any track plan at will. Cheers.
What a beautiful turnout! Love to watch you build these; you make it seem so simple. I really do like your technique of starting at the throat, then the exit, then moving to the middle to adjust. Great way to do it! Thanks, Boomer!
I scratch built one of these a few years back for our club layout using a paper template from Fast Tracks as well. Ive been using their method of turnout building for over fifteen years (geez has it been that long?). We needed it for the throat into our 11 track staging area. I've had one of the throwbar ties break a solder joint once ever since it's been installed. Otherwise, it's seen years of club use and abuse and it's still going strong.
I only broke one throw bar as well with the scratch built turnout. Even then, I had to reef on it some to brake it. The little brass pin method may seem fiddley but it makes them almost bullet proof. Personally, I can't stand commercial turnouts even though I know they have their place. Learning to build turnouts is well worth the effort in this hobby for sure, although, I do understand why some never bother as well. The one thing I do like about custom built turnouts is the live points by way of a PC board tie, not to mention the power routed frog as well. Although, the latter is not as important now-a-days with DCC and "Keep alive." Cheers.
Hey Boomer, I'm really glad you made these turnout vids. Now when I'm conceptualizing a part of my layout I don't see manufactured turnout availability as a restriction. I feel like I can just build whatever I might need to match the geometry that works for me. And that 3 way turnout, that's one of those things that makes a railroading observer stop and take notice. I really like the asymmetry and lines of that thing!
@@boomerdiorama A single slip or double slip TO should not be that much of a hassle after the 3-way. You may need to solder things together more before putting them in place. Watch some of the videos of Swiss, Austrian, and German cab view trips in the terminals and junctions. WOW. There are standard plans available for several railroads that use double slips and they are between #6 and #12. I think the AREA Plan Book has them in it.
parabéns pelo talento e dedicação!!! gosto e me identifico com seu grau de perfeccionismo!!! tbm sou assim, ainda não criei nenhum diorama, mas fiz um vagão tanque muito detalhado, cometi alguns erros, pois é o primeiro que faço, penso da forma de fazer bem, porque se não for pra fazer bem feito, melhor é nem começar. Parabéns pelo seu ótimo trabalho, é uma aula pra nosso aprendizado!!!
I you can embrace the shelf layout philosophy, you are in for a treat of a hobby. Check this podcast out if you can on shelf layouts. The next show is on Tuesday night. I hang out there with other modelers n the genre. czcams.com/video/w9cCGdUNeaI/video.html
I must admit I took the easy route and had all my turnouts made for me, used a well known u-tuber to build them for me using FastTracks jigs, I have a pair of three ways and you are right, they are ideal for a shelf set up.. great vid and explanation as usual.. looking fwd to the wiring vid :)
That is awesome Paul! Maybe I should build another one. Actually, I just built a code 50 #5 RH yesterday. I'm planning on building it out to a code 40 stub! Cheers.
I agree. Perfect for a shelf layout ( which is all I ever built over last few layouts). However, my life is currently in a time crunch. In order to make enough money to stay in a home for 5-10 years, without moving, I have to really hustle & work long hours & commute at least 2 hours a day. Employers here have taken advantage of this by keeping hourly pay low, & unfortunately that leaves me little time to enjoy much outside of working & paying bills, unless I move or work out of state again..
I have three three way switches on my layout with one more to build. Of course mine are stub switches, WAY easier to build. Fantastic work. I look forward to all your work.
If one day i put a full scale switch in my backyard it will be stub type. Simplest, easiest and cheapest. Easier to move one rail at the time then pin it in position. Then move next one. 80 pounds rails or smaller, like 60 will be easier to bend. No frog. Just a 2- 3 feet piece of rail. Unbolt joint bars, rotate it then bolt back. Operation should take 30 to 40 minutes. Everything being push or pull with a tractor. Just wonder in that scale if it´s still model railroading ?... Can be probably done in HO, with a pivot rod weld to "frog rail base through anything solid below and maintain with sliding joints to track. Nickname it "El Cheapo" turnout. 😊
Why use rail joiner on point rail? It's flexible enough to leave as solid rail all the way. I love the look of hand laid rail and turnouts. Very ,very nice job.
Good point Bob! I just felt the points were a little short and since the drawing indicated "hinge" I went with the hinge. But yes, I think you could use solid rail as well, thus eliminating any further resistance due to the "floating" rail connector. Cheers.
The turnouts on full-size, mostly on the main line, have the points welded to the closure rails because most points for turnouts of #16 and above will be 22 ft, 30 ft, 39 ft, or longer. The frogs of #24 and above turnouts for mainline speed turnouts for passing tracks and junctions will be movable point and no guard rails on the field stock rail. A #16 lead is 131' 4" and a #20 lead is 151' 11 1/2". The turnout lead is the distance from the point of switch (PS) to the actual point of frog (PF). The actual point of frog is where the point metal is 6 inches across or thick and is 1/2 of the frog number in inches from where the theoretical gauge lines of the frog cross. Any metal in a frog less than 1/2 inch wide would be damaged very quickly under traffic if it was actually there. I think the lead of a #30 would be somewhere around 200 ft and these would be used where traffic is 60 to 79 mph or higher in the NEC on Amtrak. Most model railroad mainline turnouts are #6 or #8 while the minimum prototype turnout is a #10 which has a maximum TO speed of 15 mph.
Boomer, all my turnouts are done on Fastracks fixtures and am very happy with my results. You mentioned something I had never heard before can you show us or explain how you use brass rod on the points of the turnout. Thanks!
Here is the tutorial where I demo the brass pin on the points. The "Time Stamp" is below the video in the description below it: czcams.com/video/wuy0xyApOdg/video.html
Boomer, you out did yourself on the three way turnout. I’m an n scaler and I use the fast tracks jig. Yes it does make it a little easier but when I watch you build them, and I wish I saved the money on it and build them your way. I really enjoy watching you build your rr
Sorry about that I hit the send button by mistake. I do enjoy watching you build your layout. You are very careful but you know what your doing. I always pick up tips from you and it makes building my layout more fun. Look forward to your next video stay safe and happy railroading. Otto
There is something very satisfying when we build a turnout regardless of the method. Even more so when a train tracks smoothly through it. Thank You for commenting! Cheers.
Good day I enjoy your posts a lot could you please give me the clover house tie number what you use to build your points thank you and keep up the great job you taught me a lot and hoping to learn a lot more.
Thanks for sharing. Did you use weathered rail? Or did you paint it? You have helped me make a better turnout. Thank you. Mine or N scale. But they are 100% better now. Redoing my past turnouts. Thanks.
Yes. I happened to have several bundles of "weathered" rail from past projects. The weathered rail is a little more work to prep for solder but they look good and paint easier. I would recommend un-weathered stock if you plan to build turnouts, especially in "N" scale. The "weathered" oxidization resists a good solder and in fact introduces a "cold' solder. Cheers.
Say Uncle Boomer, do you distress the the styrene ties with your razor saw technique? or do you just paint them and call it a day? Thanks again really appreciate ya!
Yes. I do distress the styrene ties with the razor saw. Distressing the ties not only enhances the look (when panted and pin washed), but also increases the adhesion factor when you CA them to the nickel rail. Anytime you use CA (super-glue), it is always a good idea to score both surfaces because CA is a "mechanical" bond. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama good point ! I've always been aware certain adhesives work better on specific materials. CA usually works well enough to bond small details, even without scraping off paint... but finding I constantly have to repair falling "pipes" off my refinery columns (scratchbuilt around inverted glass test tubes). Always abrasively distress everything glossy & non-porous, before using any glue. The only time you want a perfectly polished & smooth glossy surface is your railheads, or when applying decals.
Boomer, Hope you are doing well. Please, I would like to know what is a good soldering iron (wattage) for the "Sweet" solder method ? I Will use code 100 rail. Thanks.
Hello Boomer, my wife and I really love watching your Channel. Building those turnouts look very detailed to the point my wife said "he should make and sell those". Anyways if you like small compact layouts please check out ours at M&M Model Railways
Thank You Pastor Nicodemus. Pass my respect onto your wife and family. Unfortunately, there is no real economic sense to sell these at my age and stage of career. I prefer to share what I can and enjoy the hobby like everyone else. God Bless You! Cheers ~ Boomer.
That's O.K. I understand. I used to really like the older "Shinohara" (commercial) turnouts back in the day. Almost every option and size was available then. Cheers.
I agree. When i had more free time & nowhere to go or be, I started to scratchbuild everything. Now that people have seen my value, I am too busy helping & working, that I have little spare time to enjoy the hobby to the fullest. Remember, we all have a finite number of hours on this planet, & no amount of money changes that !
@@TheTwabster I agree with what you say. On the other hand, if one has sufficient income at reduced hours, more time is available for modelling. For me , I also dumped all the "other" hobbies I had in order to focus on the model railroad. This made a huge difference in terms of time management. Time does seem to fly-by fast the older one gets though for sure. Cheers.
Pay attention people! I hand laid all of my track and turnouts after considerable reading and watching videos. The 3 main items I would take from Boomer's methods here is 1/ the frog. Fitting one leg to the other in this manner eliminates filing two legs to that razor thin point and angle for soldering. 2/ the points. I made my points out of a solid length of rail and activate them by implementing a centralized "choke cable" mechanism made out of welding wire and surgical tubing. B's two piece point would be more forgiving and easier to manipulate. 3/ Tinning the copper ties. I don't remember any of the examples I found in my research mentioning tinning the cross ties ahead of welding the rails in place. I spiked all of mine then struggled to solder them in.
Thanks Boomer for making it easier for the next guy. With high regards...AGH, The Elora White Lime Co.
O.K. Thank you!
All of Fast Tracks stuff is a real boost to our hobby IMO. It was more challenging than I anticipated, but I built a code 100 18" and 15" radius three - way for my son's bedroom sized 4x8 layout, which is based on plan #29 from Kalmbach's "101 Track Plans". After watching some of Fast Track's amazing "Bronx Terminal Railroad" videos, I was emboldened to attempt it. Two reasons - the OG track plan had no train length reversing track as it was shown in the book. I knew at least one train length reverse track is a good item to include in any loop track plan. By making the sharply curved three way, I was able to add a Wye junction, a continuous oval route isolated from the lower level switching areas, and a train length reverse loop - three route elements in one - plus a tower and new industrial switching area with two spurs - in the space where only a 90 degree crossing was before. Second - most every modeler I asked said it couldn't be done with sharper than #6 turnout angles. By the time I had completed that three way, building regular #4 and 18" R turnouts seemed like child's play. I only made one mistake - I originally built it for "selective" electrical routing. Bad idea - when my son switched to DCC I had to tediously re-build that three way to all rail electrical routing with isolated powered frogs. I now build all my turnouts that way from the start.
Once you get past building a couple of turnouts, it becomes routine. It also liberates the model railroader in terms of track plans. Anything becomes possible. Thanks for sharing. Cheers.
Morning, thanks again for this informative video on turnouts and how to construct the 3 way turnout and I hope you are feeling much better with your health....thanks
Thank You for that. Despite the dreadful allergy season here I am feeling pretty good. Cheers.
Yet another fabulous demonstration of making the complex simple. Just do one step at a time, stay flexible, fine tune at the end. And you end up with a beautiful product that anyone can be proud of.
At the end you expressed your appreciation for your mature audience.
Your mature audience is a result of your humility and no nonsense presentation. In every video you always say " I'm no expert", "There are many ways to do this", "This is just the way that I like to do it", and "Just do what works for you". You never brush off other approaches or methods. You never belittle anyone or anything. No bluster, hype or pontification.
I get that this is your natural way of being and I can really identify with it.
Stay cool Boomer, we all love you just the way you are.
Thank You Dave. I appreciate that very much. It makes a big difference when the community is as supportive as you just demonstrated. Cheers ~ Boomer.
Real model railroaders build their own turnouts. Nice work!
Yeah ... that's how I build my frogs, too. I've never tried a lapped turnout, though... I work in N scale.
Your advice on spot-soldering the stock rails is well-taken; you need to be able to gauge the stock rails with the closure rails as you build up the turnout.
😁👍
Great tips! I also build my own turnouts, and find it very satisfying. I started building them out of because I model 1920s era steam and wanted code 70 & 55 rail. It is very satisfying to build a turnout that equipment rolls through perfectly.
Yes indeed Russ, it certainly is. Hand laying track and turnouts is a deeply satisfying experience. In fact, it is quite immersive knowing you lay the rail to run your favorite locomotive on as well! ;-)
I have a curved turnout that has been giving me fits (I tried some different construction methods). Yesterday I decided it was time to build a replacement. The replacement is a 22" outer 20" inner radius. The best part of building my own turnouts is I can build what I need to fit a particular space.
Spectacular job! There's nothing like something that you make with your own hands and the satisfaction you get from it is amazing! Awesome work👍👍
Thank you very much! The next challenge is a double slip . . . lol. Cheers.
Many thanks for sharing I love your videos.
My pleasure!
Boomer, like I’ve said before, I love the way you make turnout building accessible and almost intuitive, educational, informative and inter-active, to throw in some extra superlatives. Wow, your threeway is a masterpiece! And, yeah, this community is indeed exemplary, meditative almost. Anyhow, am curious for your dry runs and test runs. Respect bro, cheers.
I appreciate that! I'm looking forward to the "dry-runs" as well. Especially on the slip. I also have to bury some of the approach track (asphalt) as well. Cheers
Another great video. As with any building project, it's always a series of smaller assemblies. You break it down so well, making the seemingly difficult, realistically simple. Anyone can achieve these results if they're willing to try. It also achieves one of my must have goals, the most modeling hours for the dollar. Well done!
Thank You Ted. It's nice to put a good dent in the track laying procedure on the layout. Sometimes it feels like not much is achieved, but things are moving a comfortable pace. Cheers.
Hello again Boomer. Ive been quietly lurking and loving your vlogs (last 3). Beautiful trackwork *thumbs Up*
Glad you like them! Thank You. Cheers.
I really appreciate the time you put in all the details to make something regardless of what it is. I am doing some modeling that I would not have undertake otherwise. caching up with your program channel.
Thank You! Glad to hear you are plugging into the creative side of our human nature. Cheers.
Looking forward to the landscape, the painting and the buildings. Will probably never build my own turnouts but I watch it all anyway. So relaxing and inspiring. Greetings from Stockholm, Sweden 🇸🇪😀
Thanks 👍
Boomer, the 3-way not only turned out beautifully, but will be well worth your time in building it when it comes to the extra tracks for the shop and storing engines! From the quick photo you showed of the overall scene, and the amount of space you have to work with this is going to be perfect.
Great work and planning!
Many Cheers...
I'm happy with it for sure. I guess the next challenge would be to try and build a double slip. Not today though . . . lol. Cheers.
Yet another great video, Boomer!
Your track and turnout instructional demonstrations, are a true inspiration, to start building our own scale track.
I love the idea of siding, or yard track, building , surrounded by high grass!
As always; Great work, Boomer!
Awesome, thank you!
Well, being all grown up and mature... I have to say commercial turnouts are envious and all your other turnouts want to be near this one! But seriously, top notch: the work, the look, the explanation. Wonderful.
I always felt that commercial turnouts were over-priced and limited. Ultimately, this is what drove me to build my own long ago. Not to mention, the freedom to flesh out any track plan at will. Cheers.
Beautiful work Boomer.
Thank you Peter! Cheers!
What a beautiful turnout! Love to watch you build these; you make it seem so simple. I really do like your technique of starting at the throat, then the exit, then moving to the middle to adjust. Great way to do it! Thanks, Boomer!
Thank you very much!
I scratch built one of these a few years back for our club layout using a paper template from Fast Tracks as well. Ive been using their method of turnout building for over fifteen years (geez has it been that long?). We needed it for the throat into our 11 track staging area. I've had one of the throwbar ties break a solder joint once ever since it's been installed. Otherwise, it's seen years of club use and abuse and it's still going strong.
I only broke one throw bar as well with the scratch built turnout. Even then, I had to reef on it some to brake it. The little brass pin method may seem fiddley but it makes them almost bullet proof. Personally, I can't stand commercial turnouts even though I know they have their place. Learning to build turnouts is well worth the effort in this hobby for sure, although, I do understand why some never bother as well. The one thing I do like about custom built turnouts is the live points by way of a PC board tie, not to mention the power routed frog as well. Although, the latter is not as important now-a-days with DCC and "Keep alive." Cheers.
Very nice work.
Thank you! Cheers!
Three way switches? No can do right now! But yours looks awesome!!!!
I must challenge myself to a double slip next! Cheers.
Hey Boomer, I'm really glad you made these turnout vids. Now when I'm conceptualizing a part of my layout I don't see manufactured turnout availability as a restriction. I feel like I can just build whatever I might need to match the geometry that works for me. And that 3 way turnout, that's one of those things that makes a railroading observer stop and take notice. I really like the asymmetry and lines of that thing!
Glad you like them! Once you build one of these, all the rest seem easy . . . except a double slip . . . lol. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama A single slip or double slip TO should not be that much of a hassle after the 3-way. You may need to solder things together more before putting them in place. Watch some of the videos of Swiss, Austrian, and German cab view trips in the terminals and junctions. WOW. There are standard plans available for several railroads that use double slips and they are between #6 and #12. I think the AREA Plan Book has them in it.
parabéns pelo talento e dedicação!!! gosto e me identifico com seu grau de perfeccionismo!!! tbm sou assim, ainda não criei nenhum diorama, mas fiz um vagão tanque muito detalhado, cometi alguns erros, pois é o primeiro que faço, penso da forma de fazer bem, porque se não for pra fazer bem feito, melhor é nem começar. Parabéns pelo seu ótimo trabalho, é uma aula pra nosso aprendizado!!!
Cheers.
This is incredible! Planning a layout right now and this is going to be such an absolute space saver.
I you can embrace the shelf layout philosophy, you are in for a treat of a hobby. Check this podcast out if you can on shelf layouts. The next show is on Tuesday night. I hang out there with other modelers n the genre. czcams.com/video/w9cCGdUNeaI/video.html
I really enjoy watching your work. You are a inspiration. To myself and I'm sure many others. Thank You...
My pleasure, and you are welcome! Cheers.
I must admit I took the easy route and had all my turnouts made for me, used a well known u-tuber to build them for me using FastTracks jigs, I have a pair of three ways and you are right, they are ideal for a shelf set up.. great vid and explanation as usual.. looking fwd to the wiring vid :)
That is awesome Paul! Maybe I should build another one. Actually, I just built a code 50 #5 RH yesterday. I'm planning on building it out to a code 40 stub! Cheers.
I agree. Perfect for a shelf layout ( which is all I ever built over last few layouts). However, my life is currently in a time crunch. In order to make enough money to stay in a home for 5-10 years, without moving, I have to really hustle & work long hours & commute at least 2 hours a day. Employers here have taken advantage of this by keeping hourly pay low, & unfortunately that leaves me little time to enjoy much outside of working & paying bills, unless I move or work out of state again..
Great job Boomer the do look like the real thing 😀👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Another good show, informative and fun to watch. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers.
Awesome mate
Thank you! Cheers!
I have three three way switches on my layout with one more to build. Of course mine are stub switches, WAY easier to build. Fantastic work. I look forward to all your work.
Wow! That is cool. I almost prefer the stub switch over "blade" style points. They have a more positive connect to them. Cheers.
If one day i put a full scale switch in my backyard it will be stub type. Simplest, easiest and cheapest.
Easier to move one rail at the time then pin it in position. Then move next one. 80 pounds rails or smaller, like 60 will be easier to bend.
No frog. Just a 2- 3 feet piece of rail.
Unbolt joint bars, rotate it then bolt back. Operation should take 30 to 40 minutes. Everything being push or pull with a tractor. Just wonder in that scale if it´s still model railroading ?...
Can be probably done in HO, with a pivot rod weld to "frog rail base through anything solid below and maintain with sliding joints to track. Nickname it "El Cheapo" turnout. 😊
Nice!
Thank you! Three-way turnouts are great space savers.😁
Crazy !
Cheers!
Why use rail joiner on point rail? It's flexible enough to leave as solid rail all the way. I love the look of hand laid rail and turnouts. Very ,very nice job.
Good point Bob! I just felt the points were a little short and since the drawing indicated "hinge" I went with the hinge. But yes, I think you could use solid rail as well, thus eliminating any further resistance due to the "floating" rail connector. Cheers.
The turnouts on full-size, mostly on the main line, have the points welded to the closure rails because most points for turnouts of #16 and above will be 22 ft, 30 ft, 39 ft, or longer. The frogs of #24 and above turnouts for mainline speed turnouts for passing tracks and junctions will be movable point and no guard rails on the field stock rail. A #16 lead is 131' 4" and a #20 lead is 151' 11 1/2". The turnout lead is the distance from the point of switch (PS) to the actual point of frog (PF). The actual point of frog is where the point metal is 6 inches across or thick and is 1/2 of the frog number in inches from where the theoretical gauge lines of the frog cross. Any metal in a frog less than 1/2 inch wide would be damaged very quickly under traffic if it was actually there. I think the lead of a #30 would be somewhere around 200 ft and these would be used where traffic is 60 to 79 mph or higher in the NEC on Amtrak.
Most model railroad mainline turnouts are #6 or #8 while the minimum prototype turnout is a #10 which has a maximum TO speed of 15 mph.
Boomer, all my turnouts are done on Fastracks fixtures and am very happy with my results. You mentioned something I had never heard before can you show us or explain how you use brass rod on the points of the turnout. Thanks!
Here is the tutorial where I demo the brass pin on the points. The "Time Stamp" is below the video in the description below it: czcams.com/video/wuy0xyApOdg/video.html
Boomer, you out did yourself on the three way turnout. I’m an n scaler and I use the fast tracks jig. Yes it does make it a little easier but when I watch you build them, and I wish I saved the money on it and build them your way. I really enjoy watching you build your rr
Sorry about that I hit the send button by mistake. I do enjoy watching you build your layout. You are very careful but you know what your doing. I always pick up tips from you and it makes building my layout more fun. Look forward to your next video stay safe and happy railroading. Otto
There is something very satisfying when we build a turnout regardless of the method. Even more so when a train tracks smoothly through it. Thank You for commenting! Cheers.
Jaw drops to the floor..
I'm surprised they actually work as well . . . lol.
Good day I enjoy your posts a lot could you please give me the clover house tie number what you use to build your points thank you and keep up the great job you taught me a lot and hoping to learn a lot more.
I never use "clover house." It's all scratched. So I don't ho the answer to your question. Sorry.
@@boomerdiorama what product go you use
I have a Peco medium 3way they look good but having it hand thrown , I get confused if it's thrown the way I want it. DUH!! They do save space.
Yes. I hear you on that one. I will probably link mine up to "Rapido" switch stands with indicators on them. Cheers.
Thanks for sharing. Did you use weathered rail? Or did you paint it? You have helped me make a better turnout. Thank you. Mine or N scale. But they are 100% better now. Redoing my past turnouts. Thanks.
Yes. I happened to have several bundles of "weathered" rail from past projects. The weathered rail is a little more work to prep for solder but they look good and paint easier. I would recommend un-weathered stock if you plan to build turnouts, especially in "N" scale. The "weathered" oxidization resists a good solder and in fact introduces a "cold' solder. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama l have clean rail. ME Code 55. I also atlas code 55 from flex track. I'm getting beautiful turnouts from them.
@@Vman7757 I just built one from code 55 as well. They do look good.
@@boomerdiorama Nice.
Say Uncle Boomer, do you distress the the styrene ties with your razor saw technique? or do you just paint them and call it a day? Thanks again really appreciate ya!
Yes. I do distress the styrene ties with the razor saw. Distressing the ties not only enhances the look (when panted and pin washed), but also increases the adhesion factor when you CA them to the nickel rail. Anytime you use CA (super-glue), it is always a good idea to score both surfaces because CA is a "mechanical" bond. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama good point ! I've always been aware certain adhesives work better on specific materials. CA usually works well enough to bond small details, even without scraping off paint... but finding I constantly have to repair falling "pipes" off my refinery columns (scratchbuilt around inverted glass test tubes). Always abrasively distress everything glossy & non-porous, before using any glue. The only time you want a perfectly polished & smooth glossy surface is your railheads, or when applying decals.
Boomer, Hope you are doing well. Please, I would like to know what is a good soldering iron (wattage) for the "Sweet" solder method ? I Will use code 100 rail. Thanks.
Just a cheap pencil style soldering iron will do. Just make sure it is at least 30-40 watts for heat. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you Very much. Cheers.
@@Gesampa A Sure thing! Cheers.
Hello Boomer, my wife and I really love watching your Channel.
Building those turnouts look very detailed to the point my wife said "he should make and sell those".
Anyways if you like small compact layouts please check out ours at M&M Model Railways
Thank You Pastor Nicodemus. Pass my respect onto your wife and family. Unfortunately, there is no real economic sense to sell these at my age and stage of career. I prefer to share what I can and enjoy the hobby like everyone else. God Bless You! Cheers ~ Boomer.
I fully admire the work and determination that goes into building hand laid track..
But for me, it's just far too much work 😣😣😣😣😣
That's O.K. I understand. I used to really like the older "Shinohara" (commercial) turnouts back in the day. Almost every option and size was available then. Cheers.
I agree. When i had more free time & nowhere to go or be, I started to scratchbuild everything. Now that people have seen my value, I am too busy helping & working, that I have little spare time to enjoy the hobby to the fullest. Remember, we all have a finite number of hours on this planet, & no amount of money changes that !
@@TheTwabster I agree with what you say. On the other hand, if one has sufficient income at reduced hours, more time is available for modelling. For me , I also dumped all the "other" hobbies I had in order to focus on the model railroad. This made a huge difference in terms of time management. Time does seem to fly-by fast the older one gets though for sure. Cheers.
Your welcome Boomer.
Cheers.