10 TIPS for laying model railroad flex track like a PRO!
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
- Hello friends and modelers! In this video I share with you 10 tips for laying flex track that will prevent derailments, save you money and leave your track looking like a master modeler has laid the track.
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If you want to see the next video in this series, follow the link to my tips on ballasting video - czcams.com/video/iqLUerGfG1U/video.html
Thanks again Andy for another great video!
Great modeling tips.
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks again Andy, for another great track video.
Back in the 70s there were tips in the model railroad magazines, about Laying flex track, but your lecture here is better than any that I've ever seen, regarding lane flex track.
Years ago I did this but no one had mentioned about the need for a really fine mist spray for adhesive.
You have a lot of good extra tips as well.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the info!
I was trying to figure out how you lay straight tracks as straight as possible on a layout. I'm glad I found this video. Tip #9 will certainly come in handy when I start building a layout. 👉 05:43 Those 3 foot flex tracks were very difficult to keep straight while laying them on a layout. 🥴 I'm really glad I found this video. 👏
Thanks for watching! And I'm glad I could help! If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask!
Thanks for the Bonus tip on humidifier i never thught about that and i live in Western Sydney Australia where it can get up to 40 Celsius in Summer
A very experienced modeler said to stagger the joints of the left rail verses the right rail when using flex track on curves. This worked very well to eliminate gauge problems. He also recommended sodering all joiner connections.
I've built two significant railroads in the past two decades and can vouch that these are all great tips. Thank you for sharing with the hobby.
I'm glad I live in a desert. It saves a lot of problems.
No need for a dehumidifier!!!
Except our monsoon season!
Love the track-laying tips. Good sound advice. Thank you for the shout - out Andy! Cheers ~ Boomer.
Thanks Boomer!!! And no worries about the Shout Out!
@@AndyDorsch Have fun working on the "Hawaii" tan Andy. 😁
Hi mate I like the tip about soldering the curve joints of flex track but what about allowing for expanding due to weather conditions etc I like the idea of soldering the curves but I’ve also seen you should leave a gap between each joint to allow for movement
Awesome tips. Thanks
These are good tips. I would highly recommend PVA (Elmers) glue instead of LocTite. In the event of a need to move/adjust the track, a little water and about 10 minutes softens the glue and allows you to readjust switches and track. (Ask me how I know about this!) Thanks for sharing!
Indeed - I found a new Olfa 18mm snap off blade carefully run under the ties will lift track and turnouts from PVA pretty easily without needing to soften or dampen the glue (although I havent used the damping technique you describe for small adjustment). Scrape and sand the surface down (you can sand into a cork surface without problems) and you can re-lay the same (or new) track.
I've lifted multiple turnouts like this and re-layed without damaging the turnout or the cork bed
There's a great looking workbench at the end!
Fantastic tips! These will undoubtedly come in handy as I start to build my layout over the next few months. Thank you so much for sharing! 😊
Great tips. Been listening to the podcast lately and I love it.
Great tips. We are about to lay a lot of flex track and this was very helpful.
Great video Andy!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you, Andy!... great content..
Great tips mate thank you i never thought about a dehumidifier before and my layout is in the loft no heating I'm gonna get me one of those. Thanks Andy.
Pretty interesting ! Especially the ruined ties and the side rail plates.
Thanks, those are good ideas.
thanks for sharing
Great tips and video! Subbed.
A dehumidifier is a good tip, I have one and in the summer it is very helpful.
It really is!
Great tips!! Will be a great help as I build my layout in the coming months. Thank you!
Good Luck with the layout build!
Great set of tips for trackwork, Andy! I'd add one more - chamfer the inside rail ends so that a wheel cannot find a square edge to ride up on. This is especially useful with joints made on curves.
I have never thought of that. What do you use to add the chamfer??
@@AndyDorsch I use a mill file. If you chamfer the foot of the rail on the sides as well, then rail joiners tend to slide on a little easier. A friend recommends a "track use only" mill file so that it remains sharp.
Great tips good video.
thanks for the tips
No problem!
Some great tips , going to subscribe your channel
Good video. Great tips! 👍
Thanks for watching!
Tip #1 - my track had more waves in it than the ocean. I went at the cork with a block and 40 grit paper, 1000% better! Not perfect, but good enough for the girls I go with!!! Thank You!
TY.
i have a yard stick made out of alum, fits perfectly between the rails. another one fits perfectly for track spacing. rail to rail for yards. tie to tie for mainlines.
Thanks. I can use these tips.
Great!
happy new year -basic question -if i don't want to make a professional layout (landscape, cities, bridges etc), just track to run trains, what option would you recommend as trackbed except cork? thank you
Great Video! Question I saw a recommendation that you paint the cork roadbed same colour as your ballast before ballasting. Will paint affect the cork roadbed later on? Your thoughts.
Great video. Awesome. New Sub
Thanks for the sub!
Why go to rhe trouble of cork, why not use ez track or Kato untrack? I'm a newb so, sorry if it's a daft question.
Very nicely explained btw, I like your calm and to the point style. You make this all sound accessible and not overly intimidating.
The only tip I didn't follow was soldering the wire on the bottom. Might do that as I expand. Thanks!
Glad it helped
Hi Andy, beginning at time point 5:24 in your video, you are showing two different styles of track. The track on the left side has incredibly detailed wood grain on the track ties, while the track on the right has barely any wood grain detail at all. I really like the look of the more highly detailed track on the left. Could you please reveal the brand and rail code of that track on the left. I am currently planning my first HO scale railroad and want to make the right choice for the bulk purchase of flex track that I'll need. Thanks, and great video deserving of many thumbs up!
I use Code 70 microengineering.
Ah my bad I’d commented before I’d got to the end of your vid
Great tips Andy. Tip #5 on track alignment references using PC Board ties to attach the rail to and then glue down. It appears you are soldering the rail to the PC Board. If this can be soldered, it must be conductive, so how do you keep from shorting across the rails? I have an alignment problem I am trying to fix and this seems like a great solution- except I can't figure out the shorting issue.
The PCB ties have a thin layer of copper on top the resin base. Use a needle file to wear away a strip of the copper, usually in the center of the tie. Verify there's no short across with an ammeter (or other test tool). Easy to do.
on the branch line by my they have some ties in a very stuck together and I looks like they don't really mean 10 the track well enough
When is it appropriate to nail or spike flextrack as opposed to using glue or caulk? I've had good luck with caulk but if I spike then ballast I'm thinking that might hold it down nicely, too.
You can use spikes as an alternative to glue if you are unsure if the track placement it permanent. It's much easier to pull up a nail then chisel glue or caulk. Also if curves are being stubborn, you can throw a spike in there too!!
I might suggest that for Tip#6, instead of a tube adhesive to use PVA glue instead. It has saved me heartache: simply add a little water and within about 10 minutes with a putty knife and some patience the track can easily be moved. Let it dry and it is hard as nails and clear again!
how do you do with dead spots on the train tracks?
Number 4. All the wires are welded to the web on the railroad. Always thought most people tried to make it realistic as possible.
Great, but what the hell is sarder?
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