Yamaha virago 535 carb clean, (carburetor), re jetting and air/fuel setting. Sultan's virago..
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- čas přidán 11. 01. 2022
- how to clean a carburetor.
how to re jet a carb.
how to clean a carb.
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Nice fix Charlie 👍🏻
Cheers project man
Hi there,just watched this and I'm puzzled as to your methods. A balance check would have pointed to area where you need to look. I've owned and worked on singles twins triples and fours,two stroke and four stroke so have a little experience (I'm only 63 so still learning!). Balancing is to be done at service intervals as per the workshop manual,also for a fine tune which I do,just done my zr7 and running sweet. Once you have the carbs balanced using your preferred method(and they seemed far enough out to do by ear!)use a lazer temperature gun and check the idle balance with the temperature of the headers,both should be running pretty much equal,if not adjust the pilot screw to settle them down, this is done by race techs to confirm all cylinders are firing equal and as long as the rest of the motor ain't hanging it'll run sweet,mines done 69000 and is still smooth. Try it next time and you'll be surprised. Also measure the float height properly a low float will cause fueling issues due to the lack of fuel in the bowl. Hope the info helps in some way,I'm after a xv535 as my seat height is a little much now, hopefully I'll find a nice one.
Hi Derrick, thanks mate. It's a old vid so I'm unsure what I did in it. I would normally balance carbs using my carb tuner to compare suction in both cylinders. That bike ran beautifully in the end which was great. The new owner had it a long time and stayed in contact.
Thanks mate
Sounds & looks much better ! Hope you feel better. Working on a major pain myself & can't find parts .got a led taillights that are sealed units with bulbs out & same with headlights in the same condition 😞 no parts
I hate when that happens. You can keep searching and wait or fit a similar part
Hi, I know it's an old video, and you've probably sussed it by now, but I've read all the comments and it needs pointing out... When you had the jet block out, there are two rubber bungs at one end, the pilot jet is behind the small bung... Bungs have flat side so they an both fit in close-together-holes... I found getting needle valve/float back in, really awkward so put very small smear of vaseline on needle's side to hold in hole, (really small amount), while sliding float in... Vaseline is petroleum jelly and just dissolves immediately when in petrol... I've fitted Jadus induction kit from Sweden and bike does have more go, with louder induction 'roar'... Had to fit #37.5 pilot jets to greatly reduce backfire on overrun.. Mixture set at 2 turns out.. 👍
Funny enough I've got this bike back at the moment. I slid the needle valve in first and held it with a small flat head then slid the float through the slit in the top.
I was unaware at first that there was a jet under the bung but then worked it out.
These bungs have now gone rock solid because of the e10 fuel so I may have to find new ones.
Thanks for watching
Morning mate, bloody lovely to here her tic over... Lol tc mate
I'm working on it today. The tank is shocking with rust so have got that cleaned. I think it will run beautifully today or tomorrow.
When does he start the cleaning
Check the diagrams in the top of the carbs they get holes in or fall apart
Will do Steve although I believe they are new. I'll check just incase though.
Once we fine tuned his carbs and balanced them the bike ran great
That spitting is interesting as my monster 600 does it too, I wonder if it’s a V Twin thing
Possibly, I think I found the fault today and it was pretty shocking. Will come up soon in one of the next vids
Great video as always! Your pilot mixture is a little too lean on the pilot. It's that dreaded lean sneeze again aha. Hope you sort it soon bud;
Its not the pilot screw on this occasion. But it is lean.
Both bikes should be running beautifully soon.
Cheers Jack
Had that with a kawasaki en500 vulcan turned out tp be worn emulsion tube problems.
I've heard about that. They can't be replaced either can they?
My bike is even worse which of coming up lol.
How do you close the fuel tube, before opening the carburator, there is no fuel switch at the tank.
I was wondering, I also want to work on the carburator. Thanks!
It's a suction pump I believe. It won't pump fuel with the engine off.
Thank you so much! 👍🏻💯@@motorcyclerescuer
I just succeeded to change to gaskets of the float chamber, thanks for the video! @motorcyclerescuer
That's brilliant. Good job mate. It's a nice feeling when a service works right.
True! Especialy when you repair it yourself! thanks!@@motorcyclerescuer
Dont adjust the idle at the trottle, you should have a few millimeters lose trottle cable, you have a adjustment screw down at the carbs.
Take the carbs of and clean them.
The idle jets and the emulsion tubes clogs up fast.
Then adjust the throttle opening to the same in both carbs.
These carbs didn't have an adjustment in the carbs for some reason, but you are right that you shouldn't adjust at the cable.
Thanks for watching
I’m really interested in the video where you cover the popping sound (blowback?) from this video. but I can’t find it in your videos.. got a link maybe?
Hi mate, I'm not sure what you mean? I was working on 2 of these bikes at the same time so have a few vids.
These bikes were known for popping and the manufacturer put the emissions control on to minimise that, but when that system fails over time then the popping comes back. I generally remove them systems anyway and accept the popping. My harley does it big time.
@4:50 where you started the engine you talked about spitting. And I’m really curious in what video you tried to address that. I have a 84 virago that I now have running again, rich rear and lean front. But when warm it starts spitting on me, front and rear.
They always did this spit even from factory. They recirculated the exhaust gases back into the chamber to help with this but you hear it on always all 535s. To stop it you would need to have a working recirculation system. But most people just live with the spitting.
My Virago does that spitting/afterfire too, but only while warming up. When warmed up it doesn't spit anymore, but mine idles really high when warm, that's why I'm here lol
Can you not adjust the idle down a touch?
@@motorcyclerescuer Truth is mate I'm a dumbass gen z-er so I have zero knowledge of carbs at all, that's why I came to check out this video! The part where you have holes to turn the adjustment screw is blocked off for me though so IDK what's up with that. I'll try to see if it's a plug that I can pop out or something. I'll definitely try to adjust it though I'm a bit scared of messing it up more haha
Thanks for the video explaining it!
Hi, no that's not an area that needs touching. Under your carbs you should have a long piece of metal attaching the 2 carbs together, in this piece of metal there should be a screw. This screw should increase or decrease the idle.
I think I've got another video showing this. I'll try find it
@@motorcyclerescuer Oh I think I see what you mean! On mine the screw even has like an outside part around it, kinda like a twist knob or dial that you can turn. At least, that's what it looks like. The screw itself is facing downwards and slightly outwards, and I think I can only see it on the side where the exhausts are. On the left side / kickstand side I don't see one. Is it right that there is only one of these?
Yes thats exactly the knob. Turn it a touch when the engines warm and that will adjust the idle.
Do you know how to check the reed valve and air cut valve that's under the left side cover? Thanks 👍
Hi Carl, they were emissions control items and the UK bikes didn't have that. However many came into the UK with them on.
I take them away mate, I get rid of it all and blank the outputs at the engine. The bike runs better like this in my opinion.
Hope this helps mate.
Yeah I see yours @9:05 minutes looks just like my US model. Mine doesn't have the pilot circuit or heat circuit connectors on it either. Do you have a video of how you did away with it? Now that would be interesting! I can't find one video showing how to check them and it's not in my manuals.. when I guess it got flooded it came into the reed valve and soaked my air cleaner inside the case there. Idk it's never happened. But yeah be cool to see how you did it.. thanks mate!!!!
I'm afraid I've no longer got the bikes so can't show any more. Once I've completed them I see them on. The egr delete is straight forward and you can find plenty vids showing how to do that.
These bikes are complex in many ways but can be learnt. Great little bikes when running well.
@@karlh4313 were you able to resolve the issue with the emissions system or take it out?
@@motorcyclerescuer if i remove the emissions system the hoses that goes from the upper part of the carb should be plugged in the chromed tubes that goes to the cylinders?
how far would you travel if you could pick up a bike (keeyway 125 rks e4) and make x2 on what you brought it for. say brought for £400 and could sell it for 800 + with what you could fix in a day with not having to pay for nothing to fix ?
With buys like this you have to consider the funds very carefully.
Take your example of £400 foe the bike.
Plus van hire to collect at £60, plus £40 for an mot and that's £100 on top if nothing was needed.
However its very rare that nothing is needed, tyres are expensive, chains and sprockets are too.
The truth is that you would probably spnd £650 on that bike and sell it for £750 after working on it for 2 or 3 weeks.
*bought
Hi, first off I'm not a biker, my neighbour passed and left his 1978 Yamaha (he bought it new), I think its a DOHC 750 letters have faded sitting on his driveway. I don't think it has run for at least 15yrs, should she scrap it or is it worth saving?
Hi, I think its probably a yamaha xs 750. Running in good condition they currently fetch around £2500. Depending on the condition of yours and how much paperwork it has it could be worth a few hundred.
Your best bet may be taking some pics and making a ebay listing and seeing what someone is willing to offer.
If it was in or near London I could take a look at it to give you more of an idea?
@@motorcyclerescuer Thanks for the quick reply, Up in Glasgow but thanks for your tips.
OK very far lol.
Yes take some pics as the bike is and advertise honestly on ebay and let people bid away.
I would expect around £500 give or take a little.
Good luck with it
Interesting carbs never seen that type before either🙄
Yeh really interested. The bottom of the slide needle is closed off.
In a way they are simple aswell as you don't need to remove them to clean them.
I will be doing my own bike very soon which will be interesting.
@@motorcyclerescuer that's really handy not having to remove them ,spent about a half hour today wrestling with a zzr 600 airbox lol
I know I've had the same issue in the past. The thundercat ones are hard to do aswell.
@@motorcyclerescuer Yamahats off to the person that invented those 535 carbs😊(joke)
They have exactly the same carbs on yamaha vmax's, but you can't take float bowls off as 4 carbs sit side by side. Syncing is still easy thou 👍
what's the difference between the two bikes? I noticed that one has small pipes going around the base of the cylinders and one does not, is it just different model years? what are those small pipes for? I'm asking because I have a 535 but I don't have those small pipes
Hi Dusk, great question.
Do one is an 88 model and one a 93. The 88 model has only 1 fuel tank and none of the emissions control tubes that your talking about.
The second has 2 fuel tanks and the emissions tubes.
Basically these tubes take exhaust gases and put them back into the intake. These bikes run a touch better with a set of working emissions tubes and diaphragm although it's also OK to take them off and blank engine ports.
Blanked of engines may splutter a little more but these engines just kinda did that.
I hope this answers your question a touch mate.
Charlie
@@motorcyclerescuer whilst yes this has answered some questions, it's led me to ask why mine doesn't have any of those emissions tubes, mine is a 95 model and I have the 2 fuel tanks, although when I first saw those pipes I initially thought they were extra oil pipes so I'm glad they're not as I was worried I was missing out lol
Its very common that they were taken off. Emission worries had started taking place and people know that they would get a little extra power if they took them off. That's one reason.
The second reason is that after some years the tubes and the pump that it all attaches to would stop working. The bikes ran terribly like this. It was cheaper and easier to just take it all of and get a slightly more powerful bike then it was to buy a new pump etc.
@@motorcyclerescuer Man, thanks for the explanation, because I have a 535 from 1990, and I was like : "Wtf, there is nothing in my left chromed thingy, where do all these pipes come from, is my bike missing something?"
No not necessarily. It would have had the emissions control stuff on but its ok that its been removed as long as its done properly.
Can i ask where you are based? I am thinking of buying a virago as my first bike so if something goes wrong I'd like to seek your help!!!
I'm islington london mate
i wanna what is TLC problem tell me
Tlc problem? I'm not sure what you ate asking?
Got another question for my 95 Yamaha Virago 535SG. For the main jet sizes the manuals say 137.5 front cylinder 135 rear cylinder. But online Yamaha diagrams it shows the 135 in the front carb and 137.5 in rear carb where throttle lever is. So why do the manuals say front cylinder 137.5, rear cylinder 135? Isn't the front cylinder behind the front tire and the rear by the back seat? I have someone telling me the rear is the front and the front is the rear, I know (from rear to front of bike) cylinder numbering is 1-2 which I thought was firing order idk. But I also see that in the book it says to take the "front carb" enrichment diaphragm off and that's before you split carb. So I'd think that the front carb goes to front cylinder and rear carb (where gas goes in first) is going to rear cylinder, right?? I'm just so confused 🤔
So interestingly manufacturers went through a era of adding different jetting to carbs because of where they are positioned. For example some inline 4s had the inner 2 pistons higher jetted and the outer 2 lower. Manufacturers felt that this was because the inner part of the engine ran hotter.
Common practice now days is just to put the same jets into all carbs. So I wouldn't worry at all about your cylinders and I would run a 137.5 in both carbs.
I've done this with every virago I've had and never had an issue.
And to really answer your question....... The 137.5 jet would be in the rear cylinder nearer your seat as this is the one that would run slightly hotter at times. So if you wanted to stick to your original jetting it would be 135 in the front as it gets the air flow and runs cooler.
Hope this helps
@@motorcyclerescuer thanks
@@motorcyclerescuer did you have to put a different needle in for the diaphragm as one is for the front and rear carb and have different part numbers? I had one person say go with the manual with the 137.5 in front and one said it's maybe bc its richer at the front as the cylinder is cooler, denser, so needs more fuel?? Idk but the manuals say 137.5 front cylinder but the parts kit like Keyster etc say front 135 lol and the Yamaha diagrams online show 137 in the rear so I guess I got the parts kits, the diagrams from Yamaha online,and some people saying put in rear against 3 manuals 😂😂😂
No need to change the needle although again it's ok to run the same needle in both. I've rarely changed the needles, I just jet both to the same jetting and balanced the carbs and I've always found the bikes to run well after that.
The bigger jetting is only about temp, it's nothing to do with running. The rear cylinder gets hotter because it's not in direct air flow so a bigger main jet helps keep it cool. More fuel equals cooler.
So you have many options all which will work perfectly well.
Same carb set up in both carbs, i.e same needles and main jets.
Or rear carb bigger main jet.
The spitting might be too lean pilot jet
Its funny you say that because my next vid proves you right however that's on my virago
go ("(en francais
why are you throwing expensive and sensitive carb parts on a dirty concrete floor?? float, float needles, jets, covers.....and, no word about setting the ballance...what do you think the small tube like connectors are fore, at the cylinder intake side of the carbs...??
Them carb parts were to be cleaned, you couldn't dirty them anymore then they already were.
And the carbs came from the bike so wouldn't have needed balancing. You would only balance carbs if you split a set into singles first or if you were putting a set on from another bike.
I've balanced many carbs on my channel using a range of balancing equipment.
they're out of sync mate
Hi Chris, it's an old vid mate. Chances are I balanced them in the next vid or so.
Cheers mate