Thank you so much for this video. I have been screwing around with my carbs as I have fuel leaking out. They are not the easiest to work with when on the bike. This will really help in getting my floats adjusted to a nice starting point. I have searched for hours trying to find relevant info and finally found you. I have subscribed and look forward to watching your bobber build!
*level. I'm not sure this is gospel as I just set mine to that and the bike won't start now. At 14mm the sprung loaded button end is out, in this video the button is closed with the float at the bottom of the circle...and my bike runs there! So I don't know where the guy on 'that' website got the 14mm
@@doricdave7192 well mate sometimes u have to change needle. that spring button can be stuck also. or u have leaking on needles and it overflow causing rich mixture. and here is closed because he press it with bigger pressure than float and fuel
I did this on my back carb and it behaved like it was running on one cylinder so I put it back to let more fuel in and it run fine. I guess all bikes are different. Good video though
I see you have the needle valve hook with the open end facing the cover... Do you think it matters which way it faces? I know some have enclosed hooks in the rebuild kit and another guy told me the 1100's came with a enclosed one. I'm wondering why... And if the hook opening should face the carb body to kinda help keep from moving enough to drop the needle valve. What do you think? Should it be just the way you have it with the opening facing the cover and why? Thanks 👍
I don't think it matters wich way and to be fair it has been some time since I been playing with them carbs know you asked got me thinking lol wish I still had them carbs could of done some test to see if it did matter and if it changed the fuelling if did swap them around. Mmm
@@fuelheadjay8800 lol right it has me thinking 🤔 too. It's not easy putting the float on with the opening facing the other way and hard with the enclosed hook too.. idk
Hi there! Unfortunately I had to remove both floats, because the last owner bent them wrong, so they got stuck in the valve opening. Of course both valves fell out. Cleaned them and adjusted the floats correctly. Now the bike wont start. Could it be to lean now even though its to spec or could the valves have been damaged? Thanks in advance
I did mine again like this and if I set it to the mark it shuts the fuel off and when I let fuel out it still goes past 14mm to like 20mm below if I bend the tang down it lowers the fuel level in the tube even more to like 30mm? I can't get them to 14mm or 13.5-14.5 and they are brand new floats and needle valve assemblies. Please help!! I'm using the Yamaha tool but it has a 6mm tube with plastic tube same size so I made it into a couple sections to make it small enough to fit the drain hose fittings. Could this be my problem? I'm going to buy 3mm tubing but weird all the books say use the ym part of clear viny tube and measure it from the mark on cover.
hi mate could you help me i have the same bike and today i realized its running to lean the exhaust pipes get way to hot and blue to quick and it back fires wen letting of the throttle
Do a full carb clean and make sure valves are set right then make sure carbs floats are set right. Make sure you got no leaks ie spray carb cleaner around carb boots see if engine revs up.
Hey fuel head jay! One of these carburetors of my virago 535 (right) is leaking out with petrol just right at the bottom part. What could the cause be? Thanks for your suggestions!
@@MegaElique EBay listing number 351332214875 Make sure bike is switched off stick sum rags under the carb that leaking . Un screw the 4 screws on the inside of cover you see the black gasket pick it off them put new in or fill the gap with gasket sealer and all round edge off cover out edge off the gasket them screw back on leave for 24 hours so sealer go's off then turn bike on and it fill carbs back up make sure no more leaks
Hey new subscriber here 😀 is there a part 2 showing this fuel level measurements. I really want to see it I've got the Yamaha part the glass tube with the mm on it but I've got to get the tubing to attach to the fittings. So you just mark the tube and see if it's between 13.5-14.5mm below the bowl line on each one and your good right??
@@fuelheadjay8800 OK I think I found the issue my hose/tube for the drain fitting was kinked. This morning the fuel level was right around 20mm below center mark on cover. So I'm guessing the float is not going high enough when it shuts off and I should bend tang up bc it should be 14mm below center mark. Is this correct?? Thanks!!!!!!!! Does it matter how long the tube is??
@@fuelheadjay8800 my book says bending the float upward very slightly to lower the fuel level; bend the tang down to raise the fuel level. If too high to rich to low to lean. So does the book mean to lower the fuel level you bend tang upward, would that mean it would make it go from 20mm to 14mm below center mark or would it make it worse???
@@fuelheadjay8800 Problem with that. The seat removes from the inside out. A brass cap goes in last. The brass cap is punched. Underneath that is the strainer. Just saying can't imagine having to drill the brass cap. Not included in any rebuild kit. But, you may be right. Guess i could tap the hole a bit and put in an allen plug. The problem is the strainer right underneath. Will let you know what happens after i bung it up. lmao... All Balls kit... 2 needle valves also in kit 26 - 10048 have no idea where or if they fit somewhere .. No directions. Checked website. Nada. Thanks i will get back to you. Great channel. Subbed and liked.
Mine were sticking. Found 2 vids on polishing the seats. I used light rubbing compound. Cotton bud plastic stem on cordless drill. Then finished with metal polish. I had the carbs out. The front stuck on me, again, but I had the motorcycle sitting for 2 weeks. I'm thinking to put a switch on the fuel pump to turn it off and let the bike run the bowl level down a bit to drop the float. Guess I could also drain the bowl!
@@fuelheadjay8800 I got one out. The cap is a banjo affair to allow fuel in from the fuel line inlet tube. The inner side of the inlet tube is recessed. The cap has an O-ring above the banjo grove and one can see how deep the cap must go.. The old seat also has an O-ring. That O-ring was rock hard and deteriorated. The new seats in All Balls kit do not fit real snug. Iffy at best but soaking them in brake fluid expanded the O-ring enuff where i will give it a go. The hole is slightly larger than 10mm so the best conclusion i could come to on a new cap is a 7/16 allen plug. The plug must be flush with the top or the rubber inlet boot and clamp cannot sit all the way down. Not much space between the seat hole and intake rim, making fashioning a puller a pain. Underneath the allen plug i will insert a 10mm stainless spring .1 wire and cut to suit depth from bottom of installed allen plug to seat to hold seat down into place.. The hard part will be drilling the 25/64ths hole in the 10mm bore to tap for plug. The plug will probably have to be ground shorter at best. Teflon tape for gas.. to seal plug. After that's done replacing seats will be easy. If the new seats do not seal; the pain is having a go at installing the carbs again. I imagine carefully J B welding the upper rim of the seat as little as possible if necessary. Also the old cap must regulate pressure so the spring may serve in that capacity if cut to length properly. Probably as long as possible without binding the plug when installing the new plug flush with top of seat bore.
After following this procedure, I have a flooding issue. It seems that when I replace the float bowl covers, turn on, the fuel pump won't stop. If I remove the covers, manually hold floats, the fuel pump shuts off. This on both carbs. Any ideas?
@@fuelheadjay8800 Floats are fine. Had my neighbor verify my needle height setting. We did this with covers off and manually held floats closed and slowly opened each till gas flowed. Only slight adjustment from what I had. Put covers on, cranked until engine fired up. This was a weird issue. I don't believe float height adjustment needs to be this accurate. I still believe there was another 'hidden' issue. Weird tho, with covers off, floats held closed, the fuel pump stalls. With covers on, fuel pump runs and runs and runs. This was giving false assessment of the situation. When the motor was idling, the fuel pump would stall, fuel level reached in bowls, and then run again, fuel level drops. I'll need more convincing this was not down to minor float height adjustment. Time will tell.
@@fuelheadjay8800 Just had a thought. My initial problem started when I installed two new float needles that caused fuel to overflow out top of the carbs. I replaced with original needles. The new needles measured about 1mm shorter. Anyway, in case this happened again, I put the drain pipes into plastic bottles and let hang down from the carbs. Every time I would try run the engine, I'd have the bottles hanging. After adjusting the floats as previously mentioned and motor started, I did not have the overflow pipes/bottles fitted. I wonder if when the covers fitted, air was trapped in the bowls preventing the floats from raising due to overflow pipes hanging down 🤔. When pipes removed, the trapped air could escape.
@@petermccool9396 that is strange. but yes if needles are smaller and this setting levels would have to be lower to take up that 1mm short. Good luck chap let us know when u get it working good. some times you just got to tweek and set things up different to others. Interesting knowing some floats are smaller then norm.
@@fuelheadjay8800 hi, ty for your answer. I wish you have a nice week. actually I test valves again. when I made your setup gasoline can not rise enough. as you can see there is 2 pins inside of the carb. little one in the bottom takes the gasoline inside the structure and it needs to rise to de upper yellow screw. which it has the throttle needle. so, i tested again with a piece of transparent pipe, gasoline only rise to the half of the carb. so I just want to look what is going to happen and take down the float arm as much as I can do. off course gasoline came to the top of the carb. and I tried again it is not working :) now there is two ways to fix this I think -; I will find a singe carb kit or I will buy a carb repair kit. i will let you know the results. thanks
Its probably irrelevant now because you changed to single carb, but you adjusted your floats wrong, the fuel level should be 14mm below the mark on the casing, you should check the fuel level first and then adjust the tab up or down accordingly, the floats act totally different to finger pressure when immersed in fuel
yeah, i was searching for that info also and find out it should be between 13.5 and 14.5 mm. I also read somewhere that back carb should be set a bit higher to prevent heating of cylinder but i am not sure about that info tho
@@dadobojanic they should be set the same, and it is actually the opposite the rear cylinder should run leaner than the front on European models should have a different jet size for front and rear, larger at front smaller at rear. The virago is an air cooled engine, more fuel on the rear cylinder would make it run hotter which is not what you want
Thank you so much for this video. I have been screwing around with my carbs as I have fuel leaking out. They are not the easiest to work with when on the bike. This will really help in getting my floats adjusted to a nice starting point. I have searched for hours trying to find relevant info and finally found you. I have subscribed and look forward to watching your bobber build!
Thanks you. Appreciate the guidance 🙏
Hi great Video just done float heights much appreciate the vids Mike
Excellent vid, thx for this demo.
Andy
Fuel lever should be 13.5 to 14.5mm below mark on side covers.its usually set to 14mm
That's right!! With a clear tube connected to the drain plug
*level. I'm not sure this is gospel as I just set mine to that and the bike won't start now. At 14mm the sprung loaded button end is out, in this video the button is closed with the float at the bottom of the circle...and my bike runs there! So I don't know where the guy on 'that' website got the 14mm
@@doricdave7192 its not from website, its from both manuals haynes and clymer
or if u want visually that level is the long tube inside that block behind float
@@doricdave7192 well mate sometimes u have to change needle. that spring button can be stuck also. or u have leaking on needles and it overflow causing rich mixture. and here is closed because he press it with bigger pressure than float and fuel
Great video now I have an idea on what to do 🤣.
I did this on my back carb and it behaved like it was running on one cylinder so I put it back to let more fuel in and it run fine. I guess all bikes are different. Good video though
I see you have the needle valve hook with the open end facing the cover... Do you think it matters which way it faces? I know some have enclosed hooks in the rebuild kit and another guy told me the 1100's came with a enclosed one. I'm wondering why... And if the hook opening should face the carb body to kinda help keep from moving enough to drop the needle valve. What do you think? Should it be just the way you have it with the opening facing the cover and why? Thanks 👍
I don't think it matters wich way and to be fair it has been some time since I been playing with them carbs know you asked got me thinking lol wish I still had them carbs could of done some test to see if it did matter and if it changed the fuelling if did swap them around. Mmm
@@fuelheadjay8800 lol right it has me thinking 🤔 too. It's not easy putting the float on with the opening facing the other way and hard with the enclosed hook too.. idk
I've seen a disassembly vid where it didn't even have a hook and it was a 535 I don't remember what year though but same carb.
Hi there! Unfortunately I had to remove both floats, because the last owner bent them wrong, so they got stuck in the valve opening. Of course both valves fell out. Cleaned them and adjusted the floats correctly. Now the bike wont start. Could it be to lean now even though its to spec or could the valves have been damaged? Thanks in advance
Have you check spark plugs make sure u not fluided and make sure jets are ok and fuel getting into engine and do a valve adjust make sure there ok.
I did mine again like this and if I set it to the mark it shuts the fuel off and when I let fuel out it still goes past 14mm to like 20mm below if I bend the tang down it lowers the fuel level in the tube even more to like 30mm? I can't get them to 14mm or 13.5-14.5 and they are brand new floats and needle valve assemblies. Please help!! I'm using the Yamaha tool but it has a 6mm tube with plastic tube same size so I made it into a couple sections to make it small enough to fit the drain hose fittings. Could this be my problem? I'm going to buy 3mm tubing but weird all the books say use the ym part of clear viny tube and measure it from the mark on cover.
It takes alot off messing around to get it set have u tryed bike out after setting close to 14.5 if not give it ago
Is the bike level and did you crank it over to fill front carb? If not it will read around 20mm
hi mate could you help me i have the same bike and today i realized its running to lean the exhaust pipes get way to hot and blue to quick and it back fires wen letting of the throttle
Do a full carb clean and make sure valves are set right then make sure carbs floats are set right. Make sure you got no leaks ie spray carb cleaner around carb boots see if engine revs up.
Hey fuel head jay! One of these carburetors of my virago 535 (right) is leaking out with petrol just right at the bottom part. What could the cause be? Thanks for your suggestions!
In the cap make sure rubber seal ok if not replace or stick some gasket sealer on then put cap back on leave to dry before filling carbs back up.
@@fuelheadjay8800 Awesome. Thanks bud. I might try that!
@@fuelheadjay8800 by the way, do you have steps/precautions on replacing the gasket?
@@MegaElique
EBay listing number 351332214875
Make sure bike is switched off stick sum rags under the carb that leaking . Un screw the 4 screws on the inside of cover you see the black gasket pick it off them put new in or fill the gap with gasket sealer and all round edge off cover out edge off the gasket them screw back on leave for 24 hours so sealer go's off then turn bike on and it fill carbs back up make sure no more leaks
@@MegaElique make sure u clean well before applying sealer
How to clean the carburetor Yamaha Virago 535
Hey new subscriber here 😀 is there a part 2 showing this fuel level measurements. I really want to see it I've got the Yamaha part the glass tube with the mm on it but I've got to get the tubing to attach to the fittings. So you just mark the tube and see if it's between 13.5-14.5mm below the bowl line on each one and your good right??
Thanks for the video and glad to be here!!!
Yer around that been a bit since playing with the carbs
@@fuelheadjay8800 OK I think I found the issue my hose/tube for the drain fitting was kinked. This morning the fuel level was right around 20mm below center mark on cover. So I'm guessing the float is not going high enough when it shuts off and I should bend tang up bc it should be 14mm below center mark. Is this correct?? Thanks!!!!!!!! Does it matter how long the tube is??
@@fuelheadjay8800 my book says bending the float upward very slightly to lower the fuel level; bend the tang down to raise the fuel level. If too high to rich to low to lean. So does the book mean to lower the fuel level you bend tang upward, would that mean it would make it go from 20mm to 14mm below center mark or would it make it worse???
@@karlh4313 yep it should do
Good vid.. Ever change a float valve seat in one of those Mikunis?
No but think u have to drill them out to fit new. But not sure.
@@fuelheadjay8800 Problem with that. The seat removes from the inside out. A brass cap goes in last. The brass cap is punched. Underneath that is the strainer. Just saying can't imagine having to drill the brass cap. Not included in any rebuild kit. But, you may be right. Guess i could tap the hole a bit and put in an allen plug. The problem is the strainer right underneath. Will let you know what happens after i bung it up. lmao... All Balls kit... 2 needle valves also in kit 26 - 10048 have no idea where or if they fit somewhere .. No directions. Checked website. Nada.
Thanks i will get back to you.
Great channel. Subbed and liked.
Yes chap let's us know how it goes good to know in case I end up doing one lol
Mine were sticking. Found 2 vids on polishing the seats. I used light rubbing compound. Cotton bud plastic stem on cordless drill. Then finished with metal polish. I had the carbs out. The front stuck on me, again, but I had the motorcycle sitting for 2 weeks.
I'm thinking to put a switch on the fuel pump to turn it off and let the bike run the bowl level down a bit to drop the float. Guess I could also drain the bowl!
@@fuelheadjay8800 I got one out. The cap is a banjo affair to allow fuel in from the fuel line inlet tube. The inner side of the inlet tube is recessed. The cap has an O-ring above the banjo grove and one can see how deep the cap must go.. The old seat also has an O-ring. That O-ring was rock hard and deteriorated. The new seats in All Balls kit do not fit real snug. Iffy at best but soaking them in brake fluid expanded the O-ring enuff where i will give it a go. The hole is slightly larger than 10mm so the best conclusion i could come to on a new cap is a 7/16 allen plug. The plug must be flush with the top or the rubber inlet boot and clamp cannot sit all the way down. Not much space between the seat hole and intake rim, making fashioning a puller a pain. Underneath the allen plug i will insert a 10mm stainless spring .1 wire and cut to suit depth from bottom of installed allen plug to seat to hold seat down into place.. The hard part will be drilling the 25/64ths hole in the 10mm bore to tap for plug. The plug will probably have to be ground shorter at best. Teflon tape for gas.. to seal plug. After that's done replacing seats will be easy. If the new seats do not seal; the pain is having a go at installing the carbs again. I imagine carefully J B welding the upper rim of the seat as little as possible if necessary. Also the old cap must regulate pressure so the spring may serve in that capacity if cut to length properly. Probably as long as possible without binding the plug when installing the new plug flush with top of seat bore.
After following this procedure, I have a flooding issue. It seems that when I replace the float bowl covers, turn on, the fuel pump won't stop.
If I remove the covers, manually hold floats, the fuel pump shuts off.
This on both carbs.
Any ideas?
Do you have a hole or split in one.off your floats take floats off and give them a little shake see if you can hear fuel in one.of the floats.
@@fuelheadjay8800 Floats are fine. Had my neighbor verify my needle height setting. We did this with covers off and manually held floats closed and slowly opened each till gas flowed. Only slight adjustment from what I had. Put covers on, cranked until engine fired up.
This was a weird issue. I don't believe float height adjustment needs to be this accurate. I still believe there was another 'hidden' issue.
Weird tho, with covers off, floats held closed, the fuel pump stalls. With covers on, fuel pump runs and runs and runs. This was giving false assessment of the situation.
When the motor was idling, the fuel pump would stall, fuel level reached in bowls, and then run again, fuel level drops.
I'll need more convincing this was not down to minor float height adjustment. Time will tell.
@@fuelheadjay8800 Just had a thought. My initial problem started when I installed two new float needles that caused fuel to overflow out top of the carbs. I replaced with original needles. The new needles measured about 1mm shorter.
Anyway, in case this happened again, I put the drain pipes into plastic bottles and let hang down from the carbs. Every time I would try run the engine, I'd have the bottles hanging.
After adjusting the floats as previously mentioned and motor started, I did not have the overflow pipes/bottles fitted.
I wonder if when the covers fitted, air was trapped in the bowls preventing the floats from raising due to overflow pipes hanging down 🤔. When pipes removed, the trapped air could escape.
@@petermccool9396 that is strange. but yes if needles are smaller and this setting levels would have to be lower to take up that 1mm short. Good luck chap let us know when u get it working good. some times you just got to tweek and set things up different to others. Interesting knowing some floats are smaller then norm.
I'm having this problem now the pumps stays running
I did exact the same setup and my bce doesn't work anymore. thanks. I return all that Ive done and it is still not working.....
U defo done somit wrong
@@fuelheadjay8800 hi,
ty for your answer. I wish you have a nice week.
actually I test valves again. when I made your setup gasoline can not rise enough. as you can see there is 2 pins inside of the carb. little one in the bottom takes the gasoline inside the structure and it needs to rise to de upper yellow screw. which it has the throttle needle.
so, i tested again with a piece of transparent pipe, gasoline only rise to the half of the carb. so I just want to look what is going to happen and take down the float arm as much as I can do. off course gasoline came to the top of the carb. and I tried again it is not working :)
now there is two ways to fix this I think -; I will find a singe carb kit or I will buy a carb repair kit.
i will let you know the results.
thanks
Its probably irrelevant now because you changed to single carb, but you adjusted your floats wrong, the fuel level should be 14mm below the mark on the casing, you should check the fuel level first and then adjust the tab up or down accordingly, the floats act totally different to finger pressure when immersed in fuel
yeah, i was searching for that info also and find out it should be between 13.5 and 14.5 mm. I also read somewhere that back carb should be set a bit higher to prevent heating of cylinder but i am not sure about that info tho
I read some where same but there so many different ways pick one.and see if it works for you I did it the manual way and seem to work.
@@dadobojanic they should be set the same, and it is actually the opposite the rear cylinder should run leaner than the front on European models should have a different jet size for front and rear, larger at front smaller at rear. The virago is an air cooled engine, more fuel on the rear cylinder would make it run hotter which is not what you want
@@timlipscombe5168 The main jet or pilot?
Main jet chap
You do nothing. You only tell where de pointer is, but not adjust it
How to clean the carburetor Yamaha Virago 535
So I don't have vid on how to clean but there's plenty on you tube.
@@fuelheadjay8800 Beautiful thanks for the efforts