Thanks so much for this video! I followed it step by step last night while cleaning my carbs and found it so useful! I've shared it in the Virago Nation group on Facebook too! Thanks again!
For pressured air it's simple matter of going to the site of Ebay/Amazon or Maplins and order a can of compressed air, the handy part is it comes with a straw to reach the awkward areas. Can even be found (if luck on your side) at pound shops.
It has to be emphasised that first (REAR) and second (FRONT) carbs differ (xv535). They have different main jets and jet needles! So one should bear in mind this while while reassmbling carbs.
I just found that out today. The Haynes workshop manual lists the jet and needle sizes. I was also told it really didn't matter if they were switched 🤔
Really helped me out amazingly clear - I have noticed two screw holes on front side of carbs though which Im hoping he shows on video as I havent removed anything- perhaps vents or something
Excellent video really thorough 👍 I’ll thought I’d ask you if you can check the rubber diaphragms without taking the carbs off as I’m having problems with my virago hunting once you try and accelerate. Could be the coils but I’m trying all avenues at the moment
Thanks, it's unlikely to be the coils as they tend to fail under heat rather than exhibit such problems. You can unbolt and remove the caps to view the rubber diaphragms, the risk is pinching them whilst refitting and you really need to be able to stretch them to check for pinholes. You can try and if necessary remove the carbs to refit, I couldn't blame anyone for not wanting to remove and refit them.
Thanks 🙏 for getting back so soon. I appreciate it. It’s only done 5k. I’m sure I’ve got paperwork for new diaphragm so I’ll check. I’ve not had it long. My son says it probably needs the carbs balancing as it starts straight away. Any advice is welcomed so much lol 😊it’s such a lovely bike and it’s getting a 70’s chopper look
@@garyconstant4234 No problem. If it's new to you if go through a full service. Start with the valve clearances, they are the single most neglected service item on any engine, especially since most modern cars use hydraulic valves of some sort and don't need it. It's sadly a forgotten thing but essential for proper running, carb balancing is something that needs doing once you know the valves, plugs, carb cleanliness and mixture are done and set or you're just chasing your tail trying to sort things. Another thing with modern fuels is, sitting around not doing much isn't good for tank or carbs because of all the additives.
Hello again. I’ve had a look at the membranes and they look fine. I did notice the rear HT lead looked a bit loose so I re attached it so it could be that. I’ve not been out on it because of the weather but I’ll keep you posted 👍
@@garyconstant4234 that's positive and a loose HT lead can certainly cause you problems. When you first start and warm up have a (very) quick tap of the downpipes of the exhaust as it starts to warm up, and you'll see if one is warming up quicker than the other. Fingers crossed its that.
Great video. I cleaned out my carburetors my 1990 535 virago started right up ran good for 5 min. I turned it off and the next day tried to start it wouldn’t start. Any ideas on what my problem is?
Say Say Everday I'm assuming it's spinning over as it should, check the plugs for spark, check they're getting fuel to them, (are they wet), make sure the fuel pump is priming the float bowls when you switch the ignition on. If there's a strong fuel smell use no choke as you're probably flooded. How old is the fuel in the tank, it goes stake incredibly quickly nowadays.
I have a shop manual for that bike. The fine details are sketchy. Bought an 535XV last summer. Yesterday finally got to the carbs. Got new bellows. The ones i took out had no O-ring on the needle, but new ones came in rebuild kit. Don't know where they go?
Do you mean a rubber o ring on the needles? There shouldn't be one to my knowledge but there will be a place they belong. Off the top of my head I can't say for certain as it's a while since I stripped a carb from one of them.
Thanks. This was, if I recall part two of the carb strip and clean, if you go into my channel and look at playlists you'll find one titled motorbike mechanics or something like. In there are all the videos I've posted relating to work on motorbikes.
Hi there and greetings all the way from México city. I was wondering of you'd be kind and share the jet sizes you are running in your bike. I know the main ones are 135, found out from the comments on your previous video. But the other two jets, the one by the slider and the one on top. And if it's not much to ask, the sizes on your needles. Hope you can reply, thanks a bunch.
Hi, thanks for the question. Sadly I can't help as this was for a friend and is away now and my own was sold years ago. Hopefully someone else can comment with the sizes but failing that a service manual should provide the stock sizes for you.
@@spidiq8 thank you for the reply friend, I just found out yesterday according to the manual, they are 135 main jet, 70 ,and 170 the one by the slider. I still got one more doubt on the needle jet sizes tho. The manual does not give that much info. I really appreciate your the time. Too bad you don't have your Virago no more. Cheers mate.
Hi there, I cleaned my carbs and it seems than there was a washer by the jet needle assembly, which I can't recall where it came from. Theres the hard plástic one, the one on the groove, and the washer... not sure if it goes in between the one on the groove and the small spring. Hope you can help out, thanks.
A standard flat washer? Or an E clip type. I'd say if it's a flat one it'll be either between the E clip on the needle or between the spring and plastic washer to prevent wear by the spring.
@@spidiq8 thanks for the time friend, been doing a bit of research and there should be an o ring ,or in this case, a flat washer per needle. So Im missing one for my other side, and it seems to go on top of the clip. Wish I could show you the picture...
Just bought a 535 with 9000 miles. Bike has been sitting for months and ticks over roughly so the carbs probably need a good clean. Can you send Gizmo around to give me a hand please as my cat Snowy is more into suspension....
I would and she would have been delighted to assist. Carbs being her specialty. Sadly she's no longer with us. Have a careful check of the carb diaphragms. They tend to suffer more than upright stacks but hopefully a good clean will have it ticking over nicely and you enjoy it.
@@spidiq8 ahh that's sad about the wee cat, you can get attached to the little skitters.....apart from diafram problems are there any other know carb problems. Ticks over ruffly, balanced the carbs as they where out a mile but this made them worse, when shutting the throttle off the revs linger at about 2000 revs then drop, it's not cables or leaky manifolds but nevertheless I'll give them a bloody good cleaning. Great video.
@@Team-fabulous You do indeed get attached, had her from birth and she was lovely. There's really only typical carb problems. Wear. Varnish from fuel deposits etc. Your symptoms do sound like air leaks or holed diaphragms though. Check valve clearances and do a cylinder compression test just to establish they're ok. With the carbs off do a lift test of the slides and see that they reseat gently with obvious vacuum from the tops. If one or both snap closed that's definitely the diaphragm seal at fault there.
I just changed the diaphragms and the new needles seemed shorter. It flooded the bike out and now it won't start. I've put the old needles into the new diaphragms and I'm leaving it overnight. Any idea how long the needles should be? Mine are 35mm
I couldn't say off the top of my head and I don't have the manual to hand. If they're obviously shorter then swapping them should help but if the float bowls are flooding you need to check the needle valves and float heights.
@@spidiq8 the bowls and float needles are fine. The bike was running fine before I changed the diaphragms. I put the new ones in and noticed before hand that the new needles were shorter and not as tapered. There was also a spacer grommet missing so I used one from the old set. Even so the needle was a good 1cm shorter. I think cranking the bike has severely flooded the bike. I've re fitted the old needles in the new diaphragm bodies and re fitted. I'll try it again in the morning. The bike was running OK before. Just was laggy to rev and the diaphragms were torn. Before it slowly crawled to a death it revved much better
@@Ian-ev5tg using the old needles should correct it then. If they were so much shorter you've effectively got wide open throttle with barely any throttle motion, the taper of the needle regulates the flow once you move off idle and turn the throttle.
@@petermccool9396 That's a shame. Manuals and instructions are good but I think watching it being done is always better. If you happen to do It again and could film it please do and upload and if ok with you share the link in here.
very good but you did not remove the mixture / air screw and o ring and washer before using carb cleaner as it will deform the rubber o ring, also they need to be removed to blow out and make sure they are set up right etc 1 to 2 turns out from soft full closed , if you can show every one how to pick the o ring and washer out, i use a very fine wire with a small hooked end to get them out, it can still be a pain, every thing else was well done and it was very nice not to have stupid music blasting out, just well educated talking and naming things correctly with out using words like THINGY / THIS THINK / WHATSIT / WHATEVER THIS IS, very well done thanks eddie,
Brilliant vidio thanks I have a varago 535 done everything to it new coils air filter servise cleand carbs it's 95 with 16 thosand mls up very clean starts up not a bother but the front solider is colder the the back one thanks if you could help diaframes perfect
Is the exhaust pipe noticeably cooler? If so that suggests it's not running properly on the front one. The cylinder (I assume you mean) will run a little cooler as it's in the airflow and the rear obscured and that's why there are different settings for front and rear carbs. Either way you shouldn't be able to place and hold your hand on them.
@@spidiq8 hi side thanks for the reply if I drive it it won't pass 65 mls anhour and when I put my hands on the exsausts the front one is 3 qwaters cooler then the back one but no way will she pass the 65 thanks
@@joepunk3020 Definitely not running right on the front. These aren't fast by any means but 90-95 should be achievable when running right. You need to ideally check compression. Valve clearances. Plug. Coil etc as well as fuelling. Quick easy check is pull the plug and if it's wet the fuel is getting through but not firing and if oily it's rings or stem seals. Valve clearances are a big source of problems on older bikes as they tend to be avoided by previous owners. These thankfully are screw and locknut your and while fiddly are relatively easy.
@@spidiq8 never thaught of the valve clerince iv done everything to it but not the valve il do the front one and see id say you have nails it spid would it stop the bike from doing its right speed it's just the front one thanks alot for the heads up love your vidios it's worth a troy the bike is like new
@@spidiq8 hi my frind done the valves clearing the plug was wet and black cleand it grate spark I turned the crank to the line mark first done the front the were locked and the back one on the same head there ratling bad yoused 0 15 for both thanks onely the front cylinder
I have a pair of black and yellow and brown bullet connectors next to the right fake air filter that aren't connected to anything on my bike... I suppose they are for these carbs.. what do they do?
Honestly, no clue. Electrics are not my strong point beyond checking wires and connections are good. I can only assume it's for a solenoid or similar. Sorry I can't help further.
spidiq8 well shite... can't even find them on the wiring diagram! Thanks for the help on the carbs anyway, I have to clean them bad boys, I'm sputtering burnt fuel all over right now
@@Matt281296 I couldn't either but wondered if it was just my lack of experience and skill with wiring, it's kinda nice to know they are missing from there in a way but obviously not useful. If it helps, I couldn't see anything that looked electrically operated on the carbs, maybe it's a temp sensor? I wish I could tell you what it was. Are you getting unburnt fuel from your exhaust?
spidiq8 yep, just some black splashes out from the exhaust, don't think it's oil as there is absolutely no smoke, also the bike runs beautifully apart from some pops and bangs at deceleration
@@TheDanilovich Is yours a 535 like this one? All carburettors need at least 1 cable attached to the throttle, (modern bikes with efi are slightly different). Some have 2 cables one to open the throttle and one to close it but often a spring is used on the carburettor to close it.
@@TheDanilovich Oh I see. The electric cables are not necessarily on all models. I thought you meant the throttle cable. They typically operate a solenoid on most carburettors although I'm not entirely sure what the purpose on these particular ones is.
Hello i have XV 500 and have 2 brokencarb diaphragms. Anyone knows are the XV 535 vacum pistons diaphragms same as XV 500 because i cant find them anywhere on internet?
@@spidiq8 Thank you for answer. I am driving my XV 500 for 13 y now and parts are big problem. Was thinking to get some bigger motorcycle like Honda Hornet ,but still i like him
Do you have info on where? It was always my understanding that replacement of diaphragms was a specialist job as the slide assembly isn't strippable by the user?
@@spidiq8 $7.99 each from AliExpress - www.aliexpress.com/item/33028284896.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.21247ff3tkc2DN&algo_pvid=db739506-8b80-4297-b281-96f7aad35176&algo_expid=db739506-8b80-4297-b281-96f7aad35176-1&btsid=ec4370ac-b184-4f2a-a016-65c74fc79978&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_8,searchweb201603_60
@@spidiq8 The slide assembly is strippable, just a right PITA. The workshop service manual from Clymer showed the slide assembly exploded diagram. Otherwise, you'd not be able to replace the needle without buying the entire slide assembly.
Thanks so much for this video! I followed it step by step last night while cleaning my carbs and found it so useful! I've shared it in the Virago Nation group on Facebook too! Thanks again!
Thanks for the feedback and the share. That's greatly appreciated and I'm glad it helped you.
Delighted to come across these videos. Very well explained and great advice as I embark upon my bobber xv535 life. You'd have been a good teacher.
Thanks, I hope they're helpful. Sadly I never got to complete the entire bike but hopefully the bits I did will help you.
Explained well and very useful. Definitely saved me some time and grief. Cheers!
Very well realised video, also in very clear spoken English which help us foreigners!
Thank you, I'm glad it was useful to you.
For pressured air it's simple matter of going to the site of Ebay/Amazon or Maplins and order a can of compressed air, the handy part is it comes with a straw to reach the awkward areas. Can even be found (if luck on your side) at pound shops.
Just to add you can get them in shops selling airsoft guns,or model building shops that carry airbrush equipment.
It has to be emphasised that first (REAR) and second (FRONT) carbs differ (xv535). They have different main jets and jet needles! So one should bear in mind this while while reassmbling carbs.
Do you remember the jet sizes and jet needles you're running in your bike? Would help me a lot.
I just found that out today. The Haynes workshop manual lists the jet and needle sizes.
I was also told it really didn't matter if they were switched 🤔
Thx for pointing this out.
can you show us how to check float height ? with the clear tube method ? where do you put the tube and which on is the bleed/drain screw ?
Really helped me out amazingly clear - I have noticed two screw holes on front side of carbs though which Im hoping he shows on video as I havent removed anything- perhaps vents or something
Glad it helped, can you try to explain the ones you're referring to and i'll try to help.
Very helpful videos thx.
Do u have one for tunning/adjusting the cards?
Rhx
Excellent video really thorough 👍 I’ll thought I’d ask you if you can check the rubber diaphragms without taking the carbs off as I’m having problems with my virago hunting once you try and accelerate. Could be the coils but I’m trying all avenues at the moment
Thanks, it's unlikely to be the coils as they tend to fail under heat rather than exhibit such problems.
You can unbolt and remove the caps to view the rubber diaphragms, the risk is pinching them whilst refitting and you really need to be able to stretch them to check for pinholes.
You can try and if necessary remove the carbs to refit, I couldn't blame anyone for not wanting to remove and refit them.
Thanks 🙏 for getting back so soon. I appreciate it. It’s only done 5k. I’m sure I’ve got paperwork for new diaphragm so I’ll check. I’ve not had it long. My son says it probably needs the carbs balancing as it starts straight away. Any advice is welcomed so much lol 😊it’s such a lovely bike and it’s getting a 70’s chopper look
@@garyconstant4234 No problem. If it's new to you if go through a full service. Start with the valve clearances, they are the single most neglected service item on any engine, especially since most modern cars use hydraulic valves of some sort and don't need it. It's sadly a forgotten thing but essential for proper running, carb balancing is something that needs doing once you know the valves, plugs, carb cleanliness and mixture are done and set or you're just chasing your tail trying to sort things.
Another thing with modern fuels is, sitting around not doing much isn't good for tank or carbs because of all the additives.
Hello again. I’ve had a look at the membranes and they look fine. I did notice the rear HT lead looked a bit loose so I re attached it so it could be that. I’ve not been out on it because of the weather but I’ll keep you posted 👍
@@garyconstant4234 that's positive and a loose HT lead can certainly cause you problems.
When you first start and warm up have a (very) quick tap of the downpipes of the exhaust as it starts to warm up, and you'll see if one is warming up quicker than the other.
Fingers crossed its that.
Great video. I cleaned out my carburetors my 1990 535 virago started right up ran good for 5 min. I turned it off and the next day tried to start it wouldn’t start.
Any ideas on what my problem is?
Say Say Everday I'm assuming it's spinning over as it should, check the plugs for spark, check they're getting fuel to them, (are they wet), make sure the fuel pump is priming the float bowls when you switch the ignition on.
If there's a strong fuel smell use no choke as you're probably flooded.
How old is the fuel in the tank, it goes stake incredibly quickly nowadays.
I have a shop manual for that bike. The fine details are sketchy. Bought an 535XV last summer. Yesterday finally got to the carbs. Got new bellows. The ones i took out had no O-ring on the needle, but new ones came in rebuild kit. Don't know where they go?
Do you mean a rubber o ring on the needles? There shouldn't be one to my knowledge but there will be a place they belong. Off the top of my head I can't say for certain as it's a while since I stripped a carb from one of them.
Nice videos but could i ask if you splitting videos as you have here that you add link to second video in your comment section
Thanks. This was, if I recall part two of the carb strip and clean, if you go into my channel and look at playlists you'll find one titled motorbike mechanics or something like. In there are all the videos I've posted relating to work on motorbikes.
Nice,,,clear!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi there and greetings all the way from México city. I was wondering of you'd be kind and share the jet sizes you are running in your bike. I know the main ones are 135, found out from the comments on your previous video. But the other two jets, the one by the slider and the one on top. And if it's not much to ask, the sizes on your needles. Hope you can reply, thanks a bunch.
Hi, thanks for the question.
Sadly I can't help as this was for a friend and is away now and my own was sold years ago. Hopefully someone else can comment with the sizes but failing that a service manual should provide the stock sizes for you.
@@spidiq8 thank you for the reply friend, I just found out yesterday according to the manual, they are 135 main jet, 70 ,and 170 the one by the slider. I still got one more doubt on the needle jet sizes tho. The manual does not give that much info. I really appreciate your the time. Too bad you don't have your Virago no more. Cheers mate.
@@danolopez662 Sorry I couldn't help but glad you got most of them. Hopefully someone will be able to provide the needle sizes for you.
What year bikes do these carbs all fit? Like 1990 to 1997 or so? Like would a 1990 carb work on a 1995? They look the same to me.
As far as i'm aware these were used across a wide year range, my own was a 95 and the carbs were the same as this.
Hi there, I cleaned my carbs and it seems than there was a washer by the jet needle assembly, which I can't recall where it came from. Theres the hard plástic one, the one on the groove, and the washer... not sure if it goes in between the one on the groove and the small spring. Hope you can help out, thanks.
A standard flat washer? Or an E clip type.
I'd say if it's a flat one it'll be either between the E clip on the needle or between the spring and plastic washer to prevent wear by the spring.
@@spidiq8 def... flat washer.
@@danolopez662 If possible compare to the other slide. If not see which is the better fit and go with that.
@@spidiq8 thanks for the time friend, been doing a bit of research and there should be an o ring ,or in this case, a flat washer per needle. So Im missing one for my other side, and it seems to go on top of the clip. Wish I could show you the picture...
@@danolopez662 No problem. I can visualise that and glad you found it. Thanks for letting me know.
Just bought a 535 with 9000 miles. Bike has been sitting for months and ticks over roughly so the carbs probably need a good clean. Can you send Gizmo around to give me a hand please as my cat Snowy is more into suspension....
I would and she would have been delighted to assist. Carbs being her specialty. Sadly she's no longer with us.
Have a careful check of the carb diaphragms. They tend to suffer more than upright stacks but hopefully a good clean will have it ticking over nicely and you enjoy it.
@@spidiq8 ahh that's sad about the wee cat, you can get attached to the little skitters.....apart from diafram problems are there any other know carb problems. Ticks over ruffly, balanced the carbs as they where out a mile but this made them worse, when shutting the throttle off the revs linger at about 2000 revs then drop, it's not cables or leaky manifolds but nevertheless I'll give them a bloody good cleaning.
Great video.
@@Team-fabulous You do indeed get attached, had her from birth and she was lovely.
There's really only typical carb problems. Wear. Varnish from fuel deposits etc.
Your symptoms do sound like air leaks or holed diaphragms though.
Check valve clearances and do a cylinder compression test just to establish they're ok.
With the carbs off do a lift test of the slides and see that they reseat gently with obvious vacuum from the tops. If one or both snap closed that's definitely the diaphragm seal at fault there.
I just changed the diaphragms and the new needles seemed shorter. It flooded the bike out and now it won't start. I've put the old needles into the new diaphragms and I'm leaving it overnight. Any idea how long the needles should be? Mine are 35mm
I couldn't say off the top of my head and I don't have the manual to hand. If they're obviously shorter then swapping them should help but if the float bowls are flooding you need to check the needle valves and float heights.
@@spidiq8 the bowls and float needles are fine. The bike was running fine before I changed the diaphragms. I put the new ones in and noticed before hand that the new needles were shorter and not as tapered. There was also a spacer grommet missing so I used one from the old set. Even so the needle was a good 1cm shorter. I think cranking the bike has severely flooded the bike. I've re fitted the old needles in the new diaphragm bodies and re fitted. I'll try it again in the morning. The bike was running OK before. Just was laggy to rev and the diaphragms were torn. Before it slowly crawled to a death it revved much better
@@Ian-ev5tg using the old needles should correct it then. If they were so much shorter you've effectively got wide open throttle with barely any throttle motion, the taper of the needle regulates the flow once you move off idle and turn the throttle.
With the help of a friend, a bench vise and block of wood, we replaced the diaphragms that came with a rebuild kit.
Good stuff, did you film it by chance, I'm sure there are lots of people who'd find it useful to see?
I wish I had. I usually take pictures, but missed this activity of the rebuild.
@@petermccool9396 That's a shame. Manuals and instructions are good but I think watching it being done is always better.
If you happen to do It again and could film it please do and upload and if ok with you share the link in here.
very good but you did not remove the mixture / air screw and o ring and washer before using carb cleaner as it will deform the rubber o ring, also they need to be removed to blow out and make sure they are set up right etc 1 to 2 turns out from soft full closed , if you can show every one how to pick the o ring and washer out, i use a very fine wire with a small hooked end to get them out, it can still be a pain, every thing else was well done and it was very nice not to have stupid music blasting out, just well educated talking and naming things correctly with out using words like THINGY / THIS THINK / WHATSIT / WHATEVER THIS IS, very well done thanks eddie,
Good and valid points, thanks for your feedback. Likewise I hate videos with 'background' music drowning out anything useful.
Brilliant vidio thanks I have a varago 535 done everything to it new coils air filter servise cleand carbs it's 95 with 16 thosand mls up very clean starts up not a bother but the front solider is colder the the back one thanks if you could help diaframes perfect
Is the exhaust pipe noticeably cooler? If so that suggests it's not running properly on the front one. The cylinder (I assume you mean) will run a little cooler as it's in the airflow and the rear obscured and that's why there are different settings for front and rear carbs.
Either way you shouldn't be able to place and hold your hand on them.
@@spidiq8 hi side thanks for the reply if I drive it it won't pass 65 mls anhour and when I put my hands on the exsausts the front one is 3 qwaters cooler then the back one but no way will she pass the 65 thanks
@@joepunk3020 Definitely not running right on the front.
These aren't fast by any means but 90-95 should be achievable when running right.
You need to ideally check compression. Valve clearances. Plug. Coil etc as well as fuelling.
Quick easy check is pull the plug and if it's wet the fuel is getting through but not firing and if oily it's rings or stem seals.
Valve clearances are a big source of problems on older bikes as they tend to be avoided by previous owners. These thankfully are screw and locknut your and while fiddly are relatively easy.
@@spidiq8 never thaught of the valve clerince iv done everything to it but not the valve il do the front one and see id say you have nails it spid would it stop the bike from doing its right speed it's just the front one thanks alot for the heads up love your vidios it's worth a troy the bike is like new
@@spidiq8 hi my frind done the valves clearing the plug was wet and black cleand it grate spark I turned the crank to the line mark first done the front the were locked and the back one on the same head there ratling bad yoused 0 15 for both thanks onely the front cylinder
I have a pair of black and yellow and brown bullet connectors next to the right fake air filter that aren't connected to anything on my bike... I suppose they are for these carbs.. what do they do?
Honestly, no clue.
Electrics are not my strong point beyond checking wires and connections are good.
I can only assume it's for a solenoid or similar.
Sorry I can't help further.
spidiq8 well shite... can't even find them on the wiring diagram!
Thanks for the help on the carbs anyway, I have to clean them bad boys, I'm sputtering burnt fuel all over right now
spidiq8 oh by the way, how do you synchronize them once they are clean?
@@Matt281296 I couldn't either but wondered if it was just my lack of experience and skill with wiring, it's kinda nice to know they are missing from there in a way but obviously not useful.
If it helps, I couldn't see anything that looked electrically operated on the carbs, maybe it's a temp sensor?
I wish I could tell you what it was.
Are you getting unburnt fuel from your exhaust?
spidiq8 yep, just some black splashes out from the exhaust, don't think it's oil as there is absolutely no smoke, also the bike runs beautifully apart from some pops and bangs at deceleration
Hello, I would like to know the cable that the carburetor has that works. Thank you
I'm not sure what you mean, are you wanting a part number or something else?
@@spidiq8 I want to know what the cable that carries the carburetor is for, because my carburettors don't have it.
@@TheDanilovich Is yours a 535 like this one?
All carburettors need at least 1 cable attached to the throttle, (modern bikes with efi are slightly different). Some have 2 cables one to open the throttle and one to close it but often a spring is used on the carburettor to close it.
@@spidiq8 I have a XV 535 dx of 2001, the throttle does not have electric cables and I do not know if it Is obligatory to have them.
@@TheDanilovich Oh I see. The electric cables are not necessarily on all models. I thought you meant the throttle cable.
They typically operate a solenoid on most carburettors although I'm not entirely sure what the purpose on these particular ones is.
Hello i have XV 500 and have 2 brokencarb diaphragms. Anyone knows are the XV 535 vacum pistons diaphragms same as XV 500 because i cant find them anywhere on internet?
Unfortunately I don't know but imagine they'd likely be as the engine size is so close. Hopefully someone will know.
@@spidiq8 Thank you for answer. I am driving my XV 500 for 13 y now and parts are big problem. Was thinking to get some bigger motorcycle like Honda Hornet ,but still i like him
Solider I ment 😂😂
You CAN buy the diaphrams on their own btw.
Do you have info on where?
It was always my understanding that replacement of diaphragms was a specialist job as the slide assembly isn't strippable by the user?
@@spidiq8 $7.99 each from AliExpress - www.aliexpress.com/item/33028284896.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.21247ff3tkc2DN&algo_pvid=db739506-8b80-4297-b281-96f7aad35176&algo_expid=db739506-8b80-4297-b281-96f7aad35176-1&btsid=ec4370ac-b184-4f2a-a016-65c74fc79978&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_8,searchweb201603_60
@@spidiq8 The slide assembly is strippable, just a right PITA. The workshop service manual from Clymer showed the slide assembly exploded diagram. Otherwise, you'd not be able to replace the needle without buying the entire slide assembly.