VIRAGO 535 DETAILED CARBURETTOR STRIPPING TUTORIAL 87-03 | How to disassemble Mikuni carbs XV 535 #3
Vložit
- čas přidán 13. 03. 2021
- Here is the link for the Lifan carbs I bought
www.aliexpress.com/item/40003...
Today's video is about fully stripping the carburettors on my XV 535 project bike. I have run into some problems during the process if you want to find out how I solved them.... You know what to do 😁😉👍
#motorcycleproject #bikebuild #viragotutorial
If you'd like to support me with a small donation, you can do it through this link..
paypal.me/lorantgangel1?local...
If you buy any of these products using these links, it will not cost you anymore, but will help the channel out by earning a little commission. Really appreciate it if you do. Thank you
Tools I recommend for beginner/ DIY mechanics
Sealey 4pc JIS screwdriver set ebay.us/IPnnTk
Cheap internal bearing puller kit ebay.us/dqsgMf
Wera 9 piece Long Allen keys ebay.us/jQqlHb
Wera 9 piece Extra long STAINLESS steel allen key set ebay.us/k61h1m
Wera 9 piece Short Allen keys the one in the video ebay.us/GSp19W
Wera 9 Piece Short BALL END Allen keys ebay.us/YwEiE4
Wera 6 Piece Screwdriver lasertip set ebay.us/C1stL5
Clarke CDM35C Multimeter in MachineMart bit.ly/2uNOKA8
All music and sound effect I use in my videos are downloaded from the FREE CZcams Audio Library and requires no attribution.
The backgrounds I use in my videos are all downloaded from pexels.com all pictures there, are free to use in any projects....check them out (Not sponsored). - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This is BY FAR, the BEST video about the Virago 535 carburetors. 👍👍👍
Believe me, I have watched a LOT of them!🤣
I am really happy that I found out your channel, a few weeks ago I bought a 95 Virago 535 that has been sitting for years.
It is in original spec and it rides ok, it has 16.000 km, but as it backfires a little bit when I release the throttle.
So I am renewing some parts, as carbs, plugs, the fuel petcock, .
Your videos are very clear and very helpful.
They are not boring or too long.
Keep it up!👍😎
Wow mate thank you very much for your kind words.. I'm glad we share the same passion, welcome to my channel, and wish you all the best for your "baby" 😉👍👍
Ps: turn the pilot screws out a 1/4 turn to give a bit more fuel during deceleration with throttle shut to help with the popping 😉
@@MidlandCruiser great tip, I will do that! 👍👍👍
@@MidlandCruiser and if I may ask, could you shows how to adjust the float level in the carbs? Thanks!👍
True that!!! On how detailed this video is I'm still waiting for the rebuild 👊
@@MidlandCruiser so not how the book says 2 to 2&1/2 turns out?
Thanks, man. I own a XV535 for a year and now i am getting deep into it, mechanically, fixing little things, improving, etc. Just found your project, gonna get tunned on it.
Greetings from Brazil.
Nice winds you all!
Thank you and welcome to my channel... I'm sure you will pick up some useful things here...😉
Great content! Thank you for this kind of videos!
The best video! Thank you!
Amazing and helpful video. Thanks for the content mate.
You're very welcome 😉👍
Masterclass. I would not be able to remember what goes where when it comes to reassemble the carburettor. Respect.
😁Thank you... To be honest there is really only 1 way to put it back together, can't really mess it up but always advisable to take photos or videos if not sure.. And of course there are always the factory drawings to help you 😉🔧
Well thanks a lot - my Mrs came in as you were trying to remove those jis screws. With all that grunting she thought I was watching something dirty LOL
🤣🤣good one...them bolts were really tight though
Very interesting iv had lots of problems with my carb! These videos come in handy mate ")
Glad you like them! More on the way
Thank you so much for the channel. I own a 93 1100, and did all the restoration job watching you. And now, got a 99 535 for my wife, and just did the carbs maintrenance last weekend. The air mixture screw was stuck too, not sure how to take it out yet.
Greetings from Brazil.
You are very welcome...😉 the mixture screw is a bitch on the 535 and most of them get stuck in there. I bought a new set of Lifan carburettors, we'll see how good or bad they are once I get to fit them..all the best
@Midland Cruiser Got another question lol if you would of gotten the pilot screw out and let's say you don't have a ultrasonic cleaner could you clean the pilot screw area with a brass spiral brush to clean up the threads and inside good or do can you only use the nylon brushes? It's hard to determine what brand is good but I noticed my front pilot screw screeched when turning it in and the rear didn't. I also found out the front wasn't going in as far as the rear..
A pesar de yo no hablar el idioma, la explicación fue muy buena. Felicitaciones.
Gracias
Lol 😂 me again mate!! 6mm with .5 pitch is that the size of that pilot screw that gets stuck or sticky? I found a link talking about just this problem except for the froze in one but for the ones that are difficult to remove or screeching noises when turning in or out. Mine is doing that and I'm going to clean out the threads in there. I seen for another one for some 38mm Mikuni carbs and it was 4x.70 the other size was for a 85 vm. Thanks again!!
Got another question for my 95 Yamaha Virago 535SG. For the main jet sizes the manuals say 137.5 front cylinder 135 rear cylinder. But online Yamaha diagrams it shows the 135 in the front carb and 137.5 in rear carb where throttle lever is. So why do the manuals say front cylinder 137.5, rear cylinder 135? Isn't the front cylinder behind the front tire and the rear by the back seat? I have someone telling me the rear is the front and the front is the rear, I know (from rear to front of bike) cylinder numbering is 1-2 which I thought was firing order idk. But I also see that in the book it says to take the "front carb" enrichment diaphragm off and that's before you split carb. So I'd think that the front carb goes to front cylinder and rear carb (where gas goes in first) is going to rear cylinder, right?? I'm just so confused 🤔
Another first-class movie from the UK's best mechanic! How's your twin brother doing? Keep them throttles wide open, mate! Greetings from Lieland.
I wish to be the best mechanic in the UK, but I really appreciate your words😉👍👍 Twin brother is fine thanks he has calmed down🤣🤣
Weather been really bad in the past few weeks/months..I didn't have a chance yet for a good ride😔
@@MidlandCruiser Mate, I'm currently sitting in my office, it's 10 pm and 37 degrees Celcius hot. Fragging climate here. The next oil change will be with Motul 20 W 50. But the Castrol 20/40 does a good job for little money, called Castrol Active. You have raining cats and dogs, nothin' is perfect/ Keep da wheels turnin'...............................................................................................................................
That is crazy...I would spend all my money on electricity to runnthe AC🤣
20w-50 Motul, same as mine? You'll have no problems with that👍👍
Great video. Can you tell me what the small black barbed fitting is for at the front lower left corner of each carb?
Thank you.
Hello. That black fitting is the drain nipple to drain the petrol out, and that's where you attach a transparent tube if you setting up fuel level.
@@MidlandCruiser Thank you.
I'm sure it will run much better. Kinda like removing your mask and being able to breath 🌞
Thanks for the effort put into making that, really helps. After 26 years of home maintenance I took my 535 to a workshop, they gave me a single cylinder bike back. Front mixture all the way in and seized solid. I had to drill it out with a left-handed drill, the end was bent over. I hope the new one goes in when it arrives. If not then the LIfan route, did you move the 535 jets over or does it arrive ready for mounting?
Wow...that is some "workshop", my condolences🤦♂️.
No the Lifan is jetted for the 400 so will need jet transfer. I haven't got to that point in the rebuild yet..I hope to finish it this year so I can sell it in 2022. I will start uploading again regularly, I just had to stop for a bit...good luck with yours👍
I like your video!!!Do you know if each carb has a diffrent size of needle??
Thanks. Yes the front and rear has different needles and it also depends which model and what year you have. USA has different ones compared to the rest of us. Best is to download a manual and that tells you what you need..hope this helps
Thanks a lot I'm almost done putting mine back together waiting on a o-ring and a c clip that I just can't find lol it cost me a little less in parts to do a total job to the new carb you got. I wanted to have the original in my Yamaha Virago XV.. what was the matter with this carb you dissembling?
Hello....yes the parts can be expensive and I also prefer the Mikuni over this Lifan set, but it was recommended by a lot of people so I thought I'd give it a try.
Th problem was that the pilot screw got siezed in the body solid. I didn't want to drill it out and cause maybe even more damage...now the rear carb body is sold so I will use what's left for spares.
I am currently way behind schedule and will only be finishing the bike over the winter and sell it next year, so the videos will come a little bit slower...I hope your rebuild works out fine and will run nice👍
@@MidlandCruiser thanks bro!!
I've noticed my rear carb has no washer on the emulsion tube. I've ordered one.
Is there a specific orientation for the emulsion tube? Mine seems to be able to spin around
Hello, the washer is there so you locked against the plastic so the tube can't move up and down. Yours is spinning because someone stripped the plastic when tighten up the jet in the brass tube.
There is no specific direction for it just now will be a bit difficult to make it tight because it's spinning.
For reassembling them would you put the o-ring under the jet block and tighten, then put the emulsion tube in through diaphragm slide bore? Or would you put the emulsion tube in with jet block off and put the o-ring on still from the front side of the jet block mating surface then put block on and tighten both down? I've seen 2 people put the o-ring on the emulsion tube first all the way to the end and stick that through the bore with no o-ring on the jet block side but not on of my 3 books say it's like that but they don't show you how to assemble it nor in disassembling videos have I ever not seen the o-ring on under the jet block. I was doing my fuel level measurements and couldn't seem to get it right. I decided something was up and sure enough I had gas all over the diaphragm slides and lower boots so in my thinking I looked at my old o-rings and they're bigger than the ones that came in the cheap Chinese kit so I ordered new ones and the gaskets. Everything is new, how would it leak in the diaphragm area and in the boots wth have I done wrong. I spent all day trying to get the fuel level right and decided finally to pull it all back apart. And with have the o-ring on the back of the o-ring it sticks out the bore a little and I'm thinking allows the diaphragm needle to hit the end where the screw is. I also bought a new washers under the screw hoping to get a better seal. But I'm thinking those skinner o-rings got me idk.. any suggestions?
I haven't started to put the bike together yet, sorry. For that reason I can't really answer you question. I also have a new set of Lifan carbs which will go on the bike instead of the originals, but I will have to look inside to find out what size of jets are in there so I'll look into what would be the best order to put it together..
@@MidlandCruiser thanks 👍!!!
Do you still have your old diaphragms? I'm trying to find out where the air hole on the slides are when installed and tab is in 1oclock position. I think I saw the air hole on yours was in the 6oclock position but couldn't tell for the front. I noticed mine were in different positions but have moved them and can't remember what position they were in but I've noticed in buying new diaphragm it says to mark it I think that's for a reason. I don't know if it matters but my diaphragm slides were numbered one and 2 and the holes were in different places. I hope you kept yours:) hope all is good 👍
Hello. I still have them and just had a quick look and the holes are at 6 o'clock on both when the tab on the rubber is at 1 o'clock and I don't have any numbers on them. They might be not the original ones though, I don't know.
@@MidlandCruiser thanks 👍
CLR 50/50 water to CLR put it in a peanut bar jar or bigger jar with a sander attached to it and suspend it for about a hour and half. Gets it perfectly clean.
I do have an ultrasonic cleaner with specific carb cleaning solution, but thank you for the suggestion, it might be helpful for others..👍
Great video. Can you share the link where you bought these Lifan carbs?
Hello...sorry for not showing the comment straight away, but too many spammers are on CZcams these days so I have to check every one before allowing it through.
Here is the link, for the one I bought but haven't tried them yet so can't say anything about the quality. The choke arm was slightly bent on arrival and seems weaker than the original...but we'll see how it works once I get round to fit them.
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000349612729.html
Previous owner who messed with carburetors: "What's a JIS screwdriver?" "They make different sized flat blade screwdrivers?" Lol
😁Funny... Unfortunately this is normal, nearly every bike I worked on had this problem
Hey bro, me again got a question 😀 After you install the carb do you go in this sequence to dial them in; idle, fuel level measurements, using the Gunson Colortune to set pilot screws, sync and idle again? I've got the Colortune someone said sync should be last but can't get a answer to what sequence I should go. And to do the fuel level measurements you need a small tube to attach to the drain fittings then use the tool to make sure it's 13.5-14.5 mm below the bowl line ughhh the part I got didn't fit the small nipple on the drain fitting. How do you do it? And what sequence should I go? When I synced them today the video says to raise idle up a little then sync well I did and it pops/backfires after now. I haven't set the fuel level yet. He said sync should be last because all other changes will change the sync.. and to start with fuel level measurements... What do I do? Please help bro! 😫
Hello...after carb rebuild you always start with the fuel level, and you will need the small nipple so you can attach a transparent tube to see it properly.
So...
1st Fuel level
2nd Sync (idle and around 3k)
3rd Colortune (idle only)
4th Re-check the sync
Done
You can check higher engine speed with the colortune to make sure it's not too lean, also when you blip it to rev up, it should be a nice orange color, indicating nice rich fueling for when you need it.
Also worth checking the gap in the colortune to make sure it's around 0.7mm because bigger gap can cause popping...hope this helps👍
@@MidlandCruiser thank you very much!! So when I sync it, sync it at idle first then change idle screw to have idle at 3000 or use throttle grip and sync then if out of sync at 3000? Thanks!!!!!!
@@MidlandCruiser and when I Re-check sync do I just do it at idle or both idle and 3k again? And after I sync it after fuel level I sync it then adjust idle back to the 1150-1250rpm/k (book specs) after the 3000k or after I sync after idle too would I set it back to 1150 or just change screw to set idle at 3k sync if off and then set idle to spec?? Thanks tremendously!!!
@@karlh4313 wow...I'm a little confused reading the loads of "afters"😆
So...Fuel level 1st, then sync on idle and 3k using the throttle and Not the idle screw.
This is important so both carbs sucking evenly through the pilot circuit....while setting the idle mixture with colortune you may have to change the idle screw to keep it where it should be (1150-1250)
Once you happy, just hook up the sync tool and re check it like you did it first time, using the throttle, and NOT the idle screw....that should be set by now and shouldn't need adjusting. I always do quite a few throttle movements BEFORE starting the engine so all the mechanical bits in the throttle mechanism settle. All the way to idle and snap it a few times too, let it snap back to the screw.....WITHOUT THE ENGINE RUNNING 😉🙂
I hope this clears up any doubts..👍
@@MidlandCruiser definitely thanks!!
Any link to the replacement carbs you bought please
Hi sorry for the late reply...
I bought this m.aliexpress.com/item/4000349612729.html?spm=a2g0n.orderlist-amp.item.4000349612729&aff_trace_key=b86a3d65652c41c785e292e8d765949d-1641736252529-02260-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=6213amp-ouOqnipGWsFRzJrgYLnHTg1641736328324&browser_id=bcfab45c4c014e7e9c70ae3ac0a2dc5c&is_c=N
It seems to be out of stock however you might be able to get it from a different seller, just make sure you read everything in the description so you get exactly what you wanted. I haven't fitted it yet so can't say how good or bad it is, but heard good things about it, that's why I got it...
Hey back again lol why is it important to put carbs on inlet side on plate glass when putting back together? It says it's for proper alignment I guess to have them perfect idk thanks!
Yes it is just to align them straigth...for inline engines it is a practice to do, normally V-twins don't require it but the way the 535 is designed, thier carbs need it.
@@MidlandCruiser thanks 🙏
@@MidlandCruiser last thing the inlet side facing down would be the side that faces the block right??
@@MidlandCruiser and for real thanks for all your help!!!
@@karlh4313 yes, the inlet side is down, use that side for alignment
From where did you buy the Lifan carbs?
Aliexpress mate...took 40 days to arrive in the UK. £135 including UK VAT and postage, no customs charges😉
Hey Midland Cruiser! Was wondering do you know what the symptoms of a leaking choke plunger is? I have a one that is leaking barely but wer for sure! Im also having issues with the idle staying the same it seems to fluctuate.. would you know why?? And what do you think about cheap vacuum diaphragms? Should I of order a All Balls rebuild kit and Yamaha diaphragms and coast enrichment system diaphragms instead of a cheap Chinese kit that came with everything from vacuum diaphragms and coast enrichment diaphragms and everything else needed valve seat etc.. I've read that the materials are not good with ethanol..
Unfortunately I don't know about leaking choke, however I'd think it would cause it to run richer and possibly would make it cut out instead of fluctuating idle.
Usually if the idle moves up and down it is caused by a vacuum leak somewhere..
Try to spray some brake cleaner around the boots and where the carb mounts to the boots and if it changes the idle than its a vacuum leak.
Worth checking the seal at the top of the carb where the membrane are.
Regarding the parts, I'd buy the known brand instead of the Chinese , saying that I bought the Lifan carbs for this bike however I don't know how good or bad they will turn out...
I decided not to strip the whole engine apart so that will bring the completion forward a bit but I can only start doing it later (not sure when though yet)
@@MidlandCruiser thanks for all you info and expertise in all this you've helped me a lot for real!!
@@MidlandCruiser did you mean spray carb cleaner?
No I meant brake cleaner...small short squirts. Very flammable so be careful and only do it on the outside joints/sealing faces and NEVER into the carb..
If you not sure or hesitant then leave it, and just double check all the sealing areas for leaks...
@@MidlandCruiser no I can use brake clean I'm not hesitant I just thought I always used carb cleaner to check. Can I use either of the two or will brake clean tell where the leak is better.
You wouldn’t happen to have a link for them carburetors. And how are they working for you so far.
I haven't fitted it yet so can'tsay...unfortunately that will be, pretty much the last thing I put on..here is the link
m.aliexpress.com/item/4000349612729.html
Is it normal for the diaphragm slides to have gas on them when dissembling right after running? Mine had gas on the slides... Just wondering..
Well not really, unless you had some left in the bowl and accidentally spilled on to them, but generally they should be free from petrol
@@MidlandCruiser thanks again!!!! Yes the bowls were full
SMH
Have you fitted the new carbs yet and if you have how are they running
Hello....loads of things come up and couldn't focus on the bike as much as I should have, so no, not yet unfortunately.
I have still loads to do with other parts of the bike but I hope I can finish it in the autumn...sorry
Yes I’ll keep looking at your channel for when you do but I can watch your other videos as well 👍
😉 Thank you, I really appreciate it if you do 👍
I opened my carbs and now I have fuel coming out of one of my exhaust pipes (engine off) ignition on.
Sorry for the late reply...fuel from the exhaust is really bad...you'll need an oil change as well now... your floats are stuck open so the pump will never turn off and will fill up the cylinders...very bad. Your carbs need cleaning and set up properly.
Hey 👋 got another question for you.. why would the pilot screws have to be turned almost all the way in instead of 2&1/2 turns out to get a good air/fuel mixture? What would be causing that? Thanks
Hello. That could be caused by wrong jet size (too big) if you set everything up in the right order (valve clearance, fuel level, sync, pilot screws) and the jets are the correct ones then maybe you have to lower the throttle stop to get the idle down, close to stalling, and then try open up the pilot screws...maybe the bike runs of the throttle instead of the pilot circuit, hope it makes sense...😉
@@MidlandCruiser is the throttle stop the throttle screw that raises and lowers rpms? Thanks
Might have to rebuild it again..
@@MidlandCruiser did you ever get the Lifan carb on an how is it?
@@MidlandCruiser or what is the throttle stop? 😂
The screws are mangled because someone has been using a philips screwdriver instead of a J.I.S. (Japanese Industrial Screws) screwdriver
Does anyone know the best way to remove the valve seat for the needle on these carbs? Everyone removes everything but the seats on these carbs
That is correct, unfortunately those seats are pressed into the housing and difficult to remove them. Usually everyone just polish them up and that's it. To be honest the brass housing can't get really damaged, most of the time the rubber perishing on the needle instead, so a quick polish is enough for the housing with a new needle and will be working fine. Hope this helps a little however not answering your question 😁🤦♂️
Hey, why don't you spray a little WD40 on the screws to loosen them? it works like a charm! Also the impact screwdriver could help you deal with the problem. I personally don't like to hammer on things but the impact screwdriver is a safe way to go, they say :) (Edit: now I see, that you did use the WD40 later in the video...The WD works well if you apply it and let the part sit for a few minutes.
Hi, thank you for the suggestions, yes I have used penetrating oil (however not WD40) , but it was beyond saving... I let it sit in it for days, also added heat many times but still wouldn't even move a tiny bit, and ended up snapping, so I had to ditch it... 🤷♂️
Do you have a link to the carb you did get for it? Thanks
Hi there this is the one I ordered, I think the top review is mine..
www.aliexpress.com/item/4000349612729.html
@@MidlandCruiser thanks!!
Hi ...really like ur vids... do the carbs come with correct jets?
Look like refurbished? A short video of installing alternative carbs would be helpful 🤗
Hi...thank you. They are new as far as I could tell. I think the jetts are for the 400 so will need to check that. Once I get around to do it the video will be up here..😉👍
Just few questions did you check the pilot screw adjustment on the China carb? How did it run with the the new carb? Do you have to check fuel level, sync and I'm sure you have to idle maybe but for the fuel level and syncing?? Thanks for your time and help!!
I'm having a real issue with getting my fuel level measurement right ughhh! I'm at 30 mm below the center mark on the cover and I can only get it to about 20 and then it seems to keep the pump running and no gas comes out till I bend the tang down on the float to let the valve down some.. what am I doing wrong? I have a 3 mm hose attached to the drain fitting with a adapter for a hose and then the Yamaha glass part for this with the mm's on it.. I'm confused!!!!! And need help!!!
Here is a useful link to set up the fuel level..
viragotech.com/newtech/XV535%20-%20Setting%20float%20levels%20on%20the%20bench.htm
Try to pinch the main fuel line to the carbs to see if the pump shut off or not, also make sure you used the right needle if you changed it, maybe it is longer slightly which would explain why the level is so low.
Check the little tangs on the floats to make sure they are not deformed in any way.
Make sure the fuel filter and all the pipes are clean and the pipes has no kink which would prevent the pump to create pressure....
@@MidlandCruiser thank you!!
@@MidlandCruiser OK I think I found the issue my hose/tube for the drain fitting was kinked. This morning the fuel level was right around 20mm below center mark on cover. So I'm guessing the float is not going high enough when it shuts off and I should bend tang up bc it should be 14mm below center mark. Is this correct?? Thanks!!!!!!!! Does it matter how long the tube is??
@@MidlandCruiser Book says bending the float upward very slightly to lower the fuel level; bend the tang down to raise the fuel level. If too high to rich to low to lean. So does the book mean to lower the fuel level you bend tang upward, would that mean it would make it go from 20mm to 14mm below center mark or would it make it worse like 30mm below????
If you bend the tang up it will close the valve earlier and makes the measured gap bigger so from 20mm to 30mm.
Bending the tang up makes lower fuel level = bigger gap from the line
Bending the tang down will raise the fuel level = from 20mm to 14mm which is what you want.
All these Bending directions apply by looking at the float straight after you remove the bowl (cover)
Imagine what's happening inside the carbs when the fuel starts to pour in
First it goes to the bottom then starts raising the float until it pushes the valve shut....so if you bend the tang up it will get closer to the valve in resting position so it will close it earlier when the float rises causing less fuel in the carb...
I hope it makes sense...
🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷👍
Lifan carbs!!! What could go wrong, mate? Lol
I know.. 😁We'll see how they perform.. The originals are in bad shape... 1 pilot screw siezed in completely, and on the other, the jet block is beyond repair... I'll make sure the Lifans are reliable and bang on perfect before I sell the bike 😉👍
@@MidlandCruiser Mate, I truly hope that they perform well. I've heard a lot of bad things about removing and putting them back in, that some even take the engine out to do so. Best of luck!!!! ( And kind regards from Thailand. It's hot as hell, holiday coming soon on a paradise island in the south. Will think about you. Cheers.
Exactly we'll see.. I still have the option to transfer everything from the mikuni carbs except the broken jet block.. I think with a proper check up, settings and jets it should be fine... Here not so hot yet, and probably won't even get close to yours... However many bikers got thier bikes out, me not yet, need MOT (yearly check up required by the government) first... Enjoy the good weather my friend 😉
@@MidlandCruiser I wonder if some gel CLR in the hole of the pilot screw would get it free maybe a little heat in the hole with heat gun from inside the carb inlet too. Idk
@@sisaketmike why would they take the engine out to do so? Did they say why? I had no issues getting carb out or back together after taking apart the carbs like in his video just need to use a straight glass to keep them level while tightening up the upper and lower brackets.