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Hi, thank you. Yes the play, as long as it isn't excessive, it's fine. It really is a small movement though.

Thanks. That isn't paint, it is the factory chroming.

No, not really. Could be deceiving though because of the noise, but as far as I remember it didn't affect it.

@@MidlandCruiser i see! Thanks for the reply. Also thanks for the videos by the way. Has helped me tremendously when working on the bike myself!

The baffle wasn't removable on this version. Only the 2022 updated version has one

Hello, yes I have seen that video too. The one I used has no seal whatsoever. In my opinion it is a bad idea. The only oil source for the bearing (previously the bushing) is coming from the camshafts, it sprays everywhere inside there and than flows down through the bearing..perfect. The bushing had 3 small holes to get rid of the extra oil in the head and flows back down next to the chain. If you leave the cover on, on the inside, than you are limiting the oil for the bearing which I think is bad, because the oil flow is restricted out from the head and can't oil the chain properly which could lead to more wear. The camshafts have plenty of oil flow for themselves and the extra what flows out is perfect for the open bearing...I have also noticed that when I ride the bike hard I don't get low oil level warning like others with bushing or sealed bearing which indicates lack of oil flowing back down and gets trapped in the head.. This is my opinion and I think it makes sense, so me personally wouldn't use any sealed bearing. Also remember, it must be a C3 rated one to allow for heat expansion. I drove about 3000miles like this and it's great, no issues. Hope this helps

@MidlandCruiser It does. Your thoughts were exactly mine too. Had the same concern about oil flow and adequate lubrication when using a sealed bearing. Thanks a lot! Off to swap mine 😊

Unfortunately that part is like rocking hore shit...you could possibly get a new (2nd hand) carb assembly easier. Also you could try and glue it, there are special glue available for using it in fuel, to be fair can't get worse than it is. To be fully honest I don't think that is a separate part which you can buy, it isn't meant to be taken out of the body. Hope this helps a little

You're welcome!

😁👍

Hello, thank you. As for the bag brackets unfortunately not many around. I think your best bet is ebay and Facebook marketplace (be careful there, 90% are scams, never buy anything you can't collect and pay in person, speaking from experience 🤦‍♂️) If you can get a rusty one, there is always an option to re-chrome it if needed, and it will keep it's value considering less and less are available (bikes and accessories) sorry not much of a help this time. Thanks again for watching my video.

@@MidlandCruiser thx, I'll check that net sides 👍 Have a calm winter and exciting riding season ahead.

I'm really sorry but, I had to postpone the video making for a while. Not sure when I will continue. Apologies

Hi sorry for the late reply. I see the problem in the video and I think it is an editing mistake. What is important is that at the end it aligns as I explain it. The single line on the flywheel and the hole on the top. If yours isn't like that than something could be set wrong. I also realize that you are probably solved the problem you had already.

Well I sold it at the end and went for a custom made one. The sound was ok, not loud, looks is alright but the craftsmanship is shockingly bad. Welds burnt through at some places, damaged, dented scratched etc...I wouldn't buy one again. I'd recommend Delkevic but they don't make one for the 1100 only the rear downpipe. If you are desperate because of the original rotting away then fine, but if for only the sound and the looks than try buying 2nd hand, condition will be probably the same (dents and scratches 😁🤦‍♂️) but cheaper. This is obviously my experience with it, I know people out there using them and happy...I might had a "made on Friday one"

Hello, unfortunately I'm not familiar with the V-star or it's monoshock setup. If you are worried that the shaft drive is affected but you'd be fine with the standard height then just buy an original second hand set from ebay, or new whichever fits the budget. Sorry but I'm not much of a help with this

Omg, that was a long time ago. I think the bucket is quite thin, about 1mm, so one which can go over that, should be enough. Hope this helps

Hello...I wish I could tell you 🤦‍♂️ I have loads other stuff going on at the moment

Hello. This only shows how to get it going again after a flooding, to fix the problem all the bike setting needs to be set right. TPS position Air bypass screws on the throttle bodies Blue trim pots (on the ECU) All the above needs to be set to the Eprom chip you are running. There is an Italian guy on the apriliaforum called Gabro, he is racing Tuonos in Italy and make custom eproms for these engines. Send him a PM and he can get you a chip which will be designed for your modifications, if you all stock he can get you one for that too. He will also tell you where to set everything (TPS, trim pots, bypass screws) then you shouldn't have any more issues, unless there is an other problem, which could be: Fuel pump Injectors clogged (bad spray) Fuel pump pipes inside the tank Fuel filter on the pump Fuel pressure regulator Over oiled air filter (K&N) Spark plugs I hope this helps a little, all the best