Yamaha Virago XV 535 Running Rough Missing and Backfiring
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- čas přidán 9. 10. 2020
- Yamaha Virago XV 535 Running Rough Missing and Backfiring, I'm guessing it could be one of the coils breaking down and that will be the next thing to try.
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I feel the frustration,I too have same model as you,it was sold to me as non running WITH running issues,through the years I have done and thrown everything at it.
Compression is A+,wiring A+ ,components top-notch,Carbs had rooted rubber components including rock hard "plugs" in the float bowls and cracked diaphragms ,AH HA I thought.
-Still didnt fix it-BUT noticed lights being brighter at idle than revved up,checked charging voltage and noticed a dramatic drop at high rev's.
Replaced original voltage rect/reg' (which also is in an asanine location ABOVE the exhaust bell housing under bike),I installed a Golwing reg/rect' and mounted it under the left side fake chrome "bulge"--charging was 100% and full voltage no drop off after that (I have tried 2 Caltric reg/rect's and both failed within a day before Honda one).
Ran like a champ,test rode it for 45 miles,stopping/going everything I put it through the ringer "it's done" I thought.
Rode it 25 miles to deliver on a hot day and it vaporlocked due to fuel hose too close to rear cylinder.
Still to this day it fouls rear plug mainly no matter what,I say it's a design flaw of where the carbs are on TOP of cylinders cooking from heat.
Bike has now sat collecting dirt for over 4 years ,next step for me is trying a single carb' conversion and tossing those nightmare ones from the factory which worked fine new but cannot be serviced with parts any longer (and yes I tossed internal rubber plugs and installed pipe thread brass plugs).
Good luck to ALL 535 owners,I say toss them and get an old Honda.
Well..... did you do the single carb conversion? How did it go?
@@Eana-of-Sussex NO , customer ran out of patience and funding , but I can say I only read of A+ results using a single sportster carb conversion , but the manifold will need to be made and made right to flow proper- years ago ebay had 1 seller in Europe who sold a very good hand made manifold but with a hefty price.I sold the MC for the customer.The stock carb's were always an issue being they had many rubber plugs inside which dry and leak with age-and ethanol fuel doesn't dance well with them either- the other issue was vapor locking from engine heat , not only the carbs but the fuel feed line also which ran behind the rear cylinder - One more tip , MOVE the regulator away from over the exhaust crossover bell on the bottom side , I moved it to under the empty left side chrome ball thing on the side of the tank- again GREAT bike with LOTS of power when it runs right but it had many design flaws including the TINY under-seat tank
I had same issue with my front cylinder. I swap my carburator to single carb and its running smooth and more power full.
I had what appeared to be the same issue, it was carbs . Pilot adjustment and rebalance.
Sounds like only one cylinder is firing. I had a similar problem with my front cylinder not firing. It was the corroded pickup coil wire connection. All the pins were green like yours. I used vinegar and salt mix together like an acid wash and soaked the wire end connectors for about 3 minutes. Then I use my cordless toothbrush to clean the contacts. Then I rinsed the connectors off with water and baking soda. Then I dried everything off waited about 10 minutes and connected everything back and everything was good. That solved the issue! Both cylinders running strong now!
Well... after watching more of your video i see you switched all the coil wires and then it was running on both but seemed to be off.. hope you figured it out.
Hello, my bike also is running only in the back cylinder.
Would you mind to explain me where are those coil wires located?
Can we see that in a time stamp in this video?
Thanks!
@@rc2634 I've got on the front carb was crap, I didn't like the look of none of it. I scraped the carbs,made a new intake 2into1 and I stuck a aftermarket carb on it,
And now it runs like a striped ape !!
I've got 2 into 1 intakes that I had manufactured .they slip into the rubber seal on the heads and whatever carb you want to use. I picked up one off e-bay.
@@kevinhinzo6703 do you know where i can find this intake?
94 plate 535 here had one cylinder after replacing fuel mix screw for new cylinders back tried everything before the fuel mix screw.
I read somewhere that these engines should be fitted with restrictors in the inlets which are frequently either left out or fitted to the exhausts by mistake
Currently working on mine with the electrical. Runs after sitting in my shop couple years. I noticed the kill switch was very finicky when going to run and off. Barely touch it and it shuts off even with vibrations of the engine. I put some tape to hold it on run and bike did not shut off. Hope thia helps and you figure out the issue.
Diode in the plug cap ? well done for getting into the ecu !!!!
Have you checked the valve clearance
on the oem ignition coils u cant just swap wires because one terminal is smaller and one is bigger
Good day Sir. I need some help on my project Virago 535 I don't have the OEM wiring harness. Would it be possible for me to ask you to point out each pin connections on the TCI/CDI? Like which pin goes to where... like pulser/ pick up coils, ignition coils, 12v positive and ground? I'm planning on simplifying the ignition system. No side stand, clutch or fuel pump switches. I have the same TCI/CDI as you. Thanks in advance! More power to you.
Have a look here and scroll down to the image - www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003146850296.html
@@OldBiker Thank you very
much! Now I'll be able to move forward on my project!
Sorry for the spam mate... How you manage to get your carbs out? Do I have to drop the engine a little? I wanna clean them rigorously but can manage it with the carbs in and can't manage how to get them out without dropping the engine a little...
It's a bugger you gotta pull the intake boot up into the frame then shoe horn the carbs out replacement done by folding the boot in half and securing with a cable tie so as to relocate them. you'll get it.
Check your coils. Test the resistance between primary terminals in the connector it must be 3.8 to 4.6 ohms then test resistance between sparkplug wire and one of the primary terminals, should be 10.6 to 25.8 k ohms
are you sure about 25.8 k??? 1987 trough 1993 us models have 10.6-16.8k at 20deg Celsius,1988 UK 10.6 to 15.8k,1989 to 1993 UK 12.0 to 14.5k. this is info from haynes 1981 to 1994 repair manual
The connectors on my bike are also green and I’ve been wondering if this might be the issue of not charging the battery..
Quite possible, I cut the plugs of and crimped them together so now I know the connections are all good
Hola, saludos sólo aclarar que el módulo de encendido se llama TCI y no es un CDI cumplen la misma función, pero el TCI está directamente relacionado con la batería no como en el caso del CDI. Buena suerte amigo.
Hello, do you have the ignition connection diagram of my yamaha virago xv 535 motorcycle? My motorcycle turns on from the ignition switch, but does not turn off. Even if I turn the key off, the motorcycle continues to run. There is an error in the link. Can you help?
Hi that's a weird problem, it could just be down to a faulty ignition switch or some
bare wires connecting each other, for example if the live from the rectifier regulator is shorting against the live from the ignition switch it will keep the bike running even when the key is set to off, you'd need to look at all the wiring under the seat and down by the fuel pump and check all the connections and wires to see if anything has melted down there first
Hey man ! Did you solve the problem ? I have the same issue on my virago 535, few more ideas to try but almost running out of solution pretty soon !
Have a nice day !
Not as yet, I stopped working on it while waiting payment to carry on, I might be getting back on the Virago issues next week.
@@OldBiker OK Cool ! can't wait to know about it ! Cheers !
@@OldBiker did you find the problem?
have you sorted out the problem yet? i have an 87xv535 with the exact exact same issue. so far ive replaced both coils. taken it to an electrician says the TCI is fine. replaced both spark plugs with premium expensive ones, made sure they had the correct gap according to the manual. ive had compression tests done, carbs fully rebuild with every peice brand new also new floats. all the ohms tests for each wire exct exct. and even replaced the rectifer runs great for an hour or so on both cylinders then after about an hour or so the front cylinder will stop working ill stop the big to try and diagnose the problem leave it off for about an hour turn it back on then the front cylinder works again. idk what the hell is going on .....
I'm still working on it, so far I've checked the ohms in the pickup coils and main coils primary and secondary winding's, both ok, new coils, plugs, replacement TCI, new stator, compression test no problems, three sets of carbs two of them completely stripped and parts renewed and put back to Yamaha specs, new battery, new starter solenoid and a new fuel pump and still nothing has changed. I am almost about to give up on it as a lost cause.
If you are using stock carbs, make sure that they have the correct jets and needles as each carb is set up differently due to the rear cylinder getting hotter than the front.
yea ive had them proffesionally rebuilt and the shop that did it said the same thing, me thinking i was the reason the carbs werent working :(. have you tried checking the whole electricall assembly where the acceliration is? ive seen on some forum a while back some guys said that this thing can cause these problems, but other then a continuatiy check idk how else you would check it :( ill keep you updated as well i belive this tuesday ill be taking it to a automotive/motorcycle mechanic to check all the electronics and wiring :(
@@stimulatechamind1 i had this problem and tci had some cold spots in soldering. After i resoldered problems were gone
@@dadobojanic even if all the soder points look perfect? think i could still be the TCI and i should try adding more soder to all the connections?
" which throws the engine into reverse and spits out the carb" What?? That's for sure? If this helps: I'll do it, blow into the overflow pipe of the rear cylinder carburetor, then the rear cylinder will work fine! I had this.
fuel pump maybe ?
listen to see if it clicking and working if only clicks once the connections are fucked. sounds like it not getting enough fuel.
mine has this problem at the moment and i noticed the fuel pump is not pumping enough fuel
It does pump but not very strong so got another coming this week
11:59 a few of those caps look swollen, or it could be just the camera angle. Bottom right, and centre
hi GT thats all the glue they pour in there, I think its the coil breaking down and I have one on order so thats the next test
@@OldBiker Cool. It's got to be either the coil or the CDI.
Mannnnn I'm having the same goddamn problem with my Yamaha virago 400... Do you solved the problem? I checked everything on mine and everything looks fine, sometimes it works for an hour or less fine then the front cylinder stop working... I heat the TCI with a hair dryer and the bike worked fine 1 day... Been looking for TCI replacements but all I get are yamaha virago 750 and 1100 TCI'S and for some reason they doesn't work fine even if they look exactly the same as the 400TCI, under 3k revs the bike works fine but after that it starts backfiring with the big virago's TCI... With the original TCI the front cylinder woks sometimes and sometimes dies at all... The only thing that has worked is putting a LOT of heat on the TCI and it will only work fine 1 day... Plus here in Costa Rica I can't find anything for a Yamaha virago 400 and getting a replacement TCI for this virago in specific is almost imposible here
Working on one of these at the moment - everything has been tried to no avail elsewhere - I went through the carbs, floats, blah blah like everyone does - bike still fouls the sparks. IMO - and I think I am right, it isn't the carbs, it's the CDI/TCI. That's dropping out, no spark, so the plugs get wet, people assume it's the carbs.. I'll open the CDI & resolder any shonky joints - I'm betting the bike will then run well.
@@jamesward5721 And? What happened?
@@konix148 Was the cdi - I bought an aftermarket replacement & fitted it - problem solved.
@@jamesward5721 Oh! Super!!👍
Oz Braid Used Yamaha Virago
Cliff I would try swopping the front and rear coils over, if it changes to the front misfiring then you know its the coil breaking down. if there is know difference I would whip the head off and check the head gasket and for sticking valves. Just a thought. Good luck!
The HT leads dont reach, the front pot lead is only a few inces long and wont reach to the rear
@@MrSandpit123 Cant you unbolt the coils and move them so they reach , or take the HT cap off and screw a spare LONG HT lead into the end of the short lead. a triumph has long leads.
It's not the cols, the rear pot is continually firing so the minute it gets any fuel in the cylinder it fires and it fires before the piston is at TDC which throws the engine in reverse and spits out the carb, its not the pickup coils as they are fixed so it can only be the igniter unit at at fault.
Had the same problem. Did you check for a broken carb manifold o ring
Yeah checked that, I even put sealant on them to make sure of a tight seal. Have you tried any of the aftermarket diaphragms?
@@OldBiker yes and they are fine bought them from motorcycle products
The engine's are bulletproof.
Most people forget that the fuel pump becomes week. It will supply enough to run but not ride . Most give up.
Did you resolve this issue?
No Pete I'm waiting for another Igniter to turn up as I've been through everything else twice now so it looks like the most expensive part that needs replacing.
@@OldBiker What TCI is installed on your motor. I have a XV400 with the J4T033 TCI. Would love to see a circuit diagram for it.
It looked to me like the ic's were burnt.
That sounds terrible ! almost like the ignition firing points are all wrong or the engine is running in reverse .
Looks like some of the capacitors are bulging slightly at the tops ? Thats a common failure fault on computer power supply circuit boards .
What you could do with is some additional parts to substitute ....very frustrating.
Hi John, the caps are all ok, the bulging you see iis the glue thats poured all over them to keep them from moving, I'm sure its an ignition fault, the rear cylinder only firing every now n then, the spark on the plug is not great so I'm thinking the coil is breaking down under load, I have one on order now so will try that and if it still runs like it does it has to be the TCI
@@OldBiker theres a lot to be said sometimes for the simplicity of a points and mechanical advance system lol. Lots of xs650 folk seem to be replacing their electronic ignition systems with the original ignition system. I couldn't go back there myself after having a Boyer .....
@@johncooper7242 Yeah from what I've heard a Boyer is the best option for a points exchange, a lot of people have issues with the Pamco ignition but I've not had any problems as of yet, I still have a pile of points setups on standby though
A used Yamaha Virago 400 needs electronic