Better Than IKEA for $200 Less (with BUILD PLANS!)
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2023
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Better Than IKEA for $200 Less
• Better Than IKEA for $...
I Like To Make Stuff
/ iliketomakestuff - Jak na to + styl
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Love you vids, I have been a long subscriber, I have a suggestion for the next video anyway you can make an ice chest like those Yeti ones❤❤❤❤❤
Your videos are incredibly helpful and informative and thanks to you and the way you break projects down I took on a few of my own.
I started making skateboards by using a 3d printed mold that I designed. I have done a few other projects as well but that has been the best by far because it has helped taken my skateboard business to the next level and it’s an incredible opportunity to learn and use a 3d printer! Thank you and keep up the great videos!
I like to make stuff 😏 I love making technique and one day you can show me.
Wouldn't they add another 80 bucks or so for delivery? Otherwise you'd have to get it in store yourself...
Considering that the nearest Ikea is about 4 hours away... and shipping on these things is outrageous... I like the DIY approach. :)
I think the closest Ikea to me is 6 hours away.
about 2 hours 30 minutes ish for me if there was no traffic
I think with the plans available I could build several in the time it takes to drive to the nearest IKEA and have time left over that I wouldn't also spend on the way back.
@@tiffanysandmeier4753 most likely haha
@BenCos2018 not that I drive that way just for IKEA. I went once, but that was during a vacation to that city. There was 1 thing that I really wanted, and we were basically right there, i.e. Lack table 3d printer enclosure. This was in 2017/8. I don't remember exactly when, so it has been a while.
I invested about 4000 in tools and built most of my furniture (and the extended family) myself; it's channels like yours that inspire, thank you!
Unless you only use a tool for one project it seems unreasonable to apply the entire cost to that project. Maybe the most reasonable is to use the rental cost of those tools if it's not a tool you'll be able to use for a lot of projects.
@@JeffDM Yeah, in my case I completely renovated a house and built all furniture myself, then went on to the in-laws; if I would divide it per usage, I would say my cost for building a cabinet like that is material + $12 & time
The way you integrate your ad while continuing your build video is great. I wish more people did that instead of cutting into their video. And love the cabinet, of course.
Great point. I agree completely.
Personally I prefer it being a separate thing since if I want to see what he's doing then I'm forced to listen to an ad I don't want to listen to.
If it's separate I can just skip forward.
@@AntiViGames I guess you could mute it and just watch the build. That way Bob gets the watch time and the sponsor is happier, and you don't have to listen to the ad... win-win? Although Bob's ads are about the least obnoxious on CZcams, so I don't mind watching them.
@@AntiViGamesThe add is where I remember to take the time to like the video and usually make an early impression comment. If viewers want to watch great content, tolerating a few minutes of adds from the creator during a video is a small price to pay.
Can you make that fit into a flat 12x 78 box? 😂❤
melamin chips way less if you do a scoring pass first. many tracksaws have a feature for that. basically, set your saw to a very shallow cut, so the top side of the melamin gets cut at a steeper angle, making it less likely to tear out.
professional saws for melamin have a scoring blade on it, that cuts in the opposite direction, to pretty much get rid of tearout. Festool very recently even released a tracksaw that has a scoring blade that works lovely. it is pricy, but if you do a lot of melamin work, its worth it.
I was about to say the same thing!
painter's tape helps with chipping on drilling
A couple tips for cleanly cutting and drilling melamine; for cutting on a table saw, use a high tooth count, sharp blade and make a short pass into the bottom side of the material before cutting all the way through. For cutting on a miter saw, I've found that using a knife to cut through the melamine layer first pretty much eliminates the chipout. For drilling, I start a little slower, mostly letting the drill do the work until i'm through the melamine. You can also use masking tape or zero-clearance jigs to help with any of these issues as well.
Painter's tape is also an option. It is so weird that the little bit of adhesive and paper is enough to help with most chipout, but a sharp blade is a must.
@@tiffanysandmeier4753 It really is kinda crazy. The first time someone suggested it I thought they were messing with me
I agree with your comments about the tools. I made quite a bit of furniture with a handsaw, nails, hammer and sandpaper. I was married probably 5 years before I could afford a circular saw and a hammer. We still have every piece of furniture that I made and it held up 40+ years.
Sharpie doesn't really look like black. It has more of a dark purple tint to it. We used Mohawk stain pens at the furniture retailer I worked for. They cost a lot more but are worth it if you are doing a lot of projects.
The inside holes aren't going to be as noticeable but I would definitely get something like the stain pens for other blemishes..
True, plus Sharpies are dye-based. They'll fade in all sorts of weird ways. Stain, paint, or a bunch of little black plastic pegs to hide the unused holes are the way to go.
Great job, I love the economics of saving $200 to store $5k in lego😂. I have similar problems😅
Same here! Now he has 200 more to buy legos
If you put some masking tape over the partical board where you're cutting/drilling, it will decrease the amount of chipping
Apparently, scoring also helps.
just use a proper sawblade. i recommend festool. there is no chipping with a sharp festool blade
As a programmer that predominately writes things in C, I completely agree about the cost of tools. Over time you build up your collection of tools until you have a complete workshop and over that period of time you'll do more and more projects. The cost is very much distributed across every project you do. In my case I write a lot of my own tools and the cost is my time, which has some value to me and a significant amount more to my clients.
The one complaint I have with this project is the materials. Melamine coated MDF is basically glue and saw dust wrapped in plastic. All the stores around me show a price of around $40-ish per 4'x8' sheet, and for a few bucks more per sheet you can get hardwood plywood in a 1/2 inch thickness. While it would push the cost over the melamine coated MDF, I would also splurge for the glass. And stain instead of black paint would also look better.
Bro loves inhaling saw dust and taking hearing damage fr fr 💯 😅😅👆
Great idea on the 3D printed retaining clip!
Thanks! They worked really well.
Should also 3D print some small black pegs to put in all the unused shelf pin holes, looks bad as is
Just did almost the same thing here, in fact today is final sanding and paint day. 3 "billy-bobs" (that's what I will call the home made ones). MUCH better materials (cabinet grade birch ply, poplar face frames). Not cheaper than normal Billy's but definitely much better! Thanks for sharing Bob!
I think we need to canonize that name for diy Billy bookshelves! Lol Billy-bobs for the win!
@@SeanMatherI second this!! I'll make my own billy bob and pass the name along to others!
Some people never understand that there's not only the satisfaction of building something yourself, but there's also the option of changing it exactly to your liking. Especially in those edge case situations, that's worth all your tools' weight in gold, because you just can't get what you need from a store, and having it custom made is probably more expensive than all your tools combined.
Sure, if you build _exactly_ the same as what you can buy, you have to start wondering if it's worth it. If you enjoy it though, that's enough reason to do it. Other people pay to do the things they like, creators can actually save money doing what they like.
If you exclude the doors, you can build this with a drill and and a tape meassure. Most hardware stores (at least in germany) will cut you your wood to the asked dimensions. For the doors you could use a router. Tablesaws are expensive (and scary) for beginners.
If you're doing something like this you should check with a local glass supplier (not a big box store), or even on-line glass companies. When I made my 3D printer cabinet I bought large (something like 24x34, might be larger) custom cut panes of tempered glass for way less (like less than half) than plexiglass. Maybe the market is different where Bob is but I've always found that plexiglass is considerably more expensive when compared to real glass (at least if you look in the right places). Plus, plexi scratches if you look at it wrong... glass is way more robust, especially for something like a display cabinet where you want a clear view.
Awesome build, another good thing to keep in mind with melamine is it's edges are super sharp.i used to work at a lumber yard and we always made sure to wear gloves when moving big sheets around since its slippery and the edges are like razor blades when freshly cut
Going by your face during the tablesaw cuts, not only in this video, you should build a boom arm with a bladeguard including dust collection. Mask or not, this should help a lot.
Perhaps you could paint the holes for the shelves black as well, so they're not as noticeable. I guess one way you could do that is to put down some butcher block paper, and secure it down with strips of masking tape. The masking tape should be in lines where the dowel jig is going to go. Then you cut the dowel holes through the masking tape, spray black paint, and voila.
FYI the black stuff on the board that likes to chip out _is_ the melamine. The boards you're using are properly called "melamine faced particle board".
I have a Billy bookcase and while assembling it thought "I could make this" lol... Home Depot has pre-drilled meline shelving too
I love that the algorithm-focused titles of these types of videos assume that your time isn't valuable at all and that the tools are free. I wish the creators didn't have to do that to maintain relevancy within youtube. The expertise and knowledge in this video is fantastic sans clickbait.
I found as well if you apply some painter tape (paper tape) over the holes you want to drill, it helps quite a lot with the chipping problem.
Bob, this was a really good project video. Being a professional cabinetmaker this a great way for a DIYer to get all the benefits without the added costs. Great job!
Particle board sawdust is specially bad for your lungs as it contains glues, use a respiratory mask when handling those cuts :)
That's really good to know. I wouldn't use particle board unless absolutely necessary.
Bob said that.
For people who complain about the tools, you can make money-saving projects from just a few cheap tools in invest your saved money on more tools and work your way up.
I did and express version of this by saving over $2,000 installing my own kitchen cabinets with a few very basic tools. That paid for all the tools I use on projects after that.
Building furniture may occur at a far lower frequency than cooking but one could make the same argument that you can always almost order a single meal (or maybe even a few ) at a restaurant for less than it would cost you to buy all the kitchen equipment and ingredients and make it yourself. Most of us however think it is perfectly reasonable to invest in kitchen equipment where the cost is distributed across a long time. Making things is really no different. If you think you're only going to do it once then sure, the cost might not make sense but if it's going to become a lifelong pursuit, even if only a few times a year then it's totally worth it. Plus you have to decide how you want to value the feeling of accomplishment and the fact that when you need something, you now have choices that extend beyond choosing which pre-manufactured retailer you want to purchase from.
Nice to see Jimmy's ghost pop in to say hi at 14:34! Great project Bob!
Perfect opportunity to use the pocket hole jig to drill dowel holes with a normal/long drill bit. Also I loved your RBF without your mask during the Factor ad. Glad you mentioned it.
Instead of using a Sharpie that can leave a sort of iridescence, use an india ink art marker. We used those in a frame shop I worked at to touch up black frames. It dries fairly matte and without that purple tint.
Hey! Love you videos! Instead of using a Sharpie to cover up small spaces of blow out, (it tends to have a purple-ish sheen) use a black whiteboard marker. It works a charm for all those little blowouts. :)
And if your black whiteboard marker turns out purple too, like mine, just mix some rubbing alcohol into the charred bones of your enemies. Wipe it into the cracks with your fingers while chanting "kali maa shakti de", repeatedly until poof, the gaping hole in your captive's chest cavity bursts into flames and those pesky chips in your Billy shelf clone's melamine vanish along with his still beating heart.
@sklikizos lol. Someone called this the Billy Bob. Sounds completely redneck, but it has both the original name and the creator, so I like it.
Your videos always bring enjoyment. Thanks for your creativity! 🥳👏
Very nice, lots of good tips to create my own (in a smaller scale) for my home container! Thanks for sharing!
Good stuff! Thanks Ya'll!
Excited to see where life takes you Bob! Hearing that you're making adjustments to make you and your family happier is inspiring. Like david said, bigger better Bob. Or at least clear headed and happy? Haha
This is a awesome build! Pro tip from a tinner here, when needing to remove sharpie from most solid surfaces, metal, kitchen counters, melamine etc. Wet on wet technique is essential. Directly trace old sharpie with new line and wipe off while still wet. Works like a charm!
Love the "Gluey" glue bottle. 😂 I see that you are a man of taste!
Have you tried putting masking/painters tape on top of the melamine before cutting or drilling? I've used it with worktop surfaces that are similar and it avoids the chipout. For doors that lack substantial bulk I'd be tempted to add a couple of small magnets on the handle side to keep them in place. That way they close more firmly, useful if you don't expect to open it that often since it will help avoid gaps at the top/sides where dust can get in.
Gotta love the security squint! 3:49
Good to see a real practical build.
Pocket dowels. Use a regular drill bit in your pocket hole jig. Pound in dowels with glue. Cut flush. The different color wood from the dowel adds a little style.
Three tricks I learned from a cabinet maker for pocket holes in particle board is to dowel it as well, for the alignment mostly in that case but still for strength, set your drill depth a heavy 1/32” or 1/16” shallow, and use a drill driver to drive the screws. It’s a better way to ensure you don’t blowout the hole and impacts tend to over tighten pocket holes
Hey Bob, just wanted to say good luck with the changes going on. I always enjoy your content and podcasts. Best Wishes- Pip
You did a great job on that cabinet. Very well done.
Wanted a storage unit for my new office (wardrobe sized) - drew it in SketchUp and priced up the materials. Ikea version was exactly the same price, without needing to finish it with a durable paint. Melamine version would have been way more money. Saved hours of work so that's what I went for. Every time I look at it however, I know mine would have been better quality.....
It is the trade-off.
I noticed you used a laundry style iron for your stripping. Might I suggest you invest in a hobbyists' iron. It's used to put radio control planes outer wing covering on. It's smaller (so it's more maneuverable, to get into tight corners) and has an adjustable heat setting system so you won't burn the stripping material. Get a good one with a wooden handle, not plastic, and it should last for decades being used for projects like this.
oh yeah, I've seen those! Thanks for the recommendation!
Looks great Bob!
The only time I used pocket holes on particle board it was edge banded with the thick, 2mm ABS stuff. I had no problems with it. It was also the only time I chose particle board deliberately. I had it cut and banded at the local Hobby woodworking place, so I didn't have to deal with the dust. The visible edge needed to be durable, and I just had them band it all-around to keep the formaldehyde smell in as well.
If you have a scrap piece of peg board laying around you can make a great jig for drilling the pin holes for a shelf.
Anything that splinters or cracks easily on the surface, always reverse drill first before drilling in the right direction.
On stuff like the melamin boards, tape the location where you drill with painters tape. that really helps with the tear out
2:24 You’re absolutely right about not needing the best tools to complete the job. I honestly believe starting with mostly hand tools and only using that for a while can make a better carpenter than someone who has thousands of dollars of tools but doesn’t know how to use them properly. I’ve built a lot of furniture back in the day with just a hand saw and a cheap drill.
100%. i renovated the first room in my house with a cheap circular saw i got on sale at HD, a hand me down cordless drill and a drywall square w/utility knife.
I usually start inexpensive, something rated pretty decently for the price category. sometimes the second cheapest tool I find. If I use it enough to wear it out then it's probably worth upgrading.
2:12 Honestly, as someone who's used a circular saw in an apartment a few times, almost more important than the tools is having a shop. But yeah, tools are an investment, but even without all the tools or the space it's still possible to make stuff, just might take longer or not look as perfect
Built two book shelves the same way. Came out great and saved about $270. Plus, I like to build stuff too! Love the look of the black with the big doors.
Great build once again! Melamine can be a pain to work with, especially for the chipout and the sharp edges that will cut your hands... well done!
When drilling into the melamine have you tried reverse drilling? I use it to drill into tile. Start by reverse drilling to create a punch, then forward drill to pass. It’s helped me out a few times.
I'm a soon-to-be homeowner for the first time, so the timing on this video is spot on! Haha. (Although, I've been watching your channel for years now). Nice one
Any tips on how you'd color the inside of the (empty) pin holes, so they're not as visible against the dark color of the material? Some sort of light sanding of the exposed particle + regular paint?
I'm thinking cover the area with masking tape before drilling the holes, and then use a little brush with paint to colour inside of them before removing the tape
You have a knack for coming out with videos about the things I just purchased a week prior XD. Great work though!
Hey, Bob. What do you use for your cut lists? I've tried a bunch of cut list calculators from different websites, but they aren't that great. I was wondering if you had a recommendation. Thanks!
Love the video how did you integrate the lights into the bookcase without showing wires
Can I ask you how long this took in total? I'm not planning to do it right now and I imagine I'd take at least 50% longer given my inexperience, but it'd be nice to know if this would take a weekend or take a month or evenings when deciding whether to try it.
Also, on the tools thing, I really appreciate that you often point out where your more expensive tools like the Miter and table saws can be replaced by less expensive options like a circular saw, provided you're more careful and take your time. There's also plenty of places for renting the more expensive tools, at least in the places I've been in in the US. The local library has cordless drills and a laser cutter to use, there's a maker space that has tools included with a $75 a month subscription near me, and Home Depot will let you rent a Miter saw for $25 a day. I know that some or all of those options aren't available to everyone for a variety of reasons, but it's nice that there are ways to do one off projects without needing to make your own workshop
I would believe that with a second person assisting with assembly, it would be a weekend project.
Just note that IKEA particle board is not regular. It's specifically engineered for the parts, and has gaps and cardboard sections on the inside, to reduce weight and cost.
Talking about the cost of tools. I know a lot of people bash it, but the best thing I've found is buy the cheap version of the tool at harbor freight, if you use it often enough that it breaks or shows signs of wear, buy the expensive version, if not the cheap version will do just fine for what you need. Don't need $20,000 worth of tools if you only use them once every 6 months and only spent $100 on it.
If I were to make a shelving unit this size, I would make a 1x2 frame and skin it with hardboard inside and out and paint the whole thing. It would give the solid appearance and not hold as much weight, but it would be vastly cheaper, and for just a display case, it should work just fine as long as you don't overload it.
Awesome build!
Thanks!
You can also rent most tools and get large pieces of wood precut if buying isn’t an option for you at the moment or if you’re not sure if projects like these are your cup of tea
Was the hard board strong enough to support the batwing or did you need to add more ? I use modified garage shelves for my displays and have been thinking about mounting my batwing instead of using the stand.
Nice remake, Bob~! I don't work with melamine much, but was wondering... When drilling your shelf pin holes, would running a strip of tape along the line of where the holes are going minimize chip-out? I've used tape when using my Skilsaw the few times I've cut down melamine pieces, but have never tried it when drilling holes. Thanks for the project~!
Saturday mornings with Bob - yay!!
Oddly, the billy bookcase that size in the uk is the equivalent of $450 and the backs are hardboard. I thought ikea furniture was identical worldwide, clearly not so!
Beautiful project I need to buy the Alex drawer set from IKEA and they don't ship that specific item to my area. If you could do that one next I'd buy those plans for sure!
Nice build
Those are some pretty awesome Lego sets Bob! I've been thinking about making something similar for some of the sets I have built over the years!
IKEA seems to be in a race to the bottom on the quality of the panels they make their stuff from - thinner, less dense, generally crappier. It - used - to be quite good quality, in some parts of Europe people rent bare apartments and are expected to provide even the kitchen cupboards and fixed appliances - IKEA kitchens used to be able to be dis assembled and moved to a new place at least 3-4 times without needing to replace major parts. Now you are lucky to get the things together, out of the box without some panels having failures around the fastening holes, corners and grooves, let alone being able to take them apart and re assemble them. Look at the descriptions - the panel coverings are now listed as 'foil', not Melamine, and there is a definite difference. Of course, this was when IKEA made their stuff largely in Europe rather than 'off shoring' it to some small Asian country where labour and environmental standards don't apply. I still buy stuff from IKEA, but its increasingly metal and plastic items, not wood related products.
would painter's tape on the drilling/cutting surface help prevent chipout of the chipboard?
The Gluey bottle is top notch, well done
There's one aspect is that I can bring the Ikea version home in a small Toyota Corolla or similar "commuter car", as there's no 4x8 sheets that go on my roof that you hope don't rip off on the drive home
Great video again as always. And I wish Factor was in my country...
if you run the drill bit on the shelf pin jig backwards first it will eliminate that blowout
I would use roo glue, used it years ago when assembling cabinets in the shops I worked.
That Lego Batwing in the back of the case though......💥er ❤
When sawing or drilling into Melamine or formica use low tack tape and drill/saw through that. It cuts down on blowout and chipping dramatically.
This is exactly what I needed rn! My partner just moved and he plans to get a new bookshelf just as big! We can make it instead!
Did something similar recently on my channel with a desk and I don’t have fancy tools! Grateful for what I do have. You can do it too 😁
Edge banding before assembly is easier to clean all ends and edges. I personally prefer billy doors because opening them does not require much space. I have a double wide and a single wide billy bookcases, both with glass doors. Billy book case is kinda expensive mostly due to the glass doors. Case only is not a lot.
Liatorp bookcase with glass doors is so much nicer. I have a pair of white and a pair of grey ones.
as wonderful as it is you could have also made to bench like cupboards and sit them on top of each other by adding 1 extra sheet of wood that way in the future you could split to two to ground level which then would great a long bench top for more display items
I might have to make something like this for myself in the future for my legos and I noticed you hadd those door hinges how would you restore those cause I have some just like that that are years old probably older than me
Hi Bob. Great project. I love the AR stuff with your 3d models youve been doing. Are you able to share how thats done. Thanks. Keep up the awesome content.
Thanks! Check this www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/how-to-view-your-fusion-360-designs-in-ar-with-usdz-file-format/
If this is a one-off thing -- that is, you're only ever going to build a single Billy-like thing -- then time and materials don't make it worthwhile. But if you embrace this as a learning experience for future projects, then it becomes very valuable.
Great work and good savings 💯💯💯👍
Poster board behind batwing. Dark blue or something to stand it out subtly. Cloudy night sky.
"i couldn't find my mask" made me think "you should build something fancy to keep your safety equipment at reach"
Where'd you get the display lights from? Thinking of finally making a display case for some of my lego models 😅
What kind of screws should I use for wood fence?
use tape, do scoring cuts, use a proper blade for melamine, or at least set the height correctly, this will prevent most of the chipping, it is a bit finicky, but it's worth it in the end.
I like how you do ads for your sponsors. Most of the CZcams content I consume is similar to yours. I wish others would keep the content going during the ad.
I don't know if this will work for melamine but when I used to cut wood with a veneer if I put down masking tape first over where I was going to cut it would stop chip out.
Ikea sells the hardware to join boards very cheaply. Good alternative to pocket holes.