The People Who Give Everest a Bad Name
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2023
- Nils Antenzana opened his eyes on May 18th 2004 in his small tent at 8,000 meters on Mount Everest’s camp 4. His breathing was labored as he had been sleeping for the last few hours in the death zone, one of the few places on our planet that is void of any life, and is literally killing the cells in your body the second you decide to climb this high. Nils did not know that this would be his final time ever waking from his sleep.
He was 69 years old and attempting to become the oldest climber to ever reach the roof of the world. His guide Lisi Gustavo was waking up beside him. Together the pair had been preparing for this day for months, but for Nils, it had been an entire lifetime. It was summit day….This is their story.
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Sherpas should be given veto power over whether and when climbers turn around, and it should be enforced via contract and even a monetary penalty. It’s unfathomable that anyone would fight a Sherpa about going higher on a mountain when they’re too weak to make it.
It won't matter as climbers would just tell the sherpas to leave them behind and sherpas can't really do anything about it. And from what I gathered sherpas most of the time would go beyond from what they were hired for. I bet most of them would still help the climbers even if it is against their better judgement.
If i were an expedition leader i would tell my climbers that the sherpas are instructed to leave them behind when they ignore the order to go down.
Sherpas should have guns!
It's summit fever and unfair/impractical to put the responsibility on the Sherpas - they can only advise and, at those altitudes the energy required to physically force the client to turn around would put both of their lives at risk.
@@biglebowski5737and dumb authoritarians should run the world
I like watching videos of mount Everest safely tucked in my warm bed with adequate oxygen in the air
The only danger is Dutch ovening yourself
Yessss ❤
The Sherpas continue to prove that they are the best of anyone on the mountains professionally and as human beings with a soul unlike the walking Dead with crampons
Nobody or their family should be expecting anyone else to rescue a climber in trouble in the death zone . It’s the climber’s and climbers sole responsibility and nobody else should be forced to rescue someone else in their ego trip that went wrong
No one has the right to put other people’s lives in danger because of their own ill-advised decisions.
I feel sorry for the Sherpas. They were put into a bad situation.
Imagine climbing in an extremely remote area then having to stand in line.....
So many climbers make it to the top, only to die on the way down, after "living their dream". RIP Nils
Yes, and both these videos and articles about this make quite clear.
Yet people decide to do this instead of actually learning mountaineering run right to this , pay up to $100,000 bucks before they try a an easier mountain for their ego.
And then blame poor people for taking their money.
@@christystewart4567and leave young children behind in their ego quest
I think more people die mountaineering on the way down.
Another one ignoring solid, life saving advice. I wonder what Nils would think of a patient who ignored his knowledgable and experienced medical advice out of ego and hubris.
When it got to the point of Gustavo betraying him, I couldn't watch anymore.
I made it to about 07:30....wondering if I want to watch the rest.
Yes! I just made a similar comment. Agree 💯.
Summit fever.
Maybe he was ready to die, and was happy to bring it on if he could get up there once. If so, he was brilliant. If not, an idiot.
Brain edema makes even the smartest people make terrible decisions.
😮😮What so many people don’t realize is that sherpas are biologically better prepared to live on less on oxygen but even sherpas can die on the mountain.
Hey, hey, hey! 69 and gonna climb Mt. Everest today! Is it just me or should people start calling BS on these climbers, putting their feet down and saying "No!"
Why? They know the risks.....
@@biglebowski5737 Because their ego isn't above deflating when they fail to realize their betters need be minded. Perhaps fees need to be doubled with 1/2 returned when the live mountaineer returns to Kathmandu.
@@biglebowski5737bc they take people down with them and pollute the place with bodies and shit
None of them give Everest a bad name. These so-called "climbers", the team leaders, and Nepalese officials all give themselves a bad name. It's like herding sheep. Remember 1996? Wait 'til one of those monster storms hits Everest when there 300-400 sheep up there.
How about that lady with a pacemaker trying to scale the mountian and didnt make it past basecamp and ended up dying from the mountain. She ignored everyone telling her to leave or she will die, so she died.
I swear, that was just suicide with extra steps...
As I said in another video on her......
If it takes you 5 hours to do what the average person in that circumstance would do in 30 minutes, you really need to rethink your decisions.
@@Akapaco2Perhaps so…..
Gustavo is clearly an immoral character and should not have been guiding anyone. Nils Antezana had SEVERAL signs that he shouldn't even begin this climb. He couldn't even keep Gustavo within eyesight enroute to base and he had lost 16lbs before he began (Gustavo is dead wrong for going so far ahead of his client). I dont think Nils wanted to end his life as he had researched meds to possibly help him in the death zone, but his persistence to continue tells me part of him was ok if this was the end. His desire for Everest by far exceeded his ability at that time. Same for 59yr old Suzanne Leopoldina with a pacemaker and little experience who also shared this dream. It's really a shame. Nils sounded like a wonderful and generous individual, but maybe all the years devoted to the medical profession left him feeling the need for adventure. This video certainly suggests that.
Possibly some people go to everest knowing that they wont survive cause they already have health problems that will kill them. If I got diagnosed with untreatable cancer I would take the trip, climb the mountain and then find a place with a view to sit down and die at. As far as death goes hypoxia / freezing to death isn't the worst way to go.
@@BType13X2 good point. i think i might be able to make it up there, but no way i'd make it down. if i ever get cancer and ca afford to go, thats my new choice of MAID (mountain assist in dying lol)
@somethingsomething404 Kinda of a crappy/selfish thing to do since that'd be worse than going up there and dumping a bunch of trash
I've had upper respiratory infections before and I cannot imagine climbing a mountain- let along Everest- with one. What the heck. Did he have a death wish?
In my opinion, most of them do. Their desire to summit is like bugs to a bug zapper.
like a moth to a flame @@bcamplite621
Nature has some built in Darwin Awards, such as underwater cave exploring. Everest and other mountains are prestigious ones, but are no less deadly for those unprepared, uneducated, or simply unlucky.
Well said, daminox😂
Gustavo is a real piece of work isn't he.
He saved himself? Should he have?
@@christystewart4567 Gustavo had never summited Everest before this expedition and cared more about getting to the top than for taking care of his Client. Should he have saved himself? Yes. But should he have been employed as a guide in the first place? As strong as I can state this in the english language NO. He was a liar, and a con artist. His previous attempts at getting to the summit ended in him stealing a photo and falsely claiming the feat. He should have never been a guide and he had no business trying to summit himself if he was struggling that much.
@@christystewart4567 He shouldn't have been a guide in the first place. Gustavo is a poopy head.
@@BType13X2 Even though all the bad things you say about Gustavo are probably true, at the crucial moment it didn't matter. Nils had two sherpas accompanying him down from the summit, and even these competent professionals couldn't get Nils to keep descending after the balcony. If they couldn't do it, Gustavo couldn't have helped, either. Why didn't Nils continue descending? Was it HACE? Or was it simply exhaustion? We'll never know, for all we know for sure is that the sherpas made sure that Nils had everything they could give him.
@@JustMe-vn5pq That's not the point at all a guide is responsible for turning you around before you get yourself into that sort of trouble. Gustavo had never been to the top of the mountain that mattered to him more than Nils life did. The man was a fucking con artist who took Nils money and lead him to his death. The reason why he didn't turn Nils around was because he would have to go down with him costing him the summit that he didn't have yet.
These videos are addictive viewing. Thank you.
They properly reflect how dangerous Everest really is.
12:51 is an exceptional image. I don't believe I've ever seen Everest from that viewpoint. It really does put her into perspective.
Yes, it's beautiful and striking. However, I believe that the image shown at 11:45 is a picture of another mountain, maybe even taken in another country -- though it's also beautiful.
This is the Matterhorn, in the Swiss Alps. Everest itself is hiding in a sea of mountains.
Next year I will be the first man to summit Everest naked, nothing will stop me, next I will summit K2 climbing backwards with a mirror. It will be easy.
I walked through death valley naked😊
Id love to watch this … such a unique approach
Take pictures 😂
Good vid.
The doctor knew better. He was in no condition to go to camp 3 let alone 4.
Had he turned around he may have survived. Being a doctor he knew everything he needed to know to make the right decisions. You can only assume the summit meant more to him than life.
Eventually one of his high risk activities would kill him. Maybe he just wanted to die with his boots on and not slowly die in a hospital bed. I can understand this. Or was he naive enough, lying to himself about how this had to end? Death always walks beside us, make no mistake of that.
What not to do on Everest: Attempt a climb at 59 with little experience and without oxygen. It usually takes champion athletes with specialized high altitude training to summit Everest without oxygen.
People who delude themselves about such requirements are doomed.
Yes, the decision to get to Camp IV without oxygen may have been responsible for his death. Apparently, it's around 5 times as hard to summit a Himalayan giant if you try to do it without oxygen. Getting up to Camp IV without oxygen may have depleted his energy too much to then make it to the summit and back down to Camp IV.
69
Even more frightening than dying on Everest? A doctor practicing in a country where he does not even speak the language.
And Nils wanting Gustavo to be his Everest partner because he (Gustavo) was a “native speaker” sounds weird. I don’t think Spanish is used that widely in Nepal.
@@Peeta-wn4hh I think he meant native speaking for Nils. So even after all his time in the US he still didn't feel comfortable enough with English so hired someone he really barely knew just because they could speak the same language.
That happens more than you think. I had a doctor that was assigned to me by my insurance as my primary care physician. His English was subpar at best and we were in an English speaking country. I had some complex medical issues going on and he understood next to nothing when I tried to discuss it with him. After a few appointments I had to tell my insurance to change my doctor.
I have had foreign doctors that were brilliant and could communicate on a medical level. Sadly, a few times I got one that couldn't be more fluent than an introductory conversational level which made me wonder how they were practicing medicine.
If that scares you then don't ever, ever come to Australia 😂 Haven't had a doctor who speaks English in maybe 20 years. Probably longer.
I hope Nil's wife made sure that he had his will typed and signed once she found out about his climbing hobby.
Along with a lot of life insurance 💸💸
@@Smokey66sas someone who does a bit of climbing, I can tell you that if you die mountaineering, your family isn’t getting a penny from the life insurance company.
sounds like nils was a liberal even when faced with truth and facts he still chose poorly
@@JamesWoodring-mu2izwhy are you bringing politics into something completely unrelated? people that do that are super annoying.
@@Mt.Everest. no, actually. people that do that are just genuinely quite annoying.
The death zone is absolutely no joke. Just turn around fight another day. The place is covered with bad choices.
I think I’m just fine staying at sea level
People live such comfortable lives that they think they're literally immortal and that a little hike couldn't possibly hurt.
"No pain no gain"
Excatly. I think these people are hollow inside and they do anything to feel "alive". What comes to Everest they put others in danger act like 💩heads when true professionals (sherpas) give advices "I DO WHAT I WANT" 😤
It seems more fatalities happen on the way down. After the strong will propelled ill prepared climbers to the summit, there isn’t much left to keep them descending.
Nils wasn't prepared to climb down the mountain. They never are.
The questions I would ask of a guide include: How many times have you been a guide on Everest expeditions? How many expeditions have you led? How many clients were on those expeditions, and how many returned alive? Are you determined to reach the summit yourself? What is more important to you for your clients - summitting or safe return?
And for clients: what mountaineering experience do you have? Do you have medical clearance? Will you follow orders even if you don't want to?
The climbers will just lie or do the opposite once in the field. I'm a medic for SAR and see it constantly.
They can climb up or down solo if they argue with or ignore the Sherpa or expedition leader
@@ladyweasellou3367 The clients will lie the bigger problem is Gustavo lied, he had never summited previously, and made a false summit claim after stealing someone elses photo. He had no business guiding and used Nil's money to make his own attempt.
This is what happens when you have a bulky bank account and a lot of free time, people find new ways to die.
Some people save for years to do it so no, you’re wrong
Nills was ill before the climb soooo what ya gonna do???
Oh I'll climb up everest 😢😢😢
Have you read High Crimes by Michael Kodas? This story is mentioned in the book.
I remember struggling on a not terribly difficult hike. I had just retired from college rugby but still a flat lander. I just got ungraded from exercise induced asthma to allergic asthma. They haven’t been able to control the asthma at all. So I’m constantly sleepy. Doc knew better. I love my adrenaline but you have to care about your loved ones enough to not be an ass. Sherpas need veto power everyone will need to be checked for proper equipment including the porters. You can’t trust people. Someone else having issues is literally a safety issue.
Whatever you take up that mountain should be MANDATORY you take back down. EVEN YOUR DED FRIEND! that place is treated like a burial ground AND trash can at the same time, and its disgusting the amount of trash there. These climbers have NO respect for ANYONE OR ANYTHING. Its sickening because they've destroyed every mountain they climbed. It should be banned completely just because of the selfishness of leaving their expired oxygen tanks EVERYWHERE
Another great video i love the Everest ones and you truly do say some inspirational things in your videos.
Mountains take my breath away.
I surely want to climb in the future
But no way ever I will dare to try any of the 8k',
or some other too dangerous once
Just do it dude, Everest is calling. You could be the first one barefoot up there......
A person isn’t playing with a full deck of cards if they think climbing Everest is a good idea. That’s what gives it a bad name.
I personally would much rather climb one of the other 8000 meter peaks. Cho Oyu is supposed to be the easiest. Why? Because of all the dead bodies which litter the slopes of Everest. Half the joy of climbing is in the scenery, so if the scenery is gruesome and disgusting...
@@JustMe-vn5pq good point. Climbing Everest is just creepy anymore.
You can blame a lot of people but if you venture into a place called the death zone I think it is all on you
I’m new to your channel and I love it so I’ll be binge watching. Your voice is soothing and maybe you should do audio books 😅
This( Gustavo ) was a liar, he made out that he’d summited and done this work a lot before, but he was very unprepared and barely knew how to set up lines and ladders etc
Got himself up and down. Sounds like the other dude was the one unprepared and thought simply having the money would make up for his lack of skill/preparedness
Gustavo was after the Money. He just was walking down the Mountain go to sleep. What a Primitiv Human who did not care!!!! The Sherpas tried everything
Gustavo wanted the summit he had never summited himself prior to this. So he used Nils to get what he wanted and left the man to die.
Gustavo clearly just wanted a free ride
Would Nils have turned round if Gustavo said so? In all these videos I've watched not one of them listened to advice. Sure Gustavo doesn't seem like the best person but Nils has himself to blame as was told by the sherpas not to summit. People don't listen, simple.
Gustavo conned Nils into this fraud with misrepresentation of his abilities and knowledge and experience. He was directly responsible for Nils death and on top of all of it, abandoned Nils close to the top.
Thanks Gelje Sherpa!
Sooooo underrated! Keep doing what you do!
Great story thanks
I don't believe any amount of money entitles you to risk other people's lives. The whole use of Sherpas for money seems morally suspect. But I do find it odd the Sherpas didn't raise the alarm. Weren't they part of an organisation? Why didn't they report back? They did the hard bit, but then didn't just talk to someone. Perhaps they were sick after the effort.
1/3 of the deaths on the moutain are sherpas
Is your introduction music original? It’s very cool :-)
Immoral climbers, who ever heard of such a thing? in your description you say he was trying to be the oldest climber ever, but when he summited he was the second oldest? Does it count as a summit if they don't make it back down? What a tragedy.
I've heard of this Lisi Gustavo on another video. It seems he's been forbidden of entering the surroundings of the Aconcagua due to bad reputation.
Geez - Nils didn't exactly endear himself to anyone.
A problem I have with Everest is a lot of people seem to climb it to fill their own ego, to come back as a hero, a conqueror, just to say they persevered and struggled to climb to the top of the tallest mountain on earth, when in relativity they had barely any experience and did minimal work compared to the sherpas that took them there. It kind of spits in the eye of the experienced mountaineers who actually have a passion for it and want to challenge themselves with a reward and beautiful view, and more experience.
Watched many of your videos, the are in deed compelling. Hope you catch up on your comments. So far I have never heard to mention the RED BLOOD COUNTS, since presume at high altitude assimilation is to aid the count to rise.
Too bad a zipline can't be installed to descend the mountain
Think I’ll just stick with the safe sports like motorcycling or having unprotected sex with random women.
What about the stories of persistent medical conditions after a summit attempt?
Yeah ...100% People seem to think that climbing at altitude is a one-and-done thing. It isn't. It can have serious, long-term affects on the body even for experienced climbers. It's called 'The Death Zone' for a reason.
Disappearing to climb Everest without telling your wife at 69yrs old and then treating everyone there like cr@p once you are there AND being a Doctor but ignoring a respiratory infection while in extreme cold at very high altitude....
I feel bad for the wife and any children. It's sad she was with him for so long that when he died she was never able to experience a happy loving relationship... because you can't tell me a man who acted like that could possibly have been a good spouse. Very possibly abusive i would guess.
Shut the background music off so we can hear the message.
You're a GREAT storyteller but maybe make it clearer that the footage you're showing isn't from the actual incident. Love your vids. Keep em comin' :)
What gave it away? The fugging stock footage? 😂
Exactly. The words ‘stock footage’ are so rare on CZcams. It’s annoying and dishonest.
This happened in 2004. I wonder how anyone can mistake the HD stock footage with actual footage from that time. Should be obvious.
@@GrandTheftChrisThis one was, but previous videos not so much..
@@kyliejones8827right, but they're not commenting on those videos. They're commenting on this one, where only an idiot would think "this MUST be from the expedition!!!!!!!1!1!!1!1"
Thank you for your interesting videos.
I enjoy the measured and rational tone.
While the ultimate responsibility lies with the climber themselves, this darker side of Everest was unknown to me prior to this climbers death. The stories of false Valor, equipment theft. Predatory shakedowns by sherpas, fights & likely murders, It ruined the romance I had previously entertained with Mt Everest.
There's Jerry's on every mountain. Everest seems full of them
So bored people want to fill the voids in their life and think a mountain peak can do that.
Climbers lose finger, toes, noses and even lives but hey they got to the summit, Woohoo. Sorry not worth it IMO.
The title of this video reads, "The People Who Give Everest a Bad Name." That is incorrect. A better title is, "The Climbers Who Litter Everest and Give the Climbing Community Bad Publicity.''
So not even a picture of ANY of this?
U know what gives Everest a bad name? Paying Sherpas 5bux a day then claim that’s a lot of money for a Sherpa! 5bux a day ain’t a lot of money in any country! If I was paid 5 bux a day there’s no way in hell I’m saving anyone
5 bucks a day is a lot of money in some countries. But 5 bucks for sherpas would be very little. Sherpas make more than 5 dollars a day. Porters might make that though.
This is the most frustrating story i have heard in a long time ....fk 😢
He wanted to do it, he did it, why should we care?
Want to go? It is not other peoples responsibility to save you.
As soon as you start feeling tired or get a headache etc time to go back down. I’m my case I won’t be going up at all.
What "not to do when you're on a mountain like Everest?"
How about not being on there at all if you're not sufficiently prepared and fit and if you're full of hubris. All climbers should go up there aware of their own mortality and not expecting to be saved when they ignore advice.
And it's pronounced 'biv-oo-ac' by the way, not "biv-ee-ac." You're welcome.
He reached the summit at 10am?
they should have put nihls into one of those sleeping bag pressure chambers, as have been used in other videos
These poor Sherpas.
They always get the shit end of the stick.
Why is always a 59 or 69 year old doctor?
Just fyi: Nils is pronounced Neels, not Nills.
People should realize this mountain is for the young at heart. Sorry to say that it seems like the older you get the more dangerous it becomes and especially alone and fighting with his guide and sick. Nils was a fool. His wife must have have a very good insurance policy out on her husband as she tells him go with god
stairs to heaven
Try to make the moving pictures relate to what you’re saying.
Newsflash, 69 yr old narcissist dies on Everest.
No offense…. Some people have no business in some places, and though you may have to be an asshole, somebody needs to say NO. Just saying…. My kids like to do stuff but I have to say no.
Frozen to death, before help came, Darling, you give ev'rest a bad name.
Nil's demise rest on Nils, and Nils alone. Simple as that.
Oh man
I'm sorry for what happened
Gustavo conned him bad . What an aweful excuse of a human being . Scummy . Nils should have listened to the sherpas and fired Gustavo
Lotsa higher percentage activities than that!
Moral of the story… a hardhead will make a jump in the ground.
In the end, the mountain Always wins.
Ward off HIAS? Don’t be at High Altitude??
Why just why? Not worth it. Poor Sherpas
Maybe it's time to stop pretending that these people are accomplishing anything other polluting a pristine environment.
Start shaming these narcissists. Just like they do to people who prefer fossil fuels that actually work for transportation.
It's purely about ego, whenever you're trying to "Be the first....whatever".
The pristine landscape is now a disgusting garbage dump.
Theres no life up there other than the climbers, so who is it hurting anyway?
It’s really a shame that the government who charges climbers at least $3,000 each for trash service on Everest doesn’t provide the trash service that the climbers are paying for. That’s the real issue-government theft. The government should be sued for fraud and breaking contracts. They’re just keeping that money for themselves and not cleaning up the mountain or even giving it to their citizens.
I hope you are joking? I'm sure you know about all the impacts up high.@@bryanbiemans123
@@davidgraham2673 Mallory was the first. Everyone else is just site seeing.
I think it would be great to have emergency chambers in the dead zone that could go into and receive oxygen and warm beverage. It would save lives!
😂😂😂😂😂😂
I hope he had insurance!
The mountains are unfortunately full of these wide eyed flatlanders whose stock is off the hook. The guides are often the same, non-mountain people who spent $ on guide courses but little experience, esp true in USA.
Did he have fun???
Mt. Everest is NOT the tallest mountain in the world. It is the HIGHEST.. two volcanic mountains in Hawaii, Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, are both taller when measured from their base to their summits. Both mountains are over 30,000 ft tall.
Most people use tallest and highest interchangeably. It's not a big deal.
@@mark5071 It is a big deal if you want to get it right. There is a big difference between tallest and highest. People use the terms interchangeably due to ignorance.
@@yourroyalhighness7662 Yes, they are using them interchangeably due to ignorance. But it doesn't affect the conversations they're having, so it doesn't really matter.
@@mark5071If it is two people talking it may not matter so much but when you have a video that is potentially watched by MANY people, it does make a difference.
No sin in telling the guy who said tallest when he should have said highest. If no one lets him know of the error he will continue to make it.
Many years ago, when I learned that Everest was NOT the tallest mountain in the world, it took me a LONG time to accept it but over time I did. Now, I try to let people know when they make the same mistake I did all those years ago.
As my journalism teacher used to tell us, facts matter. Get it right.
@@yourroyalhighness7662But it really doesn't matter.
How is this giving the mountain a bad name? Lets blame others for his death. Nobody forced him to do anything. It was his choice. Everyone knows the danger. Nobody wants to take responsibility these days.
For the algorithm
i wannA push people off
Sherpas are subhuman creatures like horses or mules.