Installing A Grab Bar in a Fiberglass Shower. *Grab Bar not Included*
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- How to install a grab bar into a fiberglass shower.
Installing a grab bar into a fiberglass shower can be tricky, if not outright dangerous, if not done safely and correctly. Fiberglass walls have no structural or stable support. Not only will the fiberglass shower or tub walls flex when pushed, but they also can crack and break over time from continual pushing or pulling. This video will teach you how to install your grab bar using the only mounting bracket designed and explicitly patented for Fiberglass Showers. The Solid Mount® will be attached to the house’s framing, giving you a grab bar that is safe and secure to hold on to every time you take a shower. The Solid Mount® will provide you with a safe and secure shower or bathing experience.
Grab Bar not Included Scroll to the bottom for links for grab bars and other bathroom safety items.
Here are some key points in this video that can help you.
0:00 Intro
0:26 Prep
0:53 Finding the Studs behind the Fiberglass Enclosure
1:29 Where to Install the Grab Bar and Mark the Center of the Stud
2:41 Marking the First Location for The Solid Mount®
3:49 Drilling the First hole for The Solid Mount®
5:50 Installing the First Threaded Shaft in the Stud
7:02 Installing the First Solid Mount® Mounting Plate
7:38 Marking the Second Location for The Solid Mount®
8:33 Drilling the Second hole for The Solid Mount®
9:33 Installing the Second Threaded Shaft in the Stud
10:17 Installing the Second Solid Mount® Mounting Plate
10:44 Installing the Grab Bar to The Solid Mount®
12:50 Final Chaulking and Finished Installation
13:47 Thank you and Credits
For questions about different applications go to our Support Portal Here thesolidmount.com/problem-sol...
Suggested Tools List
Painter’s tape
Pencil, Marker, or Pen
Stud finder
Level
Tape Measure
Drill and Drill Bits - 1/8”, 3/16”, and 2” Hole Saw
Hacksaw with fine tooth blade (18t - 24t suggested)
Ratchet or Impact
1/2” Socket and Extension
Silicone Caulking (white Preferred)
Phillips Screwdriver
thesolidmount.com/store/
*This video is the only manufactured approved video for The Solid Mount®.*
These are affiliate links to Amazon for Grab bars or other bathroom safety items. We do get a commission on these items but You DO NOT pay anything extra it just helps us make some Christmas Money for our 6 grandchildren.
Thank you for your support.
These grab bars all have a 3" flange/cover and are 1.25" Diameter bar.
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Offset Hinges to Widen a Doorway
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Shower Chair
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Bathtub/Shower Bench (Reversible)
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Great product and great instructions.
Although the system is not intended to have the grab bar covers completely covering the mounting plate, you can have this flush result if you are very careful. Make sure that the distance between the lag bolt assemblies is as close to perfect as possible. Then dry fit (no silicon yet) the mounting plates and place the grab bar flanges against the mounting plates. Mark any plate material that is not completely covered by the flange and make a mark at the top for orientation purposes. Remove the mounting plates and sand/shave off the marked material. If your spacing is accurate, there should be very little material that needs to be removed. Add silicon around the hole and reinstall the mounting plates to the previous orientation. Before install the grab bar screws, make sure both flanges are properly centered on the mounting plates.
Thanks for the comment.
Great tip. I stole your idea and it came out perfect
I am going to install my mother's grab bar on her fiberglass tubs. Thanks so much for a CLEAR instruction video. I wrote step by step instructions on that you've shared. I thought I needed a longer drill and I have avoided doing this project. It's moved to the top of the list now because of your instruction. THANK YOU its still adding value. I appreciate you doing this video.
Thank you
I just installed the solid mount system in our fiberglass shower. Once installed the grab bar is solid. So solid that it's never going to come off that wall. It creates some great support getting in and out of the shower. The instructions with the product and this video were very clear on how to install it. And I followed every instruction and tip in the video. The only problem I ran into was there was no sheetrock behind the shower tub enclosure. Didn't know that until after I had drilled a 2-in hole. The distance from the shower wall to the stud was 5/8 of an inch. So I needed to use a hacksaw to cut off a quarter inch on the disc and a quarter inch on the threads. This quarter inch cut off was in addition to the four spacers that already had come off. Once I did that it installed perfectly. So thank you very much for this product and for the helpful video to get it installed.
Thank you
Back in 2019 I wanted to install these for my mother. There were no good videos on the process. Thanks for posting this. Going to do it this year.
Glad to hear we could help. It is our goal to help make other people's lives more independent and safer.
So glad I watched this before installing our grab bar. Now I will know it's done right. Thank you.
Glad this helped you.
Excellent... Wow you need these at the plumbing shops... You have one hell of an idea here, great problem solver for existing Fiberglass shower or tub needing grab bars ...
Thank you.
Fantastic. You just solved a HUGE problem for me. Thank you!
Glad to hear. Have a blessed day.
You Rock!!!
Exactly what I have been looking for!
Glad you found us. Thank you for iyour support.
I love this and am going to have someone install these!!! Thank you so much
Thank you.
Fabulous video, great explanations!
Many thanks!
Phenomenal customer service! Really nice product. Ordered another set for the other fiberglass shower stall in the house. Glad I came across this video/ product.
Thank you for your kind words.
We installed two ADA grab bars on my fiberglass tub surround., using Solid Mounts. We followed your directions, and the job is perfect! Super strong.
Thank you
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you.
Glad you found us here
what a great invention!
Thank you
EXCELLENT instructional video; thanks!
Thank you
Excellent instructions! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I installed a 36" on a 45 degree angle and it is as solid as a rock. This is an incredible device to solve a serious problem installing on fiberglass showers. We are very impressed with the thought put into making this product.
Used this product watched the video and the install was perfect thank you so much Sir ….
Thank you
Bought this mount for my elderly parents to install. Good video going over it. Being the business itself, I wouldn't have ads on this video since it's your own product. It's kind of annoying when you're trying to seek back and forth and constantly getting advertisements on the how to video.
Dan, I wish we could but CZcams makes their money this way.
Great informative video.
Glad it was helpful!
Top Shelf description and directions... installed several dozen similar products in units for a chain of assisted living complex buildings
They did this with Engineers approved also as stop gap until the scheduled bathroom renovations could take place .. just this year we had to do the same on our own home..
Thank you
Great video 😊
Thank you
Great video, thank you so much. 💯
Glad it was helpful!
Craig kudos to you. Bought your product. I live in a mobile home where nothing is universal. But your kit was wonderful. Thanks
Thank you I am glad it worked for you. Did you change the lag bolts for shorter ones so they did not go too far?
@@TheSolidMount yes. We had to cut B,C,D on one. The stress of the project was double checking the studs. But we did it. I will definitely tell everyone about your kit.
@@lisaholtman Thank you
Excellent product. Only warning would be that I bought a Kohler Carmichael 16 inch grab bar. The issue is, the mounting bracket for the grab bar is only 1 and 5/8 inches. As the instructions pointed out and I failed to read, make sure the flange on the grab bar is three inches. I bought a Moen 16 inch replacement bar that was recommended by SolidMount customer service. It worked perfectly and I now have a solid grab bar when I step into the shower.
That's why we suggest a 3" flange.
@@TheSolidMount My bad. I missed that in the description . Found the product and installation excellent!
Thank you glad it all worked out for you
@@TheSolidMountjust got the 16 inch Moen grab bar that you suggested. Has the 3 inch flange with a nice concealment cover over the flange. Thank you so much for the help!
Overall, this seems like a good product. I just mounted my first one and it is solid. I did my best to follow these instructions. But, I have to say that you should not imagine it is as easy or as neat as the video. I was installing a vertical bar, so all into one stud. My challenges were: 1) As of this posting, at 5:52 in the video, he says, and the subtitle says, use a 5/16" drill bit. He meant to say 3/16". I followed the video and my first lag bolt hole was unusable. It was a recoverable error, but frustrating. 2) My fiberglass shower wall slopes, but of course the stud behind it does not. This creates a problem in both measuring and in the plastic flange screwing flush to the fiberglass. I am not sure what the proper work-around should have been, but it would have been nice to have one. I was able to recover from this using a Dremel and a lot of caulk, but again, frustrating. 3) Finally, I would recommend wearing a breathing mask for drilling the 2" holes. Fiberglass granules were flying everywhere. I just used a COVID mask to keep them away from my nose. 4) I had to drill off-center in the 2" holes both times, to the extent that my drill chuck would not go all the way in. This meant the 3/16" hole in the stud was shallower than it might have been, requiring a lot of torque to fully cinch up the lag bolt. Before I do another installation, I am going to get an extra long 3/16" bit.
Again, I still think it is a a good product and I plan to install two more.
ThirdAct Warrior Thank you for your feedback it is important to us. I miss the lag bolt issue and thank you we have fixed the text part but will do a voice-over in the very near future. Most people would install per the written instructions using the video as more of a visual tool. But, nonetheless, it needs to be correct.
Regarding the angled shower wall. We can not account for all conditions but you could have reached out to me and I would have been more than happy to walk you through the correct procedure.
I did address this below in an older post so here is the info for next time.
For conversation's sake let's say you end up with a 2 5/8" gap from the stud to the front of the fiberglass. So, you now are over our 2 1/8" spec. by 1/2". What I did was I bought (x) number of fender washers the same size that we ship that when stacked to 1/2" spacing or whatever (x) is in your case. Then I also bought a lag bolt that was 1/2" or 1" longer than the one we ship, I don't remember. By doing both those you still keep the lag bolt at the minimum required depth in the stud and the washers will act as if the stud was closer.
Regarding the slant, all you can do is mount THe SOlid Mount square to the stud and then fill the gap with silicone. I am not sure what you used the Dremel for?
Craig
@@TheSolidMount It's hard explain, but I will try. Because of the slope, the disc wound up not being centered on the grab bar flanges, even though I measured per instructions to the best of my ability. There wound up being disc material that extended past the flange and it kept the cosmetic cover from seating properly once everything was tightened up. I blue-taped the area around that part of the disc to protect the fiberglass. Then I used a Dremel with a small sanding cylinder, carefully, to remove the disc material that was keeping the cover from seating. Then I smoothed everything over with caulk. We thought alike on the fender washers and the longer bolts. That is exactly what I did. It really turned out very satisfactorily in the end. The bars are solid and look great. It just took a lot more fenagaling than I could have imagined. If you have a mind to, doing another video on "How to solve problems you might encounter" would be a suggestion.
@@thirdactwarrior317 Thanks for the explanation and suggestion.
Hope you had a successful installation. I'm planning on installing a grad bar on the outer edge of our 1 piece shower/tub enclosure. This fastener looks like it will work it I can hit a stud.
Thanks for sharing your experience. An extra long 3/16 bit is a helpful tip.
Great Video - Why don't you see anyone install a grab bar at the outer edge of the shower enclosure sort of straight up and down. Seems like the right place to install if you are getting out of a shower. We are having our master bath remodeled so we are using a shower just like in your video in our other bathroom. On your video that grab bar is great for getting up and down inside the tub but I think you need another one at the entrance/exit of the tub? Great device for installing to fill up the empty space behind the surround. These manufacturers have that one wash cloth holder. I bet many people try and use that device to get up and out. Scary, surely not approved for that use.
There should be a kicker player right on the outside of the shower that it is screwed to. Most people just put the bar right on the outside edge.
I've read all comments+replies to date (Nov. 2022). Advice I need concerns the type of drill bits you used to bore through the fiberglass to prevent cracking it (diamond, High speed steel, or carbide tipped?)-for both the pilot hole drilled and the 2" diameter drill bit needed. Is it also recommended that the 2" drill have a pilot drill bit attached at its center to guide it for drilling into the recessed stud at its center?
Your video and your replies to previous questions answer a lot of questions this type job presents.
Thank you
For the pilot hole, we use a regular steel bit for wood, metal, and plastic like the Black and Gold Split Point Drill Bit and the 2" hole a Bi-Metal 2" hole saw. The key is to drill slowly with light pressure. Hope this helps.
@@TheSolidMount Craig-Thanks for the follow up information. I'm good to go.....
Great video, clear instructions, wonderful reviews. I'm not a "handy-man" so I must ask how it is so strong when in the end only 6 screws are going through plastic and fiberglass to hold it up? I'm over 250 lbs myself so if the day comes I need to pull on it, will that really hold me or someone else? (As Forrest Gump said "I'm not a smart man") so I ask because I just don't understand. Thank you for your kindness.
Please go to our website at this link and you can review all our specs and testing. thesolidmount.com/specs/
What do the final 3 screws on the flange fasten to? It is a bigger circumference than the spacer and I was figuring the those screws should attache to the spacer for a firm mount
I am not sure I understand the issue if you watch the video around the 11:49 time line it talks about attaching the grab bar to the flange. Now if the grab bar has a flange larger than 3" then that will not work with our product . The Solid Mount® is designed for 3" flange. Hope that helps.
Great video. Now I hope I have the strength to do it. Otherwise, I'll to find someone else to do it. Thanks.
Well if you have any questions reach out to us on our website
I just ordered a kit to install a 32" grab bar at a clients. I'm a bit concerned with the final screws going into the plastic flange, but we'll see...
What is the concern? The Solid Mount was tested in a certified labe and exceeds 300 lbs. of pull out.
Would like to see a video on the installation on the outer edge of the shower enclosure.
Bill there normally is a kicker plate on the outside of the shower that you can attach a bar to. Normally there is not a stud at the inside edge of the shower. If you have a stud that is 2-3" inside then do a standard install, anything closer to the edge will be an issue with the mount sitting flat on the fiberglass and not overhang. This is normally not an option due to studs being 16" on center this is why we suggest locating the kicker plate just outside the unit. Hope this helps
I wanted to install a grab bar similar in length to yours, but the shower wall has a vertical contour that decreases in depth (which would make half the shower wall about 1" closer to the studs). If I used a 32" grab bar mounted horizontally that spanned this vertical contour (the decrease in shower wall depth would be in about the middle of the grab bar), do you think I could still have secure, water tight mounts at both ends (using the procedures set out in your video)? It seems doable to me, perhaps with slight adjustments to screw patterns and sufficient caulking, but wanted to ask the expert. Appreciate any thoughts you might have on this and thanks for the great video.
With our seeing a picture it is hard to say. Reach out to us on our website thesolidmount(dot)com
Thank you for this Excellent Video! I have a 5ft. long stand up fiberglass shower, My wife and myself are getting older and this will be a nice safety feature there. I did not like the idea of drilling 2'' holes in my shower, But you explained it well and I will be buying these mounts, I would like to know the brand of grab handle you used as that is exactly what I need. Thanks
We used a regular grab bar from your local hardware store. Just make sure it is a standard 3" dia. flange.
That part where you were using the wire to check if the 1/8 mm hole is at the dead center of the stud. I tried to “angle” the wire yet I feel the wire tip is still hitting the same area and not on the sides . How to do this correctly?
Update: I just drilled another 1/8” hole to the left and right of the first hole and stick a nail in each, and I can detect a stud in those holes. I think I did hit dead center. It’s late now so I will drill the 2 in hole saw tomorrow morning
That is what the wire is hitting. It all depends on the depth of the studs. But you can definitely do what you did. Let me know how it goes for you.
Where can I buy the Solid Mount products? I saw them online at Amazon, but only one size grab bar 9 x 4 x 1.25 ". I would also like larger sizes in addition.
We do not sell the grab bar so you can choose the size you want.
I will be installing some grab bars for a friend into a fiberglass shower. The long side is an exterior wall. Above the fiberglass is about 12 inches of sheetrock and then a window. I am unable to get a stud signal in the sheetrock area. Any thoughts on how to locate the studs ? Thanks, Bob
Send me a picture of the shower to sales@thesolidmount.com. I'll mark it up with ideas
I am considering purchasing 2 of these mounts for our acrylic shower wall. We are in the construction phase for our bathroom and the studs are up around the shower. Would now be a good time to install these before we go any farther. There will not be any drywall behind the shower as it is installed directly onto the studs.
Stop.... If the back wall is open just have your contractor put blocking in for the grab bars. You do not need our product if you can add the blocking
@@TheSolidMount thank you. The back wall is blocked with plumbing pipes, but both ends are not. It is a small shower, and we are planning on installing an 18” vertically on one wall and a 21” horizontally on the opposite wall.
Well if you can't add blocking you can glue 3/4" plywood against the back of the shower
Thank you for this!
Is it possible to use this kit behind the fiberglass wall panels instead of having to drill a 2" hole? I plan to but blocking in the wall but want to have something to fill the gap between the blocking & the surround. The studs in my house are not installed properly & there's tongue-and groove board spanning them. Some studs don't go all the way up, some are pieced together, and the are not 16" on center. This looks like a good option instead of having to add more wood blocks in. I figure this could help reinforce the fiberglass and since it's not wood, it won't rot if any moisture somehow gets in. I'm thinking if I make sure I know exactly where the kit pieces will be, then I can install them that way.
As an aside, I am terrible at getting tape on straight so having to double it up is what I usually have to do as well. I like how you got straight to the point and gave enough information to explain how it works with enough detail.
I'm not really sure I understand. If I'm correct you have access to the back of the fiberglass? If that is correct then just put a 3/4" plywood 12x12 where the flanges will be and mount the bar. I would use bolts with fender washers against the plywood since you have full access. Good luck. You can always reach out to us at thesolidmount.com on our contact page.
@@TheSolidMount Yes, I will be tearing out an old shower/tub unit and will be able to access the wall behind before I install the new shower unit. I don't have access from the opposite side. Moisture is a huge problem in my area so I was thinking of doing wood 2x6s or 2x10s in the wall as backers and then using the solid mounts in the backers (if they won't hit studs in the right spots) but keeping the circular shaped part behind the fiberglass in the wall instead of having it go through. If I measure correctly, I'd anchor in to them when I install the grab bars. Alternatively, I could use PVC boards to stack. The ones I have are 5/8" thick so two of them glued together would be about 1-1/4" and I could shim if the wall sticks out more than that. I've got the Sterling Ensemble Curve shower unit. I figure PVC board won't get damaged if it gets any moisture in it and I'll use screws long enough to reach through to the wood backers.
That sounds like a decent plan, but since I'm not there to see it I can not be 100% certain.
Please post the link to the video for how to cut the threaded spacers.
czcams.com/video/84F5FW3_A-Y/video.html
n anyone share how they used this kit with a greater than 2 1/8th " gap between the stud and exterior shower wall.... ????? Thanks
Mary, this is Craig with The Solid Mount. Reach out to me on our contact page it is the fastest way thesolidmount.com/contact-us/ Include the total distance from the stud to the fiberglass enclosure. Once I have that I can tell you if the workaround we have will work for your application.
Thank you,
Craig
Are the flanges on the grab bars all the same diameter/circumference regardless of manufacturer?
There are standards of 2.5" and 3". I can not tell you what China or some other company does but in general we have found 3" to be the standard overall.
Our fiberglass shower/tub surround is not flat. It has a slight curvature to it. Will this work?
Sorry for the late reply. Go to our website here we address this
thesolidmount.com/problem-solving/
How do i do something less than 7/8 inch? The adapter is quite proud of the fiberglass surface.
Erik, sorry for the late reply what is the distance you are talking about? Reach out to me on our support form thesolidmount.com/contact-us/
I installed the first of four grab bars yesterday. I used the recommended 3/16" bit for the lag bolt (I had to get a long bit to get the hole deep enough). My Ryobi 3/8" drill didn't have enough torque to drive the lag bolt in far enough. I used a right-angle socket wrench to get it all the way necessary. When I attempted to install the second spacer, as I was driving the lag bolt the final way in with the right-angled wrench, the bolt sheared off! Yikes! Fortunately, I was able to move over a little on the 2x4, and by reaming out the new hole some, I was able to get a new lag bolt properly installed, though I still needed the right-angled wrench to finish driving the bolt. So, I'm wondering whether a 3/16 hole for the lag bolt is right. Should it really be 7/32" or maybe even 1/4"?
Other than that, this is a great product. That grab bar I installed isn't going anywhere. One down, three to go.
Tim the manufacturer of the lag bolt calls for a 3/16" hole for a 5/16" Lag bolt. I am not sure what would cause the sheering. Glad it all worked out fo you.
@@TheSolidMount Thanks for your reply. Perhaps that one bolt was flawed. All the rest went in just fine, though I did have to ream the hole some to make it easier. The remaining three bars were all installed easily. It was really nice after drilling the 2" holes to see the stud right were it was supposed to be! I've described your product, and included links to this video, to many of my friends who might be installing grab bars soon.
Good info. Could you provide the recommended diameter for the drill bit.
3/16" for lag bolt 1/8" for test hole
The only problem I ran into, is the SS cover will not cover the solid mount disks, the tolerance is just too tight. It is only about 1/16 out on both outer edge. I cannot tap it on, nothing will work. Any help????
Per grab bar manufacturers the flange is designed only to cover their flange.
Do you have a link to this grab bar? I don’t see any bars on your website and I’m worried I’d end up with a grab bar that doesn’t cover your mount properly
No we don't I know most Moen grab bars work.
impressive "how to". i will comment however when the lines are vertical we refer to them as being plumb, not level :-)
Thank you
Thanks for this excellent instruction. I'm going to install the same bar inside my single fiberglass shower. Now I know!
Dean
Seattle
You are welcome! Thank you
I am in a townhouse built in 1918 - Plaster walls, cheap, poorly place, difficult-to-locate studs. Help? Also, do the spacers come with the product?
I'm sorry for the slow response I did not get a notice there was a message. That is an issue no stud finder will locate them. Contact us at thesolidmount.com/support-portal-home/ at the bottom of the page is a contact form. We do have a way to work around it but I will need to see pictures, so after you reach out to us we can then start an email chain with you.
I've seen people having trouble finding the stud through the fiberglass do I need a certain stud finder
You locate the stud above the fiberglass shower they run straight down the wall 99.9% of the time
What could you do if there are NO studs to fasten to? I have a one-piece shower/tub enclosure.
Bill if there are no studs I would say the shower was not installed correctly. What state are you in?
I am just as curious as to besides the three screws how is it held firmly ! What was the purpose of white small piece mounted before the fibreglass disks were glued
I am not really sure about your question. Did you watch the video? If so let me know the timeline of the video you are questioning and I will try to help you.
Thank you for reaching out to us on our contact page. THe answer given was the lag bolt holds the threaded shaft to the house 2x4 and the flat part has a cup on the back and threads to the shaft attached to the house.
Please tell me what stud finder brand you used? I seem to buy ones that don’t work.
It's just a cheap stud finder
What about a screw on grab bar that goes on side of tub where else can it go I need on right side which is wall with shelves
I am not sure what you are asking. Are you talking about a clamp on bar?
@@TheSolidMount - could you publish the youtube link as I could not locate this video, thanks
One more question before I go ahead and invest in your excellent-looking mounts: The fiberglass surface is slightly convex at one of my mounting points, so there will be a 1/4" gap between the fiberglass surface and one edge of the mounting plate. Can a gap of this size be filled and sealed with caulk, so it doesn't leak? If caulk alone can't fill a gap of this size, is there something else that can?
Yes, that is exactly how we say to fix that type of situation. Remember, you already have a bead of silicon started before you screw on the mount so if you give that a few hours to firm up it will give you a great backstop win filling in the gap. Good luck and Thank you.
@@TheSolidMountI don’t see them listed on solid mount website
What is not listed on our site
@@TheSolidMount found it finally on Amazon, USA and got a set. Thanks, I’ll be using video. Since the shower back is three different widths (contoured in three levels), will this fit a bar that spans these contours?
@@robbunch2225 Without seeing it I can not say 100%> But sounds like you have the right idea
Hello there,
Can you please tell me what brand hole saw you are using? Is it a Milwaukee?
I’ve been looking for one and most that I come across have bad reviews.
we use diffrent brands, Milwaukee is a good brand
Do we still need to purchase the grab bar separately? Was that mentioned and I missed it? I don’t see it on your website.
Sorry for the late reply. Yes you need to order a separate bar with a 3" flange
I used your kit yesterday worked great but my problem was at the end when I screwed the bar onto the white disc it must have not been lined up right because I could not get the cover to fit right had to hit both of them with a hammer! please advise
The cover is designed to fit against the plate.
@@TheSolidMount ok thanks for your reply
@@TheSolidMount thank you for this excellent system. Just one clarification on this point. Is the grab bar flange cover supposed to fit OVER the mounting plate, or just up against the mounting plate?
@@JCK363 The flange is designed just to cover the grab bar flange, not the mounting plate.
@@TheSolidMount great. Thank you very much. This is an excellent product, and your video explanation was super helpful.
You should link to your product in the video notes. You know, just in case someone found the video on CZcams and now realizes they really should have your product to install a grab bar.
Thank you will do. Personally thought I already did.
does that stud finder find wooden studs?
Yes, the stud finder locates the studs above the fiberglass. They will not find studs if you try to scan over the fiberglass shower or if you have tile or other wall covering ontop of the standard drywall.
Do you sell the actual bars yourself too or just the mounts? Should any type of bar work with this mounting system?
We only supply the mounting kit. The Solid Mount works with any standard grab bar with a 3" flange.
Where do we get the kit?
@@eyeofthetiger4361 thesolidmount.com
@@TheSolidMount I suppose some bars may not be provided with several holes all the way around the flange.
Great video. Unfortunately my mother’s shower is completely fiberglass, all the way to the ceiling. There’s no way to find the stud. Is there maybe a stronger stud finder out there? Otherwise I’m left to relying on those suction supports. I’ve read mixed reviews on them, though, and don’t want to risk it. I suppose I could drill tiny holes every where until I found it but what nightmare that would be. Or maybe climb in the attic but it’s at the corner of the house so crawl space would be extremely limited. Anyone have suggestions? Would be GREATLY appreciated. TIA
Gator Guy the only suggestion I have is to put a bar right on the outside edge where the drywall meets the fiberglass there should be a kicker stud to attach to.
@@TheSolidMountthx for the reply! Not sure why I just got it. I installed small grab bar, like you said, right at the entrance. Unfortunately, my mother was hospitalized recently and now needs a grab bar inside the shower. I hired a handy many to figure it out. He told me there’s no studs behind the surface because the bathroom is on the very corner/end of the house. He said he thinks there’s possibly some “filler” behind the fiberglass, and then drywall and cinder block. He said he could try it but didn’t feel good about it. We decided to not go through with it until we know it’s rock solid. I don’t have any other options except redoing the bathroom. I may hire another professional to get their opinion. If anyone reading this has suggestions, I’m all ears. Tia!
(I subscribed, thx)
Can you get to the back of the shower? If it is on the outside wall and it is a block/brick house the contractor is most likely correct. Can you use a shower bench?
@@craigm4757We ended up putting a chair in the shower. I put one of those strong suction handles on the wall. I made sure she understood it’s not for full body weight, just more of a guide/balance in case she needs to orient herself briefly after standing up. Sometimes she (me too) gets a little lightheaded upon raising. I think it’s called orthostatic something. Thx for the reply!
@@gatorr4life Fantastic glad everything worked out. The only issue I have is with the suction cup bar they are very dangerous and unpredictable. So I would suggest removing the bar periodically checking the suction cup for cracking or breakdown of material and cleaning the wall are. Stay safe.
I'm a service tech for a housing company, and on my property, when somebody puts a 504 in for a grab bar in their shower, your mounts are the only ones we use. The only thing I don't like is the price. $50 for some plastic pieces are incredibly expensive compared to metal anchors, or even the Moen anchors. That's the only gripe I have, but they definitely work.
Chris buy on our website directly. You can purchase singles on Amazon or in bulk direct on our website. We are the manufacturer.
@@TheSolidMount we buy from your Amazon store, we just purchased a set the other day, $44 plus tax I believe. That's expensive for what you get. You could cut the price down by not including lag bolts. But I don't know. It's just pricey. It works great, just hate spending that money for plastic. No hate here, but $29.99 would be a great price point for those.
@Chris Sorry, we can not keep the price at $29.95. Let me explain without sounding like a jerk, I hope :). Over the last 2 years, we have seen a 40% increase in our hardware 80% increase for the specialty plastic, and labor went up almost 80% from 10.00 - 18.00 an hour, so when you add all that up, we only increased our price 10% in 20+ years; also, shipping costs have gone crazy. What used to cost 5.95 to ship is now 8.25, and we cover part of that cost. So, we used to initially sell our product for 29.95 plus shipping, then we raised the price and included shipping. So at 29.95 + 8.25, you would pay 38.20, or we do it my way and sell it for 32.95 + 4.95 (we eat some of the shipping cost) 37.90 and save 1.05.
Let's also not forget my cost and expenses, Liability insurance, overhead, Amazon fees, packaging, misc business expense, and wages. So we do not make as much as you might think we do.
Again I hope this explains and clears up your thoughts. Plus, what is the alternative? No grab bar or tear open a wall and spend a few hundred dollars and a lot of time, so when you look at everything, Are we that expensive? God Bless, and thanks for your input.
Plus you can buy bulk on our site and save.
@@TheSolidMount okay, that put things into perspective. I didn't realize they were made in the US. I just never paid attention to that part, I just rip the package apart and install lol I just looked at your site and seen the bulk orders, so we may end up going that route to save money. We've gotten almost 10 sets this year so far, so would make a better deal. In no way was I trying to be disrespectful so please don't take it as such. And yeah, the cost of everything is going up, and my paycheck stays the same lol it sucks.
Chris I love being able to having good conversations. Let me know if we can help.
Craig
I do have a question now though: At 11:16, are you aware of any waterproofing issues around the screw itself since it's going through both the flange _and_ the fiberglass? I know you've got the grab bar cover, the mounting plate of the grab bar, then the Solid Mount flange and the screw in there to plug the hole. My thinking is if water still seeps over the screw, then it could get alongside that screw and eventually the other side of that fiberglass. Especially over time as weight is put on it regularly every day. It doesn't seem very likely but it seems like the main entry point I can imagine. 😅
Patrick, the simple answer is no. Once the bar is in place you have chaulking around the outside of the flange sealing there, plus the silicone between the mount and the fiberglass. Regarding the screws, they are threaded with self-tapping screws in plastic, and without high pressure, water should never penetrate. Hope that helps
@@TheSolidMount Patrick is using forethought. You could put some silicone sealer around the screw holes prior to tightening screws down. Also you could seal the finish trim plates at the bar. Just a tiny bit of moisture entry over extended period can result in fungus damage requiring destructive inspections and tear outs. This comes with 40 years' experience in the field of both inspections and structural repairs.
Carl you can do that if you like. But you already sealed the flange to the shower when you installed it plus you chalk when the install is finished. Not a single grab bar manufacturer request or requires the additional chalking you suggest. So if you want you can buy being in the industry from before 1985 to today never once have we had an issue as you suggest. Thank you for your input
@@carlcampbell6827 FWIW, we actually purchased and installed this. We ended up putting silicone/sealant around the outer trim plates. 😊 Elegant, solid and waterproof. Great product so far.
@@TheSolidMount Thanks for the feedback. These subject are unavoidable "in the blood" issues for lifetime tradespeople.
So mounting the pieces to the stud only prevents the bar caving in
Simon not sure what you're trying to say. By installing The Solid Mount you create a solid mounting plate for the grab bar to mount to. This prevents the bar from moving in any direction.
Lag bolt broke, can’t find the dimensions on the parts list
5/16" x 4" sorry I missed this
Problem: The studs behind my fiberglass shower enclosure are 16" apart. I want to install a horizontal bar, horizontally (that is, not on a slope). I'm having trouble finding bars whose brackets are a multiple of 16" apart (that is, 16" or 32" or 48"). Do you know of anybody who makes such bars? Or maybe, some bars whose length can somehow be reduced to fit (e.g. reducing the span of a 36" bar to 32")?
NO, I have never understood that. The only thing I can think is once you go to 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" dia. you are now in commercial dia. and so ADA does not call for a 16" bar. I use an 18" and slight angle.
@@TheSolidMount FYI, I have now found several brands online that do offer grab bars that are 16", 32", or 48" long. Moen is the best-known brand that offers bars in these sizes, but there are others.
@@kenwinter7787 Correct, there are many great brands out there.
Is it possible that the distance between the fiberglass and the stud is larger than 2 1/8"? If that's the case, is there anything one can do (after the hole is cut already)?
Yes, Email me at sales@thesolidmount.com and send me the dimension from the stud to the front of the fiberglass wall. Also, if possible a picture of your installation.
@@TheSolidMount I don't have that because I want to make sure I can finish the job once I have started it (I plan to hire someone to do it). But based on the dimensions of my shower wall sticking out from the wall on the top (up to 2"), I assume that the total depth may exceed 2 1/8". I saw another video (by an installer) that suggested buying extra kits, cutting additional spacers from those, and adding them as needed. Is that acceptable?
@@gdfarkas1947 Yes based on that information you would then fall out of our specs. I am not sure what others have done. I did run across this once and what I am going to tell you we have not tested and you do at your own risk. But, it was over 10 years ago and the bar is still in place. For conversation's sake let's say you end up with a 2 5/8" gap from the stud to the front of the fiberglass. So, you now are over our 2 1/8" spec. by 1/2". What I did was I bought (x) number of fender washers the same size that we ship that when stacked to 1/2" spacing or whatever (x) is in your case. Then I also bought a lag bolt that was 1/2" or 1" longer than the one we ship, I don't remember. By doing both those you still keep the lag bolt at the minimum required depth in the stud and the washers will act as if the stud was closer. Personally, I would not suggest buying a second kit. First waste of money, secondly the load, and sheer change due to the footprint of the plastic spacer compared to washers it is all physics and engineering at this point. Let me know if you need more help.
pec
@@TheSolidMount Thank you very much for the prompt reply.
@@gdfarkas1947 My Pleasure.
why would the hole into the fiberglass have to be so large?
So if the stud is off center you can adjust.
How much do you charge for this kind of work?
Go to our website for the product thesolidmount.com
the part i really wanted to see was the part you did not show. Cutting the spacer. I'm thinking that is very difficult to do and thats why it was lwft out of the video
The contrary. They are very easy to do but because the area we had to film in was so small. By the time we got the lights, cameras and other equipment in the room I basically had to sit on the side of the tub or in it. We just cut them with a hacksaw. In the future I will toss up a short video on how to cut the spacers. But seriously they cut very easily. Let me know if you have any other questions.
The video on "How to cut the threaded spacers" is now available on CZcams.
Where do I purchase your Grab Bar?
You use any standard grab with a 3" flange
Better than a wire to find that stud would be a electricians, spinner screwdriver it’s the best tool ever to find the center of a stud
interesting thought, it just would take a larger hole plus most people don't have one, but I see how it would do the job also.
Where do I buy?!?!
Home Depot, Amazon, medical supply store any bar with a 3" flange
Why not use your stud finder to double check that the stud is actually at the lower elevation where you're installing the hardware? There's no guarantee that studs are installed plumb.
The stud finder cannot "read" through the fiberglass shower wall and the sheet rock wall behind the fiberglass.
@@billchippendale6409 Ah, I wasn't paying attention to the fact that he was not scanning through the fiberglass up at the top of the unit. Thanks for the correction!
I wish they made one that could scan through the fiberglass and a gap and be accurate.
Hole too big for me. Going to keep searching
Not sure understand.
Too bad on the website, you don’t show where you buy the goddamn fucking bar
I am sorry you feel the need to use fowl language when you could just ask. Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon pretty much any medical device store. Again sorry you felt the need to use fowl language.