SERVICE TRAILER BRAKE! & Power Locks (GM Truck)
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- čas přidán 7. 05. 2021
- After a salty winter, the big Chevy Silverado 3500 Duramax dually is back in the shop with some electrical problems.
The SERVICE TRAILER BRAKE message is displayed on the cluster, the power locks do not work from the door switches, and the tail lights on the utility bed are NOT WORKING.
Let's see how many problems we can fix before ordering any parts :)
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TS 100 AMAZING SOLDERING IRON:
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Enjoy!
Ivan - Auta a dopravní prostředky
One suggestion - when bridging a gap like that, lay a small piece of solid core wire across the gap when you drop the solder on.
Solder is a pretty weak metal, and it may fracture across the gap; soldering a really short jumper prevents that.
25+ years of fixing pinball machines (kings of vibration breaking things) taught me that .... ;-)
+1
+1
Now I'm going to search for pinball repairs on CZcams
@@kbrnsr 👍
You’re as good as your repeat business. ,,, you have a lot of return customers because they can trust you ( and of course your work is top notch)!
Much respect, sir.
The king of no parts required
As another comment said standard butt connectors. He will be back all those connectors should be taken out wire soldered and Shrink fit. And when I do my own trailer plugs I fill them up with Dielectric grease also.
That’s one thing I don’t miss crusty and broken wires after trucking for years to Alaska. The road salt, snow and ice, gravel and dirt roads destroyed everything.
I can see why Eric O picks your brain. You both have remarkable skills. Thanks for sharing!
I reflow with a bit of new soldier and sometimes add more flux. That helps clean up things and can be neater.
I remember when the Los Angeles Dept of Water & Power (LADWP) got the new GM pickups that had the on board Trailer Brake Control setup. I figured out real quick to jumper the pin in the (truck side) receptacle to the ground pin using the wiring diagram. In the dash readout it read Trailer Connected. That was a quick test to make sure the "Sense" side of the module worked. Unless you had a trailer connected and not the jumper, I did not apply the trailer brake manual control with just the jumper. I figured that might damage the TBCM.
Anyway, most of the testing was to verify the truck wiring was working for the trailer lighting. The old 7 wire test box worked great for that. Most of the problems we had were in the trailer side of the lighting system.
working on semis between the end of february and the middle of june i spent more time fixing garbage wiring repairs and test light holes in insulation and the green pus of death than just about anything else. it was non stop. 90% of it was unnecessary.
The main culprit I see is people use the heat seal crimp connectors but don't heat seal them shut on the semitrailers I work on. A waste of the better style crimp connectors.
Nicely done my man. Resoldered a BMW tail light circuit board last weekend myself. Amazing how often circuit boards come unsoldered. Your approach is the epitome of what a mechanic professional should be.
I had a work truck from same year. Guys would leave windows down in rain and those switches would be completely full of water. I would take them out empty water and dry out with heat gun. Worked a couple times then had to replace them.
Ivan with all the corrosion problems on today’s cars can you imaging the problems when they start pumping out EV CARS. You will be in high demand in the rust belt. Thanks for sharing and stay safe and well Artie 😊
TS100. Best iron, ever. I'm 65, I've had a few. Do yourself a favour, turn the temp up to 350 or 400. On & off faster. Interesting channel, great content.
These are my favourite videos Ivan . The ones that you pull apart the failed part and get it back good as new . Enjoy every minute thanks AL greetings from Ontario Canada 🇺🇸🇨🇦
if you use a strand of copper in the soldered bridge to aid flow and strength
Wow, no parts required, do you believe that. There are quite some trouble codes listed but with the most important repairs done, the truck is still holding up with 320k miles!
Ivan, you're a true technician. Most shops would have changed an entire wiring harness and 2 door switches.
Good fix...the door lock switches are $15 for GM brand. Plus the shipping time from Rockauto. All of those wires in back could use a good fogging of wd-40 or 100% silicone spray or something more appropriate as they have lots of surface film crud. Good old GMC still running !
I believe I have 2 hats to send you and Eric O. BMW For you ( Ivan ) and a DORMAN hat for Eric O.
Thank you for the video!
Those switches fail due to water entry due to workers leaving the crank down windows open because it's too much work to close them.
Great Job Ivan, I definitely have to check out that kool soldiering iron.
Just ordered the soldering iron, another awesome job Ivan!!
As a truck and coach tech
I deal with that kind of wiring everyday lol corrosion or broken on multiple places.
the butt connectors don't even look they they were shrunk
Sweet NPR fix Ivan. Thanks!
Great vid Ivan. Those green crusties can wreak havoc. Npr on one lock switch is a win though !
Nice repair Ivan, that is a cool
soldering iron!!! Pennsy must still
have crappy weather too, It's still
raining here in Indiana!!!
Thanks for the bonus footage. That what I needed to see.
This thing has about the loudest fuel pump ever.. would drive me insane, lol.
Solder bridge repairs for the win. My next step, if possible, is why.
NO PARTS REQUIRED OF COURSE.
Cleaning up "pads", try a pink-pearl eraser. Very mildly abrasive, gentle pressure...combined with a contact clearner or WD-40
No parts? Right door lock unlock switch. I like your troubleshooting strategy.
Nice green crusties eating them wires lol. So simple fix! Only thing is the passenger switch replace! Nice find and i wondered if your could find and fix the wire problem without the scanner? Lol. Let's see if you can do it. Like old school diagnosis! Lol. A good challenge?
Solder wick is great for trace repair
Should've also tested the passenger side switches ground just to be thorough. Maybe you did that off camera?
Also surprised Keith DeFazio hasn't commented on you repairing a Dorman part LOL.
Very good point! Yes I forgot to show that part 🙂
when i use pliers i put elastic band around the pliers handels to hold the wire from slipping
Thanks
Smashing repairs ivan :-D
I always appreciate the trouble you go to for your customers, very lucky customers :-D
The dodgy door touch switches remind me of remote control switches, the black conductive disk often needs a clean, and if that fails a disk of tin foil is superglued to the black pad.
Not ideal but keeps it working for a bit longer.
Who shouted Bodge!! :-D
I would want to spray silicone in all the connectors of that truck, water is a bloody pain :-(
@15:10, old trick use elastic band around pliers handle makes temp vice!
great video. Whats your thoughts on scanner your using? got too get a better one than i have.
a service truck, likely they leave the windows open in rain all too often and the switches got wet 999,999 times. I assume I'll see a ball of corrosion inside them shortly further in video =p
** yep, exactly the issue! LOL
I think it’s time for a Dorman hat.
old truck still looked pretty good underneath
YES IT DID.
It's a southern truck
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics new it couldn't be from Eric O country!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics AH, Makes more sense now.
Hey Ivan, what are your thoughts on the Thinkcar scan tool you've been using lately? How does it compare to the Launch, Snap-On and others that you've used? Keep up the great work!
You are great no parts needed can you put a video about Honda Accord key fob red light bllings thans❤
Just purchased a Thinktool scanner ace tool
you should always use flux when reflowing joints or add solder, remove it all, then flow fresh flux core.
or be lazy and cheap adding a bit of flux core solder (I know nothing about being said lazy person) :))
Using pliers as a third hand. Brilliant.
Love your channel. But you would be out of work if you lived out here where I do in Phoenix Arizona next Arizona. We never see stuff like that
More top sleuthing here Ivan. (Why not invest in a fume extractor for those nasty soldering fumes..)
I was going to comment about how weird it was that both switches died until I saw doorman! Smh
But that also means the OE GM switches died too. In this case design is the culprit and not Dorman. (That is a shocker for me too)
@@jimmyaber5920 ahhh but think about how long that passenger side (original) switch has been in there as compared to the doorman unit. Longevity is not a strong suit of doorman products.
Road salt strikes again. Rain may have killed the passenger side switch after 322k miles.
Those diesels won't die with regular oil changes. Some CZcamsr commented that they changed from diesel to propane where he worked, expecting the engines to last longer, since propane burns so clean. But the engines running on propane didn't last as long as when diesel was the fuel. Speculation was that the diesel lubricates both ends of the pistons. Someone told me that a gasoline engine will last longer running on gasoline, than running on propane because the gas lubricates the valve stems better than propane vapor does. Who knows. Maybe the, 'Project Farm' fellow can test that theory.
Indeed gasonine engines will last longer when you put gasonline in it rather than propane. You can drive on propane, but only if the valve stems and seats are fit for propane. Some modern engines are ready as standard, some are not and need to have different valves and hardened valve seats. Also a well-known problem with gasonine cars driving on LPG or on methane.
I hope you submitted that idea to PF!
I didn't like the fuel lift pump surging sound when the flashers and lights were on. could be weak or bad frame/body/engine grounds or it needs a different relay controlled power feed.
then again maybe alternator getting weak or the power feed from it.
I wonder if those corroded through wires under the truck were due to previous diagnosticians using ponoma piercers or sharp test lights to stab wires whilst trying to diagnose something then not going back to seal over their holes leading to failure by corrosion over time. It didn't look like they were in a location subject to chafing.
Or maybe car wiring just has really $4hit insulation QA processes that ends up leaving copper exposed to rot.
:/
How is this truck in Pennsylvania but tagged in Oklahoma? We need Keith Perkins to do a collaboration video on this truck.
👍
I don't know why they put that stuff out in the weather underneath
Ooff! Dorman 1, oem 0 😆,and Dorman still doesn’t work psst
nice. i love my usb powered soldering iron fast convenient heat. where is the Russian switch bare wire to bare wire for passenger switch LOL. what? u dont have a spare big red momentary switch to jam in there? lol
It is a good idea to add some solder flux before you re-flow the the joint.
Clean the flux off with isopropyl alcohol.
Ivan, what did you use to get the pin out of that connector?
A pick and my fingers 👍
Like #150
Thanks for the video!
Ok
Do u still use launch scanners? I was thinking of buying one.
The THINKTOOL is basically a Launch in a rugged package :)
Super complicated trailer brake system!
I once fixed a broken leg with WD40.
Use a pencil pink eraser and erase the contacts clean.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Oklahoma first
The Sooner State ;)
You literally just made a Dorman training video….
Relearn Remote Key in video what the heck is up with that
Huh? Where was that?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics 23:29 pause it
Solder and diesels a bad mix. The vehicle will return
The TS 100 soldering iron is not portable without buying extra parts. Not a very good soldering iron.
Please don't promote questionable products.
Diagnostic videos are great.
What's your point? It's an amazing soldering iron! Just because the battery is sold separately it is "questionable"? I wouldn't promote any product if it was crap, trust me lol
Great work from Aleskyfinis