The six pin distributor connector signals are as follows from left to right. Pin 1 CPU square wave input to the distributor to activate the ignition circuit. Pin 2 Ground for Ignition Coil circuit. Pin 3 Distributor square wave output 60 degree signal, six per 1 distributor rotation. Pin 4 Distributor square wave output 1 degree signal, 360 per 1 distributor rotation. Pin 5 Power to CAM Position electronic circuit. Pin 6 Ground for CAM Position electronic circuit. Capacitor connector Pin 7, 12 Vdc to Ignition Coil Power Circuit. Pin 8, Signal output of the distributor to the CPU to acknowledge primary ignition circuit has fired.
Wow, you really really know your stuff! That’s great. What about the vg30e? The 3.0 V6 in the ‘96 Nissan Quest van. Did it suffer from distributor problems too? Like low RPM bogging, lack of power when stepping on the gas?
thank you for your video Ken very well explained but for some reason I have replaced fuel pump,cam sensor ,crank sensor whole distributor etc still cranks but wont start I love this nissan it only has 100 .000 miles it was running very smooth one day just didnt want to start I was able to make it start but very erratic now it wont even start
When you have a vehicle like this that's more than 20 years old and way over 100k miles you may be better off replacing the entire distributor as a unit. Oftentimes the mechanical parts like the rotor shaft or the distributor gear are won out; causing the the electrical parts like the camshaft sensor and ignition control module to stop working properly. That's what happened in my case and if I had replaced the cam sensor I'd still have a failure. When you do replace this distributor don't purchase the cheapest Chinese made replacements - they have a high failure rate. It's significantly more expensive, but try to get a Nissan OEM distributor or at the very least, a rebuilt Hitachi branded replacement. Hitachi made the OEM piece.
I wish I would have found this comment earlier. I bought a cheap aftermarket distributor and it gave me problems right out of the box. The problem with the replacement distributor was that I had a difficult time getting the engine to start when it was cold. Also, the engine had no power until the engine warmed up.
When you say you can only put the silver disc on one way does that mean if you flip it around the other way it won't run right or won't start? It seems to me you can flip it like a coin and it will still fit on regardless.
Nice video Sir , what symptoms prompt you a replacement for the module , you mentioned the ignition coil was replaced earlier before the module, my case was that engine will crank but will not turn the engine. Very stressful with vehicle stall out just fortunate there’s a parking lot close by .
the engine would act like you turned the key off and back on real quick kicking and bucking a bit and almost stalling at times. when i did the coil you could hear it aching
if you got shavings inside the distributor, most likely the distributor is bad. the bushing or bearings are worn out allowing the shaft to move and rub. i think in my video i show where the flat washer looking part was rubbing on the bottom. while you have the cap off grab the rotor or the top of the distributor shaft and see if it moves side to side. if it doesn't the cheapest way to fix it is to replace it.
if you have had more than one coil go bad which is rare. check for high resistance some where. could be a bad cap or bad plug wires. make sure the spring is in the coil. you leave it out and the spark has to jump to the cap them to go to the rotor and jump the gap at the plug terminal then jump again at the plug. ever jump increases resistance. or it could just be a bad quality coil. maybe change brands. they will usually burn at the point of least resistance. and fire to the back of the distributor housing. make sure the rotor is good also. but I'm going to bet on a high resistance problem.
@@danielmoodie1994 good input guys. I heard that you can't buy the individual parts inside the distributor. But I've seen some guys find them on ebay rock auto ect. I priced a dissy at Nissan dealership...$440! For a reman!!! My cam pos sensor tested bad. I'll source one somewhere thank you.
It's running great. She is driving it daily with no problems at all. I got the parts off eBay. I look for free returns and a very high stfaction ratting on the sellers.
@@crystallizer3437 i don't have the link anymore to where i bought the one i have. and they make two styles depending on year and engine size.but you can tell them apart by how they look.
@@crystallizer3437 try this link and see if one of them matches what you have www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=2000+nissan+pathfinder+se+3.3l+ignition+coil&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=2000+nissan+pathfinder+se+3.3l&_osacat=0
I bought all the parts for this off ebay. just do a search for your year make model and engine and it will bring up several to pick from. i go with the sellers with the best score.
@@johnamlin5681 try searching for a pickup coil, or ignition module. Yes I'm in the America. But they call it different things. It's an ignition module first and a cam sensor second. Dual purpose.
@@lajuanjames5683 i found the one i used on Ebay. just put in what you got and it will probably find it. or you can look it up at Napa or advance and use the numbers they have to find it on ebay. mine it still working fine.
@@KensStuff okay so i didnt know what the plenum was until a bit after you named it lol, and i am now not looking forward to pulling this thing apart. but thanks for the info, i at least now know what i need to follow through with
title should 2000 nissan pathfinder coil replacement not 2000 nissan pathfinder cam position sensor and coil replacement you dont show the cam position sensor.
the distributor acts as a cam position sensor. sounds goofy i know but it's how it is. Jeep 4.0 does the exact same thing. everything is in the distributor.
The six pin distributor connector signals are as follows from left to right.
Pin 1 CPU square wave input to the distributor to activate the ignition circuit.
Pin 2 Ground for Ignition Coil circuit.
Pin 3 Distributor square wave output 60 degree signal, six per 1 distributor rotation.
Pin 4 Distributor square wave output 1 degree signal, 360 per 1 distributor rotation.
Pin 5 Power to CAM Position electronic circuit.
Pin 6 Ground for CAM Position electronic circuit.
Capacitor connector
Pin 7, 12 Vdc to Ignition Coil Power Circuit.
Pin 8, Signal output of the distributor to the CPU to acknowledge primary ignition circuit has fired.
Wow, you really really know your stuff! That’s great. What about the vg30e? The 3.0 V6 in the ‘96 Nissan Quest van. Did it suffer from distributor problems too? Like low RPM bogging, lack of power when stepping on the gas?
thank you for your video Ken very well explained but for some reason I have replaced fuel pump,cam sensor ,crank sensor whole distributor etc still cranks but wont start I love this nissan it only has 100 .000 miles it was running very smooth one day just didnt want to start I was able to make it start but very erratic now it wont even start
gracias por compartir estos detalles para el procedimiento; de reemplazo de estas dos piezas del distriguidor. bendiciones
When you have a vehicle like this that's more than 20 years old and way over 100k miles you may be better off replacing the entire distributor as a unit. Oftentimes the mechanical parts like the rotor shaft or the distributor gear are won out; causing the the electrical parts like the camshaft sensor and ignition control module to stop working properly. That's what happened in my case and if I had replaced the cam sensor I'd still have a failure. When you do replace this distributor don't purchase the cheapest Chinese made replacements - they have a high failure rate. It's significantly more expensive, but try to get a Nissan OEM distributor or at the very least, a rebuilt Hitachi branded replacement. Hitachi made the OEM piece.
I wish I would have found this comment earlier. I bought a cheap aftermarket distributor and it gave me problems right out of the box. The problem with the replacement distributor was that I had a difficult time getting the engine to start when it was cold. Also, the engine had no power until the engine warmed up.
Can I ask where you got this specific part? Happen to have a link? I’m having a hard time sourcing it and not the distributor assembly itself. Thanks!
Thanks
When you say you can only put the silver disc on one way does that mean if you flip it around the other way it won't run right or won't start? It seems to me you can flip it like a coin and it will still fit on regardless.
Nice video Sir , what symptoms prompt you a replacement for the module , you mentioned the ignition coil was replaced earlier before the module, my case was that engine will crank but will not turn the engine.
Very stressful with vehicle stall out just fortunate there’s a parking lot close by .
the engine would act like you turned the key off and back on real quick kicking and bucking a bit and almost stalling at times. when i did the coil you could hear it aching
Nice vid.Thanks. I had several metal shavings around and underneath my sensor. What causes this?
if you got shavings inside the distributor, most likely the distributor is bad. the bushing or bearings are worn out allowing the shaft to move and rub. i think in my video i show where the flat washer looking part was rubbing on the bottom. while you have the cap off grab the rotor or the top of the distributor shaft and see if it moves side to side. if it doesn't the cheapest way to fix it is to replace it.
Where did you get your parts from
I need your help. What of if coil ignition frequently got burnt. What could cause it to be burnt. My coil is frequently got burnt
if you have had more than one coil go bad which is rare. check for high resistance some where. could be a bad cap or bad plug wires. make sure the spring is in the coil. you leave it out and the spark has to jump to the cap them to go to the rotor and jump the gap at the plug terminal then jump again at the plug. ever jump increases resistance. or it could just be a bad quality coil. maybe change brands. they will usually burn at the point of least resistance. and fire to the back of the distributor housing. make sure the rotor is good also. but I'm going to bet on a high resistance problem.
@@KensStuff I second Ken's advice for purchasing quality ignition coils. OEM Nissan is the safest bet for reliability!
@@danielmoodie1994 good input guys. I heard that you can't buy the individual parts inside the distributor. But I've seen some guys find them on ebay rock auto ect. I priced a dissy at Nissan dealership...$440! For a reman!!! My cam pos sensor tested bad. I'll source one somewhere thank you.
@@ironreign9412 This is also the problem I am having. Nowhere to be found
Where is the crankshaft sensor location?for check vg 33 terrano
sorry i don't know.
Hi! How is it running so far with this coil? I wish rock auto had these, they have the cam sensor (aka ICM aka ignition control module).
It's running great. She is driving it daily with no problems at all. I got the parts off eBay. I look for free returns and a very high stfaction ratting on the sellers.
@@KensStuff can you send me a link? I can find only 1 with good ratings from ebay but did not see free returns
@@crystallizer3437 i don't have the link anymore to where i bought the one i have. and they make two styles depending on year and engine size.but you can tell them apart by how they look.
@@KensStuff i have a 2001 vg33, gcc specs. For US specs the VG33 is only up to Year 2000. I hope they would be the same part
@@crystallizer3437 try this link and see if one of them matches what you have
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=2000+nissan+pathfinder+se+3.3l+ignition+coil&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=2000+nissan+pathfinder+se+3.3l&_osacat=0
where do you buy the cam and the coil from?
I bought all the parts for this off ebay. just do a search for your year make model and engine and it will bring up several to pick from. i go with the sellers with the best score.
@@KensStuff are you in america? because I have looked literally everywhere and can not find a stand alone cam sensor for this truck
@@johnamlin5681 try searching for a pickup coil, or ignition module. Yes I'm in the America. But they call it different things. It's an ignition module first and a cam sensor second. Dual purpose.
@@KensStuff thanks I'll give it a try
Knock sensor still working well for ya?
still working great. no problems at all.
@@KensStuff quick question here. Where exactly can i look for the Knock sensor? Cause I got a code for that one
@@lajuanjames5683 it's under the upper plenum, and that is why people try to relocate them. Pulling the upper plenum is a major job.
@@lajuanjames5683 i found the one i used on Ebay. just put in what you got and it will probably find it. or you can look it up at Napa or advance and use the numbers they have to find it on ebay. mine it still working fine.
@@KensStuff okay so i didnt know what the plenum was until a bit after you named it lol, and i am now not looking forward to pulling this thing apart. but thanks for the info, i at least now know what i need to follow through with
title should 2000 nissan pathfinder coil replacement not 2000 nissan pathfinder cam position sensor and coil replacement you dont show the cam position sensor.
the pic of the disk in my hand on this video. that is what they call the cam position sensor.
You talk about a cam position sensor in the beginning of your video but never go through it?
the distributor acts as a cam position sensor. sounds goofy i know but it's how it is. Jeep 4.0 does the exact same thing. everything is in the distributor.
@@KensStuff Thanks!