I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier 3.3L and did this yesterday and it worked. Truck idles better, smoother acceleration and no check engine light. This video helped a lot. Thanks VERY much for taking the time to help guys like me out.
Thanks! 👍 I watched your video to help me fix the KS on my ‘99 Pathfinder. At this point in my learning process it seems the relocation of the wiring is recommended when taking on this job.
Thanks Ken! Yeah at first i was like damn someone has already been in here doing what im doing because the harness leads right to the back of the intake manifold well as i was disconnecting the harness just before it goes deep into hell i got a whole lot of slack , needless to say the end of the harness came right out minus the sensors. This is where the single harness branched into 2 and the spliced into the ends and had shield wire connected to the sensors on both runs . But after some more research the harness comes like that from factory, lmao it had electrical tape all over it and for some reason spliced into the runs near the bottom separating shield and hot then taped back up, seemed like a last minute idea or something. Thanks for your help 👍🏼. Oh btw i did not even do the relocate . Where i disconnected harness i inserted a 1/2 watt 560k resistor , one for each wire and that was a wrap.
Thanks. Just replaced head gaskets in Nissan Frontier. Then got this code. I would rather have left the code in then take all that back off. What a pain in the ass. Poor design. Since I found this I’ve ordered the kit. Oem part and fixing to install now. Appreciate ya
I have the 99 3.3. Sometimes that code will set, most times right now I can go for miles, days, weeks. Its intermittent on mine. Should I try plugs wires cap and rotor button replacement first? Mine uses NO OIL between 3000 miles oil changes so that eliminates rings and such. Runs great when banging on all 6. About 17 to 19 MPG, a little better on trips, which is nominal for that sled.
@@KensStuff Great Video, I have a 2004 nissan xterra i'm planning to relocate the knock sensor can you give me a link where i can buy the wire connector thank you so much
@@Pradelo I don't remember the sellers name of company but i just did a search on Ebay for he wiring harness and the knock sensor. they came from different sellers. but a simple search should find it for you.
@@Pradelo it's actuality a single wire lead. the outer metallic aluminum foil looking stuff is just shielding for electrical interference. you use the center wire to hook to the knock sensor. you can see in the video only one wire is used. I checked the wiring diagram
Awesome video, just a question, Do you just tape those extra strands of coaxial cable to the harness? It doesn't look like it got wired to anything like you said. Just curious. Thank you!
once you cute the wires take the one to the old knock sensor and lay it off to the side you won't be using it for anything from this point forward. you will splice into the wires left going back to the ecm / pcm
The sensor was placed between the banks of cylinders for a reason. There is the place where the sensor is able to benefit from acoustics of the combustion events and not generate false positive results of detonation due to other mechanical noises. Knock sensors are 'tuned' to the normal acoustics of the engine they are designed for. That's why they have so many different part numbers from the OEM. Generic KSs are crap and will not reliably detect detonation. Installing the sensor on the intake may prevent the code from setting, but it won't protect your engine from damage due to detonation that will be undetected with the knock sensor in an acoustically dead area. Also, if you install the sensor somewhere that generates too much vibration/soundwaves, it may cause the ignition timing to be retarded and the fuel delivery may increase to cancel the perceived detonation. The code 34 is generally set when the connection at the sensor gets dirty or rodents chew up the wiring.
I understand your concern but if your unfortunate enough to own one of these turds you get tired of fixing the SEL issues. Mine has constantly Given problems since about 90 000 miles. They are miserable to work on and if it's not rusted out your lucky.
Hey Ken! I was wondering if i could relocate the knock sensor on my 03 infiniti m45 being that its really a nissan and everything seems to be in the same place?
I've never worked on one. but if it's the same engine i would think the wiring would be the same so I'm guessing you should be able to do the sensor relocation. if you find your sensor takes two wires then just hook up both but most only use 1 wire the outer covering is just a shield.
Ok Thanks have not seen the plug yet but the new sensor has two prongs. Also there are two sensors down in that valley in my car but its very similar looking, not sure about engines though mines a v8 i dont know if maximas are 8a or not. Well we shall see thatnks
@@TrendingNorth I did a little checking, you have a left and a right bank knock sensors so you have two knock sensors. i don't know if they run into the wire harness and join together of stay separate all the way to the ecm. you may be able to open the wire harness up and see if they join or stay separate. the knock sensor on mine had 2 prongs but only one was used. i looking it up in the shop manual wiring diagram.
they can cause a variety of problems. really depends on the vehicle and computer. i have a 99 ford 4.2 that doesn't care if the knock sensor is there or not. mice chewed through the wires and i didn't know it, till i pulled the engine.
Relocating the knock sensor is a terrible idea - It's on the iron block close to the pistons for a very good reason. All you will accomplish is turning off the check engine light, at the cost of crippling the sensors ability to protect your engine from pre ignition damage. That's like a doctor putting the stethoscope on your shoulder to check your heart.
you tube doesn't let me know when i get comments most the time. i have to going in and check. and it's time consuming. so yeah some times I'm slow. i'm not getting paid for any of this. so it's got to happen when i got the time.
@@KensStuff I think your video was pretty well done considering you are not a CZcams professional. You also have pretty good responses to even the negative comments. Shows you are a good dude.
@@briankindley4859 thanks i guess i'm a small enough channel i don't get a lot of negative comments. i have to admit i try to do things in one shot. not the best way but i get my message across without spending hrs doing it over and over.
I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier 3.3L and did this yesterday and it worked. Truck idles better, smoother acceleration and no check engine light. This video helped a lot. Thanks VERY much for taking the time to help guys like me out.
You're very welcome I'm glad it helped.
How did you clear the check engine light???
Thank you Ken I've been having a hard time finding a detailed enough video to be able to accurately fix my pathfinder and this was a big help
Very welcome
Best Tutorial on this I've seen so far. Very Helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks! 👍
I watched your video to help me fix the KS on my ‘99 Pathfinder. At this point in my learning process it seems the relocation of the wiring is recommended when taking on this job.
Thanks for sharing ,
Trust me this is one of the best KS relocation video out there .
Love from Iraq 🇮🇶 , sorry my English is not good .
thanks. i try. it got a bit long but i wanted to over explain it.
Thanks for the video 👍
I hope it could be some help to ya.
Well done ken 👏 👍 😀
thanks Em trying to come up with a bit better content and still working on the camera work. :)
Thanks Ken! Yeah at first i was like damn someone has already been in here doing what im doing because the harness leads right to the back of the intake manifold well as i was disconnecting the harness just before it goes deep into hell i got a whole lot of slack , needless to say the end of the harness came right out minus the sensors. This is where the single harness branched into 2 and the spliced into the ends and had shield wire connected to the sensors on both runs . But after some more research the harness comes like that from factory, lmao it had electrical tape all over it and for some reason spliced into the runs near the bottom separating shield and hot then taped back up, seemed like a last minute idea or something. Thanks for your help 👍🏼. Oh btw i did not even do the relocate . Where i disconnected harness i inserted a 1/2 watt 560k resistor , one for each wire and that was a wrap.
With the two sensors I just didn't know. I'm glad you found a work around on it. I hope others see your way of fixing it.😊
Great video! Ty
Thanks. Just replaced head gaskets in Nissan Frontier. Then got this code. I would rather have left the code in then take all that back off. What a pain in the ass. Poor design. Since I found this I’ve ordered the kit. Oem part and fixing to install now. Appreciate ya
Glad it could help.
I have the 99 3.3. Sometimes that code will set, most times right now I can go for miles, days, weeks. Its intermittent on mine. Should I try plugs wires cap and rotor button replacement first? Mine uses NO OIL between 3000 miles oil changes so that eliminates rings and such. Runs great when banging on all 6. About 17 to 19 MPG, a little better on trips, which is nominal for that sled.
Ken man, thanks !!! Great video
thanks for the compliment. glad you liked it. i hope it was helpful.
@@KensStuff Great Video, I have a 2004 nissan xterra i'm planning to relocate the knock sensor can you give me a link where i can buy the wire connector thank you so much
@@Pradelo I don't remember the sellers name of company but i just did a search on Ebay for he wiring harness and the knock sensor. they came from different sellers. but a simple search should find it for you.
@@KensStuff as i understand left side of the knock sensor is positive and the right side will be the ground
@@Pradelo it's actuality a single wire lead. the outer metallic aluminum foil looking stuff is just shielding for electrical interference. you use the center wire to hook to the knock sensor. you can see in the video only one wire is used. I checked the wiring diagram
do you have to do the bit about splicing? can you just replace the knock sensor and plug the OE line back in? Or am I missing something.
Okay thanks you
Awesome video, just a question, Do you just tape those extra strands of coaxial cable to the harness? It doesn't look like it got wired to anything like you said. Just curious. Thank you!
👍👍👌
Hope this works for me I’m going to try in the morning I haven’t been able to get rid of this rough idle and engine code so let’s see what happens 😊
When splicing into the existing, do you splice to the (cut end) going towards the vehicle? Or the (cut end) towards the engine(old knock sensor)?
once you cute the wires take the one to the old knock sensor and lay it off to the side you won't be using it for anything from this point forward. you will splice into the wires left going back to the ecm / pcm
Thanks
Why YOU disconnect 1 plug and cut the other wire. Where you get de conector wire from. Somebody explain please
The sensor was placed between the banks of cylinders for a reason. There is the place where the sensor is able to benefit from acoustics of the combustion events and not generate false positive results of detonation due to other mechanical noises. Knock sensors are 'tuned' to the normal acoustics of the engine they are designed for. That's why they have so many different part numbers from the OEM. Generic KSs are crap and will not reliably detect detonation. Installing the sensor on the intake may prevent the code from setting, but it won't protect your engine from damage due to detonation that will be undetected with the knock sensor in an acoustically dead area. Also, if you install the sensor somewhere that generates too much vibration/soundwaves, it may cause the ignition timing to be retarded and the fuel delivery may increase to cancel the perceived detonation. The code 34 is generally set when the connection at the sensor gets dirty or rodents chew up the wiring.
I understand your concern but if your unfortunate enough to own one of these turds you get tired of fixing the SEL issues. Mine has constantly Given problems since about 90 000 miles. They are miserable to work on and if it's not rusted out your lucky.
Hey Ken! I was wondering if i could relocate the knock sensor on my 03 infiniti m45 being that its really a nissan and everything seems to be in the same place?
I've never worked on one. but if it's the same engine i would think the wiring would be the same so I'm guessing you should be able to do the sensor relocation. if you find your sensor takes two wires then just hook up both but most only use 1 wire the outer covering is just a shield.
Ok Thanks have not seen the plug yet but the new sensor has two prongs. Also there are two sensors down in that valley in my car but its very similar looking, not sure about engines though mines a v8 i dont know if maximas are 8a or not. Well we shall see thatnks
@@TrendingNorth I did a little checking, you have a left and a right bank knock sensors so you have two knock sensors. i don't know if they run into the wire harness and join together of stay separate all the way to the ecm. you may be able to open the wire harness up and see if they join or stay separate. the knock sensor on mine had 2 prongs but only one was used. i looking it up in the shop manual wiring diagram.
Thanks ?👊🏼
Does a bad knock sensor just cause rough idle and stalling? Will it usually always throw a code also?
they can cause a variety of problems. really depends on the vehicle and computer. i have a 99 ford 4.2 that doesn't care if the knock sensor is there or not. mice chewed through the wires and i didn't know it, till i pulled the engine.
Tengo el mismo problema en mi nissan motor 3.3 año 2000
where did you buy knock sensor and harness ? thanks
i don't remember the name of the sellers. i got them off of ebay. from different sellers.
Hi Ken's. I want to ask if the pathfinder 3.3 has one or two knock sensors I appreciate your answer in advance. Greetings from Argentina. 👍
Just the one.
@@KensStuff gracias
Where do you get the harness from ?
I found it on Ebay. don't remember from who. i looked at about 6 of them and they was all the same design.
did you have any issues with smogging it? ours was turned away because it wasn't in the original location.
we don't have that where i'm at. sorry.
You need to find a different inspection place.
Relocating the knock sensor is a terrible idea - It's on the iron block close to the pistons for a very good reason. All you will accomplish is turning off the check engine light, at the cost of crippling the sensors ability to protect your engine from pre ignition damage. That's like a doctor putting the stethoscope on your shoulder to check your heart.
I did this it didnt fix anything
sorry it didn't fix your problem. then again i don't know what your problem is or was.
@@KensStuff code knock sensor circuit 1 , although I don’t believe I used a long enough bolt oh well sold it now
You are super slow
you tube doesn't let me know when i get comments most the time. i have to going in and check. and it's time consuming. so yeah some times I'm slow. i'm not getting paid for any of this. so it's got to happen when i got the time.
@@KensStuff no I mean your video was too slow to get to the point lmao.
@@AtTheHandle ok. have a good week.
@@KensStuff I think your video was pretty well done considering you are not a CZcams professional. You also have pretty good responses to even the negative comments. Shows you are a good dude.
@@briankindley4859 thanks i guess i'm a small enough channel i don't get a lot of negative comments. i have to admit i try to do things in one shot. not the best way but i get my message across without spending hrs doing it over and over.