Black Tie 🤵, Tuxedo Shirts, Do's and Don'ts, And More - Q&A 26 | Kirby Allison
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- čas přidán 25. 10. 2018
- In this video, Kirby Allison replies to several of the questions and comments asked by our CZcams Audience with a theme of Black Tie. We love hearing back from our customers and audience and shortly after this video airs, we will attempt to reach out to all commenters featured in this video with a complimentary pair of our Sovereign Grade dress shoe laces. If your question or comment was featured in this video, please reach out to our customer service team to receive your shoelaces.
Furthermore, if you have any questions for us in the future, please let us know in our CZcams comment sections for a chance to be featured in a video like this one.
#KirbyAllison #BlackTie #BowTie #BlackTieShoes
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Questions featured in this video:
(0:57): What company would make or sell a patent leather dress shoe for black tie with a rubber sole?
(3:07): Can you wear a patent leather jodhpurs tods boots?
(4:16): Do you recommend studs in gold or silver? For the stone, do you recommend onyx or mother of pearl?
(5:25): Can I wear a dinner jacket if I don't have a tuxedo jacket?
(7:21): Any rules about tuxedo shirts with many pleats in the front?
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The story of The Hanger Project: www.kirbyallison.com/about-us/ - Jak na to + styl
So from what I learned here, James Bond broke nearly all the black tie rules. 😂
You are quite right, assassinating the host is frowned upon in many social circles. M.
Yes
Yes. People who say "James Bond did it" forget that they are looking at a movie character, dressed by a costumer, to appeal to the audience, not lead them. In the '60s Sean Connery's Bond was the one dressed most appropriately.
I like pleats over a more minimalist shirt. Regular white dress shirts can be worn with every suit outfit. However how often do you get to wear something unique like a tuxedo shirt? All the bells and whistles for me 😉
Pleated shirts with studs is the perfect shirt anything else is much more common ,just not as sophisticated ,glamorous on a Cunard cruise on formal night ,just love it.
I think this is your best Q&A yet. It's funny that black tie is so daunting for most men. I think in fact that it is quite simple, as long as you stick to the basics as you have so eloquently laid out.
Myles Kusab Totally agree. The mistake men make is that they feel they have to do something different to stand out and look good, when in fact the best thing one can do to look good is the most simple: follow the rules. They came about because they are simply the tried and true rules to guarantee you’ll look your best.
I like to wear a traditional boiled front (smooth cotton, not Marcella) shirt as would have been traditionally worn with black and white tie prior to the 1930s. You'd be surprised how comfortable they really are despite the reputation for discomfort and I find that you can actually pull off quite a contemporary look with one. Either a stiff turndown or stiff wing collar can be attached and nothing quite beats the completely stiff, flat bosom that these shirts achieve. Before that, I used to wear a Marcella bibbed shirt with studs and a turndown collar - the standard here in Britain.
Regards, Burn-A-Briar
Great Q&A Kirby. excellent topics.
Dear Kirby, Thank you for your Q&A on the Black Tie etiquette. There is nothing more important than being properly dressed and presented. Whether you know everyone at the party or not, make them remember you - with the right and proper outfit. There are many out there who would benefit on the proper dinner table behaviour and etiquette; i.e., which fork for the entrée, which spoon for dessert/coffee, etc. I'm sure you are on the ball when it comes to dinner parties. Let's broadcast it! Looking forward to more of your videos.
About etiquette, any good restaurant will only bring out the appropriate silverwear for the relevant dish and nothing more... If you have more than you need for the current course, then the service staff has utterly failed...
If i had a vintage tux I'd totally wear it, regardless of what anyone thinks. Now I'm going to have to keep an eye out for one! My primary black tie events are campaign dinners and playing with the local orchestra, so not very snooty
Hi Kirby, I am going to my first opera this Sunday. I wish I would have purchased all the needed items for black events. I will wear my dark charcoal suit with a white shirt and black cap toe shoes. I don’t know if I will like the opera but I think this will give me a chance to raise the bar on my wardrobe and get me out of my comfort zone which I think all men should do from time to time. I will start purchasing these items as I know I will find opportunities to wear them! Think I will start with a black bow tie and learn to tie it!
What did you think?
@@eliegbert8121 - I recall I did not use any tie at all. I was one of the best dressed men at the event, my date, she was very impressed! I liked the intermission so we could get a drink. I did not know that they would have a screen with the words displayed. I would go again
@@MrJamescord cool! I’m glad it went well
Your suit matchs the wall.
Gentlemen camoflauge for the win!
I think the person asking if Dinner Jackets were acceptable is referring to odd dinner jackets, a classic example would be the ivory (as in the colour) dinner jacket.
shoes laces, how exciting!!!
That blue Suit is perfect for your skin tone
Thank you!
Mother of pearl buttons on a tuxedo shirt are certainly appropriate, and some of the best shirtmakers out there have been offering such shirts for decades. James Bond has worn such shirts in many films, including the very early films, made in the 60's, in which you can see real classic British tailoring from the middle of the century.
Speaking of shirt fronts, it feels that a bib pique front looks more formal than pleated front, as it's the same kind of front you find on white-tie shirts. So, perhaps, it's best to wear a low-cut black silk waistcoat and studs with a bib-front shirt. A pleated front shirt may look fine with buttons and without one wearing any waist covering (again, James Bond style).
For me dinner jacket means offwhite jacket or velvet jacket. It is also black tie, the same formality as tuxedo.
Great choices, not so sure about the Pumps though....my grandmother loved them.
Black tie event sounds awfully boring though, unless youll bring dyed blow
I have a nice vintage marcella shirt for white tie. I reckon it can be used for black tie too, what do you think?
Hello Kirby, are you planning to make more videos on fountain pens? I would be interested in learning, for instance, about nib sizes and ink colors appropriate for different situations (signing a contract vs writing a note, for example). And in general, I would appreciate a video on writing accessories, including paper etc. Thank you for your inspirational videos. Cheers!
Julia Antonova Something to consider! In the meantime, check out Goulet Pens. They have a huge body of content about fountain pens.
@ Kirby Allison what brand of Tuxedo are you wearing? I really like the jacket and peak lapels. Very sharp!
As I find myself in White Tie far far more than I find myself in Black tie (~15+ times per year vs. 2-3 times per year), When I need to wear black tie, I usually just take my white-pique-bib, detachable collar shirt, and put a turn-down-collar on it. I find this looks sharpl and avoids my having to own an additional style of shirt.
Ryan Lee Waldron What on earth are you doing that finds you in white tie 15 times a year?
Kirby Allison Carnival Balls and Débutant presentations here in New Orleans are strictly formal costume de rigueur events. Those 15+ events all occur between the night before thanksgiving and Ash Wednesday. I know people (typically, Captains of some of the krewes) who might top out 20.
Ryan Lee Waldron Ah, that makes sense. Indeed, New Orleans is the only place left in America where white tie is regularly worn. I have a good friend who goes down there every year.
@@kirbyallison If you're ever looking for an excuse to cross the state line and put on White Tie, I could see to it that you receive an invitation to the ball of one of the groups to which I belong.
With regards to the shirts, I prefer a marcella bib over pleats. Most pleats just look like too much to me. I di, however, find an Eton blackk tie shirt in a charity shop made to resemble pleats. It had additional narrow strips of fabric sewn down the front of the bib. It doesn't fit that well, so I'm tempted to have the bib taken out and used in making a bespoke shirt.
Interesting!
“In a charity shop”. Excellent branding! [If it was you,] You deserve a BIG bonus from ‘Thrift Industries ‘by elevating the customer base by changing a single word.
No brogueing? I just got a pair of AE Vernons in black which are adelaides which is about as close as I can afford to whole-cuts. Not exactly brogued, there are two subtle rows of perforations that delineate a toe "cap". I just love the contour of the last they're built on, they slightly suggest a spade sole.
I wear pleated front. Mostly because traditionally, a shirt was a undergarment and showing it was not acceptable. Black tie and white tie shirts however, had textured chests. White tie has that little stiffer fabric and for me, a pleated shirt feels best in a black tie event
What books do you have in the background? It's hard to see, I can see the Parisian Gentlemen, but that's about it. Any good books you recommend for gentlemanly etiquette and such?
my etiquette bookshelf includes books by Debrett's, William Hanson, Charles Macpherson & Stanley Ager. Can't go to far wrong with any books by these authors. :D
Sir, would wearing a plain black dinner/tuxedo for a wedding be appropriate? Fall wedding, evening. I don’t want to be over dressed. Thanks
Hi Kirby
Just a quick question on wearing military medals on my dinner jacket, is it the done thing to do or not ?
Regards
R R
Hi Kirby, I am doing my first bespoke black tie, I am confusing about how many button should be on the jacket's sleeve cuff. I say there are one and there are four
Fantastic information which lapel would be most appropriate to wear for black tie peak shawl or notch thank for sharing the information.
never notch, The traditional is peaked, but shawl is just as fine
Tuxedo jackets are traditionally either a peal lapel (most common) or shawl. Notch lapel is not traditionally appropriate.
Again, I'm Kirby Allison.
Creampolish
I'm just not a fan of fully satin lapels. I prefer some satin on the lapel like an accenting stripe of it. I do require a peak collar however.
I particularly favour the style of black tie. Would it be disrespectful or offputting if I wear it more regularly and outside black tie events?
@Spaghetti King - I’d be careful; you may be mistaken for a waiter or a butler/man-servant.
What if I reverse the colors of my tuxedo? jacket, dress pants, waistcoat, and bowtie all in ivory color matched with inner pleated shirt, pocket square, and patented leather shoes all in black.
of course I will wear this at a formal lunch party instead of dinner.
What should one wear for afternoon tea? M.
When you showed the slip on shoes modeled,I noticed the socks were sheer,any idea what brand they were?
@Gregory Reed - probably from his own store, The Hanger Project.
Is it true that the proper way of wearing socks is to wear them according to the color of the pants? or the color of the shoe? Thank you.
Helen Gomez The proper way to wear socks is to match or compliment them to the color of the trousers. The idea is that when the trousers rise, the socks shouldn’t disrupt the visual line of the leg as it extends to the shoe.
Okay, so now I’m confused. Here you are taking a strong stance against showing mother of pearl buttons on the front of the shirt. However, I see evening shirts made by Turnbull & Asser and Emma Willis that have the buttons on display.
@Rev. James C - I see your point. I’m struck by how many designers produce tuxedo jackets with notched lapels, flap-pockets, 2 buttons (single-breasted, and single/double-vents. Could be that Hollywood and its celebrities have destroyed “the code?!”
What do you think of colorful tuxedo jacket? I mean orange velvet tux (like in Kingsman 2), or a classic Tom Ford green or red velvet tux jacket?
Worthy of burning, not worthy of wearing unless as some sort of joke.
Traditionally, these would be smoking jackets worn at home, and not worn out at any formal event.
You’d look like a cheap cabaret act. Velvet is for smoking jackets, that are only worn at home.
@@kirbyallison I know that the video its a little old. but those midnight blue or navy tuxedos. are an option or just a big no no. or just for a semi formal event
i may come off as a snob but i firmly believe a black tie outfit should always include opera pumps and no other type of shoe for me its the best shoe for that, also dont get me started on rubber soles, oh dear... im proud to say that none of my shoes have rubber soles in fact formal shoes with those tractor type thick soles should be a crime against humanity haha,
PS: i would like to disagree with you on the ruffled shirts, if tailored right (not the polyester ones that are usually sold online) are really nice some times cheerio Kirby
Is it still appropriate to wear stiff fronted dress shirts?
Pleated front shirt from me.
For Black Tie Shirts: Monogram or No Monogram?
I love the tuxedolook, a lot. I 've never in my live been invited to a party that requires one though. If you like me and on a budget, I would just buy a simple 100% cotton semi-spread french cuff white shirt without studs or pleats and the front buttons hidden away. It will also double as a white shirt to wear with a necktie with your navy business suit.
But if money is no issue and you get inveted for black tie parties more often, I would go for wing-tips, studs and pleats, I do like the glam of that style.
I love bigger bow ties. It gives me more of a rock n' roll feeling, I don't know why. Maybe everyone else wears regular size so I feel like a rebel. Larger bow ties just don't look as nerdy.
I wonder if you can stick a bow tie to your dress shoes? 🤩
@Truthseeker - not if you wear opera-pumps; the bow is built in.
How do you manage to keep your shirts tucked in all day without them puffing out?
Luke Richards Purchase longer ones.
Wondering whats up with the chanel's name change?
Part of an eventual brand transition. The CZcams channel is really an opportunity for me to personally connect with our audience. HangerProject.com will transition, at some point, to KirbyAllison.com and Hanger Project (garment care), Wellington (shoe brushes), and Sovereign Grade (clothing accessories) will live under this umbrella.
Kirby, I the re-frame for the growth of your business, good move!
Can I wear a pleated shirt with suspenders??
Yes, I would recommend the look but get evening braces in black or white not normal runner end braces.
I see my DJ as partay clothes. M.
This man, Kirby Allison, keeps on following me on Instagram and then unfollows me right after I follow him back haha. What's up with that? Weird flex, but great vids, so I guess that's okay.
Miyuki Zoku Sorry. Instagram auto-follow app.
first
Good work!
😟 Even on a channel like this people do that?😒
What about a pair of horsebit loafers with gold details?
With black tie? Never!
They would go well with a tom ford velvet jacket with wide peak lapels... And a pair of dark grey flannel high waisted dress pants!
Maybe for Creative Black Tie or Black Tie Optional, but that's starting to stray from the classicly dapper spirit of traditional black tie.
Yes. Never. A horsebit loafer is incredibly casual. I, personally, don't think they should even ever be worn with a suit.
The baron de redy design with a the horsebit loafer "Gucci" hardware Would be suitable.. with a slight flair though HAHA!
The Hanger Project is too expensive.
Too expensive for what?
Everything. You overprice virtually everything. Compare what you sell on the British website with that of ‘A Fine Pair of Shoes’. You charge almost double the price for the same shoe brushes. If one were to compare the price of all the shoe care products, you charge much more virtually every time. (I don’t have time to compare every product, but in every case you charge a great deal more.) I also remember you charging a stupid amount for collar stays, which could be found much cheaper at Turnbull & Asser. It’s quite shameful. :-/
I was impressed by the Kent CR8 brush you feature on your website. Very nice. But you charge £65 when they can be found for £50 or so. (I see you are out of stock, which shows there are people out there wearing blinkers that haven’t bothered to carry out a two second Google search.)
We’ll work on this. Pricing changes all the time in the UK. Difficult to keep up with.
It’s a shame because I wanted several of the Kent CR8 brushes. Actually, you charge more than £65. You charge £70 when shipping charges are added. The same brushes can be found for £52 and free shipping. From proper established businesses. Not some nonentity on eBay. Anyway, I have one brush that says ‘Hanger Product’. One of the large brushes. I wasn’t happy when I found the same brush, made by the same manufacturer, but with a different company name (A Fine Pair of Shoes) for half the price. :-/ Plus they have free shipping for any purchase over £10. Plus they have a 10% discount for orders over £100 for members of Style Forum. Surely your people in Britain can see all of this going on. Maybe they don’t care because they are doing well. Maybe I’m in a minority who actually bother to look around for a fair deal...
I disagree with the shirt and shoes.
Millennials are changing the rules with this.
Shirts, I have seen linen pleated in Australia in all colors that look amazing and hip.
Shoes, I have seen tennis shoes that are dressed up with patent leather that also look very techy.
This guy filming the episode while pretending to sift through the Titanic’s paper records