THE PERFECT BLACK TIE | TUXEDO OUTFIT
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- čas přidán 7. 12. 2023
- In this video your enigmatic host discusses the many aspects of the perfect black tie/tuxedo ensemble to consider this party season.
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#chapsguide #ashjones #mensstyle - Jak na to + styl
Opera Pumps are the peak of black or white tie footwear! I have a fresh velvet pair from Bowhill & Elliot that are simply beautiful and elegant as can be.
Thank you as always for these timely videos! I love hearing from you ☺️🔥🔥
The only thing I would add is, apart from shawl lapels, do use peak lapels. NEVER have notched lapels on a dinner suit.👍
The notch lapel dinner suit thing is interesting. It used to be acceptable, which is why Sean Connery's Bond wore it, but it was for less formal occasions & as black tie has become more formal over time it has fallen out of favour
@@Molach101 it just doesn't look right. Inmy opinion, wearing notch lapels is just as bad as wearing a pre-tied bow tie.
@@clivejohnson9515 I think it's because of modern-day associations - it now looks like an off-the-peg suit or cheap rental, but people used to have nice ones made on Saville Row. In the days when you wore a dinner jacket for dinner on a regular basis it was a step below a shawl collar dinner jacket in formality, rather like velvet dinner jackets today
Greetings I must say another wonderful truly informative video on black tie attire and accessories and I wholeheartedly agree with most of what you present...however I must respectfully disagree on the matter of wearing a cummerbund, it indeed is essential to the total look of wearing black tie the purpose is to accentuate the continue high rise look of your trousers, I just recently was invited to a black tie event this past summer (my 50th class reunion) and I along with several other gentleman who were in attendance all wore cummerbunds but once again I do appreciate your fine efforts in all you do to assist us on of sartorial journey!
As Ash basically said _"Optional"_ Like to cover a belt or business trousers!
Completely agree, a waist covering is de rigueur, either a waistcoat or a cummerbund. Not at all optional.
I absolutely agree with you on shoes, I’m not a fan of patent leather or pumps. A plain black Oxford/whole cut is the way for me too.
However, I believe that you should always wear a waist covering. I prefer an evening waistcoat to a cummerbund, but unless your jacket is double breasted, *something* is required to prevent the shirt peaking out below your jacket button.
I also believe black Wholecut Oxfords are a perfect option as well for footwear (shined of course)
This is an excellent video on the subject. Thanks, sir.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Ash as for watches remember Sean Connery wore a gold Gruen dress watch while in Black tie. Dr No. Cheers Ron
I would love to have a reason to wear black tie, but I can't think of any occasion I'll ever encounter that would allow it.
Good morning Ash. Another great chat about Black tie. I have seen one person wearing opera pumps Once. We usually attend the St Andrew's Ball and some men wear Highland dress and most wear military medals on tuxedo or Prince Charley jackets. When we had a change of watch or awards ceremony in the USCGA I always wore my mess dress. Best regards Ron
I like to wear a boutonniere as well with black tie. But I'm a bit on the traditional side and have a 3 piece black tie suit and opera pumps.
Dutch:maar dan geen pochet(is ook louter versiering)
I haven't been invited to a black tie event in 20 years. Wish I could attend one from time to time!
Local hospital charity ball.
Just wanted to say (haven't watched yet) that I've been away from CZcams, specifically sartorial CZcams, but I'm back and you're my go to, you've taught me things I wish my dad did, so thank you for all you've taught me, I have 9months of videos to catch up on!
4days laters, I've caught up on the last 9months! Thank you so much for your journey and wisdom, I have filled half a journal of notes and shopping lists, I'm set for 2024!
I agree with your video, but I would never skip the Cumberbund. It looks classy and elegant and distinguishes the outfit from a normal suit.
Thank you for your time and making this video
Glad it was helpful!
Did you not mention pleated shirts? Far less excessive than ruffled shirts yet still elegant...my favourite option.
Disagree about the cummerbund. I agree with the purists on this one; if one's jacket is single breasted, a waist covering of some kind is necessary.
As for shoes, I love the look of patent wholecuts, less archaic than pumps but more elegant than regular oxfords. I only wear mirror shined cap toe oxfords, however.
Slightly unrelated, what would be your view on a covered placket marcella shirt (with wing collar) for a white tie outfit?
Thanks for another great video. If I may respectfully disagree on something, it would be the cummerbund. Personally I think it’s absolutely essential for single-breasted jackets (although obviously redundant if wearing a horseshoe waistcoat or a double breasted suit). Thanks for the video, hope more and more people will get to learn the art of the black tie.🤵♂️
Agreed!
Agreed. Especially if you are shorter than average, wearing a cummerbund will give the illusion of being taller. Flat, or pleated is a personal choice, but if you go for pleated, you MUST wear the pleats facing upwards, so you can place theatre tickets/business cards and the like inside.
i love the cummerbund tbh. unfortunate that one can't wear it in another situation
Great video, as is usual, Ash.
Some notes:
Personally I find the entire monochromatic "black tie" can look a little tired. It helps to mix things up, just a scoshe, by adding in a little variation. I have a great black-on-black bow tie and matching cummerbund (more on that later) which adds just the tiniest bit of variation to the outfit. A silk knitted bow tie can do the same thing. It's a very small thing, but it's the sort of thing that separates a real gent from the guy serving the canapés.
Second: Studs make the difference between black tie, and really sharp black tie. They add, again, just the tiniest bit of contrast, and help define that space between the jacket lapels that's usually occupied by a necktie. As Ash noted, these should match the cufflinks. But wear studs, and buy formal shirts that can accommodate them.
Third: Cummerbunds. I've always been a huge fan of these, regardless of fashion, etc. A good (black) cummerbund helps define the male physique, and also does a good job of masking whatever you've got going on at the waistline. Fashion be damned. A well-dressed gent wears a properly fitted cummerbund. Pleats upwards, thank you very much.
Somewhat related: Don't wear a belt with black tie. Braces/suspenders are far superior from both aesthetic and functional standpoints. Have buttons sewn into your black-tie trousers, and pair with nice braces/suspenders, and you'll never worry about untucked shirts or drooping trouser cuffs. Nuff said.
Dropping a little further down the body: Buy some decent black silk socks. They aren't that expensive, and make a real difference. Money well spent.
Lastly: Outerwear. The last man who looked good pairing black tie with a tan raincoat was Humphrey Bogart. Wearing black tie under a puffer jacket just looks sad. Don't try. A black 3/4 length rain coat or wool overcoat is best. A boat cloak looks fantastic, but unless you are a naval officer, it's probably not a good idea. Pair it with a a black silk scarf with white polka dots, and you'll be the absolute schiznits as you stroll from your limousine to the lobby on those cold and wet winter evenings.
For those true vintage lovers, evening overcoats are a thing - a black, wool overcoat with silk facings and a single cloth button (or four if it's double-breasted). Modern, black Chesterfields can be accommodated into an evening overcoat with a good tailor.
@@themoderndandy713 : Good call on the vintage silk-faced formal overcoat! I guess vintage or bespoke are the only options if you want this look, as I can't seem to find any ready-to-wear examples.
As a side note: I do wish us English-speaking chaps could come up with universally acceptable words for braces/suspenders and waistcoats/vests. Because both of those words mean very different things on either side of the Atlantic. And let's not even get started on the word "pants"... LOL
Thank you for this. I get to wear black tie this weekend to see my daughter in the Nutcracker. I will get to use your tips.
The cummerbund thing is interesting, as they're not very common in the UK and haven't been since the 1960s apparently, but they held on in America. I think the main thing is the rule about waist coverings in black tie - "always have your waist covered" - either by a cummerbund or evening waistcoat, is a matter of practicality. If your jacket & trousers don't fit very well then you get a triangular gap of white shirt front showing between your waist and jacket button, but if you have a high enough rise and low enough buttoning stance i.e. it's tailored correctly the waist covering is unnecessary.
As one more point of interest - if you are not a fan of oxfords then formal derby/gibson shoes with two or three eyelets are also perfectly acceptable with black tie, especially in patent leather. They seem more common in continental Europe e.g. Vienna
Yes cummerbunds are still popular here in the US.
Had to attend a few black tie events in the mid 80s. Cummerbunds were worn by most of the men, not all, but most. That was in Wales. ... I must admit, my mother organised us, I didn't have a clue at the time.
Some spicy takes for a black tie video, especially RE: ditching a waist covering. Here in the US, it seems like the only two hard and fast rules anymore are 1) tie your tie, and 2) cover your waist.
Lovely refresher especially for the young novices out there, well done sir!
Glad you enjoyed it
Another great informative video Ash.
I'll be off to a black tie ceilidh in January. But being of Scottish persuasion I'll be donning kilt black tie ensemble. Only of two minds between a rouche tie and bow tie. Although tilting toward the bow.
Hello Ash, I mostly agree with the things you said in this video but ,as the chap “stylishoversixty” mentioned out before me, I definitely don’t agree on your opinion about the cummerbund a do thing that a waist covering is always necessary for black tie. I just wanted to add that the cummerbund is not the only way to do that in my opinion it looks really sartorial elegant to wear a low-cut gilet to a black tie event.
Best wishes and a splendid day to all those, who read this
My Opera shoes needed to be replaced after 11 years. This is the best up to date guide I have seen! Great work!!! I was having a hard time finding a closed laced patent leather shoe and opted for a Cole Haan capped toe open lace for the time being. I had my reservations, which is why I started searching for these videos. I also do not see any cummerbund's or pleated shirts anymore at the opera. If it's cold, I wear a vest and it matches the primary texture of the jacket. Two of the three operas in my area are during the colder months. The shiny vests seem to be for high school proms, where you match the vest to the ladys dress or weddings. As relaxed as the opera has become in my area, I sometimes opt for a shiny black tie that matches the lapel of the tuxedo jacket, but can go either way. Thanks for the excellent video!
Nice one Ash, less is more.
Regards,
Starlight
A grand speech for a long and forgotten time. Us men of business are to not conform to the, bland and melancholy modern fashion standards of hoodies and heavy joggers thanks for the speech my kind fellow i have only set out on my way of becoming a gentleman just like yourself. I hope for you to make more grand banquets of information for me and my fellow brethren, once again thank you.
A brilliant & “needs to be said” video
A few things that was forgotten ,NEVER EVER wear a belt with a dinner suit ,retailers are selling items like this (m&s etc..)
Sock etiquette & no loud obnoxious fragrances or fragrance spraying
Have a wonderful new year 🥂
Great video ash , I had to kit myself out recently for a Rolex event which was black tie , very smart outfit isn't it
I don't know if I've told you this story before, but there was a time I was late setting off for work and had to cycle in pretty quickly, my car was being serviced. I still had time to get a shower and change into my uniform when I arrived but was bemused to find that in my hurry to set off I'd packed the first shirt that was nicely folded on the shelf. It was a Marcella shirt that required studs. I managed to fashion a few fasteners from A4 paper strips rolled up but they gave up fairly quickly and more chest than is comfortable for an Englishman was on show! I'm known at work for always making sure my appearance is smart so my colleagues were a little surprised and very amused to see a louche version of me that day. I spent my shift being asked if I was doing a Roxy Music tribute or had come straight from an all-nighter at a casino!
I've heard that Opera pumps are normally worn after a wedding - reception - for like ball room type dancing! Also today we don't wear opera pumps to an opera but black capped Oxford or whole cut Oxfords
I think you may have overlooked the choice of collar - standard or wing-tip?
But I have my personal biases - I only wear standard collar - not wing tip (unless I'm in the groom's party, and wing tip is the collar proscribed). I NEVER wear patent leather shoes (in my mind, really "cheesy" looking) - only my real leather opera pumps shined to a mirror finish - not oxfords or other laced shoes either. I think the cummerbund is mandatory unless you wear a proper vest (also - the cummerbund has the hidden pocket slot on the right side for one's "opera tickets", which offers another visual color offset of the largely black tuxedo when the tickets peek out from the slot.
And finally, as most affairs occur in the fall or early winter, a topcoat and silk scarf (and hat- optional) may be needed, in which case, another video on etiquette and style might be offered by you. One should arrive and depart dressed properly too, excepting for severely inclement weather.
Cheers, Jim
Good to wear a opera pump shoes and waist cummerbund with wingtip collar shirt is pure unique uniform dressup for black tie event.. i think wear a black tie with classic vintage looks is elegant of craftmanships
If I would just pick 1 pair of shoes for Black Tie it would be a black cap toe oxfords.🤵🏻
In addition to all of the comments in favor of the wearing of the cumberbund, I think it prevents the trunk from appearing too elongated. I think it adds balance between the white of the shirt and the black of the trousers.
In regards of the pocket squares, Dean Martin usually stuffed a red silk pocket square in the breast pocket of his jacket, which really stands out.
Hello there,love your work and the effort you put in your content and I generally agree with most things that you say but black tie is black tie,just like the pre tied bow tie is a no no so are a few other thing that you mentioned.firstly shoes me be patent leather,a high shine toe cap really misses the mark,second a cummerbund or a horseshoe waistcoat is a must to complete the outfit and also pocket square needs to be a presidential fold.Braces are optional and would be a nice touch
Keep up the good work
Back in the days of renting tuxedos, I tried a midnight blue 3 piece for an event. I can’t lie…I liked it
(so did my wife 💪) and thought is was really good looking. Would I buy one??? Nope!
Opera pumps are for Bond villains. Velvet slips are a modern twist.
I retract my comment a few months ago about a
“How to” tie a bowtie video. My wife and I sat here watching this and she admitted to forgetting
“ How to”🤷🙄…..
I could not agree more.
I acquired a DB dinner suit from a charity shop for 14 of your English pounds sterling. I haven't worn it yet. I will team it though with a Marcella shirt, self-tie bow tie, george boots.
I have also just bought, from eBay, a mess dress style dinner jacket, for this I'll need a cummerbund.
May run black tie out to a wedding next week, or not.
I always fancied a motorised bowtie TBF 😁
🫡
Ebay is the home of much unwanted evening wear at outlandish prices. A chap's dream.
@@TheChapsGuide my latest jacket was £4.99
Dutch:de sjaalkraag is voor obers,presentatoren,quizmasters,croupiers en musici 😮
Dat mogen ze ook overdag dragen (alsook een polshorloge)
Bow tie snob!
Even hugo jacomet wouldnt say that, because he is a gentleman
Excellent Video! I have already acquired 99% of a tuxedo! The only part I need to buy when I can afford it is a silk bow tie! I have two current options, polyester _(self tie - not easy to tie)_ or a clip on! The idea of pleather shoes are nice, it have a pair from China _(with metal shank)_ and black capped Oxfords! I don't wear a waist coat with a tux and someone might think I'm the waiter!
Dutch:de ober heeft een sjaalkraag 😊
@@henrylemelay5436So does a gentleman wearing a tuxedo!
Plastic coated variations of patent leather are not very "sartorial". They are the equivalent of the pre-tied bowtie, in my opinion. Better to use a mirror shine on a pair of whole-cut oxfords.
Great video. Black tie events are even less common in the US., unfortunately. I can't imagine, hemce, investing in opera pumps. I would suggest that the quintessential classic watch is rectangular, gold frame, And few men wear hats these days, so ignoring that is fine.
I do like a formal vest, which is common in the US. Can's say I've seen a tuxedo worn without one or a cumberbund.
Good video. I picked up a black tie suit to practice doing alterations. I got the jacket, trousers, shirt and decent pre done bow tie for 15 quid. The shirt was too small and wing tip collar so got cut up for a pocket square (I've learned how to stitch the edge to make hand rolled edges, looks great with contrasting thread). Did the alterations, shortened sleeves , jacket length and trousers... then decided to narrow the trousers.. bit of a job with the grosgrain stripe down the side. I will get a cummerbund, we used to wear them when we went to black tie events years ago and I'll get a self tie bow... pre are for kids. My C&J CTOs are much nicer than Patent shoes.. so they're in. I would give it a test run at the casino but I don't do gambling... I suppose I could go and pinch the casino's free sandwiches!
I normally do!
pinch the sandwiches? ;) @@TheChapsGuide
An ivory silk scalf to complete the outfit.
Elegantly simple presentation of the subject, which is certainly appropriate. Can vests be worn with black tie outfits? If so, must they be black as well? I’m assuming the suspenders must be black or can they be white?
Usually waiters or servers wear waist coats. And if you chose to wear a waist coat it must be black, hence *_Black Tie!_* same with braces - Black unless the invitation says white tie - _rare today_
Questions are good! How would we learn!
I just have a hard time with patent leather shoes. Spit shined Balmoral oxfords. My personal choice for the facings of my back tie is fine grosgrain silk. Matching tie.
Question: boutonniere?
My personal opinion it depends if the jacket has a boutonniere hole or not! If yes, then may be, if not nom as it could damage the jacket!
Not bad but not perfected yet. It's all in the details and I like a nice boutonniere, studs, voile dress shirt, braces, a waistcoat or cummerbund, non-scruffy looking patent leather pumps and wooden shoe trees.
Dutch:en geen pochet !
Never a pre-tied bow tie. Never patent leather. Black, whole cut (not cap toe) oxfords. Never a cummerbund, unless your trousers have belt loops. Only a true dress watch (JLC Reverso, Cartier tank, PP Calatrava) on black leather or alligator strap. If you don’t have that, don’t wear a watch. Never a cell phone.
Hi Ash,
I was wondering if you could help me please?
Have you got any videos on chinos? I’m interested in how to pick out good quality chinos and more importantly, how to care for them with washing & ironing.
Currently I wear jeans in my daily casual wear and I would like to transition to chinos, however every pair of chinos that I’ve owned ends up looking faded, creased and generally very sorry for themselves in no time at all. I’m perfectly comfortable with washing & ironing other items of clothing, but not chinos.
I am a new sub and I think this channel is fantastic.
Many thanks
Kieran
Hi Kieran, the key is to wash only when required (not just as a matter of course). Aim to buy a good quality product in the first instance, as the better material used in quality items will always last best.
When it comes to washing - use the lowest possible temperature and turn the chinos inside-out to protect the colour fastness for as long as possible.
I have been applying these tricks for many years and have a good few chinos that are several years old and going strong.
@@TheChapsGuide much obliged, those are some things that I haven’t been doing. Thank you Ash, I bought you a coffee.
I’ve especially enjoyed your videos on Dents, I grew up in Warminster and live not very far away now.
The key rule of black tie has been omitted: that your waist needs to be covered - there's nothing that ruins the elegance of black tie more than a shirt puffing out from a waistband. One of either a waistcoat, cummerbund or double-breasted jacket is essential in order to be properly dressed for black tie.
In Texas, would it be acceptable to wear cowboy boots with Tuxedo?
As always - the answer is maybe - it entirely depends on the situation and the wishes of your host.
@@TheChapsGuide
Off course the host can request anything. My question has to do with what's socially acceptable.
What do you think about double breasted tuxedo jackets?
Works well for royalty - maybe too formal for most evening situations.