Thanks for all the great videos and help, I can't tell you how often I look up some info from you and I've been racing for 30 plus years! I have a 1955 Chevy Belair with a full tube chassis and the "builder" offset the engine towards the passenger side about an inch. I'm assuming for pinion offset on the ford 9" or possibly weight distribution. I was wondering how you feel about this? Any reason to move the brackets on the rear and set the engine back in the center? Thanks again for all your help.
HI TOM THANKS FOR ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO, IM BUILDING A 68 FIREBIRD LIKE TO DO A TUBE CHASSIS DO YOU SELL KITS IM 60 AND I THINK ITS A LITTLE LATE FOR ME TO BE INVESTING IN TUBE BENDERS ECT. YOUR WORK IS OUTSTANDING, AND WHEN IM NOT SURE I GO TO THE BEST,THANKS AGAIN TIM GREAT JOB
I’m building a 62 c10 and putting a 10.2 deck 8.1 496 in it. My understand is that’s going to be a lot of weight front of the center line. I like to bring the motor back a realistic number. I don’t want the motor sitting in my lap. Tim I noticed 3 simple variables. The crank is center of the frame and 10 inches from the ground. And the deck at 2 degree angle. My question is 🤔 how do you keep the motor low for the 10 inches and the 2 deg aa well the pinion angle. Because the closer you get to the rear end it going to be tough to keep to those specs.
Those cars don't have water in the engines. The blocks are solid and the top of the motor is cooled by a water to air intercooler and or the engines fuel which is usually methanol. And in the street car classes that do have radiators and water in the motor they usually don't have traditional water pumps that bolt to the engine. They're external And electric and look like a little turbo but it pumps water with just hoses screwed into the block with a.n fittings. And if you did want to run a traditional water pump on a engine plate car then the plate would have that area of the plate cut and machined out so the water pump would still bolt to the front of the block with regular gaskets.
i have older tube chassis car and the frame rails are 2x3 i only have the one tab on frame for mid plate. will that be ok if using motor plate and trans crossmember. car is setup now with engine mounts so i could leave those in also if needed
I would love to purchase a chassis from you, but you don't make one for my vehicle. Can I still get your assistance with placement if I call in with specifics?
Complete rollers generally range anywhere from $95,000 - $200,000. However, anyone with moderate fabrication skills can purchase our chassis kits ($2,395.00) along with a body and components which is all the same stuff we use in-house. This allows customers to complete a car themselves without any of the labor costs. Here is a great article on going the DIY route and shows what you can accomplish with the kits - www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/chassis-safety/world-class-on-a-budget-tmrcs-doorslammer-chassis-kits/
It'll be easiest to just base your frame off of a car chassis. Then you can build around the engine and transmission from there. It'll be hard to determine engine mount positions just from a picture, also varies from which engine and trans you decide to use.
I'm building a hairy glass 63 vett prostreet car.. would like to use one of your single rail chassis. . is it possible to have a frame build to my needs.
Yes it is Charles. We have built many HG '63's over the years and can provide a chassis kit, welded chassis or something finished a little further. You can find some more information on chassis kits and welded chassis here. timmcamis.com/shop/chassis/chassis-kits.html
door slammer is a long standing(like before Shawn was even born) nickname for the pro stock and pro modified cars to differentiate them from the floppers(the funny cars) and rails(the dragsters). used to be that funny cars still had doors, so when they went flopper, the pro stock and pro mod were/are the last "door slammers".
+blazer6248 Shawn was just visiting Tim's shop, I'm sure. You can visit somewhere without buying things. How else would you know whether you wanted a place to do work for you?
Shawn stopped by the shop to pick up some parts to use on the new Murder Nova. The car was built by Don Dial and uses a wide range of our kits and components.
What type of mid plate (chrome moly or aluminium) for a blown/alcohol car with 1800-2400 HP ? and what thickness? It is a dual frame rail outlaw 10.5" car,build video below Thank you. czcams.com/video/bBvIJemS9HI/video.html
Tim you build the best cars in the drag racing world!!!
Tim very informative thx for taking time to show us tricks of ur trade keith
Great videos!!!
Thankyou Sir. Very helpful indeed.😆😎👍
very nice. thanks for the video
Thanks for all the great videos and help, I can't tell you how often I look up some info from you and I've been racing for 30 plus years! I have a 1955 Chevy Belair with a full tube chassis and the "builder" offset the engine towards the passenger side about an inch. I'm assuming for pinion offset on the ford 9" or possibly weight distribution. I was wondering how you feel about this? Any reason to move the brackets on the rear and set the engine back in the center? Thanks again for all your help.
HI TOM THANKS FOR ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO, IM BUILDING A 68 FIREBIRD LIKE TO DO A TUBE CHASSIS DO YOU SELL KITS IM 60 AND I THINK ITS A LITTLE LATE FOR ME TO BE INVESTING IN TUBE BENDERS ECT. YOUR WORK IS OUTSTANDING, AND WHEN IM NOT SURE I GO TO THE BEST,THANKS AGAIN TIM GREAT JOB
I’m building a 62 c10 and putting a 10.2 deck 8.1 496 in it. My understand is that’s going to be a lot of weight front of the center line.
I like to bring the motor back a realistic number. I don’t want the motor sitting in my lap.
Tim I noticed 3 simple variables. The crank is center of the frame and 10 inches from the ground. And the deck at 2 degree angle.
My question is 🤔 how do you keep the motor low for the 10 inches and the 2 deg aa well the pinion angle. Because the closer you get to the rear end it going to be tough to keep to those specs.
I've heard that the drive shaft should have some angle in it. in the video he says it is in line with the rear end
wonder how much it would cost to get one of the doorslammer chassis for a 2 door shortbed 108 wheelbase s10 built ?
wolfgang beacham maybe around 160
I'm new to engine plates... do you use any sealant or gasket between the plate and the engine on the water pump holes? Or just straight bolt 0n?
Those cars don't have water in the engines. The blocks are solid and the top of the motor is cooled by a water to air intercooler and or the engines fuel which is usually methanol. And in the street car classes that do have radiators and water in the motor they usually don't have traditional water pumps that bolt to the engine. They're external And electric and look like a little turbo but it pumps water with just hoses screwed into the block with a.n fittings. And if you did want to run a traditional water pump on a engine plate car then the plate would have that area of the plate cut and machined out so the water pump would still bolt to the front of the block with regular gaskets.
i have older tube chassis car and the frame rails are 2x3 i only have the one tab on frame for mid plate. will that be ok if using motor plate and trans crossmember. car is setup now with engine mounts so i could leave those in also if needed
I would love to purchase a chassis from you, but you don't make one for my vehicle. Can I still get your assistance with placement if I call in with specifics?
We'll do our best to help however we can! Thanks!
When you buy a chasis kit is all the tubing pre knocked
Pre-bent. No notching.
how much does one of the cars cost to build?
Complete rollers generally range anywhere from $95,000 - $200,000. However, anyone with moderate fabrication skills can purchase our chassis kits ($2,395.00) along with a body and components which is all the same stuff we use in-house. This allows customers to complete a car themselves without any of the labor costs. Here is a great article on going the DIY route and shows what you can accomplish with the kits - www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/chassis-safety/world-class-on-a-budget-tmrcs-doorslammer-chassis-kits/
Trick
If i build the chassis and take a picture of it and e-mail it 2 u will u be able to tell me where to put the engine
It'll be easiest to just base your frame off of a car chassis. Then you can build around the engine and transmission from there. It'll be hard to determine engine mount positions just from a picture, also varies from which engine and trans you decide to use.
I'm building a hairy glass 63 vett prostreet car.. would like to use one of your single rail chassis. . is it possible to have a frame build to my needs.
Yes it is Charles. We have built many HG '63's over the years and can provide a chassis kit, welded chassis or something finished a little further. You can find some more information on chassis kits and welded chassis here. timmcamis.com/shop/chassis/chassis-kits.html
Is this the build for MurderNova? The nickname Door Slammer has got me wondering.
I was about to say the same until he said bbc and power glide combo
door slammer is a long standing(like before Shawn was even born) nickname for the pro stock and pro modified cars to differentiate them from the floppers(the funny cars) and rails(the dragsters). used to be that funny cars still had doors, so when they went flopper, the pro stock and pro mod were/are the last "door slammers".
His car is done. Built by another shop in OK. Shawn has the car in his possession but it's not ready yet.
+blazer6248 Shawn was just visiting Tim's shop, I'm sure. You can visit somewhere without buying things. How else would you know whether you wanted a place to do work for you?
Shawn stopped by the shop to pick up some parts to use on the new Murder Nova. The car was built by Don Dial and uses a wide range of our kits and components.
What type of mid plate (chrome moly or aluminium) for a blown/alcohol car with 1800-2400 HP ?
and what thickness?
It is a dual frame rail outlaw 10.5" car,build video below Thank you.
czcams.com/video/bBvIJemS9HI/video.html
Not one F-bomb Tim? Disappointing.