2x Extreme Overpressure!! Parasitic Load! A/C not working
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I didn't expect a video today. Thought you'd be summoned by NASA to fix the SLS Artemis
Whoever tightened that Artemis engine valve didn't go "click"
Huston we have a problem James did not do the click click like Rayman told him to mission abort
The gravity switch is stuck in the on position, it needs a constant 1.21 jiga~watts across the relay "FC" to send it back to the MOON.
"Rocket surgury"
Right
Ray working on his personal rig reminds me of the time I saw my lawyer downtown last winter, it was so cold that he had his hands in his own pockets !!!!
Ha!
a 3-snorter!!
Hey man I just wanted you to know I love you're videos me and my papa sat around and watched them over the weekends and we enjoyed watching you I just lost him today thank you
Yep I lived in Clearwater Florida for 23 years, and in that part of the world a working A/C is nice to have!!
Ray: Don't use dye, it plugs the systems, use an AC sniffer, also change the metering device, extremely easy to change, the interior of some AC hoses clogs the strainer of the metering device. I have done AC work for over 50 yrs and this should solve the issue, GM's metering device often plug, also a desicant bag may have broken plugging the system. Thanks for the video.
I completely understand about pulling the dash. Had to do it on my '12 RAM in the middle of summer to change out the evap core. Took me two days to do it in my apartment complex parking lot. Also on those older trucks, the plastic gets pretty brittle from the sun and it's really easy to wind up with pieces coming off in your hands while disassembling it.
Than you !! I have always been mechanically inclined and can fix just about any thing. My weakness has been technical troubleshooting with cars. Your videos and expertise have helped me so much! I also love your sense of humor. keep them coming. Thank you.
We had a 2005 Yukon Denali in Arizona, dash controls looked just like Ray's truck, and the AC worked great. Now we've upgraded to a 2011 Yukon Denali, and it's AC works great. So much better than older models with R4 compressors !!!
12:20 when my favorite garage wanted to do something behind the dash, they asked me for permission to let an intern do it. Of course I let them, nice learning opportunity, asked if they'd take pictures.
A dashboard cover hides a lot of stuff I can tell you 🤣.
Love ya videos bro endless hours of interesting stuff to watch and so much to learn. Thank you.
I'm always amazed at how quiet those Duramax diesels are. It runs like a whisper inside a library.
Extremely helpful! AC repair costs so damn much so anyone who will show me how to diagnose them myself is a friend indeed
Depending on your vehicle, just replacing everything other than the evaporator (because of having to pull the dash) would likely be cheaper than taking it to a shop to diagnose and replace the bad part. I recently did this in my '01 2500HD, it has 376k miles so I said eff it, new compressor, lines, condenser, receiver drier, flushed the evaporator and now I'm not going to worry about it anymore for ~$500'ish in parts total.
Guages and a vac pump from harbor freight are well worth the money, mine have paid for themselves several times over already.
Very nice improvement from the beginning to the end of the video hopefully the blockages don't get continually worse Ray @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I've back flushed my heater core when the dang dexcool clogged it up but I've never thought of back flushing my evap core. Ray you've opened a can of worms today!
That's one of the reasons you don't you stop leak on a cooling system and I think gray is going in the right direction he'll figure it out he knows what he's doing have a nice day
Ray's bartender pour is impressive
I always enjoy your videos... thanks so much for posting and keeping us entertained.
In case no ones told you, you're a very talented mechanic! 👍👍👍
Welcoming back!
Thanks for sharing your time. Another great video
Thanks for the video, always enjoy watching!
I'm becoming addicted to your videos, great skills man! Cheers from Italy.
Cheers to you sir from the USA! 😊
Your engine bay is impeccably clean..... Love it!
yes but ray needs to clean his gauge cluster on the dash-just sayin!
Yeah! I can't wait to bring it by ❤
I'm there with you on pulling the dash. I got mine half out and gave up, taking it to a shop. Shop called me when they were done saying half my interior was missing. Yea, it's in my garage.
Good luck Ray. I am sure you can fix the issue with your A/C as there are nothing that you can't fix. The car/truck is on good hand with you Ray. Thanks for sharing the video and I enjoy everyone of them to this day.
You’re pretty good at the whole diagnoserization and repairitization stuff!
He could make a living at it right.
thank you Ray.have a great week.✌👍
Me and my mate fix cars at the weekends (second job) - we do a bit of "gravity" and "come 'ere you" and "become undone NOW" along with the occaision "Noice and tight!". We can't do any doodle doo's because its just an empty workshop we work in with no phone. But we would appreciate you doing some more "giggity's" now and then as they are our favourite but we haven't heard one in ages!! When inserting something into a flange or some such activity. All the best from Spain!!
Amazing how well try anything to cure a problem on our own vehicles but if someone else’s fix it proper and don’t have to deal with comebacks!! Great vid as always rainman👍
I'm sure my evaporator is clogged, but I put a new compressor on and it makes cold, a rebuilt compressor I might add, I'll just buy another one if this one Burns out.
Brings back fond memories of my ‘73 Vega … A/C was blowing 65° .. and at idle would shoot R12 out of the pressure relief in the back of the compressor. 1st year of using an orifice tube, dealer backflushed it but still was cooling poorly. I disassembled the low side connection and orifice tube was totally clogged. After replacing it , ran 35° discharge temps all day. Of course being a Vega it went on to develop other problems.
Drop an LS3 in that baby!🙃
Thanks for this at exactly the time that I needed it. You saved me a few bucks. Thanks bud.
I clicked the gray subscribe button just for the magic skills.
Sir, It is a pleasure watching your videos. I am a Retired Electrical Lineman from Florida. My knowledge of working on automobiles is about zero. But I have always wanted to learn. You have taught me so much, that I am going to start helping in a repair shop. At my age I will never come close to what you know, But I want to thank you for giving me the desire to do something that I have always wanted too. Thank You Again.. I will keep watching.. Michael
I agree. I'm not a lineman but a retired industrial/commercial electrician that connected to countless transformers you have set. I still love to learn new things. Ray, Wes and many others have taught me so much from the videos they make.
Being an hvac tech for 25 years, I've noticed that some of the dyes manufactured will colagulate in low pressure areas and harden. Its happened 2 times to me recently, once on my jeep and once on a micro channel rtu.
I concur.
@@MatthewK863 If your doing an overhaul, you really should. The desiccant filter is what catches alot of crap. The issue with the dye is sometimes it has a little leak stop in it. That chemical colagulates at low pressures. So of you get a leak, as it goes to atmosphere pressure. In the evap you have low pressures as the refrigerant goes to gas form, the dye falls out of suspension and collects. If it drops too low, it will colagulate and build up.
@@RAYROTHSTEIN66 and I guess explode out like this when you reverse flow to clear it,, crap load of green die blow out of it when it let go, sure his cleaning suff wasn't green, it was like it had a rat stuck in it
My first thought too as he blew out that dye bomb. It would be very odd to have a debris restriction in the evap core on these style GM systems.
Refreshing to see someone who knows HVAC chime in and make an insightful comment rather than the re re fest of getting bombarded with mindless comments from people going off on recharging it 2 oz under. I don’t know why this channel attracts so many uninformed commenters circle jerking over nonsense but it does more than any channel I’ve ever seen.
Very odd that post got automodded {Craig} who just posted about refreshing that people complaining about 2 oz under (can't see what word would trigger the automod), I guess B and J word might have done it
Great video Ray. I do enjoy these.
A great technician with diagnostic skills!
FYI, I've got the exact same refrigeration system flushing device, which I used a couple months ago when flushing several segments of a system after a compressor replacement... from what I could tell, it doesn't *mix* shop air and the solvent, it just pumps air into the top of the can, which pushes the raw solvent through the straw and out the blow nozzle. And at full pressure, it'll completely empty a full can of solvent in less than 10 seconds.
In your case, for the first few seconds where nothing was coming out the other side, that's when it was just pumping in the liquid solvent. And then once the can was empty, and it was just blasting air (at a much higher flow rate), that is when the stuff started blasting out the other side. So even if you had a brand new evaporator that was completely empty, clean and clear inside, that same procedure would've resulted in the same sort of delay -- the delay itself didn't necessarily indicate you dislodged a blockage.
Not saying it doesn't work, it absolutely does. But I think it's a bit wasteful of solvent, especially if you fill the can completely. A better method IMO is to fill the can maybe 1/8 to 1/4 full, blast it through until the mist clears, add that same amount to the can again, and repeat that a few times. I think it would work a lot better if it actually blended the solvent with air, especially if you could adjust the ratio of air to solvent, but unfortunately that's not the case with this particular device.
I loved the Frigidaire compressor that was in my 1971 Malibu SS. Of course it had the good old R-12 in it. Inside air temp got down to 32-33 degrees F.
A long time ago in commercial air conditioning we used to use r12 and r r22 but some of the new stuff and does not work as good as the old stuff but people got excited then my contaminate the environment now this is what we have things don't work as good as the old stuff
Larry-- had the same GM Long unit in my 74 Olds. Cutlass--drove it for 14 years, it would freeze you out, never any problems with leaks or comp. in that time frame.
@@michaelpressman7203 yeah...people got real excited about the new toilets too...I believe I have front page news clippings on that....
Blo n Chunks out of it....oh for Pete's sakes.
I still have a can of R-12 for my antique Coke machine.
Sweet poring Skills bro that was smooth @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Same issue on my 2005 Envoy XUV. I'll have to do what you did. Thanks for the video.
Pretty cool. They've made alot of stuff easier to access over the years, it looks like they could make things in the dash a little better to access. I've heard other mechanics in real life say how much removing the dash is a pain in the asterisk. Cool vid, very interesting. 👍👍👍
I had an '03 Taurus, the dash came out super easy. Disconnect the steering wheel where it goes through the fire wall, remove a few accessible bolts, pull the whole dash forward disconnect the electrical connectors. Took about 20 minutes to pull the dash and replace the heater core and put it back together. Why aren't all cars designed so easy? Most cars it is an all day job.
what bothered me was all the screws they had left after doing mine..:)
Had a 74 VW Beetle .... the dash was part of the shell, and you got at everything from the luggage space. When I say everything...it was about 6 switches and the speedo!
all day job........ if left alone to it
screws left over? emergency spares for next job
My Honda Civic lists a blend door actuator at 0.4 hours book time, no dash pulling required. You can get at it from the footwell. The evaporator isn’t much more since it slides out to the side once the blower and a few things are out of the way.
As a recently former Floridian that worked outside, A/C was a must. Couldn't have cared less if my car had heat but I would've sold what's left of my soul to have my A/C working. Keep up the great videos man.
Same in SE Texas.
thanks again ray always learning from your channel
The editing cracks me up. Well done as always 🤣
Ayeeeee I actually got a notification 4 minutes after upload
Long Range All Star!
Reminds me of years ago when I found the complete AC system for a silage truck sitting on the junk pile. After numerous flushes in in both directions with the garden hose and releases of explosive vacuum in both directions, the system actually worked pretty good after after having been open to the atmosphere in extreme dusty conditions for who knows how many years!
You can tell a lot about a mechanic by the way they keep up with the mechanical aspect of their vehicles. Ray, you are a hoot!
Wow 18.1mpg with that big old 6.6l diesel that's almost 3 mpg more then my 2000 4x4 4runner Bro niceee @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Tip. Dodge pickups when you pull the inside heater box . Use a bunch of white bic pen tubes thru the firewall holes and shoved on the heater box studs fully. Push and the heater box studs self center and shove thru the firewall insanely easily.
And when you done put the pens back together and you can use them for years to write notes bye have a good day
Thanks for the wipe down after your purge.
The art of the long range pour !!👍🏼👍🏼🍻💥
Since you found a clog in the evap I’m surprised you didn’t replace the orifice tube. Probably just me. Great video Ray.
Or indeed replace the service valves he ALWAYS does
@@olias2k979 I seem to understand he replaces them UNLESS... They've just just been replaced. In this case they're only a few months old. Instead of the normal few years or age of the vehicle.
I though orifice tube was a possible contributor as well
Yeah I was wondering why he wouldn't replace a $2 part, too. But it's blowing cold air so I guess it doesn't matter.
I noticed the same thing that the rest of you did. I also noticed that when Ray removed the charge to begin with it was also 1.4 pounds. So he installed 1.4 pounds a few months ago.
Perfect timing Ray, I have almost the same issue on my big tractor, been trying to figure it out.
That "break clean sting" is going to become standard on car repair videos, I can see it now. :)
If your evap was restricted, I would have put in a new orfice tube at the same time. They clog up very easily.
That’s the Money Shot 👍 95% of the time on a GM
I changed it a few weeks ago 👍
Nothing worse than a tight orafac or maybe not have a good day
@@RainmanRaysRepairs put in the Ford Red orifice tube while you at it...its one size smaller...and it helps ...
@@RainmanRaysRepairs 3 weeks is more than enough time to plug again,,,”if” the compressor is coming apart , that is where the shit from the compressor gets backed up,,,can’t get through the “screen “ on the orifice , plugged again,,,, replace compressor ( only moving part in the system ) have a great day !
You made me think of ETCG when he used NuBrite to clean a condenser & radiator. He got not so much cooler but got the high side lower. I have used several gallons of the coil cleaner since that time and it really helps. I know you have tons of bugs there so maybe you need to clean that part of the system? I also have FLIR and have found several condenser cold spots on different cars with that tool and have changed a few condensers over time and fixed the problem. Maybe some of the goo that was in the evap got into the condenser? I know it all adds up, like you do, but to clean the bugs and road dirt out of the front of the system would be a cheap easy way to get better cooling and milage. I did a 1990 Miata once with coil cleaner and it was amazing as I got almost a 10º drop. That took three NuBrite treatments on both sides of the con and rad. I also think that grill guard is causing a real problem..... Just Kidding! Bobby
Now i know what to search for ! Thamks :)
Can't say I have run into a this issue before back in my Honda wrenching days. Only seen leaking evaporators...always hating pulling dashes. Nice video.
This might explain my trucks problem, AC works at low speed low rpm high airflow, but starts to get hot at highway speeds. You gave me a good starting point to look Ray!
Depending on the type of system ,the expansion valve or fixed orifice tube style it could be that also both will stop cooling at hwy speed on high head pressure
I'd also be tempted to flush the condenser by the radiator cuz if one's clogged I bet it the other one is too and that will solve the problem
Blow the debris out of the condenser and radiator fins. Can’t hurt. We have cottonwood trees, they cause many problems in the spring.
I recently replaced the radiator, and while i was in there I did clean the condenser out while it was out. The old radiator developed a large leak near the bottom hose attached it just corroded away. I put in some AC dye to see if it was leaking and no dye was emited. Reading other comments I could see it being my compressor, its beginning to rattle a bit near the clutchy parts. Its an 07 with 239k. She's seen her better days.
to truly remove every trace of the solvent you'd need to do a N2 sweeping bleed in. When I have to flush a system in refrigeration I'd bleed a tiny amount of N2 through the high side to draw all the contaminants out of the system. then let stand after that under a slight holding charge of nitrogen, then a final finishing vacuum
Wow that was brilliant thank you
Funny how the most insightful and knowledgeable comments get the least exposure on this channel and the circle jerk nonsense about whether he charged it enough being 2oz below max get all the attention. This one and the dye coagulation comment are the most informative by far, sank you Fook Ewe…lol
I didn't see you pull out the orfice and thought you blew it out during the flush. I sometimes find evidence in the orfice screen of compressor o-rings or metal fragments that would clogg your evap coil. Great Job once again Ray! 👍👏👏👏
*RPM* Awesome, you got it Ray.
It's amazing to me how many very high mileage vehicles you, and other, mechanics are working on lately. This country is like Cuba now. Working people just trying to keep what they have running.
no joke.... my ride is almost 18 years old.....
Sad,,,, But True !
It's going to get worse. The amount of new vehicles being made isn't overcoming the amount of attrition. In a few years there will be a vast shortage. This is entirely by design as they force people onto public transportation while the entitled jet to Paris for lunch and back to NYC for dinner. You will sacrifice your freedom to protect their lifestyle.
@@mrmustangman lol that’s still new to me 🥲
@@member57 GM and others are Capitalists ..Creating a shortage only is commiting suicide. Forcing people out of cars is not in their best interests.
NOW the question is “where did that material to clog come from and where ELSE will it occur”? It’s still going to need a complete system flush. I REALLY hope that your plan comes to work out okay. And I’ve ridden in the backseat of a vehicle with a barely functional AC system and it was DEFINITELY not optimal. Not just an occasional flush but a very FREQUENT flush. Good luck with your endeavors Ray!
The AC system is a sealed system which pretty much leaves the most likely cause is the compressor is failing or someone working on the system has added refrigerant, oil, leak test solution and while doing so contaminated the system unlikely in Rays case. On a truck with that many mikes I would have liked to have seen Ray wash the Radiator and Condenser coils to ensure max air flow over them.
Most likely it is his compressor beginning to fail, but always go to the basics which is to make sure all coils effecting air flow are clean and fan is in good condition.
Blockage can be many things. Those systems don't typically have driers, could be moisture, high head pressure on hot days waxing oil. But these are in regular hvac systems
Silly Ray...Vacuum lines are for suckers...Great vid. Always learning great stuff from your plethora of info ! THANKS
That pouring was awesome!
Pretty sure the refrigerant spec charge you looked up was 1.6 lbs, rather than the 1.4 lbs. you recovered/put back in. Would 0.2 lbs. (12.5%) make a significant difference in cooling performance?
It might make the low-side cutoff stop cycling as well.... but yes.
indeed it did it should have been 1.6 Lbs
I also noticed this difference in charge vs. spec and was wondering why Ray undercharged it.
Agreed
Double agreed
Good morning Ray thanks for the great video on the clogged evaporator. I was wondering if your truck has a cabin air filter? My car doesn't have one and the exterior of the evaporator coil were clogged so I managed to get it mostly cleaned out. It made a big difference and while I was at it I cleaned the condenser fins. Just a low budget fix that really helped.
Oh by the way someone replied to me that I won some kind of prize for your video about the wheel bearing yesterday haha. I wish people would leave an old man alone
Yep several video providers have the same problem... just ignore it, its a scam.
Yeah they tried to send me a prize it was a scam watch out have a good day
In an area where you have a lot of dust debris and bugs cleaning the evaporator fins externally and the condenser will help because they just get clogged up through time it's hard to get to but it's an easy process have a good day guys
That truck does not have a cabin air filter. I own one. Cheers
Check or replace the accumulator dryer. Great video 👍 👍
In a previous life time I was part of the team at Bunce Motor Company converting these Vehicles from left to right hand drive for switched on kiwis in New Zealand !
L0L Money shot and you gave us a wipe what a gentleman!
BAC caps are sitting on the call when you decided to use your assault blow gun. You assaulted them.
I know you're not running on more than about 20 to 22 oz of refrigerant, but if you can drop that down to where you've got about 40 to 45 lb at the most on your low pressure side you might get a little bit cooler air out of that.
Ray that debris didn't just appear in the system (I'm sure you know that) likely the compressor is on the way out.
I'd suspect the dryer first because the compressor is still making decent pressure.
Might need both compressor and drier
@@xxxxxx_1300 alway replace both at same time
Dave: Ray knows that he should have replaced the “plugging up “ Orifice tube,,,,,, now , that’s the money shot…. Baby ! Doin a/c for 42+ yrs. Gotcha ! LOL
9:45 Gesundheit! That's a sneeze with green snot and everything 🤣.
Yup I like to place a rag on the other end when I back flush. It's nice to see what kind of debris comes out to help diagnosis. Metal particles from the compressor, desiccant from the receiver /drier / accumulator, or even stop leak remnants. Then I also can guess the condition of my fixed orifice or expansion valve....and compressor... but I know you knew all that ... lol
Being a HVAC/R Service Technician with 47+ years of experience, this video was certainly comical and entertaining.
😏
Especially the part where he rammed 100 psi. of flush solvent into the evap core w/o a drain hose, rag, or something to keep the explosion at bay...Boom!!
You ARE old ! LOL ,, I started in 1969,,, started doing A/C in 1975 ! What year is it now ? Gotcha !
@@fredwalker839 Started doing Service Work in 1970, then went on my own in 1975. Been doing it since, up to today. LOL
@@rfbedell347 You have me there ! I’ve had a shop since 1985, & I still show up @ work too ! The trade today requires a brain that works , not so much a strong back ! LOL that’s wore out ! Nice chat !
Wouldnt it be good to also add back some oil and maybe dye? Also, why would the evap core clog up in the AC lines? Wouldnt that mean that either the compressor is failing or something else is falling apart or particles ingress occures?
Great video brother, as always 🫡
Barry in the UK enjoying your videos
Ray - First, you have a Suction Line Accumulator (found on the low side), not a Receiver-Dryer (found on the high side). Second, after seeing the yellow fluorescent dye that was obviously added at recharge - was it dye only or dye/stop-leak? My guess is it was dye/stop-leak additive, and the stop-leak is plugging the micro-channel passages within your evaporator.
I hate most stop-leak products (except Cool Seal from Spectronics) because the polymer stop-leaks can activate within the system when they react with any residual non-condensable gases (air) or moisture. Plugging orifice tube screens and micro-channel passages is a prime symptom.
These coagulating dies and stop leak products have been an exceptional nightmare this season, been through a few gallons of solvent flush and nitrogen cleaning up all the DIY messes.
Same problem here… but my radiator exploded before I found out one of my electric fans wasn’t working.
Never crossed my mind…
Just worked on a coworkers 2008 Chevy truck. Chevy used and expansion valve/orifice tube combo. We changed it and he went ahead and purchased a new dryer just because. Recharged and working like brand new.
That was cool 😎, and now it’s cool 🥶!
Hey Ray - chuck another 0.2lb in there next time you've got a chance and see how it goes. You're a touch under the spec you looked up. Hoping it improves the performance! I also wonder if you were to let a solvent sit in the evaporator for a while and then flush it again if it might clear it out more.
Great video. But curious to know if the shop charges you for using the stall and/or materials on the repair of your own vehicle? I assume you did this on your off day.
Good to see what Ray’s choice of vehicle is. Didn’t know he was a diesel-man. Gotta have good AC in Florida, though.
love it when you shout AIR Ray is it really that bad but most important have your self a great day
I'm pretty sure Ray knows where the debris is coming from. Backflushing will temporarily clear the orifice tube screen which would indicate there is something going on with the compressor. The orifice tube was recently replaced. The compressor is likely on the way out.
Yeah I was thinking there's probably some nice metal chunks stuck in the orifice tube screen too.
Backflushing won't clear the orifice tube. The tube is by the high side port. He didn't pass any flush through it. I would have pulled it out to inspect it and probably would have replaced it since they're cheap. You may be thinking of an expansion valve, which is usually on the firewall.
Agree. Compressor is leaking internally causing high pressure on low and high side. Nothing money won't fix.
@@justinshaffer3419 Money!? You always have the answer don't you :P
@@chase2496 knowing it needs money doesn't equate having money, knowing it needs money and having money means not having money for long xD
You pulled 1.4lb... the spec sheet calls for 1.6lb. You under charged your system a little. 😀
Saw that too😂
Plus .2 lbs. trapped in machine’s 6’ lines , if we’re splitting hairs ! LOL
@@fredwalker839 Splitting hairs and splitting split pins vs. cotter pins seems to be 90% of the comments on this channel.
I liked for the 10/10 long pour. Good job!
Excellent!! as usual : )
So my question is..... How does whatever gunk was clogging it get into the system in the first place? I know some of the older stop leak products could do that, but I can't imagine Ray would use those....
P stop leak will clog up the heater side but I don't think it would affect the coolant side but Ray knows more about it than I do
Rayyy! Reeeer
I start my morning with coffee a joint and of course Rayman ray got to be the best entertainment on the old CZcams 😊😊 ooooo and the best part is. .........THE BRAKE CLEANER EFFECTS AND NOT ONE BUT TWO CANS 😂😂😂😅
glad your chevy isnt letting you down today. my selector switch broke off the gear selector first thing this morning lol
i dont understand how anyone can live with an everyday vehicle that has under 20mpg average
You should consider renaming your channel to: “Developing an OCD with Ray” … a lot of Tüdelü lately!
Since I love your German, here are some more bits:
Gravity: Erdanziehungskraft
Make it shiny!: Lass es glänzen!
Starting the engine: Starte den Motor.
Seatbelt click: Sicherheitsgurt Klick!
Powering down: Strom aus!
Greetings from Germany
Chris
Really gotsta watch Ray's videos right to the very end (I did not say bitter end.. but what's the opposite of that??) There's always some last bit of info haha. Thanks for keepin' it honest Ray. Love the videos; comentary, tips, and doodley-doos
Clean or replace the orifice tube. I did it to my dirty max . Great videos Ray.