Thank you so very much Sir! This is exactly what I was looking for. Your knowledge with very simple good details and to the point. Not like other videos who wants to tell the story of the beginning of the septic from the ancient worlds. 😅. You nailed Sir! May God continue to bless you with knowledge to help others. 🎉
Adam, Thank You so much for posting this. You are my Savior. The typical white to black kicked my breaker!! I searched the web to find out how to hard wire my float/pump!! Thank Goodness I found you!!
Thank a lot for this video it’s exactly what I was looking for. I had plugs on my existing pump and they were totally eaten through but everything works. I did like you said with the silicone and also put it in a weather proof box so I should be good for awhile. Thanks!
old video but worth a shot. my installers screwed up 17 years ago and issues since. the 1.25 pvc comes in riser almost at tank level with a typical elbow box. Flooding during heavy rains so all the switches and pump wired there. I am adding an elbow and bring the box near top since difficult to seal 4 sets of wires into this WP lidded box. I am trying to run buried flex conduit for pump, probably use 12/2. The floats, probably use TW wire but see other shielded stranded wire a fraction of the 20' needed, so 120' for all 6 wires. Would I be OK running waterproofed similar wires to the floats probably 14G 15 amp?
@@wholesalesepticsupply9801 I got 25' of Gear It SJOOW 12/3 power cable. Sturdy water proof durable wire. Running 14 THWN for 3 floats, that is what, well, THHN, now. Since the D elbow hole is almost directly at tank opening I an running all new wires to new box as well as using 1" 90s and a 45 to mount a waterproof box on riser wall. All connections watertight not. Currently is 14 wire and I see Romex. Since the D box was co stantly looded no wonder the floats were always messed up and fried my Norweco box. The only.reason my pump lasted was when I replaced it I used the waterproofing nuts with self fuse tape. so the pump and on off float could withstand being submerged for days. I have to blow out the 1" but unless a super flood all com.ections should wothstand a bit of flooding. I gotta say the air pump conversion is amazing. Got a whirlwind. I got a flat riser lid and it sits on top. added an elbow for spa tubing can drop straight down bit. OMG the smells almost disappeared when sprinklers go on. The old shafts can't compare plus if it floods the aerator will.still diffuse and not blow and tear up bearings. Been watching the float set ups and I may keep the float where it is but lower the override and set the alarm just before the inlet pipe. That should alert me that the water level is almost at the bio filter outlet. I am definitely taking that class to do own servicing and reporting to the county. I nearly.rebuilt an entire septic mechanically. Thanks for these videos. They really do help. Septic companies gotta eat too but 700 for wiring a new box, 30p for bio fter clean, 100 per float These cost can kill a person financially.
Thanks. Question, my system has two plugs that plug within each other. I want to put a light that shows when the pump runs. I was thinking on wiring the light between the two plugs. Would that lit the light bulb when the pump is running?
I have a sje rhombus box and the floater switch wiring goes to the box not to the pump so I forgot to take a picture before I took the wire off but can't get the new pump going.The pump has 3 wires green,blue and black and wires I have coming from the box black,green and white so I used green to green,black to black and white to blue please help thx
great video. so if you were to install a 3rd float(being an alarm float), that would just be spliced to its own low voltage line? and aside from that it’s just your typical switch loop between the two other floats?
to add to that, out to right next to the main pit i’ll install a ground electrical box, and to there i pull everything i need in THHN through conduit. the few times i’ve done it i’ve always had a dedicated “LV” line where both wires just splice directly to the two wires on the alarm cord, no neutrals and no ground needed depending on what alarm system you’re hooking up to. and then on the inside of the house i’ll junction that to 18-2 LV wire and run it straight to a mountable alarm box that plugs into an outlet(in which i install a dedicated GFCI for). i’m somewhat new to these kind of complicated septics but this has been working out great for me. and other than that addition it’s still your typical switch loop between your other two floats.
Yes it would be a separate circuit for the alarm. On the on off float it it really determined by how deep the tank or lift station is. If you have a pit that’s 3 ft you might not need a on off float unless you prefer it. If the tank is 6-10 feet deep it would be necessary. As far as where electrical connections should be made we prefer if it’s possible to run them outside the tank. Inside the tank causes issue when servicing. You know have connections under waste water and that need to be brought down to do work it creates issues down the road. The best set ups we have seen are done by people that service and install. They know at some point something will go wrong so they tend to plan out what is easiest when serving is needed. Someone that just installs tends to not think those issues out. If you can make the connection above ground if a control panel and close to a wall mount it there we have seen 4x6 treated lumber used to mount that works well also.
So the pump switches always use mechanical switches? Is that because the mercury switches can't carry enough current? I didn't know they was that weak. Great video.
Junk Yard on Franklin pumps we have had issues with mercury so we switched to mechanical and have had zero issues. On a sta-rite pump you can use a mercury.
I forgot to ask him a question. The wiring diagram you show is for the pump and the gray float which is to activate the pump, correct? Now, if you have an alarm that is wired in on a separate service, correct?
Donald Lee it’s really hit or miss on the position they fail in. And cycling has less to do than age of the pump. As the pumps age it pulls more amps. Most floats are rated for 13 amps and the pump new pulls 10-11 as they age that goes up degrading the float. Lot of people think of the float makes noise it’s working and it’s not. Most pumps fail do to motor failure so it’s a given the float needs to be changed unless a relay in the panel turns the pump on and off.
You jumped into connecting wires by saying, here's two wires and start connecting..... You didn't clarify which float you were connecting first , then second and it all became a confused mess. Then you started mixing up black and white saying ignore the color and treat them like black, but what float did you connect to the power vs pump?
He connected the lower control float (mechanical) to the pump from the incoming power source. The upper is the alarm float (mercury switch). I'm curious how it's wored in too.. I have to replace both my floats and pump.
Bill Fisher 220 pump would be different and and they are rare for this type of pump. Hp comes into play also and the control panel would have contacts in it with a relay. This was only for a 115 septic effluent pump.
The tape been new if you pull it out but won’t come off if you use decent duck tape. The environment is corrosive there is chlorine gas for the tablets used and wastewater is very corrosive as well.
You still did not explain in proper sequence , telling stories between steps and returning to what you were just saying and saying white to black incoming or ! White to black pump whatever ! Don't matter is not how to explain wondering all over the place and knowing ! This is where people mess up ! Stay on the subject in hand so we don't loose you along the way
Of all the videos I've watched, this one is by far the most beneficial
Glad to hear it helped
THANK YOU SIR! CLEAR,THOROUGH, AND CONCISE. I APPRECIATE YOU.
Thank you so very much Sir! This is exactly what I was looking for. Your knowledge with very simple good details and to the point. Not like other videos who wants to tell the story of the beginning of the septic from the ancient worlds. 😅. You nailed Sir! May God continue to bless you with knowledge to help others. 🎉
Thank you so much for a straight forward video. By far the best pump/float wiring video I've seen yet!
thank you! Fixed the float with my dad today with your help!
Jason got here on time and did a great job! Great advice on the septic system. A really nice guy!
Awesome tutorial guys. Thank you so much!
Adam,
Thank You so much for posting this. You are my Savior. The typical white to black kicked my breaker!! I searched the web to find out how to hard wire my float/pump!!
Thank Goodness I found you!!
Thank a lot for this video it’s exactly what I was looking for. I had plugs on my existing pump and they were totally eaten through but everything works. I did like you said with the silicone and also put it in a weather proof box so I should be good for awhile. Thanks!
Same here. Water was over wiring and completely shorted out.
Thanks for the video. Just what I was looking for. Take Care
There's a spot or two where I couldn't see the wires through your fingers. I enlarged the image and watched it a few times and figured it out.
Great Video!! You gave me the information needed to finish my hook up!!
My septic tank has a plug on it that says do not remove can i remove it and just hard wire the pump and float together from a power source in house
Oh man! Thanks so much for this video!!!!
Thanks man! Just the help I needed!
My original pump last eat from summer of 1991 until January of 2023.
I wish u would've explained the alarm float wiring. I need a lifeline....
That is just white to white and black to black much easier.
thank you so much help me a lot
Kellie Monterrosa your welcome we are here to help.
Please show it working with the alarm, I'm confused what you did. Where is the alarm ? I see the float that controls the alarm, I don't see the alarm
Thank you very much you help me a lot , god bless you
old video but worth a shot. my installers screwed up 17 years ago and issues since. the 1.25 pvc comes in riser almost at tank level with a typical elbow box. Flooding during heavy rains so all the switches and pump wired there. I am adding an elbow and bring the box near top since difficult to seal 4 sets of wires into this WP lidded box. I am trying to run buried flex conduit for pump, probably use 12/2. The floats, probably use TW wire but see other shielded stranded wire a fraction of the 20' needed, so 120' for all 6 wires. Would I be OK running waterproofed similar wires to the floats probably 14G 15 amp?
@@Jack-Surreal_Panes i would run 12g for 120 ft it also depends on what was ran from the main breaker box to to control panel.
@@wholesalesepticsupply9801 I got 25' of Gear It SJOOW 12/3 power cable. Sturdy water proof durable wire. Running 14 THWN for 3 floats, that is what, well, THHN, now. Since the D elbow hole is almost directly at tank opening I an running all new wires to new box as well as using 1" 90s and a 45 to mount a waterproof box on riser wall. All connections watertight not. Currently is 14 wire and I see Romex. Since the D box was co stantly looded no wonder the floats were always messed up and fried my Norweco box. The only.reason my pump lasted was when I replaced it I used the waterproofing nuts with self fuse tape. so the pump and on off float could withstand being submerged for days. I have to blow out the 1" but unless a super flood all com.ections should wothstand a bit of flooding. I gotta say the air pump conversion is amazing. Got a whirlwind. I got a flat riser lid and it sits on top. added an elbow for spa tubing can drop straight down bit. OMG the smells almost disappeared when sprinklers go on. The old shafts can't compare plus if it floods the aerator will.still diffuse and not blow and tear up bearings. Been watching the float set ups and I may keep the float where it is but lower the override and set the alarm just before the inlet pipe. That should alert me that the water level is almost at the bio filter outlet. I am definitely taking that class to do own servicing and reporting to the county. I nearly.rebuilt an entire septic mechanically. Thanks for these videos. They really do help. Septic companies gotta eat too but 700 for wiring a new box, 30p for bio fter clean, 100 per float These cost can kill a person financially.
Just wired up my pump and alarm I’m i required to put in a disconnect?
That depends on your county or state code.
I notice u have 3 wire tide on the pole , one is for pump , the second is for the floater , so wats the third wire for
Thanks. Question, my system has two plugs that plug within each other. I want to put a light that shows when the pump runs. I was thinking on wiring the light between the two plugs. Would that lit the light bulb when the pump is running?
What do I do with the other ground wire on the pump? Thanks
I have a sje rhombus box and the floater switch wiring goes to the box not to the pump so I forgot to take a picture before I took the wire off but can't get the new pump going.The pump has 3 wires green,blue and black and wires I have coming from the box black,green and white so I used green to green,black to black and white to blue please help thx
Great video. From here how do I wire the alarm float to the same existing wires coming in?
Scott Shanle the alarm is different you just wire it white to white, black to black.
great video. so if you were to install a 3rd float(being an alarm float), that would just be spliced to its own low voltage line? and aside from that it’s just your typical switch loop between the two other floats?
to add to that, out to right next to the main pit i’ll install a ground electrical box, and to there i pull everything i need in THHN through conduit. the few times i’ve done it i’ve always had a dedicated “LV” line where both wires just splice directly to the two wires on the alarm cord, no neutrals and no ground needed depending on what alarm system you’re hooking up to. and then on the inside of the house i’ll junction that to 18-2 LV wire and run it straight to a mountable alarm box that plugs into an outlet(in which i install a dedicated GFCI for). i’m somewhat new to these kind of complicated septics but this has been working out great for me. and other than that addition it’s still your typical switch loop between your other two floats.
Yes it would be a separate circuit for the alarm. On the on off float it it really determined by how deep the tank or lift station is. If you have a pit that’s 3 ft you might not need a on off float unless you prefer it. If the tank is 6-10 feet deep it would be necessary.
As far as where electrical connections should be made we prefer if it’s possible to run them outside the tank. Inside the tank causes issue when servicing. You know have connections under waste water and that need to be brought down to do work it creates issues down the road. The best set ups we have seen are done by people that service and install. They know at some point something will go wrong so they tend to plan out what is easiest when serving is needed. Someone that just installs tends to not think those issues out.
If you can make the connection above ground if a control panel and close to a wall mount it there we have seen 4x6 treated lumber used to mount that works well also.
How would you wire this if it were a 230v pump without a control panel?
Yep that's what I'm trying to figure out since there is a ground wire and two positives how do you wire the switch?
So the pump switches always use mechanical switches? Is that because the mercury switches can't carry enough current? I didn't know they was that weak. Great video.
Junk Yard on Franklin pumps we have had issues with mercury so we switched to mechanical and have had zero issues. On a sta-rite pump you can use a mercury.
I forgot to ask him a question. The wiring diagram you show is for the pump and the gray float which is to activate the pump, correct?
Now, if you have an alarm that is wired in on a separate service, correct?
That is correct alarm most of the time is just going to be straight white to white black to black.
who installs this the septic people or an electrician?
Great video. How my cycles is the float switch generally rated for? And do the switches tend to fail off or on (as in the pump won't shut off).
Donald Lee it’s really hit or miss on the position they fail in. And cycling has less to do than age of the pump. As the pumps age it pulls more amps. Most floats are rated for 13 amps and the pump new pulls 10-11 as they age that goes up degrading the float. Lot of people think of the float makes noise it’s working and it’s not. Most pumps fail do to motor failure so it’s a given the float needs to be changed unless a relay in the panel turns the pump on and off.
You jumped into connecting wires by saying, here's two wires and start connecting..... You didn't clarify which float you were connecting first , then second and it all became a confused mess. Then you started mixing up black and white saying ignore the color and treat them like black, but what float did you connect to the power vs pump?
He connected the lower control float (mechanical) to the pump from the incoming power source. The upper is the alarm float (mercury switch). I'm curious how it's wored in too.. I have to replace both my floats and pump.
What about 220 grundfos pump. Only need to break one leg?
Bill Fisher 220 pump would be different and and they are rare for this type of pump. Hp comes into play also and the control panel would have contacts in it with a relay. This was only for a 115 septic effluent pump.
Nylon zip ties rot in a moist environment. Has to be poly.
My float switch has 3 wires. Red White and Black. What do I do about the red one?
J. D. Richardson could be 220 this is for 115 V if it’s 115/120 then find what wire is the ground then do as i did
Pretty sure it's 115. So If one is ground then all grounds go together correct? Pump, Float, Powersource.
Great Video by the way!
J. D. Richardson yes that is correct. If there is a control panel they will all be together. If not they well still be all together in a way.
The pump motor will tell you what it is they don’t make dual voltage in this type of pump.
People want to act out.... protest free speak and stuff... :-)
Travis Thompson Yeah, I want some of those “free speech” cable ties!!
What happens if my pump goes off with the float is down and when it goes up it shuts off
You have a normally closed float. They are used in water well applications normally.
Duct tape,lol just curuios as to why it will rot very quick
The tape been new if you pull it out but won’t come off if you use decent duck tape. The environment is corrosive there is chlorine gas for the tablets used and wastewater is very corrosive as well.
You still did not explain in proper sequence , telling stories between steps and returning to what you were just saying and saying white to black incoming or ! White to black pump whatever ! Don't matter is not how to explain wondering all over the place and knowing ! This is where people mess up ! Stay on the subject in hand so we don't loose you along the way