FORGOTTEN 1986 FORD F250 IS FINISHED!
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Hey craig I have an 89 F250 351W. Truck used to do buck like hell under any load. Swapped out the MAP sensor, along with (i think) an idle sensor that is bolted to the distributor, but what I believe really did the trick to fix her was installing a new fuel pump, filter, and taking out the injectors to clean them. turns out they were clogged up, so when you wanted more power they simply couldn't deliver enough fuel, which caused the engine to sputter like crazy. Once the injectors and lines were cleaned, she ran so smooth and strong. I dont think you have the same problem but maybe this gave you a new idea for the bucking issue you got.
Looks like you already thought about the Sensor on the distributor (TFI Module)
Check his previous videos on the truck, he's already replaced the fuel pumps, filters, fuel pressure regulator, and other things
I have an 86 f250. Even if your tfi is not the problem its a good mod to relocate the tfi to the radiator support or inner fender. If it ever goes out you can change it in a couple minutes. I had problems with mine. It ended up being the pickup. Occasionally it will buck once or twice. I think its fuel presuure related. Only does it when below a 1/4 tank. Also maybe check the wiring or connector on the injector harness. Nice vidoes.
The distributor gear has to get swapped from the truck distributor to the mustang distributor or you'll eat your cam drive on your trucks engine. if it wasn't mentioned. 5.0HO vs. Non HO. HO drive gear is hardened steel. the trucks non HO. is cast iron.
Came here to say the same thing.
@@midwaygarage2023me too lol
I still say you should try and retrofit the air cleaner box, coolant overflow/windshield washer tank and throttle body snorkel tubes from a 1992-1996 F150. It would take that air cleaner box from being over that hot engine to the cooler front of the engine bay. Ford changed that set-up from what's on your truck to what is in the 1992-1996 F150 for a good reason. Cooler air means more power.
Way easier way to change the window motor by simply drilling a few holes in the door and unbolting it without removing the regulator. Either way good job trucks looking good
Nice I got a 89 Lariat and I love it, ir's got a 5.0 in it. With power windows two.
Love the bullnose content👍🏻 it has inspired me to get back into restoring mine!
Get some oversized clamps that have rubber feet/ pleats on them, to clamp onto door glass to hold the window up when you are servicing it. The clamps come in handy, as an extra pair of hands when needed, in many different applications. Now you know. Thanks for posting
Great job and always awesome work!!
Use a punch and knock the center pin out of the rivets. Then they drill right out. 😊
I love my '92 F150 351 w/C4 4 wheel drive 240 thousand miles, runs like a top.
Never had a timing/fuel issue.
Replaced the fuel pump a couple years back and that's it.
Change the oil every 2,500 miles with Castrol and gets new plugs every 6 months.
I could daily it if I wanted to😁👍
Timing lag you can feel it with a manual transmission .Timing chane is stretched so when you pull a hill it causes a lag.
Babe wake up, Craig909 posted a new video
Wake up?? He posted it at 6pm.
@@brando7655maybe they work nights🤷🏻♂️
@@kyranboldt2079maybe it's an overused comment format
i had this issue. tried a few different tfi module and various ignition stuff. also had basically my whole fuel system changed but it ran fine for like a solid year. even tried a new computer but didn’t fix it, hope the people who bought it from me can try and fix it. these 80-90s trucks can get so tricky after a while
Open up that ecu I guarantee its corroded
My money is on the ecu. I went through all the ignition on mine and nothing changed then one day it shut off and wouldn’t start back. Slapped a new ecu in it and good as new. The capacitors leak onto the board and cause corrosion and misfires under load.
This is awesome Craig. Love the cool content y’all been making. I’m about to do balljoints on my recently purchase 96 ford explorer sport that has a manual transmission.
Your ball joints are pressed into your A arms. You'll have to replace the A arms. My dad's 2000 Eddie Bauer V-8 Explorer is that way.
@@user-iy7yb1sh8g I know, I’ve done them on the ranger I had last year. The top one isn’t replaceable gonna need the whole a arm, but the bottom can be pressed out and replaced which is the worn out one on each side
Mccully racing motors make a tfi relocate kit for these trucks. The 90s obs fords came factory with the tfi mounted on the inside of the driver side fender. There was a class action lawsuit against ford for the tfi.
I have a 86 F150 Lariat short bed with the same engine and I haven’t had that cutting out problem to happen. I did have to replace my tfi module once but it didn’t give any signs of failing,when it went bad it died and wouldn’t refire until I replaced it.
For as beautiful and straight that truck is, it really needs a respray or at least the center panels.
Check the throttle position sensor. I had one on a similar generation that had slop where it connected to throttle shaft, so it was never seeing the right amount of throttle
Its missing with the torque converter locked, that causes the bucking....lots of things...injectors, egr, wires, bad plug, coil and module to start. G.L
plug wires look new but the wifes jeep would do the same thing and the plug wires that went around the back of the motor were grounding on the head when heavily loaded. Hope it's a cheep fix , keep up the great content.
Might try replacing the coil also. Low RPM moderate load (lean) requires a strong spark.
I chased the same issue on a Cherokee. After cleaning and replacing old parts for weeks, it turned out to be a combination of dirty grounds and a bad crankshaft position sensor.
Hey now, don't make fun of vehicles from 1986. They were built to last for so many years! I was also born in 1986 👍
I had the exact same problem with my tfi module on my bronco. Fixed the issue than tore it all apart and put a sniper on it.
My LS would go into a "limp mode" after putting a heavy load on it and would be barely driveable afterwards , yet clear itself up after sitting after a day or so... wound up being crank position sensor.
I'd take that over a new truck anyday. My grandpa had the same year but the f150.
check the ECT engine coolant temp sensor it controls the fuel and spark map on all these trucks that have the TFI ignition systems the like to get hot and ground them selves out causing it to do exactly what its doing now
My fox body did the same thing. It’s the hall sensor in the distributor failing the second they got warm inside the distributor. The car would die on the side of the road also happened to my buddies fox body too.
You may want to try and rock the key a little forward and back while it’s acting up. Could be a bad ignition switch. If you end up swapping out the switch it’s best to get a Motorcraft part.
I just adore the Black steelies. ❤️
I would hook up a fuel pressure gauge and watch when it’s under a load or hook maybe a AFR gauge and see what conditions you’re having. That’ll be a good start in my opinion.
I had a similar issue with my 2003 crown vic, I know it's a completely different vehicle but my issue ended up being bad chassis. grounds
Needs coil cap ignition module or dizzy
Man I know where an F250 is almost exactly like that one… I’ve been wanting to go ask about it but I don’t ever see anybody outside and I don’t really like going up to knock on random people’s door…😅 It was ok to do that 20 years ago but idk about nowadays… Lmao plus I live in Georgia and people have changed so much over the years it’s crazy.
How about an edlebrock manifold, 1406 edlebrock carb, 5/8th inch thick carb insulator and fuel pressure regulator w a hei distributor? Sketch fuel injection system to the recycling bin.
Check ign. Control module. They had some issues with those
It's that block bolted to the side of the distributor.
Some parts stores have equipment to test them
Sounds like the ignition control module on the distributor take it off and put a new layer of dielectric grease and they usually come back to life.
LOOK HERE i worked for ford back then and that distributor pickup coil are white or clear looking are the good ones if it was black they were bad. Now back to your problem some many people don't know there is another fuel filter on the frame on the driver side frame rail below the driver door sill. It is in a canister filter. I have replace hundreds of them. Really best thing to do is install fuel pressure gauge on the Schroeder valve on the fuel rail located on the passenger side of the truck fuel rail. While it is idling should be 30 psi if you disconnect the vacuum hose to the fuel regulator pressure should go to 40 psi. Now time for road test. they all ways fail the driving test, put the gauge on the outside on the windshield and drive it. On a FULL throttle through the gears you should see close to 40 psi if it drops fuel pump or filters are the problem. Of cause im sure you ran a EECIV test on the system before you did all the work? I hope this helps if not you know where i am. good luck love the channel
Had something similar to my 86 f150 by coincidence I found the problem it was a relay under dash kinda where your right knee is...fuseable link thick blue wire I never did chase it all the way back I would juts splice it everytime it would break. It would loose power
Can you do another pov of driving this thing I wanna hear that exhaust!!!!
Had the exact same bucking issue with my 86. Chased it as I thought it was an EFI fuel issue. I would bet it's the distributor. The ignition control module on the distributor is likely junk. Poor design as they got super hot and fail.
You should build an engine as torque monster for the bullnose
My 89 did that and i replaced the computer and it fixed the issue
Have u checked the air intake temp sensor it might be it ik my ram i got it sorta did it beacuse the air intake temp sensor
Hey what tires and size do you have on it now? Did you paint the stock steel wheels black? It looks great
I’ve got a 1988 5.0 with a c4 and transfer case out of a bronco that runs here in middle TN if you wanna road trip it here 😅 you can see it run on Babe Approved rides CZcams channel.
Your hard work and modesty inspire the CZcams community. Congrats!
Mine bogs out like that too acts like it can’t go
Clean or replace the EGR valve and replace O2 sensor the EGR valve goes bad cause O2 sensor to fail I had a 94 f150 doing the same thing and this fix it
Maybe the engine stumble is being caused by a bad/weak fuel injector/s.
Had a bad tps do that
That truck needs a moon visor and spotlight
You should swap the fox bodies old engine into the truck that would be sick
Its the distributor, my mustang did the exact same thing
If I had to guess, the riveted window motor was easier/faster/cheaper on the assembly line.
Fuel pump
Maybe slack in the timing chain? Or fuel delivery issue…
it would be cool if u swapped the mustang engine into the bullnose once it goes? and it would be cool if he swapped a cheaper coyote, 351 or a racing motor
Coil coil coil coil
what size of tires do you run on that old girl? they seem to fill the wheel wells pretty good
Swap that cam gear. Otherwise things are gonna get chewy
Supercharger diesel??
😎🏴☠️
What happened to your friend Shawn?
losing spark due to heat is typically the coil
That is a comet isn't it
Thumbnail needs an alignment lol
Bad / cheep plug wires ?
I've been watching you for 4 years.I have a 72F250
I have a 72 F250, manual Borg T19, low boy. Straight from factory. Can you fix my my vapor lock?
Get a return line from the fuel filter back to the tank if you don’t have one already
This truck confuses me. It's a bull nose with efi? I thought efi started with the bricknose.
Trucks with a 302 got EFI in 1986. Trucks with 300 got EFI in 1987.
Trucks with a 351w got EFI in 1988.
Trucks with a 460 got EFI in 1987.
@@johngraves9201 302 with fuel injection was an option in 1985 1986 was the first year the 302 was standard eqipped with efi, 300 went efi in 87, 351W went efi in 1988 and the 460 in 1988. 1987 the 351W and 460 were carbed engines in the trucks. 1987 m.y. instead of efi badges on the front if it was a 2 wheel drive had a 4x2 badge those were 4 barrel trucks.
@mplante7352 @johngraves9201, thanks for the info! I have a 91 brick and things look awfully similar under that hood
change distributor
Cant be finished...yet
do the big 3 on it grounds, problem solved
That's why I quit buying Ford, every one I owned did stupid things like that
I was born in a Ford.
Too bad you ruined it by putting a manual in it
Get rid of all ford and replace with Chevy and all problems will be gone 😂😂
Now sell it, get a diesel
First