I just want to thank you for all the work you've done with 3D printing. You're google doc on it has been a lifesaver for me. I recommend it every chance I get and it hasn't let me down yet.
This is great. I think the cubes of calibration is one of the best tests out there. I like numbers and 'wrong or right' answers, other calibration parts don't go down that root.
Thank you, I really felt I had to keep it objective and not subjective. That's even why the pillars have no weights on the end. As soon as I or anyone adds weights. It's subjective, as that person now controls when you're successful or when you fail.
@J3DTech - I wanna make sure I’m doing this correctly…I’m using an Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra. The thin part of the build plate calibration pieces measure 1.5mm. Once I’ve returned the build plate to home. Do I use the “Manual” tool, choose “0.1” and then click the down arrow 3 or four times, then go out to the Tool menu and click the “Set Z = 0”?
In the drywall or painting section of the hardware store you can find a nice metal scraper about an inch wide. Most of them suck, but if you find one that says "Chisel-Tip" it is a little thicker with a perfect angle to remove prints off the build plate without harming the base of your item.
Thank you! At this point these 5 little prints will test for. Bed leveling Z-offset Bun in exposure Dimensional accuracy Resin Tensile strength All with objective results.
@@Xelonius Thank you! I put a lot of work into making sure it was 100% object. So not only can you calibrate your printer. But you can actually use it to compare resin and printers in a way that removes all subjective variables. Word vomit 🤮 sorry.
I loved this video. Best video ever for beginner with resin 3D printing, and I watched many. I also loved the guide to setting up your printer and resin in a slicer like Chitubox or Lychee. It explains things clearly and understandably and gives examples that work. I also printed the "boxes of calibration" perfectly after reading the guide and watching this video. Highly recommended.
@@johncook538_modelwerks Thank you so much! It's sooo much work to put all this together. It means a great deal when someone takes the time to understand and even more to comment. Again thank you
@@J3DTech THANK YOU!! I'm a big sci-fi model maker and a lot of subjects are only available through 3D printing. Now I'm able to print tremendous details for my projects. Thanks again.
Very interesting video. Thank you! I'm new to resin printing and been working on calibrating a Mars 3 Pro. I've gotten the cubes to fit perfectly, going to try this now and check the z offset and leveling. Also going to try the vat leveling technique, seems way better than the paper method. You deserve more subs and views.
Just printed the five flat pieces after doing a new leveling and vat clean. The leveling seems perfect as far as I can tell. I have ordered one of those digital exact measurement tools, for now I used a folding rule with millimeter markings and just my eyes. Far from exact of course but it looks very close to 1 mm. Was thinking of raising the z offset maybe 0.2 mm or so to be safe until I get the tool for exact measurement.
Very happy to discover you've got a CZcams Channel. I began resin printing about 1 year ago, coming from FDM. I read a lot before beginning, but your guide was my bible. I had only two little fails (my fault) in this time. Happy to be able to thank you a lot for this extraordinary guide
Awesome! Glad you are making an appearance. Is strange not to have one of THEE best Printers not visible in the community. Yes, you wrote the book and have I believe the best printing capabilities but not enough people understand how to do this. I saw on another vid that when raising the z offset that you should end on a DOWN button push. So, if it needs to be raised 4 then raise it 5 or 6 and come down 2 , something about gravity. Now this was for a DELTA FDM printer but maybe it is the same or maybe not with the spiral arm.. Anywho, I am so glad the book is alive!!!!!!!
Thank you very much! I'm not sure on FDM. I am learning that now but I would say it would not translate into resin at all. These two are so different. The Z-offset calibration is something I was afraid to share. Im still worried users will spent too much time trying to make it perfect. When + or - 0.2mm is fine. In resin the Burn in layers will kind of auto level to an extent, being a bit thick can actually be a good thing. For example if my raft measured 1.2mm I would be happy and leave it alone. But 0.8mm I would want to increase my offset by 0.2mm. Perfect or over is the goal under = bad.
I really had to laugh when you said "You really want to shake this resin like it owes you money" almost spit out my water xD Also great tip with the leveling procedure. The FAP film is flexible, it has to be so simply pushing down the thing should do it, this si not rocket science, I like your take.
really wish i found this a couple years ago lol returning to this with that gremlin issue on my printer not printable a damn thing. really nice to start from scratch with good fundamentals like this. great stuff mate
I recently bought the Elegoo Mars 4 DLP and printed the build plate test after having started to read your guide. One of those squares had a thickness of 1.03mm while the other four (the center and three corners) were at 0.950. Those weren't the first prints I made. I have already printed a few minis (to test the AA settings), the Cones of Calibration and a few more stuff. I decided to start over after discovering your guide (I plan to do this professionally in the future. I bought the DLP printer so I wouldn't have to worry about the LCD screen as a beginner). I might have to postpone further calibration/tests though. The room's ambient temperature is around 19-20 degrees celcius (at best the resin has the same temperature). I have ordered a thermal vat band in order to raise the resin temperature to 27-30 C (which might take some time to arrive in Greece).
That distance between the two is more than good. I'd say you're level. I don't recommend anyone use cones they aren't really calibration. For the temps, after more experience I recommend 22c-26c but you can get away with 20c. DLP Printers can be a bit strange with how AA can or can't work. The best printers I've found are 8k as the 12k and 14k printers have all strange quarks.
@@J3DTech Thanks for the advice. When the time comes I plan to go for Uniformation's GK Two and one of Phrozen's printers (still haven't decided which one) . Ideally I would want two large printers (with a good XY resolution) for both large and small prints.
Very good video on the subject of 3d resin printing, I am thrilled with the entire playlist. This comment is mainly used to feed the CZcams algorithm ;-) Thank you very much for your time and effort Kind regards Harry
@@J3DTech Hello J3D Tech, may I ask you something? I printed now the 5 Plates and the result was: top-left: 1,18mm top-right: 1,21mm center: 1,17mm bottom-left: 1,05mm bottom-right: 0,95mm Is this an failed Plate-calibration or something else? I am wondering why the plate is top and center great, and bottom out of everything... The Plate never fall down to the ground - just if you ask ;-) thank you for your time and effort. kind regards Harry
@@Tutorialgarage In total you're off by 0.26mm from the bottom right to the top right. That's not terrible but it would be nice if you could get it under 0.15mm. It seems like you're applying more pressure to the bottom than the top when you're leaving your plate. Overall they are pretty close to the 1mm so your Z-offset is not really an issue, even less if you could get the bottom and top a little more aligned.
@@J3DTech Hello Derek?, Thank you for your time and effort. I think I saw you yesterday on the Dicordserver from Lychee. I level the Plate new and gott this result: TopLeft: 1.05 TopRight:1.09 Center: 1.14 BottomLeft: 1.03 BottomRight: 0.95 Your boxes of calibration works well. Thank you. Btw.: I have to change my Name on the Discordserver 😏
Incredible video as all the one you make. I've watched almost everyone of them and some of them even 2-3 times 😅. Would it be possible to have some more video on how to correctly support figurines (mainly mid to large size) especially regarding heads with hairs and other highly detailed parts? I'm following your guide and using all the advices for the base 😁 Thank you very much for your great work 😃
Are you sure that the Mini 8k(s) have a screenprotector over his screen after removing the peel sheet? I wasnt sure about this and put and fixated a Fep over it. Probably not the best for quality and would be rubbish if there was alrdeady a protector.
I am looking at doing large prints that have detail, have asked around and FDM will not cut it, what resin printer has the largest screen. That you would recommend?
I love your guides and videos, I have a question on the reason for having resin in the vat when you're doing a vat level... Mainly, what purpose does it serve to have resin in the vat during the levelling process? Wouldn't that increase the chances that the vat would be crooked if you're pressing down harder on one side than the other?
I've not seen it cause an issue with making it unlevel due to pressure. But now that I have the Base calibration part I can get feedback from others to verify. But there are three main reasons. 1. Emptying the Vat is work and messy and a horrible workflow. 2. The resin keeps the build plate from scratching the FEP. 3. The resin makes a suction cup keeping it secure when tightening.
@@J3DTech thanks for the quick answer! I expected that #2 was one of the reasons. I have a mighty 8K and because I have more money than sense some times (and wanted to be able to vat swap to clean or run different resins) I have two vats for my printer. With that, when I need to level or re-level my plate, I just throw the empty vat on the printer (which already has a more worn FEP) level it up, then put the other vat back rather than draining it. Thanks again for the quick response!
@@adamosmond9982 I have a extra VAT and buildplate leveld to that VAT for my printers. I have a resin I use 90% of the time, but that other 10% it's easy to have a spare. I also dont need to clean the 90% VAT just store it in a bin.
@@J3DTech Exactly! That was my whole thought. I have a nice lockable lid container for my second vat with exactly that purpose in mind. Keeps the vat clean, the fep clean (I want to print some stand offs to glue to the bottom for the posts that lock in, so the vat hovers in the container) but that is exactly why I wanted to get a second vat. And thanks to you and Ty at Tableflip, I use the Siraya Tech blend, and have infinitely less failures than when I started. Thanks again for all you do!
Thank you very much for this interesting and extensive video. I would like to ask two questions, if possible from here. Is there any explanation possible about "COMPENSATION"? and how to avoid elephant foot, from Chitubox I understand it and eliminate it well, but from Lychee I am not able to. Thank you so much
First I want to say, this feature is not necessary unless you must print directly onto the build plate. Something I rarely recommend in resin 3D printing. That said, you use it as a negative value. It will delete pixels around the base of the object so that after the elephant's foot effect is finished the current base is very close to the size of the original. There is no trick to it, just print a small object and play with the value till you find the balance between burn in exposure time and compensation.
@@J3DTech Thanks for your answer. So the 5 build calibration plates, shouldn't I print them directly on the build plate? I ask this because I want to make some flat flower designs to use as a pin.
@@tonimorato2749 these ones. Yes, they are designed to be printed directly on the build plate. The difference here is that most calibration prints come with a raft pre-installed and are designed to be printed directly on the build plate. Where your 3D model may not be.
It is 100% up to you. Measing them before curing will test your calibraion after the print, teting them after curing will test your resins post process shrinking. Just one more thing this calibraion print does out of the box. ;)
Short question, in Lychee Slicer the boxes are 1,65 mm high. Can you elaborate how you come to 1mm thickness when the sliced file is already 1,65mm thick?
I'm not 100% sure what you mean? The raft on the boxes should measure at 1mm when the print is finished. In Lychee where are you messing from? We can't post screenshots in this chat. But if you reach out on the Lychee Slicer discord I can show the exact measurements of the model.
Just try your xl calibration, what if on the left i got 1,2 and on the right about 1,4 1,5, do i need restart the leveling because the plate isn't horizontal?
On what printer? With the XL you will often get a thicker raft due to the heat and the size of the part, so on this we care more 1. Did they all print, Yes good, Are they all about the same thickness? What you want is from the thinest to the thickness no great then 0.3mm difference. 0.2mm if you can get it, but some printers just cant.
On a elegoo mars 3, yes There is a raft who appear, so it's normal? But the size are différent from the left to the right, 0,2 0,3 mm différence so it make 1,2 mm on the left with raft and 1,5 on the right.
@@J3DTech On a elegoo mars 3, they all print good, but the thickness on the left was 1,2 and on the right 1,5 approximatly, (mesure with a meter), difference between left and right can be a problem?
It's about 0.2c per sheet on average. Far cheaper than a $100 - $450 LCD that a single mistake can cost. Or even the $10 - $30 FEP/ACF. In the end, it is highly worth the cost and that's before you get into the time savings. The alternative is to empty the vat through a strainer, a paper strainer will cost more then the resin of the cured sheet. You can use a metal version you must clean but there is a time and cost to that as well. Mostly in the IPA and paper.
Can you post a link to your slap mat you used? Also, on one of your older videos you had a huge blue mat, did you get this from Uline? I am trying to find a 24" x 72"
Great Video, im scared to remove the entire build plate using the large knob. Fearing that I will not retighten to the "set 0" torque of the knob. Do you remove the entire build plate every print, and what is your success rate when re installing for back to back printing with no down time?
Great video! I've only printed a few things with my Mighty 8K, but one was an abject failure, and I think I've damaged the vat film. How much can that film be dented before it's too much?
thanks for the video, I always tried the cones of calibration, but now I am going to try your boxes of calibration. Question, where did you buy that silicon pad?
Great video thx :) Can we do the leveling on the ACF film with an elegoo mars 3? Or we need to do with a paper like it's say on the notice? Because i want to change the nfep by an acf but it's not the same thickness... :/
@@Kivar1 Yes you can. But I still recommend printing the build plate calibration parts after that to confirm your level and Z offset and going from there.
This is to send them next to each other and use your fingernail or a pencil to draw between them. Also I've since released the XL version that can be done.. with adequate accuracy. cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/biuld-plate-calibraion-xl-designed-for-rerf-or-whatever
Could be wrong but I did not see any info in your guide regarding proper ventilation for your resin prints(tried searching for key words and skimmed through it). Does the room you print in have a fan venting to the outside? Are activated carbon filters adequate for VOC/resin fume exposure if you have to use an indoor room?
It's a topic I'm afraid to cover as I don't consider myself in a good position to give this type of advice. That said. I do run a 4" fan outside from my printing roll. 24/7. My printing room is waterproof and covered in tile. I also have 4 large carbon activated filters throughout my house, one just outside the room and one inside every bedroom.
This is extremely disheartening. I purchased a grow tent filter with activated charcoal and i assumed that with a closed room would be enough. It seems like that room would need to be vented outside regardless. I have those crank windows so i don't see a way to do permanent ventilation. I cant modify my house either by making a hole through the wall.@@J3DTech
@@project_hollow6627 If you have access to a window you can create or buy or 3D print a shim that goes in there that you can use to connect up to a fan. If you can get a fan through the window, you're good to go
I printed all calibration prints and they were 1.1 mm thick, is this acceptable or will it cause problems with future prints? Also, I noticed the bottom/back of the pieces, I have very small bubbles that were in the first couple burn-in layers. Are these likely because I shook the resin too vigorously before pouring or I didn't wait long enough for the resin to settle in the vat? My resin is ELEGOO Upgraded 8K Standard Photopolymer space grey resin and I used 8/60 exposure time per "unofficial" community settings for this resin on Elegoo's website.
I got a question about this the Z-Offset. In the time stamp 10:09, you just press the "start" in the "z control" option, to move the buildplate to the home position. But I saw that build plate in the video is tightened... that is not dangerous for the lcd screen?
@J3DTech Yes yes... I got that part, my friend. I was just scare because the screws of the build plate are tightened and not loose. But I already did and... nothings happened so.. forget the stupid question hahahaa XD 😅😅😅😆
you picked the mini 8k s and said you like your own profile settings (your vids walking me through this). 5:35 They dont have any shared settings for mini 8k s yet. Im assuming they will be different from the mini 8k yes (I know absolutely nothing)? Guessing i should not use the 8k settings?
They are all community profiles based on the resin you're using. They will be a bit different from what I have seen the 8ks cures faster than the 8k. But this is why you need to calibrate. No profile will be the same. You can use all my settings but exposure times you will need to calibrate for.
Great video! I have one issue, maybe you can help me. When leveling the plate and doing the calibration test, the rafts on the edges come out perfectly, but the one in the middle doesn't stick to the build plate. I've tried lowering the lift speeds and increasing the lift distances, but I still get the same issue. I also sanded the build plate and checked with a ruler and light for some uneven spots. Any ideas?
I've seen this a few times. And it is often because the build plate isn't flat you corrected that. Did you also scuff it up to add a texture? The LCD is warped, harder to check but 100% an issue mostly on the Phrozen 8k. Make sure that the FEP and LCD are in good working condition. Make sure you're lifting high enough. What printer and slicer?
@@J3DTech Yep, I'm 100% sure the build plate is flate, I sanded it with 120g, then with 80g to give it a bit of texture (I followed a video that explains it rly well). The printer is a Mars 3 Pro, Im using Chitubox Pro as my slicer. I tried with 10mm lift distance and 20mm lifting speed so I'm pretty sure thats not the issue. The FEP is new and I'm pretty sure it has the perfect tension (I checked the frequency of the sound with the phone app). I've never heard of the bend LCD problem on the Mars 3 :/
@@FrankieMankie Nope the Mars line is to small to have that issue. When you finish the prints, did you measure the low spot to see how thick it is, it should meaure 1mm. What resin are you using? How many Bottom layers Transition layers Bottom exposure settings Layer thickness. Wait before print (Light off delay)
@@J3DTech Yep, all low-spots on the 4 rafts on the edges measure 1mm exactly. I am using Elegoo Water Washable with 6 bottom layers at 20s, 3 transition layers, layer thickness of 0.05mm, light off delay of 0.5s. However, I just did a test with 30s bottom exposure and the one in the middle actually printed!! I dont get it, with 20s bottom exposure the ones on the edges print but the one in the middle doesnt, and then with 30s they all print? I used to print with 20s bottom exposure in hot weather 30-35°C, now its 23-25°, does that affect how much bottom exposure I have to use? (By the way thank you for the quick answers!!)
@@FrankieMankie Ah the age old ruck of MOOOARRR :) I would recommend using 2s light off delay however, this will make a MASSIVE improvement to the quality of your prints. 5c is a massive change, it will 100% change how your printer works. This is why I recommend getting a heater for your printer. In my guide at the bottom I have a few options with pros and cons.
I am using Lychee Pro version 5 (5.4.300) and the add new resin menu looks much simpler. No transition layer count, no retract distance, no wait before / after print or lift, light intensity. It looks much simpler. Am I missing something or on the wrong page?? Thank you
@@davesenor3146 That printer does not have the same functions of newer printers. IT does have TSMC but it's build into the firmware and you cant controll it.
I don't think you can. It has an auto leveling system that works very differently. I personally don't have one so I'm not as familiar with it as I am with other printers.
I think you’re correct. When doing calibration prints for bed level and exposure, are burn in and transition layers accounted for? When I did your bed leveling one on the GKTwo, they were all within +/- 0.08mm thickness of each other, but averaged around 1.6mm thick. They all interlocked great though. Should I be concerned?
@@IKilledYourDude The print is thick enough to absorb a reasonable amount of burn in and transition layers. If you're printing at 0.05mm and the prart is 1mm thick that would give you 20 layers. You should really only use 4-5 burn in and 3-5 transition layers.
@@SpringfieldFatts I have 3 Anycubic printers and so far they work the same. You first set it home, then you use the 0.1mm button and 0.05mm button to input the difference of where your part measued. Then hit Z=0, the printer should come up with a prompt to hit Enter. See about half way down. manuals.plus/anycubic/photon-m3-premium-8k-high-precision-3d-printer-manual#axzz87jrKxEsM
@@J3DTech sorry, should of specified I know how to set the axis, just wanted to know how you knew print thinness = z axis issue as opposed to other factors.
@@SpringfieldFatts Gotcha because you're only testing the first 1 mm of resin printed, you're going to be in the burn-in and transition layers. A few normal layers but that's not really going to affect this close to the build plate. And if you've already confirmed that your build plate is level by measuring the five squares. The only issue you have left is where the print starts. It's a really just the elimination of other variables.
Great video and great write up. Im still facing some issues while printing pieces with large flat/planar surfaces, the print gets distorted or bend at the edges. Any tips on how to avoid that ?
Slower lift speed and very good supports plus calibration at Dimensional accuracy should help. Finally, make sure that no surfaces are parallel with the LCD as they will always warp.
@@J3DTech Thank u so much 🙏 tried almost everything.. Also i think there is a issue with my Saturn 3 ultra... Every print has a layer shift/ layer lines at a particular height
@@niththomas It does sound suspicious but also make sure you don't have any issues with a heating element that can be inconsistent. Or you're sharing power with another device in your house that can pulled a lot of power. But if it is always exactly in the same spot, I would reach out to Elegoo on that one as it is sounding like you might have a lemon.
that was awesome thank you. when you do the vat clean, do you filter the resins as well? i had a back to back fep tear that happened when trying that for the first times. turns out there was floaters off the screen of the printer.
I do not, cured resin is more dense than uncured resin so it will sink to the bottom. Doing a vat clean will remove all the hard bits. I've had some thin parts like what you're talking about but they generally will also have parts of it that will make contact with the FEP and come up. I'd have to see your process and see what's going on because I have several printers that I haven't taken the vat off of in many months and 10 +++ KG of resin.
Can you elaborate on using a new glove instead of supports to do a vat clean? Do you dunk the whole glove into the vat and push down slightly? Trying to prepare for my first print.
I have gotten straight up hate in replies for posting your suggestions on the facebook groups for resin printers. I just gave up and enjoy my 99.9% success rate instead
I did a test print and cant find anything about my issue…… it only printed the 8mm box and not the 4 or 6, prints very little hairs in the pillars too.
Ah ok, that resin is in a class I call "specialty resin", this in the highly flexible area. It's going to behave very differently and need some different settings. First just keep going on on exposure time till you can get them to fully print. These flex resins are not very accurate but you can still get it as close as you can. Your expectations of perfection will need to drop a little as you switch into, getting it as good as possible. @@Th3Tuski
I just got a new Mars 3, and had someone link me this video to get started. Very useful information, especially regarding the leveling procedure, since I've always seen people talk about the paper method. If I may ask, though, what is the reason for leveling while there's resin in the vat? Is it because you're not going to run the printer dry, and so you'd need to take the volume of resin into account? Or is there some other reason?
Thank you, I'm happy to hear. Did you check out my guide? That's where the real information is. To answer your question. two major reasons: First, it will give you a better level. The resin will get pushed level, filling voids all LCD's and printer have. Creating a suction cup, this will help stop the build plate from lifting during the tightening process. Second, it helps protect the FEP from the build plate that could scratch it. Even more so as your buildplate gets scratches on it.
So I didn't know there was a guide until you'd mentioned it, but I will definitely take a look and read up. Thanks for the heads-up. Also, thanks for the reasoning. Definitely makes sense that it acts like both a barrier and a way to prevent lifting during leveling. Appreciate the quick response.
Am I reading that wrong, are you seriously using a 2s burn-in time? I have this same printer and the lowest I can go is 13s. How is 2s possible? My regular exposure time is around .9s to 1s for the CofC test
Nope you saw it correctly it's 2s I even did a dry print and timed it. Sure, but remember these are for a water washable resin. Burn in 4 layers 2s exposure time 3 transition Distance and speed are the same as in the video 50% UV power Normal layers: same as in the video Exposure time was 1.7s - 1.8s UV power 90%
@@J3DTech ok thank you, I appreciate the clarification. Maybe that makes sense for that particular resin, I've never used water washable. I was using Phrozen Aqua 8K. I know you use a Siraya Tech blend. Off topic here a bit but (1) what printer would you recommend for a larger build plate in terms of quality? (2) do you have a patreon?
@@amrogers3 I don't have one no and don't expect I ever will. My go-to resin is a blend of Navy Gray and tenacious. The larger printer world is hard. I don't feel there are any great ones. But I would go for the Jupiter
@@BetwixtScreens In the video I talk about Boxes of Calibration and I have a link to my entire guide in the description. I cover everything about 3D printing including calibration in there.
@J3D Tech - It's encouraging that you showed your big mistake with the outrageous 'burn in time', but it's also very surprising that an experienced guy like you is _still_ screwing around with the lie about '10x normal exposure for the burn in layers', and just as bad, do you _actually_ believe this nonsense, 'scuffed/engraved/sanded buildplates are good', too? Based on your guide, you have all the tools to have figured this out by now...
What makes you think that I did not intentionally overexposed it so I set up the next scene? Like how I under-exposed it to make them do a vat clean? That said, I didn't expect it to be that hard. That resin and build plate combo was a bit crazy. In one of the shots I added an overlay stating it only needed 2s bun-in time at 50% power. The lowest Burn in time I've ever used is 12s and this was at 20um. I plan on making dedicated videos to troubleshoot failures. I like the idea of it being a story. The story of a man trying to get it right but making mistakes, I feel it's better than being told. However it could open me up to some people thinking I'm not a trusted source of information. What's your opinion on this?
@@J3DTech Just explain what you are doing upfront and I think you will be good. I really like the idea of the mistakes. We all make them and presenting them in this way I think is a good idea.
@@J3DTech If I didn't think you were a good dude, I wouldn't be a long-time subscriber and leave comments 🙂 I am, though, sick of many of the BS 'rules of thumb' that just don't work an victimize serious people with needless troubles like you sowed. For example, I almost never use even 10 seconds of 'burn-in- time', absolutely never 'scuff' or sand a build plate, for example - and the reason is because IT IS WRONG to do so. What is right is good plate tramming/paralleling (aka "leveling"), paying attention to proper wait before and after cure times, lift and retract speeds, and of course proper 'normal' exposure time. How to arrive at all that is pretty straightforward, but it gets confused with unfortunate nonsense that just keeps being re-told like it's some kind of Gospel.
Cant say enough good things about this video. All new info to me, and I have watched dozens of "beginner" videos. This was just great.
Thank you!
Great line ... "You want to shake this resin like it owes you money". Lol
Yep! None of this limp wrist shaking 🫨
I just want to thank you for all the work you've done with 3D printing. You're google doc on it has been a lifesaver for me. I recommend it every chance I get and it hasn't let me down yet.
Thank you! it's great to hear that it's helping people like yourself! If you ever need anything, always feel free to reach out.
I'm watching it for the first time here... but that document.. phenomenal.
This is great. I think the cubes of calibration is one of the best tests out there. I like numbers and 'wrong or right' answers, other calibration parts don't go down that root.
Thank you, I really felt I had to keep it objective and not subjective.
That's even why the pillars have no weights on the end. As soon as I or anyone adds weights. It's subjective, as that person now controls when you're successful or when you fail.
@@J3DTech Could you please do a video on supporting the inside of a hollowed model. Would be greatly appreciated.
@@brendon6930 I have a video on hollowing where I do cover this. In that video I also cover 2D, 3D hollowing, blockers and holes.
@J3DTech - I wanna make sure I’m doing this correctly…I’m using an Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra. The thin part of the build plate calibration pieces measure 1.5mm. Once I’ve returned the build plate to home. Do I use the “Manual” tool, choose “0.1” and then click the down arrow 3 or four times, then go out to the Tool menu and click the “Set Z = 0”?
@@TheMoondougie Correct and then your next print will start with the build plate that much closer to the LCD.
In the drywall or painting section of the hardware store you can find a nice metal scraper about an inch wide. Most of them suck, but if you find one that says "Chisel-Tip" it is a little thicker with a perfect angle to remove prints off the build plate without harming the base of your item.
The new calibration tool with the four satellite components is a fantastic upgrade! Very clever.
Thank you!
At this point these 5 little prints will test for.
Bed leveling
Z-offset
Bun in exposure
Dimensional accuracy
Resin Tensile strength
All with objective results.
Hey, I just want to sat that your boxes od calibration are probably most usefull calibration tool there is. Thanks, for this and for your guide.
@@Xelonius Thank you! I put a lot of work into making sure it was 100% object. So not only can you calibrate your printer. But you can actually use it to compare resin and printers in a way that removes all subjective variables.
Word vomit 🤮 sorry.
I loved this video. Best video ever for beginner with resin 3D printing, and I watched many. I also loved the guide to setting up your printer and resin in a slicer like Chitubox or Lychee. It explains things clearly and understandably and gives examples that work. I also printed the "boxes of calibration" perfectly after reading the guide and watching this video. Highly recommended.
@@johncook538_modelwerks Thank you so much! It's sooo much work to put all this together. It means a great deal when someone takes the time to understand and even more to comment.
Again thank you
@@J3DTech THANK YOU!! I'm a big sci-fi model maker and a lot of subjects are only available through 3D printing. Now I'm able to print tremendous details for my projects. Thanks again.
Ya know, your support video and this video are probably my favorites thus far.
Thank you! Hopefully over time I get better and make even more helpful videos.
Very interesting video. Thank you! I'm new to resin printing and been working on calibrating a Mars 3 Pro. I've gotten the cubes to fit perfectly, going to try this now and check the z offset and leveling. Also going to try the vat leveling technique, seems way better than the paper method.
You deserve more subs and views.
Thank you, let me know how it goes.
Just printed the five flat pieces after doing a new leveling and vat clean. The leveling seems perfect as far as I can tell. I have ordered one of those digital exact measurement tools, for now I used a folding rule with millimeter markings and just my eyes. Far from exact of course but it looks very close to 1 mm. Was thinking of raising the z offset maybe 0.2 mm or so to be safe until I get the tool for exact measurement.
I'm watching it for the first time. Thank you
Let me know if you have any questions
Very happy to discover you've got a CZcams Channel. I began resin printing about 1 year ago, coming from FDM. I read a lot before beginning, but your guide was my bible. I had only two little fails (my fault) in this time. Happy to be able to thank you a lot for this extraordinary guide
Thank you!
You can also find a lot my content on the Lychee Slicer CZcams including a lot of Livestream.
Awesome! Glad you are making an appearance. Is strange not to have one of THEE best Printers not visible in the community. Yes, you wrote the book and have I believe the best printing capabilities but not enough people understand how to do this. I saw on another vid that when raising the z offset that you should end on a DOWN button push. So, if it needs to be raised 4 then raise it 5 or 6 and come down 2 , something about gravity. Now this was for a DELTA FDM printer but maybe it is the same or maybe not with the spiral arm.. Anywho, I am so glad the book is alive!!!!!!!
Thank you very much!
I'm not sure on FDM. I am learning that now but I would say it would not translate into resin at all. These two are so different.
The Z-offset calibration is something I was afraid to share. Im still worried users will spent too much time trying to make it perfect. When + or - 0.2mm is fine.
In resin the Burn in layers will kind of auto level to an extent, being a bit thick can actually be a good thing.
For example if my raft measured 1.2mm I would be happy and leave it alone.
But 0.8mm I would want to increase my offset by 0.2mm.
Perfect or over is the goal under = bad.
I really had to laugh when you said "You really want to shake this resin like it owes you money" almost spit out my water xD
Also great tip with the leveling procedure. The FAP film is flexible, it has to be so simply pushing down the thing should do it, this si not rocket science, I like your take.
Thank you! Glad the joke landed.
Solid video, i've been printing for a while now but i appreciate the near obsessive way you research things. :) Cheers Legend
Thank you and hopefully you still learned something.
Love your videos! very informative. The kind of information you don't get anywhere else.
Thank you! I'll keep them coming.
New j3D calibration part?? Yass please
Calibrate all the tings!
really wish i found this a couple years ago lol returning to this with that gremlin issue on my printer not printable a damn thing. really nice to start from scratch with good fundamentals like this. great stuff mate
Thank you sensei! Every time you help me a lot!
As always, anytime!
I recently bought the Elegoo Mars 4 DLP and printed the build plate test after having started to read your guide. One of those squares had a thickness of 1.03mm while the other four (the center and three corners) were at 0.950. Those weren't the first prints I made. I have already printed a few minis (to test the AA settings), the Cones of Calibration and a few more stuff. I decided to start over after discovering your guide (I plan to do this professionally in the future. I bought the DLP printer so I wouldn't have to worry about the LCD screen as a beginner).
I might have to postpone further calibration/tests though. The room's ambient temperature is around 19-20 degrees celcius (at best the resin has the same temperature). I have ordered a thermal vat band in order to raise the resin temperature to 27-30 C (which might take some time to arrive in Greece).
That distance between the two is more than good. I'd say you're level.
I don't recommend anyone use cones they aren't really calibration.
For the temps, after more experience I recommend 22c-26c but you can get away with 20c.
DLP Printers can be a bit strange with how AA can or can't work. The best printers I've found are 8k as the 12k and 14k printers have all strange quarks.
@@J3DTech Thanks for the advice. When the time comes I plan to go for Uniformation's GK Two and one of Phrozen's printers (still haven't decided which one) . Ideally I would want two large printers (with a good XY resolution) for both large and small prints.
Very good video on the subject of 3d resin printing, I am thrilled with the entire playlist.
This comment is mainly used to feed the CZcams algorithm ;-)
Thank you very much for your time and effort
Kind regards
Harry
Thank you very much!
@@J3DTech
Hello J3D Tech,
may I ask you something?
I printed now the 5 Plates and the result was:
top-left: 1,18mm
top-right: 1,21mm
center: 1,17mm
bottom-left: 1,05mm
bottom-right: 0,95mm
Is this an failed Plate-calibration or something else? I am wondering why the plate is top and center great, and bottom out of everything...
The Plate never fall down to the ground - just if you ask ;-)
thank you for your time and effort.
kind regards
Harry
@@Tutorialgarage In total you're off by 0.26mm from the bottom right to the top right. That's not terrible but it would be nice if you could get it under 0.15mm. It seems like you're applying more pressure to the bottom than the top when you're leaving your plate. Overall they are pretty close to the 1mm so your Z-offset is not really an issue, even less if you could get the bottom and top a little more aligned.
@@J3DTech
Hello Derek?,
Thank you for your time and effort. I think I saw you yesterday on the Dicordserver from Lychee.
I level the Plate new and gott this result:
TopLeft: 1.05
TopRight:1.09
Center: 1.14
BottomLeft: 1.03
BottomRight: 0.95
Your boxes of calibration works well. Thank you.
Btw.: I have to change my Name on the Discordserver 😏
Incredible video as all the one you make. I've watched almost everyone of them and some of them even 2-3 times 😅.
Would it be possible to have some more video on how to correctly support figurines (mainly mid to large size) especially regarding heads with hairs and other highly detailed parts?
I'm following your guide and using all the advices for the base 😁
Thank you very much for your great work 😃
Yes I currently have no video content for this. That's a great idea!
Once again awesome!!
Great video man! Love the new format!
Thank you, it took a lot of work!
@@J3DTech Oh I bet, but once you find the workflow it will be easier. I think this kind of videos could propel you to the next level :)
Awesome video, keep them coming! ❤
Thank you for sharing this video.
Subbed right away
Are you sure that the Mini 8k(s) have a screenprotector over his screen after removing the peel sheet? I wasnt sure about this and put and fixated a Fep over it. Probably not the best for quality and would be rubbish if there was alrdeady a protector.
Yep, well it "should" I cant garantee the QA of anything.
I am looking at doing large prints that have detail, have asked around and FDM will not cut it, what resin printer has the largest screen. That you would recommend?
I would look at the sonic-mega-8k-v2 or the Phrozen Sonic Mega 8K S.
Thanks!
THank you so much for all of your help.. You are wonderffull
I love your guides and videos, I have a question on the reason for having resin in the vat when you're doing a vat level... Mainly, what purpose does it serve to have resin in the vat during the levelling process? Wouldn't that increase the chances that the vat would be crooked if you're pressing down harder on one side than the other?
I've not seen it cause an issue with making it unlevel due to pressure.
But now that I have the Base calibration part I can get feedback from others to verify.
But there are three main reasons.
1. Emptying the Vat is work and messy and a horrible workflow.
2. The resin keeps the build plate from scratching the FEP.
3. The resin makes a suction cup keeping it secure when tightening.
@@J3DTech thanks for the quick answer! I expected that #2 was one of the reasons. I have a mighty 8K and because I have more money than sense some times (and wanted to be able to vat swap to clean or run different resins) I have two vats for my printer.
With that, when I need to level or re-level my plate, I just throw the empty vat on the printer (which already has a more worn FEP) level it up, then put the other vat back rather than draining it.
Thanks again for the quick response!
@@adamosmond9982 I have a extra VAT and buildplate leveld to that VAT for my printers. I have a resin I use 90% of the time, but that other 10% it's easy to have a spare. I also dont need to clean the 90% VAT just store it in a bin.
@@J3DTech Exactly! That was my whole thought. I have a nice lockable lid container for my second vat with exactly that purpose in mind. Keeps the vat clean, the fep clean (I want to print some stand offs to glue to the bottom for the posts that lock in, so the vat hovers in the container) but that is exactly why I wanted to get a second vat.
And thanks to you and Ty at Tableflip, I use the Siraya Tech blend, and have infinitely less failures than when I started.
Thanks again for all you do!
Thank you very much for this interesting and extensive video. I would like to ask two questions, if possible from here. Is there any explanation possible about "COMPENSATION"? and how to avoid elephant foot, from Chitubox I understand it and eliminate it well, but from Lychee I am not able to. Thank you so much
First I want to say, this feature is not necessary unless you must print directly onto the build plate. Something I rarely recommend in resin 3D printing. That said, you use it as a negative value. It will delete pixels around the base of the object so that after the elephant's foot effect is finished the current base is very close to the size of the original. There is no trick to it, just print a small object and play with the value till you find the balance between burn in exposure time and compensation.
@@J3DTech Thanks for your answer. So the 5 build calibration plates, shouldn't I print them directly on the build plate? I ask this because I want to make some flat flower designs to use as a pin.
@@tonimorato2749 these ones. Yes, they are designed to be printed directly on the build plate.
The difference here is that most calibration prints come with a raft pre-installed and are designed to be printed directly on the build plate. Where your 3D model may not be.
a new question, to test the boxes, do I need to wash and cure first?
It is 100% up to you. Measing them before curing will test your calibraion after the print, teting them after curing will test your resins post process shrinking. Just one more thing this calibraion print does out of the box. ;)
Short question, in Lychee Slicer the boxes are 1,65 mm high. Can you elaborate how you come to 1mm thickness when the sliced file is already 1,65mm thick?
I'm not 100% sure what you mean? The raft on the boxes should measure at 1mm when the print is finished. In Lychee where are you messing from? We can't post screenshots in this chat. But if you reach out on the Lychee Slicer discord I can show the exact measurements of the model.
Just try your xl calibration, what if on the left i got 1,2 and on the right about 1,4 1,5, do i need restart the leveling because the plate isn't horizontal?
On what printer? With the XL you will often get a thicker raft due to the heat and the size of the part, so on this we care more 1. Did they all print, Yes good, Are they all about the same thickness?
What you want is from the thinest to the thickness no great then 0.3mm difference. 0.2mm if you can get it, but some printers just cant.
On a elegoo mars 3, yes There is a raft who appear, so it's normal? But the size are différent from the left to the right, 0,2 0,3 mm différence so it make 1,2 mm on the left with raft and 1,5 on the right.
@@J3DTech On a elegoo mars 3, they all print good, but the thickness on the left was 1,2 and on the right 1,5 approximatly, (mesure with a meter), difference between left and right can be a problem?
@@Kivar1 It's about as much as you want it. If you want to try to level again you can but it's probably ok
@@J3DTech Ok, thx a lot
vat cleaning: "the sheet of cured money that you pull out"
It's about 0.2c per sheet on average. Far cheaper than a $100 - $450 LCD that a single mistake can cost. Or even the $10 - $30 FEP/ACF. In the end, it is highly worth the cost and that's before you get into the time savings.
The alternative is to empty the vat through a strainer, a paper strainer will cost more then the resin of the cured sheet. You can use a metal version you must clean but there is a time and cost to that as well. Mostly in the IPA and paper.
Can you post a link to your slap mat you used? Also, on one of your older videos you had a huge blue mat, did you get this from Uline? I am trying to find a 24" x 72"
Great Video, im scared to remove the entire build plate using the large knob. Fearing that I will not retighten to the "set 0" torque of the knob. Do you remove the entire build plate every print, and what is your success rate when re installing for back to back printing with no down time?
I can go 6+ months without re-leveling or a failure
Great video! I've only printed a few things with my Mighty 8K, but one was an abject failure, and I think I've damaged the vat film. How much can that film be dented before it's too much?
It's a dangerous game, a nFEP is about $10 and you want to have 2 extra on hand at all times. If the dent is pretty noticeable I would not trust it.
thanks for the video, I always tried the cones of calibration, but now I am going to try your boxes of calibration. Question, where did you buy that silicon pad?
In the bottom of my guide I have all the links to the products I'm using including the pad.
Great video thx :) Can we do the leveling on the ACF film with an elegoo mars 3? Or we need to do with a paper like it's say on the notice? Because i want to change the nfep by an acf but it's not the same thickness... :/
@@Kivar1 Yes you can. But I still recommend printing the build plate calibration parts after that to confirm your level and Z offset and going from there.
@@J3DTech Thx ! and i can do it without resin in the vat or it must be with?
@@Kivar1 Either way but a little resin makes it better.
@@J3DTech Ok Thx a lot !
when calibrating the printer, you mentioned doing a "Fingernail test" i don't have calipers, can you describe what the fingernail test is?
This is to send them next to each other and use your fingernail or a pencil to draw between them.
Also I've since released the XL version that can be done.. with adequate accuracy.
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/biuld-plate-calibraion-xl-designed-for-rerf-or-whatever
Could be wrong but I did not see any info in your guide regarding proper ventilation for your resin prints(tried searching for key words and skimmed through it). Does the room you print in have a fan venting to the outside? Are activated carbon filters adequate for VOC/resin fume exposure if you have to use an indoor room?
It's a topic I'm afraid to cover as I don't consider myself in a good position to give this type of advice.
That said. I do run a 4" fan outside from my printing roll. 24/7.
My printing room is waterproof and covered in tile.
I also have 4 large carbon activated filters throughout my house, one just outside the room and one inside every bedroom.
This is extremely disheartening. I purchased a grow tent filter with activated charcoal and i assumed that with a closed room would be enough. It seems like that room would need to be vented outside regardless. I have those crank windows so i don't see a way to do permanent ventilation. I cant modify my house either by making a hole through the wall.@@J3DTech
@@project_hollow6627 If you have access to a window you can create or buy or 3D print a shim that goes in there that you can use to connect up to a fan. If you can get a fan through the window, you're good to go
I printed all calibration prints and they were 1.1 mm thick, is this acceptable or will it cause problems with future prints? Also, I noticed the bottom/back of the pieces, I have very small bubbles that were in the first couple burn-in layers. Are these likely because I shook the resin too vigorously before pouring or I didn't wait long enough for the resin to settle in the vat? My resin is ELEGOO Upgraded 8K Standard Photopolymer space grey resin and I used 8/60 exposure time per "unofficial" community settings for this resin on Elegoo's website.
1.1 is perfectly acceptable.
Yes give it a 5+ min wait before you start your print.
@@J3DTech legend, thanks man
I got a question about this the Z-Offset. In the time stamp 10:09, you just press the "start" in the "z control" option, to move the buildplate to the home position. But I saw that build plate in the video is tightened... that is not dangerous for the lcd screen?
I already leveled it. At this point I'm just sending it home so I can set the Z-offset.
@J3DTech Yes yes... I got that part, my friend. I was just scare because the screws of the build plate are tightened and not loose. But I already did and... nothings happened so.. forget the stupid question hahahaa XD 😅😅😅😆
you picked the mini 8k s and said you like your own profile settings (your vids walking me through this). 5:35 They dont have any shared settings for mini 8k s yet. Im assuming they will be different from the mini 8k yes (I know absolutely nothing)? Guessing i should not use the 8k settings?
They are all community profiles based on the resin you're using.
They will be a bit different from what I have seen the 8ks cures faster than the 8k.
But this is why you need to calibrate. No profile will be the same. You can use all my settings but exposure times you will need to calibrate for.
Great video! I have one issue, maybe you can help me. When leveling the plate and doing the calibration test, the rafts on the edges come out perfectly, but the one in the middle doesn't stick to the build plate. I've tried lowering the lift speeds and increasing the lift distances, but I still get the same issue. I also sanded the build plate and checked with a ruler and light for some uneven spots. Any ideas?
I've seen this a few times. And it is often because the build plate isn't flat you corrected that. Did you also scuff it up to add a texture?
The LCD is warped, harder to check but 100% an issue mostly on the Phrozen 8k.
Make sure that the FEP and LCD are in good working condition.
Make sure you're lifting high enough. What printer and slicer?
@@J3DTech Yep, I'm 100% sure the build plate is flate, I sanded it with 120g, then with 80g to give it a bit of texture (I followed a video that explains it rly well).
The printer is a Mars 3 Pro, Im using Chitubox Pro as my slicer.
I tried with 10mm lift distance and 20mm lifting speed so I'm pretty sure thats not the issue.
The FEP is new and I'm pretty sure it has the perfect tension (I checked the frequency of the sound with the phone app). I've never heard of the bend LCD problem on the Mars 3 :/
@@FrankieMankie Nope the Mars line is to small to have that issue. When you finish the prints, did you measure the low spot to see how thick it is, it should meaure 1mm.
What resin are you using?
How many Bottom layers
Transition layers
Bottom exposure settings
Layer thickness.
Wait before print (Light off delay)
@@J3DTech Yep, all low-spots on the 4 rafts on the edges measure 1mm exactly.
I am using Elegoo Water Washable with 6 bottom layers at 20s, 3 transition layers, layer thickness of 0.05mm, light off delay of 0.5s.
However, I just did a test with 30s bottom exposure and the one in the middle actually printed!!
I dont get it, with 20s bottom exposure the ones on the edges print but the one in the middle doesnt, and then with 30s they all print?
I used to print with 20s bottom exposure in hot weather 30-35°C, now its 23-25°, does that affect how much bottom exposure I have to use?
(By the way thank you for the quick answers!!)
@@FrankieMankie Ah the age old ruck of MOOOARRR :) I would recommend using 2s light off delay however, this will make a MASSIVE improvement to the quality of your prints.
5c is a massive change, it will 100% change how your printer works. This is why I recommend getting a heater for your printer. In my guide at the bottom I have a few options with pros and cons.
I am using Lychee Pro version 5 (5.4.300) and the add new resin menu looks much simpler. No transition layer count, no retract distance, no wait before / after print or lift, light intensity. It looks much simpler. Am I missing something or on the wrong page??
Thank you
These settings are based upon the printer, not on the slicer itself. Which printer did you add?
@@J3DTech I added the Anycubic Photon Mono X
@@davesenor3146 That printer does not have the same functions of newer printers. IT does have TSMC but it's build into the firmware and you cant controll it.
My hero!!!... My resin hero.. my sexy resin hero! XD
I’ve looked at cannot find a way to change z-offset in the Uniformation GKTwo. Anyone know if it has this and if so, how to do it?
I don't think you can. It has an auto leveling system that works very differently.
I personally don't have one so I'm not as familiar with it as I am with other printers.
I think you’re correct.
When doing calibration prints for bed level and exposure, are burn in and transition layers accounted for? When I did your bed leveling one on the GKTwo, they were all within +/- 0.08mm thickness of each other, but averaged around 1.6mm thick. They all interlocked great though. Should I be concerned?
@@IKilledYourDude The print is thick enough to absorb a reasonable amount of burn in and transition layers. If you're printing at 0.05mm and the prart is 1mm thick that would give you 20 layers.
You should really only use 4-5 burn in and 3-5 transition layers.
I'd like a little more details on the Z-offset issue. It may be what I'm struggling with.
What type of printer do you have?
@@J3DTech Photon M3 regular version.
@@SpringfieldFatts I have 3 Anycubic printers and so far they work the same. You first set it home, then you use the 0.1mm button and 0.05mm button to input the difference of where your part measued. Then hit Z=0, the printer should come up with a prompt to hit Enter.
See about half way down.
manuals.plus/anycubic/photon-m3-premium-8k-high-precision-3d-printer-manual#axzz87jrKxEsM
@@J3DTech sorry, should of specified I know how to set the axis, just wanted to know how you knew print thinness = z axis issue as opposed to other factors.
@@SpringfieldFatts Gotcha because you're only testing the first 1 mm of resin printed, you're going to be in the burn-in and transition layers. A few normal layers but that's not really going to affect this close to the build plate.
And if you've already confirmed that your build plate is level by measuring the five squares. The only issue you have left is where the print starts.
It's a really just the elimination of other variables.
Great video and great write up. Im still facing some issues while printing pieces with large flat/planar surfaces, the print gets distorted or bend at the edges. Any tips on how to avoid that ?
Slower lift speed and very good supports plus calibration at Dimensional accuracy should help.
Finally, make sure that no surfaces are parallel with the LCD as they will always warp.
@@J3DTech Thank u so much 🙏 tried almost everything.. Also i think there is a issue with my Saturn 3 ultra... Every print has a layer shift/ layer lines at a particular height
@@niththomas It does sound suspicious but also make sure you don't have any issues with a heating element that can be inconsistent. Or you're sharing power with another device in your house that can pulled a lot of power.
But if it is always exactly in the same spot, I would reach out to Elegoo on that one as it is sounding like you might have a lemon.
that was awesome thank you. when you do the vat clean, do you filter the resins as well? i had a back to back fep tear that happened when trying that for the first times. turns out there was floaters off the screen of the printer.
I do not, cured resin is more dense than uncured resin so it will sink to the bottom.
Doing a vat clean will remove all the hard bits.
I've had some thin parts like what you're talking about but they generally will also have parts of it that will make contact with the FEP and come up.
I'd have to see your process and see what's going on because I have several printers that I haven't taken the vat off of in many months and 10 +++ KG of resin.
Can you elaborate on using a new glove instead of supports to do a vat clean? Do you dunk the whole glove into the vat and push down slightly? Trying to prepare for my first print.
Just the finger, make sure to put it so that it covers the cover of the LCD not just the VAT
Hopefully there is a fair comparison between Elegoo Mars4_untra vs Phrozen Sonic Mini 8KS
Sadly I don't have a Mars4 to do anything like this.
I have gotten straight up hate in replies for posting your suggestions on the facebook groups for resin printers. I just gave up and enjoy my 99.9% success rate instead
I'm sorry to hear this, I'm sure I'm aware of some of the reasons. All I can do is provide the information and tools to help.
I did a test print and cant find anything about my issue…… it only printed the 8mm box and not the 4 or 6, prints very little hairs in the pillars too.
That would mean you're under exposing. Add 2s and try again, it's always better to shoot over and work back down.
Okay. So go from 3.3s to 5.3s?
@@Th3Tuski what printer and resin?
@@J3DTech anycubic m5s pro w/ resione anti impact.
Ah ok, that resin is in a class I call "specialty resin", this in the highly flexible area. It's going to behave very differently and need some different settings. First just keep going on on exposure time till you can get them to fully print. These flex resins are not very accurate but you can still get it as close as you can. Your expectations of perfection will need to drop a little as you switch into, getting it as good as possible. @@Th3Tuski
I just got a new Mars 3, and had someone link me this video to get started. Very useful information, especially regarding the leveling procedure, since I've always seen people talk about the paper method.
If I may ask, though, what is the reason for leveling while there's resin in the vat? Is it because you're not going to run the printer dry, and so you'd need to take the volume of resin into account? Or is there some other reason?
Thank you, I'm happy to hear. Did you check out my guide? That's where the real information is.
To answer your question. two major reasons:
First, it will give you a better level. The resin will get pushed level, filling voids all LCD's and printer have. Creating a suction cup, this will help stop the build plate from lifting during the tightening process.
Second, it helps protect the FEP from the build plate that could scratch it. Even more so as your buildplate gets scratches on it.
So I didn't know there was a guide until you'd mentioned it, but I will definitely take a look and read up. Thanks for the heads-up.
Also, thanks for the reasoning. Definitely makes sense that it acts like both a barrier and a way to prevent lifting during leveling. Appreciate the quick response.
Am I reading that wrong, are you seriously using a 2s burn-in time? I have this same printer and the lowest I can go is 13s. How is 2s possible? My regular exposure time is around .9s to 1s for the CofC test
nevermind, it is late and I am super tired. I see that you did that and got a failed print. Can you post your final Lychee settings?
Nope you saw it correctly it's 2s I even did a dry print and timed it.
Sure, but remember these are for a water washable resin.
Burn in
4 layers
2s exposure time
3 transition
Distance and speed are the same as in the video
50% UV power
Normal layers: same as in the video
Exposure time was 1.7s - 1.8s
UV power 90%
@@J3DTech ok thank you, I appreciate the clarification. Maybe that makes sense for that particular resin, I've never used water washable. I was using Phrozen Aqua 8K. I know you use a Siraya Tech blend. Off topic here a bit but (1) what printer would you recommend for a larger build plate in terms of quality? (2) do you have a patreon?
@@J3DTech 👍
@@amrogers3 I don't have one no and don't expect I ever will.
My go-to resin is a blend of Navy Gray and tenacious.
The larger printer world is hard. I don't feel there are any great ones. But I would go for the Jupiter
Would the settings you shared be worth trying with my Water washable resin?
They will work with any resin after calibration.
@@J3DTech, I'm confused by this how do you calibrate then? Like is the settings not the calibration?
@@BetwixtScreens In the video I talk about Boxes of Calibration and I have a link to my entire guide in the description. I cover everything about 3D printing including calibration in there.
@@J3DTech Yes, Sir. I'm reading your guide it just I might be a little slow. I'm trying though, and appreciate your guides and help.
@@BetwixtScreens NP, it's a lot to go though and learn. Took me ages to gate and test the information and get it all written.
this guy is amazing
Thank you!
@J3D Tech - It's encouraging that you showed your big mistake with the outrageous 'burn in time', but it's also very surprising that an experienced guy like you is _still_ screwing around with the lie about '10x normal exposure for the burn in layers', and just as bad, do you _actually_ believe this nonsense, 'scuffed/engraved/sanded buildplates are good', too?
Based on your guide, you have all the tools to have figured this out by now...
What makes you think that I did not intentionally overexposed it so I set up the next scene?
Like how I under-exposed it to make them do a vat clean?
That said, I didn't expect it to be that hard.
That resin and build plate combo was a bit crazy.
In one of the shots I added an overlay stating it only needed 2s bun-in time at 50% power. The lowest Burn in time I've ever used is 12s and this was at 20um.
I plan on making dedicated videos to troubleshoot failures. I like the idea of it being a story. The story of a man trying to get it right but making mistakes, I feel it's better than being told.
However it could open me up to some people thinking I'm not a trusted source of information.
What's your opinion on this?
@@J3DTech Just explain what you are doing upfront and I think you will be good. I really like the idea of the mistakes. We all make them and presenting them in this way I think is a good idea.
@@J3DTech If I didn't think you were a good dude, I wouldn't be a long-time subscriber and leave comments 🙂
I am, though, sick of many of the BS 'rules of thumb' that just don't work an victimize serious people with needless troubles like you sowed. For example, I almost never use even 10 seconds of 'burn-in- time', absolutely never 'scuff' or sand a build plate, for example - and the reason is because IT IS WRONG to do so.
What is right is good plate tramming/paralleling (aka "leveling"), paying attention to proper wait before and after cure times, lift and retract speeds, and of course proper 'normal' exposure time.
How to arrive at all that is pretty straightforward, but it gets confused with unfortunate nonsense that just keeps being re-told like it's some kind of Gospel.