Become a Hollowing Expert In Lychee - SAVE MONEY!
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- čas přidán 28. 01. 2023
- #lychee #resin
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Totally underrated channel, your videos are so clear, info packed and straight to the point. Keep it up!
Thank you! I've got soo many more videos I want to make as well. Hopefully each video I get that much better at making them.
This is perfect. Thank you!
Solid info, your google doc is a lifesaver.
Thank you! This is an excellent tutorial. I appreciate you sharing it.
Thanks you!
Thank you for this video! Very clear and easy to follow. Subscribed!
Thank you
Great video. Learned quite a lot
Great video. Big fan of yours. Still remember our talk on Discord a while ago. Great guy! Keep up the good work!
Thank you!
Great video, Thanks
Thank you!
i think ill subscribe!!
Great video. Will def come back to watch again in future.
I know 3D hollow is always going to be better BUT you didn't touch upon making holes for 2D even without detecting suction cups.
That is true, suction cup detection is a Pro feature and does not work in 2D. I should have shown how adding holes in 2D is close to the same as 3D if just a little bit harder.
very informative!
Thank you!
Super clear explanation, actually one of the most usefull 3d printing channel and not just the usual "Yo this is a 3D printer and it prints stuff with resin!"
Side question, what if i cant add drain holes but i still want to hollow my miniature? In this specific scenario i have a test cube but i cant put any holes in it, should i ignore hollowing in this case?
Grat tutorials btw
Thank you! To answer your question don't hollow it if you can't add drain holes. Not only will the suction forces cause it to most likely fail but it will be filled with uncured resin that will off gas and blow up some day. Throwing uncured resin all over that will cure in any sunlight destroying anything it splattered on.
OMG this was an amazing video. I love the explanation on blockers and holes in general. Fantastic video.
Thanks!
Thank you very much, I happy you enjoyed it! Don't forget to check out my guide.
Thanks for the good video, now I now what the blockers do, I though that they add a plane 3d volume, so I spent too much time to scale these xD. btw at what size do you ignore suction cups?
I don't have a set size but small to medium-small are ok. If I was to give a size, under 5mm probably ok, larger than that see if there is a good way to clear it.
Great video! How do you create the "Interior Pillar" support setting? Whenever I try to create a setting it's also tied to the standard light, medium, or heavy settings. I can't select only my custom support setting.
I have 2 shorts where I cover how to make custom supports in Lychee. It can be a bit confusing.
Also you need to make the pillars thicker first. The support tip can't be thicker than the support shaft.
That's exactly what I needed. Thanks for responding so quickly!
Great video!
I have couple of questions.
1st one is about the option in "Prepare" phase, Hollow -> Holes that says "object is a hole" ON/OFF
How does it work?
Is it possible to use another object to make a hole (in the general sense) in the main model?
If yes, can I use it on models that aren't actually hollowed?
For example if I want to make a dead-end hole in models limbs to insert magnets. Or if I want to manipulate the bottom of a base.
If possible I guess many use-cases will appear.
2nd one is about objects stacking.
Can I put objects next or on top of each other (with slight overlap) and expect that it'll print as a continuous single piece?
Some simple example could be if I print a human model standing upright with feet on the plate, I can insert a cylinder from the library and resize it to act as a base for the model.
If I make the cylinder for example 5mm thick and position the feet of the human to start slightly lower - lets say 4.5mm, would it print as a single piece (ignoring supports - imagine we don't need them).
Real-world case could be to make a cylinder that's about 0.5mm thick but with diameter ~1mm smaller than a base I'm printing flat, so that this thin cylinder will cover the height of the bottom layers cured at ~10 times the normal layers, which would normally cause elephant foot (lets assume that elephant foot protrudes to the sides with 1mm).
This way the cylinder would be printed mostly with the bottom layers cure time, which would cause it to expand slightly and would match the diameter of the base itself.
(even if the cylinder doesn't expand to the complete base diameter it's ok to be slightly smaller since it's hidden and a ~1mm difference won't affect the model stability)
Actually I saw some people using the raft for that purpose, when you make it slightly smaller than the base and only ~0.5mm thick (ie thick enough to cover all long-cure-time layers).
But using the raft can be an obstacle if you want to put a hole on the bottom (in case of hollowing the base for example).
But if it's possible to use one cylinder as additional 0.5mm base, and then another smaller one as a hole in the first one, you'll be able to have holes in your base (or whatever your model is), and even could use the same hole-object to put a hole in both simultaneously.
I don't know if that would work since Lychee explain that holes aren't boolean (I'm not sure that I understand that correctly - but I think they mean that if white pixels are part of your model, holes don't simply make them black), but actually pierce two holes on the two surfaces of the wall - ie the hole passes thru that wall.
But that's for the normal holes you use, I don't know if that applies for the object-hole.
1: Object is a hole. This is where you can use another object to act like a hole. This does not boole or let you use the part as a plug. Simply it won't print the overlapping area. You also cannot export the object as an STL with the cut.
- It does work on models that are not hollowed.
2. There are many tricks to printing on the build plate, in my guide I cover a few of them. Adding another smaller object works as well, I often see it used. It can be a bit tricky as the bottom edge can still warp due to having no support as blooming is not exact.
3. You can stack items. Any two items that intersect will print as a single object, the intersecting structure just becoming solid resin. Get creative and do what you will with this info.
4. Holes are not Boole, this means that it's not going to keep the surface geometry of the model and patch around it. This is very challenging to do. However Lychee has been hinting that this feature is on their list of active projects.
@@J3DTech , Thanks for the lightning fast response! :)
1: "- It does work on models that are not hollowed." - Great! I can use it to put holes for magnets.
About the blooming not being exact, I guess I'll have to guestimate and test to get it more accurate (for a given resin).
About 4. library objects stacked under the model does get exported in stl, so if I import it anew it behaves as a single object.
Same applies to the holes made from the menu (but not for the library-object-holes).
Yes, I noticed the "convert holes into geometry" is marked as coming soon, that would be great!
The above gives me enough options for now :)
Thanks again!
@@blueckaym No problem and if you have any more questions don't hesitate to ask.
greetings! how is possible to export hollowed object into stl format(saving hollowing and supports)? thanks in advance for help!
Yes but only if it's a 3D hollowing not a 2D
Thank you for this tutorial! How do I execute the cutting of the holes to save the .obj file?
For 3D printing I would use STL I know it's an older format but it's more compatible in this market.
For resin if you want to convert it from code to gemotety you can export the file as the .STL under the export TAB.
Note: If a hole is red it won't export to gemotety.
Unless your goal is to make this file available to others I would keep it as a .lys to slice. This will offer you the best results.
Thanks for the reply! I am using it to make 3D prints, but if I save it as an .stl Blender doesn't seem to be able to import it. Also, I am trying to cut a hole in the bottom of my object so I can put led lights inside, but I keep getting the red hole and can't figure how to make it not red. I will keep trying. It looks like the hole in Lychee is not to be used as a boolean. I am trying to boolean a hole in Blender to my Lychee hollowed object, but the booltool doesn't work with the file and I can't boolean a hole. @@J3DTech
@@JamesFranssen Correct it's a function of hollowing.
If you slice it as a . Lys the red areas will not get printed this will leave holes.
I don't know if I missed it but what do I do with the eggs now? Why am I working on large pieces and can those gaps be exported and then covered?
I'm sorry I'm not following what you're saying, eggs?
so how does it print the hole caps?
Under Hollowing there are three options, cap, hole and cap + hole.
If you select the hole you want to generate a cap for. Then select only the option to make a CAP it will add that object to the scene. Give it some supports and you're done.
A tip, you can adjust the tolerance better the hole and cap. I suggest. 0.1mm
How are you resizing the holes? I'm on a Mac. Is there a key combination? I tried using right click, but lychee didn't bother to add context menus to enter sizing or scaling modes. Boo.
Hitting space should open the edit functions but you need pro
@@J3DTech I have pro. That's what I get for ignoring the tiny help text at the bottom.
as far as the 2D hollowing goes and not being able to export an stl, my honest question is why would you want to in the first place?
quality content, sub'd
3D hollowing is only offered in the payed version of Lychee. 2D is all you get for the free.
@@J3DTech right, I'm saying why would you want to export an stl? a .ctb etc is all you need to print. An stl would be useful for bringing it back into a 3D app which at the point in the process would unneeded. Trying to basically decide if I need pro or not :P
@@digitalsmithy A lot of individuals who use slicers do it professionally. They offer the .STL version hollowed and supported for others to print.
In some cases where I want the support shaft to go up through a hole and support the model on the other side of the hole, I will hollow it, place the holes, export it as an STL then bring it back into Lychee and support it.
@@J3DTech Ohhhhh well duh! that makes sense. Derp.
Interesting technique too, I'll try and incorporate that into my mindset while slicing. Thanks!
@@digitalsmithy Anytime
How do you deal with invalid holes? I’ve added drain and suction relief holes that are fine for a while, then for no apparent reason they turn red. I keep playing Wack-a-Mole with these holes for about 75% of the slicing time for any given model. It’s beyond frustrating and I’m barely able to print anything due to unresolved holes.
Their red if they dont go into a hollow section, meaning they're not deep enough to reach a void or if they penetrate the model entirely.
@@J3DTech I'm always careful that they do. They don't touch walls of the cavity, and the ends are both clear of obstructions. It's maddening.
@@briancaldwell9038 Yes, after a while you just learn to ignore the Red. I have all ready notified Lychee Devs that it's an issue that would be nice if they resolved it.
@@J3DTech I hope they do. Other than that I like it. Thanks for the replies 👍
I am trying to 3D print a hollow Iron Man helmet and it shows to be hollow before I slice but after I slice it gets all filled in. I have put the infill to 0 and the top and bottom thickness are also 0. Can you please help me?
If it's been hollowed before it can be difficult. How large is it? Life-size?
@@J3DTech Yes it is life-size. It will be big enough for my head to fit inside. I am also using an Ender 3 Max Neo so the bedplate will be big enough. I am trying to print it all at once so that it will take less filament. I am currently using the newest creality slicer although I do have access to prusa, meshmixer, blender and cura.
Also thanks for the very quick response. I tried emailing the creality support 2 months ago and they still didn't respond. I was actually going to make this for Halloween but I couldn't because of them. Anyway, thank you.
@@Jackhi-xl3in For FDM it's a very different system. IF you join the Lychee Discord we have a channel for FDM and the Lychee Man "Jonathan | Lychee Team" that helps users out is very smart.
discord.gg/lychee-slicer-722410197095677954
i cant get lynchee to take my money is the website broke?
If you went here and it's not working correctly I could reach out to their support to see what's going on.
account.mango3d.io/lychee/purchase