Resto-Mod Mini - #4 | Splitting the engine
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2023
- #classicmini #restomod #engine
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Very Jethro Bronner esque. I like 😊
I've been running the MED timing cover since it was released several years ago, not had any leaks from it and it's been dismantled several times. Plenty of free play available in the seal plate to centralise it on the pulley as well. My all alloy MED duplex kit was a perfect fit on an MED billet crank. Hopefully I won't have any vernier gear bolt issues, all torqued and loctited.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I don't know what I am doing wrong. Maybe the nose of my crank is a little off center? Who knows, either way I am hopeful the belt drive will fix it up. Will be cool to try a belt system though.
@@classicminidiy we used to do a fair number of "seal savers" (basically a very thin sleeve you fit over the crank) on MG crankshafts, the oil seal tends to wear a groove in the crank after 30 or 40 years, and they will always leak if that's the case. It doesn't take much wear to leak either.
Must also say my MED timing gear fits perfectly and I match marked all bolts and not one had moved nor had the outer ring on the gear. I use the DSN billet timing case and it's fantastic. Just about the only part of my engine that isn't leaking at the moment 😂
Ps I couldn't be without my milwaukee m12 ratchet! Such a time saver aren't they.
Great Progress kiddo. And you sure know how to make engine parts look pretty. Keep going!
Love the idea of a ride by wire throttle body. Will you sell a full package for a SPI upgraded to 1293 with sw5 cam including loom and remapped ECU?
I don't have any plans to carry a complete kit at this time but it is something I am open to considering in the future. The biggest hurdle for me is maintaining that inventory and also being able to provide the level of support that would be required for that. There are companies out now who just leave you out to the wind after selling you a kit and I don't want to mimic that behavior. At a minimum I would love to create a wiring diagram for the Haltech R3 setup I do, and then maybe a parts list for people to use as a reference sheet.
I used belt drives from SH Engineering, MiniSpares and KAD with no issues. No unusual belt wear, timing always held and never a leak. You do need a vented timing case, that is important. I ran them under pretty extreme racing conditions. I also strongly recommend (hard to tell from the video) upgrading the bolts which attach the block to the gearbox to 5/16 from 1/4. I have seen cars which snapped off 1/4 bolts. I used high strength AN or hex bolts..and also used 3M The Right Stuff to ensure no leaks....which can be an issue there.
Nice video man good job, great editing
Good to see things coming along, Cole. I'm just prepping my shell for epoxy primer, then bracing and a lot of cutting.
(I also have your coil mount bracket drawn up in CAD, just need to drop an engine into my good subframe and check it for clearance.)
Looking forward to getting the bracket in hand! :-) I forget are you doing the epoxy primer yourself or are you sending it to a body shop?
@@classicminidiy Doing it all myself, from the priming, panel replacement, painting, and of course all the mechanical rebuilding. The mechanicals are easy... bodywork, not so much. I see all these guys on YT in the UK doing these (nicely) with little experience and minimal tools though and I cant help think I can get this done. Tons of time though. Already spent several hours pounding on dents today, amazing how taking the car to bare metal creates a lot more work.
Where r u located? I wad luv to send my Joy to You for updating.
Just a little pet peeve of mine, gears mesh with gears, chains mesh with sprockets.
Five spread gearbox coming?
Probably not. The 5 speed boxes are not very strong and cant handle the power I am putting through it unfortunately.
Why is this not in Italian. Totally agree Stephen @ MED is a huge help, but that centering that timing cover seal was impossible for me too. As you know the cover doesn't really move around and self-align as claimed; you have to fasten the cover where the bolts put it, whether aligned or not. I'm leaking too from there.
Come si dice Classic Mini DIY in italiano? I am glad I am not the only one who is suffering this leak. Drives me absolutely mental.
What I'd try at that point is drilling the cover bolt holes slightly oversize (say 1/16") to allow the cover to walk around a little when fitting it. Maybe you or Cole tried that already? This is probably one of those areas when the precision of CNC milling is too close for the tolerance A series engines were built to in the day. Unfortunate that MED won't recognize there's an issue and figure out a solution.
I haven't tried it but its a really good idea. The only thing I could see being an issue or at least something to think about, would be the rubber seal around the lid. Making sure it has clean contact all the way around.
@@classicminidiy is it an o-ring type seal in a groove?
@@rennkafer13 yeah it’s an o-ring and a bit small I think.
So what’s the benefit of a duplo chain set up?
In a standard engine, not a whole lot. I’m high output engines it’s stronger for the torque. Most engines are perfectly fine with a simplex(single) chain setup.