Classic Mini DIY - How to Replace your Clutch without Removing your Engine
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- čas přidán 12. 10. 2018
- In this episode, I dive into how to replace your clutch in the classic mini, as well as all the different kinds of clutches used on the Mini.
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Parts in this Episode:
Pre-Verto Clutch - cmdiy.co/PreVertoClutchKit
Verto Clutch Carb/SPI - cmdiy.co/SPIClutchKit
Verto Clutch MPI - cmdiy.co/MPIClutchKit
Flywheel Puller - cmdiy.co/FlywheelPuller
Flywheel Straps(pre-verto) -
Flywheel Key(pre-verto) - cmdiy.co/PreVertoFlywheelKey
Flywheel Key(verto) - cmdiy.co/VertoFlywheelKey
Clutch Strap Bolts - cmdiy.co/StrapBolts
KAD Flywheel Bolt - cmdiy.co/FlywheelBoltKADPreVerto
Heavy Duty Release Bearing(pre-verto) - cmdiy.co/ReleaseBearingPreVerto
Heavy Duty Release Bearing(verto) - cmdiy.co/ReleaseBearingVerto
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Support the Channel:
Patreon Link - / classicminidiy
Merch - merch.classicminidiy.com
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Affiliate Links:
Seven Mini Parts Affiliate Link - bit.ly/7evenmini
Amazon Shop - bit.ly/cmdiyshop
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Collaborators:
Seven Mini Parts - / 7enterprises
Total Car Reviews - bit.ly/totalcarreviews
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Social Links:
Instagram - / classicminidiy59
Facebook - / classicminidiy Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
When I worked on mini 's as a young man we took the starter motor off but didn't remove the slave cylinder when we did clutches on mini's. The usual reason to do this was the clutch primary gear seal leaking so the seal removal tool was required and seal guide tool. To lock the flywheel was locked by laying a spanner through the starter hole and jammed into the starter ring teeth . Most mini's had the difficult bolt missing on the cover. We never removed the straps from the flywheel unless we had to replace the flywheel.
Been fun watching these jobs again ☺☺☺
was changing a mini clutch 40 years ago without removing engine, hardest part was getting the bolt back on the mounting ,use to weld the nut on the mounting
I am amazed.You mentioned MED engineering. Its in my town and they built a lovely 1293 engine for me..quality. Well done chap.
Nicely done. Many Thanks!!
Well done mate thanks from Australia 🇦🇺👍🏁
Keep it coming mate from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺great job . 👏👏👏💓
Really helpful mate! Thank you!
Always enjoy your vids, best tutorials I've found online ;-) Thanks Cole.
Thank you! 🙂
very well done.
A clear explanation. You deserve a beer now.
Well, I've just tried this and it worked. Bent spanner (wrench) did the trick on the bottom bolt. Had to hit it with a hammer using a long bar down the back of the engine, but once it cracked off it was all fine. Thanks for the video.
My first car was a Mini, early model, two tone green and rust, sliding windows, long gear lever, and being a 850 cc never went fast enough to cause me any problems.
I then got a 1275 GT , what a car , the acceleration for the time was amazing, but it ran out of stream on the motorway, it really needed a 5 speed gearbox, but at the time they didn’t exist.
I would love to get one today, but they have become really expensive.
About the sprung clutch disc... it's not just for a softer engagement of the disc, the clutch itself is already doing that job quite good (when used properly). it's for canceling out minor engine vibrations in rotation. That's why the spring load goes both ways.
Great video. I am about to do a clutch on an early mini. This was very helpful. If it goes smoothly I’ll be sending you more compliments. If it’s tough, I’ll be back to yell at you 😁🤟🏼
I take it since theres no update for two weeks things went well? :-)
Ja gern, bin aber auch gerade am Aufbauen, du bist sehr sachlich und genau! Mein Englisch ist nicht so perfekt aber ich verstehe Dich recht gut!
Mini Grüße aus Deutschland
Vielen Dank! Ich gebe mein Bestes, um klar zu sein, wenn ich spreche, weil ich viele Leute auf der ganzen Welt kenne, die Minis besitzen. Ich bin froh, dass Sie es hilfreich finden.
Brilliant video! thanks- worried about your flip flops though ouch!
Too bad I did not see you in Paris to thank you in person, because once again, your video is spot on and that removes a big headache on my side as I won’t need to figure this part out myself in a few weeks! Thanks Cole!
Hey have you done a video covering the replacement of the primary oil seal?
Small tip, best way to lock the flywheel for bolt removal is to place an old main bearing in the ring gear teeth, soft metal so won’t damage anything.
Great vid by the way.
That BMC gearbox-in-sump design had its issues, but difficulty in changing the clutch isn't one of them. The main problem with the Mini is lack of space.
I've put ring gears on flywheels, and my technique is to put the flywheel in the freezer overnight and put the new ring gear in the oven at the highest temperature it will reach and then it drops right on using some oven gloves. Just make you you do it quickly and put it on straight, as there isn't a second chance. The factory will almost certainly have put the ring gear on using a high pressure hydraulic press.
To remove the old ring gear use a cutting disk between the teeth as deep as you dare and then use a cold chisel to bust it open.
You do not need a flywheel puller.No 1 pot at TDC firing stroke. Piece of wood long enough to go through starter hole and give it a good belt.The flywheel will normaly pop off.
Thanks 👍
Thank you for the video, very informative, I have an early car (50s) and just wondering if I can get away with just replacing the plate or need the full clutch kit as I cant help noticing most kits include the cover and release bearing
Gday Cole, always love your videos... In this video you explain how to repair the clutch without removing the engine... going to the other side of the engine is it possible to replace the timing chain and gears without removing the engine as well?
Also what is the brand of the electric ratchet you use?
I really like your shop space. It looks super efficient. I hope to have something similar one day.
Thanks it’s nothing wild and crazy. Just a smalll room and a carport space.
Verto has a lighter weight steel flywheel which im told you have to get balanced everytime you switch the clutch ??? Do you have any info on this ?
Nice video as always
I did this job dozens of times when I was a mechanic in the sixties and seventies and always took the starter motor out, it's easy so why not.
harrygatto So did I ,easy job
harrygatto Me 2. Ex Leyland mechanic,Plus I used to detach the engine tie bar ,made it a bit easier lol
@@tiplady44 Yes, always.
the flywheel on a more race oriented car, can often seize the crank pretty hard and you may need hammering an heat to get it to release.
Grüße aus Deutschland , cooler Typ!
Würde ich gern mal kennenlernen!
Hallo! Danke für die netten Worte. Vielleicht, wenn wir einmal nach Deutschland kommen, könntest du mir dein Auto zeigen! :-)
Great video, and supreme channel 👍👍, question could you replace the primary gear seal in at the same time.
Thanks
Thank you!! Yes you absolutely can change that seal at the same time. In fact its the best time to do it. There is a special tool to install the seal that I would absolutely pick up from a mini parts supplier as it makes the seal go on much better.
Hello again. The bent wrench / spanner didn't work (other than to de-skin my knuckles) so I made a hole in the subframe and went in from there. The wok is now off. Another question, sorry. When you took the flywheel and clutch off with the puller, did you first put the engine into TDC? I've bought a puller and instruction step 1 says to do that. Just wondering if it's essential.
I am struggling to take the clutch out it seems like it’s welded on there any tips?? And what size are the puller bolts? I have the verto type clutch
I have a verto clutch. Gear shifting just got really difficult all of a sudden and feels like the gear will not fully disengage even when I have the clutch pressed all the way in. Trying to decide if this is a clutch or a gearbox issue. Any tips?
How did you center the grey exterior plate and the backplate mounting it that way? The steel straps allow for adjustment in centering? I have seen a video from MED I think about this topic and they had to center those parts.
Great vid, If I have a verto type that wont go into gear when running, but can be bump started in gear (then wont disengage). Is this the clutch or the master cylinder do you think.
Great vid.....didnt we meet up at Charlotte cars and coffee at windstream I had the 85 rhd gray with racing gumballs
Living breathing Haynes manual
I am sure these videos will help mini owners for years to come.
Will you be doing another send in your mini episode
Thanks for the kind words. Im not perfect but I do my best to convey accurate information. Another send?
@@classicminidiy i didn't explain my self well ahahah where viewers send pictures or short videos of there project or restored mini and get featured on your channel it's great to see what other people are doing.
Hello. Excellent as always. This was from a few years ago now, but I'm working on the same / similar job now in 2021. How do you actually, physically get the lower wok bolts out / off? Even from under the car, the front subframe seems to be completely in the way of the bottom 2. Lying on my back, shivering in hail and snow yesterday made me question some of my life decisions!
Hey, Elwyn glad you enjoyed the video and I know exactly how you feel outside in the cold cursing and wondering why the hell I own the is car hahaha. My tip is to get a wrench that you don't care about and stick it in the bench vice and put a pretty aggressive (45 degrees or so) bend in it. This will let you get to the bolts back there a bit easier. Don't get me wrong as it will still be awkward and difficult but it will make it possible. Hope that helps!
@@classicminidiy Thanks, I'll try that. I'll probably get a sacrificial wrench / spanner off ebay before I apply my Uri Geller bending skills.
Can I change the primary gear bush when removing the clutch and flywheel as shown in the video?
Im interested in the same thing.
To get at the engine mount, you send your 10-13 year old child with their tiny hands :)
Works for getting at the radiator bolts too.
Ahh fun times.
Where were you experiencing slippage? I have a 1975 1275 GT and am noticing slip in 3rd and 4th gear. The engine spools up to red line and the car does not accelerate comparatively. 1st and 2nd are fine. Also, GREAT video. Am very glad to have found a comprehensive video for this job!
Thanks for the kind words! I was experiencing slipping in just about every gear actually. The power was just slipping right through the clutch. Interesting that its only in the top gears for you.
Chase Harnett, im looking at buying a 1976 1275 GT in a couple of weeks , any week points you think i should be looking for before my purchase ?
@@classicminidiy could be that at lower gears you don’t press on the pedal too hard to start moving the vehicle and in higher gears you normally press harder to gain speed, which it means more torque, torque is what makes your worn clutch slip. When you’re carrying heavy loads or climbing a hill and you noticed slipping, you would easy off the pedal or downshift to use less torque to avoid burning your clutch
Just for info... how do you know if the clutch pressure plate and the flywheel are balanced ? as i can see there are no marks that can indicate how the pressure plate has to be attached to flywheel. Flywheel and pressure plate are bolted by 3 screws so there are 3 possible combinations ( you can rotate the pressure plate in 3 different position ). Anyone may help me understanding ? thank's a lot :)
You forgot to mention the 1/4 timing mark and turning the flywheel so that the C washer doesn't jam behind it.
You can put that BOLT in I have done it a lot of times hold it in with a pair of long par of players & a long open end . And a new bolt & bit of lubricant.
You are using a hose to go straight from the master clutch cylinder to the slave. What are the end connectors/specs of this hose so that I may also get one? My short hose is leaking and a pain to get to.
Hey this is the one I used from Seven Mini:
www.7ent.com/products/clutch-hose-stainless-braided-rhd-c-ajj4025comp.html?af=cmdiy1959
It's worthwhile to mention that if you have the flexible line for the slave cylinder and you don't disconnect any of the hydraulic lines then there's an easy chance of the slave cylinder internals falling out with even a slight amount of force applied to the clutch pedal after you've moved the slave away from the rest of the clutch.
Those internals shouldn’t fall out unless you don’t have have lock snap ring in the slave cylinder. Which is possible if it wasn’t repaired properly in the past. That snap ring will retain all the internals if it’s present.
@@classicminidiy Mine was replaced entirely with a unit from minisport. One would hope it was put together properly, that said, I did have the entire unit spontaneously disassemble itself as I described. Off the top of my head I seem to recall there are units which have the locking circlip and those without.
@@AaronFrance The reason the snap ring gets removed is that it allows more slave cylinder piston stroke when the ball on the clutch lever wears out. It’s a slightly more elegant fix than putting a bend in the lever arm
Do you have a video on how to bleed the clutch?
Nope but I will I’m about 1 week. 😁
The original coil spring clutch? My Mini has one.
Hello. In a pre-verto clucth while putting it together, the mechanic by mistake, i guess, didn't put the (6) straps that go next to the diafragma. Does it make a difference? What harm could cause? Should we take the diafragma out and put the straps? Thank you. Hope you can help me.
Hey Ms. DACCS, I am actually surprised the clutch is performing at all without the straps. Unfortunately they are definitely required I would take the cover back off and put the straps on. Without them it likely will cause damage to the clutch mechanism or flywheel.
@@classicminidiy Thank you for your answer. But no, the engine isn't yet on the car. The engine is still outside, we noticed it in time, i guess. We will do that.
So glad to hear that. Glad you caught it too!
Nice t-shirt
Thanks ZA minis represent(like I live in South Africa with a South African mini. 😂)
I'm upto the flywheel pulling stage and it is an absolute mission, cannot get the bolt to turn in because it's so hard to turn and it still hasn't popped off
Hi, do you have a link for that braided flexi hose you have to the clutch cylinder?
Hey! Yes I produce and sell them myself. Link below
store.classicminidiy.com/collections/brake-and-clutch-lines/products/brake-and-clutch-hose-conversion-kit
you shoudl change all the seals since you've taken out the clutch too. helps keep the mini leak free.
Not a bad idea. I just rebuilt the motor so the seals are brand new but if the clutch is out doing the rear main seal is a great idea
@@classicminidiy do you mean the crank seals ?
I have a pre verto clutch i think because it looks same as in your car but my problem is, the clutch is noisy and when you press the clutch in full is much more quiter. It is only noisy when you release the clutch full. any ideas why. sorry i'm suck at this how clutch system works. I've a 1973 Austin Mini Clubman
Thanks ☺
Probably just the release bearing.
So where is your brake servo etc?
Not all cars had brake servos. Some early cooper S minis had factory servos, and then later cars came with the servo combined with the master cylinder. My car being a mk1 non-S never had a factory servo. Just a simple single line brake and clutch system.
Can you do a video on replacement of the primary gear seal
I have covered it in my various engine build videos. I hopefully will not have to do an in car episode anytime soon.... hahaha
Slight off topic. But can you take off the primary gear and replace with another with the engine in situ and just taking off the wok?
Unfortunately you can't. The drop gear housing itself doesn't have a large enough hole for it to come out. So the whole drop gear housing has to come off as well. Additionally you wouldn't be able to set the end float of the new gear correctly in situ. :-(
@@classicminidiy thanks for your reply
Hi.there.i think you missed out a very important part of removing flywheel.that was make sure engine is at top dead centre.that saves the u shaped washer that holds the gear in place.so people take note.thanks kevin
Yes I know! I mistakenly edited it out back when I made this video. I appreciate the comment though!
Great video, however, Mini's have engines not motors, the motor(s) run the heating fan and windscreen wipers.
True. I even went through diesel mechanics classes and learned that. Old habits die hard.
A mini is British and in Europe we call it a motor, so that's correct for the whole world, except the US.
Also in the US you call petrol gas.
A boot a trunk.
Bonnet a hood.
And technically a shock absorber is the spring which motion is controlled by the shock damper.
And actually, the shock damper isn't even hydraulically in the literal sense, since hydra (or hydōr in greek) is actually water.
As in hydrogen, which literally means: a piece that makes water.
Even Google is called a search engine these days. Nothing to do with Setting in motion, which, by the way, is the literal meaning of the word motor in Latin.
But, it all really doesn't matter, it's all good, as long as we can all understand each other.
You did and I did, the rest is all semantics and connotation.
🙂
I’m glad you put engine in the title 😂😂😂😂
Sorry
Oh you thought I might call it.....motor? :-D
1 there is no need to remove the slave cylinder, yes remove the spring
2 the key way only goes on 1 way
3 I would use 242 Loctite on all locating bolts
4 why didn’t you check the rear main seal
5 when putting the the flywheel and clutch in why don’t you put the bolts loosely in the flywheel and pressure plate to locate the towers on the pressure plate
And the springs in the drive plate are the to absorb torsional vibration
1. Removing it provides you more room but you’re right it isn’t required
2. It can be forced on the wrong way so it’s worth mentioning.
3. Agreed
4. Rear main seal didn’t need verifying as it was already replaced recently
5. No reason just the way I normally do it is in the video. 👍🏼
Hi got a 1969 mini when clutch is pressed it slows engine can't start engine with foot on clutch had engine rebuild any ideas thank u
Hi! Sounds like the thrust washers are a bit too tight on the crank. I talk about it in detail in another video I will link at the bottom of this text, however you should not be starting your engine with the clutch depressed. It puts undue side load on the crank which can wear down those thrust washers prematurely over time.
czcams.com/video/mx8HksuAw48/video.html
@@classicminidiy it nearly stops engine when running spoke to bloke that built it and said all in new not got any end float well tiny bit I just can't work it out
@@joncouzens7361 If there is no end float then it was not assembled correctly and will not operate correctly. The endfloat on the thrust washers needs to be between 5 and 6thou. Unfortunatly if it was assembled with zero endfloat on the thrusts then the engine likely needs to come back out and be speced with more float.
@@classicminidiy OK thank u good thing is its on the bench what is the tool called u use to messure it in your video will give it a go and get back to u much appreciated your help from Kent in the uk 👍
@@joncouzens7361 The gauge I use is called a "Dial indicator gauge" but you also can use standard feeler gauges to measure the spec. I put a link to the dial indicator tool I used in the other video below. Good luck!
amzn.to/3qBX6W7
To replace the clutch without removing the motor:
1st. Find front right wheel house.
2nd. Grab a tin shears ...
didn't look that bad. beats the old days of my friend dropping a rabbit 4 speed on my chest while laying on a creeper. I would get a push under and bench press the trans up an into place .lol I just bought a 94 Rover mini 'British Open" edition
Clutch shudder, can't seem to get rid of it. Everything is new. Clutch disc is not contaminated by any oil. Which was our first thought.
Just watched your video thinking we might have missed something but it's exactly what we did.
If everything is the same as the video I would bleed your clutch lines. Make sure there is no air in the system. Also was your throw out bearing in good shape when it was pet back in?
Some of the old clutch systems had 3xA stamped on the fly wheel and clutch parts! Is yours this system if so have you lined them up !? That used to cause shudder if not lined up!? Also make sure it’s on tdc or turn it 1/4 of a turn in case someone has fitted the c washer upside down !
( ps please put some steel toe cap boots on!)
Eh, according to my information the pressure-plate and the backplate have an "A" marked on them (look at : czcams.com/video/yatRVaV5Pzo/video.html the hole at 10 o'clock clearly show an "A") and they should be alligned, you do not mention this and therefor you have an 1/3 chance that you got it right.
If you did not get it right I guess you get some nasty vibrations in your clutch set-up
My mini cheicks the engine on pull of your kod be the cluch
no chance of doing this with my JDM mini, packed full of aircon ECU's and loads of other gubbins.
It’s just a longer process. Pulling the engine to do it would be even more work then taking out the stuff covering the clutch. 🙂
would have pissed myself if the C washer had slipped. have you read a manual? might be good so you dont miss out important info.
oh and the overthrow nut you dont wind it out you wind it in one flat.
Thanks for the feedback. I took that line right out of the 1959 Haynes manual for the overthrow nuts but it looks like I made a mistake when I said it. I do my best to provide the best information I can but we are all human. :-)
go on read it again. i would post a photo of the words but " Screw up the stop a further 1 flat of the lock nut" page 108
the whole idea is to take the load off the thrust bearings not allow you to overload them leading to early failure.
oh if you get hold of the original deal manuals you will see the advice about the C washer, it is also in all later haynes manual (not in the 59 as they had not thought about people not fitting it according to the factory methods.
Leave bottom bolt off
👍🏼🙂
@@classicminidiy nah, weld nuts onto the mount to save your sanity
best way to change a clutch in a mini cooper is throw the whole car in the trash and get ones that isnt crap
😂
Coke can you let me know the Borg and beck part number on that kit I work at a car parts Suplier in the uk but we don’t lite one so I’d like to cross reference the part and find one
This is the job from hell...No one has mentioned the A stamped on the clutch must be at the top, or the C washer will lock the flywheel on...! If the flywheel wont budge...a steel bar through the starter motor hole onto the back of the flywheel and a club hammer and heat will get it off...mine took 2 days of battering...dont miss with the hammer, the alloy casing is very brittle!!!