CMDIY - Pre-Verto Clutch Release Bearing Replacement
Vložit
- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- Proundly sponsored by 7ent.com
This is a video outlining the process of removing your old clutch release bearing and replacing it with a new one.
Pre-verto Release Bearing: www.7ENT.com/products/clutch-r...
Verto Release Bearing: www.7ENT.com/products/clutch-r...
Pre-verto Clutch Plunger: www.7ENT.com/products/clutch-r...
Verto Clutch Plunger: www.7ENT.com/products/plunger-...
Clutch Arm: www.7ENT.com/products/clutch-r... Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for putting this video up bro! It'll help me out massively when I do the job. Cheers!
Thank you for the videos! They are EXTREMELY helpful
Thank you. Happy they are helping. :-)
Thanks so much for this guide, and all your other ones. Really helps me get to grips with my mini as a novice DIY mechanic. :-)
- Hello from New Zealand -
So happy to help out! What's it like in NZ right now? Is it summer time?
We've just hit the first month of winter, so pretty wet right now. Perfect weather to fiddle around in the garage with the venerable flying brick.
I hear that. Our winters are super wet as well, come to think of it so are our summers....
thank you, thank you, thank you, for light up me, now i understand how it works and how to remove, greettings from Mexico City
I am so happy you found it helpful. Cool to talk to people from all over the world. :-)
Great video! My slave cylinder piston pushed out of the slave cylinder. I replaced the slave cylinder, thinking that was the problem, and the same thing happened. Before I tear into it, do you have any idea what could have failed?
You should do a vid on mixture adjustment and ignition timing
safety tip, always disconnect the battery when doing anything with the starter. Great video
Very good tip thanks for sharing!
@@classicminidiy It was mentioned...unless he edited after your comment.
Thanks, doesn’t look too complicated (I’m saying that now haha) Need to do this job on my Austin Allegro, a 1275 a series
Thanks Cole great help.
Happy to help!
Great video! My slave cylinder piston pushed completely out of the slave cylinder. I put a new cylinder on and the same thing happened. Before I tear into it, do you have any idea what could have failed? Thanks.
martin boise don't forget the circlip that retains it.
Would it be required to readjust your clutch throw at this point since you moved both bolts near the bottom of the arm?
I think it just needs 5mm clearance right?
You need to get someone to depress the clutch pedal fully and then screw the nut up finger tight. Release the clutch pedal and screw the nut up one flat. Add the lock nut. This will prevent you overloading the crank thrust bearings. Check the workshop manual for this procedure.
Hello iam looking for some advice my Austin allegro 3 1275cc won't go into gear when engine is running but it goes into gear when engine is off any idea please
Thanks for posting this video. It was really informative, but I still failed to remove the rear two bolts :( I think I might need some more assistance getting those two bolts out.
Those bolts are a serious PIA. You could try getting a "trash" wrench and bending it some to fit up in there. It really is about finding juuussst the right angle to get in there even if you are turning it a fraction of a turn each time.
Thanks for the advice. Last night I asked a friend to come over and assist. One of us held the spanner on the bolt with a couple of fingers while the other rotated the spanner. (I was fortunate that he has a set of ratcheting spanners. I really need to get a set of them.) Turns out the bolts had been massively over tightened by the previous owner, which was what made it so much more difficult to remove.
Hi, Great Video.. Can you help me as I have a mini moke and the clutch plunger is seized, Ive tried a high quality penetrating oil but no joy...can it be heated up to release.
Which plunger exactly? The one on the slave cylinder? If so I would remove the slave completely, remove the rubber boot around the end of it, and slam it down face first on your work table to dislodge it. I strongly recommend getting a rebuild kit for the cylinder to replace the seal on the internal piston. You will also need to bleed your clutch system after putting the slave back on.
www.7ent.com carries a rebuild kit for the slave for only about 10 bucks.
Hi Its the plunger to the clutch /Gearbox as seen on your great video titled CMDIY - Pre-Verto Clutch Release Bearing Replacement, and thanks for your time ...Much appreciated
That plunger wont move at all? Is the "wok" still on the gearbox or have you taken it off? When I say wok I am referring to this goo.gl/e24Jcw.
That plunger should move very freely in the face of that wok. If you haven't removed it yet follow the steps on that same video to remove it and get it on a workbench. Email me at minis@ccmu.us and we can get more in depth with the diagnosis.
Do you hear this bearing when you relaese the clutch. And when you press the clutch you dont hear this bearing? i have the same problem.
Yes that is pretty much exactly what I experienced before I had to replace the one on my car. :-)
Is that when you release the clutch in neutral u hear the nosiy bearing.
Thanks 4 the vid.
Also you get way more travel from your slave. I'm thinking mine needs a new rubber how and possible a replacement or rebuilt.
What's the lash spec for the bearing plunger before you tighten the jam nut? You didn't mention it in the vid. Cheers, mate.
I'm not sure off the top of my head. I would need to check my haynes manual when I get home. My small head can only remember so many numbers. :-)
Np. As a suggestion, try to include those numbers and a brief shot of where you're actually measuring (and the torque for those bolts where using a torque wrench is important), so those following the video don't screw up if they just follow what they see on the screen. On the other hand, great job - I always hated doing anything with the clutch. What were they thinking with those bloody housing bolts at the back... *smh*
My arm is stuck in the same position as when the clutch pedal is pressed in. What would cause that?
Possibly air in the lines. Have you bled your slave cylinder lately?
Classic Mini DIY No, I replaced the master and the slave and the line between them but haven't bleed the system yet.
That’s 💯 the reason why. Need fluid and to bleed the line.
Classic Mini DIY I'll give that a go, Thanks!
Do you really need to remove the starter???
To get the cover off I find it is MUCH easier if the starter is removed. I am sure you can get it off without taking the starter off but its two bolts so it really is a no brainer for me.
As a proud owner of a 1959 850 Mini i thought that i could replace my thrust bearing for my coupling myself. Having seen a video of CMDIY - Pre-Verto Clutch Release Bearing Replacement (CMDIY stands for classic mini do it yourself) (here is the link to the video czcams.com/video/GFQVFeiHwhM/video.html ) it looked easy enough. Well it took me 11 days. I will tell you why. It is an original car, with the original paint on the outside and the engine was resprayed. So things are old, somewhat rusty and are also sticking because of the respray of the engine. I also found that the motor mount bolts were a set of bolts and nuts. No welded nuts as in the video.
Detach the grill parts.
Next remove the air hose from the front holder. Leave the back in place. Do not take it out.
Next release the engine mount on the right side of the engine. In the above picture the left side.
Next release the dog bone engine mount. Englisch measurement 9/16.
Then i tried to release the spring loaded arm between the hydraulic cylinder and the release shaft. No way the pin wanted to come loose or out. So it stayed in.
Next i released the remote starter solenoid. Small bolt and screws. Metric fits.
Next i released the starter motor. 9/16 inch.
Next i released the bolts of the cover of the coupling. 1/2 inch. This is almost the the same as 13.
One inch / 2 or 25.4 / 2 is 12.7 mm. The lower ones are hard to reach. So i bought a set of spanners from HBM www.hbm-machines.com/ HBM 6 Delige Ring , Ratel , Steeksleutelset met Kantelbare Kop
It took two days to arrive. This helped me to reach the hard to reach lower/aft bolts.
The cover of the coupling was loose now.
Now i could reach the retaining spring. The shaft could only be hammered out with a punch. The nuts on the end of the shaft were loosened, after measuring and writing down the position on the shaft. The bearing could also be hammered out with a punch, using the cover of the coupling as an anvil. A new bearing was placed and the nuts were placed back. The spring loaded arm was not placed back.
Next the bolts for the cover of the coupling were replaced. Well, not all of them. The ones in the lower / aft side i left out.
Next the spring loaded arm was put back in its position with hammering in the shaft. The ring and a new retaining spring were placed.
Next the starter motor was placed back.
Next the remote starter solenoid was placed back.
Next the engine mount was placed back. To replace the aft engine mount bolt i used a long hex key and a small magnet.
Next the dog bone engine mount was placed back. Put a crowbar between your engine block and the exhaust manifold to wiggle the motor and align the bolt holes for the dog bone engine mount.
Next the grill parts were placed back.
I used two sets of these gloves.
They are sweaty, but keep your hands clean.
Would i recommend to anyone doing this?
No. Remove the engine and you can reach the coupling cover much easier.
great video..i was hoping i could replace the plunger without taking the clutch housing off... obviously can't watching this video 😥
Unfortunately nope. It's challenging but not the worst job.
Classic Mini DIY Cheers man i did it the other day...the video made it easier
07:38 Der war gut 🤣
Ich wollte sicherstellen, dass Sie aufpassen. Haha