Classic Mini DIY - Tuning Your Mini's Carb
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2016
- #classicmini #hif44 #carb
How to Tune your Mini's carburetor. One of the most common jobs performed on a classic mini. This video shows you exactly how to tune an HIF44 SU carb. Including the air fuel mixture, idle, and needle.
Carb in video - www.7ent.com/products/hif6-hif...
Carb rebuild kit: www.7ent.com/products/carb-re...
KN Hif44 filter: www.7ent.com/products/air-fil...
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Facebook - / classicminidiy Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks for this - My 1980 failed the MOT on emissions and your video was spot on
Wow! How have I not found you before now!? Great help for someone like me just starting out and wanting the basics
Nice job explaining the setup of an HIF 44. You made me go check my plugs, which are golden brown!
Thanks! Yeah nothing wrong with with a good check every so often. :-)
great brief introduction concise and good information
Thank you!!! keep up the good work! your videos are EXCELLENT.
Great explanation. I'm learning how to work on my Mini :)
Thank you!
excellent. concisely and well explained.
Best reliable channel
Love your channel. Just bought a Mini and I'm still learning, so your channel is extremely helpful. I was wondering if you'll ever be adding how to tune a twin carb. Keep up the great work!
I probably will be doing a video on that in the future. Not sure when though. I might plop the dual carbs back on to do a tuning video. We shall see. :-)
Thanks! Will play with mine now.
Thank you! Very useful.
You just got yourself a new subscriber
Thanks a ton! This really helped
Very good easy too follow well explained audio good thanks😊
So helpful this thanks so much!!!
That video was very helpful 👏 👌. Thanks
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thx from Italy!
You're welcome!
Ive been meaning to find out about tweeking these SU's.. thanks for posting.. my mini is just running a tad too rich.. quarter turn left now its time for a test run.. :)
Thanks for that info. I have a 1981 Allegro with the 1275 A Plus engine developed for the Metro, and it has been idling too fast, at about 1200rpm when warm, about 1000rpm when cold. Also the engine would run on after being switched off (pre ignition?). The plugs were sooty and as the head gasket was leaking last year I asked the local garage to change the head gasket for me. This is a job I would normally undertake myself but I had been told it's likely the head will be warped and need skimming, and I'll also need to replace all the nuts and studs. The head did need skimming, and new hardened valve seats were sourced from Germany. So, a great deal of time and expense later the car was returned to me with a newly skimmed head and new head gasket, and all new nuts and studs. Now it doesn't seem to suffer from pre ignition but that may just be because the carbon deposits were cleaned off the valves when the head was skimmed, and is likely to return when the carbon has built up again. Although the tickover is still too fast. Therefore, based on this video, I am assuming my mixture screw needs unwinding until my revs drop to about 800? Hopefully that will solve the issue.
Thanks,
Martin
Brilliant video. J
Very good job!
Another hit. Nice ☝️
thank you bro you helped me a lot with information
Glad I could help!
On my old Mini, I remember a little peg under the carb that allowed you to nudge up the piston while the engine was running. If the engine started 'hunting' it was too rich, if it stalled, it was too lean. Or something like that - maybe the other way round. Very useful.
That's true on the 1.25 and 1.5 inch old carbs, but the HIF44 carb doesn't have the "piston lifting pin" anymore.
Too bad really as that is how I used to set a baseline, too. Then drive around and check plugs (and grey exhaust when we still had leaded fuel).
There used to be a gizmo you could get called Gunson's Colourtune which was like a glass sparkplug that let you see the colour of the flame in the cylinder... Crikey - turns out it's still a thing!
@@markhodgson7241 yeah we had that too, but the trouble was, it was expensive and it broke. So... bakc to the old ways. When we tested it on a rolling road couldn;t get much better. 130HP at the wheels....
Perfect!
Very nice exlanation of the parts. But please remember to tune the carb when the motor is on working temperature. this is the "common" status of the engine. A lot of ppl who have cold start issuse begin to turn some screws, but wonder after a short ride that the car is stalling, or have other problems wenn its warm.
Nice job, thanks for answering my last comment. I do struggle to make the Mini running right. I try again and again to adjust the carburador but its never right. When I accelerate the car has some trouble, its not accelrating well. So i start to wonder if the ignition is right ? Any idea ? Another point when I have the shock on the car runs well...
You've missed some real fundamentals here - the oil level in the dashpot should be checked (especially after a carb rebuild), and the engine speed will change as the mixture is adjusted. There is a 'sweet spot' for this, which can be heard as the mixture is adjusted. On earlier SU's there was a piston lifter that had to be lifted gently to listen for an increase/decrease in idle speed (and I believe at least some of the HIFs had this) in order to make a reasonably accurate base mixture setting. There is no particular reason to talk about jet/needle sizes unless the engine has been altered in some way, and much more important is to consider wear on the needle - easily seen with a visual inspection - as no amount of fettling will fix a worn needle.
very useful thank you
Glad to help out!
DUDE THANK YOU! your video helped me so fucking much, I owe you a pint if you ever come to the UK!
Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Great video and all makes great sense, now in your video 5:05 to 6:23 in the middle is that tension spring for the throttle lever, the tension is way over for for what it is as the other spring the return spring that goes on the return spring lever does this on it`s own, now is there a lighter / less tension spring for the accelerator lever?
My 91 Rover has several vacuum lines coming off of my hif44. Where are they supposed to go?
Nice video. Great job, but I think you forgot one important thing... the float level. If the fuel level is wrong, as well as the fuel needle you never achieve a good carb tuning. I'm also familiar with the HS4 carb, where you can check the tuning through a small displacement of the piston. In the HS4 carb you have a small pin that lifts the piston. In the idle you lift the piston 1/2mm... the car should increase the idle a little bit. If the car turn off is to weak, whereas if the idle increase too much is to reach...
Keep going with this great videos!
Romeu Matos
Float level on an SU isnt all that critical really. It has to be really wrong before it impacts anything. The adjustment is very simple and doesnt usually needs to be messed with much.
The adjustment is very simple, but it is also very simple to have a bad adjustment and you think about everything but the float level. I also think the SU original float needle is not the best solution. Actually, I usually rebuild SU carburateurs with a upgraded needle and it is noticeable the difference between both, the idle is much more consistent and particularly the first 10% of throttle is also much more consistent.
But it is just my opinion. I know the float level is perhaps more important in others carb, but I think it is also important in the SU carbs.
Awesome video. You are the best, man. I have a hif44 and based on your video I will need to adjust the air and fuel mixture to make it leaner. After the adjustment do I just let the car run in place and check the plug again? If so, for how long? Also should I check every plug, or just one should determine the mixture? Would this help with the horrible exhaust fumes? When I start the car the exhaust fumes are overwhelming.
Which gasket should you use to fix the hif44 to a k&n filter set up
Hi! I'm following your videos to tune up my Mini when it's finally restored. I know this video is old, but don't know where to ask :) By now, I have an HS4 carb with waxstat jet type, and I've read that it gives problems when the engine gets too hot and sugests to convert to pre-waxstat jet, despite the fuel economy and emissions advantage of them. If I install a proper cooling system for the engine, do I need to convert it anyway? BTW, I'm thinking to get a HIF44 in the future, but for now I have to keep this one :( . Thanks in advantage.
My mini engine f77 is run out or dieseling, i am using hif44..could you advice how i can resolve this problem
Hello, I wanted to know the difference between bringing a red spring to the standard with its specific needle
Real nice video! Can you please show how to tune the carbs with air conditioners installed, just like the ones in Japanese models.. Thank you!
I would be happy to do that if I had a mini with AC. :-( Wanna come visit Charlotte?
Hi, can you answer a question for me please. 1996 Mini Sprite with carburettor and manual choke is idling too fast. Is it simply a case of adjusting the idle adjustment? It was fine but on a run a while back it lost power twice, after revving it hard a couple of times it ran fine but the idle is now too fast. I don’t know if these things are connected. Thank you.
Hi Cole. I have a 1275 bored to 1310 running hif44. I tried what you described in this video. Problen I have is that I either get black sud or blne white. The is no in between. Another thing is that when I go from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd, i get a lop in the carb and the car hesitated with the pop and then speeds up. Any idea what could be the cause for these issues?
Hey mate truly enjoy ur video
Got a problem with mine after i start the car it would n t rev more then 3000 rpm and it also starts coughing from the carb
Maybe you can help ???? Thanks
The adjustment you are doing moving the jet is only altering the mixture at idle and really has little to do with general air/fuel ratio the rest of the time. The air fuel ratio is determined by the taper of the needle, and the amount that the needle (or really the piston that it is attached to) is raised by the manifold vacum when you open the throttle.
There is very little tuning as such for the home mechanic to do on an SU, just idle mixture, idle speed and fast idle speed when the choke is operating.
Hey great videos, your mini runs beautifully!
May I ask for any tips for getting my triumph spitfire running as beautifully. It starts regularly but normally on the second or third turn of the key, I tend to have to hold the throttle for a short while before I can let it idle itself.
My spark plugs are black which I guess is too rich, however it hesitates on acceleration and then the idle can completely drop off stumble and even cut out.
I noticed yesterday the throttle throats and pistons were pretty filthy, but surely all this is due to more than just a dirty piston? Someone suggested new jets and needle for the carbs, but I wanted a opinion before buying potentially unnecessary parts. Cheers!
So I would recomend that you make sure you have a thimble full of oil in the top of the cab. If that is dry, that will make a huge difference. Also, sounds to be running very rich, also, you may have an improperly adjusted choke. Do you have a manual choke, if so, that is an easy manual adjustment, if its electric, it may just need dialed back so that it cuts out on time. Might could also be an ignition issue. Are you plugs, wires cap and rotor all new? Is the motor timing dialed in? that will also cause engine fowling.
Hello, I have a 1992 mini rover, my mini seems to only start when i put the accelerator down so im unsure of the problem any advice or help would be very heplful,
Hi, great job with your channel! I am a begginer in mechanics, and i am carefully looking all of your videos about minis ;-)I have a question about this one: where did you find the perfect schematic at 4min, explaining the carburetor concept? Thanks!
I found it on google, to be honest. However, check out this book it's my favorite when it comes to the SU carbs.
amzn.to/2wwBMF9
Ty
yw
Not forgetting, of course, the golden rule of carburettor tuning: carry out a full engine tune FIRST, plugs, points, ignition timing, air filter and valve clearances THEN tune the carb(s).
A little pro tip from a mechanic.. install a air/fuel sensor so you can fine tune it more precise next time.. it will make it a lot easier.. :)
Consider your protip implemented. I have since installed the air/fuel and you are right it was SUPER helpful
@@classicminidiy which sensor did you install?
Hi, wondered if you could help. You explained the standing idle adjuster. My mini has been idling around 1000-1100 when warm. Tried gradually adjusting this screw anti clockwise but it doesn't appear to have any affect?
Can you verify your throttle cable isnt getting stuck or the throttle lever isn't bottoming out on the carb body? If you can't get it to idle any lower and you checked the above items, it likely means your mixture is too lean or you have a vaccum leak somewhere between the carb and the cylinder head.
Would it be better to install an AFR gauge for more precise tuning?.
Thank you for the very well explained video.
Thanks for the kind words. An AFR is a great option as well if you dont mind welding in a bung in your exhaust. I installed one on my car and I am really happy with it. However, my guess was most folks probably won't be installing one, so I wanted to make sure people had some tips on how to tune the car without one too. :-)
@@classicminidiy What would be a good AF ratio? Is it car dependent? I've always heard 14.7 but not sure that applies to minis. TIA
@@emilegoguely4032 14.7 is the perfect Air to Fuel Ratio for any gasoline engine.
Thanks mate, great explanation! My 1000cc mini give a little lagging when I switch to a lower gear below 2000rpm. Any tip on why that happens? Thanks again!
Have you checked the timing at all? I would have a look at that first and then see if your mixture is still correct. If it isn’t or it’s only around that RPM range you may need to find a needle that better suits the engine spec.
@@classicminidiy Thanks for responding mate! I checked the carb and serviced all parts which gave a little kick back. However the reason for lagging had been the misfiring plugs. There were tons of carbon and oil in them. Replaced them with new ones along with a new set of wiring. Now she runs runs like a bullet.
i have a question .. does the hiff44 carb cools the engine ?
because iv ordered one ...
No, the carburetor doesn't play any role in cooling the motor. The hiff44 manifold does however have a coolant track built into it, that is there to actually warm the air going into the motor which keeps your carb from freezing in the winter.
What is the canister that is directly left of the valve cover, directly above the bell housing, with the black hose going to it called?
If I am right about what you are referring to, that's the crankcase breather. Allows compression gas that makes it into the crankcase to vent out into the atmosphere or in my case get sucked back up into the car and burned.
Hey there! Recently purchased a Mini as a first time buyer, everything is going great so far, however it struggles to crank over every time I start it for the first time after leaving it for a while? I've tried looking around at forums and most people say it's standard, however I have my doubts. Does yours or anyone else's Mini struggle to crank over? Could it be a starter issue?
Appreciate your help,
Regards,
Alfie
First thing I would check is the battery. Most commonly the issue is that the battery is old and lost its "CCA" which is Cold Cranking Amps. Basically this is the power needed to spin the starter over. The more CCA the battery has the less struggle it will have turning over the starter. If the battery is newer I would take a look at the starter motor itself and possibly replacing that.
Chris Fix on youtube has 2 awesome videos about this:
czcams.com/video/yC409CU7mU8/video.html
czcams.com/video/fRfPupikHT4/video.html
Have you tried gunsom colour tune.. works wonders on old motorcycles but I don't know if it's going to do well on classic minis..
Yup I love the ColourTune. I actually have another video going over it.
czcams.com/video/MJc3H6JxzbI/video.html
Cole, great video. When you adjust the fuel mixture screw, how many turns do you give it at a time? 1/4 of a turn? 1 turn? 5 turns? What’s considered a small adjustment vs a large one in the number of turns?
The best way to adjust it is one flat at a time. So one flat side of the adjustment nut at a time. A small adjustment is moving it one flat. :-)
Thanks, I was just about to ask this. So I guess 1/6th of a circle, or 60 degrees!
Love these videos, very helpful indeed.
Just wondered, you said in the video previous to this that you would explain the extra spring attached to the throttle actuator in this video, I couldn't find where you explained it, just wondered what it's purpose was?
Glad you are enjoying them! So I was having some problems with my throttle sticking right after adding the carb to my car. I was heading to a car show and didn't have a bunch of time to sit down and source the problem. The extra spring forced the throttle to return properly. Since that point I was able to source the problem as the throttle cable being too loose on both the bulkhead and the throttle bracket. After tightening the whole throttle cable mounting system the spring was removed.
Clever little trick that! Glad you got it sorted.
Keep up the good work
Not a bad idea to have two return springs anyway. You can buy them to fit inside one another so you arent dependent on just one thing to give you throttle return.
Great video man! Could you do a video on valve clearances?
Hey I actually did already. :-)
czcams.com/video/yI0R__ZwNbs/video.html
? I have. I was driving my 85 mini and it just died on my. It did not start at all, I drained the batt. when I got home I recharge the batt and it started with a lot of black smoke. I have no clue what's going on with my eng. Can someone help Thank you.
Many thanks for the vids, I find them really helpful. I had a question, is it possible to set a correct timing without using a stroboscope light? And doesn't finding the correct timing and carb tuning depends on the whole engine setup? Especially with old minis, they are all different.
It's possible definitely however it would all be by the sound of the motor and how it drives, which as you can imagine is much more challenging. Once the timing on the motor is correct for the most part the process used to tune the carb is the same. Where you end up in the tune varies for sure between cars however you ideally should be tuning your carb to run with a correctly timed motor.
This clarifies things! Thanks a lot
If you are talking about standard cars timing is timing. You can do basic good enough timing without a strobe by using a test lamp at the points to check the point at which they just open as the No1 piston reaches TDC. To do this you need to be able to identify TDC. This was the best available technology when many of these early cars were built.
Carbs tuning does indeed depend on overall set up. With relatively standard cars this was thought through at the factory, and with SUs you are really only "tuning" idle settings anyway
Great information. One question. Small trips around town, my plugs tend to go black, but a run out n the highway they tend to correct themselves. Am I imagining this? If this is the case, what am I dong wrong?
Nothing you are doing wrong necessarily. Often these carbs can be tuned properly for higher RPM's(more fire means less soot). Idling speeds can still be running too rich and produce the black plugs you are seeing. Unfortunately its not the easiest thing to get it perfect. :-)
Classic Mini DIY Thanks for the info.
What you are describing is probably close to normal operation. If you do lots of short runs the mixture will be rich while you are using the choke (try to push it back in as soon as possible as the engine warms). The only other thing you might look at is the idle mixture , which is what this video is about. That may be set rich as well and will encourage the black build up if your trips involve town driving and a bit of idling. A simple good enough adjustment can be done by altering the idle mixture until you get the fastest non faltering idle and then slow it down again with the idle speed screw.
Once you are out on the highway the mixture is set automatically by the taper of the needle in the jet and you are running at more a optimal air fuel ratio. A little bit of this will clean up the plugs and they will return to a nice brown until you start suburban trundling again.
Cars like a good run know and then. It is good for them in quite a few ways , this is just one. Just like humans they need to keep moving and get out and about to stay healthy.
yarpos Good information. Thanks
I have a 1990 Rover MINI i had shipped over here from England. It ran for a few weeks then stopped. Took apart carb a few times and finally just bought a rebuilt one. It started right up drove it around the block then brought home. Later that day tried to start it up and same thing, Wont start, seems like it wants to start, it almost turns over and sometimes it starts for about 10 seconds and then quits again. Any idea, getting frustrated. Also, new plugs were put in. Thanks
Have you tested the battery and alternator? Sometimes behavior like this can be indicative of a less than optimal voltage being delivered to the ignition coil.
New battery. I ordered new wires, ignition coil, points and distributer cap. I will let you know next week.
Good video , how did u get ur engine bay so organised ? :)
Very carefully! Jokes aside it’s after years of tinkering and cleanup. Running wires, then re-running them. Then ripping everything out and doing the same thing again.
hey bro i have a question .. while testing your fuel if it was rich or lean do u need to start the engine and drive it or just start it for couple of minits and then check the plugs ? i need it perfect what should i do ?
Best thing to do is to drive it between each test and I mean like head to the grocery store and back so you can get good representation of the RPM range of the car. Will help you get to know the fuel profile of your carbs and how it impacts the operation as well, when you drive it
Checking plugs gives you an indication of long term mixture control above idle, it isnt too much use for idle mixture which is whats being adjusted in this video. Just lift up the piston while idling (lifting pin on the carb or lever with a small screwdriver) if it falters richen it, if it speeds up and stays up lean it, if it speeds up and settles back leave it alone.
If you have issue with plug colour after a good run you need to look at replacing the needle rather than adjusting idle settings. If you really want it perfect take it to a place with a dyno, they can tell you pretty quick but you have to pay.
Where can I get or send the link for the firewall cover (black vinyl) behind the K&N cone filter. Thanks
Oh man I love that blanket. Seriously one of the best things I ever bought sound deadening wise.
www.7ent.com/products/soundproofing-pad-firewall-only-mk1-2-24a0280.html?af=cmdiy1959
The 7 ent link for the soundproof is for the entire firewall. I just need the round soundproof directly behind the K& N cone filter.
Ohhh that is a custom thing I made for the opening. I used something called Kydex, heated it up and shaped it around that opening and the new carb. I then glued on some foam window AC Unit insulation from the hardware store on the back.
Kydex: amzn.to/2DDeClH
would you be able to upload a video how to in stall the throttle cable from the pedal to twin su carbs ?
Not sure it's enough for a whole video or not. Are you running into an issue with it specifically? Maybe I can help.
basically i i get no tension in the pedal when i install the cable and tune the carbs but when i cable tie it the the chassis and make tension from the cable tie to the pedal but the other end has little tension but i dont know why
you might be able to tie in my request with a continuation of this as it is linked with setting up the cable to the carb
bom dia será que me pode dizer como afinar um duplo carburador mini 1000 cuper
hi i have a hs4 carb....
the carb is misbehaving and im thinking on switching it to a weber but want to try to fix the su before i spend any money.
oky so basicly what is happening is that if idle like is has a misfire but i took it to a mechanic and all is good.
when i get to hi rev's is pushes of the damper screw and then theres no hope!!
i have 2 carb head things so one i sticked with pratley and still it is misfiring and spitting.
do you have any advice for me i didnt have time yet to clean the carb and so on but will do this coming weekend.
thanks
Could you take a picture of what you're referring to? If I understand correctly it may be as simple as replacing this www.7ent.com/products/dashpot-damper-hs2-hs4-auc8103.html.
Actually sorry its this one for the HS4 carb: www.7ent.com/products/dashpot-damper-hs2-hs4-auc8103.html
Classic Mini DIY send me your email and ill send you a vid on want if doing
minis@ccmu.us
My 1275 is running very rich and won't idle.... has no throttle response whatsoever. It shuts of after 5 seconds of start up. Will start by cleaning the carb then tune it..... Thanx for the guide...
What about checking
Float level
Bell spring tension
Bell for scoring or carbon build up
Oil level in bell
I would classify the first 3 of those as things to do during removal and a complete refresh of the carb, not a regular tuneup. However oil level in the dashpot is worth mentioning and something I left out in this video.
@@classicminidiy I haven’t seen your video on refreshing a SU, but I recommend that if you didn’t now that Brass polish is good for cleaning the bell
Hello my friend my mini will not idle at 800-1000 it seems not to want to idle below 1100-1200rpm even when I turned the idle screw is tends to just want to stall
Sounds to me like the mixture might be a bit off. I am assuming you have the HIF44?
Classic Mini DIY many thanks I do have a hif44
I have a question.
My mini is running a twin hs2 Carb and recently its hard to start when the engine is cold (first start every weekends).
i pull the chok and it cranks a lot before start and i can smell fuel around the back of my car.
What should i do? Thanks.
Choke will make it run rich so smelling fuel out the tailpipe isnt that unusual when using the choke. Minis have a tendancy to struggle to start after sitting for a bit so its not totally unusual what you are describing. Probably just need to adjust the mixture a bit to dial it back in. With dual carbs you will want to make sure you adjust both carbs equally.
@@classicminidiy Thank you! Your help me a lot.
any common problems for minis bogging down under acceleration?
common vacuum leak areas, or fueling issues?
feels like I've tried it all, ignition, carb rebuild, fuel tank/line clean, mechanical pump clean. nothing
Have you checked the oil in your dashpots and made sure they are actuating properly? If it cannot smoothly actuate they could cause problems like boggng down. It also could be an issue with the fuel pump not delivering fuel fast enough as well. Perhaps trying another fuel pump to see how it runs.
Classic Mini DIY first thing I checked. and tried many different oils, 3 in 1 was working fine. now have the proper sure stuff.
how much does the spring inside the dashpot effect things? it's a later hif44.
many thanks
It looks like you've recently rebuilt your carb. Do you have any videos coming on rebuilding the HIF44? I am especially interested in tips about bush replacement.
I actually didn't rebuild this carb. It's a purchased kit from Seven Mini Parts.
www.7ent.com/products/hif6-hif44-carb-assembly-rebuilt-sevr0001.html
Very nice explanation.I'm from Sri Lanka. Can I buy a carburettor ?
My Mini has a single HS4 and it revs fine but will not hold an idle very long. It gets worst as the engine gets warm. Any ideas?
I would try adjusting the idle up a bit(higher RPM) to see if it helps it any. This can be done by tightening the adjustment screw pictured below.
Picture ----> imgur.com/a/mAdo7
How much do you turn the mixture screw get each time?
I usually turn it about a quarter turn at a time, test and then turn it again until its running nicely.
At 0:39 anyone notice a NERF gun? Haha 😄
:-D
I notice his clock has stopped. Maybe he's not in a workshop but using green screen?
hi, I just saw your video, thanks for info. I have MINI SPI 63PS but the carb ist not any more availible to buy and no one is able to fix it.( Throttle body MLB 10028), do you know how to fix it or to send to some to fix? i really appriciate if you can help me. Thanks a lot
Frankfurt Germany
Hey! Since you are located in the EU minispares, and minisport are great resources for this type of stuff. You also have a lot of really talented folks offering brand new throttle bodies for SPI minis. Specifically Specialist Components - www.specialist-components.co.uk/index.php/shop/classic-mini-performance-parts/classic-mini-injection-and-management/a-series-5-port-management-kit.html
Do you mean that I should change all this stuf ? Is it not the problem of carburetor ?
Not saying you should change everything. Just mentioning some options you have. The SPI minis do not use a standard carburetor, SPI = Single Point Injection. The fuel system is a form of fuel injection, not carburation. I think reaching out to MiniSpares or MiniSport would be your best first course of action. They should have some infromation about repairs if availble or whether the whole unit would need to be replaced.
If my mini is running rich can that cause high revs at low speeds? My rev counter reads 5500rpm at 50mph in 4th!
Running rich really wouldn't change speed/rpm ratio. That's generally to do with the gearing. However, when you put your foot down on the accelerator (as if you are trying to go fast) do you get immediate throttle response? If you have a stock gearbox setup that matches the most commonly setup cars, your speed in 4th gear at 5500rpm should be about 85-90mph. I am wondering if your clutch may be slipping. Have you noticed any oil leaks from the left side of the car (as you look at the engine from the front)?
@@classicminidiy ah I've no idea, it's definatley running rich tho, the response time seems alright to be honest, I've read up that the mpi clocks might read double the amount (I have a 1991 spi), can't see any leaks of oil anywhere either thanks for the reply
Why do you not show witch screew to change the mixture?
SU stands for Skinner's Union.
Mine the 2inner plugs r black but the 2 outer r brown what does that mean
That’s normal, the mini is a Siamese port style engine so fueling is never perfectly even across all four cylinders. Dual carbs can help a bit but it’s just part of the a-series engines.
How long do you run it for before checking the plugs?
Usually just a lap around the block. Enough to get it up to speed to burn off any carbon buildup from the previous test.
@@classicminidiy That's great. I appreciate the reply 👍👍
how to raise the jet higher?
The jets adjusted on the HIF44 by a small diagonally positioned screw on the back left of carb. Adjusting it tighter will reduce jet flow and looser will increase jet flow.
Off topic.. On my dash I have a switch with a pic of a gas or clutch pedal and have no clue what it's for? Cheers
Sounds like a brake test switch
Do you have a picture you could email to minis@ccmu.us? I could help out if I saw it. :-)
ok
That's the brake fluid level switch. As your brake fluid drops below the sensor in the master cylinder, that light will flicker. A good way to test is take some fast turns and keep an eye on it to see if it's flickering. By pressing the button you are only verifying that the light does work.
Thank you
I have heard that your carbs need oil in them. Is this correct?
Yes in fact you do. I did a video on how to do that before with my old carbs. Take a look!
czcams.com/video/kV_EBMU3yVM/video.html
Your videos give priceless information. Now I'm hungry for some chicken.
What needle are you running a dbl?
I am actually running a single HS6 on my car now, which is the same inlet size as the HIF44 but I am running a BBW currently.
@@classicminidiy Thanks, I am currently using a DBL with the HIF44 which is standard on my MG metro 1275cc.
It has a stage 1 kit " LSB,Alloy inlet manifold,RC40 exhaust, K&N air filter and stub stack, flowed and ported head".
I have read i my need a richer needle like a BDK ?
Any thoughts would be much appreciated.
when should i consider replacing the carb?
In my opinion there are only two times where I would replace the carb.
1. If I was looking for higher flow or more power
2. If the carb is causing problems and is not repairable(which in most cases you can rebuild the carb instead of replacing)
+Classic Mini DIY Thanks for the quick reply! I really appreciate it!
i just bought my first classic mini yesterday and it seams that the carb needs repairing to do as the engine seems to cut out while idling and the exhast smoke looks blacker than it should. I'm guessing its a stock carb on my 1974 mini 1.0. I'll try tuning it using the tips you gave in your video. Unfortunately we dont really have alot of replacement options around here so I'll have to order a carbeurator if this seams to be dead, which ones do you recommend?
In a seperate matter, the steering wheel seems to rattle when its turned (while the car is moving) either far right or far left, im guessing its either the tire disks or the brake shoes. what do you think?
What is the timing?
Which is better Twin HS2's or HIF44? What benefit did you gain from removing the Original Twin HS2's? Why is your needle jet SO LOW in the Carb housing? Does it run properly with it that low?
Depends what you mean by "better". The HIFs include features that help emissions but add complexity. Doubt if the normal punter could tell the difference in regard to whats under the bonnet when they are driving.
Where are u located? I would love for you to irk on my mini.
800rpm is low for the water pump to do its job,many recommend 1000/1100rpm.
I NEED YOUR HELP !!
WHAT CAN I DO TO HELP?!
@@classicminidiy I'M WAITING TO SEE IF HE GOT ANY HELP
DID HE GET ANY HELP?
This should be called HOW TO ADJUST YOUR IDLE as it covers about the final 3% of the tssk of actually TUNING an SU properly. You should fo a vidrton needke profiling and dsmper oil selection.
I'm not sure if this was coincidental... but your comment at 7:38 matches with my advertiser.
imgur.com/a/X5PQe
All part of the plan....
i.imgur.com/UMZo0w4.png
can we text directly through whatsapp? since its more easier for me to ask u..
Sorry I don't have whatsapp and the direct questions are only for my Patreon subscribers. I use discord. If you are interested in having that access you can check it out here:
patreon.com/classicminidiy