So helpful mate, Thankyou for sharing your knowledge so freely. I’ve been rebuilding a Hif44 for my Mg metro engined Mini and couldn’t work out why the accelerator pump effect was so lethargic regardless of what oil I used. Just realised watching this video that it has the wrong damper in it! It’s fitted with a LZX 1505, not the LZX 2085 as you said. Brilliant!🙏🤗
Back up and running, first time adjusting the HIF 44 to start after cleaning and refitting the float bowl assembly. This is a great teaching tool! Thanks very much.
I have an old MGB with twin carbs. After rebuild them it would not run. After I watched your video I learned how to properly set the carbs and now it runs well. Great video. Thanks.
I got a mini power screwdriver for 20 euro 17 years ago. Still in constant use. I see so many peeps wasting time and energy with screwdrivers. Wish I'd watched this video before I rebuilt and put me carbs back on mind! Rover P6. Good stuff bud!
Hi I found this very useful for base settings. I have an old 3500cc V8 with twin hif44. I can get it running but will go back and recheck these base settings as it struggles to pick up on revs.
You may find that this needs a full tune up like I am finding with many other SU equipped classics. Usually a nice pair of custom made needles will have it singing in short order, assuming that everything else is spot on.
Very good explanations as ever. Thank you! One question: I do not have a HIF44 but a HIF6 that I do not yet have dismantled. Are there differences between HIF6 and HIF44?
Regarding the dashpot damper, I dont have access to the 'fast drop' type. I read a comment on a fourm hat you posted to reduce the diameter to 7mm but which part of the damper would I have to reduce exactly? Thanks.
Great information, Im having alot of issues with a sherpa running a hif44 it always needs choke to start what ever temperature and will peter out if the idle screw is reduced below 1100rpm. Ive done all the seals,inlet gaskets and air leak checks but still wont let me set a nice base idle. Would you have any ideas?
@ACDodd I've had it on the 4 gas and it doesn't seem to matter at what co percentage you run it at, as soon as you try and reduce the idle stop screw to a sensible level it just Peters out then needs choke enrichment to restart. It has a late style ignition system with an ecu. Knock,ram and temp sensor.
Hello AC, question for you. I have Healeys and have had a 3.8 Jag. I am familiar with twin HD6, HD8 on the Jag and Big Healey and twin HS2s on our Bugeye. We are not unhappy with the performance of the HS2s on the Bugeye but just for fun thought we might try a single HIF 44 to see how we like it. We have acquired the new HIF 44 but have not fit it yet. still need to get the Maniflow manifold that will allow the HIF 44 to fit under the bonnet of the Bugeye. I have not encountered the manifold vacuum before on an SU having been used to ported vacuum with the other named SUs. I am just curious. Do you know why SU used manifold vacuum on the HIF44? It would seem that with a newer carb there would be more sensitivity to smoother running and improved emissions? But I know very little about such things and would like to learn. It just seems odd that one of the first things one would want to do with this fairly expensive carb is to block off the manifold hole and add a hole for ported vacuum. I certainly understand why you do it. I just don’t understand why SU didn’t design it with ported vacuum. Sorry for the long question. I love your channel and respect your knowledge and willingness to share. As I said in an earlier comment, I sure wish you were here in Florida! I hate to drill a hole in a brand new carb 😮 hope I don’t screw it up!
In short the position of the vacuum pipe has to do with the application. Some HIF carbs have ported vacuum as standard. Later engines were designed with economy and reliability in mind. Therefore the factory would install a dizzy with much retarded mechanical advance curve and rely on vacuum advance to make the engines run well at part throttle. Thereby, when cruising or light throttle openings vacuum advance figure were optimum. When you put your foot down the engine performance was disappointing. But it was good for reliability. Now if you change the mechanical advance to optimise power you will end up with too mulch advance at idle. This means you need to reduce the vacuum signal at idle and thus get rid of excess ignition advance. This reduces hydrocarbon emissions and enables a more stable idle. Then at art throttle the ported vacuum is uncovered and economy is Maximised as in the manifold vacuum version. When full power is demanded, vacuum drops and the engine is timed by the nowmoptimised mechanical advance mechanism, this delivering full power under all conditions.
AC, I previously mentioned sending my brand new HIF 44 to you to work your magic to prepare it for use on my son’s MKI Sprite. The carb has never been used, but I have watched enough of your videos to know that “new” doesn’t always mean “right.” I am going to check with DHL here (Bradenton, FL) tomorrow to see what the shipping cost will be. What address should I give them to estimate shipping? Thanks very much.
I have this HIF44 carb on my car which I recently bought It seems to have an intermittent fault where sometimes when the engine is hot/normal temp and at idle the engine will idle lower and lower before cutting out… 😩 It will then refuse to start unless you use a little bit of choke According to the previous owner the carb has been rebuilt… There is oil in the dashpot and there is a in line fuel filter fitted The fuel mixture, idle and fast idle have all been correctly adjusted What could be the issue with my carb please? As it stands it makes me frightened to drive the car in fear it mat cut out at a junction etc Thanks, Dan
I've got the SU HIF7 on my 1974 xj6, and it keeps on pooring / overflowing. New needleseats and needles already placed, and the float setting -1mm from the body bottom. What else can I do?
Hi do you do customer work? I have an MG Maestro Turbo carburettor that has been rebuilt a few years ago but is not running correctly, do you have any contact details? Chris
hi , when your installing the needle holder into the slide , does it only fit one way , I understand the slot part , but does the open end of the slot go towards the top or the bottom of the carb , I see you mention it goes flush with the slide bottom , so Im assuming the retaining screw sets the flush finish , not the slot letting the retainer float ,,, and advice will be appreciated.
@@ACDodd If its not too rude to ask , do you have any tips on setting the timing on an 1275 with an electronic ignition ,,, vac pipe off distrib , what revs and what degree , or can I do it static , like the good old days with points ... I have a strobe light , but nothing else , basically its to get it running roughly right but then Ive to find someone in northern ireland who can set it up properly ,,, sorry to be a pita .
Oh how I wish you had done this video 6 months ago. My 1330cc motor should have a HIF44 carb but I've had no end of trouble with the 3 that I have tried, one being a rebuilt unit none would run right. I sort advice from so called experts and none of it worked you fit a fast drop damper and that would have cured the problem. I have have at the moment a HIF38 fitted which works fine but probably not enough flow so can I ask do sell refurbed carbs? If so how do I contact you?
Yes contact me via Messenger. Carbs are exchange only. The reason I did the video was because I am aware of the frustrations people are having with poor information being available
Hello Mr Dodd. Your tutorial is absolutely what I needed as I am in the process of rebuilding the same unit. Just a question..... the Carburetor you're demonstrating appears to have a sheen of some kind. Is it just polished or coated with something?
@ACDodd Thank you sir. In regards to relocating the vent port....what angle would you say the hole needs to be drilled at, in order to come out in the correct place? What's the margin of error?
@@darendeonarine9277 both good questions, to be honest I have developed a process over 20 years using a pistol drill that requires no measuring and puts the hole in the right place. However, I have never measured a factory unit to give you the specs
Hello Mr. AC Ever had to remove a broken idle screw from a HIF44 CARBURETOR.? Had the body soaking in wd40 but the bugga snapped anyway?.... also what thread is it .....I'll likely have to drill and tap? Please advise.
Hif 38 all the way. More resilient/stronger float assembly, throttle shaft seals, rotary return springs on the throttle shaft, replaceable spindle bushes, ball bearing suction chamber, what’s not to like!!!
@@OnlineHousehusband no i would be installing a wideband gauge and then start with an ABD needle (very lean) and then run the engine and adjust from there
@@ACDodd indeed however it must be fueling and carburetor related at that because nothing else has changed. Can a carb be set up badly enough that you get absolutely nothing?
@@ACDodd it was flooded i believe, did some late night tuning and got it to a running and driving standard ready to fine tune tomorrow and hopefully get someone to properly tune it at some point
Nice, Just finish cleaning and a new service kit. Just have to get the car going again. Been sat so some years. Will go through these setting before first start up. I have a some new springs to try and different weight oils. So I'm looking for a fast drop and about 4 sec sink with 1.4kg on top. How does one mod the plunger if one need a faster drop? I like modding, not buying :-) As for tuning, i've been watching czcams.com/video/4DoFYbPNuzE/video.html for info on AF meters and logging to find a good needle. Thoughts? Just found this channel, very good and informative. Keep at it.
got her set up on my old harley davidson sporty 1980 iron head runs nice but not used for some time stale petrol ! yuck neads a good clean out nice carb fitted by the hairy one from gmg racing lost touch with him he was damn good
So helpful mate, Thankyou for sharing your knowledge so freely. I’ve been rebuilding a Hif44 for my Mg metro engined Mini and couldn’t work out why the accelerator pump effect was so lethargic regardless of what oil I used. Just realised watching this video that it has the wrong damper in it! It’s fitted with a LZX 1505, not the LZX 2085 as you said. Brilliant!🙏🤗
Glad to be of assistance
Back up and running, first time adjusting the HIF 44 to start after cleaning and refitting the float bowl assembly. This is a great teaching tool! Thanks very much.
Glad you found it useful. Now you need to tune it properly once running to get the best out of it.
You are the next level with everything that you do. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the kind comments.
I have an old MGB with twin carbs. After rebuild them it would not run. After I watched your video I learned how to properly set the carbs and now it runs well. Great video. Thanks.
Glad it helped you out, remember they now need tuning properly to get the best from them and your engine.
Another great video , just what I was after, looking forward to the next one , thank you .
Glad you
Found it useful
I got a mini power screwdriver for 20 euro 17 years ago. Still in constant use. I see so many peeps wasting time and energy with screwdrivers. Wish I'd watched this video before I rebuilt and put me carbs back on mind! Rover P6. Good stuff bud!
czcams.com/video/yXmTqM0y5kg/video.html
Brilliant vid, looking forward to driving this that you did for the 1220 going into my Mini
Will be a cracking engine that one!
Another great video. Will help me as I rebuilt and reinstall my engine. Thanks
I am glad you found it useful
Very thorough explanation, thank you! 👍
Dude, you really know your stuff.. thank you
This man is a legend with what he knows,
High praise indeed, thankyou very much!
Wonderful info, thank you so very very much!
Hi I found this very useful for base settings. I have an old 3500cc V8 with twin hif44. I can get it running but will go back and recheck these base settings as it struggles to pick up on revs.
You may find that this needs a full tune up like I am finding with many other SU equipped classics. Usually a nice pair of custom made needles will have it singing in short order, assuming that everything else is spot on.
How much oil should I put down the damper.
Really helpful, thanks.
Very good explanations as ever. Thank you! One question: I do not have a HIF44 but a HIF6 that I do not yet have dismantled. Are there differences between HIF6 and HIF44?
There are differences but essentially the same in operation. The hif6 does not have a ball bearing suction chamber.
Great video! Do you use the fast drop damper (2085) for a turbo set up as well, or better to use the turbo damper (1505)?
Yes but the turbo usually requires a stiff lift to maintain enrichment during acceleration
Hi what is the size of the blade used for tuning the fast iddle?
As it says in the video it’s 0.018”
Regarding the dashpot damper, I dont have access to the 'fast drop' type. I read a comment on a fourm hat you posted to reduce the diameter to 7mm but which part of the damper would I have to reduce exactly? Thanks.
Search an watch episode 10 of on the road tuning.
@@ACDodd Thankyou! In fact im watching the whole series now.
Hi AC. Can you let me know the dimensions for converting the carb from manifold to ported vacuum. Thanks, Dave
No because I don’t have them, I use a procedure that I follow to get them in the right place.
Great information, Im having alot of issues with a sherpa running a hif44 it always needs choke to start what ever temperature and will peter out if the idle screw is reduced below 1100rpm. Ive done all the seals,inlet gaskets and air leak checks but still wont let me set a nice base idle. Would you have any ideas?
You need to be able to determine how
Rich or lean it’s running.
@ACDodd I've had it on the 4 gas and it doesn't seem to matter at what co percentage you run it at, as soon as you try and reduce the idle stop screw to a sensible level it just Peters out then needs choke enrichment to restart. It has a late style ignition system with an ecu. Knock,ram and temp sensor.
@@DaleCutler-qf9hn check for airleaks on the manifold using brake cleaner
AC, do the same principles apply to a hs4 (butterfly / jet setting) ??
No
Took my 44 apart and the needle looks like a tin Soldier’s Sword / i’m guessing this is not good
Needles should be smooth and round
Have you a video on a hif7 carby set up and tune?
Thanks in advance
No I have not got one.
Hello AC, question for you. I have Healeys and have had a 3.8 Jag. I am familiar with twin HD6, HD8 on the Jag and Big Healey and twin HS2s on our Bugeye. We are not unhappy with the performance of the HS2s on the Bugeye but just for fun thought we might try a single HIF 44 to see how we like it. We have acquired the new HIF 44 but have not fit it yet. still need to get the Maniflow manifold that will allow the HIF 44 to fit under the bonnet of the Bugeye. I have not encountered the manifold vacuum before on an SU having been used to ported vacuum with the other named SUs. I am just curious. Do you know why SU used manifold vacuum on the HIF44? It would seem that with a newer carb there would be more sensitivity to smoother running and improved emissions? But I know very little about such things and would like to learn. It just seems odd that one of the first things one would want to do with this fairly expensive carb is to block off the manifold hole and add a hole for ported vacuum. I certainly understand why you do it. I just don’t understand why SU didn’t design it with ported vacuum. Sorry for the long question. I love your channel and respect your knowledge and willingness to share. As I said in an earlier comment, I sure wish you were here in Florida! I hate to drill a hole in a brand new carb 😮 hope I don’t screw it up!
In short the position of the vacuum pipe has to do with the application. Some HIF carbs have ported vacuum as standard. Later engines were designed with economy and reliability in mind. Therefore the factory would install a dizzy with much retarded mechanical advance curve and rely on vacuum advance to make the engines run well at part throttle. Thereby, when cruising or light throttle openings vacuum advance figure were optimum. When you put your foot down the engine performance was disappointing. But it was good for reliability. Now if you change the mechanical advance to optimise power you will end up with too mulch advance at idle. This means you need to reduce the vacuum signal at idle and thus get rid of excess ignition advance. This reduces hydrocarbon emissions and enables a more stable idle. Then at art throttle the ported vacuum is uncovered and economy is
Maximised as in the manifold vacuum version. When full power is demanded, vacuum drops and the engine is timed by the nowmoptimised mechanical advance mechanism, this delivering full power under all conditions.
Thanks, AC
AC, I previously mentioned sending my brand new HIF 44 to you to work your magic to prepare it for use on my son’s MKI Sprite. The carb has never been used, but I have watched enough of your videos to know that “new” doesn’t always mean “right.” I am going to check with DHL here (Bradenton, FL) tomorrow to see what the shipping cost will be. What address should I give them to estimate shipping? Thanks very much.
I have this HIF44 carb on my car which I recently bought
It seems to have an intermittent fault where sometimes when the engine is hot/normal temp and at idle the engine will idle lower and lower before cutting out… 😩
It will then refuse to start unless you use a little bit of choke
According to the previous owner the carb has been rebuilt…
There is oil in the dashpot and there is a in line fuel filter fitted
The fuel mixture, idle and fast idle have all been correctly adjusted
What could be the issue with my carb please?
As it stands it makes me frightened to drive the car in fear it mat cut out at a junction etc
Thanks, Dan
Could be a few things, first check the float level setting and then have it tuned properly.
@@ACDodd Brilliant will do thanks a lot ☺️
And so where is the procedure to modify the damper pin? Thank you
That’s covered in the 2 day practical training I offer.
I've got the SU HIF7 on my 1974 xj6, and it keeps on pooring / overflowing. New needleseats and needles already placed, and the float setting -1mm from the body bottom.
What else can I do?
What is the fuel pressure being supplied to the carb?
@@ACDodd new fuelpumps inside the tanks I actually don't know
@@cyrielgaemersmeasure and get back to me.
how much does an AC Dodd HIF44 turbo carb cost please
Send me a pm on Facebook messenger to discuss costs
Hi do you do customer work? I have an MG Maestro Turbo carburettor that has been rebuilt a few years ago but is not running correctly, do you have any contact details?
Chris
Yes all the time send me a Message via fb messenger
@@ACDodd
Ok will do, thank you.
hi , when your installing the needle holder into the slide , does it only fit one way , I understand the slot part , but does the open end of the slot go towards the top or the bottom of the carb , I see you mention it goes flush with the slide bottom , so Im assuming the retaining screw sets the flush finish , not the slot letting the retainer float ,,, and advice will be appreciated.
Open end of the slot into the piston first, the screw securely holds the needle holder in place no floating
@@ACDodd many many thanks for the swift reply ... that's the way I thought it worked ... but I rather liked the floating idea LOL.
@@ACDodd If its not too rude to ask , do you have any tips on setting the timing on an 1275 with an electronic ignition ,,, vac pipe off distrib , what revs and what degree , or can I do it static , like the good old days with points ... I have a strobe light , but nothing else , basically its to get it running roughly right but then Ive to find someone in northern ireland who can set it up properly ,,, sorry to be a pita .
@@tomthompson7400 send me a Facebook messenger pm you could be a likely candidate for remote tuning
@@ACDodd i dont use face book , ill delete the address once you have it ,,, many thanks
Oh how I wish you had done this video 6 months ago. My 1330cc motor should have a HIF44 carb but I've had no end of trouble with the 3 that I have tried, one being a rebuilt unit none would run right. I sort advice from so called experts and none of it worked you fit a fast drop damper and that would have cured the problem. I have have at the moment a HIF38 fitted which works fine but probably not enough flow so can I ask do sell refurbed carbs? If so how do I contact you?
Yes contact me via Messenger. Carbs are exchange only. The reason I did the video was because I am aware of the frustrations people are having with poor information being available
@@ACDodd Thanks, I will once I have sourced another carb and my son sorts me out with messenger
do SU carbs come set up for port vacuum. If not how can this feature be added?
Some do most don’t. It’s realatively simple to change you just re locate the port to the other side of the butterfly.
@@ACDodd thanks
Hello Mr Dodd.
Your tutorial is absolutely what I needed as I am in the process of rebuilding the same unit.
Just a question..... the Carburetor you're demonstrating appears to have a sheen of some kind.
Is it just polished or coated with something?
It’s just cleaned properly
@ACDodd Thank you sir.
In regards to relocating the vent port....what angle would you say the hole needs to be drilled at, in order to come out in the correct place?
What's the margin of error?
@@darendeonarine9277 both good questions, to be honest I have developed a process over 20 years using a pistol drill that requires no measuring and puts the hole in the right place. However, I have never measured a factory unit to give you the specs
@@ACDodd Thanks for taking the time.👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Hello Mr. AC
Ever had to remove a broken idle screw from a HIF44 CARBURETOR.?
Had the body soaking in wd40 but the bugga snapped anyway?.... also what thread is it .....I'll likely have to drill and tap?
Please advise.
Do you prefer a HS4 or HIF38, and why? Thanks
Hif 38 all the way. More resilient/stronger float assembly, throttle shaft seals, rotary return springs on the throttle shaft, replaceable spindle bushes, ball bearing suction chamber, what’s not to like!!!
@@ACDodd thanks for the thorough reply AC. Would you recommend a AAA swing needle for a tuned 998 with a MD 266 as a starting point?
@@OnlineHousehusband no i would be installing a wideband gauge and then start with an ABD needle (very lean) and then run the engine and adjust from there
@@OnlineHousehusband no I would start with an ABD (lean) needle and use a wideband to understand the fueling and then go from there.
Do you sell this one
Only on exchange
well it started for a second and now no matter what i do it doesn't fire back up or give anything
Then you need to determine the reason, ignition, timing or fueling
@@ACDodd indeed however it must be fueling and carburetor related at that because nothing else has changed. Can a carb be set up badly enough that you get absolutely nothing?
@@ambivalentonion2620 yes, usually flooding or no fuel whatsoever
@@ACDodd it was flooded i believe, did some late night tuning and got it to a running and driving standard ready to fine tune tomorrow and hopefully get someone to properly tune it at some point
@@ambivalentonion2620if the car won’t start from the positions shown it is likely that other parts inside the carb are not as per factory specs
Nice, Just finish cleaning and a new service kit. Just have to get the car going again. Been sat so some years. Will go through these setting before first start up.
I have a some new springs to try and different weight oils. So I'm looking for a fast drop and about 4 sec sink with 1.4kg on top.
How does one mod the plunger if one need a faster drop? I like modding, not buying :-)
As for tuning, i've been watching czcams.com/video/4DoFYbPNuzE/video.html for info on AF meters and logging to find a good needle. Thoughts?
Just found this channel, very good and informative. Keep at it.
Data logging is a long winded way around it, but if that’s all you have then will it will work.
@@ACDodd And the plunger mod? :-)
thankyou
No problem!
got her set up on my old harley davidson sporty 1980 iron head runs nice but not used for some time stale petrol ! yuck neads a good clean out nice carb fitted by the hairy one from gmg racing lost touch with him he was damn good