Resto-Mod Mini - #6 | KAD Belt Drive System Full Install
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- #classicmini #timingbelt #performance
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❱ Parts in this Episode:
KAD Belt Drive - kentautodevelopments.com/coll...
0:00 Intro
0:53 Belt Drive Details
7:25 Installation
13:37 Degree the Cam
27:41 Wrap up
Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I think I could improve you process a little. The piston will come to tdc and it will dwell there a little so finding the point is hesitation could be a couple degrees depending on the play in the piston pin, and oils clearance in the bearings. What you should do is spin the crank clockwise and when it gets to say .050” before tdc write down the number from the degree wheel. Then spin it past tdc then spin the crank counter clockwise and stop .050 before tdc and write down that number. Add the numbers together divide by 2 bobs your uncle that’s the true tdc. The crank has to be pushing up on the piston to take up all the tolerance stack up. It won’t make much of a difference on an engine like this, but good practice is good practice.
Your mom does not understand how you have learned how to do all of this but she is impressed. ❤️
I have had a belt drive for over a year. It is amazing how much quiter it really is.
Brilliant
"It's fine. It's fine. It's fine." @8:42 lol I can sooo relate.
I’ve been toying with the idea of going with a belt system for a couple of months now …. You’ve convinced me !
Thanks Cole 👍
I hope it's better than the MiniSpares one , that leaked like the Titanic !
The reason KAD doesn't include the gasket is probably because replacing the timing gear is mostly done when rebuilding the whole engine , and you'll buy an engine gasketset which includes that one.
nice one! thanks for the vids you do. thinking of tackling an engine build soon and watching your vids helps contribute to demystify a bunch of it for an idiot like myself. deffo gunna plonk one of these on it if and when the time comes. cheers! :D
Alright I know I just made a comment, but then I watched the video a little longer. You should NOT find the cam centerline like you did. A lot of cams are not symmetric the highest point isn’t always the center, this has become more of an issue with since they have been designing cams to be more gentle on the valve train. It is best to set the dial indicator on the base circle, so at the lowest point. Then spin the cam till you see .030 of lift write down that number spin the cam the opposite direction till you see .030 lift add the angles together and divide by 2 that’s your intake centerline. The problem with measuring where it hesitates is that could be a couple degrees especially on a long duration cam. The ramp open and closing point is the best way to do it. One other note I’d find a better way of setting up your dial indicator, you can unscrew the tip off most indicators and add a little extension, you shouldn’t use the pushrod, because it’s essentially a linkage, to measure anything you are just adding variables.
This is really great advice but as with most things I think context is important. The method I use in the video is the recommended process for this engine and cam. The mini turbo world has been dialing in the phase 2 cam the same way for years, and its how avonbar (the cam makers) recommend, so if its good enough for the cam designer, it'll be the way I do it. Now all of that said I think your method is excellent and definitely applies to more modern engines. The mini doesn’t have a way to provide a direct measurement on the lifters due to their placement. Either way I do appreciate you taking the time to teach me this updated method you use.
A rubber belt rather than a chain absorbs some vibration out of the engine cycle enhancing reliability and noise reduction ( which was mentioned ) . Kind of like a dual mass flywheel . Looks nice too !
👏👏👏 Always nice yo see you work.
Just a few comments. The KAD system looks very good...i would have tried it when I was racing had it been around. When you are finding TDC on the piston, there are several degrees of float and finding the point of hesitation is not accurate and will lead to inaccurate came timing. The method I used (many many times), was to find approximate TDC using your method, then zero the degree wheel pointer; then back off say 10 degrees and note the dial indicator; rotate to 10 degrees past TDC and look at the dial indicator..if it does not read the same, adjust your pointer slightly in the correct direction and repeat till you find tdc exactly. Basically the similar method you use to find max lift on the cam. BTW, I used belt drives for more than 25 years of racing...they are very reliable. I changed the belt whenever I took apart the motor...annually or twice annually.
Where is the alternator? I can’t see how it works with alternator.
I also have the MED trigger wheel kit, does the med hall sensor bracket still fit with the Kad belt drive?
I am not using the MED trigger sensor bracket, but I think it probably would still fit. Also just so you know the MED sensor is a reluctor sensor. They are a bit smaller so it may give you more wiggle room to make it fit.
i have the same MED pulley and once in the car it left no room for the belt to be replaces. could not get belt between pulley and motor mount.
Well dangit! 😆 Oh well, hopefully it hits all the other line items I had then.
@classicminidiy Doesn't mean it well on yours but that's What happened to mine and I had to trim the metal on the motor mounts a little bit. That was hard to do in the car.
Should have gone with the SH Engineering one
Why’s that?
@@classicminidiy Same product but without the KAD name tax 🤣
It’s a nice looking kit for sure. The KAD belt kit has deeper teeth in the belt though from the looks of it.
@@classicminidiy Sure the belt form is different but they perform exactly the same. SH parts over kad any day.
I've managed to scavenge a large portion of what you've been selling, so where's that old, ratty, useless duplex timing chain and timing cover you had on it? My engine build could use an upgrade from the simplex it had on it. ;)
Thanks for supporting the Charity! :-) The original timing system was handed down to a patreon almost as soon as I took it off actually. Sorry!
@@classicminidiy yeah, no surprises here. I assumed when this video came out and it wasnt posted that it was off to either a friend or a patreon. Looking forward to all the new episodes coming up!