How to Apply Wood Veneer to MDF Speakers
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- čas přidán 17. 08. 2024
- I show you how to apply wood veneer to a MDF speaker. Nothing more...nothing less.
Patreon: / merwinmusic
Website: www.lukemerwin.com
Twitter: / merwinmusic
0:00 Intro
0:16 Prep Work
1:30 Sanding
2:09 Veneer Layout
3:34 Glue
5:38 Contact
6:17 Rolling
6:54 Trimming
7:35 Finish - Hudba
Great tutorial. You've given me confidence to tackle my project.
Must admit the end product looks fantastic. We manufacture and veneer speaker cabinets for a company in the UK using a heated vacuum press as we find it far less tricky than contact glue (especially when using expensive veneers). Great work and cracking video.
Great Video! I used the white glue for wood, apply one or two layers on the speaker cabinet and the veneer. Let it dry seperately for about half an hour. Then ask gently the iron of your wife (where you iron your laundry with), DONT TELL WHERE YOU ARE GOING TO USE IT FOR!! Set the temp to mid-range and then place the veneer on your speaker cabinet and gently iron your veneer to you speaker. You will notice your glue is melting again, it sort of re-generates. So your veneer is glued/dryed at the same time. Works excelent!
How long does that last?
Hello richard, if you mean how long it lasts to dry; it is during ironing, like ironing your jeans, the glue dries in seconds. Thats the beauty of it, you press, slide and dry... it all happens at the same time. I did this method years ago on my speakers and the veneer looks as day one. No loose edges, nothing. Really sharp and neath..
Remko de Jong I’m going to have to try this method. However, I wonder how they last if exposed to less heat when compared to the traditional contract cement.
Hello richard; you should not expose this white glue to more then 60 degrees when applied (this states the manufacturer of the glue). My speakers are inside my livingroom, but the sun sometimes shines through the window on them and that is no problem at all
You mean PVA type white glue? Doesn't it cause the veneer to wrinkle and curl as I have seen in many videos and read online....
Tip - cover the edges of the veneer face with painter's tape before you apply contact adhesive. You were getting glue on the veneer face after using that foam roller.
Thanks for the great video! I followed it when I veneered my Tritrix speaker build kit. I had good luck using the Gel type contact cement on my wood veneer. Then I used "Seal-A-Cell" from General Finishes as the finish as it gives a nice pop to the grain in the veneer. With "Sea-A-Cell", the oils penetrate to highlight the warm natural look and the urethane ensures a good hard film build. For the wood veneer, I used the Sapele because it gives a lovely brown mahogany color, but it's just a bit more sophisticated looking than plain mahogany.
Another gluing method that works quite well and is easier is to spread wood glue on both surfaces.Use a hard rubber roller so it goes on evenly. After everything's dry use an iron to adhere. It works with a much better degree of control and sicks incredibly well.
Don't you read previous comments?
@@georgemacdonald3087 I do. But I don't go too far back when I see there are over 200. What a waste of time. Almost as useless as leaving snarky comments that don't actually address the topic. But it took you over 2 years to get here and point out my minor redundancy. Have you been busy annoying other people around the world or is being pedantic a new thing?
The woodworkers glue and iron method mentioned by Remko de Jong in this thread is the best method. No problem with lining it up, unlike with contact adhesive. The thing I would add is to iron the veneer BEFORE applying the woodworkers adhesive to pre-shrink the veneer. This is especially important if you need to make a join because your cabinets are too wide for the width of veneer you have. You would make this join in the middle so that the veneers are symmetrical. If you have to do this, ensure you purchase matching veneers. i.e. veneers cut from the same piece of wood. You flip one veneer sheet over and it should have the same grain pattern as the other one you are making the join to.
In this case, you would iron on the two matching veneers up to about an inch before the overlapping join. Once set, (almost instant) cut through both overlapping joins with a very sharp craft knife and straight edge. Remove the bottom piece of waste veneer. Then iron the remaining inch to complete the join.
I have cabinets I veneered 50 years ago with this method which are still perfect.
i have used iron with wood glue and have gotten bubbles, are u talking abiout a special adheiseive
?
@@joshsoorlin579 Apply wood glue like titebond to both entire surfaces and allow both to dry completely. Then offer up the veneer and iron. The heat regenerates the glue momentarily but cools quickly. No bubbles as long as you don't miss any areas with the glue.
Doesn't titebond or any similar PVA glue cause the veneer to wrinkle and curl as I have seen in many videos and read online....
@@HashMeister did this method, the veneer can and will curl a bit but you can just iron it out. I actually used tape (the plastic kind used to tape boxes) to tape the oversize edges on a panel. Those extreme edges wont get glue, but you cut those off anyways the extra glue sits on the tape. It makes it easy to roll on the tape, less messy and less curling. If you match the edge you tape the other parts that you're not matching (2 opposites sides max to match like this). When I didnt tape it curled more obviously, but it also didn't really matter. Dont use paper tape since it could glue to the veneer. Just makes a mess. Edit: I should add I've only done this for small surfaces, like 20 x 30 cm. I have not veneered larger surfaced. Might make a difference although I highly doubt it will.
Great video, I wish you showed a little more of the final result.
Agreed :p
Ditto!
Nice production value. I'm glad you're enjoying your speakers. You should be proud. Awesome work and thanks for the video.
Man I wish you showed gluing the sides and cutting/sanding them. Also would have been great to see them finished.
Liked and loved your idea of putting wood batons before sticking shhet to the enclosure.
Thanks for making this simple to the point video. Very similar to applying high pressure laminates but a router isn't needed to trim. Only omitted was cutting the driver holes but I see you posted a comment on that.
How did you do the veneer around the speaker whole? I wish I saw that part.
You veneer over it and flush trim it with a router
@@saiancantin7667 seems like it could have been worth it to show that step.
@@motodork he probably struggled with that one using just a knife 😄
Yeah the driver cutouts are critical. Why no showie ?
Greetings from Gdansk, Poland. Nice job.
Very helpful and thanks for posting! Would have been good to see how you trimmed for the speaker holes -- because the final result looks great!
Just worked slow with a utility blade. It went from a hexagon to octagon and so forth until it became a clean circle.
Very nice, systematically done. Thanks for the video.
Disappointing that you don't show the cutting where two pieces of veneer meet at the corners. That's the difficult part.
Great video. Nice job. Made it look very straightforward and easily doable if you take your time. Learned a lot. Thanks.
Excellent Video Explained the prep and 1st steps perfectly....
These are techniques I still need to learn. Thanks for sharing!!!
Nice video. Others showed different glue types that needed pressing. This way seems easier.
The veneer looks good...It's the best finish.
Excellent video. I would point out that when deciding which order to place the veneer in, the paper backing tends to be a dark strip. So that is typically why I do the top before I do the front. So when I’m sitting listening to the music I am not looking at the paper strip backing. However I have switched to Roya would Venere and the hot PVA glue method.. It is a little bit more temperamental because the Venere can crack as you were applying heat. But you certainly have a wider selection of veneers to choose from.
I enjoyed watching it! so easy to do with appropriate tools for furniture
Funny: I came here looking for tips on refinishing the wood veneer on my CR 1020, surprising to see it in the video
Would love to see some video about how you handled the corners. My greatest concert is having wonky seams.
From ordinary MDF to beautiful!
Thanks for the vid, your speakers look good! Tip for you: instead of using a Stanley blade to cut flush, use a “flush trim” bit in a router 👌🏼👍🏼
The tweeter opening is very shallow. I bought a flush trim bit and it does not fit.
Looks good , need to hear them .
very nice and beautifully done veneer
thank you
Very Nice job, looks great. Do you have a video on how you built the speakers. Thanks for sharing!
I do! czcams.com/video/C_EQL2J6YgE/video.html
wow awesome pal, i hate it when people make stuff like this look so easy lol!!
Looks absolutely beautiful! Great veneer!
Nice making
Veneering can be very difficult without commercial equipment. You make it look easy! Bought veneers are usually only 0.6mm thick. Trimming the edges is tricky. I found Iron on preglued is easier and longer lasting but more expensive. You can get contact adhesive that allows you a bit of movement initially. If you are a woodworker you can cut your own thicker veneers.. You can buy ready veneered mdf. Getting veneer flat without a vacuum press is difficult. Those are ideas that come to my mind.
Interesting video and great result. You can buy really interesting grained veneer.
thank you for this video, I'll be using it to help me in my upcoming speaker project.
nagyon ügyes vagy, gratulálok
Very good and complete video! Thank you!
Excellent work! Your build is super inspirational! Might have a go at building my own speakers, although I am not DIY gifted by any measure, so I'm expecting bad results
What a great tutorial! Thank you!
jeez, great job.
Good job 👍 excellent video! Using a router with the appropriate bit also does a great job on the edges although if you are careful a razor blade as suggested can do the trick!
Great video! You are very concise and smart!
Phenomenal video man !! Thank you
Do you have a video of cutting the speaker holes? I am thinking whether or not to free hand that cut, or use a router with a flush cut bit.
I have speakers that have a curved edge on the front, they aren't a 90° corner. The veneer will have to bend around this. I'll have to meet the pieces in the front. Any tips to help them join properly and also get my edges straight since I'll have to meet them in the middle in the front and in the middle of the sides.
That's an awesome improvement! Great video
I’m in south Jersey and it’s horrible for me. There aren’t any good lumber yards or anything here anymore. They all closed in the early 90s so I cannot literally go somewhere and look at the veneer. I do not trust ordering it online either just in case there are voids. At any rate, amazing job and it looks beautiful.
, round small wooden dowels work best to support the veneer over your surface. 👍
Wax paper, cut in half. One side, then the other.
I used 1/16th inch welding rods, lots of 'em...
I ordered a vacuum pump and bag recently for these sorts of things.. Trying to stay away from contact cement and move to urea based adhesive.
Great vid man, thank you!
Do most local hardware stores stock vaneer sheets like this? I'm having a hard time just finding it.
Any tips with dealing with the holes in the speaker?
Dang that looks so good! thanks for this video
How did you trim the veneer around the speaker recesses?
Great video! Thanks!
Excellent video - thanks!
dude, again great video. Thanks
Handy tip, when trimming venners or edge banding tape. Use a OLD OLD Stanley/utility blade. Blunter the better trust me
Do not use contact adhesive on veneer. If your speakers are going to be in direct sunlight, the contact cement is going to contract and tear the veneer. Been there, done that. use wood glue on both cab and veneer and iron on.
you should look into "Milk Shake" for your speakers, It is a Bondo/Resin Mixture and it is used to line the inside to reduce resonance. Love this Video!
They make a router blade for trimming work like that.
How did you trim around the driver holes?!!
Real solid video
Nice. Look like a pair of Living Voice speakers.
Nice. Thanks for this!
I would think that trimming the veneer around the speaker holes in the front baffle would be the trickiest part to this. Any tips?
Just run the razor against the edge the same as the outer edges, you start with kind of a octagon that gets more sides the more you go around until it is flush and circular.
I wouldn't say harder, just more time consuming.
MerwinMusic OK. I may get up the nerve to do this. Thanks for the encouragement!
Doesn't the speaker have a flange that will help cover the curved edge? At any rate, I always use a very sharp, brand new razor knife, and always cut on the downstroke (towards the speaker, not away from it) to avoid any possibility that the veneer will lift off or tear. Also, sneak up on the final cut. You'll find that if your final cut is only a 1/16" or so, the veneer just slices and curls very obediently away from your desired cut line. If there's any tiny bit left over, you can clean it up with a sand block. Again, I always sand with a downstroke. Good luck with your project!
Good video. Thanks!
If you are using a veneer from an open grain wood like mahogany, be sure to apply a grain filler before the finish. This will keep the finish from dropping into those open pores and making the surface look uneven.
Looks pretty cool thanks
Hi, great tutorial. One thing that you didn't address is how you cut the holes for the drivers in the veneer. I was personally thinking of veneering the box first and then routing the driver holes, but obviously you did it the other way around. How did you get clean round cuts?
The holes had a rabbit so the speakers sit flush. So I cut it out the same way with a knife and then used a round scrap of wood to sand the veneer flush to the mdf. The same process as the edges just with a little extra time.
Harlem Wave Cascade , router with flush cut veneer bit holmz, Home Depot has them cheap for a router and or Dremel tool.
Nice job.Congratulations
Nice job!
Good jop. So useful thanks a lot.
Well last minute was tooo good
Awesome love seeing young people into DIY i build speakers also it's a great hobby the Tritrix are a popular kit i bet they sound great. And your using a Yamaha CR 1020 that is awesome i have a ultra rare Yamaha CR 3020 but my CR 1020 believe it or not sounds better both have been recapped. Also great video to the point i like that great job !!!!!
what do you do if you get the contact glue on the finish side? will it just come off with the sanding before the stain process. or do you need to get it off with something some kind of cleaner first?
Please tell where you purchase the roll of veneer. Thanks.
I got it from Owl Hardwood here in Des Plaines IL
Only thing me I'd use the fiberglas less chance of bubbling down the road. Like you said as If you where going to paint it. When doing quality body work they use the fiberglas filler and, using an ultra light weight bondo.
Nice job.
I just picked up a set of 5 DIYSG speakers that are complete and assembled, but are bare MDF. Considering veneer....but oh man, doing five speakers would be a LOT of work. Also, why no video of how to cut the holes in the front? That seems kinda important lol.
How do you cut out the speaker holes?
Austin Powers! Speakers are your bag baby!
how did you cut the circles?
Thanks!! great video!!
great vid!
Great job!! Subbed.
Amazing video thanks!!
Anybody can help suggesting a similar glue in UK?? CAN’T FIND ANYTHING LIKE THIS 😫😖😖
It's everywhere dude. All hardware shops carry contact cement...
I found out later that in UK are called adhesive instead of cement.
BTW, I still could not find one that has a similar consistency to be spread with the roller.
The once I have found are way more sticky and impossible to be spread with the roller.
Do you know one?
Nice CR-1020. I have the CR-620, but am looking to upgrade to either a 1020 or 2020.
It's killer but I probably should do a cap job on it soon.
i was looking for tips on how to cut out the circular holes for the drivers... that tiny detail seems to have been skipped from 7:17 to 7:18 🤣
nice that
...something else to add is certain wood veneers will not take varnish. e.g. Teak and Afromosia. The oils in the wood stop the varnish from drying. If you must have a varnish finish on these oily woods, you must use Sanding Sealer first.
Excelent video and technique, by the way, you can write down directly to the veneer, then later delete the marks with isopropilic alcohol or spirits, thanks !!
Thanks Waldo
Very nice tutorial. For lazy bum like me, i would use an iron on veneers 😂
Great video, I was wondering how do you trim out the holes for your speakers after you put veneer on especially on the inside holes used to flush mount speakers are using.
Same way as outside. It just starts as a triangle, then square, octagon until it becomes a clean circle.
Great video 😍 tank's bro
Very good....
Great video, very informative. I know I’m a year a so late to the party here, I’m wondering why apply the first coat of contact cement and let it dry then adding a second. What’s the benefit of this technique?
stronger bond id assume
Because some of the first coat will soak into the wood and you want the second coat to go on evenly.
What does the wiring look like are there snap on terminal connecters for home theater wire?
Absolutely great 👍