A lot of fix-it-up channels on CZcams seem to have devolved into someone looking into the camera and talking about what they did or are going to do (or why they can't do it) while showing very little actual doing. Your channel has avoided this trend. I enjoy the balance of explanation and action in your videos; it makes for a great viewer experience. When you do talk to the camera you always have something relevant and interesting to say. Even with long projects like Preparation H every episode moves the job forward, and the high quality of your work is the icing on the cake. Thank you, and keep up the good work. 👍
6:39 Also, tractors built during the war and the early models would not come with electrical systems from the factory. Black components could have been either dealer installed options or aftermarket kits using new or remanufactured components. We've gotten replacement IH parts from the dealer for more modern stuff in 4 or more different colors: red, white, black, industrial yellow, primer. depends on the plant or the day with replacements.
It takes a lot of effort setting up for real time recording work! I haven't put out a video for some time because of this effort. Getting the area ready. Making sure lighting is okay. Is my microphone going to keep working?
They sure do go together quickly when everything is clean, prepped, and all of the smaller sub-assemblies are already assembled. She's going to look real nice. And I wouldn't worry about any orange peel. It's world's better than it was when it left the factory. Back then, the paint wasn't for looks, it was to keep them from rusting!
Thanks Kenny! The only trouble is that you set the bar pretty high with the ‘41 H, so I gotta be keeping up with the new standard in IH Red paint jobs now lol 👌😎
You made the right decision on the tinwork paint. We perfectionists often struggle to forgive ourselves over things others will never even notice much less appreciate.
In woodworking, there is the 6 ft and 6 inch rule. If it looks good from 6 ft, it's good. If someone has to get 6 inches from the project to see the problem, you don't need them for a friend anyway.
You have been so concerned about the orange peel on the tins....to be perfectly honest, as a viewer, I can't see what you are seeing...the whole tractor looks beautiful...can't wait to see you driving it around the yard with a big smile on your face
You need to have a picture taken of you and your dad on your tractors. That would be awesome. In fact, you could make a calendar of all your tractors and Cats. I think it would sell like hotcakes. Do I need to put a deposit on my copy.
Oh man - the H is coming to an end - I love seeing that, but will miss seeing it at the same time. It is looking SO GOOD, Toby! And I know that you will actually be using it, that's the best part - it's not destined to be a hanger queen. Good stuff.
I was in the color business. No two batches of paint are 100% exact matches 100% of the time. Depending on the testing tolerance, there will be minute variations or significant. When you get a new can, test it. Ideally you would take one piece of metal, prime it and paint the two batches on side by side. The compare in sunlight, shop light, and whatever other light you will be looking at it under.
My grandfather who was a master painter, when doing bigger jobs, would mix all his paint together and return it to the tins (to avoid paint colour variation).
@@geriatricjoe1227 Still best practice in this day and age. I service paint tinting machines. Mis-tints is a recurring complaint. Worst is when I re-calibrate a machine that was out of calibration, because then the color made after is definitely not the same as the one made before
Around here, the big electrical rebuilding outfit always put a coat of grey primer on the starters and generators they rebuilt, figuring the owners would paint it themselves to match the equipment it was going on. So here in West Central Illinois (probably anywhere within an hour of Galesburg, there are tons of machines running around with grey starters and generators.
You know what it looks far better than it did when you started. Lot of the past mistakes got corrected so the orange peel is probably the very last thing to worry about. I will say your videos are very inspirational.
Must agree with @oliverscratch about your detailed explanation about why and what while showing it, perfect video presentation and the fact that you keep your episodes at just the right length (timewise). Your craftmanship is excellent and you do it how you prefer - and "That is the way" as the Mandalorian say it 😉
the antisapation to hear that tractor run and drive is more than I can bear,,,,what a nice looking machine and not one thing jerry rigged ,good stuff.......I spent many a hour on a hay wagon behind a h they were sure nice running tractors......
Awesome job. Enjoy the video. Because of you, I bought an old tractor to fix up. But not going into the detail of paint. But had a blast making it run. Looking forward to more of your videos.
I have spoke with 3 different NAPA stores, a sales rep out of Detroit, and a regional sales manager for Martin senour and I can’t get it. I am the same as you, most of the way thru my project, try to buy more and learn it’s impossible . For me, I worked with the Sherwin Williams technical support team over 4 different calls. Finally I have a formula number 100009501. This is for Sherwin Williams K1 series in international harvester red that is supposed to be a very very close match in color to the pcc135ih. It’s plays well with the primer, reducer, and hardner we already have. Recoat times the tech team told me was less than 8 hours , or after 48 hours but less than 14 days. After 14 days you no longer get a chemical bond and you have to sand to create a mechanical bond. I have now used this paint on a super c I am restoring and I cannot tell which was painted with the MS and which was painted with the SW. if there is any difference in the color my eye can’t see it. Best of luck to you
In my humble opinion, I think the orange peel on the hood and tank actually matches the paint on the rough castings on the engine block, rear diff, etc.
I have a 1950 H Distillate. It starts with gasoline and burns kerosene after it gets hot. It also has the wide set front wheels. I have another H with a seized engine and narrow front wheels, but it has the factory hydraulic system in the transmission housing.
Thanks for the video Toby! Man it’s great to see Preparation H coming along and one step closer to completion! Looking great! I wouldn’t worry about the paint since it’s worlds better than when it came off the assembly line! Can’t wait for the next video!
I think the tractor looks really good and as said in the comments probably a lot better than when it came out of the factory. If the orange peel is really bugging you I would find a little area where you could try experimenting with colour sanding. Start with say 1500 paper, then 2000 then buff it. I don't think you need to strip it back to bare metal. The paint will be fully hard now so should flat quite well.
Although i wish you well for outside work weather 🌡️ perhaps selfishly some rain 🌧️☔ might bring forward the long awaited start H start up 🤔💪💪👌 great video 👍
Leaving the paint staying as is, was a smart choice since the factories didn't really care about some orange peal, fish eyed or overspray. Makes your tractor alot more period correct in my opinion. Love the content, would love to see it in person if i could
I’m sorry, I didn’t read through all the comments. Many times at work we have fixed a peely paint job by scotchbriting the whole things and re clearing with a thinner mix. I can’t remember if you had cleared this paint or not. But that would be a very easy fix, and give you more to wet sand and polish if you don’t get it slick enough for your liking.
When you got a better finish with the batch where you had added extra reducer, you lowered the viscosity which would make the paint more flowable and better able to level out. You should check out getting a viscosity cup to measure the vis before spraying. They are cheap. The old standard was a Ford cup but there are variations now. I'm sure there are CZcams videos on them.
My thought on the paint is.. As long as the paint is out of stock the existing paint job is OK.. If in the future you get more paint you can always wet sand and hit it again.. However if you sand now and get a few thin areas and need to lay it down and don't have enough paint.. That would be a bummer.
I love your channel and all the work you do. I’d like to add, though you didn’t mention anything about torque specs on all those bolts. Now, before all the keyboard commandos start correcting me. I know that Squatch worked as a mechanic for a lot of years, so he probably knows how to tighten things down close to torque specs. I pointed this out, not as a criticism, but as a curiosity.
Toby, great progress on the Farmall H. It’s looking awesome. I think the paint on the tin looks awesome too. If there are any imperfections I think you are the only one that can find them. You definitely are a projectionist. I truly admire you for that. Very enjoyable video. Thanks
Excellent video Squatch 253 (Toby) :) very nice Farmall H going together super and very good on rainy projects to do yes 100% agree! Do remember years when Starter also Generator got painted black from Rebuilt companies and some GM Delco Alternator to or got Chrome paint !
Great to see you got it all coming together! A little dust on the sheet metal from plowing no one going to see a little orange peel. Great job and long time coming!
I suspect that particular number [GALPCC135IH] won't be coming back on the market as it is the 3.5 VOC formula. The 2,8 VOC formulation has a different part number [GALPCC285IH] and with the push to reduce VOCs seemingly everywhere, might be more likely to be available in the future.
Good call on paint! You never know if you will need a touch up later on down the road. If you use all of it now, you won't have any later. Hopefully the paint in the can will last for a couple years until SW restocks it.
I like how you "hide" those hose clamp screws. I always thought those tower-style clamps were the nicest to look at, but you may have changed my mind by just turning those standard ones around.
Your local Sherwin-Williams store should be able to mix the paint for you in-house as you wait. It looks like, to me, the mixture is no longer proprietary, or S-W owns the rights to the mixture.
I contacted four different SW automotive paint stores and each one passed me along to another location saying “We don’t mix paint here…” until I finally landed back at the first one that I originally called.
G'Day Squatch from Australia. If you have little or no base colour left to use on the tin work.... why not clear coat the final coats? Then sand that back to get rid of the orange peel? Colour wouldn't change, and the finish is fixed. Just thinking out loud, mate. Love your work.
I never left, I upload videos every couple of days but sometimes the notifications system gets buggy and quits telling people about the new videos for some reason 🤷🏻♂️
I've been told by other Farmall guys to use (GASP!) John Deere corn head grease in the steering gears of the letter tractors. I've put some in an A I have and have not had any issues thus far. Have you seen or heard of this being used before? I have a Super A I'm also working on and thinking of putting the same grease in it.
Yes, my Caterpillar track roller grease is a semi-fluid “00” weight grease, exactly the same as cornhead grease. The only issue I have with putting it in this Farmall steering sector is that my Cats have shown how that stuff will seep and creep past any imperfection in the seals, and I’m worried it would make that vertical steering shaft slimy. I did use that “00” grease in the distributor drive housing though 👍
Given how they were painted at the factory, I suspect your paint is as good or better! And having seen the picture in that book of the painting, I think you are about factory correct minus the water overspray catch! Great work and exposition!
Hey Squatch. If you only have a small amount of paint, it's probably a good idea not to risk sanding enough to get rid of the orange peel and then have to paint the parts in Minneapolis-Moline color because you ran out. 😂 Seriously though, you can still keep an eye out for the right, correct, and proper color to show up on the market again and then remove and repaint any parts that make the left one 👁 twitch too much when you look at them. You take good enough care of your equipment that you probably don't need to worry about sun fading for a while. Keep up the good work, and "Hi" to Senior.
Question: As a working farm tractor, how important are the looks, vs the preservation of the steel? (One idea.) (Idea 2). I came to grips on my paint project last year, painting the roof and hood of my mid 90's daily driver Volvo station wagon (worth $325 by kbb standard), do orange peels (bugs and 1 run) really matter? I do like oranges and am a bit obsessive, but spraying, in a Red-Green-Show contrived environment, my family convinced me to stop and sleep at night, as no rust would start (and the finish looked way better than previous). I would say, it is ok...........for now.
Talking about “good paint”, we had the exterior of our condo repainted, didn’t use the garage door for a few days, and when I finally did the drive gear sheared off the opener because the paint stuck so hard 😊
A lot of fix-it-up channels on CZcams seem to have devolved into someone looking into the camera and talking about what they did or are going to do (or why they can't do it) while showing very little actual doing. Your channel has avoided this trend. I enjoy the balance of explanation and action in your videos; it makes for a great viewer experience. When you do talk to the camera you always have something relevant and interesting to say. Even with long projects like Preparation H every episode moves the job forward, and the high quality of your work is the icing on the cake. Thank you, and keep up the good work. 👍
You should watch the two Oliver in Snowball Engineering and Bradshaw Joinery
6:39 Also, tractors built during the war and the early models would not come with electrical systems from the factory. Black components could have been either dealer installed options or aftermarket kits using new or remanufactured components. We've gotten replacement IH parts from the dealer for more modern stuff in 4 or more different colors: red, white, black, industrial yellow, primer. depends on the plant or the day with replacements.
@@bchdsailor Thanks! I am already a big fan of Mr. Snowball's channel. I'll give the Joinery one a look.
It takes a lot of effort setting up for real time recording work!
I haven't put out a video for some time because of this effort.
Getting the area ready. Making sure lighting is okay. Is my microphone going to keep working?
please let me know if I can help
They sure do go together quickly when everything is clean, prepped, and all of the smaller sub-assemblies are already assembled. She's going to look real nice. And I wouldn't worry about any orange peel. It's world's better than it was when it left the factory. Back then, the paint wasn't for looks, it was to keep them from rusting!
Thanks Kenny! The only trouble is that you set the bar pretty high with the ‘41 H, so I gotta be keeping up with the new standard in IH Red paint jobs now lol 👌😎
@@squatch253hey up did you consider just using that last bit of paint on the tank as it does get buried
You made the right decision on the tinwork paint. We perfectionists often struggle to forgive ourselves over things others will never even notice much less appreciate.
You would be surprised at how many new cars I've seen with orange peel paint.
looks good from my house
In woodworking, there is the 6 ft and 6 inch rule. If it looks good from 6 ft, it's good. If someone has to get 6 inches from the project to see the problem, you don't need them for a friend anyway.
Pro tip for those using those tag rivets or drive screws. They sell a special punch for installation, it leaves the head round too.
You have been so concerned about the orange peel on the tins....to be perfectly honest, as a viewer, I can't see what you are seeing...the whole tractor looks beautiful...can't wait to see you driving it around the yard with a big smile on your face
It’s 10 times the better paint job than it left the factory with.😊
Give it some more cure time and wet sand and polish it should look even better then it currently does.
You need to have a picture taken of you and your dad on your tractors. That would be awesome. In fact, you could make a calendar of all your tractors and Cats. I think it would sell like hotcakes. Do I need to put a deposit on my copy.
Oh man - the H is coming to an end - I love seeing that, but will miss seeing it at the same time. It is looking SO GOOD, Toby! And I know that you will actually be using it, that's the best part - it's not destined to be a hanger queen. Good stuff.
I was in the color business. No two batches of paint are 100% exact matches 100% of the time. Depending on the testing tolerance, there will be minute variations or significant. When you get a new can, test it. Ideally you would take one piece of metal, prime it and paint the two batches on side by side. The compare in sunlight, shop light, and whatever other light you will be looking at it under.
That’s also why when it comes to colour there are batch numbers! I doubt a can of the same red will be the exact same next year.
My grandfather who was a master painter, when doing bigger jobs, would mix all his paint together and return it to the tins (to avoid paint colour variation).
@@geriatricjoe1227 Still best practice in this day and age. I service paint tinting machines. Mis-tints is a recurring complaint. Worst is when I re-calibrate a machine that was out of calibration, because then the color made after is definitely not the same as the one made before
Around here, the big electrical rebuilding outfit always put a coat of grey primer on the starters and generators they rebuilt, figuring the owners would paint it themselves to match the equipment it was going on. So here in West Central Illinois (probably anywhere within an hour of Galesburg, there are tons of machines running around with grey starters and generators.
You know what it looks far better than it did when you started. Lot of the past mistakes got corrected so the orange peel is probably the very last thing to worry about. I will say your videos are very inspirational.
Must agree with @oliverscratch about your detailed explanation about why and what while showing it, perfect video presentation and the fact that you keep your episodes at just the right length (timewise). Your craftmanship is excellent and you do it how you prefer - and "That is the way" as the Mandalorian say it 😉
the antisapation to hear that tractor run and drive is more than I can bear,,,,what a nice looking machine and not one thing jerry rigged ,good stuff.......I spent many a hour on a hay wagon behind a h they were sure nice running tractors......
Thank you for another great video! I would enjoy watching the wireing harness installation. Thanks for all you do ✌️
My favourite part of any project, assembly day. so nice to see those perfect parts be assembled like they would be in the factory. beautiful
Awesome job. Enjoy the video. Because of you, I bought an old tractor to fix up. But not going into the detail of paint. But had a blast making it run. Looking forward to more of your videos.
Thanks for the update, Squatch
That tractor is looking stunning 👍
I have spoke with 3 different NAPA stores, a sales rep out of Detroit, and a regional sales manager for Martin senour and I can’t get it. I am the same as you, most of the way thru my project, try to buy more and learn it’s impossible .
For me, I worked with the Sherwin Williams technical support team over 4 different calls. Finally I have a formula number 100009501. This is for Sherwin Williams K1 series in international harvester red that is supposed to be a very very close match in color to the pcc135ih. It’s plays well with the primer, reducer, and hardner we already have. Recoat times the tech team told me was less than 8 hours , or after 48 hours but less than 14 days. After 14 days you no longer get a chemical bond and you have to sand to create a mechanical bond.
I have now used this paint on a super c I am restoring and I cannot tell which was painted with the MS and which was painted with the SW. if there is any difference in the color my eye can’t see it.
Best of luck to you
This morning I stopped at a paint store and they have a gallon of the paint you want.
I've currently got another gallon of that IH red on its way from Colorado as we speak, thanks to a kind channel viewer :-)
It sure is satisfying to install nice, freshly painted parts-provided they don’t get scratched putting them on. It’s a nail-biter sometimes.
In my humble opinion, I think the orange peel on the hood and tank actually matches the paint on the rough castings on the engine block, rear diff, etc.
Clear coat it. Then if needed you can wet sand it. It will look better just by spraying clear.
I have a 1950 H Distillate. It starts with gasoline and burns kerosene after it gets hot. It also has the wide set front wheels. I have another H with a seized engine and narrow front wheels, but it has the factory hydraulic system in the transmission housing.
Squatch I've been looking forward to this for months as you as well know... 00:12...😊
Thanks for the video Toby! Man it’s great to see Preparation H coming along and one step closer to completion! Looking great! I wouldn’t worry about the paint since it’s worlds better than when it came off the assembly line! Can’t wait for the next video!
Aye but it doesn't match the rest so would obviously make an eye twitch after all this work
Fantastic job. Can't wait for the startup!
Such is the life of an extreme perfectionist...
I think the tractor looks really good and as said in the comments probably a lot better than when it came out of the factory. If the orange peel is really bugging you I would find a little area where you could try experimenting with colour sanding. Start with say 1500 paper, then 2000 then buff it. I don't think you need to strip it back to bare metal. The paint will be fully hard now so should flat quite well.
Although i wish you well for outside work weather 🌡️ perhaps selfishly some rain 🌧️☔ might bring forward the long awaited start H start up 🤔💪💪👌 great video 👍
Leaving the paint staying as is, was a smart choice since the factories didn't really care about some orange peal, fish eyed or overspray. Makes your tractor alot more period correct in my opinion. Love the content, would love to see it in person if i could
I’m sorry, I didn’t read through all the comments. Many times at work we have fixed a peely paint job by scotchbriting the whole things and re clearing with a thinner mix. I can’t remember if you had cleared this paint or not. But that would be a very easy fix, and give you more to wet sand and polish if you don’t get it slick enough for your liking.
Toby the tin work is fine, it's a tractor and better painted than new. This is going to be a semi working tractor not a concourse
The distributor tip also goes for the Allis-Chalmers B,C,CA install.
Squatch. Tractor is looking good.... Squatch. In a future video; Could you give us an update on your Eye's ?
Take a sample of the remaining paint and send it for full chemical analysis. At least then you have the necessary information as to the paint itself.
Keep her like it is…as Kenny said, better than what the factory put out.
Your fan mile is waiting for the X prototype to continue. The red tractor is very nice, but not a real challenge for you.
Lookin good Squatch. Don't sweat the paint job, take the billboard painters attitude; 'They'll never see it from the road' !
Excellent video the Farmall looks really nice the parts look better on the tractor then hanging on the garage door track. Keep up the great videos
Good job Squatch looks really good
Have a gallon of PCC135IH on shelf.
Great to see some progress! Thanks for the video!
So much Red all in one place - love it!
When you got a better finish with the batch where you had added extra reducer, you lowered the viscosity which would make the paint more flowable and better able to level out. You should check out getting a viscosity cup to measure the vis before spraying. They are cheap. The old standard was a Ford cup but there are variations now. I'm sure there are CZcams videos on them.
It will be fun to see it going again!
Finally, the "soothing relief" i've been looking for today.
Looks great! Can't wait to hear it run.
Good job! She’s gonna be the prettiest princess at the ball! 🥸👍👀✅
I can HARDLY WAIT until you can get back on X231.
My thought on the paint is.. As long as the paint is out of stock the existing paint job is OK.. If in the future you get more paint you can always wet sand and hit it again.. However if you sand now and get a few thin areas and need to lay it down and don't have enough paint.. That would be a bummer.
That’s where I’m at with it too - if I could buy more paint, the respray would be an easy decision to make 👍
I love your channel and all the work you do. I’d like to add, though you didn’t mention anything about torque specs on all those bolts.
Now, before all the keyboard commandos start correcting me. I know that Squatch worked as a mechanic for a lot of years, so he probably knows how to tighten things down close to torque specs.
I pointed this out, not as a criticism, but as a curiosity.
Toby, great progress on the Farmall H. It’s looking awesome. I think the paint on the tin looks awesome too. If there are any imperfections I think you are the only one that can find them. You definitely are a projectionist. I truly admire you for that. Very enjoyable video. Thanks
Well I was going to go to bed, but there is a new Squatch episode!
I heard that the Napa in Jacksonville Florida had some of that IH red in stock. If only you knew someone who lived there.
Good progress was made! I had my H out for a spin yesterday.
If you really want to keep the contrast between the brass fittings and the red carburetor you could clear lacquer coat the brass. 😅😅
Excellent video Squatch 253 (Toby) :) very nice Farmall H going together super and very good on rainy projects to do yes 100% agree! Do remember years when Starter also Generator got painted black from Rebuilt companies and some GM Delco Alternator to or got Chrome paint !
Great to see you got it all coming together! A little dust on the sheet metal from plowing no one going to see a little orange peel. Great job and long time coming!
That orange peel is going to drive you nuts!
I think going with what you have is the way to go.
I suspect that particular number [GALPCC135IH] won't be coming back on the market as it is the 3.5 VOC formula. The 2,8 VOC formulation has a different part number [GALPCC285IH] and with the push to reduce VOCs seemingly everywhere, might be more likely to be available in the future.
I ABSOLUTELY LOVE the screwdriver you used on the carb!!!!!
Beautiful looking result - excelent craftsmanship!
Killing it dude. Currently splitting my C due to oil slinger issues
Good call on paint! You never know if you will need a touch up later on down the road. If you use all of it now, you won't have any later. Hopefully the paint in the can will last for a couple years until SW restocks it.
The H is looking good, I'm waiting for you to do the W4, any idea when that will be. Thanks & keep up the good work.
I have about a quart of that paint left over from a project if you get into a bind.
Looks great from here. If it helps Im from Michigan and there os a Sherwinn Williams store in Adrian, Michigan. Maybe they would have paint you need.
Do you think it would be possible to do a light color sanding and reshoot the sheet metal with clear for a smoother finish?
I'm on the edge of my seat waiting to watch you cruise on that beauty.
I like how you "hide" those hose clamp screws. I always thought those tower-style clamps were the nicest to look at, but you may have changed my mind by just turning those standard ones around.
Your local Sherwin-Williams store should be able to mix the paint for you in-house as you wait. It looks like, to me, the mixture is no longer proprietary, or S-W owns the rights to the mixture.
I contacted four different SW automotive paint stores and each one passed me along to another location saying “We don’t mix paint here…” until I finally landed back at the first one that I originally called.
G'Day Squatch from Australia. If you have little or no base colour left to use on the tin work.... why not clear coat the final coats? Then sand that back to get rid of the orange peel? Colour wouldn't change, and the finish is fixed. Just thinking out loud, mate. Love your work.
Looking forward to first start and moving everything to the new building. Equipment parade!
Fantastic work! It’s beautiful! 😊
Glad you’re back!!
I never left, I upload videos every couple of days but sometimes the notifications system gets buggy and quits telling people about the new videos for some reason 🤷🏻♂️
I've been told by other Farmall guys to use (GASP!) John Deere corn head grease in the steering gears of the letter tractors. I've put some in an A I have and have not had any issues thus far. Have you seen or heard of this being used before? I have a Super A I'm also working on and thinking of putting the same grease in it.
Yes, my Caterpillar track roller grease is a semi-fluid “00” weight grease, exactly the same as cornhead grease. The only issue I have with putting it in this Farmall steering sector is that my Cats have shown how that stuff will seep and creep past any imperfection in the seals, and I’m worried it would make that vertical steering shaft slimy. I did use that “00” grease in the distributor drive housing though 👍
There is brand new or Squatch new…Prefer Squatch method 👍🏻🤩🤓
It looks a thousand times better than it did when it left the factory ,a show tractor indeed
Given how they were painted at the factory, I suspect your paint is as good or better! And having seen the picture in that book of the painting, I think you are about factory correct minus the water overspray catch! Great work and exposition!
so enjoyable seeing the parts being refitted!
Looks really good!
Good to see some progress on the tractor
great stuff toby.....heat index in alabama was 118 today
Ditzhlers,(spelling ) fastcut ,it is a polish that will take out the orange peel, 🍊 if it is still around, we used it on our cars back in the 70s ,
Your attention to detail is second to none....if it aint broke..don't fix it
Great video!!! Nice progress on the H… thx for sharing!!!
YAY! YAY! YAY!
Looking so nice Tobie
Lookin sweet!
Great video, looks good 👍
Hey Squatch. If you only have a small amount of paint, it's probably a good idea not to risk sanding enough to get rid of the orange peel and then have to paint the parts in Minneapolis-Moline color because you ran out. 😂
Seriously though, you can still keep an eye out for the right, correct, and proper color to show up on the market again and then remove and repaint any parts that make the left one 👁 twitch too much when you look at them. You take good enough care of your equipment that you probably don't need to worry about sun fading for a while.
Keep up the good work, and "Hi" to Senior.
Question: As a working farm tractor, how important are the looks, vs the preservation of the steel? (One idea.)
(Idea 2). I came to grips on my paint project last year, painting the roof and hood of my mid 90's daily driver Volvo station wagon (worth $325 by kbb standard), do orange peels (bugs and 1 run) really matter? I do like oranges and am a bit obsessive, but spraying, in a Red-Green-Show contrived environment, my family convinced me to stop and sleep at night, as no rust would start (and the finish looked way better than previous). I would say, it is ok...........for now.
BTW, this was the first paint project of this nature in my life. I keep thinking about all the HarborF tools I purchased, oh well.
Awesome job
Hey Toby,,,great to see the H getting some love.
She is looking SHARP!!!
Haha, knowing you now for years I feel certain that you will not be sleeping well until hood is resprayed. For anyone else it is 100%
I have a 1939 H that runs.
Someone rebuilt the engine in the 80s and did a good job.
Talking about “good paint”, we had the exterior of our condo repainted, didn’t use the garage door for a few days, and when I finally did the drive gear sheared off the opener because the paint stuck so hard 😊
I'd be willing to bet that more than a few tractors left the factory with orange peel in the paint, so that lends itself to authenticity.
Tractor sure does look good, right decision on wet sanding.