Bolt Action Build: Part 3 - How to Mount a Scope
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- čas přidán 26. 12. 2023
- Join Caleb from Brownells in the third installment of our Bolt Action Rifle Build Series. In this episode, we'll go over how to properly mount an optic.
What You'll Learn:
-We start by covering a few different types of bases, including the integral base like the one found on the Aero Precision SOLUS action, and other options available for bolt action receivers.
-Personal preference plays a big role here. We discuss the importance of selecting quality rings and use TPS Rings as an example - a solid, mid-range option that's neither too expensive nor too cheap.
-Step-by-step instructions on leveling the rifle using tools like the Real Avid Master Gun Workstation, ensuring the scope is level for accurate adjustments, and tips on achieving the perfect eye relief.
-Importance of a level firearm and scope for true vertical and horizontal adjustments.
-Detailed walkthrough of attaching and adjusting the scope rings and optic.
-Insights into the technical aspects of mounting an optic, ensuring both functionality and aesthetics. - Jak na to + styl
Thanks for putting this series together. I particularly appreciated the Savage barrel nut installation. (in Part 2 if anyone is looking for it)
When working with rings, mark the top to the base so that when you put the tops back on, the top goes back on to the same base in the same exact orientation.
I will always make sure the rings are pushed forward against the mount before torquing them to spec.
Roger that.
Word
Good video. Pushing the rings forward is the only thing I think he missed.
I would also torque the ring caps before the ring bases.
Well done as usual Caleb!
You can also use a set of calipers to level that bottom of the scope to the rails. Use gentle pressure with the inside jaws. And you can measure both sides and get an accurate reading if you want to get that particular.
I never thought about using the bottom flat of the scope to level from! Thanks!!!!
Thanks Kaleb. I now have a few things I need to change when mounting scopes. JimE
Great stuff! Ty..
Ive had good success using the Arisaka scope leveler.
Talk about the timing. I am mounting a scope in the next week, to my Bergara. Thanks for your insight.
Plumb bob method is simple and easy. Just need a flash light and a weighted string hanging from the ceiling. CZcams has a lot of videos.
Great tutorial as always. Leveling the scope it critical. I use gauge blocks between the rail and the bottom square of the scope and use a touch of low strength loctite on the fasteners.
I agree with your scope leveling theory, I have learned to think of it as getting concentric with be rifle Bore for lack of better terms.
I've always leveled my scopes with the top cap. I never really thought about it being on threads and isn't level with the reticle. It does make sense
You can also use a collimator bore sighter (the kind that attaches to the bore and presents a grid in front of the scope) to level the scope. Then after final torquing of the mounting screws you are set to perform a rough bore sighting before hitting the range.
Badger Ordinance has a handy but expensive device for leveling scopes. I fashioned my own version of the device with a granite tile three bolts with threaded rod couplers to use as leveling feet and a short, inexpensive picatinny rail. All the components could be epoxied to the tile to make a permanent tool. If you haven’t seen the Badger device that probably doesn’t make much sense. If you look it up and see how it works, it will probably be an apparent how a similar device could be made out of the mentioned components. Keep in mind that most rails for mounting scopes have some angle built in, usually 20 MOA. One of those can still be used. Just keep in mind that it won’t be level on that axis unless you level off the rail. It doesn’t necessarily need to be level on that axis as long as the axis that is perpendicular to the scope is level. Having a rail with no angle built in is simpler.
I use an Arisaka scope leveler but I have used some cheapo bubble levels to mount a scope. Mr. Potterfield on his midway USA videos shows how he laps scope rings when mounting a scope. Also,on engine builds they'll align hone the crank bearing journals with the caps torqued down before they align hone because they will take on an oblong shape which messes up the bearing tolerances. I guess the same thing applies for scope ring mounts
Last year, a relative bought a new rifle and scope, which was duly mounted at the store with a Weaver one-piece base and rings. When we attempted to zero it at the range, it was hitting almost 2 feet left at 100 yards. With windage cranked fully to the right, the best we could get was 5 inches left. I took the rifle home and ordered Redfield-style two piece bases and rings (from Brownell's, by the way) and junked the Weavers. I was able to get the rifle to hit point of aim with no trouble. Sometimes, for whatever reason, things are not quite right from the factory, and you need that extra margin that a two-piece system gives you.
also how about using a plumb bob on a wall and shining a light through to level reticle
The only way to make sure the crosshairs are perfectly level is to look at a level through the scope (before you tighten the scope screws). My kitchen table in exactly 25 yds. from my back fence so I lean my 5 ft. long level against the fence and get it level. Then I look the level through the scope and adjust the scope so it the crosshairs lines up with the level. I usually tape a small red ball to the top of the level so I can boresight at the same time. I've been doing it this way for over 20 years and had had great results.
Same process as using plumb bob only you are using a horizontal reference instead of a vertical one.
I didn’t see but did you list prices you were able to build that rifle at. That was a cool video. Nice work.
The guy from Hawkins Precision took several top named brand scopes, middle brand scopes and lower brand scopes and tested them for turret level and they were all level. With todays CNC technology getting things level is not a problem. Also Fix-it-Stix has a tool called the scope jack, easiest way to level a scope with a 1914 Pic rail.
There are no less than 7 modern scopes in the studio and only 1 has a level turret. Two are from the same mid-high end manufacturer and one is the level one, the serial numbers are close as well. This is an example but Steve and Caleb have been observing similar for years.
I wonder if Fix It Sticks Scope Jack could replace most of the steps required. Don't know how accurate it would be, though, but it looks like it could be just the thing to use, especially since you use the bottom of the turrets anyway and what you achieving is making it parallel to pic rail
The scope jack is what I used on two of my rifles and it worked perfectly.
I think she should do a scope mounting system that's on a hunting rifle with Leopold brings and mounts or standard mounts, not Weaver mounts or picatinny mounts
I really think this was a little over complicated good scope levels work great and will save you time and guess work. I’m a gunsmith and have worked in sport shops on sale weekend’s. I would never keep up using this method, but good mounting levels and a good torque screwdriver. I have a two step method to check and recheck that’s quick and easy. I’m very fussy about my work because my name is connected to what I do. I’ve never had a complaint other than the occasional person who doesn’t shoulder the rifle properly and says they think the scope isn’t level. I normally take that person out back and put the levels on his rifle and scope and show them it is.
Caleb, do you ever go up to SureShot range and shoot a bit further?
You forgot to lap the rings and apply lok tite! Great video for beginners and novices, being level is absolutely crucial especially at longer ranges
Lapping aluminum rings?
@@WayStedYou yes, they are not perfect from the factory
@@THERESISTANCE762 Most scope rings are perfect from the factory as we have newer technology to do that with CNC.
@@davidwarren3433 I doubt it
I torque all screws and knobs to snug.
i saw you level gun elevation and windage (up, down and cant. does it really matter if rifle is pointing up or down as long as it is level cant?
also what about levels that attach to barrel to set up. do they work or move around
hope i am clear
So you could tape a level to the bottom of the scope?
Any advice for a guy who doesn't have all the vices and straight edges and levels?
What about an external level to make sure whole setup is level before pulling the trigger? If the whole setup and/or your lines on the target paper is not level wouldn't it make the zero process kinda invalid? Also en external level visible to shooter while shouldering the rifle enables one to establish good habits to avoid excessive tilting while shouldering in the field.
One day one manufacturer will come up with a scope with an internal bubble level... Wouldn't it be nice? Or maybe there is such a thing?
I don’t know why people don’t use the Arisaka Optic Leveler as that tool is an absolute no brained to me.
I need a set of the fix it sticks
Love them
Just a point of semantic information, plumb bobs show a vertical line so sighting the vertical part of the crosshairs ensures the scope is not canted left or right. Basically think of a line that goes up and down.This is not level, which in the case of a scope runs front to back. Mixing plumb and level drives masons, carpenters etc. nuts. Good video by the way
How can we level the scope front and back? I cannot see any adjustment in the rings or on the scope body? I think once you level the action and the rings, the rest is making sure the scope is not canted. Front to back leveling is just another name for elevation adjustment which internal to the scope...
Making sure the scope is not canted ensures your elevation and windage adjustments clicks will be 'full value and will not effect each other. Otherwise your elevation and windage adjustments will not be independent of each other.
Of course, you will need an external bubble level on the scope while shooting for all of these things to make sense...
@@michaeldoe4805 you can, depending on need for elevation, shim inside one of the rings. Granted this is fairly rare but had and can be done. I think I remember some scope bases could be adjusted but am not sure.
What gun work station is that?
Well how did it shoot sub moa or not did you use factory ammo or hand loads?
Never mind
I imagine the same process applies for a semi-auto as well?
Correct
Does this need to be done to Eotech Holographic paired with G33 Magnifier?
Besides making sure it is solidly interfaced on the rail and pushed forward in the rail slot, nothing else in this video needs to be done for an EOTech
I would just put some blue loctite on the 8 tube screws.
Gunsmiths and scope manufactuers recommend no lock-tite on the tube screws. It causes over torque.
Does lapping the rings help?
I thought he was going to include that in this video. I could be wrong, but when he said that the rings can move the scope when tightening down the screws, lapping will help eliminate that, correct?
You can do that if you want but I don't think it's necessary
More or less a thing of the past. Quality rings rarely need lapping and can actually damage aluminum rings if lapped through their anodizing. No negative in checking alignment but if you are using CNC rings and installing them properly, rarely do I see an issue. Another note: it’s really a moot point with most aluminum anyway, the torque applied by fasteners distorts them enough to negate most any “lapping” done anyway. Lapping was necessary on older steel rings made with machining not as precision as is available today.
My two cents.
The scope makers tell you what the correct eye relief is for their scopes are so there's no reason to guess.
Correct, do you use the eye relief at highest magnification when setting your scope? Or do you pick the middle range? Just curious.
I've never seen a scope maker recommend a particular magnification.
Gravity is a lie! What makes your plumb bob work is density. 🤔🤯
10:00 is it sort of a joke with poker face or I misunderstood you? Because you need no harmonics - obviously if you tighten your tubular rings over non-tubular parts of the scope you are de-facto creating zero contact surface at that ring. And if scope moves even a little bit in wrong direction, it can vibrate in that ring or be a little bit bent to any side by some pressure.
Why did only level the rifle/rail along its length? Shouldn’t you level it across its width? Across its rail??
Leveling across The width of the base/rail will determine if the horizontal cross hair is level.
Because if you are using say a 20moa rail/ base, the rifle won’t be “level”. If you “level” a 20 moa base/rail the rifle will be pointed very so slightly upward.
Being level on the side to side axis is what matters as well as the reticle being g level. The 20moa cant in the rail does not matter the line that the reticle and the center of the barrel need to intersect at some point and that will happen through scope adjustment both lines are not parralel
There isn't any need to level that way
That's cool now spray paint it....
Nice but that stock is not good looking to me. Its the butt part that is ugly in my opinion...rest is ok.
I think that might be where the term “butt ugly” comes from.
Your explanation of the adjustments being at an angle aren't really correct, if a scope is slightly off, you're gonna hold the rifle a little off and level the scope. You'll notice the reticle and fix it on the fly. The bigger issue is your barrel is not going to be perfectly under the scope
That's explained in the other video mentioned in more detail.
All of that leveling stuff is not needed, the only thing is that the scope is parallel, with the rifle. Easily done without all of that special stuff.
Leveled scope is absolute necessary when you are shooting long range
@@TacoTory556 it's the relationship to the gun, not being level with the earth. Or something else
@@algoneby so how do you do that?
The rifle's scope mount has a flat spot parallel to the rifle, the scope has a flat spot on the bottom. Line then up, and they are true to each other. While the scope is still a little loose, Using a flat ruler, or some other object that is flat, and square, put between them, and twist. They are now in perfect relationship to each other. How many millions of rifle scopes do you suppose were mounted without a level ? I have done this many many times. Eyeballing it can work too. Ask me for tips on bore sighting a rifle at home, before going to the range.@@TuttleScott
@@TacoTory556He’s speaking about specifically having the flat bottom of the scope parallel to the flat top of the rail so the scope’s “guts” drive the erector assembly perfectly perpendicular to the top of the rifle when dialing elevation.
Probably the best way to mount an optic you intend to dial for range.
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