Fixing a Sloppy Shifter (& Oil leak I created) Volvo 940 Turbo
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- čas přidán 16. 04. 2022
- I replace the automatic shift mechanism rubber bushes on the 945 Turbo wagon and also fix a big oil leak I caused when working on the engine recently.
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#volvo #oilleak #bodge - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Having no Knowledge about engines etc. ,I will comment and appreciate the humble N honest attitude. Keep up the good work with the old Ladies
Thanks man, I appreciate it!
Somehow your channel dropped of my radar. Now I have a couple of months of catching up to do :) Good to see you're still going strong! Keep on keeping on
Thanks, I appreciate it!
I wouldn't worry about the other half of that seal, it will most likely remain somewhere in the sump. Remember those old hardened hushers you found in the valvetrain? Parts of those also tend to end up on the bottom of the sump, there's no way they can make it past the strainer of the oil pick up tube so no worries. Good results with the shifter as well!
That's a very good point, that's made me feel alot better 😄 Thanks
Hi Sledge, you know that I know nothing about cars as I don't even drive! However I watch all your videos as if my life depended on them. So interesting plus Sylvia is now my fav so can't wait to see her rise like a phoenix.
Thanks 😃 I'm glad you like her, loads more content still to come!
You can put few washers between the wastegate-clock itself and the turbo to increase the boost, makes it more springloaded, cheapest way and wont give you boost-creep, Preferably is the one's with threads on the wastegate-arm, which you should have originally if you have the fullpressureturbo engine setup, which build 0.65 bar boost. If you tighten and shorten the threaded arm it will make you boost more :-)
That movement is usually down to a slightly warped pulley, great result with the shifter bushes fella.
That's a good point, I wish I had've watched the belt running before I took it apart!
The work on the head can't impact the boost. It can be that having replaced some vacuum lines makes the wastegate actuator function again as intented (with a vacuum leak you would build more boost). So I would install a boost controller (preferably electronic) and give it some more. It has a fresh head gasket, so a couple of PSI shouldn't hurt, if you want a big increase you would first need a chip for it.
Thanks, that's good to know. You make a great point about it boosting incorrectly before, someone else did mention that to me. I think a manual boost controller is the next step!
I found half of one of those o-rings in the oil pickup screen of the junkyard b230 I rebuilt. you probably put the timing belt back on not straight or pushed it in with your crowbar or sm, it's not a big deal your belt isn't going to fly off, just try re-tensioning and adjusting it.
Oh thanks, wasn't blocking too much of it was it? A friend sent me a picture of a b230 one and the actual hole wasn't much bigger than a small coin. And I'll try that, thanks again 👍
My serpentine belt on my Holden Statesman, which is open to the environment, and can been seen when I open the bonnet, has always had a sideways slight movement. I replaced the two idler pulleys and tensioner pully and water pump when I replaced the belt at 300,000 Klm and twenty years . The movement is still there. So I surmise it is just a condition of a belt that is a fair length .
Thanks mate, that makes me feel better. I'll try refitting the belt and giving everything a once over, if it's still the same I'll forget about it
Love a statesman btw, I'll never forget the first time I saw one, it had whitewall tyres 🤤
No worries on the wobble belt. Olmost every car has it
Thanks mate!
a tip I usually do to check for vacuum leakage is to plug the pressure hose from the turbo with a spray can lid then I take one of the connections on the intake and push in compressed air from the compressor up to a 1 bar. if they are not tight, they are easy to hear where they are leaking. if you have a golden color on your ignition ecu, they are very easy to change the chip if you want to scare up with more charging pressure ;) fuel ecu I think everyone has so you can change the chip in
Thanks for the info, that's super helpful!!
I’m watching this while I have some lunch halfway though my head gasket job…. I’m glad I did!
I know I need to do the turbo return line, so I’m hoping with the head off I’ll have more access. On a LHD car you don’t have the brake booster and steering gear all the way 🤣
Are we going to see a video on it mate? 😃
No to the video… it’s taken me two days just do the work, adding video into the mix would take too much time 😂
@@PhilMakesThings haha I know that struggle
It’s very real…. but I’m glad you’re making them, you seem to know what you’re doing. I’m a hobbiest woodworker… with an old Volvo. Looking forward to your lack of boost investigation, mines doing the same. Less Swedish Boost Mafia, more like a vicar taking a leisurely drive with nowhere to be until later.
@@PhilMakesThings haha 🤣 sounds like my 740, I don't mind it though, I use that car around the city and it keeps me sedated
We all know that brake nipple cover Bush is staying in there! 🤣 Seriously though great work. Don't worry about that Bush, oil pickup screen will stop it 👍
I think you enjoy to watch the bodge jobs because you can't get away with it, even if you could, you'd lie awake at night :D Thanks bro
Hey buddy came across your video by chance, I'm not really a Volvo guy more into my Vauxhall's but I love channels like this where you're learning as you're doing things. I'd love to learn more about your story and background so I'm probably going to binge your other vids now, think you've gained a subscriber.
Thanks mate! I did do one video on an Opel Zafira A, if you're into those 😃
I just did the the same seal replacement with the turbo oil return on my redblock. I wouldn’t worry about it. The last person to have worked on mine had just shoved some sort of epoxy and other sealant on the tube and block. I’m sure some of it made it’s way into the block at some point. It’s running fine and has been for a couple weeks now.
Nice! Fingers crossed it stays that way, i'm hoping it will make an appearance on the next oil change :D
Enjoyed the video. Good luck and enjoy cleaning it! 12:18 Škoda Felicia 😃👌🏻
Haha I was about to say well spotted but you couldn't miss that! :D Thanks mate
@14:26 0 to 60 in 8.6 is commendable and about 130.49 mph is really not bad. Those figures are for the MT version but it shouldn't be much different.
Great job. I can watch this all day 😀👍🏻
Thanks Frank, sadly I can't upload videos that long, I think I've still got DDR internet cables, this video took a whole night to upload!
@@Involvod 😂😂
My 1991 Volvo 740 Turbo has piston slap & a bit of engine knock has almost 300,000km Piston slap with red block is common. But squirter block in 940 basically eliminates piston.
It's a shame I missed out on this one being a squirter block by a matter of months! But like you say, slap is common and it will keep running!
Had the gearbox selector issue on my 240 recently, I needed to get it fixed as I'm not mechanically minded, good to see what they may have done to fix mine. The part was hard to find. Thanks as always for your videos
Thanks! From reading the comments it seems alot of people have recently had to do it!
Hey Sledge, nice to see turbobrick content, well done on the shifter. Safe travels my friend!😉
Thanks mate! You too
The reason of non working speedometer could be a broken wire off the sensor on the rear axle.
Thanks, i'm going to have a good look at them then start testing the sensor. I hope it is the wires that would be a nice and much cheaper fix eh!
Yes, checked wire and even the connectors in 1st instance.
Good way to get those bushings to slide in easily is to let them soak in hot water for a couple minutes. It makes them nice and pliable making it a much easier job to get them installed. As for the lack of boost, double check all your work to see if any hoses or clamps are loose. Also check that drain on the bottom of the intercooler and make sure the plug it snugged down. I'm sure those old hoses are letting some boost out as well. My 745t is pretty quick but I also have a factory turbo upgrade I rebuilt along with do88 silicone hoses plus straight pipe exhaust after the cat. I also highly suggest putting new fuel injector seals on as well because that is the number one reason why people burn these cars down. Those old seals are flattened out, brittle and a fire waiting to happen. I carry a fire extinguisher around at all times when driving my old bricks. Cheers ✌😎
Thanks man, someone commented that in the video when I first found the issue, the problem is I have no power or water at the garage :D But I agree it would be the best approach. I didn't know about the injector seals, thanks for the heads up! A fire extinguisher is always a good idea in a classic car i've had one go up in flames before...
@@Involvod I'm sure you could get some water boiling if you get that exhaust manifold glowing red 😂
The Sylvia Saga! Awesome work on the shifter, one more thing to check off the list! Good advice on the timing belt as well, I’ll have to remember that. 😉
I agree that the turbo wastegate may just be working more smoothly now, making the boost less noticeable when it starts kicking in. Just a guess though. 😉
All the best on the project, she’s coming along great!
Thanks mate, that seems the most logical reason, time for a manual boost controller!
Good stuff as always! Nice job with the bushings!
Thanks Chief!
Nice video.
Definitely look at wiring connecting the speedometer in 1st instance.
Thanks! I will do 🙂
@@Involvod 💚
The other half of the seal will probably remain in the sump and it may flush out next time. As for the belt; I've had the same after new pulleys, belts, everything and it sometimes even squeels when the engine is cold. Redid the tensioner, bought another new belt: same result. So my conclusion is, sometimes you won't get a perfectly running belt.
Thanks mate that's good to know! I'm hoping the seal will make an appearance next time 😄
Seems alot of people here have had the same experience too
Lol remember when I did my timing belt and I totally forgot to readjust it after 600ish miles. Only just done it 7000 miles later lol
Haha was yours loose too?
@@Involvod haha yeah she was surprised it didn’t jump time
I just tightened mine last week - 75,,000 kilometers after the belt was put on. Oops! Lol
@@bobjohnson1587 🤣🤣🤣
Love your video's mate, keep them coming !
Thanks mate! Will do 😃
Perhaps the waste gate actuator needs to be adjusted slightly to open the waste gate a little later? The problem with the 740/940 boost gauge is it doesn’t tell you actual pressure. Perhaps hook up a boost gauge to it and see what boost pressure you are actually getting. Also I am not 100% sure but don’t some of those B230FT systems have a solenoid that actuates to bleed off a little waste gate pressure? I think Volvo called it turbo + , not to be confused with +T.
Thanks for the info! I was thinking about fitting a manual boost controller (after double checking everything is in order) and seeing what happens then 🤞
The half o ring should be OK as you have the oil pickup mesh then the oil filter before the engine is pumped round. As for belt wobble I guess it's either a slightly bent pulley or when you put one of the pulleys back on it didn't seat properly - maybe double check all pulley bolts are torqued up correctly. Gear shift looks so much better. Increasing the compression ratio might not be great for a turbo engine as the knock sensor - if it has one - might be limiting boost but I would guess a leaking pipe. Also you can tweak the boost by adjusting the wastegate actuator length a little or adding a bleed valve into wastegate line :-).
Thanks Ched, that's a good point, it does have a knock sensor. I was planning to buy a manual boost controller, not sure how the German inspectors will feel about it though so might have to undo it during test time
@@Involvod I used to have a manual boost controller on my mk2 Golf GTi (Turbo Technics conversion) and then on my T5. They work well but adjust slowly a little at a time 😁. I doubt you would find a TUV approved one 🤣
I wouldn't worry about the seal. Funny I just did one of the shifter bushings on our 93 244 yesterday. I am not too experienced w/ specific 940 items but it looks like that shifter bushing would be the 240 type. Looking forward to seeing your progress with this 940. It's coming along great.
Thanks! Yeah I think they use the same ones, and easily available which makes life easier!
My speedo started bouncing then stopped all together. Pulled the cluster and the back of the speedometer was caked in verdigris. Lots of contact cleaner and a toothbrush and it works again.
Or it’s the sensor on the rear diff, if the oil is really old and full of metal the sensor can’t see the tone ring, and no speed readout - that would put your abs light on too though.
Thanks, I had a look at the speedometer itself after this video, looks fine at a glance, I'll check/test the sensor next!
Did you take the clock out the binnacle pod? That’s where the corrosion was on mine, on the microchips that convert the pulse from the sensor to a speed reading.
@@PhilMakesThings yeah, the video will be up on Sunday, not to say it's not the issue though, someone is hopefully selling me a spare cluster with a working speedo so will swap it out if the sensor and wiring checks out
that seal's gonna stay in the sump. it physically cannot be picked up by the pump, as it can't pass through the filter basket. it'll be fine, there's absolutely no reason to panic
Thanks I appreciate it!
A piece of gasket that big in the sump won't get past the pickup screen, surely. I doubt it will cause any trouble in the engine.
Thanks 👍
That would have been my fix too as I don’t think that seal can be sucked into the oil inlet. You have some cog on that timing belt that is warped.
It will probably float won't it, whereas the pickup must sit quite far into the oil. And thanks, that seems to be the general consensus so far, hopefully the belt will last, I'll keep an eye on it, but at least it's a non interference motor 🙏
what is/are the mm socket size for the upper and lower bolts that release the head? or do I just need to release the upper set (ones that are just beneath the heat flaps)? Your vids are educational to say he least, and not without your subtle sense of humor.
Thanks :D I'm not sure what you mean by heat flaps?
@@Involvod The flat metal fan looking things that are just above the upper nuts (left side as you look at the engine), that are above the lower nuts, all that I have left wd-40'd for at least a week. Am about to propane torch all of them to loosen them, just want to get the mm socket size so I don't chew the nuts, making life really hell. I don't think this head has been replaced, or nuts removed since '92...
@@ericrose3877 ah I see, I think they are 13mm but I'm not 100% sure! The heating and spraying with penetrating fluid (a bit thinner than normal WD-40) really seemed to do the trick, I didn't put any hard force on them, just let them come when they were ready. Good luck with it 😎🤞
@@Involvod OK that was what I was looking for. 13-14, as long as it's metric . Rainy day today, I'm on it tomorrow,
I would be interested to see how you get on with changing the wheel bearing. I tried changing one on my 940 and ended up snapping the power bar trying to get the nut off, it was that bloody tight. Also the wheel bearing kit didn't come with a replacement nut even though Volvo recommend changing them with the bearing.
Wow that must have been tight, I'll be prepared then 😃
@@Involvod big rattle gun is what you need.
I enjoy your channel, keep up the good work 👍
What oil are you using? Looks very thin and runny. I always use 10w40. My brother had a 940 with 2 spun rod bearings. He used 20w60 temporarily, and that made it really quiet. This was extreme, but maybe 10w60 would help if you are using 10w40 already.
Also, for your speedometer not working: Check the connector on the differential. The wires often get corroded, the connector might not be seated all the way, or there is a chance that a ground wire in the boot is broken. The wires for the speed sensor, and fuel level sender all goes over the frame rail on the left side under the carpet and the goes over the left wheel arch. I believe they share the same ground, but I can't remember exactly.
If the connector is broken, it's the same as the brake fluid sensor, so you can easily get a replacement.
It's 10w40, Liqui Moly semi synthetic. That's amazing how the thick oil quietened it down and it still ran, what great engines!
Thanks for the tip that's super helpful! 👍
Hi! Big fan for Poland. You really inspired me to work on my 940. I’ve also got na issue with a sloppy shifter, Zf4Hp22, any chance for a part number for the bushings? Are there 3 of the same one only? Kind Regards Peter
Hey, thanks! They are the same one, it should be 381704 🙂
Jesus! Faster than lightning. Thank you!
Talk about 'Whoops!', Sledge. Last October I replaced the rubber bushings on the shift linkage on the AW70 transmission in my '90 740 GL. While under the car I noticed that the original overdrive solenoid was looking pretty rough so I ordered a replacement one. The other day I got around to installing it.
Unfortunately, while trying to remove the old solenoid one of the two bolts that hold it on snapped off. (I didn't even attempt to remove the other one.) There is now only one bolt holding the solenoid down. And it looks like the only way to drill the broken bolt out would be to remove the transmission from the car. Ouch! Any suggestions? Thanks!
Ah sorry to hear it! If it makes you feel any better I've heard it's a common thing to happen! I've not had any experience with it personally but I read about it a while back on the forums
How long has 5he 940 Turbo been parked, those rubber parts with time tend to crack,& break
It was parked up for about 1 year or so, but the rubber components in the engine bay are definitely starting to show their age!
Don't have any advice on the volvo but don't eat yellow snow that's the best I can offer 😉
CZcams (on desktop) gave me some auto responses to this comment, one of them was "Too late" :D
@@Involvod 🤢🤣🤣🤣🤣
when i first did my 240 timing belt the water pump blew its seal and shot coolant everywhere so i had to redo it. After redoing it the belt had a lot of travel and was loose kinda how yours was even with the tension tightened. I havent changed it and have driven that way just past 3000 miles with no issues.
Well at least if it does fail no serious engine damage will occur ':D
When you accelerate does air con start blow for legs even its positioned to forward & up? Is it changes theres a vacuum leak and turbo boost goes on ac controll, thats not good. And buy a new turbo and or new wastegate from ft engine. Is that 940 b230 ft or b230 fk
This one doesn't have A/C unfortunately! Thanks for the tip though. It's a B230FT, I always forget to mention that!
Ac or not but cabin air vents and heater control uses vacuum, so if boost moves those vents its useles boost. But on rare occations that might have all those things runned by small cable wire. Does this have heater core valve on engine bay on firewall near brake booster?
Oh I see, I'll check it out 👍
My 94 Volvo 940 will not go into drive when put in drive and won’t go in to park when in park it’s stuck in reverse so in park it try’s to go reverse and same as drive can you help me is it this issue you had in your car like do you think this could work for mine?
That sounds very strange, I would probably have a look underneath to make sure everything is still connected, maybe one of the linkages has disconnected?
@@Involvod ok thanks I’ll take a look I’m hoping It’s not to serious
I thought you wasnt suppose to use the auto 123 gears for casual driving? I was told its only for use when you have a trailer, or are going in a terrain thats tricky..snow, ice etc.. and your never supposed to go over 30km/h with it? hmm enligten me please :)) I have this on my BMW e23 but havent dared to us em.
I've not heard of it being an issue, but I might Google it to see if there's a reason not to do it
@@Involvod Cool, let me know what you find.
Приветствую дорогой друг, к сожалению я не знаю твоего имени(
Я так до конца и не понял что ты хочешь сделать с этой машиной кроме как подлатать техническую часть, но если тебе хочется сделать ее быстрой то над этим нужно поработать. На видео я увидел лишь (3:20 надеюсь временно) снят шток с "калитки" сброса избыточных выхлопных газов) но думаю ты поставил его на место, возможно потеря мощности происходит из за неполного закрытия этой круглой пластине "калитки" закрывающий ответвление в турбине, через которое в обход горячей крыльчатки при срабатывании клапана с штоком сбрасываются выхлопные газы из за достижения предела, установленного этим клапаном на другом конце штока. Твоя турбина как уже я ранее говорил - с моторов 95/96/97\98 годов b230GK и b230FK (заводская мощность обоих - 135 сил приближенная к поздним атмосферным двигателям 230FB), там ставилась митцубишевская турбинка, рассчитанная на давление 0.3 бара, по достижении которых калитка открывается и дальнейший буст невозможен. Конструктивно на этом раннем турбокирпиче ставился b230FT до 95 года и турбина там стояла изначально солиднее фирмы Garett, она и крупнее и коллектор там более серьезный, давление рассчитано 0.6 бар в стоковой версии 230FT(мощность с завода 165 сил) до 0.9-1.0 бар в версии FT+(клапан на другое давление сброса позже открывается рассчитан и другая прошивка в блоке управления двигателем).
То есть мощность твоего мотора сейчас изначально усечена практически до уровня бодрого "атмосферника", к тому же автомат ворует много момента на раскрутку гидроблока(плюс под автоматы ставились изначально короткие мосты с парой 3.9 или 4.1 против турбоверсий на механике 3.5 - 3.31 пара моста, в атмосферных версиях с механической коробкой передач обычно универсальный 3.73 пара мост), для тебя также будет неприятно узнать что мощность просаживается примерно на 2-3 лошадиный силы из за вискомуфты с вентиллятором охлаждения, его раскрутку производит мотор через помпу, советую добавить провода и реле, поставив электровентиллятор - его плюсы в том что он меньше и тебе будет удобнее доступ на фронтальную часть мотора где помпа, натяжитель и ремень, ты не получишь по рукам лопастями при заведенном моторе, повысится мощность двигателя на пару лошадок, да и помпа будет меньше изнашиваться без такой нагрузки.
Извини что много приходится тут писать, да и на русском, я стараюсь печатать, выстроив свои фразы так чтобы твой переводчик их корректнее перевел.
Так вот, кроме замены ворующего 10-12 сил автомата на механику придется заменять и мост с карданом, ставить более длинную пару 3.5, мой приятель нашел 3.73 и поставил на свою турбоверсию, но эта пара коротковата увы. Заменив вентиллятор с помпы на электрический ты получишь еще 2-3 силы плюс удобства что я написал выше. Кстати втулки автоматов возможно отличаются, на твоем шильдике я увидел модель айсина AW-71, у меня на американском вагоне стоял такой же с парой моста 3.9, так что у тебя скорее всего 3.9, есть еще Aisin AW-72 он ставился в основном на 740 с шестнадцатиклапанным b234 и мостом 4.1 самым коротким, может эта втулка не подошедшая отличается так как она не от AW - 71? Вроде как есть еще и AW-70, но самый крепкий из тех айсинов точно 72й, поэтому ставился на шестнари и турбо, турбошестнари.
Еще нюанс по мощности: на всех турбомоторах с завода ставилась голова 530 777(на раннем инжекторном b230F тоже 530, но механическая обработка 666 хуже, цифры возле термостата), в россии популярен тюнинг моторов с заменой 530 гбц 666 и 777 на 531 гбц с поздних атмосферных моторов b230FB, там каналы с завода лучше обработаны и мотору легче дышать, вдобавок вместо убогого заводского М вала в 530 666 на атмосферных и T вала на турбовых 530 777 в 531 голове стоит VX3 вал и он очень хорош особенно на раскрутке мотора на оборотах.
Так же есть с механических инжекторов 740 и ранних 940 в гбц с завода ставился очень злой вал V, он лучше VX3 тем что крутит хорошо и на низах и на верхах, VX3 только к верхнему диапазону оборотов хорошо открывает клапана. Сейчас у тебя скорее всего стоковый T вал слабый, слабая турбина, вискомуфта и автомат с короткой парой.
@@user-vl2nk6ys6o Hey, my name is Sledge! I did attach the rod at 3:20, I removed it to be able to remove the oil return pipe :) I appreciate the the long message, some very useful information, thank you!
I did hear that the electric fan was a popular modification. I plan to increase the performance on this car, but nothing too crazy, the next thing I wanted to try is a manual boost controller. Apart from that it'll stay mostly standard. I can't afford to build a high performance 940, plus I would rather use that money to save more Volvos! :D
@@Involvod Очень приятно Sledge, не слышал если честно такого немецкого имени) 30лет, меня зовут Сергей (латинское Sergius, древнее римское имя) я из небольшого городка под Смоленском, откуда родом Михаил Егоров, водрузивший знамя над Рейхстагом, а неподалеку городок где родился первый космонавт Юрий Гагарин).
Свою вольво изначально брал из за того что из старых универсалов самый вместительный, очень увлекся этой маркой. Самый мощный турбовый 945 у меня 96 года на b230FK - экологичная модификация турбодвигателя для европы и японии, мой пригнан из Великобритании, но из за левого руля прожил там год и отправился в Британское посольство в Москву в 1997м. С завода там стояла механическая коробка передач m90, ставилась с 93 года на замену m46, по сути переделанный шведами немецкий getrag 220, имеет двухмассовый маховик с сцеплением без пружин, нет страховки вытягивания штока задней передачи, сама передача находится вниз от 5й. Эта коробка самая мощная что могла ставиться на красные блоки моторов вольво, ранние версии до 96 года страдали недоработкой 3й передачи.
Так же с завода стоял электровентиллятор, я поставил доработанную фрезами по каналам 530 голову, но нашел самый злой V вал с механического впрыска b230E(есть еще один хороший вал кроме V, vx3 но у него нет прорези вроде под трамблер и он ставился на карбюраторы вроде как, это A вал - если найдешь какой то из них - это будет хороший и недорогой тюнинг помимо перехода на электровентиллятор). Так же я поставил себе от b230FT+ турбину с коллектором фирмы Garett под 1 бар и заказал шестерню Верньера(двухсоставная, при ослаблении удерживающих болтов можно докрутить ее на распределительном валу, выставляя угол зажигания и снова притягивать болтами), поставил себе мост 3.31 с самоблоком и золотые мозги с улучшенной прошивкой.
То есть у меня доработанная конфигурация более лучшего позднего блока с 95 годов с маслофорсунками и меньшей выработкой, механическая кпп, электровентиллятор, прошивка под большую турбину 1 бар и распределительный вал с хорошим перекрытием. Если что то могу подсказать для тебя - все что знаю выложу, рассматривая твои видео если я не надоем своими длинными посланиями
@@user-vl2nk6ys6o I'm from the UK originally, but it's not much of an English name either :D
Great work with your car, it sounds like a good one. I also want to swap an M90 into this car! If I have any technical questions I know who to ask! :)
@@Involvod Хорошо, что могу подсказать - я к твоим услугам Sledge! m90 более выносливая коробка передач, в отличии от м47 у нее в колоколе и на тыльной заглушке имеются специальные стальные конусные кольца, куда вставляются валы передач, их можно снять и поменять и они препятствуют выточке, у м47 с возрастом или от неблагоприятной эксплуатации валы передач могут разбивать эти посадочные места в колоколе и задней заглушке и будут шататься( так же маховик под м90 с завода шел двухмассовый из двух скрепленных половин, амортизированных пружинами относительно друг друга - он и принимает на себя первоначальную амортизацию момента с двигателя, вместо пружин на диске сцеплений м46-47, зато диск сцепления м90 без пружин. У нас распространен тюнинг, когда вместо толстого маховика двухмассового(он не выдерживает резкое трогание с места регулярное и разрушается) ставят проточенный маховик от м47 одномассовый со сточенными бортами в ровную плоскость, а на него ставят либо 228мм сцепление от Vovlo 850 атмосферных либо 240мм 850R и корзины от них же, у меня как раз такая.
Чтож, тогда я буду восстанавливать своего турбо британца вспоминая о тебе, Следже
Omg at that cap too 😑
Wouldn't see you wearing that would we? 🤣
@@Involvod I was expecting some Hay Bails in the back when the Flat Cap made an appearance !
(My Volvo came froma Chicken Farm so I comment with respect and not sarcasm ! ❤)
No need to worry. That part of that seal is not nearly big enough to present any problem for the oil pickup strainer.
As for replacing that seal, if Volvo doesn't have it in stock you could go to an airconditioning service point. Those places often have a large collection of seals that are actually of better quality then the OEM seals (oil , heat resistance).
Good catch on that cambelt tension. (i hope you did check that it hadn't jumped a tooth)
Even if it had jumped off that wouldn't have been dramatic because the turbo B230 is NON-interference = no valve damage.
Bushings: nice fix! I'd leave it as is.
Speedo: cleanflametrap.com/speedo7.html
www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/ElectricalSpeedometerRepair.htm
Boost: No, the head skim is not of any influence on any boost related problem.
If it has a Mitsubushi 13C turbo it might have a leaking CBV membrane. It's under that chrome cap: 3x 10mm bolts to get it off. If that membrane leaks that leak is basically a short circuit of boosted air back into the intake.
2nd potential cause of lack of boost can be a cracked wastegate port. 13C turbo's are prone to that. You can just live with it. The only noticeable effect will be a later (higher rpm) onset of boost.
3rd potential cause: leaking intercooler. But that would also cause a check engine light because the intake would lose already metered air.
4th potential cause: leaking exhaust manifold (1990+ manifold has a tendency to crack on the underside, you can have it brazed.)
Could also be a blown exh. manifold gasket. But you would hear that clearly.
Thanks for the tips man that's a huge help!