How to Rebuild / Reseal a Johnson 9.5 HP Lower Unit - Part 2
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- čas přidán 1. 02. 2017
- Water Pump Kit Reference Chart: everythingoutboards.com/brp/wa...
Gearcase Seal Kit Chart: www.everythingoutboards.com/br...
Water Pump Impeller: amzn.to/2rxX7gr
1958-1967 Seal Kit: amzn.to/2sFvm5y
1967-1973 Seal Kit: amzn.to/2sw9wAZ
Gasket Sealing Compound: amzn.to/2s7PfRE
Permatex #2: amzn.to/2rol59K
Anti-seize: amzn.to/2sHa8UM
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Thank you for such an informative and detailed video. I’m working on a 1967 9.5 Johnson. I’ll be referring back to these series videos.
6:40 If you rotate the impeller housing to seat the impeller - you want to go COUNTER clockwise -- otherwise your impeller fins will start out backwards, which cannot be healthy. Also, since the gearcase cover screws are inside the perimeter of the spaghetti seal, it makes sense to put some type of sealant on the juncture where the screwheads seat on the case. Otherwise, as always, super job.
Thank you for the epic videos on rebuilding the lower unit on my Johnson 9.5. Awesome!!
Nice job Brandon, I just acquired a 1978 9.9 Johnson and needed a refresher course. Very clean. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you for posting. Just picked up a 1968 9.5HP....digging in to it now and these vids are awesome!!!
Awesome videos....I have a '69 Johnson 9.5. On that motor the 4 bolt holes for the impeller assembly don't go all the way through....so I was not able to insert a screw from the bottom to keep everything aligned. It still wasn't too bad to get everything lined up. Thanks for taking the time to make a great set of videos!
Great gouge on the upside-down screw to hold the water pump plate. Also never thought of marking the gear set with a sharpie to ease pin alignment. Great stuff.
Excellent video, You have a voice that is easy to listen too.
Thanks!
Could pass for Will Forte.
Thanks so much for your videos! Very helpful.
Would love to see a video on how you built your fabulous, rotating lower unit holder. Great design!
nice pro job on the vid....been a mechanic light and hvy...for 42 yr...your little adds...ie cleaning out the threads,building the jig from the wp housing,silicone on the backer plate..even when the destruction's did not say so....your a top hand mr brandon...thks...now i am ready to rebuild the lower unit on my 9.5 evinrude....hoo ya!!
Very well done! dare I say expertly done! I am an antiseize aholic too! you certainly insure each step is properly done prior to the next step. I am sure the next time this lower unit needs to come apart someone will how how well it did!
Great job, for anyone doing this themselves just a note, while you have the impeller cover in hand flip it over there is a tiny pin hole near the center of this cover if you use a thin wire you should be able to clear this hole out it's a vent hole, I just did two of these water pumps and both had the pin hole completely clogged with debris, I hope this helps. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
Thanks for sharing, great professional work. Keep it up
you helped me a ton with my 64 9.5. thanks!
Excellent video learned a lot. Thanks for sharing.
Brandon,
Great video. Thank you so much.
When I look at the parts view, it looks like they used to have a seal on the top of the impeller housing. It states that it's no longer available. Does that mean it doesn't need one? (I didn't see one in the video either). My impeller seems to work in the tank test, but it's not delivering water up to the cylinder head. Passage seems to be clear.
I'm doing a complete rebuild, per your video and will see how it is after.
Nice video, very detailed.. I wish you would show a situation that i feel is very common.. with the 4 flat head screws that hold the water pump.
mine were orginial 1964, they were toast the top of the heads just popped off before any pressure was applied.
I searched many you tubes and found only a handfull that dealt with sezied bolts.. these areas with ss bolts into aluminum are tuff if they have set for a long time...Im currently rebuilding mine now..
Well, I've thought about that, problems is I have so many parts motors, its quicker to just go out back and grab a new part than extracting a bolt.
Next time I come across one Ill get it out.
- My trick is just counter rotating drill bits though.
Did you ever post a video on how you got the prop shaft seals out?
Great video!! 30hp 50’s era would be appreciated to see
That was a very good video.
Rebuilding a salvaged Johnson 9.5 Outboard: Cost of new water pump impeller $14.99
Cost of gasket set: $27.40
Cost of a replacement Gearcase Head and Bushing $179.99
After two hours I did finally manage to find a way to remove the seal without destroying the gearcase head but it was close.
But thanks for the 'how to' on the other aspects of rebuilding the lower unit.
I was finally able to get the seal out by heating and bending the tip of a flat screw driver over so it could fit in under the bushing and be hammered closer to the edges of the seal.
You bought a new gearcase head?!
Also, I take it you havent seen the seal remove videos?
With 45 years of corrosion I guess I ought to consider myself lucky and be happy I did finally succeed?
The adaptation you made to the water pump housing to remove the lower piece did work like a charm.
Thanks.
Great series! Helped a lot, thank you! Was needing some advise on making the forward shift a little stiffer. Neutral and rev have a solid shift as to forward feels loose, like its going to slip. I’ve recently had the gear slip from forward back to neutral when in trying to open it up, thinking it was the clutch dog. Just changed out the c-dog, now trying to address the loose gear issue?? I’ve tried several different times to remove lower unit and re-install to no luck. Please help!!
Ever figure it out? My Johnson will shift from neutral to forward but I have to shift it back to reverse to get it to go neutral. And I can’t get it into reverse. I opened up the window and tried realigning the shift rod linkage but same thing. Just looks like shift rod isn’t moving down as much as it should when I shift back
Yo ! That was a great video on the lower unit rebuild. I have a pic set to pull all those old washers out they work great you should use them instead of the razor blade. But if that’s the only thing I can pick on think of hours Good your video is !!!!
I’m like this I’m redoing my bottom water seals on my 6 hp this helps haven’t done a small one before the first one I was going to do was a big 60 hp Johnson but it was old and I was a bit Worried about doing it because I didn’t want to crack the case and I need to be heated up to the pull the Prop shaft did not end up doing so it so this is a first for me
That black gasket makers so fregging usefull not necessarily to replace real gaskets or but to supplement them for me its more important than gasket compound Been working on some johnson and rudes gear cases(good engines! ) . Really easy to work on... oh great vid btw bud 👍
What’s the rod called that you used or what can I use to install the bushing seal back in?
Спасибо,очень много полезной информации.
Well done, really enjoyed your video. Altough, wish you could have showed the water test with a drill. Thanks
I thought of that too, but I didnt want to take the copper tube out for the demo.
I have a video coming out of the 15 HP test start, where I do just this.
do you know the part number for the 6 replacement bolts for the lower cover? someone put a lot of sealant, which got into the threads. I managed to get 5 of them out without major issues but one required "unconventional methods ". needless to say I can't reuse it.
thank you.
Are there any spots to put an anode on these old motors which didn't come with one stock?
Thanks for the awesome video. When your finished with the lower unit rebuild, what gear oil do you suggest and how much? Do you have a video explaining that?
David Parzuchowski 90 weight
thanks a million. 1968 6hp cd-24 0wner I have a extension in lower unit Why? Recieved the motor from a older gent who is in bad health. I fish the White rive in Arkansas and hope this fixes my lower unit problem. Have a Blessed day
That how you used to buy a 20" motor. Extension =20" no extension =15".
What direction did you turn the drive shaft for forward? Clockwise or Counter Clock wise?
ok, did a dumb thing and removed my twist grip off my 1973 9.5 evinrude. to make matters worse, i then tilted the tiller into the up position and dropped my shaft out in the tiller. Not sure which way the rod goes back in since the gear is only 3/4 toothed. Would love a vid explain the interaction between the throddle linkage and shift linkage. THX...
Great Video thanks.
Thank you soo much. You just saved me $600.00.
Oh really?
Just got the quote 30 min. ago
I just used your video to service my Sportwin 9.5. Great video, thanks a lot! A question: after I was done, I placed the lower end in a pail of water and used my drill to spin the motor. No water came out of the hole in the top of the impeller housing. Thoughts?
found the reason ?
When I bought my 1985 20hp last year I should have demanded checking gear oil or lack of it I should say!The black tar like substance that resembled gear oil was a total of about an ounce or so.Was panicking of course even though when we ran it on the muffs it seemed ok and quiet.I did two changes and fills after that And ran it briefly and took it on good runs and have changed it three more times and no issues so far and no hunks of metal came out.Not sure why no oil and hope I got lucky.No oil was pouring out the seals.Would I know by sound of it if there were bad Gears and someone already drained metal hunks and gear oil out to hide it?Maybe it was drained and forgot to be refilled, which I am sure people have done.
excellent job showing how this is done. Will this apply to the evinrude sportwin 9.5 as well seeing how they are pretty much the same as the Johnson 9.5?
It sure will!
Really, any split gearcase is the same process - just with different parts.
Brandon's Garage... Awesome, I have an old sportwin 9.5 with a leaking prop seal.. drips a few drops of oil over time. I will probably go through the whole lower unit and replace all the seals and gaskets when I get around to it. I bought a 03 merc 15hp for a good price in the mean time. Btw, very detailed videos much appreciated, thanks for sharing the knowledge.
These 2 part videos really helped me with my rebuild. One question, your pivot pin went in easily, but I can't seem to get mine line up correctly. Any suggestions?
Just make sure its in neutral, usually they get pretty close.
In this video, you can see I help it into place with an awl:
czcams.com/video/tcAMsaSX5Ro/video.htmlm27s
Brandon did you make the shift shaft bushing installer or buy it. It looks easy enough to make.
Im sure it is, but I bought it from someone who made it.
But they can still be purchased from evinrude/brp
Brandon, I am in need of the 30 5/8" drive shaft for this motor. Do you happen to have one laying around that I could purchase?
I'm rebuilding an Evinrude 4hp 1971, and am finding your videos really helpful, thanks.
I have a question:
06:30 Did you just reverse the fins getting set? At first you rotated the driveshaft clockwise, which would cause the fins to bend and point towards the bottom of the screen. You stopped rotating the shaft, and instead rotated the impeller housing clockwise, which would of reversed the direction of the fins. Did you have to go back and reverse them again?
Thanks for these videos, they will be very handy when I service my Evinrude 9.5! I'm curious though, you rotated the impeller casing clockwise over the impeller, but doesn't the drive shaft and therefore impeller spin clockwise?
Not that it really matters if you do it the wrong way, as the impeller will just change shape when it is turned the right way.
I think the pump tips will wear quicker with the tips facing clockwise vs anticlockwise. The pumps that I have helped friends with was shaft clockwise making the blades on the impller anticlockwise upon reassembly.
@@trsmith581958 I think we are not talking on the same terms.
I am rebuilding 1968 20hp lower unit. What type of gasket sealer did you use on the lower unit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
3M 847 is the Sealant M called out in the manual.
If you dont want to spend the money/ordering time on it, youll have to find an oil proof sealant, something that would work in a differential.
Most (orange anyway) breaks down with the gearcase fluid.
Been following your videos.
I am currently working on a 1973 9.5, I am at the part of installing the lower into the motor.
I tested the shifting before I stuck it into motor and it worked good.
After I connected the shift rod I cannot shift into forward
Do you have any advice
Are you spinning the prop while attempting to shift?
Is the housing spun counter if the shaft is spun clockwise?
Great video... I've watched several of your videos and they're all very well done.... But.... If I'm not mistaken, the way you turned the impeller housing to get it to go down over the impeller would have caused the impeller fins to be turned the wrong way wouldn't it? Not trying to cause trouble, just wanted clarification. Shaft spins clockwise, but if you spin the housing you would need to turn it counter clockwise if I'm looking at it correctly.
I seen and thought the same
These OMC clamshell gearcases are some of the most difficult to get sealed up properly, even with new seals and orings. Keep in mind that the slightest leak is unacceptable, when oil leaks out, water leaks in. The OMC type M is expensive, might be cheaper to buy it from 3M, it is called 3M 847. The nice thing about this sealer is it dries immediately and is strong, so it is especially helpful keeping that spaghetti seal in place. The six retaining screws should actually have a little of the gasket sealer between the screw shoulder and the skeg to ensure the screws are sealed. These retaining screws are inside the spaghetti seal and could be a source of water intrusion. OMC never recommended the type M between the aluminum impeller hsg and SS plate because any excess sealer in this area will ooze into the impeller area and could affect its operation. Needless to say, a nice bead of the type M between the SS plate and gear housing is a must to avoid inlet air leaks into the pump. Be careful installing that impeller, you might get the vanes bent the wrong way which could ruin the new impeller. It is usually best to carefully install the impeller into the housing to ensure the vanes are properly oriented, then lower this assembly down over the key. Are you going to pressure test this unit before installing it on the engine? I like your method of rotating the upper seal hsg before removing it and sticking the water pump screw up from the bottom to keep everything aligned during assembly!
I did notice one thing about the impeller installation-when the water pump cover was installed over the impeller, it was rotated clockwise. This would bend the impeller blades in the wrong direction. If rotating the shaft was intended to seat the impeller correctly, then you would need to rotate the cover counter-clockwise to help the impeller seat properly.
Is there a thrust washer between the forward gear and the clutch dog? I have this gear case and I am reassembling mine and the parts diagram shows one in the manual but I don't have one. It did not appear that there was one on the front side of the dog in your video but it may not be shown. I just want to make sure I get it back together correctly.
Also, where can i get the bushing removal tool 304514? Thanks for the help! Great video.
Yeah, you need one on both the forward and reverse gear.
You can get it at boats.net
...and the thrust washer 0303361
but you can get than on ebay new or used for half price.
Cool, I already had one on order, so I'll wait to get it to re-assemble. How about where to get the bushing removal tool? I had a rod that fit the bill, but wasn't tapered so it ended up going straight through the hole eventually without dislodging he bushing. I will replace the bushing (now that I have probably ruined it and it still isn't out). I have a 25hp and a 9.5 so the tool will come in handy. Thanks for the quick response BTW.
just goto boats.net and search for 0304514 (need to use the 7-digit part number)
They may not ship outside the US though.
Found it, 7 digit part number did the trick. Shouldn't take long to get to Indiana. I'll have the 25HP sealed up and ready for duck season thanks to your video and feedback. Thanks again.
I found out that the forward gear had previously been replaced. Any knowledge on if they all require trust washers? This one has VERY little radius for a washer as the teeth for the gear go almost to prop shaft hole. I'm not overly worried about it as it has run for years for me without one, but curious. I had a hell of a time getting the original prop seal out of the gear head...
I've noticed in another video you put moly lube onto the sides of the top of the drive shaft, could I use any sort of grease or should I use only BRP Moly Lube?
Im sure anything will work.
Most of the time a waterpump kit comes with a tube of the stuff, so why not use it?
@@BrandonsGarage I agree however the seal kit I'd purchased didn't include any of it nor did the water pump impeller. Plus I hadn't even heard of any of this stuff until I had seen your video, much thanks. So I'm not even too sure what the heck it is.
What gear oil is use in a 1969 33hp skitwin?I drained it and it appears to be an automotive gear lube not the Quicksilver I am use to. Thanks
Electric shift?
Not electric. Thanks
what do you do if the upper part of the bottom bushing is scored up and has carved up the drive shaft? i might be able to replace the shaft but how do you replace the bushing? it looks as thou it is part of the housing. ive got a 1965 evinrude 9.5
Yeah, that happens.
2 options really
A) Send it!
B) Replace it.
@@BrandonsGarage or perhaps have a Machinist talk a look at it... idk lol
I have a 75 hp it seems to have a skip in it could it have a broken tooth in the lower end can you show how to take it apart. It's a johnson
What year?
I need help ordering the correct seal kit for mine. Please help
Model number of outboard?
Nice
Do you have a clip on reconnecting the lower unit. Also testing for the water pump.
Watch the 15 HP Rebuild - Test start video.
Same concept for testing.
Thank you.
My concern is how the water line is handled. Both coming off ang reinstalling. Thanks
great vid thanks but you didnt show when you put kick sleave into place that change the gear the little slot the it sets inyours was not in place
I always enjoy your videos Brandon!, i have a question, i saw the way you removed the shaft seal plate by bolting the plastic housing back on, i'm going to buy the bolts today and do it the same way as i'm going to replace the shaft seal , but is there a way to remove the plate with out removing the shift rod that seems to be in the way as i only have a small air leak on that shaft seal and i don't really want to open up the lower unit, your input is appreciated. Thanks!!
Well, if you are just changing the seal, you don't need to remove the plate. Just pull it out with the plate attached.
Excellent!! that's what i needed to know, so i can just pry the seal out with a screwdriver?
You can try?
Watch this video: czcams.com/video/MCXF-r6IAYM/video.html
Yeah those tools would be great to have for someone who works on these outboards on a daily basis like yourself, as for me, this is just my personal motor so i'll just take a chance on destroying the seal until it comes out. Thanks bud!!!!!
I know, I understand, thats why I started making DIY videos of these tools.
I just wanted to let you know even with the tools, its not easy. That seal is in there, it'll take some time but it'll go.
Great videos! I have a question about the gear shifter on my friends 1972 6hp Johnson. Could I get your email? I looked in your “about” and couldn’t find it. Thank you! Phil.
Hey, I just used this video to pull mine apart and get it together again (and working!) If you want to ask me I'll try to answer.
What brand sealant?
I have a 1967 6HP but cant tell the suffix. There are two seal kits. One for suffix D or S. How do i tell which seal kit i need? Thanks.
Well, one way is to measure the seal size, one is slightly larger.
However, it should be on the silver round plug on the powerhead.
@@BrandonsGarage Ah. I didn't know it was stamped on there. I appreciate the help. Kind regards. Mark.
i'm brazilian, can someone please prescribe what was said in this video so i can translate?
I like your video very much. I need to learn something about the engine. What cause the problem of the propeller doesn't spin while the motor is running sound good, but when you accelerate the throttle the propeller won't running, the gear housing has an oil, the pin is lock, pump is working, the exhause is properly, except the propeller. This motor engine is brand new I bough this from ebay. Can you tell me and give me an advice. I already contact the seller, but he suggested me, to check the bayonet if is not broken, or the to check the shaft. I told them. what I should open the engine, which still have warranty, he insisted to return and send it back to them, he just want me to help to do so what he wanted to solve the issue. I contact him many times. He avoided me to return back to him.
What kind of engine is this?
I need to replace the clutch dog, am I able to keep the lower unit attached and just remove the skeg and the gears or do I need to remove the entire lower unit?
Yeah, in theory you could.
Problem is I doubt you'll be able to without flipping the engine upside down.
Gravity is going to fight you otherwise.
Are the any negative side effects of turning the entire engine upside down with support so the entire weight of the engine isn't sitting on the hood?
If it was recently run, you'll have water pooled in the exhaust housing, if upside down, it may make its way into the pistons. Same with any debris (sand, etc) in the housing, it too may find its way into the engine.
If the carb has gas in it, it'll leak out everywhere.
is the sealant on the spin plate and bottom of water pump housing really necessary?? They don't do that from the factory and Ive never seen a water pump not pump as long as that tiny hole was clear. you know better than I i just dont want to ruin anything
Not supposed to be, no.
Our experience is quite opposite. Mine rarely pump if not sealed.
Thanks for the reply... better safe than sorry lol I will seal from now on
@@BrandonsGarage hello, great video very informative, thank you!! Liked and subbed!
Question: should that sealing compound be added EVERY time I open up the water pump (to replace the impeller)...? Or is it only necessary when you do a gear case seal replacement/rebuild such as the one you performed? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the videos definitely helps! Idk if you caught this yet but you ended up putting the impeller in the wrong way.
Did I??
I've done this a few times before, then caught myself and re-did it. Always the impeller corrected itself.
- so not really a problem.
Brandon's Garage all the time 😂 me too! i thought it was just cause I'm a lefty
I noticed that also, I you rotate the shaft clockwise to install the water pump housing then if you are going to rotate the water pump housing to install it you would have to rotate it counter clockwise for the impeller vanes to be pointing the right direction, but it is an excellent video great narration!!!
Has anyone ever swapped the slot head bolts for hex heads? I've got a cordless socket that could zip right through those fasteners.
They wont recess the same; but they do make a Phillips version.
@@BrandonsGaragegood to know. Many years of Mercruiser repairs. Shopping around for outboards. Really love that split gearbox on vintage Johnson and Evinrude.
Nice vid, I recently picked up a pair of '69 Johnson 6HP's for $50, and with cleaning the carbs and a quick points filing they both run great. Tonight I decided to check the lower units after running them in a barrel and one was completely full of water...looks like this video is a job I have in the near future. Great tutorial, and I won't rag on you about the impeller. ;)
Yeah, exact same process.
I have a few 6HP, pretty much mastered those engines.
I've having the most awful time getting the spaghetti seals correctly installed on my 35 Big Twin lower unit. Maybe the Permatex #2 is the ticket?
Or 3M 847
You'll need it for that waterpump anyway and is arguably a better sealant.
I am having a lot of trouble getting the lower unit back on the motor, like I can't get it to go back in all the way. I am also missing one of the 4 bolts that connect it back.
try turning your driveshaft in 1/8 increments to align with the crankshaft slot. also check for any wear indicator marks on the driveshaft at the water pump seals to see if its seated where it was originally. as far as bolts, just go to HD and get some stainless steel 304 bolts. make sure to use aluminum anti seize on all the bolts.
@@sheldonoetter3935 thanks I was able to get it back on the other day. What is HD?
@@samg6724 home depot
ok so my local boat dealership hooked me up with a local mechanic that completely serviced the lower unit of my 1968 9. 1/2 Johnson. He works out of his house and did the work in 2.5 days. He changed all the seals, installed a new water pump and freed a siezed transom clamp all for $255. hopefully that's a good price? I was just thrilled to find a local mechanic that knows the 68
Not a bad price I suppose.
$5 says he watched this video on how to do it
Ive watched all your videos and Im totally ready to service someone elses outboard for 300!! lmao!
Thought you had one of these posted great vid man helped me alot. Could I email you or text you I have a few questions about a 78 evinrude 6hp I just got. Gonna reseal the lower. Thanks keep up the videos
yeah, the email is in the 'about' section.
Thanks Brandon
I don't see it. Heres my number feel free to shoot me a txt or call 302 244 8238 names brian
Are there torque species for the Scag
Just the spec for 'standard screws'
1/4" 60-80 inch pounds.
What's special about the evinrude gasket sealer?
Couldn't say.
Its non-hardening, so easily removable - unlike RTV.
Its quite sticky, so holds the gasket in place, and I assume it fills all the small voids that the gasket usually couldn't.
You probably don't absolutely need it though.
The OMC type M dries very quickly and is strong, so it is great for gluing that darn spaghetti seal into the skeg, it is not affected by oil or gas. The OMC gasket sealer with the brush cap is more of a loose liquid and great for sealing gaskets. It is also nice for sealing the threads of screws during assembly to keep salt water from corroding the hardware in place. Salt can build up on the shafts of the screws seizing them in place, not just the where the threads actually engage with the housings. Merc an Yamaha make similar products, and these are really a must for doing many operations on these engines.
how hard is to turn the drive shaft when i tighten min it gets really hard to turn the driveshaft ?
is the waterpump in?
nobe
Pull the driveshaft up a hair. It may be sitting lower than usual (the pump hold it up a tid-bit)
Otherswise, possible the forward gear isnt aligned properly on the little pin, or the bear bearing head isnt aligned into its slots.
I found the problem :D it was a washer that wasint in place thanks for quick response ! and a great video !
Great video! Where
Where...what?
Can you put together the engine I have problem for that any one can help me shaft don’t go in I have Johnson 6 hp 1970 model
You need to alight the roll pin at the top.
This video might help: czcams.com/video/HekpzzZSwFw/video.html
I always lube it up before I slide it in...
Hi Brandon, do you answer questions?
@@davidcook705 I haven't been,
Been kinda distracted this year.
@@BrandonsGarage
In the lower unit of my Johnson 40 as you know, there is a screw called pivot pin. I am afraid if I take the screw out to replace the seal, I will not be able to get it in. Screw is leaking fluid so I know the gasket needs replaced on the screw. If I take the screw out, will it go back into the shift lever properly?
If you have an email, I can send you a picture if this does not make sense
Hello Brandon, may I send you a personal message regarding my 9.5?
sure
@@BrandonsGarage Is there a link to send you a PM? I wanted to attach a short video.
You didn't show the hardest part removing the old seals
That was to come.
I plan/planned on doing a seal removal video, showing the various ways to get them out.
@@BrandonsGarage incredible video thank you. Would really love to see the seals removal/installation.