I like how you show details! Alot of these guys act like we already know everything, like the one guy that fast forwards half his videos on disassembly and re assembly. Many viewers watch these videos because they don't know how things come apart or where things are located inside and I think it's great how you show it all! 👍
Thank you for telling everyone to turn the shaft clockwise. I watched 5 other videos. No one mentioned turning the shaft when putting the impeller cop on the impeller
I can't help myself, just got to lay some sealant on those gaskets and dielectric grease in the spark plug booths ... but that's me ! May I suggest that yiu do a video on a complete lubing / greasing of that motor as it is so critical in insuring its longevity. Stay safe and be merry !
As a 5 time OMC master tech, that is not how you do a water pump on a 4.5 to 8 hp Evinrude or Johnson. You need Adhesive M (847) on the gaskets. The impeller goes into the housing and liner first, then the gasket with Adhesive M (847) on the housing then the assy slides down over the Driveshaft and key. Gasket sealing compound or grease on the bolts.
I removed the lower gear case from a 2000 8 hp Johnson but the drive shaft is still stuck in the power head. Any suggestions of how to remove it, as it is very stuck?
These later models were nice because they had much stronger connecting rods than the earlier models with the aluminum rods, these engines really pack alot of power/speed considering their small size. These later models used a double seal setup on the lower seal to protect the driveshaft splines, which is why there is no groove for the driveshaft oring, because it isn't used. Nonetheless, rusted/seized splines are still an issue. It is so important to remove these gearcases once a year in salt water to clean and relube the splines. OMC used those non shoulder 7/16 head screws for awhile, probably a cost cutting measure. The shoulder screws work much better because the shoulder helps seal water out of the threads. Those screws looked dark in color, never seen that before. Some of these later model gearcases use a ball set up instead of the clutch dog, this was a failure, they eventually went back to the clutch dog. OMC ruined the most simple/rugged part on these engines, the carburetor. These modular carburetors were a cost cutting measure and unreliable when compared to the ultra simple carbs with the steel bowl. I was never a fan of these front shift/center mounted tiller set ups, the shifters were very touchy, too easy to jump from one gear to the other without stopping in neutral. Not a fan of the cheesy/cheap looking plastic engine cover and the flimsy latch either. But, I am "old fashioned" I guess. In spite of a few unforgiveable engineering/cost cutting flaws, these engines are great runners and develop plenty of power for their small size. This one had the same strange extension on the overboard water indicator hose, was it owned by the same person that owned the last one you worked on???
i just did one of these without any video and it doesnt work. ive also got gear oil coming out of it so i need to tear it down again and put all new gaskets in it. mines a 1984 but its the same thing from the looks of it. the instructions say to use gasket sealant on the two gaskets below the impeller housing so i used that. the motor runs with just half a pull of the cord. hope the lower end isnt screwed.
How is the shifting rod/connection set up on this engine? I find it takes more time to disconnect and then when assembly comes around to properly reconnect the shifting mechanism and associated linkage than any other part of separating the lower unit from the midsection in order to do this work.
I guess that depends in good parrt on storage conditions but over the years, I've found those impeller fins degrade more rapidly from prolonged storage (they set at a given angle and don't spring back anymore) then from use. Regards.
Same with me, I run a 2 cycle 15hp Yamaha in salt water. I get maybe 6 weeks of use out of the engine in the summer. After that short season the engine gets thoroughly winterized and stored for then next 10-10 1/2 months. Usually when I break it out the following season and start it up I end up having to change out the impeller again as it doesn't pump water. If I used mine year around I would expect to get several year use out of it. On outboards, regarding reliability, hard frequent use with minimal maintenance works out much better than letting them sit for years. That being said most of my problems come from the fuel, and fuel system (old and/or dirty fuel will cause headaches).
The water pump normally does not just quit. Most of the time it just pumps less and less water. This is one of the things to keep track of in the maintenance
I like how you show details! Alot of these guys act like we already know everything, like the one guy that fast forwards half his videos on disassembly and re assembly. Many viewers watch these videos because they don't know how things come apart or where things are located inside and I think it's great how you show it all! 👍
Thank you so much. I try to show what I am doing so everyone can see what I am talking about. Thanks for watching and commenting.
WONDERFUL VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I have the 2000 8 HP can't beleive how simple that was your a great instructor!!!
Thank you for telling everyone to turn the shaft clockwise.
I watched 5 other videos. No one mentioned turning the shaft when putting the impeller cop on the impeller
I can't help myself, just got to lay some sealant on those gaskets and dielectric grease in the spark plug booths ... but that's me ! May I suggest that yiu do a video on a complete lubing / greasing of that motor as it is so critical in insuring its longevity. Stay safe and be merry !
Glad you're still uploading OM, I've learnt so much from you.
Nice job Brother, keep up the good work. Say hi to the family take care and stay safe. 😊
I agree with you about the fast forwarding , I had to run it a few times to learn how to get the lower unit off.
Great video, thank you so much! Helped me with my Johnson 8HP!!!
Glad to see you back 👍🏻🤘🏻
Wonderful litle outboard ! 👋 ... Very good job ! 👍 Well done !!! 👏🤝
Thanks 👍 for commenting. Stay Safe
Great video shows all the steps! Now I need to do ours
Happy to help thanks for watching.
Welcome back thank you
As a 5 time OMC master tech, that is not how you do a water pump on a 4.5 to 8 hp Evinrude or Johnson. You need Adhesive M (847) on the gaskets. The impeller goes into the housing and liner first, then the gasket with Adhesive M (847) on the housing then the assy slides down over the Driveshaft and key. Gasket sealing compound or grease on the bolts.
I like that lower unit Bench you made , great video . also water pump housing bolts seem very tight lol
Thanks 👍 Those are tighter than tight.
Great video. I'm going to do this on my 1990 6Hp right now. Liked and subscribed..Thanks.
You're awesome! I would have checked to see if there was any oil in the engine, first. Sure was fun to see that start up the first time! Haha.
Was not this engine a 2 cycle?
@@apackwestbound5946 haha, snap! thanks.
Thank you for the video! Exactly what I needed. Where does the single o-ring go? Only thing I can’t figure out
Amazing how some of these Evinrude/Johnson motors just keep on ticking. Always a great job, gracias.
Thank you very much! and thanks for watching.
I removed the lower gear case from a 2000 8 hp Johnson but the drive shaft is still stuck in the power head. Any suggestions of how to remove it, as it is very stuck?
These later models were nice because they had much stronger connecting rods than the earlier models with the aluminum rods, these engines really pack alot of power/speed considering their small size. These later models used a double seal setup on the lower seal to protect the driveshaft splines, which is why there is no groove for the driveshaft oring, because it isn't used. Nonetheless, rusted/seized splines are still an issue. It is so important to remove these gearcases once a year in salt water to clean and relube the splines. OMC used those non shoulder 7/16 head screws for awhile, probably a cost cutting measure. The shoulder screws work much better because the shoulder helps seal water out of the threads. Those screws looked dark in color, never seen that before. Some of these later model gearcases use a ball set up instead of the clutch dog, this was a failure, they eventually went back to the clutch dog. OMC ruined the most simple/rugged part on these engines, the carburetor. These modular carburetors were a cost cutting measure and unreliable when compared to the ultra simple carbs with the steel bowl. I was never a fan of these front shift/center mounted tiller set ups, the shifters were very touchy, too easy to jump from one gear to the other without stopping in neutral. Not a fan of the cheesy/cheap looking plastic engine cover and the flimsy latch either. But, I am "old fashioned" I guess. In spite of a few unforgiveable engineering/cost cutting flaws, these engines are great runners and develop plenty of power for their small size. This one had the same strange extension on the overboard water indicator hose, was it owned by the same person that owned the last one you worked on???
i just did one of these without any video and it doesnt work. ive also got gear oil coming out of it so i need to tear it down again and put all new gaskets in it. mines a 1984 but its the same thing from the looks of it. the instructions say to use gasket sealant on the two gaskets below the impeller housing so i used that. the motor runs with just half a pull of the cord. hope the lower end isnt screwed.
How do you unhook the shift linkage
How is the shifting rod/connection set up on this engine? I find it takes more time to disconnect and then when assembly comes around to properly reconnect the shifting mechanism and associated linkage than any other part of separating the lower unit from the midsection in order to do this work.
Did you ever find this out? In the same boat.
same here
1 question: where does the little o-ring go? Thank you for the video
The o ring on this one went in the water pump housing where the shifter rod goes thru.
@@OmFishing uh oh.... 😅
my friend you did not show where the bore sleeve goes I'm presuming it goes inside the propellor
Great video! How long would you guess those water pumps last with not much use?
I guess that depends in good parrt on storage conditions but over the years, I've found those impeller fins degrade more rapidly from prolonged storage (they set at a given angle and don't spring back anymore) then from use. Regards.
Same with me, I run a 2 cycle 15hp Yamaha in salt water. I get maybe 6 weeks of use out of the engine in the summer. After that short season the engine gets thoroughly winterized and stored for then next 10-10 1/2 months. Usually when I break it out the following season and start it up I end up having to change out the impeller again as it doesn't pump water. If I used mine year around I would expect to get several year use out of it. On outboards, regarding reliability, hard frequent use with minimal maintenance works out much better than letting them sit for years. That being said most of my problems come from the fuel, and fuel system (old and/or dirty fuel will cause headaches).
@@apackwestbound5946 So true, sir !
Does it matter if you've moved the shaft around where the propeller goes on?
I never had a problem because of moving it.
No
Are there warnings signs before the water pump goes out?
The water pump normally does not just quit. Most of the time it just pumps less and less water. This is one of the things to keep track of in the maintenance
Hello sir, how can I get in contact with you? I’m sure you’re gonna be able to help me. Please let me know. This is the Leroy.
What is it that you need? I will see if I can help you.