HOW A LOWER UNIT WORKS!!!
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- čas přidán 28. 12. 2023
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WOW, you, my friend, are a genius! Best explanation in ALL my years of learning mechanical stuff...and I'm 63 years old !!! This video tops all others. In just a couple of minutes, you did a fantastic job and a very precise explanation of this lower unit.
I wish I had you as a teacher.
One of the best videos you've done in awhile imo. No click bait, very informative and fun to watch. A+!!
Thank you!
Outstanding explanation, I now know a lot more how the lower unit works. I am just getting into boating, and this is really helpful.
Awesome! Glad to hear you are getting into the boats!
@BornAgainBoating I think I jumped in the deep end. I got a 27'World Cat 2770. I've taken a class and been reading several books. I'm going to take it slow and really like the boat.
Your approach sounds excellent. Don’t be shy about meeting other boaters and inviting them for brief excursions on your vessel and try to go boating with others. Just my 2c
Thank you, I will. Most boaters I've meet seem to be more than helpful. I am looking forward to getting out and enjoying the boat.
Absolutely great. Best explanation I have ver heard and takes all the black magic away from how your lower unit works.
was looking for a breakdown on this leg but was not expecting to find a single video that covered it all in depth but very simply at the same time. Outstanding work.Thanks
I've only ever changed the gear lube on a yearly basis, first time I've seen "inside" the gear case. Excellent explanation of how things operate. Very interesting on the shim info; had no idea those numbers were there. Great job.
Thank you! Lol yeah, it's nice to see the other side of things you normally don't get too :)
Thank you for taking your time to make this!
Thank you! My pleasure!
Great way to see it all layed out like that. Very informational!
Wow this video is exactly what I was looking for
Great video. More content like this please 👍🏻😎 Best I’ve seen yet !!
Good explanation. Learn something every time I watch one your videos.
Thank you, and that's awesome!
Excellent video, thanks for creating this information for us to use.
Thank you and you are welcome!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
You are the man you know your stuff!
I appreciate that!
Great Stuff!!! Good to hear you calling it a "Clutch Dog". I first became aquainted with those components in 1964 with my 5 1/2 johnson outboard. On many Y.T. Vids now I hear young folks talking aboud "DOG CLUTCH" and I get the urge to tell them it is a clutch dog not a "Dog Clutch"! CHEERS from Westcoast Vancouver Island!!!
Really informative and interesting, appreciate it.
Thank you!
Amazing explanation, always wondered how it worked. Keep it up
Thank you!
Fantastic explanation! Really enjoyed this.
Thank you!
This was incredibly informative. Thank you.
I’m a diesel mechanic and this came across my recommendations. I find anything mechanical fascinating and I love furthering my knowledge. The name of your channel caught my attention right away. I went to your webpage and I have to say, I LOVE that you’re using your vocation to share the Gospel. So amazing to see another gear-head Jesus follower out there. God bless you and keep it up!
Awesome brother thank you!
Great video. You did an excellent job. I had a limited understanding, having changed an impeller once, and the carrier seals one, but now I can mentally visualize how the entire lower unit functions.
Great job explaining this set up!
Thanks!
Well done brother. Beautiful job
Excellent video. Very informative
Thank you!
Awesome description! Great job on the channel
Thank you!
Thanks Great explanation. My curiosity is repaired
:)
great video man I love the explanation. keep up the great content.
Thank you! And we'll be pumping out a ton more this year!
Thanks so much for the explanation. I have a much better undertanding.
You're welcome, thank you for commenting!
So well explained. Definitely "No user servicable parts inside" in my case
Lol :)
Brilliantly explained, thank you for posting this!
I use too rebuild the old Merc Alpha 1 Stern Drive units. There are special tools and ways to rebuild that you can only learn from someone who knows how to do this the right way. This one you show is a bit simpler I assume this is an outboard engine. My boats were used in the ocean and out there your life can depend on the boat running.
That's awesome, a lot of similarities in the stern drives and the outboards with the exception of the uppers on the stern drives lol but this was a smaller 25HP outboard so yeah, a lot simplier!
What a simple, well explained video. I learned a lot. Thanks
You're welcome!
Another Great Video!
Thanks!
Thank you!
Very clear , great video
Thank you
Sencillamente..Impresionante!! Thank you!
Thank you
Excellent video. Thanks for your time with all detailed information 👍🏻💪🏻
My pleasure!
Awesome video, great info! I know it is mundane to you, but you have cleared up so many questions for alot of viewers. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome mate, thank you
Fascinating! Thx
Great explanation. Really enjoyed it. Even my dumb ass feels like I could disassemble and reassemble now.
Great video thanks
Video is very good. I understand. Thank you.
Thank you!
Excellent video!
Thank you!
Great content! How about a video on what tools should be carried on a boat while on the water? I run a Hewes 18 so weight is important, but so is getting back to the hill. I don't have to carry as much as some, because I'm generally not more than a few miles from some form of safety. So my box isn't going to be as loaded as someone running 50 miles, who can also handle more weight. So what basic tools for common issues and what are some good combo or multipurpose tools that can accomplish multiple tasks? We all know everything is a hammer so I can do without that!
Great question, like you said it'll depend on how you use your boat, but just the Leatherman Super tool 300, that thing will do pretty much everything you need, that and some zip ties and a water bottle :)
Great video, detailed and concise!
The offset stamping on the lower housing is something I wasn’t aware of. Helpful, but seems like a work around for the manufacturer to be able to source lower quality castings. It apparently costs less to measure, emboss measurements and install shimming rather than cast/ machine with closer tolerances. Understandable, especially if the cost savings are passed along to the consumer (insert cynical comment here). I wonder if this is still the methodology in the fancy new motors these days - I’m still running a 1998 Yam 2 smoke 250
Excellent video
Thank you!
Interesting video!! seal it up!!!
Glad you made this video. Going to have to rebuild a 6HP mercury lower unit that I got as a basket case.
For sure! And ouch! Just a thought, maybe look around for a used lower unit, you could probably find one for a couple hundred bucks instead of dumping time and money in rebuilding the one you got ;) These little lowers usually come pretty easily and cheaper compared to repairing one :)
@@BornAgainBoating if you run across one, let me know.
Good stuff.😊
Thank you!
Love the info! Always wanted to know how this, that,these and there works! Lol
For Sure!
Gday mate that is the best explanation of the workings of a gear case i have seen you made it look easy pulling out carrier from the housing but ive seen some hell carriers ,question is there a special socket you used to turn the drive shaft when getting the pinion nut of ? ive bookmarked this as i said it is the best explanation of tollerences and the breakdown of the gearcase i have ever seen .
Hey, thank you! Yes, it depends on the lower unit, but there are special sockets that you can get that slide over the driveshaft to hold it! Depending on the lower too, you might need a special wrench, or have to make a special wrench to hold the nut. But check out Marine Tech Tools, they usually have the sockets for the driveshafts that you could get for whatever you need :)
Love watching a pro I think my try will. Well I'll just paddle home 😊
Lol :)
Yep
this is 1000 times better than animated video
Thank you!
I've got a 2002 Johnson V4 115 hp engine that's recently been experiencing extremely hard shifting from both Neutral to Forward, and Neutral to Reverse. Last spring, I took the time to lubricate the binnacle mechanism that I purchased used from a freshwater boat to replace the one that was on the boat, as well as lubricate both the throttle cable and shift cable by using tubing hose clamped to the cable, filled it with silicone lubricant, and pressurized it until the silicone lubricant came out the other end at the outboard. After doing all of this, the throttle cable moves so effortlessly that I have to be careful that I don't launch the onto plane after making the slightest change in position once in gear, but the shift cable is still extremely hard to shift, and many times when pushing the throttle forward from Neutral to Forward, the engine just revs to 1,500 RPM in Neutral and then goes into gear with a delayed shift. Based on what I've done already to rectify this situation and the symptoms that I'm still experiencing, would you say that I have a bad shift cable (it is the original), or is my issue in the lower end? Any advice from Born Again Boating would be GREATLY appreciated.
Well, a couple things, yes, definitely could be the cable still even though you did all that work. But:
Have you tried to disconnect the cables and run the engine without the cables connected? Like try and shift it by hand with some pliers or something there at the engine and see if you still have the same issue even by hand?
What is the RPM when you are shifting? If it's higher than 1000 you are going to have a hard shift either way because the force of everything spinning that high.
@@BornAgainBoating - With how tightly packaged the throttle cable, shift cable, other wires, and the rubber straps for the airbox / silencer straps are that tuck in-between the engine block and lower cowl, it's difficult to get at. I need to find out how to remove that lower cowl, so that I can easily get at the shift cable to disconnect it and test just like you said, but despite removing a number of screws, I'm unable to get the lower cowl off. I feel like it's still secured somewhere in the mid-section of the engine. I even bought an Evinrude factory manual from Ebay, which I thought would assist with removing this, but proved to be of no use. I guess that I have to just pull on it harder and see about getting it off.
I would say that it's shifting at 1,500 - 1,800 RPM when initially put from Neutral to Forward, so yes, it's going to be violent when doing so. From Neutral to Reverse, it's not so bad, but not normal by any means. It also has a hard time finding Neutral many times. When I'm docking and in Forward, I have to pull the binnacle back to Neutral and temporarily bump it into Reverse to then push forward to get it into Neutral. It's not an issue with the binnacle, as when the cables aren't hooked up to it, the binnacle mechanism performs properly and flawlessly. It's clearly either the shift cable, or the shift mechanism on the outboard. I've hosed down the shift mechanism levers and rods (as best that I can) with lubrication, but that hasn't changed anything. I need to get the cowl off and test further the cable and shift mechanism on the outboard.
thanks you
Thank you!
Heck of a deal man.
Thank you!
Think my head just exploded 😂
Lol
shouldn;t you have loosen the pinion nut with the drive shaft bearing in place? Removing it and loosening the nut induces unnecessary strain to the lower needle bearing.
This is true!
Great video. I have a 2005 Suk 250 with a leak around the prop shaft even after replacing the seals. There is a visible bearing carrier crack near the seal. To remove the carrier on a Zuk, is it pretty much the same process as this video? No special removal tools? Thanks much.
Actually, on most larger engines like 250s, they don't come out like this, but I think on the 2005 Suzuki it does have a similar set up with the bolts holding the carrier in. Not 100% but I believe it does come out and you won't need special tools, at least to get the carrier out. So you should be able to replace the carrier without special tools. You might have some work to do on the bearing and race, getting the race out the carrier, unless you replace them, not sure what comes with new carrier.
@@BornAgainBoating Got you, thank you for taking the time! Keep up the great content. Cheers.
@Born Again Boating how do you test an outboard rectifier/regulator before install or is that even possible?
I've had a couple of rectifiers die on me over the last 2 seasons the way they've been failing is the regulator part of the rectifier so it sends over 16v into my 12v system and the red fused wire where it connects to my starting system starts to melt the wire at one of the butt connectors(past the fuse-the fuse doesnt blow). Motor is a yamaha 25elhs connected to a Yamaha 704 ignition key switch(well the guts of a 704 stuffed into a 703 sidemount control) no neutral safety but otherwise the same.
Hey, um, well, the only tests most rectifier/regulators have is diode tests and ohms tests. But, I would start checking all the electrical connections and grounds, like there might be an issue with what the rec/reg is seeing as far as voltage, so it's trying to put out more than it needs to and burns itself out.
Hard to think that there is a problem with the stator or anything on that side of the system, that would burn up the rec/reg.
So, I'd be looking for a dirty or loose or bad connection somewhere on the power side of things from the battery, battery switch, ground cable, to the engine and making sure that all that is looking right and clean.
Your key switch and all that shouldn't have anything to do with that side of things, being the charging system.
I should've sent you guy's the motors I recently took to the scrap bin for your channel. That looks like the old Evinrude 2 stroke I threw away. That part's are so difficult to find, if you can, and everyone's charging an arm and a leg for them.
We won't turn down free stuff lol :)
Before I unscrew all the bolts to my lower unit do I put the engine in forward, reverse, or neutral? I have a 1998 115 horsepower Mercury 2 stroke. Your videos were actually recommended while I was taking a outboard class up here in Massachusetts.
Hi! Rose here, working with Aaron on comments. This topic is fantastic! We're going to feature it on our podcast soon. If you haven't listened yet, Subscribe Now! www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Hi Rose, would love to get an answer to my question if that's possible?
cool
Great clip, but doesn't explain why my Honda 90 wont always engage in reverse? Sometimes it does engage, other times it grinds and won't engage. Clutch dog is in good condition with no rounded edges.
Most likely it's not getting all the way pushed into place. Probably not a problem with the gear case, but that something is stopping part of the shifting process, to where it's not getting to the gear case. Like the shift mechanism, the shift cable something like that
My honda 9.9 looks exactly like yours but my pinion is striped and the shaft doesn't come out. Any advise if iam missing anything that I can't get it out!!
Greetings! Rose here, expressing gratitude for your comment! However, I'm unable to address your specific question. Your question has been saved and would be featured in an upcoming episode on our podcast channel.
Click the link below to subscribe if you haven't already🙏
www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Can you show the difference between cw and ccw lower units?
On larger cases they use a shift crank, and they just swap the shift crank from one side of the case to the other to change the shifting. Though the bearings and gears are different based on needing stronger parts for the forward gear than the reverse, but that's the basic in a nut shell :)
So if you nee to let’s say replace a forward gear the shimming with the standard deviation might be worth another video?
Sounds like you are asking for a friend? lol Maybe on the video though, of actually doing it :)
Good video, I have a 9.9 honda and I cannot remove the pinion from the drive shaft. The pinion got stripped so I want to replace it. I asked around for price quotes and there charging me 900$ more than my budget. I have the part but have not had any luck, any tips please.
Not sure what's up with not being able to get it off, what's stuck on it? Also, you can find a used lower for that engine for probably $4-600, why not just replace it and save yourself the time and money?
I don't see anything holding it, that's what is throwing me off. Am thinking of cutting it to see if I can pull it out and weld it back. If I can't weld back then I will buy a used lower case. Thanx .
Where can I get backlash tolerance specs for lower units ?
Warm greetings! This is Rose, Thank you for your comment! However, I'm unable to provide the answer you're looking for. We believe these queries are best addressed personally. Hence, we've introduced a channel membership for weekly live discussions. If this interests you, please click the "Join" button next to our channel name. Thank you for your understanding!
👍👍
And what is wrong with filling the gear oil from the top hole? It doesn't go down the plastic sleeve?
You can't fill them from the vent because there's no way for air to get out of the gear case then, so you'll have air pockets in the gear case and it won't actually fill up with gear lube.
When you fill from the drain screw with the vent out, the lube fills the case from the bottom up and pushes all of the air out of the gear case so you get it completely full of lube :)
Mind you some lower units have different tolerances and they don't want them completely full because it slows the gear case down, but that's a whole different topic and specific models :)
@@BornAgainBoating thank you, I understand leaving no air gap is the idea behind it.
I used a food syringe to fill my suzuki 6hp gear lube from the top. And it took the same volume of oil 0.2lt written on the user manual. The air came out from the top vent. I'll try to find a pump next time.
More or less!
Great but you missed a bunch of things, the impeller cup has a locking pin on it preventing rotation, alway check it, even new can be damaged, most hubs dont just pop off, they req a puller, some units require special tools, and most importantly you never never explained what the case does besides house the gears and why you never put those stupid stingray/doelphin tabs on the case! (I see the holes drilled in the anti cavitation plate , so i know this case had one) ,, so the general pop knows,, that part of the case is what holds water around your prop, drilling thru it and using disimler materials to bolt on the stingray cause corrosion and weakens the plate further, further more youre esentially lifting the entire rear end of the boat with that plate, loading the shlt out if it, if that plate breaks from either corrosion or load, wich most of them do over time, depending on the side you break determines which direction you wont hold hold water around the prop, either fwd or reverse, at that point youll be replacing the entire case or trying to weld it back together if youve got all the pieces
Hola podés poner castellano
Basically buy a new one don’t rebuild 😂
Why it looks simple, it's basically M0R0N proof.
@@ntal5859 go ahead and put your time and money in to one. Then let us know how all that works out.