Stihl ms150tce top handle how to timing advance and muffler mod
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2024
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Disclaimer: ladies and gents, this is a CHAINSAW, working with, building and fiddling with these can KILL YOU, I am not and will not be responsible for improper technique or accidents even remotely relating to this video, please view for entertainment purposes only.
In this video, I described how I did a timing advance and muffler mod on a brand new Stihl ms150tc-e. There are other videos I've seen on youtube on the before and after results of these mods, but I didn't see a bolt for bolt video. So I made one! Enjoy! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I followed your instructions on my wife's 150 rear handle. It's a different saw, thanks!
welcome!
a trick: you can watch series on kaldrostream. Me and my gf have been using it for watching a lot of movies recently.
@Felipe Chandler definitely, have been using Kaldrostream for since november myself =)
@Felipe Chandler yea, I have been using kaldrostream for since december myself :)
Got one open muff small tune runs gteat. Think its a great little saw with a very sharp chain. Had it 2 years n goes great,
Hey mate, thanks for the video! Will advance timing be of an advantage for all/most saws? And is it 1/3 of the key for all saws as a rule of thumb or just this particular one? Cheers
Alex Swan doesn't work for all saws because some are already optimally timed.
Yes I do buy from HL Bruce is a great guy to deal with ~!~!
+Boo luquette Great! please use my link if you are going to buy from HL. Right now I'm doing my chainsaw vids ad free in hopes that I generate enough revenue from that link. Thanks for the comments!
Great tips, thanks! Do the bolts on the exhaust need any torq or blue loctite?
Blue loctite is not going to help due to temp. Red maybe. I don't have a specific torque number sorry
Nice video!!! Thx a lot for these great tips!I have a Chinese 45cc chainsaw and I want to advance the timing.
How much should I take of the key way to have the maximum performance? I heard somebody saying that 1/3 should be enough? Is that right?Thank you!
3rd sounds about right. wish there was an easier way to dial it in
Some guys says 20 degrees others say 9 degrees. If it pings its too much.
Question for you > Why are the circlips are almost impossible to get in on a HyWay and the oem for a Husky are easier ? I used my oem in my Hyway piston. HyWay were way to thick ~!~!
+Boo luquette most people advocate using oem circlips on everything anyway. I don't, I use whatever comes with the kit. I don't remember the hyway being a particular issue, but I know what you are talking about. One thing to do, practice with the circlips. Do them multiple times, over and over until you get comfortable doing it. thats what I did anyway. practice practice :)
Hello, I really like your videos
Question Is it possible to make Muffler Mode for the husqvarna 135 x-torq?
and also to stil ms 180
I'm sure it's possible but I'm unfamiliar with those models. Sorry
@@matthewolson8875 10xs
How do you know how much to cut off the fly Wheel key
well...other guys have experimented with it and gotten results....so I trust those results
How do you know how much of the key to cut
see my other reply
Have you ever repaired Jonsered saws?
Yes... why do you ask?
Hey, Matthew. To remove a flywheel, I've been doing the same thing you're doing for the last 30 years (or more). Backing the nut off to the end of the shaft, putting a pry-tool under it and tapping it with a hammer. BUT, I wanted to mention one fiddly little detail to you regarding what you did on this one. Minor little thing, really...
Obviously you want the top of the nut level with the top of the shaft, so that you don't bend any threads. But when you tapped on this one you were using the round end of your ball-peen hammer. When you're doing this, even if you're only tapping lightly, you ^always^ want to use the flat end of the hammer. And you want to make sure that you tap squarely on the end of the shaft/nut, because any little sideways force will end up bending threads in the wrong directions.
Anyway, not a big deal - but I thought I would mention it to you. I know of this because there were several little Briggs engines that I messed up the threads on the crank back in the '80s. Which is why I know that tapping SQUARELY on the end of the nut with a flat hammer surface is SO important to do it correctly. It's one of those life-lessons that I never forgot. Know what I mean? ;)
ya....problem with the flat end is that it's too big and it hits the pawls...but I hear ya
Matthew Olson
- I spent many years working as a machinist, so I suppose I'm spoiled. I have about 16 different sized hammers, and they all seem to have a specific purpose - at times.
If you had a slightly smaller hammer when you did that, you could have used a flat surface - and then you would have had the peace of mind to know that no threads were bent.
Then again... it does sort of require a really large toolbox. So I suppose that's kind of a downside to that line of thought.
Or an upside. Depending on your line of thought. :D
I hear ya. And yes...I like tools
I just purchased one of these for my tree business. As far as the key are you grinding 1/3 off or just 1/3 of the height of it?
thickness, not height
Matthew Olson so basically your grinding straight across the top “long” side of it?
you don't want to shorten the height, just take away from the thickness
Matthew Olson 10-4. Thank you for your help. Did you have to retune it? I did the muffler mod and it seems to run fine on factory specs.
how much faster is it with the mods?
Stephen dunno....never tried it without ....sorry
Nice work! Whats to stop the flywheel moving back on the key.As i will be doing this mod soon. Thank you in advance.
The key is just a positioner. The taper of the crank/flywheel holds the flywheel in position. If the flywheel nut is not torqued appropriately it can move and shear... and thats bad :) sometimes that will happen and cause the saw to not start because the ignition timing is no longer coordinated with crank position. its a difficult problem to diagnose.
Ok thanks! what if i was just to do the muffler without advancing the timing' would this be of any advantage.
Yup :)
Great job- now it's worth $200
uh? thanks? :)
Matthew Olson Now It's Worth About $80 & The Warranty Is Out The Window With Stihl If You Or Your Dad Was To Have Any Problems With It A Stihl Specialist Will Spot The Mods Straight Away Anyway Each To There Own.
Jake Smart More Like $80
Still only warranties them for 90 days anyways
Needs a cone pipe and Mikuni with a greenie … she could rip full skip on the dogs all day long then.
Yer just good balance n for pruning best shit for money, loud tho
Hi..wat is the purpose of opening the muffler hole.
Let's the motor breathe easier....more power less heat
How difficult was the carb tunning process
Not bad...why?
Just finished modifying my Ms 150 tc, advanced timing and muffler mod. I noticed it needs to be carb tuned. I read a forum that said just adjust the H till it runs optimally. Is that correct?
if the carb needs tuned, it needs tuned. if you adjust the high needle too lean you can kill the saw. fyi. so be careful with your adjustments. MWEBA on youtube has a great video on tuning chainsaws
@@matthewolson8875 sounds good thank you
Why couldn't you move the coil instead of making a sloppy key that the flywheel could potentially slip on and wreck the crank?
The coil is a lot harder to move. I've sheered plenty of keys....never wrecked a crank. The cranks are hardened...odds of wrecking on is low due to sheared key.
Hi Matt, Hog out that muffler and lose the spark screen...you know how I don't like them..he he he! Dave 262xp 394xp
this is for dad....he won't need any more grunt hehe....and yes....I know who you are ...hope all is well
Interesting, advancing timing . First for me.
+STEVE ROB Brad's vid.... here is the saw modded: czcams.com/video/Vu7wlOIR9DQ/video.html
+STEVE ROB unmodded czcams.com/video/vn4wj7EtYpc/video.html
+Matthew Olson haha for me I don't have that much time to saw thru a log of softwood , this is modded wow what was it like before. I think it's great for pruning roses. LOL
+Matthew Olson haha I think I could beat that with a dull axe. LOL
+STEVE ROB but if you were up in a tree, wanted precision, this is ideal. its super lightweight ... nice saw overall. not for felling :) my dad is going to prune apple trees with the thing probably
did you pay 500 for that saw? I got a 193t for 300 out the door
two different saws .... the saw was just under $500 out the door and has been a gem.
Matthew Olson 192 and 193 is only $329.
DO YOU NEED A TICKET IN THE UK TO BY THE SAW
I don't know the laws in the UK... sorry. I think some places put restrictions on who can buy top handle saws... but I'm not sure. I just walked into the dealer and walked out with it :)
thanks for the info
have you ever seen the samurai
Carpenter
yes, why?
In the UK you need to be qualified, certified and a current ticket holder. Sad but true, even if you’ve worked successfully with saws for decades. Have an accident on site and you don’t have a ticket, you don’t have insurance. A connection there methinks.
I was quoted over £1000,00 for the training module per worker.
You opened up the muffler but left the deflector opening stock.
No matter what you did inside the muffler the bottleneck is now the deflector.
agree completely....which is why I bend up the deflector a bit too.... gotta open that up a touch (well, at least on my 372s.... on this little ms150tce... I was just going for slightly more open...which is fine
Given this saw looks to have had very little to zero hours cutting wood of any significance/at all...... how could you know what improvements might be needed or ascertain whether your mods were indeed an improvement?
Online forums.... top guys that have suggested improvements. I did the simple stuff and that's it.
@@matthewolson8875 but you haven't even let the saw run in its so new.
@@stephentree3466 yes... I wanted to make simple mods that would improve the saw from the getgo. It's not new anymore :)
Matthew Olson like I said earlier, how can you establish the discernible difference if you haven’t initially used the saw and established its base level factory set run in performance ?
Out of interest and of no particular relevance, is your primary interest within the tree care industry ?
@@stephentree3466 I cannot establish a difference ...I didnt test the saw beforr and after. The goal was to not have to. My father prunes his apple trees with the saw. It is not intended for commercial use....just hobby
What's with all the hate? 150tc is a zippy lil saw and and you have a great channel. Keep up the good work m8
Hehe...thanks for the comment :)
I am a stihl.tech I see you work on a lot of saws y dont you by a pair of knock off 4 the flywheel
john Kosheluk buy a pair of knock off for the flywheel? I'm sorry ....I don't understand. ..didn't know the 150 had knockoffs yet
john Kosheluk oh!!.... a knocker for the flywheel....gotcha....yes...I'm gonna make one soon ....thanks for the heads up
Matthew Olson I use them all the time makes it a lot easier
john Kosheluk yep...thanks
Matthew Olson if you want some part number I can get them tomorrow 4 you I allso am rebuilding a 200t
Sorry spark arrester'
Timing mods may get an increase in power but opening up the muffler on a two stroke is not as straight forward as it seems.The amount that you can open the muffler depends upon the size of the exhaust port on the barrel and the amount of transfer port area internally. A good place to start is an opening equal to the cylinder exhaust port. With some experimentation, you can work up to 1.5x the area of the cylinder exhaust port.
You need at least a little bit of back pressure in the exhaust system to keep your saw running to its full potential. Too big a hole, or no muffler at all, will suck.Sometimes, even 1.25+ times the exhaust port can be too large. That's why it's best to make a smaller opening at first, then increase the size of the opening if you dare. More noise does not mean more power.
If the muffler port is too big, it will actually slow the saw down!
azopene I didn't open it much....just a bit....runs nice :)
Lol, you don't need locktight on the flywheel nut, it self tightens as the engine is running
Nope, the flywheel is keyed... so I highly doubt it self tightens, as opposed to the clutch ... which definitely does self tighten. I don't have trouble getting the nut off with loctite, and don't have trouble with it loosening either
even though its spinning the correct direction to self tighten, I highly doubt the mass of the nut is enough to generate more force than my torque wrench... so i'll guess that flywheel nuts don't self tighten appreciably