Stop 3d printing so slow!!! 🤯 (how to print faster)
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2022
- Use these simple tricks to 3d print more than 3,357% faster. (no joke)
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You can also tweak a few parameters such as:
- number of perimeters
- perimeters speed (interior vs exterior)
- number of solid layers (bottom and top)
- speed of solid layers (bottom and inner)
- top solid layer speed, pattern and width
- infill pattern
- infill size
- infill speed
- infill every 2 layers
- infill only where needed
- travel speed
- etc.
Also, you can replace the current print system by Kilpper in order to reach faster speeds with same quality or even better.
Depending on what your goal is (speed, quality, structure, balanced, …), you should be able fine tune more settings. I am pretty sure that you can reduce you print time even more!
Please give us more details.
im new to printing, on maker website they provide printer settings, dont know if those parameters are optimal
@@J-_-S depends on material, geometry, external temp,... You will learn with time and failed prints
plz make a video on 3d printing.
@@pollrodri6254 oh yes Im failing, one piece failed to print, but rest of print has printed good. DOnt know why this shit is happening
So, while Ive considered myself a hobbyist for years(all the way back to maker farm) what I have yet to see anyone do a video is development of a filament profile from nothing and explanation of all the slicer settings OR. complete calibration process for an individual printer for any given slicer. Slicers have a ton of settings and any one miscalculation can be disastrous.
that would be helpful
Jesus Christ the good true miraculous God loves you my friend :" )
This would be so helpful for getting a profile setup on newer cura for my Lulzbot Taz6
Teaching Tech has a fantastic complete printer calibration walk through as well as profile creation
@@joshua2400 god doesn't exist. you're like a flat earther, you believe in something that can be disproven within seconds
This video is more a commercial than helpful content. It seems like it was made for people who have never even 3D printed not those looking to reduce print times
Would probably be more useful to present the percentage reduction in print time provided by each setting individually.
Yeah, you can print fast by swapping nozzle, increasing layer height and linear speed... but you must also have an extruder/hotend combo that allow you to push like three times the amount of filament in any given moment (on an Ender 3 with stock hotend/extruder you're not gonna push out 23+ mm3/s of filament at almost 10 m/s of filament speed) , not to mention the fact that you need to tune settings accordingly.
Useful knowledge, but fairly incomplete unfortunately
Enough to get you started researching for more info.
@@floridaman964 yes and no... someone could take only the info from this video and start to crank up shit, and halfway through a print find out that it doesn't work properly. One should know that this is incomplete info
@@mattgavioli6762 But in the video he said his Ender 3’s are stock, did he not?
@@supersecularboypants hence me saying "... but you must also have an extruder/hotend combo that allow you to push like three times the amount of filament in any given moment (on an Ender 3 with stock hotend/extruder you're not gonna push out 23+ mm3/s of filament at almost 10 m/s of filament speed)"
@@mattgavioli6762 One should make it very clear in the vid what is missing, and perchance include it.
Here's a video idea, 'How To Use Plastic Welding To Fix Broken 3D Printed Parts'.
When something breaks, the simplest solution is just to print a whole new part and toss the old one. But that's wasteful when the part can just be stuck back together. Sometimes glue is the best option for this, but when something doesn't have enough surface area, you don't have glue on hand, and/or you just can't use it for one reason or another, take advantage of how parts are made in the first place and just melt them together with a soldering iron and a little filler material (the raw filament)
I use a 3D pen for this.
@@michaelbujaki2462 same
step 1, burn paper, collect ash (carbon).
Step 2, mix into cheap ass 2 part epoxy resin you can get from any discount store for a dollar,
step 3 glue/fill shit for a far more permanent/strong slightly flexible bond than you can get with any glue alone.
;o)
Check out frankly built videos. He has severel about pla welding
I'm probably going to come off as harsh. I don't mean to. I just want to provide constructive criticism. I feel deceived. No duh using more printers will result in a faster print. I understand you are promoting a sponsor, and that's fine. But the beginning of the video made me feel that you were going to go over slicer settings that let you print that giant benchy using one printer. First video of yours I have disliked.
@@greatestevar he does go over settings, the buying more printers is just a sponsor at the end
Yea I agree this was light weight click bait…. He literally said thing any basic user of 3D printer should know…….. and he’s time tables was off, the original print time was 81 hours, yet at the end he said we saved over 80 hours? So the print time is less then an hour now???
You’re right also he said no upgrades then immeadiately said use a larger nozzle which is upgrade or alternate purchase so immeadiately a lie
I hear what you are saying, but there was a couple decent tips that are legit. Lightning infill is pretty good and ill be honest, i didnt know i could print as fast as he did in this video. Ive been printing at work for about 6 months, all self taught so i still have alot to learn but my prints come out great on the ultimakers5. But im going slooooooow. Ususally at 30 sometimes up to 45 speed. Our prints need to be very precise so i just error on the slow side thinking it will greatly improve quality but now im thinking i could speed up a bit. Anyone got an opinion on prints speed in relation to precision? Like whats the tipping point where you atart sacrificing quality for speed. Im sure theres not one solid answer so general advice/opinions are welcome. Thanks everybody
He did go over printer settings and reduced the print time 80% and 80 hours. It was only when he printed the HUGE model that he used multiple printers. If you feel deceived, it is due to a misunderstanding on your part.
Thanks for the slicing tips to make my prints faster. I will definitely give them a try. The ad plugs at the end of your video were not that painful as they seem to be for other people. Thanks again 👍🏼
When it comes down to it, there are two ways to reduce print time: reduce the amount of filament used, and extrude at the maximum volume flow rate that your extruder or part cooler can handle. Wide, thick layers will result in a short print time, even at slow movement speeds. A wall that's twice as wide and twice as thick printed at half the speed still prints in half the time. It's also much easier to upgrade your max extrusion rate than to improve all the kinematics of your machine to enable faster movement speeds.
The third way is Klipper with input shaping. Better and faster commands to your printer. This removes the limitations in slow Arduino style controllers BUT your printers maximum potential will still be limited by the flow rate and kinematics of your machine (albeit the limit will be higher than without faster processing).
Adding a Volcano or other high flow nozzle can make a big difference in maximum flow rate even if you don't replace the heater block. CNC Kitchen did a great video on different nozzle solutions which can handle significantly higher speeds without underextruding.
TLDR:
Increase the layer height
Increase print speed
Bigger nozzle
Lightning infills
And this all reduces the quality of the print significantly.
@@MAGAMAN You don't need .1mm quality when printing something very big
Without the correct hotend and extruder combo you cannot print at more than 80mm/s without running into quality problems. The stock Bowden Ender 3 setup won’t work that well on high volumetric flow rates. Yes it is printable but you will face skipping on the extruder, or lots of under extrusions
I also heard that printers like the FLsun super racer prints 50-80% faster due to its 3 arm design. I use a ender 3 v2 since I just started recently.
Thank you Steven…this vid was very informative. I’ve only been printing for a few weeks now…maybe two months top. Yesterday morning I had my first flirt with 3D printing disaster. I set the printer up and after watching it for a few layers…I set out to do other thing on the computer. It failed and I had a blow back. I cleaned it up and printed more.Tomorrow will be a tuning day thanks to your vid. You answered some questions I’ve had since before getting a 3D printer. I did get a few bigger nozzles and I’m gonna try the .6mm and speed it up thanks to your vid. I have a Elegoo Neptune 3 Max and I believe that I should have the house filled with 3D printed stuff already! LOL
How do you get the price estimate of how much it would cost to print on the Cura’s slicer?
i just got my first 3d printer for christmas so im a complete beginner, all these tips are for sure gonna help. thank you!
Wow... just WOW! Thank you!!!
Hey man I wanted to know what software did you use to split up the model and scale it up
You’re increasing day by day, it’s incredible
oh well, one thing I didn't know was the lightning infill. I have 2 ender 3 with noctua fans all over. I van currently print at 100mm/s, this is double the recommended speed! so cheers to OP, for showing, that it's possible
Yea lightning is new in cura 5.0. I think the new PrusaSlicer update has lightning capabilities as well
@@avgjoeshow4208 thanks for the info, I will try it out
@@ytHUNTR yea check it out. It’s pretty sweet and can save loads of time. I wouldn’t use it on a part that you need any real strength though. But if it’s just for looks it works great
You can also try increasing extrusion width
Yes you can. I did an experiment where I extruded a 0.8mm line with a 0.4mm nozzle. This really speeds up the layers.
Yeah but that's basically what he did when he changed the nozzle
@@erikschmidt2571 Most slicers set the default extrusion width to ~ 110% of nozzle size, but it can be increased to 150% or even 200%
@@erikschmidt2571 and with a 0.8 you can go up to 1.6mm line width, but turn up the heat because it will gobble the filament like you wouldn't believe.
I used print on my stock ender with a upgraded motherboard using 150mm/s and then I got the cr10 smart pro this year and I print depending on what I need to use the print for I print 250mm/s and it still comes out looking perfect.
🤣
Thanks! I'm gonna try it out tonight!
Great video!! Super helpful tips 👏
Really excellent. So many 3d print videos are not very useful. Printing times are a big issue and this video is right to the point. Thanks 👍
Throw a spider hotend on it, you can get a decent gain over stock hotends on the ender 3. I have been impressed with the flow and reliability of the spider. Don't get me wrong, it can't outflow a volcano but it doesn't ooze like a volcano does. With some tweaks to coasting and retractions it prints really good.
If someone wants to push the speed a bit more they are going to need more hotend flow, a simple all metal heatbreak will actually provide a decent bit more flow pair it with a good Copper nozzle for even better flow and another benefit is reduced retraction distance (~2.5mm vs ~6mm stock) which makes a noticeable difference in print time.
As for speed, you should have at least mentioned acceleration. It doesn't reduce the speed in cura BUT in real world prints it does. Stock ender3 if want to keep it like stock reliability 2k acceleration is perfectly acceptable on all my enders when they were stock.
Rambling about my enders below if anyone cares if not, don't read anymore. Also willing to answer questions if anyone reads this wants to ask.
I have multiple enders all with different mods. My most reliable is stock hotend with a bi-metal heatbreak, aluminum creality extruder. Followed by the spider hotend,titan direct drive, skr 1.4 turbo w/tmc 2209.
Fastest ender of mine is the one with linear rails,coper volcano block, titanium heatbreak, bmg extruder, mks tinybee w/tmc 2208 and all steppers upgraded.
Most troublesome but coolest imo is the dual nozzle, dual extruder setup. It's got skr 1.4 turbo w/2208, 1 titan extruder 1 bmg(not sure which I like more) it pushes as much flow as a standard v6 hotend but isn't for speed.
Could you please give some advice How to slice the model for few separate part for printing them on the different printers at the same time?
Ideamaker slicer has adaptive infil where you set a percentage for the majority of the print, but 3 layers before a solid layers, it will use the higher percentage. i set mine to 5 % and 15%. I also use 0.32mm layer height on my 0.4 nozzle with a line width of 0.5 or 0.6mm which is the same as a 0.6 nozzle, but with my stock nozzle. people think you need to change nozzles when you dont. 3D printing was originally designed around a 0.5 nozzle and 0.5 line/extrusion width. with my stock 0.4 nozzle i print with a line/extrusion width as low as 0.3 and as high as 0.6 with no issues.
Maybe your nozzle is worn out🤔
@@Leynad778 its a new nozzle. You dont have to change to a 0.6 nozzle to get the benefits. On my 0.4, my line width is at 0.6 and my layer height is 0.32 for some parts
micro center has this deal a lot, right now it's for a ender 3 v2 which i like a lot, but i suck at everything so i couldnt get it running right, so now i have it on the floor somewhere wasting space.
Rather than using lightning infill, I user infill support and/or gradual infill steps. They have been around in Cura from the beginning but too many people overlook them.
Can you tell me how is this done?
Install the setting guide plug-in and it gives details on all the settings and how to use them.
How is it better than lightning?
i find hard to believe the hotend on the ender 3 can push 120mm/s printing speeds with a big nozzle.
Yep you're right. He isn't taking into account that the hot end can only melt a certain volume of filament per second.
I normally print at 150mm/s with a 0.4mm nozzle. But with a 0.6mm nozzle I can barely get past 80mm/s without running into issues.
That's with bigtreetech upgraded board with nice stepper drivers and a pi running octoprint.
This guy just messed with slicer settings and took the estimated time as gospel without testing those crazy low print times.
Rated flow is inthink under 12mm³ per sec. So 0.4x120x0.28 is 13.44. So not too much for short bursts . The speed is always the top speed remember, which is achievable only if the line is long enough to accelerate to and decelarate from the max speed in the distance available. So often, the actual avg speed isn't going to be 120 per se.
Ya, you can clearly see where it starts under extruding in the video.
@@ishanmamadapur6307 , would the calculation need to be 120 x 0.27 x π x (0.4/2)^2?
IE, taking the area of the circular nozzle rather than its diameter?
Not sure as new to this so I might be missing something.
Thank you for the information.
cheers my guy, big help. strait to the point i wanted
i got my prints from 1749 minutes to 409 with ONLY Settings. i made the outer lines thin and the inner ones thick but ran them both faster so that the smaller one still looks good with that extrution. strength works as well. allon a 0.4 nozzle
upgrading hotend would also increase print speeds and making sure to use the latest Cura verison as well. There was an update awhile back that increased speeds by like 40% just from cura algorithm alone. With a new hot end, I was able to 2x speed in some cases but decided to go back down for better quality
Infill doesn't really affect strength that much, if you want more strength add more walls.
There's a Micro Center opening near me in May. I wonder what kind of deals they will have.
Just getting into the world of 3D printing, I wanted to expand my knowledge from metalworking and woodworking. 3D printing has always peaked my interest. What kind of filament do you suggest for making item that are UV resistance, rigid and durable. Wanted to make plastic inserts for leveling feet.
How do I find someone in my area to come and teach me hands on 3D printing
Need more Micro Centers in the country.
>just decrease the quality/structural integrity and you'll print faster
wow who could have guessed
Are you doing any type of giving away for a 3D print in the near future? I would love to get back into 3D printing
I bought my first ender 3 at microcenter and in the first day of printing I couldn’t be happier. Can’t recommend it enough
There is an option on Cura which reduces my prints from 8 hours to just 3 hours and is called “Adaptive Layers”.
I turn the option on and in most cases it dramatically reduces print time.
You! Are the Man!!! thank you so much for that information
Hello, I see you are a creality user, can you make a video about why the creality slicer is bad and why you should switch to prusaslicer/cura?
My friend is also a creality fan but will not understand why the creality slicer is bad
Have you changed acceleration and jerk? If not, I dont think that you are really reaching 120mm/s everytime. Maybe in a long line you will, but not in a model with a lot of sudden orientation changes.
Speed up your prints by reducing the quality. What a genus.
Am so gonna get into this around Xmas time
I’ve had constant issues with my Ender 3 V2.
Final straw was a clogged of hot end. I could buy an upgraded one along with other parts but then why not just get a better printer period? Which I had done.
I learned alot from It which I’m thankful for, but I’m curious but others experience with it.
Have you had an issue with it as well? How’d you solve those problems and did you end up with a reliable machine? What did it take
do you clean / maintain it?
or after printing you just let it be?
I've used all these except that infill tactic. Is that in PrusaSlicer too? Love using the other tactics, though
The US barely has a microcenter they need to be in every major city. I have never seen one in person
very cool! At the end you show joining the several prints with what looked like a soldering iron. how are you joining the prints?
I’m not too sure, but I’d guess a 3D pen, using the melted filament as glue.
It's a soldering iron. He's just re-melting the surface layers and bonding the two parts together with melted plastic. A cheap one off amazon works great.
@@johnnymanutes2057 Harbor Freight and other hardware stores have soldering irons specifically designed to melt plastic. They work much better than a "regular" soldering iron.
great topic, thanks
lol that "120mm/s" on your V2 isn't 120. that's more like 60 or 70. Stock board can't print that fast no matter what you do to your setting or firmware unless you are running klipper.
Yeah my printer moves faster than that not at 2x speed. His accels must be slow
Though if you ran a bedslinger at 120 you'd get some mid print part removal for free.. Don't ask me how I know lol
@@gotmilkbutt I have a voron bedslinger and with pei, adhesion is maybe a little too strong 😅
@@gotmilkbutt I have gone up to 200 with my V2 but the output is far from acceptable. Lol too much ringing because of the heavy bed and my part cooling was not even close to being enough
@@lancereyesromero7811 I can get ~180 on my big'ish CR-10S bedslinger with fairly good quality, with 0.6 nozzle doing 0.32 or 0.4 (don't recall) layers. It's running an SKR2 board with 2209s all around except one 5160 for a more beefy bed motor, a much more capable extruder, copper dragon with the mellow nickel-plated copper volcano block, and 70w cartridge. Plus bigger motor for the bed, low elasticity belts, and accelerometers to optimize travel/acc/deacc etc and mitigate ringing. Bed was aready heavy (no S4/S5 or Max, but still heavy), adding a magnetic flex plate, 1000W mains silicone heater pad and ceramic cotton insulation didn't help; probably added 750-800g.
There's not a whole lot of "CR-10S" left by now I guess, that I will concede.
thanks for the link for the $100 off the Ender pro. I picked one up! Subbed!
My life goal: making my filament storage look like a store shelf.
Thank you very much for this video!! Awesome!
Thanks for the tips! MyCreality slicer doesn't seem to have lightning infil. Any idea how to add it?
99 bucks for a Pro is great. Get it, flash the board with a version of the Ender 3 V2 software and you have a helluva great printer. That is what I did to my old Pro and now I have a nice New V2... The only difference is the center extrusion location. V2 is 25mm farther forward on the center cross extrusion. This places the build plate father forward of course. You just need to reposition the rear limit switch to set the front left corner of the bed with the nozzle. If you still have the stock wheels on the bed then they have enough clearance before they bottom out on the Y axis belt tensioner housing. I converted mine and she prints just like my Voxelab Aquila that I changed over to a 4.2.7 Creality board and is now a running V2 software. Now you say WHY maker the change... It's all about the software. V2 with the Marlin2 leveling feature will turn your pretty nice little Pro into a Powerhouse V2.
I can't find the promotion he is referring to. I wonder if there is some promo code or coupon somewhere?
put your speed to 999 mm/sec and print in 10 minutes
Oh how I wish we had a Micro Center where I live. Fry's closed up so now we're stuck with Best Buy! Yeahhh!
Very interesting tips, thanks 🙏
so im printing like 1,6 mm cards out of wood filament, any tips to speed it up? also making boxes that the cards fit in, same question?
You didn’t really say what the second change is. You just say “with this change it will reduce it by 72%”. Informative video though.
What material or filament used here. Thanks
Ya I'd love to buy one... sadly the nearest microcenter is almost 6hrs away 😔
Would you consider doing a vid on the ideal settings? I went into "Speed" for instance when you told us to print faster (I've never gone over 70) and saw your wall-speed etc was 60, Cura's default is 35. I'd like to know all your settings and I'm sure all your viewers would too. Thanks
PS You should do voice-overs, you have the perfect tone for it
Hi Steven, whats the best free 3D Cad i should start with?
How did you join that giant print? I’d like to know more about how to do that
Banger of a video!
I have the neptune 3 max. I wanna make figures. I printed 3 pieces about 4 inches big and took 15 hiurs. Can u help me pkease with settings. They are figures . That u make in pieces. Is there a way to print faster?
Ender 3, I have such a hard time printing on black or brown PLA color. All my PLA light colors print good 220 nozzle 60 bed for tempered glass. Dark colors my best results 200 nozzle 55 bed and still a mess for a good print. Any recommendations?
Nice! You in SoCal that’s my local micro center. Can you help me dial in my ender 3 pro and I’m having issues updating my cr-6 se to the community firmware
I’m new to printing can you use different slicers for different printers like the Prusa slicer for a sovol?
😂 Micro center!!! I knew that was coming😂 to bad its 400 miles from where i live😢
TLDR: Microcenter needs to stop making that deal first-order only because they're hemorrhaging money, overvaluing NTB, and screwing us, the important customers (avid repeat buyers).
It's an unfortunate result of marketing leadership overvaluing new-to-brand customers. Yes, in ecom NTB are generally worth more than returning but that model breaks down with this specific Microcenter Ender 3 deal when you take into account a) people who buy multiple 3d printers over time tend to REALLY keep buying them (so this cohort's retention is amazing), b) people who are new to 3d printing tend to NOT buy more than 1 (so this cohort's retention is shit), c) a significant percentage of "new" customers who secure this Microcenter discount are actually returning buyers gaming the system, further muddying up the data and making NTB and CAC look better than it actually is, d) while there is merit to the assumption that this deal has a big impact on mass adoption of 3d printing, I guarantee the microcenter marketing team has not accurately quantified what that impact is because it would require all the major competitors to share data and properly gauge incremental adoption which is essentially impossible, e) deep discount promotions like this only pay off if a strong retention and LTV are expected. Which is clearly not the case here.
Source: have overseen ecom for some big brands
its not that serious
Oh yeah far too many micro center things are new customer only
this was super informative and concise. keep up the good work
No it wasn't
how did you make the cura to show you the price when you slice a model
What kind off hot knife di you use to piece together that Benchy
Good video actually I’m going to start printing a half life alyx combine charger and without this video it will take me a lot of time so you saved me
I wish I had access to a Micro Center here on Vancouver Island (my bank account is happy that I don't though)!
Is there any short List with the Options?
very brief and helpful
Wish I had a micro center near me
Can you buy more than 1 printer at that price, or is it just 1 per customer?
Not only do you need upgrades to do this, even the speed as I would challenge that 120 figure outright frankly running spec extr variations, but also you’re not going to be able to use lightening on everything. If you’re trying to present a way to prototype print quicker, that’s more appropriately titled. But these settings even for hobbyist wouldn’t be sufficient so it’s misleading.
Perfectly fine the with sponsor I get why you said the more printer stuff - fully support that. But why not integrate that in a more actionable way? You could use the prototype angle and compared the result with a non prototyped angle. There’s ways to make this feel less like a bait and switch and extremely useful.I only say this bc I know you’re not only capable but would think of an effective way.!
If microcenter would build a store In Tennessee I would go there.
how much do you usually heat up your nozzle for PLA if the build time is longer than 5 hours?
I am 100% noob at printing. If someone new does these setting will things still work? Or depending on what you want to print needs different settings?
Great video. Thank you.
That helped so much
I purchased the 2v Neo last week. I followed all setup videos and pla not sticking to flex plate.
What acceleration are you running?
Why does MicroCenter not have a store in the SF bay area? Silicon Valley, man! Respect your roots! I'd love to shop at MC, but not enough to drive seven hours 😭
Agreed! I hate driving over the Altamont from Stockton but I'd do it if I could get the micro center deals.
Microcenter needs to replace the Fry's that were in the San Francisco area. After Fry's closed, it left all those buildings just waiting for another person to come and take up all the customers that went there.
HI - I want to 3D print a mould for a statue of a cat 600mm height in brass.
I want the walls of the statue to be around 3mm thickness.
I think I have to cast the statue in parts and TIGweld them togather to a whole statue.
The mould is way too big for my Creality CR10s PRO.
How can I divide the staue in parts printable on my printer ?
Any ideas ?
how to get the nozzle I see on your video?
I like how the music sounds like I just unplugged something from the USB slot.
Now I finally found a store where to buy filament