3D Printer Problem: do you know How to Fix Z-Wobble?
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- čas přidán 15. 12. 2023
- Wobbly prints and prints with lines... How you fix it? It can be many things (trust me, every time is a different reason). That's why I loved the Book I showed in this video. It will help you a lot, specially if you are just beginning with 3D Printing:
"3D Printing Failures" Book
by Sean Aranda
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Grease for 3D Printers Lubrication
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Sunlu S2 Filament Dryer
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Sunlu S1 Filament Dryer
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* Sunlu S4 is not available for sale yet
my review: • SUNLU Filament Dryer S...
Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro - 3D Printer
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Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro
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Orange PETG filament from Sunlu:
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* this is the filament you saw all the time in the video
Sunlu has many more colors in this link too
Orange PLA filament from Sunlu:
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* Same orange color, but in PLA
Sunlu has many more colors in this link too
More Gifts for Makers:
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How to fix Z-Binding on 3D Printers
How to fix Z-Wobble on 3D Printers
My 3D Printer is printing bad
#3DPrinter #3DPrinting #Ender3 - Věda a technologie
![tattoo printer tutorial[제품단순선물]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/g40_GwEJak0/mqdefault.jpg)
New to 3D printing. Oh dear god what did I get myself into.
Oh, you got yourself in a delicious tortuous path of maddening learning 🤣❤️ Enjoy, my friend. Highly addictive for tinkerers.
I really like how you engage and solve the problem, makes me feel like a participant. Usually people just go straight into the problem and give some generic solution with little depth. Also I appreciate the book recommendation, goes immediately into my shopping basket. ❤
Oh, thank you! I am happy you enjoyed the storytelling of the process! I had to reenact some of it - the only thing I had REALLY recorded well at the time was the parts that were getting out of the printer, and not much more.
My big brother is a Great teacher!!! Teaching using questions and making everyone start thinking with him! Perfect storytelling!!!
🤭 Bro… you are selling me too well 😂
The journey of finding this problem mimics a lot of my experience with FDM printers. You start getting a bit crazy after a while, bordering into the realm of superstition. Great job engaging us all the way through, I love a good problem to try and noodle on.
Happy Holidays
Thanks! Absolutely - printers got so much better recently, but even so: from time to time you get at least very puzzling models that refuse to print the way you hoped. I enjoy the mastery of the hobby (when you are not running against the clock). Happy holidays for you and your loved ones 🎄❤️
"Bordering on the realm of superstition" is soooo true about this hobby. 😂
@@4thfrom7I was going to say the exact same. 👌 They nailed it with that description. I then proceeded with my ritualistic chanting around my Z axis in prayer as i begin my next print 😅😅 (I think I should see someone about this habit LOL)
Remember to recite your daily canticles.
All hail the omnissiah
Ran a 100 Ender 3 farm at one point. The problem you're experiencing is due to debris inside the threads of the brass Z-Rod guide. You have to disassemble and remove the rod to clean the brass threads inside the guide. Cleaning and lubricating the rod without disassembly can move the debris out of the threads in the brass, but eventually the debris will build up again and cause the issue. As you can imagine the issue can present itself more often in a dusty environment . Also, sometimes the rods are over greased from the factory and debri sticks to the grease and gunks up the brass guide.
Wow! I loved your advice: hard to beat the experience of running a Big printing farm 👍 Do you have a favorite way of cleaning the Rods?
@@GeekDetour hot water, Dawn detergent, and a bristle brush. Dry the rod (and brass guide) completely with a super absorbent car-wash microfiber towel that leaves no lint behind and then LIGHTLY spray one THIN coat of Corrosion X Lubricant. She'll glide smooth and need little maintenance after that.
Oh, you really take the rods off and treat them good! I only did that twice in one printer. I want to try POM nuts, it seems they should run dry.
@@GeekDetour never tried the POM nuts, but if they work, they work. Now I'm curious about them again. I may order a set. Sigh, the tinkering never ends 😅
Did this solve the problem?
Lead screw binding typically manifests as a regular repeating pattern that matches the lead distance of the screw. One thing not mentioned is that debris in the extruder can cause this as it will change the flow rate while printing.
omffffffffffffffg
thx so much...im an expert, but am the biggest newbie at the same time, seing this.
just came back to say that i had this problem, although not as severe, and took your advice and loosened the screws. made a massive difference right off the hope. printing so much better now. thank you for making this video.
That’s so nice to know! Thanks for sharing it with me ❤️Merry Christmas 🎄
Yep, you nailed it. I spent the better part of a year trying to pinpoint this issue on my S1 and even went to the extreme of installing oldham couplers and anti-backlash nuts on the printer - neither of which made an appreciable difference and if anything, those parts (or at least the way I installed them) contributed more to the rods binding than they did to resolve anything. I retained the oldham couplers but loosened the screws on the gantry as you said, and also removed the anti-backlash nuts, assuming the additional thread and spring pressure were adding friction to the rods. Immediate improvement to the part surface. My thanks for your fantastic troubleshooting!
You have no idea how much I loved reading your comment! Thanks! Very often, when I am working on a video, I overthink things… and imagine: “geeez, isn’t this super boring, or trivial?!” 🤣 Crazy how adding parts, even when they are designed to improve, can actually make it worse. I am happy for you!
Wow. Thank you so much! This is the second time you've saved my prints. I encountered the mysterious blobs issue a while back and after seeing your video, reformatted the SD card I use and got smooth prints again (I now assume memory fragmentation made it slow, as it had been used for astrophotography with many write/erase/rewrite cycles).
Now, I had a slight layer shift issue, so slight that I couldn't tell if it was Z binding or actual layer shift.
I adjusted the bolts on my rods like you did out of despair after trying everything, and it now prints good as new!
Thank you so much for making these videos. They are treasures of information, so well explained and documented, so useful!
Wow 🤩 I read your comment two days ago - only had time to answer now. THANK YOU! You made my day. Each video takes A LOT of time… and sometimes you wonder if it is really worth the effort. Messages like yours give me strength to go on❤️
That was a great diagnostic video and a thoroughly logical approach to solving a 3D printer issue. You are so right when you say "if you don't like doing 3D diagnostics, you won't like 3D printing". I easily spend a lot of time in diagnostic mode with mine. Above all else though, I really liked your colour palets, it just made the whole thing that more enjoyable to watch. You must have spent days printing all these test parts.
Oh the book author is Sean the "3D Print General" who has been banned from CZcams for intransparent and likely bogus reasons, big machinery gone wrong. I'm sure he'll appreciate the support.
Yeah, I’ve been following his drama and it scares the B-Jesus out of me! I hope it helps a bit 👍🍀
It was not in-transparent. It was because he had discussed printing firearms on his channel.
@@johnbeima6413 That's not against the rules. Major channels like Vox have also shown 3D printed guns.
@@SianaGearz Actually it is. :) Read the new terms. He even mentioned he had been warned about it before.
he had already previously deleted his firearm related videos months ago to hedge his bets and make sure, and tried unsuccessfully to communicate with youtube directly to ensure he was in compliance. none of that mattered and they still banned him without cause. i dont know why youre so invested in caping for a huge tech company without even getting paid for it@@johnbeima6413
I really loved how you tackled the problem you found yourself in. Also it's great to see another video upload from you again in such a long time as well. Wishing you a happy holidays Geek. :)
Thank you so much! ❤️🎄🎊🎉
excellent tutorial! 👏
Adrian! Thanks man! ❤️ Merry Christmas for you and Mihai 🎄🎁
I just got my copy of Sean's book today and after flipping through just a few pages it became obvious why this is a must have item for any 3D printer user. Thank you so much for recommending it.
I am using an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max. Fortunately it's a newer revision so several of the issues that were being reported seem to have been mostly fixed. I am experiencing some minor quality issues with my prints but at least I know about Z-binding now and am hopeful that some lubrication on the rods will clear it up before it gets any worse.
Great work!
I am glad you liked Sean’s book - I bought mine in July last year and I really thought it deserved more exposure. But I had to wait for the right video to show it. 🤗
Hi again. I finally got a print I'm happy with and just need to sort out some minor Z-binding. I was wondering if there is a specific type and / or brand of lubricant you recommend? I am fairly certain all that is happening is minor Z-binding but until I grease the rods I won't really know lol.@@GeekDetour
I actually love troubleshooting problems like this. Even though it can get rather frustrating, the satisfaction after you find the problem and come up with a solution is wonderful. I fought a stubborn over extrusion issue in my anycubic kobra 2 for months. I calibrated the esteps multiple times and they were dead on. Temp changes didn't help and it happened with every filament. It happened from brand new and out of the box. I was able to mitigate it with flow settings in cura but i constantly had to adjust them as no single flow rate resolved it. One printe might work great at 95% whereas another world be best at 70%. It was maddening. I went through 5 brand new nozzles so that couldn't be it... could it? I finally changed to standard volcano nozzles and low and behold flow is dead on now.
Oh yeah! The A-ha moment after a maddening chase… LOVE IT! Thanks for sharing!
Hey, I’m having the same issue with my Kobra Plus that has a volcano. When you say standard volcano nozzles are you meaning like the genuine e3d nozzles fixed the problem or something else? Thanks!
I am having this exact same problem, could i add you in discord or literally anything so I can send you pics and you can potentially confirm its the issues? New to FDM and have Kobra 2, everything was going fine but now I'm getting very frustrated.
No matter what happened to the printers... your voice IS so great!
Wow! Thank you so much @FPV-Drones 🤗 You made my day!
It's crazy that this was uploaded so recently. I got this exact issue and was debugging it and then I found this. Also, excellent frikkin video my dude. Extremely useful and easy to digest information
Oh, thank you! 🤗 I guess there will be always a lot of people debugging this problem 🤣 Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
When David Altenburg retires, you can take his place as a narrator. But to be fair, very, very detailed and well made video!
My goodness! I wish! For me, a documentary only feels like a REAL documentary when it has Attenborough’s voice. He is awesome! Thanks ❤️
Your storytelling is impeccable, love it!
That is very kind, thank you! Welcome to the channel and have a lovely Christmas 🤶🎄🎁🎉🎊🥂
I had this problem on a Ultimaker 2+ years ago and oddly I couldn't find any information about it online. But the dead giveaway was that the surface imperfections always happened at the same layer height. Thank you for taking the time to explain this!
Yeah, you are absolutely true: each Z-Lead Screws has an imperfection signature. We can make it less visible - but probably never really get 100% uniform and without ANY visible line when put under a harsh light. I’ve been thinking a lot about it… maybe I’LL come up with an idea to make it different.
Love your work man, the one about the accordion player is just pure class
MirageC has some great videos on this type of artifact and what problems can cause them.
Especially his wobbleX looks insane (although it requires a minimum weight that makes it useless for generic bedslingers)
Also take a look at oldham couplers for the 3 printers shown in the video, if you buy them in bulk it might only be $20 for the 3 of them
I watched all of them - love it! And in my mind all the 3 printers would immediately show the wobbliness in their prints starting to when I tightened their nuts. To be clear: on a very close inspection, it happened - but it was SO DISCRETE that was impossible to see it clearly on camera. The prints were in essence “perfect” or perfectly acceptable and nobody would point the finger and say: “what happened here?”. I wanted to show a guaranteed disaster and… depending on the printer you have, it might run just fine even with coupled nuts. Makes sense? But I will definitely start modding these printers just for fun - didn’t have time to do it this year, but in 2024 I’ll hack them to my taste.
@@GeekDetour i went to Oldham couplers a month after buying my ender 3 S1 because the wobble was bad enough to impact tolerances on parts I was making.
Prints look way cleaner although I still have some inconsistent layer stacking due to the extruder gears not being perfect. But i honestly didn't mind it as much until I got the vzhextrudort on my custom build which just made the sprite extruder look like shit in comparison.
But I guess every print looks shit when you shine a harsh enough light from directly above.😅
@@twanheijkoop6753 You shouldn't need oldham couplers. They account for radial misalignment. A 3D printer shouldn't have significant radial misalignment as it uses the motor shaft and bearings as the support point. They do have angular misalignment because the screw isn't inline with the shaft and the printer isn't usually aligned to it either. But the flex coupling accounts for that. An oldham would require a bearing to hold the shaft as well.
Another problem is if the printer supports the screw at both ends. It should only be supported at one end and by the nut, or the out of straightness will cause z-wobble.
Optionally if both ends are supported, the nut must float free, only two points of radial constraint are allowed to not over constrain it and cause lateral forces.
To minimize lateral forces the motor shaft should be parallel to the gantry frame (z). This could be measured by removing the coupler, mounting an indicator on the gantry, measuring the shaft, and moving it vertically. Turn the motor mounting in whichever direction eliminates the misalignment. Shims (paper would likely work fine) under the motor mounting may be needed. Then check the motor 90° to the first direction and align again, and then recheck the first direction. The motor being aligned will minimize bending of the flex coupling and side loading of the gantry as it flexes.
Next straighten the lead screw as best you can. Roll it on a flat surface like float glass and gently bend it straight if it is pretty bad. Shim gauges under the middle can help you get it even straighter than you can see. Really this and runout of the coupling or motor shaft are the only things that should cause z-wobble. Misalignment will cause forces on the gantry, but they won't change as the shaft rotates, so won't cause wobble.
The nut needs to be aligned to be centered with the motor shaft when they are as close together as you can get them. Loosen the nut screws and run the printer all the way to the bottom. Hang the nozzle off the edge of the bed if you can to get even closer. Then tighten the nut screws.
I don't have any troubles with this on the cheapest E3 made. I didn't bother straightening the screw, and the free end wobbles visibly as it rotates. But that is OK as only two connections don't transfer loads.
My Guess loose x y arms and also belts.
So glad I watched this. Once my current print finishes, I'm going to check these as I had noticed some of this chatter too.
Had the exact same issue on my S1, leveld the Z-Gantry again, the Z-Nuts were extremely tight on one side, adjusted the V-Wheels again and it works like it should again. Thanks for the video getting me to the point of failure
Short yet comprehensive. Thanks for the book tip, never heard of it until now. 3D printing is such an inspiration yet so many moving parts plus the job of printing our inventions, it's a big ask. no wonder it goes wrong but when it's right 🎉
Glad you enjoyed it! Yeah, in the end, it is like a tiny factory.
Nice video! I think one thing you could infer is that there could be some debris that somehow got into the lead screw nuts themselves. I noticed you were using brass nuts and I had that on my Ender 5 Plus initially. I decided to go with the anti backlash POM nuts instead and they did wonderfully. POM is self lubricating and has low friction that shouldn't cause much z binding.
Also, dual extruder gears could be an issue too as maybe the idler gear could be shifting side to side changing its effective extrusion rate. I know Mirage3D and some others did a video on that one. Hope this insight helps anyone and Happy Holidays! 😊
Absolutely! MIRAGE3D videos are a MUST! Thanks for the POM suggestion, it will be in my list to try out!
No prob! Hope they'll help you out. 😁
Oh, it has been printing nice since I recorded the incident. BUT I love to tinker
There's still a lot of people with machines like this so it's great that you address your problems with them.
Oh, thanks! That’s true! And you know what? For a lot of people, the most satisfied machines are the ones you can actually mess with, add stuff, change parts… It is cool to have a machine that does great and you just hit print… but I wouldn’t be happy without having at least one machine that is always open in a constant state of change.
Thanks. This makes sense about the z axis needing to be loose. I was a bit worried this morning when unblocking the extruder gears and hotend in my BBL P1S and seeing that the z screws were visibly loose inside the top bearing bushes
Can’t wait to try this when I get back from my vacation! I’ve had the same issue with my Neptune 3 Pro for a few months and couldn’t find a simple and easy way to troubleshoot. This should get me back on my game in no time!
Nice video. FYI those lead screw nuts don't only need adjustments occasionally, but they are considered a consumable part as well so they will need to be replaced periodically depending on your use. They're soft brass so they wear down relatively quickly if you're printing frequently.
All part of the process of owning and maintaining a printer 👍
Hi Dude! Yeah man, so true! People are commenting I should try POM nuts - I’ll give it s shot. Merry Christmas my friend! 🎄🎁
@@GeekDetour
Polyamide (PA) is a very durable material, I have often seen a polyamide gear wear out a hardened steel gear!
This material only seems weak, but in fact it is one of the most wear-resistant polymers
I've been using 3 of the same printers for over 3 years, they all have the exact same backlash nuts they came with. 6 months ago, I cleaned them for the first time. Still working perfectly.
@@LampDoesVideogame that's awesome. Not sure how often you print or if you're just still within tolerance but I can assure you it's a wear part, that's how they're designed. They're made of soft brass.
I chased this demon exactly like you. I found it to be inconsistent extrusions between layers due to a deformed/off center extruder gear. Also sometimes certain colors show layers more than others
Oh man, extruder issues are a whole category of demons! It really needs to be precise otherwise it is pure frustration.
You are the first video i found that answered my problem. Thank you! There are so many videos that lead to a dead end. It's a relief to have an answer
Thanks Tyler! A few people were not happy that I spent half of the video showing what was NOT the problem… but I think that’s valuable, because many “defects” look identical, but have very different roots… Showing just one ends up in a bunch of VERY specific videos. I am glad it helped you ❤️
I enjoyed your thorough description of a problem with many possible variables. Thank you for the video. Subscribed!
Hey, my pleasure! This video is reassuring me that I am not a dumb guy making a video about something everybody already knows - or won’t care… I really appreciate the message! Welcome to the channel 👍❤️
Once the z-axis lead screws are setup straight and rotate without wobble through the up/down gantry travel shouldn’t those z guide bolts be tightened? Otherwise wouldn’t you induce a little more slack in the z-axis? Great video, it seems indeed z-axis binding was the culprit.
You definitely don't want to leave them all loose, it will add significant uncertainty in Z height especially if you are using Z Hop (i.e. Z axis changes direction during printing)
dont ever use lithium grease for your z rods..... use dry teflon lube.
Thank you for the cool video. I've been chasing layer lines for a while now on most of my machines. Not as bad as the first piece you displayed but now I have another part of setup to check that I didn't think of.
I hope you can fix it to your satisfaction 🤞🍀 Merry Christmas Steven 🎁🎄
Remarkable timing. This just popped up as im in the middle of a massive job. 5 printers, 24/7 for 3 months ... just started noticing a bit of z binding but didnt know what it was, and them this video shows up... thanks ! Also i will be buying that book!
Hi Andre, Andrew? 🤗 Thanks man! I am glad it came for you in the right moment 👍 Please tell me later if it worked! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
Why dont you add more printers?
@@indalecio21 the reason im limited to 5 printers is electricity and space. We keep them all in 1 office to regulate temperature and while we could fit more on the tabls there is only only enough circuits for 5 printers and a laser. We had plenty of time before prints are being used so rather than dedicate another office to printing im just playing the slow game lol. Also we normally dont do large volume printing so i dont want to be stuck with 8 machines that wont get used.
As an experienced user, I will say that most of the errors are related specifically to the controller board. These errors disappear after a long period of inactivity or other shamanism with a tambourine and dancing)
I loved “shamanism” It works. Of course 🤣
Merry Christmas my friend🎄🎁
That’s good to know, tightening everything isn’t the solution. Some things are meant to work loose. It emphasizes the importance of knowing how to troubleshoot your own printer. 👍
Yeah, that’s the take away here! Troubleshooting and maintenance 👍 Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
I had exactly such a problem. I was about to research this. And all the ways you tried came to my mind and I was going to try them. I've tried it before but I was going to test it again. After watching this video, I remembered that I saw that those screws were loose and tightened them. Thanks to you my guess was proven. Thank you for sharing this video, my friend. I subscribed and see you in your other videos.. 🙃☺
The screws on the LeadScrew Nut must be loosen. The nut must be able to move sideways.
@@GeekDetour Yes, but at the same time, my z eccentric nuts were also tight. When I loosened both of them, it was fixed. thanks a lot again
Your video really hooked me, i was really impressed with the quality of your video, keep it up man!
Thanks! It means a lot to me ❤️ Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones! 🎄🎊🎉
00:03 Identifying and fixing 3D printer line issue
00:55 Identifying and fixing 3D printer printing issues
01:56 Maintain consistent temperature for better 3D printing
02:49 Loosened Lead Screw Nuts to fix Z-Wobble
03:47 Z-Binding is a common problem in 3D printers
04:41 Tightening the nuts resolved the 3D printer problem
05:37 Proper printer adjustment leads to quality prints
06:34 Troubleshoot 3D printer problems effectively
4:40 He didn’t tighten the nuts. He LOOSENED them and made it clear they should be loose!
This sounds like you fed the subtitles to ChatGPT and asked it to mark chapters
You just wrote two different titles that contradict each other... "Loosened lead screw nuts to fix Z-Wobble" then "Tightening the nuts resolved the issue". Huh???? He didnt tighten the nuts to "resolve the issue" he was just trying to recreate it which helped him conclude the different factors that may have combined to cause the problem.
A very cool video! I like the way you explain things and walk the viewer through the video.
Keep it up!
Thanks!!! I’ll keep doing it, yeah! I love making videos about 3D Printing and Arduinos (I am neglecting Arduinos, I have so many things in my list!)
I noticed exactly this layer inconsistencies with my ender as well. Have to check the nuts and lubrication. Thank you so much!!!
Your problem trying to reproduce the binding issue reminded me of something I discovered as a beta tester for a camera flash wireless trigger. I'm not saying that you are having the same problem, just that it was a problem that appeared under very specific conditions.
The design had a slide in battery tray. The tray had a arrow like shape at the end of the tray. In combination with the internal latch allowed of the battery tray to be locked in place when you pushed the tray into the cavity. Pushing again on the tray would release the latch and a spring would push out the tray a few centimetres. It was a satisfying mechanism to use.
When I unboxed it it worked properly. But after a few days it stopped working. It would unlatch and release the battery tray. But when putting the battery tray back in it would not lock in anymore. All the radios had the same problem.
What I determined was that it was a humidity problem. If I would blow into the battery compartment, after a minute, the latch would work properly again. Wait a couple of hours and the problem would return.
I received the radios in January, in winter. Winters are cold and dry here. At the time I measured the indoor humidity to be about 10% relative humidity. What was happening was the plastic was drying out and that affected the operation of the latching mechanism. The manufacture had not experienced anything like this in their development. They were in Hong Kong and they never experience such dry conditions there.
They did a slight design change and their second beta units, and later production, never experience the same failure.
Amazing story! Thank you so much for taking the time to write it down and share it with me/us all ❤️ I enjoy troubleshooting - and product development seems SO COOL. Unless everybody is with a tight deadline 😬
Subscribed! I appreciate you showing your initial mistakes until finding the correct solution...thank you!
So great that you liked it 🤗 Very often I get the opposite in some comments: “Hey man! Go straight to the point! Don’t tell us a story!”
I love your videos. They are beautifully put together and your voice is so easy for me to focus on. It's smooth as silk. 😄
Oh, thank you! Very kind words!! I hope you had a beautiful Christmas 🎄🤗
I find his voice annoying.
Superb video ! I have only been in the 3D printing wolrd for less than a month and this really helped me figure out some inconsistencies on my prints. Thanks for the book link also.
Hello! Happy 2024 🥂🎉 Oh, I am so happy my vídeo helped you in your journey! Thanks for letting me know! Welcome to the channel! I have lots of 3D Printing experiments on the go - they take time, but I am very optimistic because I finally have a much better space to work 🤗
Thank you for covering other sources of issues, as one of my prints suffered the wavy lines of the heat fluctuation rather than the z binding. I was struggling to diagnose it before this video.
So nice to know it helped you, even when it was not the very same culprit of mine! Thanks for sharing. Yeah, wavy layers can happen for several reasons and in that occasion, for me was the un-lubricated lead screws and nuts starting to bind - but I don't want people thinking that's the only reason, because definitely it is not.
Hello Sir! Thanks for such a useful explanation. You acted like an actor, despite that fact you are engineer, respect! I have never seen such a guide which is recorded by heart! Just respect!
Hey, thank you so much! ❤️ If by heart you mean that I love it, that’s true: I am completely in love with 3D Printing since I got my first printer. Now, if “by heart” you mean “by memory”, here is the trick: when I try to memorize my points and speak them out, I basically freeze and I forget so much stuff… I write down the complete texts for my videos - when I record, I am actually reading. English is not my first language, so, I use a teleprompter 🤗
@@GeekDetour I meant overall work: 3D print engineering and also video recording. Keep it on!
P.S. English is not my native language also. Hello from Uzbekistan 👋👋
Wow! That’s… awesome! Cheers from Spain 🇪🇸 (I am actually from Brazil 🇧🇷, but we came to Spain 14 years ago).
I’ve been struggling with my printer. I’ve upgraded what once was a Cr-10 V3 to now have a better hot end that can handle higher temperatures. E3D’s REVO Creality with the Obxidian nozzle.
It has sadly been failing and like this video, I think I find the problem only for it to fail again. I’m still learning about this hobby and have only been in it for a couple of years now. I really appreciate this video.
Whether it’s an answer to what could be wrong, I don’t know, but it’s full of a variety of things I’ve yet to check. I’ll also take a look at that book.
Thank you! I love the way you explained things in the video. Very helpful.
I had the same issue with my prints on an Ender 3. I lubricated the Z axis rods and tightened everything I could find.
Of course it's the one thing that's supposed to be loose that was the issue, it probably was tight from binding up and I just secured it more.
Thank you so much.
My pleasure man! Thanks for sharing!
Really enjoyed the video.. Appreciate the time taken.... Been printing for a number years and it’s always good to learn more...
Great to hear that! Welcome to the channel and Merry Christmas!
Fantastic video man. Lovely how those issues just creep up on you
Thanks! What you mean man? It happens to you too! (ha ha ha, I hope) I just like to talk about them 🤣 Merry Christmas @UncleJessy Always nice to see you here 🎄🍾🥂
Thank you very much for making this video! I had this issue since i installed direct drive mod on ender 3 v2 neo. I tried everything but this solution finally fixed those ugly lines 🙏
Oh! So great it helped you! Thanks for telling me! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
Thank you for this video. I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro, so I'll have to keep an eye out for this binding issue. So far, it's printing fine. 🤞
Keep it lubricated, don’t let it stay unused - I like mine a lot.
I love the way you say merry Christmas that was really good after problem solving
When we are having a problem and someone helps us to fix it, feels like a Christmas Gift, doesn’t it? 😁 🎄🎅 🎁 Thanks!
My first 3D prints were horrible. From bad calibration to bad PLA filaments, humidity, bad spare parts from factory, software config issues, my own 3d files not well done, etc.
I solved those problems, and my ender 3 prints quite well, but too much hours spent on and no works done after all, thats why i quit and i only see videos, for entertain and learn more.
PD: Absolutly amazing channel you have man, good job, and amazing book too, subscribed!
Than you Adrian! Oh man, I hope you can give it a new try again soon - there are amazing new printers that give you excellent results with little headaches. Bambu Lab sent me a P1S and it is such a great machine. Sure, everything needs maintenance to keep working fine. But their profiles are so well tuned… it is a breeze to print.
@@GeekDetour I think the ender 3 is still a smart choice to start in this world, but as you say (totally agreed) there are more new printers, with better results and less headbaches.
Greetings from Spain!
Greetings from Guadalajara (Spain too 🇪🇸) 🤣
Great video thank you and really easy to follow. Thank you for sharing your experiences and fixes.
That ‘s kinda deep research with insane solutions ,thank you!
Oh, I am happy you mention that - yeah, these videos take A LOT of time to be made 😅
This is super helpful! Just got into 3d printing 4 days ago, got myself a 2nd hand Ender 3 PRO. And golly I've had some print quality issues. I started with calibrating my e-steps, then bed leveling. With just those 2 things, the print quality improved but there are still imperfections in the printed product.... Will watch more of your videos hopefully to achieve better results. Thanks!
I am so happy you enjoyed the video - and Welcome to 3D Printing!!! You probably already figured out how addictive this thing is… be careful: one printer becomes two… then 4… you risk getting a divorce or having to move to a bigger place 😄
@@GeekDetour woahhhh didnt expect a reply from you! It is very addicting. I doubt the divorce part since my wife is enjoying it more than I do. 2nd printer is on its way even tho I havent mastered this one yet lol. Greay channel and great vids! Looking forward to more of your content.
That’s beautiful! 🫶 Enjoy the printers, my friend. And if you spend some time watching tutorials, learning Fusion 360 (you can create a free hobby account) is will 100% be worth your effort. It is such a satisfaction to design your very own functional parts and do nice fixes and improvements in your house. Have a beautiful 2024 🥂 More videos coming soon!
I don't have a 3d printer, but this video is so well done, it is exciting to watch even for a non printing geek!
I am so happy you enjoyed it even without having a 3D Printer. Please, stay far from the printers… you’ve been warned! Extremely addictive hobby 🤣
This is a seriously well researched and executed video! Sincerely impressed.
Oh, thank you! That means a lot to me; because it is true: some videos get in the making for many months until I get the idea mature ❤️
Great video, awesome voice, that's a hit for me. Instant subscription, wouldn't want to miss following videos :)
Oh, thanks! 🤗 My voice is getting “older” quite fast - I am afraid I’ll sound like an old mafia boss that just whispers, quite soon. Enjoy my past videos - you can probably watch everything in one evening 🤣
You are my lifesaver! My ender3 is not only having this issue, it would stick at a certain point and not going up anymore, now this is also solved, thank you!!!❤❤
Your video deserves more attention, all others says to get tighter, but you the opposite one.
Thank you VERY much for letting me know how it helped you! It makes me supper happy!
Oh, this video is getting traction very well - I think it will reach the attention it needs to change most of the (bad) advice people share around. It is not the first video telling that the nuts must be loosened - but it is already, by far, the most watched one in the topic. I cannot ask for more 🤗
After your explanation, I agree, dirt is probably the greater culprit. Just goes to show that adding grease is not the only chore. You need to occasionally REMOVE the old grease in order to keep the rods free of grit.
Thanks for sharing this mate, it was really helpful
Thanks!!! It means a lot!
Your voice is so soothing to listen to. Great video.
Oh thank you so much! Specially about the voice 🥰 🤣 Merry Christmas 🎄🎁🥂🎊
I am going to have to check on this. I am having a very similar issue. Thank you for making this video. Im not sure I would have ever tried loosening the acme nut
Thanks, you actually helped me, I tried everything and this was the cause.
I am so happy it helped you!!! ❤️ Thanks for letting me know!
Thank you for the link that helps me a lot.
Happy to help! Happy 2024! 🥂🎊
Man!!! that was EXACTLY the poblem I had Thanks for the tips, you're awsome!
Omg thank you so much I would never have figured out why this was happening to me this was a godsend
My pleasure to help. Important: on the video I showed some of the most popular reasons that can give you this type ugly result. It doesn’t mean yours WILL be the same. Check the mechanics, be sure everything moves smooth without play. Dry your filament, do the PID calibration once (learn how to do it for your printer) and be sure your Z-Nuts are not tight. I hope you can find your problem and be proud of your improvement. Oh, lubricate the rods 😄 Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
That book is a necessary guide. Purchased. Thanks!
Hope you enjoy it! 🤗 I bought mine in July and only now I had the right video to go with it 🤣
Was about to ask the same question to reddit. Super helpful!!!
Oh thanks! Merry Christmas 🎄🎁🤗
The thumbnail is like my ender 3 vs my a1 mini quality comparison.
Thank you for the video Geek Detour!
Glad you like it! 🤣👍 Loved the comparison 🤣 Merry Christmas 🎄🎁 and welcome to my channel!
Thank you so much I have had that problem with ender 3v2 and didn’t know what to do but now it is fixed 😅
I am so happy that it helped you!! 🤗 Happy 2024! 🥂🎊🎉
omg ive been having so many issues with my ender 3 s1 pro after a few months of use which all seemed to accumulate after installing my sonic pad, and this just helped me fix one of the issues, planning on buying that book you showed off in the video now
also didnt know those nuts were supposed to be loose
Thank you for posting this. I have had this same issues with my printer. I did all the checks u could find online and nothing fixed it. I will be checking this out.
I spent months trying to figure it out. I gave up and a week later I see this, thank you so much
You're very welcome! 😂 I am happy it helped you!
That was smoooth troubleshoot brah, you earned new sub! :)
Thank you so much for shouting out my book! I really appreciate it!! Hopefully CZcams doesn't delete this account too haha.
Sean! Hey man! So good to see you here - by the way, if you take a look at your LinkedIn, you will see a connection request from me - I will be very happy if you consider accepting it 🤗 Yeah, I bought your book in July and it looked like people would have so much less frustration if they had such a guide in their hands. I just needed the right video to coincide with its idea - it finally happened. Happy Christmas, Sean! 🎄🎁🥂🍀🎉🎊
@@GeekDetour Just logged into Linked In and replied! Merry Christmas indeed!
Weird because I have Creality CR-10 I purchased in early 2017, I did some initial lubricating, belt adjustment, leveling, etc in the first few months and have not done ANY maintenance other than dusting in almost six years and it still prints beautifully.
Thanks a lot! When I assembled my CR10V3, those nuts were extremely loose. At the time, I was told by many CZcamsrs to tighten every loose bolts on 3d printer so I did.....
The advice is correct, for structural things. The body of the printer should be as rigid as possible. But v-slow wheels have an ideal pressure: should just tight enough to not have wobbliness, but tighter than that is bad. The z-Nuts on the ideal world should be tight. But in most printers, having them a bit lose allowing free lateral movement is better than really tight. One thing is certain: lubrication is really important.
happy i found this video, great video by the way. i am having exact same problem and it is driving me crazy; will try to do the things mentioned in the video, and in the following months will get the book, as i really need it.
Thank you! I hope you can figure it out and have great prints soon! 🤗
Love the sound design in this vid
Oh, THANK you!!! Sound is so important to me - but it goes pretty much unnoticed (at least on a conscious level). You made my day ❤️
I had this with my Prusa mini, when I build the KIT I tightend the screws to hard for the Z-Axis bearings. After losening them and allow play it worked well.
My initial guess, not having read any other comments, I'm 0:20 seconds in.
Check your belt tension. That's my initial gut reaction. It could also be the tension of the bed screws (one coming loose) or the tension of the x axis. Something is loose, I believe.
edit: HAHA! Nooooo.
to be fair, it was based on ONLY the print. I didn't have any info other than the first 24 seconds or so. That was fun, actually. As someone that is constantly helping people fix their printers on reddit, that was fun. Subscribed.
Thanks!!! I am glad you enjoyed the game ❤️
This video has helped me to save quite a bunch of money and unnecessary parts replacing!
Hmmm. I will have to look into my dual z parts. Never knew the bearing rod supports were not to be tight. THANK YOU 🙏
Looookkk at that INCRIDIBLE VINTAGE TOP 258 SUPERLUX MIC!!!!! SOOOO NICE!!!!
Yeah! Superlux Top 258 - legendary (yet cheap) Shure SM58 “clone”. How do you know that!? 🤣 Hi brother! Remember when we bought this mic? 20… maybe 25 years ago?! Still sounds great!
@Geek Detour
Very good tips! I have a similar problem. The top of the Z-Axis move heavy if I printing small infill. I print a pat to stabilize the Z-Axis on the top. Now my print looks much better. I using Ender 3 V2 Neo with one Z-Axis.
Thanks! My Ender 3 has been doing this for a while and I've been looking for a fix.
Great info. Book is very helpful.
Hi Jerry! My pleasure! I am glad you enjoyed the book - I bought mine in July 2023 and I was waiting for a good matching video to talk about it!
i bought the book soon after buying my printer and it has saved my butt more times than i can count
It is a very nice book! Sean surely put lots of time into it!
There's a mod for the ender that replaces the rod to z-movement transition with a part that uses magnets. Totally cancelling out any xy movement from the lead screw. Think it was the guy that made the hextrudort that made it
Thanks. I've been having a similar issue. It's even different on 2 identically built machines and that error is not in the 3D Print General book.
Each machine is different… in theory, it shouldn’t. But reality is hard 😬 Did you have the book before or you just got it? Tell me your honest opinion about it.
PS: I learned a few things… but the more experienced you are, the less things are new.
mine are loose but still i can find the same issue ! i never saw and temp issue while observing the temps so never bothered to do PID calibrations, i think i just need to lube my machine a little cause everything is tight and the z binding is exactly like you showed , maybe thats the issue , thank you for this great video and merry christmas bro !
I hope you can make it better! Merry Christmas to you too! 🎄🎊🎉🥂🍀🎁
excellent video tutorial. i find this video very helpful. thanks
Thanks! 🤗 My pleasure!
Clever 👍 that's why I tight only one screw on each side of my cheap printer, even levels not show proper, on first look it's very complicated but with trial and error can get
I just bought the book, thanks!!
Hope you like it! ❤️🎄I bought mine in July and I am happy I could finally had the time to talk about it