3D Printer Blobs: a mysterious problem you won't guess how to fix 🤔
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- čas přidán 6. 05. 2024
- Your 3D Printer can be printing low quality prints because of "Power Loss Recovery". But how?? Surface quality depends on smooth movements, but 'Power Outage Resume' constantly writes data to the SD-Card and, depending on the complexity of the model, it causes sudden stops. Let's see how we can fix it!
Disable / Enable "Power Loss Recovery" in your Printer
Instructions and GCODE files for download:
▶︎ geekdetour.com/3d-printing/bl...
SHORT CLIP:
▶︎ czcams.com/users/clipUgkxsyi9R1Yz...
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Videos I mentioned:
CNC Kitchen
(How) I finally got rid of these blobs!
▶︎ • (How) I finally got ri...
Chris's Basement
Power Loss Recovery - BTT UPS Module
▶︎ • Power Loss Recovery - ...
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0:00 3D Printed Blobs
1:00 Wet Filament?
1:20 Randomised Seam?
1:55 Blobs Close-up
2:29 High-Poly?
4:18 "Power-loss Recovery"
5:13 How Power-loss Recovery works
6:48 How to Disable Power-loss Recovery
7:10 Better Way
7:36 SD Cards cause Blobs
7:46 OctoPrint causes Blobs
3D Printer Blobs: a mysterious problem you won't guess how to fix 🤔
“Power-loss Recovery” can cause Blobs on your 3D Printer (and how to fix)
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Written, Performed and Produced by Everson Siqueira
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#3DPrinter #ElegooNeptune3 #Ender3Pro - Věda a technologie
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Better yet, stop buying pre built garbage and build your own and you’ll understand the mechanics and probably build a better machine.
There must have been a firmware update to the Neptune 3 printers since you make this video. I just got the Neptune 3 plus and to turn off “Power-loss Recovery” before you print go to "Settings" then "Advanced Settings". You can also turn it off while printing under "Settings" button on the printing page.
@@glennedward2201Can you recommend one I can build myself?
😊😊😊
Your videos are so well done and interesting.
Just thought I would tell you!
Thanks for the tips! 😊
By the way, Everson. Did you know that Jesus Christ died on the Cross for your sins? And He did so because He loves you very very much! And in fact, He made you! With His hands he formed you. For it is written: "And the LORD God formed man of the dust of the ground, and breathed into his nostrils the breath of life; and man became a living soul."
So never think that your life is meaningless or does not have a purpose!
Because it in fact has a very very GREAT purpose!
And that purpose is to know and understand our Creator.
You should read the Holy Bible! Possibly starting with the Book of Matthew (or John). Genesis is also a great start!
But the New Testament tells us what God's goal is for mankind, which is for us to be saved!
For the wages of sin is death; but the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ our Lord.
There is a lot of peace in knowing God.
I hope that you come to know Him.
God bless you, Everson.
"And there is salvation in no one else, for there is no other name under heaven given among men by which we must be saved." Acts 4:12
I don't even own a 3D printer, but your way of explanation bought me. Nice job
Wow! That makes me extremely happy! ha ha ha Thanks!
I just clicked on the video being 100% sure that this comment would be on top.
Same lol
Same here :)
Lol we ain't mad scientists haha
I don't own any 3D printer or had any project on it, but I think in this world there's some people who are frustrated with these kind of problem but had no clue about it but thanks to you they found the solution! Great video!
Thanks!!! 🤗
OMG! Only now I noticed you made a donation without even having a 3D Printer! This was beautifully unexpected - thank you for the support! 🤯
Money
Money
If they wanted to find a solution they could find it on Google. This guy made this video not out of charity, he's earning money from it.
Another option would be to use arcs instead of lots of little segments. That would decrease the amount of gcode needed in any given time period significantly, to the point that you could probably print that circular object with 2 lines of g-code per perimeter, one for the circle, and one to move the nozzle to the next starting point. Arcs still aren't well implemented by slicers from what I've seen, but they're getting better. I think biggest issue might be that most models are distributed in STL files which, as mentioned, don't have any curves so slicers need to attempt to figure out what's supposed to be a curve and what isn't. I think STEP files can do curves, so perhaps people should start using those more.
Your comment is SPOT ON! But firmware also needs to get better: ARC was not properly implemented for bed-level compensation: if you have a big arc, it seems only the edges would go up or down to follow the mesh… height changes that should occur in the middle were not applied at all…
But the future is bright 😃 For CAD models, step format must be supported for more slicers too: it seems only the PrusaSlicer Beta support them now.
@@GeekDetour Hmm, that's not great. I could have sworn STEP was more widely supported than that. Well, that explains why hardly anyone uses it, then.
It has been a bugbear of mine for ages that STL files are just inadequate for high-quality models. I think it started because it's an easy format to parse, so early slicers used it and it became the de-facto standard. PrusaSlicer does now import STEP files, but it polygonizes them before slicing, so it amounts to the same thing. A G-code command for b-splines already exists (G5), and I'm sure that plane/b-rep surface intersection is mathematically viable. I know slicing is a very difficult task full of corner-cases, so even if it just uses b-splines for the outer surface, that would be a big quality improvement.
plus if you're making a really curvy object you can also probably try and use splines for that
I've been using Arc Welder program / plugin. I had to update the firmware on my printer to support this but at the end the moves are certainly smoother!
This took me almost 2 weeks to figure out when I first started printing and was my exact problem. Glad this video has 2 million views so its easy for others to find.
I don't even know anything about 3D printing or have ever dabbled in printing myself.. but I can still confidently say this was a very informative and concise video! Earned a sub from a first time viewer with this video.
Thanks Logan! Welcome to the channel!!
Get a 3D printer they are fun
OMG! This one took me a long time to figure out and make an “accessible” video about it 😅
I would love to have some feedback!
In Cura printer settings -> Start G-Code : M413 S0 ; Disabled Resume after Power loss
Hey, I am changing to a Octopus board and I decided to use Klipper. From what I understand how Klipper works, the power loss recovery shouldnt be problematic here. What do you think?
I really liked the whiteboard explanation. Very effective.
This is the first video I watch on your channel and is... amazing! I'm sure that your content must be great after this. Thanks for sharing good quality videos!
This is the first time you've popped into my feed and I subscribed immediately. Great video!
I've never used a 3D printer and I only have the faintest idea of how it works, but I have a technical (software developing) background. Your video is very simple and well explained and made me understand the problem, causes and solutions perfectly. So congratulations on making such a great video =D
Oh, thanks!!! That’s very sweet! Let me tell you: don’t buy a 3D Printer!!! 😂 It is INCREDIBLY ADDICTIVE! There are lots of tiny details to learn and master - it is a fascinating journey! Buy one! I mean, don’t! You’ve been warned 🤣
Dude. You make next level content. Insanely informative. I can tell you are a highly intelligent individual and you do an EXCELLENT job at proportioning your information and explanations so it's digestible without being boring. 10/10
Oh man… 🤗 I really appreciated your kind words! I love making this type of content - I hope the channel grows enough to be financially viable. Videos like this, right now, are almost a mistake 🤑🤣 Oh, we moved to a house that we bought, with space for a bigger workshop - I am finally back to making more videos, so, subscribe!
Very clear and concise explanation! I ran into this issue when printing high-poly models off the SD card, but when I got OctoPrint setup the issue went away altogether. I always assumed OctoPrint was faster than my printer when processing GCODE commands, but I think that it must have been a crappy SD card. Fantastic video, and I'm sure it will help many people new to 3D printing.
Thanks Adam! Very kind words! 🤗
Octoprint doesn't really process the gcode, it just buffers it to the printer.
@@alanb76 you're right, though there are pre-processor plugins like Arc Welder and Octolapse that modify the geode before it gets sent off to the printer.
I have had this problem on $200-$2000 printers and have never seen as good of an explanation as you just gave good sir! Thank you so much for the advice, definitely going to try this. You just gained a new sub!
I’ve taken break from printing for too long. I feel encouraged now after watching this to do some printer maintenance and get back to making stuff.
Thank you!
Why is this video sped up?
The timelapse is incredible! I especially like the shot with the purple lighting. Could be a great screensaver! You have another subscriber, thanks for the interesting upload!
Thanks! I am glad you liked it - that timelapse video took way more time to make than I want to admit. Very few people watched it yet, though 🤣
People looking for the TimeLapse: czcams.com/video/pMK1nL0LGG0/video.html
One of the best produced 3DP videos I’ve seen. Bravo.
Oh, that's very sweet! Thanks!
Awesome video! I’m new to 3D printing and it feels like there’s a new hiccup with every other print, so this really helps. The problem solving has been quite fun, but it’s nice being able to discover content like this- easing future headaches lol
Now, If I may: as a sound geek, I would gently suggest an edit to your audio EQ. Namely lowering the Gain on your mic to minimize the clasping noises of the mouth (or if your gain is already low, I would point to using a low-pass filter), and a slight high-pass filter to lower the sibilance/ “S” noises. Nothing egregious, however. Your audio is more than passable as it is
Hi Jason! Thanks! The best part of 3D Printing is definitely the never-ending journey of learning.
Sound is another never-ending journey. Your comments are nice (and gentle, thanks!) Every person will Equalize on a very different taste. And the perception of a “good sound” will change a lot too depending on where the video is watched: mobile phone without headphones, in-ear headphones, headphones… and some headphones are very bass-heavy, others are more neutral… some lower-cost phones are more muffled. And there are TVs and Home Theaters (that if you go very “Pod-Casty Bass”, it sound very Boomy on Home-Theaters….
My audio chain has all you can imagine: de-hiss, compressor, too-low frequency cut… I hear the videos in many devices, a few headphones, on the living room - and I might favor a more aggressive high because it favors clarity of speech. A TV Broadcast audio engineer would probably change it a lot, but, then… he would use different microphones as well… Audio is infinite - just like 3D Printing 😄
Dude. Like one of the best pro tips ever. I figured this out kind of early on but didn't realize how key it was. People have such a hard time with printers, and I admit they are tricky contraptions but disabling this just for speed sake helped me I guess a lot more than I realized.
Worked on original Ender-3, prints look much cleaner. The printer is now actually usable for professional use and quality parts. Thank you!
Just got my ender 3 for under 200 and I've never been more pleased. Finally able to get into 3d printing
Will try it on my ender 3 pro tomorrow cant wait
I don't have this problem with my printer but on a whim I decided to click the video and I just LOVE how expressive you are! It glues me to my seat in the same way any good speaker does. Keep making awesome videos man, I'm definitely sticking around for them!
Thanks Henry! I am super happy you enjoyed it - and my crazy expressiveness 😁
Well this is oddly satisfying.
I don't own a 3D printer, have no plans to, but I love this kind of problem-solving. Your delivery is really interesting, and the whiteboard was fun
Thank you Erin! Wow, when I made the video I was so sure only people that owns 3D Printers would enjoy watching it 🤣
Shut up, Erin!
@@BeeEatingOrchid that was uncalled for? Are you OK?
@@GeekDetour I like videos on things that are outside my usual hobbies or expertise, maybe it's why I used to turn up at random uni lectures back in the 90s. Though I love the idea of owning a 3D printer I know I probably won't in the next 5 years, but it's worth getting to a little about the work that's happened and is happening to bring a technology into common use. Going to show this to dad, he was a precision manufacturing engineer up until around 2003. He'll love it
I had similar issue where my print was perfectly fine until it gets to a very narrow point where path is very short before moving onto the next movement and all of the sudden I had blobs on two specific corners of the print. Glad to know that it might just be a ram shortage issue.
Guess: Pressure in the Bowden tube after switching from the faster infill to the slower perimeters.
Or a too slow retraction when ending the perimeter, so filament still gets pushed out.
Solution: Enable Linear advance, less extreme differences between infill and perimeters and quick retractions.
Edit: I was wrong, my suggestions fall into the "randomized seam" category.
Oi Everson! Excelente vídeo! Uma boa alternativa para imprimir peças com alta quantidade de polígonos e sem a necessidade de desabilitar o power loss recovery é o pluguin Arc Welder(tem no cura). O que ele faz é aproximar uma série de pontos no perímetro da sua peça para um arco, o que gera um gcode muito menor, uma vez que cada arco é formado por apenas 3 pontos e pode percorrer vários milímetros. Vale a pena explorar, uma vez que da tempo pro buffer da impressora carregar os próximos pontos e também salvar a posição necessária para o recovery.
Olá Murillo! Você tem toda razão. Eu já tinha usado Arc Welder recentemente - e de fato a Neptune 3 veio com suporte para comandos de arcos. Tudo funcionou perfeito e sem blobs mesmo com o Power-loss Recovery habilitado. Mas nem toda impressora suporta isso, e também só conheço o plugin pro Cura. A dica é boa, funciona e merece um vídeo sobre isso.
@@GeekDetour Everson boa tarde, tudo bem? não entendi como fazer a instalação dos arquivos.
I haven't even printed in vase mode yet, but your way of explaining how and why was wonderful! Very insightful and engaging to watch. You just got a new subscriber!
Hi Julie! Thanks for such kind words and welcome to the channel 🤗
Not sure why I was recommended this video but your energy and enthusiasm explaining this kept my attention!
Ah, that is so sweet - thank you! I think the CZcams algorithm knows you would enjoy using a 3D Printer 😄👍
Amazing that you figured this out!
I print certain "standard" pieces for my business, and most of them are mostly "cylindrical".
The real question is, why don't slicers and 3d printers support g2-g3 movements. Makes the code incredibly lighter, and leaves the interpolation to the controller.
I've tried using a plugin called ArcWelder, but it mostly messes up the code for some reason.
Nope, first, thanks for the donation. NOW, let’s talk about Arc Welder: it works! If your printer is not printing it well, you should look into updated versions of the firmware for your printer. I was happily surprised that the Neptune 3 (that I show in the video) had ARC support from factory and indeed it printed this test piece perfectly (even with Power-loss Recovery activated, no Blobs!). My older printer, a Frankenstein Ender 3 (highly modified) doesn’t print ARCs well - it is my fault because I enabled it and compiled the firmware very shortly after ARC was introduced in Marlin… I am sure it I get a newer version of Marlin, adjust for my FrankEnder and compile it again, it would make ARCs nice now. Yeah! G2 and G3 are the future for curves… I want to see it implemented on all slicers without plugins. But we are in a transition period. A Lot of printers still don’t have it.
@@GeekDetour any chance of a video for the new g2 and g3 feature on the latest prusa version released just a few days ago? Perhaps a little overview on the subject is in order? Thank you in advance sir!
Thanks for the video. Professional machinist here going to get my first printer soon, still learning about printer hardware, drivers etc, have to rewind my brain quite a bit to my older cnc machines as it helps me get into printer mindset as they are pretty similar in terms of some similar issues compared to the power of my new machining centers. Drip feeding millions of lines of code into one of my older vertical machining centers from 1989 with an older fanuc control presents similar issues on occasion to this. Thanks for the great content!!!
Wow! I am glad you enjoyed the video - it is an “advanced/corner-case” topic and I wanted to make it deep enough, but easy to understand. You seem to know your stuff, so, I am relieved the video still looks interesting for technical people! 😂
@@GeekDetour haha, I know a bit about machining, I have run my own precision fab shop for twelve years now and worked in a few different industries prior. I have a lot of older nc equipment and specialize in oddball robotic integration and product development for many industries. Oddly I have been supplying parts FOR really high end 3D printer manufacturers for the past decade. I know a lot about metal printing from powder and additive near net in aerospace alloys, but very, very little about common 3d printers that don't cost $200k. I have much to learn! Been really enjoying your videos
It looks fascinating! Of course, hobby printers are a completely different world - muuuuuch simpler, and yet, because of the low-price components, the quality of the results can vary A LOT. And getting the best out of these machines sometimes require a lot of tweaking. You will certainly have fun! It is crazy to have mini-factories at home! Eventually, even metal powder prints will arrive at our homes!
Holy heck you have saved so many people so much time, frustration and sanding.
Subscribed!
Ha ha ha, thanks! Oh man… specially PLA… it is hard like glass, sanding takes forever!
This is my first time watching one of your videos. You do a FANTASTIC job of making them engaging and informative. You are one of the best content creators on CZcams. Hands down. Well done.
Wow, thank you! 🤗❤️ I loved making this video - I invested a LOT of time making it and luckily it paid off!
My pleasure. I can tell you put a great deal of love and care into your content. You deserve the positive feedback.@@GeekDetour
I hope Elegoo is watching so they can put YOUR GCODE in there next firmware update. Thanks for the video and for YOUR GCODE
Hi Jim! Thanks! Well, my GCode doesn’t do anything other than disable Power-loss Recovery. The only change that would be very nice is to be able to disable (or enable) it on the LCD UI.
Power-loss Recovery has been a strong marketing selling point. I don’t know how much people really benefit from it…
What I want to see in future printers is the hardware implementation that detects the power-loss, but has Capacitors to keep the board enough time to - then - save a checkpoint and turn off.
All printers should have. If this video helps this to become a reality, I’LL be super happy!
Bro, why do you not have more subscribers?? This video was super well done!
Thanks!!! It is easy to explain: my channel was born around iPhone/iPad/Mac tips and tricks - it was growing steadily up to 60k subscribers. Then I bought a 3D Printer and my mind was hijacked into “OMG! I need to be a Maker!” (it is more complex than that, but it sumarizes it well). Changing what your YT channel is about is a BIG No-no for the algorithm. Every video I launched I lost 500 subs. The algorithm doesn’t know who to show your video to… everything gets messed up, people that used to love your content now don’t like your new content.
After a very slow 2 years, it seems things are starting to grow normal on the new direction. Thanks for asking! Very kind! 🤗
@@GeekDetour I guess the Al Gore Rhythm works now. Good topic, perfect video editing and that ending is brilliant. Good video all the way through. Subbed for more.
Thanks guys! Welcome to the channel! I cannot promise all videos will be breathtaking, but I try 😆
Yay! I said, "cache!" as soon as I saw the print. I didn't know it was related to the power loss recovery mode. Nicely done
Your editing is so good and the way you talk about the topic makes it so interesting, i dont own a 3d printer or have seen any videos about it before but this video was just so entertaining!
Oh, WOW! You just made my day! Thank you very much! 😍
this guy sounds like he's talking in 1.5 speed
I'm still a newbie in the 3D printing world, but your video really shed light on this mysterious blob issue! Thanks for the tips! 🙌
Oh, thank you! I am glad you enjoyed it!
I had this issue on my Elegoo N3Pro from one print job to another, same file, same filament same everything.
Thanks to this video I changed out the cheap SD card which came with the printer for another sub-32 GB FAT32 SanDisk SD Card and voila - zero blobbing.
No power recovery control needed to be turned off to get back great print quality.
Thanks for telling me this! I was honestly in doubt if it was useful to mention other causes - the cheap SDCards, cheap/long USB Cable… I am happy it helped you 🤗❤️👍
To anyone out here that still has this problem even when following the instructions in this video (thank you for the video btw), try disabling your webcam. The camera can cause this for two reasons:
1. It stops to take a picture for a timelapse (the nozzle oozes)
2. The webcam steals resources (CPU) causing your server to stall for a while (stalling means no commands are parsed to your printer)
I struggled with this for quite a bit.
Update: I don't know what changed but since I wrote this comment I can print non issue with the webcam stream enabled. Maybe it has something to do with me tweaking the buffers in the firmware for my SKR board, or the cura 5.3 update. I can't be sure what fixed it but it works.
Making Timelapses usually is not nice for the piece you are printing. Everytime I make a timelapse, I am more worried of having a beautiful video, knowing the printed part will be less then ideal.
I am not a creator but I like the peace of mind webcam support offers. I mean you can watch your print remotely (you can also run failure detecting tools such as octoeverywhere's gadget or obico). I have ordered a cheap ip cam online just for this reason.
I'm not even into the world of 3d printing but this was a very informative and well-edited video congrats
Thank you so much!!! 😄
I'm not even familiar with this this hobby, but your way of speaking, and your great charisma kept me watching!
Wow, thank you! I have no idea why the algorithm is suggesting this weird video outside of the typical 3D Printing hobby audience 😄
It sounds like you're always whispering. Very calming, and thank you for the informative video.
Ha ha, thanks! Hey, it’s short, but I guess you will like: czcams.com/video/G5jTgGmD5js/video.html
excellent tips! 👏😎
Hi Marsgizmo! Thanks man! You just made my day 🤗❤️👍
@@GeekDetour keep making the videos, they are great! 😉
I normally use octoprint because it gives me more control over the print job, shows more informarion and allows time lapses, but when printing high precision models (especially with round shapes), the printer started waiting sometimes, while Octoprint was transmitting the new commands. The USB cable wasn't very long and the baudrate was 2Mbit/s but it still happened. A better solution would be to send bezier curve/circle commands to the printer to print round shapes instead of hundreds of linear moves. But STL does not support anything except triangle meshes.
Hi there! I didn’t mention in this video because it was a bit long already, but some printers come with the firmware supporting Curve (Arc) commands (G2, G3) - and there is a plug-in called ArcWelder for OctoPrint, that analyzes the GCode and replaces “segmented curves” for arc commands. You should look into ArcWelder, it might help you.
Thanks, I didn't know theres alredy software to solve that issue. I will try this out next time i print a more complex object.
I've been struggling with blob issues in my prints for the last week or so and only a couple of days ago did I manage to figure out it was due to Octoprint not being able to keep up with filling a command buffer for my Prusa Mini after upgrading to FW 5.1.2 and enabling Input Shaper for much faster print speeds.
While the root cause of my issue is not the same as yours, the underlying mechanics are pretty much the same. Had I seen your video a week ago instead of getting completely irrelevant answers on forums (wet filament, overhangs???, etc.) I could have saved tons of time!
You did such a great job explaining the whole concept and even touched in my exact issue in your conclusion - I'll try optimizing my Octoprint setup for speed and stable connectivity and see if I manage to get better results!
Really glad I came across your video, i'll definitely link it in all of my forum posts as the practical answer to my issues!
Hi there! Oh, I am so glad you figured out the problem with your printer - maybe just using a higher bitrate on the serial connection would help too… but that depends on the specifics of every board and what is supported. I used to love OctoPrint… but I recently got into an insane Rabbit hole about print artifacts and I could see differences between printing from the SDCard and from OctoPrint… (which gets just a tidy bit of extra artifacts)… I am moving all my printers to Klipper this year.
I am so glad you liked the video - welcome to the channel! This year I’ll dive into some crazy stuff about what makes a print really smooth or not - so, stick around! 🤗
@@GeekDetour Interesting idea about bumping up the bit rate of the serial connection of the Octoprint, I'll have to look into it!
Currently I'm planning on giving the PrusaLink a shot as a replacement for Octoprint since to my understanding PrusaLink loads the gcode from my computer to the printer directly so it's comparable to running it from the SD Card.
I'll have to take a look though!
In any case, really looking forward to see what else you have planned, if it's even half as good as this video - I'll definitely enjoy it!
Thank you! Had this issue at work with a new printer but didn't know what caused this. Now the algorithm suggested this video. Great explaination!
Thanks Samuel! I’m happy it helped! The Algorithm knows everything 😬
Very entertaining and informative video! :)
I had power shortages, but I never used the feature. Because all shortages were made by me and if I had a long print I payed attention to do nothing that could cause that.😅
Alternative is to use arch welder to create curves and use that in G-code instead of simple lines generated by slicers.
A G-core for one layer of a circle can be written in 1 (ONE) line like that, while a polyline needs thousands for it to make it smooth...
Yeah! It works. I tested and it was even supported on the Neptune 3 that I used in the video. But I don’t like the fact that curves are not really on the STL file itself - it will make sense when/if we start printing from STEP files, that would have the original curved geometry information
Fabulous production! Your style is wonderfully entertaining AND informative!
Wow! Thank you so much! 🤗 We just bought a house - and I am preparing my new studio, the idea is to make videos more easily and fast!
First time viewer here. Nice solution and equally nicely presented. Will give it a try. Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
Thank you Mickael! The solution makes sense if you print from the SDCard. If you print through OctoPrint or Klipper, then it doesn’t matter because Power-loss Recovery does nothing already in those circumstances. If you have blobs printing from OctoPrint, then the problem is something else 😃
Great video! I also use a UPS (1500 VA) on my machines. Also, with Octoprint, there's a long discussion thread about printing too fast for the printer USB UART to handle the flow of data. While 8/16 bit control boards work well, they aren't really optimized for high speed data flow coming from the USB port. I haven't seen this improve much with the 32 bit boards either. I keep my print speeds to 40-50mm/s when using Octoprint. Great channel, just subbed!
Thanks! ❤️ We will see printers made in a very different way in the next months: a lot of them will run Klipper natively, with a Raspberry Pi “Compute Module” (even if a clone) attached directly on the printer’s board.
I had this exact issue when trying vase mode for the first time, but I already figured it out before watching this video. Very entertaining presentation though!
Thank you 🤗 🥰
Thank you for figuring this out! I tried printing in vase mode a small Egg model for last Easter to use up my remaining pink filament. I never used vase mode before for anything, so I was surprised to see an outer spiral artifact on the printed model -- Now I know why!
I really like your presentation style and how you explained what was happening in depth so we could understand just how the problem occurs. Hope to see more great tips, tricks, etc.
I immediately subscribed 🙂!
Hey, thank you for such kind words! I hope it really helps you to fix your print. PowerLoss Recovery is not the only thing that can cause the Blobs artifacts - but it is the most common one. SD Cards with too much files, or some times even the STL with a too long file name cause slow readings and blobs 🤷♂️
Very true blobs do happen for other reasons too. Seeing the pattern in vase mode is the only time I've seen that happen - usually if they happen it random.
I have high hopes that when I print your model before and after I too will notice great improvement. Then I'll add it to the toolbox for later.
Regardless I just wanted to say you have a great way of presenting things! Please keep putting out more great video !
I had this very same issue when I first started 3D printing, I had a very rudimentary printer that didn't even have an SD card slot and the issue was the firmware cache size and speed at which the print data was streamed over serial, on really tight curves (with lots of sections, increasing the number of commands) I'd run into an issue where the printer was moving faster than the new commands could come in and as a result it would pause briefly when it depleted the command buffer waiting for the next command to get sent.
like you I was led down many false trails to a solution when really it was just a software/firmware issue.
Loved your story! 😁
Great case of debugging to find the cause of the problem! Very useful video, I’m now a new subscriber :-)
Thanks! And Welcome to the channel!
I barely know anything about 3d printing but this was a very nicely put together informative video! Thank you for your content!
Thank you so much for telling me this! It is the ultimate dream to make a technical subject both informative AND entertaining - specially for anyone that is not “into that” 😄 You made my day! ❤️
I had a similar issue earlier, and I thought it was the power-loss recovery feature on my Printer.
Turns out that because I went for a cheaper printer with Klipper, my Sovol SV07 Plus does not come with that feature. What fixed it for me was switching the setting in Cura from hide seam to smart seam, and now my prints come out much more smooth.
Also, compiling a firmware with arc support and using something like "arc welder" to substitute multitude of small segments into gcode arcs helps a lot.
Funny arc interpolation has been in real CNC control like Linux CNC for ever... Good printer firmwares are catching up.
Absolutely true! The Neptune 3 that I used in this video already came with ARC support and it indeed makes it work fine even with the Powerloss Recovery activated. BUT the only viable Slicer to use it is Cura with “Arc Welder” plug-in. In a near future most printers will be running ARCs 👍
I use the Arc Welder plugin for Octoprint, which will work with any slicer. Every time I upload a file it automatically generates an arc welded version and I just select that file to print instead if it's anything circle-heavy. With certain models the file will often end up at least 50% smaller.
Also it's trivial to add this (and lots of other features, assuming you've got a chip with enough memory) even if the manufacturer didn't think to include it by building your own firmware. Marlin is fairly simple to compile and upgrade on newer boards with SD card bootloaders so you can do lots of customization and keep up with new features even on old hardware that didn't ship with it in the original firmware config.
@@ailivac With gyroid infill, arc welder consistently gets it down to about 60% of the size, even without the model having lots of circles. As some of the more curved infill patterns become more popular, I wonder if it'll become commonplace for slicers to incorporate arc support
@@bandana_girl6507 Yes, the gcode is more compact, the instruction rate is higher though and the board actually has to do more calculations, as there is no way to make a smooth circular movement with the most popular kinematic designs. It just gets translated into a series of linear movements, the exact same way the slicer does this, just on the fly.
It helps if your SD card is too slow (which honestly is basically impossible), but it doesn't help at all if you are running into instruction limits (which is very possible).
The same is true with LinuxCNC, but there it is a bit different, as the instruction rates are distributed differently between the components.
To be perfectly honest: monolithic firmware like marlin has been a great tool to bring the community forward, but by now, it is simply outdated.
Wow! Excellent info here!
Wow well done. I would've just guessed wet filament. I've been printing for years and never would have guessed this. Great editing. Subscribed!
Might also consider after disabling the "power loss interruption" feature supplying power to your 3d printer through a computer UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply - e.g. battery system to keep delivering stable power to your PC should you experience a brownout or power loss). Benefits as you stated (fewer writes to SD card) as well as limiting power surges and keeping the printer running (at least for a while) should the power be interrupted. Tnx for the research and explanation.
I love this video and i learned a lot thanks so much. I have a ender 3v2 and i did upgrade firmware and change the bowden extruder to sprite extruder , i was very happy with this sprite extruder but surprisingly my prints came with under extrussionand those blobs i dissasembly sprite extruder and this is ok. but the problem continues now i am gonna try everything you say here.
I have a question. How can i know if my 3d printer is dissable or enabled the power loss recovery?
Cara, quando eu comprei a minha Ender 3 V2, eu estava exatamente com esse problema. Tinha tentado vários ajustes recomendados e o rasgo continuava aparecendo muito mais proeminente do que o esperado. Aí eu reparei exatamente isso: o problema era a pausa entre cada camada. Depois de cavar MUITO na internet, eu finalmente achei essa sua mesma solução. Coloquei o M413 S0 no final do GCode de início e tudo se resolveu.
O seu vídeo tinha que ter aparecido antes para mim! Eu teria sofrido bem menos, hehe.
Oi Amigo, tenho uma Ender 3 Pro, você só colocou a linha: M413 S0 no final do GCODE (starting script) correto? Obrigado!
@@lmoraisvieira isso mesmo!
Video muito bem feito! Qualidade perfeita.❤️
Valeu demais, Marcos! Que legal que você curtiu meu trabalho - bem vindo ao canal!
I've been waiting years to hear the reason for this!! Nice job!
a truly amazing video! It was quick but still super engaging. Great job!
Thank you so much! Very often people say the video is too long, that I could have jumped to the point and finish it in 2 minutes 🤣🤷♂️. I am truly glad you appreciated the whole explanation that leads to the point 😄❤️
Mestre Everson, posso estar errado mas acredito que pelo nome e sotaque vc é Brasileiro certo? Não me leve a mal mas digo posso estar errado pois seu conteúdo de fato é de primeirissima qualidade e seu inglês é irretocável!
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Não sei como não o conhecia antes! Estando a anos no mundo da impressão 3D e mundo maker! Que prazer ver um conteúdo com tanta qualidade! Parabéns!
Eu só desconfiei quando apareceu o screenshot do facebook, em portugues kkkkkk
Poxa, caro Paulo, muito obrigado pelo carinho e encorajamento ❤️ Tem muito brasileiro mandando super bem no universo da Impressão 3D. Lá no grupo Brasileiro do Face, eu fico embasbacado com os caras que modelam, imprimem em resina e pintam num nível super internacional. Cara, não vou mentir: fazer as coisas no Brasil não é fácil. Eu jamais estaria fazendo este canal se não estivesse vivendo na Espanha - fiz várias reviews de impressoras que chegaram em 1 semana pelo correio. No Brasil ia ficar tudo preso em Santos. Admiro imensamente quem se destaca vivendo no Brasil, porque é inegavelmente mais difícil. E bora pra frente porque talento muitos irmãos tem de sobra!
Ha ha ha, valeu Renner!
@@GeekDetour kkkk nao tinha percebido, ganhou outro inscrito.
@@GeekDetour claro que temos muita gente boa! Inclusive um dos Studios mais fodas em resina pra mim é o Loot Studio que é de Belo Horizonte, minha cidade natal! Sim o custo Brasil dificulta muita coisa, como as coisas são mais fáceis ai fora! Sou louco com uma impressora de cerâmica (whasp) que só tem na Europa! Mas em fim… Continue com este trabalho sensacional e conte comigo! Sei que não é fácil, ja tentei fazer algo por várias vezes! E da pra ver nas datas de postagem dos seus videos que sua jornada é de longas datas! Parabéns pela resiliência! Grande abraço!
good on ya man. you actually summed this up very well. went from logical step to logical step. this is what gives engineers a chub. thank you sir. after all the noise & chaos of history because of everybody going through this, your video being a final capstone has enormous value. here, have my subscription. and once again - thank you. and +1 for the reference to cnccccc kitchen
Oh, thanks! Very kind words and I really appreciate them ❤️ Welcome to the channel!
Great tip, and the lightning and thunder mystery reveal was funny!
I have not noticed blobs, but I did notice the pauses just recently printing some top hats for Christmas decorations.
You know the thing about power-loss recovery is that if the power is off any significant time, the heat cycling is going to cause problems anyway. I think the last suggestion of putting the printer on a UPS makes a lot more sense.
One last comment. The fact that a circle gets modeled as line segments within the g-code, instead of a smooth controlled arc passed to the printer firmware as an arc, really just shows how crude our modeling still is. Our descendants will look back at our tech like we look back at the Gutenberg press. 😁
Ha ha, thanks! Loved your comments. Indeed: any power cur longer than 1 minute and the prints will pop-out from the PEI bed, sure! UPS is the only really secure option.
Eventually, slicers might support STEP files… I hope 🤞
Thanks a lot! I had exactly this problem with artifacts on round objects with a pattern! I will give it a try without the setting on!
Makes so much sense, I have never had this blob problem, but I've always had good sd cards from my drone days. But awesome info mate 👍
Ps. Wicked time lapse shots there mate
Thanks! Yeah! Need to make more time-lapses with my crazy rig
Set this vid on 0.75x so it seems more normal
well done, i hate how the 3d printing community always blames moisture. You on the other hand covered two big solutions to blobs.
There is a neat trick in cura that lets you have insane amount of polygons on curves but a single line on straight lines. If you set maximum resolution and travel resolution to an absurd number like 50,000 and then set the lowest maximum deviation number your printer can handle you can get super smooth curves and also have smaller gcode files at the same time because perfectly straight lines end up being a single gcode command instead of several small segments. My Maximum Dev is 0.01mm
Totally! It is true: I had filaments with real moisture… but never with PLA!
To make this video I tried to force PLA into being wet: I left 3 meters of PLA submerged in water for a week and I couldn’t get it to bubble. What you see in the video is TPU, that I also left in the water to get the footage I needed… Moisture in filament is real - but it is not so common as people think.
I don’t run a 3D Print farm - but I am sure people can squeeze a LOT of performance and quality when you have to print A BUNCH of copies of the same part - it certainly justifies tuning every slicing parameter!
You mention a nice trick - need to make some tests to see if that’s something without side effects. My profiles are tuned for laziness 🤣 I usually print one part and done 😜
@@GeekDetour haha don't get me wrong i also print one thing and done but usually its something for a tool or around the house where i want tolerances to be very tight and i don't want to think about what kind of clearance i need. By having a high poly count i don't need to worry about my holes being "octagons" eating away at my hole.
@@GeekDetour the metallic silk pla can actually absorb moisture not sure what in it is hygroscopic but yeah tpu, nylon, abs, and ever so slightly petg but pure PLA doesn't really absorb water in my experience also.
Its the standard response that is endlessly parroted by reddit dullards and has completely ruined google/internet searches for any viable solutions to common problems.
I had this problem recently and did some "repairs" and also tried every other trick i knew. Also changed the nozzle and a belt.
I tried the same file over and over again from octoprint and my raspberry pi 2.
Yes, Model 2!
I never had a problem with it and octoprint, but recently i added some plugins and since then i had the problems but it never occured me
that the plugins or the old pi is a problem.
Till i tried the same file from sd card.
It was another cause, than you described in your video but the print outcome was similar so it nudged me in the right direction.
Thank you!
Hey! I am happy it helped you! Anything that causes interruptions in printing will make Blobs - it can be a poor quality usb cable, slow SD Card and also OctoPrint Plugins that use too much CPU
You are such a genius! I started watching your one of video and I can't stop now.
Wow, thank you! ❤️ Genius? I would say so if I had discovered the issue myself. There were a couple of videos discussing the issue before I did mine, but none had attracted the deserved attention. I knew more people had to know about the side effects of the PowerLoss Recovery Feature because ALL printers were coming with that enabled - and people all over the forums were posting photos of their bad prints, and NO ONE was pointing in the right direction. I am glad I invested a good amount of time to make this one - and I cannot be happier with the repercussion. A few printer manufacturers sent me emails the very same week saying they would start shipping their printers with the option, but disabled. That was so good! 🤗
the threads you pulled to reach this conclusion is just beyond my comprehension, this happened to me just a day from seeing this video, fixed instantly
Thank you very much! I am so happy it helped you to print better! 🤗❤️
Now this is what I'd call a 3D printing education video!
Thanks! You made my day 🤗❤️
Thanks for explaining who powerless recovery is done. Now I understand why I didn't have it since I use octoprint.
That’s right: printing over serial connection doesn’t use Power-loss Recovery even if it is enabled on firmware. 👍 Merry Christmas Oliver!
Bro i have been tuning everything else trying to fix this smh. Great video.
I have just bought a Bambu Lad P1P, does this apply? Not sure about how to go this, how does the code get read by the 3D printer. Also, does this mean that we can eliminate seems as the printhead will not stop and continue to go around and around.
Noooh! Thank goodness this problem is completely non-existing in the Bambu world and also not present on Klipper machines. You are safe 😄. Seams are always dependable on each model, I don’t have a Bambu printer yet, so, I don’t know how good or bad Bambu Slicer is helping on the task, I am sorry.
I have this problem with my Neptune 3plus but with straight surface too. My old CR10V3 printed really well and was great at fine detail. Haven't been able to get the Neptune 3 anywhere close. Always looks really rough.
On the Neptune 3 Pro, Plus and Max there is an option to enable or disable Power Loss recovery in the settings menu, on the printer display.
Ah ok, thanks
You're such a good presenter holy crap you deserve a television show
Oh! That was lovely 🥰 Thanks!!!!
-It's round!!
-Precisely!
This had me guffaw !!
🙏👏👏👏👏🙏
Perfect! 😁
Hi great video, BTW what brand and color is the red filament you used on the video? thanks
Thanks! I think it was Eryone Silk PLA
Vertices? It is round.
Precisely!
a small moment but that got me good lol
Very good video, clear, straight to the matter, explanation, solution. Awesome. Keep up the good work
Thank you so much, Branislav! ❤️ Lots of videos in the pipeline 👍
You solved a mystery I didn't even knew existed and wich might caused me trouble in the future. And you presented everything aesthetically and dramatically sound. A+
(Also liked and subbed oc)
Hey Alex, thanks for the kind words! And welcome to the channel 🤗
This makes sense. I have the ender 3 pro v2 with low ram. I also CNC machine as well and I noticed with 5th axis machining the head of the machine does pause when theirs a lot of poly.
Ahhh the problem I’ve been trying to solve for weeks, is as simple as Turing off my Prusa’s power-loss recovery setting
How helpful of CZcams today, and great video!
Thanks! I am happy my video helped you!
I just sent someone this video to explain this problem, so thank you for making it! I did find one more issue that could affect this. I was seeing this exact problem on my Neptune 2, but it started happening only after using my printer for a few months, despite me mostly printing high-poly vase mode prints. For me, it turned out that it was the SD Card. The ones that ship with the Neptune 2 specifically -- though likely a lot of other printers as well -- are pretty low quality. I replaced the card with a new brand name card, did not change any settings, and have been printing the same models for about a year now with no issues. As you mentioned at the end of the video, NAND flash does dies eventually, so replacing the card when see such issues is a good idea, since it's likely more issues will start happening soon anyway.
Hey, I am glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for sharing it with other users! 🤗 True: the cards that come with printers are far from great!
OMG I would have NEVER guessed this was causing my blobs. I needed to update my firmware the other day so I went ahead and turned power recovery off and like magic my prints are nice and smooth. Thanks a lot for the help!!!
Hi Allan 👋 Thanks man!
Thank you so much! I had a power outage & couldn't figure out why my prints started doing this! I formatted my SD Card & problem solved.
Glad I could help! ❤️ Oh, if you are using the SDCard that came with your printer, I suggest buying a Class 10 card from Samsung or SanDisk - 32GB is more than enough. The cards that come with the printers are usually VERY slow.
@@GeekDetour Thank you again for being so helpful! I am using the one that came with my Neptune 3 Pro, I will purchase one of the ones you recommended. I live in a small town and we get power outages once in a while so I didn't want to disable it. I'm glad formatting the SD Card worked. You are awesome!
Hi! So, right after I made this video, we got a mortgage to buy a house - in a rural area… oh boy… the power interruptions are insane. Usually, one, two seconds. Sometimes many minutes. The problem is that if the interruption is longer than a minute, the heated bed gets cold and the parts pop out… So PowerLoss Recovery is still useless when that happens. I bought a 1kW UPS (a battery no-break). This was the only really effective way for me to not lose my prints here.
@@GeekDetour I live in a small Amish Town, we have horse & buggies still here in town. The power recovery saved my print and I was surprised, that's why I didn't want to disable it. If it it's to the point I may need a 1KW UPS, I will get one. Thanks!
This is something so cool! A 3D Printer in an Amish town! I picture it and I can’t avoid smiling 😁 Thanks for sharing!
Very good content, good quality, good editing. I don't even have a 3d printer but just subbed and liked.
Great content on this video! ❤congratulations
Hey 👋 Thank you for the kind words ❤️
Great video!! I would have never imagined that the root cause was the power loss recovery option 😂
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Hey 👋 my pleasure!! Yeah, there are a few things that cause blobs - this one became more popular since most new printers started coming with Power-loss Recovery enabled by default.
Worked perfectly fine! All blobs are gone. Thanks. I also noticed that the upcoming firmware for the Elegoo Neptune printer (that I have) will have this feature turned off by default. Good job finding this issue!
I am really happy it helped you! That’s great! Thanks 🤗
i dont know anything about 3d printers but goddarn this is so well explained and i get it already
Great video! This is the sort of thing nobody predicts that brings air traffic control to its knees, "lol"...
Great point! 😂
this should be pretty easy to fix, there should second static queue of command which would contains proper step so when the printing queue is empty filament can be stopped/retracted(or whatever else is needed). Than once new commands are read proper recovery can be made before commands are put to queue, it may be worth filing a bug report
The funny thing is that I already guessed the answer when you mentioned "power failure recovery", because this is basically a reenactment of the problem that old pixel games used to have back in the old days, when pixel games used to squish the cache with encapsulated blocks of color information, and when they ran out of RAM there were all sorts of bugs and all sorts of strange color blocks appeared on the screen. When the memory ran low, all kinds of bugs would appear, and all kinds of strange color blocks would appear on the screen.
It's interesting to see how this phenomenon has been repeated in the 3D era.
The same similar problem occurs with tube televisions, which is why Progressive was taken.
Technological development always follows a similar path.
Very good video! I just learned how to tweak marlin firmware code. It was surprisingly easy to do and now I can eliminate a potential issues before it even happens!
I don’t use power loss recovery either so this is great!
Glad you liked it!!! ❤️
PROPS on discovering the cause of this issue! Writing to Flash memory is hella-slow for sure!
I will be turning this setting off since I have yet to make really long prints where recovery is an issue, and I’d def use a UPS if I find myself becoming more concerned.
Thanks again for figuring this out - mystery solved!
Thanks Bill! Absolutely: disabling is the way to go, and getting an UPS if you really need to get covered.
Can I use this g-code process on my ender 5 S1 or is this process only for marlin printers?