How To Dial In Your Mountain Bike Fit | MTB Set Up Tips & Tricks
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 16. 05. 2024
- There are a lot of adjustments on your mountain bike that affect comfort and performance. Things like wrist pain; saddle pain and even handling traits like the front end feeling too light can all be resolved by getting your bike set up correctly. Here's Doddy with all the details đ§
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I'm torn between watching the rest of the video and racing out to my bike to tweak a couple of things. Thanks Doddy, greatly appreciate your videos.
You tweaker, you! (OK, me too.)
I learned the hard way about seat height causing knee pain. This year my wife and I progressed from shortish 30km 300 height-metre total-ascent few hour trips to more serious 50-600km 800 height-metre total-climb trips in the Bavarian/Austrian Alps. It started as a light way to get fitter but ended up as an exploration of the Alps which is still ongoing. One of the mistakes I made was not taking carried weight seriously - I had 5kg in a rucksack on a 60km trip, and a high saddle and boy did I get knee pain! I just finished a short therapy for it but the "cure" was reducing the saddle height by centimetre/half-inch! I also reduced my backpack to about 2.8kg! All knee pain gone and we are back on the mountain trails up to the meadows where the cow bells ring! :)
i was the opposite and most are. Most have their saddles to low and dont allow the knee to "open" This can cause issues later on in life aswell.
"You can do this quite accurately in the privacy of your own home".
Bollock naked on the work bench later it is then.
Thought the exact same thing LOL
I spent a lot more time setting up my bike this season than I have ever before. Details do matter.
The problem, atleast here in Sweden, is that all bike shops I've ever been to is not willing to put the amount of time it takes for a proper bikefit. Most of them just look at you, ask for your height and say "You're a size medium". That's why these sorts of videos are awesome! So thank you GMBN/GMBN Tech for all the hard work your doing for all us riders out there.
Ive been riding 40 years and i found this a great video
This material should have appeared 10 years ago, I'm glad that you translate so clearly and in an understandable language.
When Sir Doddy's presenting, expect to learn lots of useful tips.
Many thanks sir! More power to the channel and the GMBN!
Watching from the Philippines. đđ
I'd really like an in-depth guide on setting up the front and rear shocks, what each adjustment does in terms of how the bike handles, and why certain people want stiffer shocks, or a faster/slower rebound..etc.
There are plenty of videos for this
GMBN Tech has done a couple of really good ones. Should hopefully show up when searching for suspension set up
Quality, detailed thorough vid there...good work!
So concise. Really appreciate your knowledge.
very detailed video. Awesome job Doddy.
Brilliant info doddy
Helped a lot
Doddy great video, not only for the beginner, cheers
Excellent Doddy! Very informative, straight forward and easy to understand. Very useful.
Proper detailed. Love the emphasis on the tailoring it to the individual, great stuff.
Really indepth about everything as always Doddy it really helped me
Brilliant, finally all these infos in one vid . Very well made as usual Doddy ! To the point and always some opennings. Like this . Very well made video !
ANother quality vid from Doddy! Good man keep them coming.
Great timing as I am getting my new bike on Wednesday!
An excellent, highly informative video that clearly explained the cockpit setup. Wicked good- cheers.
This video is very informative and helpful, thank you!
Sooo much value for a lot of us riders, right in this video!
Thanx mr. Dodd đđŒđ€đŒ
Perfect doddy very informative love gmbn tech
This is a good video to watch again for reference!
This is super educational and incredibly helpful... well done team. Great video. One of your best
I've found on group rides / days out, most people complaining of hand, arm and neck pain had their saddles way too high - often over an inch too high. Lowering the saddle tends to take excessive weight off your hands and stop the tingling / numbness and soreness.
Start off too low and work your way up 3 to 5 mm at a time, it's fine to experiment.
I've been messing with mine for months and the 109% method I just tried. Turns out it was right where I had settled on previously right down to the millimeter. I would try that for new guys. Now on to seat width, still having problems there.
if you ride MTB and you get sore hands from peddling... you need to be on a road bike lmao
Really nice video - it is nice to get those on the channel from time to time. You can think that this will be next video with the same information but still it is presented in a way that is informative and helpful. I enjoyed watching it.
Really well laid out series of explanations. Watched with my kids and helped explain some things I've been trying to teach them about setting their saddles.
Hi, Always relevant advice, explained in a simple, clear, precise way. Thanks đ€
Thank-you, mate, much appreciated đ
love it works great. just the right size
Thank you for making meany adjustment s more simple to fit the rider. another very good video of your s.
Great Guide Doddy, very helpful. Just bought a new Ergon seat and about to set it up///Thanks
Brilliant video Iâm new and gmbn help so much with videos like this thank you
Great! Technical, right to the point..
A nother great video dude đ€
Power info thanks !
Always love Doddy explaining stuff like this. I think I watched him talk about deore/slx/xt/xtr so much I can almost dream it.
Also watch gcn and other roadie channels talking about fit and setup and it's so fun to see those perspectives. Shout out to Martyn Ashton for his trial exp/stories
Terrific summary,!
I've found that a 70mm stem really puts my weight right where it needs to be. I run my saddle neutral with a slight upward angle, since a flat angle has me slipping forward. My 680mm bars are a little too narrow, and don't offer me optimal control, so I'm going to go to 720mm. The bars I had before were 750mm.
I run my brake levers at a slight downward angle, with my rear brake at a higher leverage ratio than my front to make it harder to lock up when panic braking. I do run avid levers with adjustable leverage, so that is helpful. Because my brake calipers are zoom hybrid hydros, I can adjust the bite point on my brakes by turning a screw connected to the master cylinder, further fine tuning the travel at my levers. I have small hands, so I also have levers set to a short reach.
My pedals are large and close to the cranks, so the bike feels superbly responsive without feeling unstable, and I can always move my feet a bit to the outside if I need to. I ride with tennis shoes, so the large platforms are necessary to allow me to use the full power of my legs. My shifter levers are at the same angle as my brake levers, and I run them both rather far inboard. Keeps the shifters out of the way of my fingers, while still allowing me full one finger brake control. I've never liked feeling my brake levers touching my fingers.
Thanks for this very helpful video. I have used tips on my own bike and it was very helpful. All but one. I have an Orbea Oiz 2023 and the seattube is really steep, so steep that it is impossible to get the saddle far enough back to get the plumbline down from the kneecap anywhere near the centre of the paddle. What to do when this is the case?
For a bike noob, like myself, finally coming around to getting myself a bike as my means of transportation / commute to work, I really appreciate all your videos. Very informative and educational, especially after deciding to take it seriously for health and fitness reasons. More power, and support for your channel. â€ïž
I'm still yet to receive my bike, but I will definitely be revisiting this and other helpful videos so I can get it adjust to my comfort and preference. đ«°đ
Doddy this is one of the most useful videos out there. Super informative and helpful. Thank you!!
Glad to hear it!
Good video. Thanks đđœ
Thank You!
The definitive guide. Great work
Glad it was helpful!
The timing for this is perfect, Iâm getting to ready to order a new bike and canât try all the sizes I want due to availability. Itâs like you made this just to answer a #askgmbn question I posted a couple weeks ago.
Very useful info.
Lately I found really interesting topic about handlebar rise and bending because I get some "Handlebar palsy" and I need to change something on my bike!
Great Video
đ€great vid, is it best to size up on a mountain bike if your near the end of a frame size, I'm just over 6ft and a large felt cramped, so i went XL but had to slide the seat forward on the railsđ€
Great info, thanks n
hey amigo love the show I have a NUKPOORF MAGA 2021 29er ... when I do a jump or drop the back wheel hit my ass is it back COMPATIBLE this malt setup or can I turn it to a malt bike THANKS Sydney Australia
Agree on everything but the bar stems, my stumpy had a long stem i put a 35 mil one on changed the feel of the bike completely
#askgmbntech Hey Doddy! Recently I've noticed that oneLoc lever doesn't fully lock the fork. To make it happen, I'd have to undo the cable bolt, rotate the compression dial a bit further and secure the cable in the new position. Which brings me to 2 questions: is it an omission during assembly and will it firm up the fork on "open" setting compared the previous setup?
Doddy im 6'6 and obviously i have big hands
What grips do you recommend for a big guy like me? Also i don't like foam grips
Can you recommend 3 grip models?
Cheers
well that confermed what i thought about my bike being to small for me!! got the seat back as far as it will go as going down hill fast is bloody scary, better now i put the seat back though but got the seat at max hight too most off the time, but then again i don't really do a lot of seriouse rideing anyway just normaly just a blast through the woods now and again.
Great video thanks. The stuff about the saddle was excellent. The cockpit could have been expanded in some areas especially what to look to change if you have certain pains; for instance I can't go more than 5 miles without having to shake out pins and needles all the time - obviously I have something wrong in my setup but this video has just pointed out that I've got a wide range of things I can change but rather than randomly thrashing around it would be great to have a "if this-try this and this" type guide :) But thank you for an excellent video and I'm going straight out to see if I've got my saddle in a good place :)
To much pressure on the ulnar nerve, try rolling the bars back a bit first then set brakes a bit more level. That sorted that out for me on the mountain and road bike.
#askgmbn Hi Doddy, cheers from California! I have been a GMBN viewer for quite some time, and I really like the way you explain everything. I have a 2017 Canfield EPO that I just built, and I mostly ride All Mountain and Enduro trails. I have been having issues with wrist numbness and sometimes pain, and have been trying to minimize it by moving my riding position (and weight) farther back on my bike. I have a short crown steerer unit, so I can't raise my bars up very much (maybe 10mm total extra steerer length, even with a short stack stem, which is 50mm long). I bought some 20mm and 35mm rise bars, but they don't seem to be helping my wrist pain. I know I should work on strengthening my core muscles so I don't rely on leaning on the bars as much, but there are so many other factors to consider. Should I switch from my Ergon GA3 grips to a thicker silicone foam grip like the WolfTooth Mega Fat Paw? Or should I consider getting even higher bars, perhaps 50 or 60, or even 80mm rise? Or maybe some Spank Vibrocore bars to remove excess trail chatter? What should my first change be? Any suggestions would be helpful. I feel like there could be a whole segment done on this issue. Thank you! Oh, and here's a link if you want to check out my bike i.redd.it/yukwzrrxmde71.jpg
#gmbntech hi doddy, I just upgraded my bike to a 2021 transition patrol. Iâm looking for a little more suppleness in the rear end. I watched a video with Rich Payne and he mentioned Richie Rude (same body weight as me) running pressure around 93 F, and 210 R. How can I get away with a similar setup without significantly increasing sag.
#askgmbntech Hi, can you please take a look at the Cube Stereo One77 Pro, since I would like to buy it, I would like to hear your opinion on it. I want to drive not only downhill but also longer climbs. Would the geometry make the uphill passages very difficult? What is your opinion on the bike?
Thank you, best regards, Lukas
I hasn't riden a bike in 20yrs. The last time I really used to ride was BMX. But recently I've gotten into riding again bought an XC style bike large frame with 27.5 tire. Been watching these tips and tricks vids and slowly getting my bike dialed in for myself, and upgrade changes to give my bike a better fit and personality.
Awesome video made me get my bike out to double check all my measurements
make part 2 showing different body size 'types'
Neil should use a narrow q factor then... weebles wobble...but they dont fall down!!đ
Interesting
What has to be considered as well is that a M sized frame could have a reach of under 400mm up to 470mm or so. I'm 172cm and would like a reach of around 465mm like the M size Kona Honzo ESD
i use to run 780mm bars but they do not fare well on UK streets.ive clipped multiple signs ,knocked wheelie bins over ..the lot ..i had to take them down to 720mm
Is the horizontal crank and knee over the pedal spindle fitting method no longer relevant? Has steep seat tubes changed this school of thinking as the hip is now more forward in relation to the bottom bracket?
Nice
Great video. Just bought a Occam and its a great bike excet that I catch the pedals all the time. Do you catch yours alot? If not how do you stop it happening. Thanks
I just bought a Cannondale Habit 1, and with 30% sag my pedals are only about 3-4 inches off the ground, and I catch them all the f*cking time. I'm thinking of flipping the chip on the rear end for an extra 3mm BB clearance ( which steepens the head angle by 0.5 degrees and also alters the seat tube angle) and switching to shorter cranks (maybe 10mm) other than that I just have to be mindful of rocks and stumps.
#askgmbntech Is it okay to have little to no stand over clearance? My bike really fits me well but it has a high top tube.
Some good tips.
I might revisit my brake biting point!
You didn't cover how to set up the height of a dropper post. I've just bought my first bike with one and it wasn't obvious to start with.
Lastly...I found the music too loud compared to your speaking parts!
yeah there's some fudged editing... Doddy actually gets cut-off at the end of one clip
Can some explain what q factor is good for what frame spacing ..... anyone with any ideas
#askgmbntech hello there , I just bought a bike and the dropper post is sliding down as I sit on it. It is smooth and it's extending fast though. What do I have to do?
Bike fit is already quite complicated and I feel like on MTBs it gets exponentially more intricate because of 2 positions you have to set the bike up for.
btw, anyone know when wide bars became a thing. if you look at old videos, it looks kinda funny how tiny they were
I ride an Occam with the factory fitted Fizik saddle. Seat width for my seat bones is fine. But found when I a neutral position my gentlemanâs area was going numb on long rides. I adjusted the saddle to a forward sloping position and now get wrist pain. So I adjusted the sweep angle. Still get wrist pain but better than the other problem đ€Ł Now considering changing grips the Ergon GA3 or changing to better saddle with a split channel. Any advice on which one to do first? Budget doesnât allow both at once. Thank you
Did you try reducing the maximum height your seat? It might just be too high for you.
@@chimps4gimps yes mate. Seat height is spot on
I used to get off my 1996 Klein Attitude (full rigid with a very "professional" head down riding position) after a long ride and get pins and needles in my wife's best friend. An odd sensation to say the least.
God dammit I miss that bike. It was two tone red over a gold flake undercoat, weighed 6 kilos (the frame, fork, stem and bars were essentially a single piece of aircraft grade aluminium) with mostly XT/XTR groupset, Grafton Joy Stix cranks, titanium skewers, crank and pedal spindles, saddle rails and bolts, Hope hubs and hand built wheels with carbon spokes and Bontrager rims. I built it at huge expense so that almost the entire bike could be disassembled with a 4ml Allen key, and I probably put 50,000 miles under it before my ex girlfriend stole it and sold it for ÂŁ300, which even in 2000 wouldn't have bought the front wheel. Whoever bought it probably had no idea how much money, love and time went into building it.
Does no one pay attention to seat position relative to the pedals anymore? To prevent knee pain you want your knee above the ball of your foot when the pedals are forward (where you're putting the most stress on your knee).
No talk about crank lenght? It makes a huge difference in how a bike feels as well. The correct length can prevent hip-pain and they also affects pedal-strikes.
czcams.com/video/h7sKhKi9Bcc/video.html
Your saddle (or your bum) needs some breaking in too! It takes a few rides to get used to a new one.
The biggest positive change I made in the cockpit was rotating the bar a couple of millimeters
What I understood: Take into account to take it into account đ€
Guys can u pls. Help me where to buy that saddle?
I don't have or need a dropper post, yet anyway, as I don't do that sort of riding. But it's possible I will, so the ability to raise the seat quickly while riding (right?) have me wondering if a cheap dropper post could allow the seat to raise too quickly and hurt the male rider, (between the legs gentlemen).
But I suppose, one way I could use an inexpensive dropper post right away, is to quickly raise the seat to fit in my Repair Bike Stand, by the seat post, (there has to be enough seat post to be clamped), then back down (or up) when I'm ready to ride. I must find a reason to do this "upgrade."
Re: Riding Position: As it is, the arthritis from my health/age has me concerned that my riding position is now, more crucial than ever, having me quickly feel (in pain and soreness) the results from riding w/ the wrong equipment, or adjusted wrong - like a seat incompatible w/ me, or handlebars too far away, etc. I want to keep riding until the good Lord takes me, so I should probably figure out what is best for my body type, so that unnecessary pain (that which can't be solved by different equipment or adjustment), doesn't have me quit the hobby.
Name of the saddle ?
Crankbrothers also have easy release cleats, which are better. Shimano does the clipping in and releasing better.
I actually just switched to CB from Shimano to give it a try... Crank Brothers is usually easier to line-up for clipping in but you can't adjust the spring tension, so even though you're lined up properly you can't get that sucker on. similarly he talks about having more "float". but with Shimano you just loosen the tension, and boom -more float, the trick is that you have to find the balance between the release tension that you want and how much float you have because they're at opposite ends of the scale. similarly as long as your cleats are lined up properly to accommodate the entire pedal stroke, you don't need them to "float" if one or both knees hurts on either the inside or the outside of your leg on longer rides then you know that you have the wrong cleat angle. I don't remember HOW I tightened them, but I remember adjusting my cleats on the pedal... I loosened my cleats *just enough* that I could rotate them if I added extra pressure, balanced my bike against something and climbed on, clipped in, and adjusted the angle while pedaling in reverse. I remember I took my foot out of the shoe and somehow tightened it back up again while still clipped to the park. that was years ago though, I've since gotten new shoes, and new pedals several times, and I haven't been able to figure out how I was able to do it that first time. the only thing I can think of is that the design of the pedal at the time was such that I had access to the screws somehow, that newer designs lack.
In my experience with CB I need to place my foot perfectly to be able to clip in, usually takes a couple tries, might be just me. With Shimano it's like putting on a shoe; slip the triangle in and pedal -> *click*, works every time. Shimano has adjustment (well, my near 10yr old road bike has). I'm not aware of any for CB except changing the cleat (they offer various).
I have the regular/pro CB cleats atm. and it has so much float/release angle that I can't even get my foot out in time if I crash... that's why I recommend the easy release :p
Cool i cheers â
20:57 you know what's even stronger? using more than 1 finger. also no risk of bottoming out the lever on the other fingers. each to their own as you say but i think there is a pretty solid argument that its safer to use multiple fingers!
True. But: if you go down something rough at any speed at all you won't be able to hold on to your handlebar (unless you're some sort of hulk)...
Oval cranks back in the 90s give me knee pain
I was under the impression that you want the saddle as close to over the BBs as possible to get the most pedal efficiency? So this moves the knees further forward than over the pedal spindle?
Hi! Position your saddle to whatever feels comfortable for you. There isn't a specific rule that you need to follow to get the best position. We doubt that there is an advantage in moving your saddle over the BB. Saddle position is purely to adjust the reach from your handlebars. Hope this helps! đ
@@gmbntech awesome, thanks for clearing that up đ
I think I've seen the next caption comp image for the Dirt Shed Show... XD
How about having equal power transfer on both feets? I have a issue of having one feet shorter than the other which is my dominant foot. Is that because I tend to assert more strength using my dominant foot compared to the other, causing this issue?
Don't think Doddy is a physician or miracle worker đ
@@tonwhelan Just wanna know if that could be due to bike set up or maybe using clips would be better for more equal power transfer.
@@mf3616 I would recommend going to a podiatrist and getting assessed it worked wonders for me with one leg 5 mm longer than the other
Great vid, as always Doddy - but can you explain to my wife why I have chalk all over my nuts, she doesn't believe that I'm checking my sit bones, đ€Łđ€Łđđ
Doddy, can you please tell me which model Ergon saddle that is? Does anyone know???
SM Enduro Men (Team Edition)
@@juanjose0917 Can't find the model with the huge logo on the side. Only a small logo at the front, even on the sm enduro.
Yeah, itâs still currently only available for team riders - not on aftermarket
@@juanjose0917 BOOOOOOOO đđ IT'S SOOO SICK!!!
Weebles Wobble - now there is a reference!
The bike is solid and my Ebike conversion went great. czcams.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Very smooth ride at 30mph with no problems (135 miles ridden so far). The picture is a bit deceiving - there is WAY less space in the center of the frame than it shows. The suspension connection takes up the entire thing. So I needed to attach my battery on the bottom of the frame and my controller on the top. Instructions for assembly were lacking but honestly it wasn't too hard to figure out even though I have very little bike knowledge. Watched some youtube videos on adjusting the disk brakes but that was it. Still, I am loving it and very happy with the purchase.
pretty sure Doddy would scratch his head looking at my bike setupđ€Łđ€Łđ€Ł