1974 MGB Update
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- čas přidán 17. 07. 2017
- A look at the work I have done so far this year from the gas tank to the new 32/36 Weber. I know I could have bench bled the MC, but I figured I would be able to get around it and it looks like I was able to by loosing the lines form the junction so the brake fluid gravity feed through the MC and eliminated the air at least the makes sense to me. I have all brakes and a pedal, but I will probably bleed them again just to be sure, nothing wrong with double checking.
you are so right on electrical issue problems on all MG; even the Porsche 914 is even worse bc the rear open grill allows the rain and moisture to splash to the fuse box compartment. that's gotta be the engineering nightmare and the consumer gets the worse of it. i changed my MGB GT to electronic ignition converted from points, very easy to do. you won't have to deal with the point and condenser. make sure you get the right coil without the resistor. contact MOSS MG import or Northwest import-steve. Moss does send their parts catalog quarterly. it has a lot of good information.
that's a huge restoration. learned quiet a lot from your video. thanks.i have a 1971 MGB GT for nearly three years now. the SU HS4 is not keeping my ride consistently. i decided to convert to the 32/36 web. after the simple installation, it ran great, only when the engine gets warmed up and running idle for ten minutes, it started to skip, rough. shut it down. i tried to start again a few minutes later, still wouldn't fire up. i let set overnight, it starts right up but the engine still running rough when it is more than 10 minutes idling. i checked the other youtube for help. one guy mentioned requires the 5.5 mm phenolic spacer.on the carb and the inlet manifold. sorry for this long comment. the hot temperature causes a fuel vapor lock that makes it skipping and won't start. remember the original heatshield removed to dissipate the exhaust manifold? there's no way to put this heatshield. what i did was purchased 4 alum trays 12" x 8"; folded in half, places it underneath between the exhaust pipe and the carb. the other tray folds in half and place between the exhaust/inlet manifolds. this interference will make the carb fuel much cooler. i don't think the 5.5 mm space will solve the fuel vapor lock problem. Walmart sells 2 trays pack for 98 cents, get total of four trays.
Looking good!!
Nice that you're keeping it on the road, but the weber...ugh! The SU's are such a pleasure and so easy to rebuild if needed. Your 74 would have had the HIF's and they just look so right when you lift the bonnet not to mention you'd get a little more power than you would with the weber.
i forgot to mention the last challenger 1971 restored was a plum crazy purple. man, that was some beautiful color scheme. i have seen many shades of plum crazy purple, even on the TV episode GARAGE SQUAD. mine was the better texture, just right. my first dodge challenger was a 1970 RT apache teak with RT stripe on run from both front to rear side; giant RT on the hood with two scoops with 383 magnums attached. it was a rally 3-speed strip when i ordered from the CCK AFB in Taiwan commissary 1970 right before i got discharged. i sure love to find one with 383 and repaint to the very same scheme as my first ride.
Did you hook up the vacuum advance to the distributor? If not why not. My carb (just like yours) is revving out of control. With no gas it, upon cranking it on, goes immediately to 4K rpm.
FOR PERSONAL SAFETY AND PROPERTY PROTECTION, MAKING SURE GAS IS DRAINED FROM TANK BEFORE ANY DRILLING/WORK.
awakening, i ran the mgb gt with 32/36 web today with the alum foil trays as a heat dissipator. ran for almost 10 minutes, there was hardly heat in the carb area. after shutdown, practically no heat remains and started right up. i also found the source for engine stalling and skipping. this mgb gt has an air/water/vent??? separator inside the trunk at the right side; a rounded module with two hoses, one goes to the nipple fitting right under the fuel filler neck, other hose goes to the charcoal carbon canister in the engine compartment. the hose under the fuel filler neck was totally collapsed. replaced the hose; the engine ran much smoother now, not sure all the MGB incorporate this origin setup?
Had same issues with mine (re gas tank, with expensive fittings!) Looking at same carb upgrade, but keeping the manual choke. Where did you get your carb from? WIll be starting a rebuild of mine (and making vids) that I have had for about 17 years, but never got to working on.....will keep an eye out for your updates as you proceed!
bad bad news. the fuel tank mounting bolts and nut plates froze when i tried to remove them. only the ones with self-lock nut were ok. i'm drilling the hex head off so i can separate them from the bolt shank. i can lower the gas tank with the floor jack after removing the remainder hardware. man, this gas tank was never removed by the look of it. i have ordered the RED KOTE GAS TANK SEALER on eBay to reseal the leak.
i tried to send my three photos on the 32/36 web conversion with the alum trays for the heatshield dissipator to offset the gas vapor lock. i can send to your email easily, not able to attach to a youtube reply.