Base Coat & Clear Coat using Fuji Mini Mite 5 (FINAL PRODUCT SHOWN ON VEHICLE!)
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- čas přidán 19. 10. 2021
- In this video I will be showing you how I prep my parts, apply the base coat and apply the clear coat. As always I am using the Fuji Mini Mite 5 and I'm using the 1.3 tip for the base and 1.0 for the clear coat.
Fuji Mini Mite 5:
www.amazon.com/Fuji-2805-T75G... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
FYI - you don’t need the check valve on the line from the cup to the gun when using the PPS system. There is no possibility of material backing up into the gun. The check valves can fail and when they do it leaves you confused about what is going on with the gun, so better to just leave it off if using the PPS system.
Hey thanks for your advice. I’ll try without it next time around.
I just bought the Q5 Platinum to learn on. Thanks for the video.
Just subscribed. Looking forward to viewing your other videos.
I will be painting a Mini Cooper in a few days from now. Stay tune for that.
Dam, that looks good. Thanks
Thanks for the comment!
Love to see more pleaseeeee 🙏
Coming soon
As far as orange peel there needs to be a minimum of it since it's not a show car if you're clearing it that's perfect to match the factory paint finish! and you don't even have to wet sand it and polish it's done! only few spots whenever you get a little dirt here and there that's for those who may wonder. Great video enjoyed watching like the rest posted! Keep painting brother! and continue doing what you love that's your passion for laying paint and your calling. every painter who loves painting deep inside is an artist! and every painted car when finished is a peace of art!
Thanks for your comment. And yes,
You are right about the orange peel. As for a work of art and putting your passion at work, I think it’s the only way someone will appreciate your work as a piece of art. I enjoy painting and I hope is useful for someone that wants to learn a new skill. Once again, thanks for your comment.
Thank you for your reply!
I really learned a lot from you as far as getting great results from the turbine and adjusting the gun for great finish. I wish I had one like it and I looked at the prices and they are very expensive but worth it!!!
compare to what is needed to paint considering the cost and space this is the best option! and it blows warm dry air! no moisture which is ideal to paint even during cold days because the material flows out with warm air hitting the panel which makes it drying quicker.
Hopefully one day I'll have one like it too!
keep painting and posting videos!
I just subscribed to your videos! Thank you!
Just ordered a t series Fuji spray gun to try with my 5 stage turbine. I'm sure I won't be disapointed.
Always enjoy seeing someone use a turbine hvlp to do automotive paint.
Good to know that you enjoy it. That makes 2 of us. What unit do you use?
Nice job. Are you able to buff out or wet sand after and remove all the dirt nips and get a showroom finish. I'll be doing this in my garage but, seeing you do it gives me hope. I notice that you have your spray on full blast and there seems to be a lot of overspray like with the regular compressor gun. Only other video I found was from Brian at paint society and he had Q5 which he turned down a lot. I didn't like the way his finish turned out although he did buff it after and made it look better.
Again, thank you for sharing your experience. It's a great help and I have many more questions. lol Cheers!
Thanks for your comment Dusan! You can absolutely buff or wet sand afterwards for that showroom finish. Thankfully I don't get too much dirt (in my opinion) but if I did, I would definitely buff or wet sand. When doing my jobs, I don't put my trigger at full blast, the maximum is around 2 turns of the dial so that the overspray isn't as bad as a regular compressor gun. I look forward to answering more of your questions. Cheers!
The first thing you've got to get right with any spraying system is the VISCOSITY. This is the number one thing that makes sure the material lay down flat.
Please describe what it is and how to achieve viscosity, thank you so much.
@@frankie21963 Viscosity is the thickness of the material, base or laquor. Get a viscosity cup and measure the time it takes to empty. For me, 8.5 seconds is a good mix. If it takes longer, then it is too thick so dilute it with reducer until you get to 8.5 seconds.
Wow, excellent information, thank you. What are the best ways to avoid runs and orange peel? I'm going to be building a Shelby Cobra replica.
@@frankie21963 Hi. To avoid runs, don't go above 1.2 tip. On the final coat of clear, don't use reducer but heat it to 60-70*C for max protection. Orange peel means too thick. I will look out for the Shelby..!! Good luck.
@@excavator31 Thanks again for taking the time to answer. Best!!
Just want to say nice job on your finish. I did notice you did have a lot of oversprey but sometimes you need to turn up your air pressure a little bit to atomize the paint a little bit better to get a smoother finish. I have 2 of the older Fuji systems systems one of them is still in the box that is going to my son-in-law. I also have 5 complete units of the accuspray turbine units. I've had a few of them for over 30 years and they still work perfectly. All I can say is when you're done with your gun completely clean the gun inside and out. Get all paint residue/overspray off of it. Also clean your air hose you don't want any residue left on your air hose. Wipe it down with either paint thinner or acetone.
Hi there,
Thanks for your comment and yes you’re right about the over spray, I actually did have the fan off and I did realized it after I sprayed. My bad.!
But thankfully it turned out good. I also want to thank you for your tip on cleaning up my equipment. I am with you about the maintenance on the guns and hoses. I believe it’s what makes you not only be a clean painter, but also it makes you look professional as well.
Once again thank you!
Awesome video. So can you spray entire vehicles as well with the system?
Thanks for your comment. And yes I have sprayed an entire vehicle with this system.
Great video mate...from NZ We have been looking into setting a set up like this for a while, buy we were afraid of the clear coat performance... Iam looking at a Apollo spray gun, do you know anything about this gun. We have been doing smart repairs here for many years now and are wanting to change to a turbine system, Thanks again, keep the vireos coming....
Hey thanks for the comment,
I haven’t used the Apollo system yet, but I hear is the same feel as the Fuji system.
When I switched to the turbine I was so impressed with it that I wished I had done the switch long time ago. So I encourage you to do so. You won’t regret it once you get the hung of it.
Let me know what you think once you do. All the best.
@@quickfinishsolution2483 Yes i will mate Cheers from NZ...stay safe...
Thank you so much for the excellent videos! I have a mini mite 4, and am wondering if you have experience spraying either epoxy primers or high build with yours? There isn’t much real world info out there at all, and I am wondering how large of a nozzle I might need to go as a general guide. I currently have 1.3, 1.0, and .8, tips and think I’d need larger for at least the high build, but I’m not entirely sure just how large to go. I know it also depends on the paint system, but I’m wondering what your experience with them might be.
Hi there,
Thanks for your comment. As for epoxy primers I haven’t had to use it with the Fuji system, but you’re right I would probably use a higher size tip and work my way down if I have to.
With the Mini-mite 4, you will want a 1.5 or 1.6 tip for epoxy and for high build primer you should go with 2.0.
@@finleyk Thank you - I will give them a try. I appreciate your help!
Just to circle back around on this for anyone also interested or with questions….data sheet recommended 1.3-1.5 mm tip for my epoxy primer. After mixing and then reducing 10% per instructions (which I do not think I needed), Ford cup timed out at 9.5 seconds, so I used a 1.0 tip. It came out fantastically smooth. Approximately 2 turns out on fluid. Used the 1.0 tip for base (11.2 sec), and .8 tip for clear (8.5 sec). I sprayed at 85°, 45% humidity, slow reducer, with a small amount of retarder in the clear. Do not fear spraying epoxy with this system. It works extremely well. I did not cool input air other than have the turbine on the ground, and did not put the hose in water nor ice. I had no problems spraying, despite what you may read on other forums. I hope this helps someone.
Hi great video. I have the Fuji semi pro 2 can this work be done with that ? Thanks 😊
As long as it has minimum 9psi from your turbine like mine I don’t see why not.
Which Fuji spray gun are you using
That was very good. What type of paint and how was mix.
It’s base coat from ppg and the mix is 1:1
I just got mini mite 4 can u tell me what size needle kit I need for base and clear u do great work thanks richard
Hey thanks for your comment. Well, as you can see in the videos I posted I always use 1.3 for my base and 1.0 for my clear coats. It always gives me great results.
I love you camera angle because it shows, or doesn't show lol, the best part of an HVLP turbines setup....
LITTLE TO NO OVERSPRAY!!!!
Normally that whole both would be a cloud! I think I heard that with a conventional setup only 25% of the product hits the surface.....that's a lot of waste!!! As well as drying product flying around and landing back on the part!
Oh yeah.....what cup and bag system are you using? Is that the 3M? I didn't know if it could be used with the Fuji HVLP guns for turbines but I guess that part of the gun is the same as a compressor style HVLP gun.
Again,
Thank you!!!!
Thanks for your comment. It’s been so much fun and also a learning process since I started using this unit. I don’t think I’ll ever go back to the conventional way again. Well, maybe I shouldn’t say never. But really, it’s a good system and it’s been really good for me. I just finished a project that soon will be posted. And yes the cap that I’m using it’s by 3M and easy way to clean your system once you’re done with it. I also save probably 1/2 of my materials when using this system. Keep spraying and keep make this world more colourful. Cheers
@@quickfinishsolution2483
I'm actually a car audio competitor and installer and in the process of turning my 2003 Ford Ranger into a Raptor. I'm sponsored by JBL and, Raptorliner! Yep. I'm actually going to be finishing my trucks out in Raptorliner's bedliner coating which will be tinted the OEM base color, Chrome Yellow. I do not want the rough texture but instead a matte like finish you would find in a vinyl wrap.You can do this with a compressor set up and playing with the PSI and Schutz gun. I'm getting the Fuji Q4 4 stage unit to help with atomizing. I may have to thin it out some will try several ways first. There's not very much about bedliner coatings and turbine sprayer so I'm gonna document everything! Heck you can even clearcoat it!
Thanks for all your work once again!
Awesome. Please let us know how your project turns out. All the best!
So you are doing all the way closed and then back 1.5 turns? What I have been doing is just until I feel pressure on the trigger, not sure how many times that equates to
From my experience, when you feel pressure at the trigger it's because it is fully open. That means that lots of fluid is coming out at once. What I do is, I open it enough so that enough fluid comes out. That is why, in my videos, I demonstrate how many turns exactly I do on each of my jobs. I always start fully closed and then will tell you how many turns I do. I never do my jobs with the trigger fully open. I hope this helps!
For the bumper, did you use an adhesion promoter?
No because this a metal bumper that required epoxy primer.
does the graco 9.5 do such a finish?i'm between the qtech 5 and the graco pro comp 9.5 which one would you advise???
I never used either or so I don’t know how to advise you there.
Looks great....im considering the fuji semi pro 2 base on price looking at your results i might just have to go with the 5 you are using
Thanks for the comment. I would definitely give it a try. From my experience since using this system I don’t think I want to go back to the old way of painting.
Have you had any experienced with laying primer? If you did, what is the tip size?
I have sprayed primers before and I did use a 1.3 needle set with it.
I jus bought the tp tool showtime 99
Any thoughts
I’m not quite sure I know what you’re saying. What is TP TOOL?
Where is a good place to get that cup and Fitting between the gun and the cup?
Try Lordco auto parts
is that one exhaust vent fan enough when using this turbine system?
More than enough
I been spraying with the 1.3 tip and it’s too much orange peel . I will order the 1.0 tip right now hoping it will be better. I have the semi pro system . It only has 5psi
Don't waste your money on 1.0 tip since you can adjust the volume of material with the knob on the back of the gun. If you have the semi pro 2 like mine, the knob should be metal. The upper blue plastic should be fan pattern. Play with setting a bit and even adjusting the airflow from the hose. Don't max out the airflow or you get the over-spay. Fan pattern(blue knob control wide or narrow), airflow(black switch control hot air amount) and material (metal knob on back of the gun control the material distribution) all combine will make your painting skill perfect. Practice, practice and practice until you've got it right. Unless you paint primers which were way thicker, then you get another tip.
@@dannytrinh07 I played with the knobs and have adjusted the fluid to maybe half a turn, still getting large droplets. So therefore I’m trying the 1.0 tip next. It’s only $50 so it won’t be a waste for me. Usually spray with 1.3 tip on regular hvlp guns but this turbine system is much different.
@@atemegabites2251 with the large droplet 💧 problem, you’re either with airflow being not fully opened or paint wasn’t completely cleaned out from last usage. I have turbine semi pro 2 just in case you wondered. My system could be set up to spray much thinner but it takes too damn long to get the job done. Just bought 1.5 golden color tip for primer but haven’t tried out yet.
@@dannytrinh07 smaller tip doesn’t mean it will shoot out a smaller pattern. I’ve gotten ok results with the 1.3 but I feel that for a base coat clear coat job you need the 1.0 tip. I mean this guy is using .8 and 1.0 tip and it’s coming out really good
The problem you are experiencing it’s because your pressure it’s too low. Turn your pressure all the way and adjust your fluid up to 2 turns on the fluid nob and then you will see the difference. Cheers
How much reduce do you use in the clear?
No reducer at all. I use a 4:1 part clear.
I would still use reducer until you have a viscosity of 8.5 to 9.0 secs. That is the right thickness. Try a test piece and look at the difference compared to using no reducer at all.
Can this turbine system can spray metallic flakes?
can spray anything solvent or water based but it may struggle to get a good coverage of metallic as its not as good at atomising compared to an air compressor system.
Yes. I spray metallic paint quite often.
@@quickfinishsolution2483 do you ever spray using clear mixed with heavy metallic flakes? This is my main concern, the atomization when it comes to the metal flakes.
That I have not yet tried. But maybe in the near future I’ll give that a go.
Nice video how Manny hours can you put on a turbine before rebuilding it and what tip you using thank you
I use 1.3 for primers and base I I like using 1.0 with clear coats.