Spraying my kitchen cabinets- Fuji mini mite 4
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- čas přidán 24. 08. 2024
- I remodeled my kitchen which consisted of building a new island. This video is me completing the doors and drawer faces for the new cabinets. The paint used is Benjamin Moore advanced, interior alkyd.
The way you hand the doors with hooks is interesting. Nice touch.
i had the same splatter issue with my earlex 5500. i watched videos and listened to people say they were spraying right out of the can and they seemed to be getting awesome results... with my same gun. unfortunately i never could duplicate. I ended up switching to the Fuji mini mite 4 and going with a slightly smaller tip to help with atomizing and the splatter went away. i only use my earlex 5500 for thinner topcoats now.. it is definitely a learning curve... meanwhile paid is $32 per quart. so i am paying for that curve. lol . great video by the way.
Great job! I love that you documented the learning curve and mistakes too... it helps us newbies kinda figure out where we are going wrong. The Kitchen turned out beautiful!
Thank you!1
Rollers and brushes are in the past! Spraying gives a much better finish to any surface. I understand the preparation is a bit lengthier with the spray set up, but the finish pays off! I’ll never go back to the old ways if I can avoid it. Great job and brilliant idea of the coat hanger!👍🏼
Thank you!
According toe Marty Schlosser, BM Advance setup for Fuji systems is:
- for 4 stage or more thin with water 10:1
- for 3 stages start at 9:1 and go to 8:1 if that doesn't work
Use water only (no fleotrol) and a 2.0mm aircap.
I have not tried this yet though. I have a 3 stage and sprayed with a 1.8mm but had to thin the product so much i lost track of what the ratio was. The big spatter at the edges of the fan are normal for spraying BM Advance I have read.
It also helps if you remove your air control valve and just hook the gun directly to the hose or hose whip.
I know this video a little older but just some advice, I have sprayed advance a lot with hvlp and the sweet spot for thinning seems to be 10% water, sprays great. I have since started using general finishes enduro white poly, which can be tinted to any color, it’s almost as thin as water and sprays much better, dries fast, and it’s a harder more durable finish.
I'm building kitchen cabinets for my son and his wife. Just started spraying Benjamin Moore Advance primer with my new mighty mite 4.
First spray was today.
A bit of orange peel that I'll sand down and shoot again tomorrow. Definitely going to be a learning curve. Nerve racking, but alway fun to learn a new skill.
Thanks.
Good luck on your project. Another member suggested to me taking off the whip hose, which will give you a little bit more pressure since the ball valve is removed. I have not tried this technique myself, but it might help.
Give the new command product a try on cabinets.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Super helpful for us non-pros.
Glad it was helpful!
That was a great video. Thanks so much for making it!
Thank you! I appreciate the comment.
Brother I have three sprayers and my recent purchase was an Earlex 6003. HVLP. I though I was pretty good with my sprayers but man there’s a learning curve with these. I have a really valuable tip I learned from my research. Get yourself a piece of glass. Maybe 3x3 or bigger and use that for testing you stay patterns and the velocity of your paint. What I have found is the velocity is crucial for setting down a smooth pattern. The other thing I found was making sure you put down a wet coat (enough paint). But I will tell you that if I had not had that glass to test on I would of spent a ton of time resanding. What I saw with yours is the paint velocity was not thin enough. You will be surprised on how thin you have to reduce some paints. If you see spatter like that add more water. Lol. Great video by the way. New subscriber.
I think you mean “viscosity”, not “velocity”.
Great job. Thanks!
I like your videos. Your lacquer video gave me a lesson which worked very well. I've used what your using in the video. I had similar problems it was trail and error.
Thank you Peter! I appreciate the comment.
@@BigNicky77 can I ask why don’t you spray lacquer with your hvlp? Or why didn’t u just spray your latex with airless? I’m looking for fine lacquer finish and am trying to decide which to get... hvlp or compressor. Can you offer some insight? Thanks
I've sprayed a couple of days of latex with the minimite 4, and a couple of things that helped me was removing the air vale from the whip hose (that restricts airflow a bit), and using floetrol instead of water. Past a certain point thinning with water makes the finish dry too fast, and if it sets before it levels out you're left with a tiny bit of orange peel.
Those are some great tips, thank you!!
I just used mine for water based poly on some hardwood maple stairs I did. I did get a little bit of orange peel and did thin down with water a little bit. You think the floetrol would have helped?
@@chadhouse1375 For polyurethane you want the appropriate retarder / extender. Most companies sell their own, but they're mostly interchangeable I find. General Finishes have their "enduro extender", SamaN sells the topcoat retarder, etc.
@@NoDude Thanks George! So your saying I just need a product extender?
@@NoDude The product I used was called WB 2K from Hirshfields. Great product I just had a little orange peel that I didn’t like because I’m a perfectionist. I guess 20 years of doing all phases of drywall will do that 🤣
Very nice!
I have my five stage turbine and I thin the paint for 25 or 30 seconds extraordinary finish , no running
Definitely judge the viscosity of your paint by the way it flows off the stirring stick. 20 years as a motor vehicle sprayer and never used a viscosity cup, never even saw one. That’s how I was trained. Picking up after 40 years on different equipment with a different paint I think I will use the same method once I have determined the visual flow pattern off the stirring stick. From videos I can see it’s a slightly different flow stream than what I used for car paint back in the day.
Excellent
The texture looks amazing I have been watching your video and it seems like the machine works ok I don't know what is your opinion of it I'm looking to get one so I noticed that there is one now at home depot but was worried that the machine might not have the power to move the paint but it seems like works from what I'm seeing in the video also the blue door that you show has very little orange peel texture, good show
Excellent, thanks for the demo!
I like the way you built your island, did you make a video of that build??
I’ll check your channel
Thank you! Didn’t film the island build
Oh crap I had paused the video right before you said you thinned it. But what I’m seeing is that you need to thin that more. This system should spray with very little splatter/ orange peal. I reduce mine down to around 27. With all do respect, whoever you are watching that is saying that velocity doesn’t matter, well I wouldn’t take their advise to put it mildly. Lol. This system is very finicky but if you dial it in correctly it’s absolutely amazing.
He means “viscosity”, not “velocity”.
Beautiful tutorial-thank you so much. I have the Mini Mite 5 Platinum coming. Will spray 67’ of iron fence. I’m curious to know which needle cap set you used?
How many coats of primer and topcoat? Nice work!
You should just stay on the fan pattern to spray all of it. Don’t use the ball pattern for cabinets.
I disagree when spraying shaker doors. Staying on the fan pattern puts too much product on the rail when you’re trying to get the inside of the panel.
@@BigNicky77 if you spray at the right angle it won’t.
Awesome job dude! Do you mind me asking what Kind of paint is that. Brand and color name. Thank you sir. That turned out fantastic.
Edit: I guess we don’t answer comments anymore. Ok.
Thank you for sharing your experience spraying with the MM 4. I have the same fuji setup as yours but only spray lacquer or oil based enamel. I'm considering trying water based paint such as SW Emerald paint using my MM 4. Did you use latex or oil based paint for your top coats? Is the Bondo glazing putty you used a two part product? Again, thank you for your extremely useful and well done video. Everything about it is excellent.
Bondo glaze is one part from squeeze tube it is dark red so two coats. I use it all the time.
I've sprayed a whole bunch of cabinets with a Graco handheld airless. it was a huge learning curve, but i can get a pretty amazing finish spraying latex paint, with hardly any orange peeling at all. That being said, its a huge pain. Airless wasn't meant for fine finishes. I've been thinking about buying a fuji 5 stage. how was the finish on yours? orange peeling much?
Minor orange peel on some pieces. I’m getting better with the details, I think it takes time to get into the sweet spot.
Are the holes where the hooks are screwed in on the hinge side of the door? Do you go back and fill them?
You refer to videos you watched to help you learn. Could you give a link? Many thanks.
Search “Brian CNC”
How do you hook the hangers in? This is so much better than the way I tried to hang
They have a thread on the bottom. Lowe’s and Home Depot have them.
Would you recommend this machine for furniture refinishing? I tend to paint most of my wooden furniture with oil based paints. I saw the fuji semi pro that has a two stage turbine, but I do not know if that's good enough, I tend to paint by hand on average 4-5 hours 4 days per week.
I would recommend Fuji projects for furniture finishing. Reach out to their customer service experts and tell them what you want to do, they will suggest the right machine for you.
Was the advanced thinned? Looks great
It was, about halfway through the video I adjust it to be thinner than what is recommended, I can’t remember exactly what I say but I give a measurement for the Ford cup. Flowed much better.
Nice video but decrease your paint flow especially with the bigger tips like a 1.8
It’s interesting you mention that. The one thing I like about an air compressor powered HVLP gun is that you can increase the pressure to accommodate the higher flow. I disliked not being able to adjust the air pressure with this Fuji system.
@@BigNicky77 yes that can be a snag, that's why I went for the Q5 because I like being able to adjust my air...with the Q5 u can at the turbine and with the supplied shut-off valve at the top of the hose just below the gun.
But nice work!
Looks good. Why did you decide to go with latex instead of the precat?
I used Benjamin Moore alkyd enamel. I didn’t realize that they could tint lacquer to the same color I wanted until after the project was done. I would have chosen lacquer knowing what I know now. This paint is good, but lacquer appears more durable.
Nice work Nick. Looks great.
@@jonking6715 thank you Jon!
Which precat would you have went with if you had a choice. Water based or not etc. Thanks
@@waynehanlon4037 I believe the paint store recommends oil based when tinting, but most the professional stores will look at your color palette and point you in the right direction.
latex paint is tto thick to paint through a stage 3/4 turbine - thinning it out to a sprayable liquid compromises the strength of the paint -- airless is the only way to spray latex/hybrids
That hasn't been true for a while now. Modern turbines are getting high enough psi, the MM4 is at 9.0 psi IIRC. You need retarding agents, a large aircap, and to take the air valve out. Even then it still takes forever to spray, but it's far from impossible to get finish that's damn indistinguishable between the two.
The kick to the teeth is HVLP is a lot less forgiving with thick finishes, and it's what most woodworkers have, so people give up trying to dial in HVLP for latex, and end up over-thinning or living with the orange peel.
Try to increase the psi in the turbine
The mini mite 4 has a fixed turbine, I think the next model up has the adjustable fan. This model does have the air control valve on the whip, so you can decrease it but you cannot increase the airflow.
Nice job, I also Had a very similar set up to you. There is definitely a learn curve! Keep a book, tip size, temp, humidity, ford cup flow, all will help get repeatable results. I have found thinning material more than recommended helped eliminate splatter. Also 3 M cup and liner system gave me a much better finish as well as allowing me to use the gun upside-down to get the edges of the doors with out lifting them or changing the spray pattern. Good luck
@@dm1075k sounds good, thanks Dale!!
Hi Nick, really appreciate your videos. I have some bookcases I'm trying to finish. I bought a Fuji semi pro2 gravity feed to spray acrylic lacquer. The bookcases had some water damage. Do you have any ideas or tips before I spray?
That came out very nice. I can’t wait to use my Fuji to spray clear oil modified urethane on newly stained doors and trim. By the way, where is the best place in Reno to get a discount on Benjamin Moore finishes