VTX Repair - TBS Unify Pro HV
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2018
- This VTX was a tough one to repair... the reason for it being dead is that lipo voltage was fed to the 5v output. This resulted in a bad regulator, rf amplifier ic, rf generating ic. Usually in this type of situation its best to have the schematic and not go blind with guessing whats dead but, this is life, we can not have schematic for every electronics. I was lucky that I had on hand another unify pro 5v(pcb had a problem) from where I stole the ic's from. But only the rf generating IC and regulator are to be found the rf amplifier, unfortunately, has its part number laser etched out so that would be hard to find. But I hope this is a nice video from where you can learn something.
If you guys have any questions please leave them in the comments section below.
Thanks !
![☀ Эффективный видеопередатчик для дикой дальности. Обзор, настройка, замеры. [Rush Tank Solo VTX]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rUGnBm6hPLo/mqdefault.jpg)
That was a really interesting electronics discussion and I ended up watching it all closely. :)
I feel the same! I want to learn how to repair those things and I like Livyu videos for all the info he provides when speaking during repairs :)
This video taught me how to solder properly. There are so many videos teaching you how to solder, but not how to correct the mess that you've already made. Thank you si much.
Crazy repair video, following you now. I just started using my new reworking station, i hope to get better quickly with your guides.
Great quality repair guide! I've got no use for this, but as boring as a 17-minute repair video on a PCB should be, this is quite interesting to watch. I love watching SMD rework stuff close up - it just looks so cool. I might play this video on my second screen while doing other stuff sometime.
This is exactly what i needed! People donate broken gear all the time to my kids club and i have just begun repairing them.
Love your flying but your repair videos take the show your amazing
More videos on repairs please and identifying LDO regulator problems? Im fascinated presently with thus. Thanks Livyu great video:):):)
I saw the entire video. Amazing
Thanks soldering master 👌
I sense Jc blue falcon spirit in you..
Yes please Jc is sorely missed! I have been searching all over for this info in videos related to our hobby, more please? and Thanks so much :)
Good vid men ,thanks 🌟🌟💪
You are top solder man ;)
Great video thank u
Thank you.
Great help thank you so much, I have several TBS unify pro that still work but have a weak signal, they should be putting out 200mw but actual measured output is only 50mw, I had found that the pigtail conductor had broken off the SMA connector and I don't know how long it was run in that condition. I replaced the pigtail with a new one and still have the weak 50mw output. Would you suspect the RF generator or the RF amplifier is damaged? I want to try fixing one, your video has really inspired me. Thank you for the tip on leastering the IC's off using a hot air gun BTW great work, you are an excellent technician.
😱very good 👏👏👏👏
Excelent I see your first ldo repair video and I try to repair two VTX but no succes. I was looking for this!!.. i will try again, I need to know what chip is dead!!
hello, nice video, helped me a lot on how to solder things...at which temperature are you heating the board with the gun? thanks!
Amazing!
Great set of videos, i would be interested in seeing a video where you change a mosfet from an ESC for example.
Tixo next vide is exactly about that :) 4in1 esc
awsome!!! i need to do such a fix :)
Thanks for your work!!! Where can i found the component ]:: 721 STA ? Its near the button. Thanks!!!
JST-GH (locking 5 pin) and JST-SH are both super common connectors, and available at Arrow/ Digi Key, and most of the other usual suspects. A lot of hobby shops carry the cables now as well.
Well locally I could not find them :) and other products from where to steal them for. Why bother i like soldering :p
Thanks you. Great video.
You forgot to add the LDO p/n.
true, sorry, this is the part number: AP7365-WG-7 it is a variable LDO 600mA and it is set up to output 4.2 volts.
Thanks!
Ids that the same part for the Race HV (800mw) version? Thanks!
When you say you don't want to get solder on the ground plane, is that to keep everything flat and matching up with the side contacts on the board?
What is the part number above for the LDO, you mentioned it was in video description?
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/diodes-incorporated/AP7365-WG-7/AP7365-WG-7DICT-ND/4505315
Hi! i fall in a similar issue, i was using my tramp hv until i crash and broken the antenna cable and about 2 minutes was past before i realize and swicth off the vtx.
Unfortunally before check the functionality had the brilliant idea to change cabling and i maked i mystake by sending +batt to the 5v regulator output, quickly switched off and restored correct connections. After that i try it, everything seems work correctly but cant find signal with the goggles, tryed to change channel, band and power succesfully with the nfc everything seems to work but seems no signal is coming out. I also checked the 5v output and it is there, but sure something is broken.
So wht you think was the problem? the antenna broken during trasmition or my cabling mystake? Wich component could be broken? Did u find some schematic of the TBS or Tramp?
Thx
hello I want to get help on a subject. I used my ts5823L vtx transmitter without antenna and the device fell silent, which part needs to be replaced
Excellent repair! Where can someone buy those tweezers?
Humboldt710 on profile website ... digikey or such
How did you diagnose that it was the Rf chip?
Hi, I enjoy your videos and this one in particular as I have 3 Unify pro vtx that I suspect are broken. So, here is my question: These VTx do power up ok, but I get a very fainted video signal out of them; I need to get my VRx really close (less than a meter) to get a video signal and as soon as I get away it just drops completely. I have checked the vtx settings, the antennas and even try recalibrating the VRx, but nothing helps. So my guess is the power amplifier has gone bad or something that has to do with the video power output. Can you provide hints on how I could go about testing this issue?
I have the exact issue. Did you ever fix it?
@@lIIustration Ended up replacing the VTx. Got myself into the TBS Unify Pro HV Race ones, and they are so far the worst ones I have had, since they only operate in the 25 mW and 200 mW power output ranges, and it's indeed just for racing cause as soon as you gain some altitude I start loosing video feed. I should have paid a bit more for the full TBS Unify Pro HV which do go up to 800 mW, way better for freestyle flying.
Do you have the link for the chip. Cheers
Great work man, you know you're stuff, how do I get ahold of you to repar a fc and an esc for me?
Critical Reaction sorry man, can't do repairs, I barely have time to make this repairs and even so it would be to expensive for you with shipping and all
hi, the antenna positive track has broken, do you know where I can weld the positive antenna?
follow the signal path (it should be visible where the trace was. it is from the black part to the cap
look at 1:25 you will see on the doner vtx same situation as you describe. and you will see what to connect ;)
How do you decide whether or not to use solder paste? I've seen you use it when replacing chips, and in this vid you didn't. I'm just curious what the reasoning is.
Does the TBS UNIFY PRO 5G8 HV (SMA) have a mounting board on the market?
Yes, made by WhiteNoise FPV.. they work great! :)
I have a 20x20 4 in one esc that smokes motor 1. I’ve put two motor on it soon as you plug in battery it kills the motor. Any idea what this could be?
A shorted FET is probably responsible, that's usually what fails on an ESC. There are usually 6 FETs per motor (2 per motor to provide both polarities), and normally they switch on and off rapidly to provide the 3 phase ac needed to spin the motor. The normal failure mode of most switching semiconductors is to short, which in this case sends DC to the motor right from the lipo. I've had particularly bad luck with 20x20 HGLRC and similar ESCs, especially the ones made before the 40A model was released (about Jan2018). Use a 1156 auto bulb in series with your lipo to protect the motor for testing (The classic "smoke stopper" - it will light and limit current to about 1.5a) Hope it helps...
Thanks very much I’ve recently reposed the fets and shorted again trying to get hold of mosfet driver
I really like your repair videos! It would be nice if you talked some more about how you diagnose the problems instead of soldering. But awesome anyways.
Thanks for the suggestion i will try to do that :)
Please post the link to the part mentioned in the video, for the variable voltage LDO, thank you kindly:)
www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/diodes-incorporated/AP7365-WG-7/AP7365-WG-7DICT-ND/4505315
@@jordigrau83 Dude awesome thanks so much.
I have a couple of those. There`s not much instructions if anything included from TBS.
my pigtail is demolished, do you know where to solder
If you look on the TBS website faq, there is a diagram to what pads you can use for direct wiring.
Hello friend, I have the TS5828L wtx device malfunctioned. When I connect the power, there is no reaction in the device.
I only ran it once without antenna and the device failed.
my guess is 3.3v is after 5v regulator. thats a quite common schema
How did you identify a bad part on the board? I wish you show how. Changing parts is the easy part finding what is bad is hard
It is an old video... but I think I measured all the rails and that one was missing and after that, I used a power supply to feed the rail externally and it worked. equal bad regulator. :)
@@LivyuFPV thanks this video helped me alot great work
Do you charge for doing this? Considering the price of a new one is it worth repairing like this?
If you repair it, it is :)
normally these things don't get hot? these things will cook an egg during "normal" operation. can't even tough them they get so hot. good work tho
Offset yes they get really hot they were not designed to work 100 duty so this is why they get hot but it is resonable :)