Thank you for the no BS. video . My truck had airbags added and they removed the module from the frame and relocated it. I found it with in seconds and only watch a few minutes of you video.
2008 Silverado 2500hd Duramax 210k miles. Rust Bucket from Canada. Excellent video. I first replaced the controller itself because it was quick and only $25, but soon realized it wasn't the problem. Went to the fuse box next and could see a the bad 30amp fuse. Replaced it, and immediately heard/saw it blow. When I googled "... trailer brake controller fuse keeps blowing.." I found your video. From start to finish you helped me along. Replaced with an in-stock OEM part from Autozone for $62 and fixed the problem. Mine had the same crack in the same spot as in this video - must be a commmon fail. (Can find OEM on amazon or rock auto for cheaper but didn't want to wait) Thank you so much for the help!
My code reader doesn’t read the code but my friends snap on reader told me the relay was toast. Mine shorted during yesterday’s rainstorm. I ordered a new GM one for $29. Thank you for showing the location of this module.
Hahaha. It looks worse that it was. It was snowing lightly while I did this job outside. I used compressed air to get rid of the snowflakes and moisture before I finished up.
Excellent video man! Very in depth & informative. I'll be performing this exact repair tomorrow on my 2012 LML. I have the module & a j case fuse to replace the original. Thanks again!
Was yours close to the driver side fender or in the back on the top side of the spare? I need to do this on 2011 LML and I cant find the Relay. Thanks!
I’m getting 3.5-4v out of the electric brake pin on the truck. My brakes are not activating on the trailer at all. I can adjust the power level of brakes for trailer. But when I go to actuate them I get nothing. 2014 3500 Silverado with the Duramax. Replaced Relay.. same issue still.
I changed the relay, but didn't change the fuse. Fuse was good when I checked it with my multimeter. So light went away when I drove to work. Driving back it came back on. I don't know if the relay is the cheap or just something in the truck messing it up
I cannot find the integrated break controller on my 2011 5.3 Silverado.. dropped the tire looked at the harness through and through. I cannot identify it any where. so did so of them have it installed? my truck didn't have the other 2 under hood wires hooked up, found them hooked them up. but still having problems at pigtail
I think this module is only on the frame if you have the brake controller built into the knee bolster as installed at the factory. Do you have the factory brake controller in the lower dash?
Gmc 3500 diesel duramax . Have a brake problem . The pomp work . I have no message in dash . Trailer connected or not. Anything. Check fuse on truck. everything on trailer work pomp work. When we connected the pomp work intermittent and no message in dash.
So, the trailer brakes work sometimes but don’t work other times? I would start by trying a different truck for that trailer if possible and see if the problem still exists. If the problem is still there than the problem is in the trailer connector or wiring. If you put a different trailer on your truck and the problem still exists than than the problem is in your truck. I’d start by carefully checking wiring connections at the plugs. I suspect that there is a loose or dirty connection n
I have a 2008 Suburban k2500. The only way to get brakes to work on trailer is to engage the manual lever on the brake controller. I also do not have power going to trailer to charge the batteries. I swapped out brake controllers with a new one and no improvement. I am trying to find the solution. We had fuel tank repairs so I can help but wonder if mechanic messed up the wiring or not.
If these are new symptoms since the fuel tank repair it is smart to wonder if there was a mistake by that mechanic. I believe there’s a separate fuse in the truck for the battery power to the trailer. I’d be looking for that.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY The fuse for the trailer power is very obvious on these vehicles. The trailer power supply wire was an extra wire adjacent to the fuse box a person can hook up on a terminal. The fuse is good and the terminal is getting power. As for the part you replaced in your vehicle it appears those are only used if the vehicle comes with a factory installed trailer brake controller. As for mine there was a wiring harness with four wires I was able to hook up to the after market controller. It worked fine the first time I used it. I HIGHLY suspect the mechanics that worked on the fuel tanks messed up something and now I have to figure out what they messed up. It is weird that I can engage the brakes with the manual brake lever on the controller but the automatic portion will not work. I am going to have to get underneath the suburban to figure out what is going on. I have found no other help via youtube. Usually someone has posted something to help with most repairs, not this time.
@@dwebster68 Check the wiring that goes from the brake wire on the Suburban to the brake controller. It’s sounds like the controller is not getting the braking command from your truck for some reason.
I am figuring out my 2011. they didn't hook up the power or trailer brakes at the main fuse panel under hood. the wires were there just not hooked up. hot wire back plus trailer brakes hooked up
Yeah, the one works is a dump trailer, the one that doesnt, i just bought and it works hooked up to a ford. Not sure that matters. Ive done all kinds a shit checking stuff. Also ive hooked up to a brand new tow master that works on other vehicles but not on mine. Makes no sense at all.
@@alltree78 Is there any other extra electrical load in the non-working trailers other than brakes? I’m sort of wondering if there’s a higher electrical draw on the non working trailers and maybe your trailer brake module is too weak because of age?
Thank you for the no BS. video . My truck had airbags added and they removed the module from the frame and relocated it. I found it with in seconds and only watch a few minutes of you video.
2008 Silverado 2500hd Duramax 210k miles. Rust Bucket from Canada.
Excellent video. I first replaced the controller itself because it was quick and only $25, but soon realized it wasn't the problem. Went to the fuse box next and could see a the bad 30amp fuse. Replaced it, and immediately heard/saw it blow. When I googled "... trailer brake controller fuse keeps blowing.." I found your video. From start to finish you helped me along. Replaced with an in-stock OEM part from Autozone for $62 and fixed the problem. Mine had the same crack in the same spot as in this video - must be a commmon fail. (Can find OEM on amazon or rock auto for cheaper but didn't want to wait) Thank you so much for the help!
Awesome. Glad this helped you!!
My code reader doesn’t read the code but my friends snap on reader told me the relay was toast.
Mine shorted during yesterday’s rainstorm. I ordered a new GM one for $29.
Thank you for showing the location of this module.
You're more brave than me to have that much moisture in your fuse box!
Hahaha. It looks worse that it was. It was snowing lightly while I did this job outside. I used compressed air to get rid of the snowflakes and moisture before I finished up.
Excellent video man! Very in depth & informative. I'll be performing this exact repair tomorrow on my 2012 LML. I have the module & a j case fuse to replace the original. Thanks again!
Was yours close to the driver side fender or in the back on the top side of the spare? I need to do this on 2011 LML and I cant find the Relay. Thanks!
Thank you my friend !
Nice job! Thanks for sharing
Well my module came today hopefully it's the same for a 2010 2500 suburban I will find out tomorrow!
Amazing video, thank you sir!
I’m getting 3.5-4v out of the electric brake pin on the truck. My brakes are not activating on the trailer at all. I can adjust the power level of brakes for trailer. But when I go to actuate them I get nothing. 2014 3500 Silverado with the Duramax. Replaced Relay.. same issue still.
Start by checking your grounds. You may have issues there.
I changed the relay, but didn't change the fuse. Fuse was good when I checked it with my multimeter. So light went away when I drove to work. Driving back it came back on. I don't know if the relay is the cheap or just something in the truck messing it up
You might have a bad connection elsewhere. I’d be looking at the trailer plug in the bumper and maybe for corrosion in the fuse box.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY I'll check it out, thanks for taking the time to reply 👍
I cannot find the integrated break controller on my 2011 5.3 Silverado.. dropped the tire looked at the harness through and through. I cannot identify it any where. so did so of them have it installed? my truck didn't have the other 2 under hood wires hooked up, found them hooked them up. but still having problems at pigtail
I think this module is only on the frame if you have the brake controller built into the knee bolster as installed at the factory. Do you have the factory brake controller in the lower dash?
Gmc 3500 diesel duramax . Have a brake problem . The pomp work . I have no message in dash . Trailer connected or not. Anything. Check fuse on truck. everything on trailer work pomp work. When we connected the pomp work intermittent and no message in dash.
So, the trailer brakes work sometimes but don’t work other times? I would start by trying a different truck for that trailer if possible and see if the problem still exists. If the problem is still there than the problem is in the trailer connector or wiring. If you put a different trailer on your truck and the problem still exists than than the problem is in your truck.
I’d start by carefully checking wiring connections at the plugs. I suspect that there is a loose or dirty connection n
I have a 2008 Suburban k2500. The only way to get brakes to work on trailer is to engage the manual lever on the brake controller. I also do not have power going to trailer to charge the batteries. I swapped out brake controllers with a new one and no improvement. I am trying to find the solution. We had fuel tank repairs so I can help but wonder if mechanic messed up the wiring or not.
If these are new symptoms since the fuel tank repair it is smart to wonder if there was a mistake by that mechanic.
I believe there’s a separate fuse in the truck for the battery power to the trailer. I’d be looking for that.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY The fuse for the trailer power is very obvious on these vehicles. The trailer power supply wire was an extra wire adjacent to the fuse box a person can hook up on a terminal. The fuse is good and the terminal is getting power.
As for the part you replaced in your vehicle it appears those are only used if the vehicle comes with a factory installed trailer brake controller. As for mine there was a wiring harness with four wires I was able to hook up to the after market controller. It worked fine the first time I used it. I HIGHLY suspect the mechanics that worked on the fuel tanks messed up something and now I have to figure out what they messed up. It is weird that I can engage the brakes with the manual brake lever on the controller but the automatic portion will not work. I am going to have to get underneath the suburban to figure out what is going on. I have found no other help via youtube. Usually someone has posted something to help with most repairs, not this time.
@@dwebster68 Check the wiring that goes from the brake wire on the Suburban to the brake controller.
It’s sounds like the controller is not getting
the braking command from your truck for some reason.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Sounds like a good idea. After I check it I'll update this posting.
I am figuring out my 2011. they didn't hook up the power or trailer brakes at the main fuse panel under hood. the wires were there just not hooked up. hot wire back plus trailer brakes hooked up
Wheres the fuse???
Mine is blowing the 30 Amp Jcase fuse even though I replaced everything. I must have a short. Argg
You’ve replaced this relay module already? If so, check the trailer connector plug for contamination also.
@JoesCarSmartsNY Everything was replaced. Keeps blowing the fuse. I will take a look at the plug something is shorting
My problem is i have one trailer that the brakes work fine on and one trailer that they dont but do work on a different vehicle. Im freaking lost
Does the non-working trailer (on your truck) work properly on another truck?
It does
Okay. I see that in your first comment now. My bad.
Do both trailers have the same number of axles with brakes?
Yeah, the one works is a dump trailer, the one that doesnt, i just bought and it works hooked up to a ford. Not sure that matters. Ive done all kinds a shit checking stuff. Also ive hooked up to a brand new tow master that works on other vehicles but not on mine. Makes no sense at all.
@@alltree78 Is there any other extra electrical load in the non-working trailers other than brakes? I’m sort of wondering if there’s a higher electrical draw on the non working trailers and maybe your trailer brake module is too weak because of age?
This relay is no where to be found on my 2009 1500
Hmmm. This was on a heavier truck with the integrated brake controller in the knee booster. Does your 1500 have the integrated brake controller ?
@@JoesCarSmartsNY yes, it does
@@JoesCarSmartsNY possibility it's under spare tire.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY yeah so anyone with a 2009 1500 the ITBC is under spare tire. Good luck getting the spare tire to drop though!!!!