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@@yellowmanusa Thanks for the feedback! Glad this helped you. I didn’t know all the small details going into the project, but a lot of commenters helped fill in the gaps.

​@@JoesCarSmartsNY Joe! I got 'er done! Very easy like you said. Can't tell ya how much I appreciated your video. There are a few out there, but yours was my go-to. (Trust me, I've seen them all!) PPE Deep Pan went on like a glove. I used a MightyVac extractor and drained as much as I could from the standpipe bolt hole. Then cracked the OEM pan just slightly to allow a thin vac-hose in to suck the fluids out. Worked like a charm. I was able to see the exact amount of fluid sucked out. I added as much of the small amount of fluid that spilled into the container below (because a little will always spill no matter how careful you are) into the MightyVac container so I could get a super accurate reading on amount that I would need to replace. Then since the PPE Deep Pan adds exactly 4 qts. I knew exactly how much to add in total. After heating the fluid up using the same method you used, I only had to vacate just a slight little-amount to get the fluid to trickle out of the standpipe. For those of you reading this and wondering, I can tell you from mine, when I dropped my OEM pan, I got exactly 8.25 qts out of the tranny. I am the original owner of the 2022 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD. The tranny was never serviced, and I have exactly 17,260 miles on the clock. I did also confirm some metal bits as big as a 1/8 the size of a grain of rice. Maybe 3 total, and the rest were metal shavings and very fine metal dust-like particles that would sparkle in the sunshine.

Unfortunately this car ended up getting a new engine installed. This repair fixed nothing.

@@pavsplace967 I think so. The gray plug should be a brake light bulb. I would remove the gray plug and see the bulb model number that’s in there. Then I’d cross reference the correct brake lightbulb for the car and if they match then that’s the right one.

Thank you!

@@lamrof I have a background in electronics and a thermal fuse is a common failure for heating elements. Also, I used a multimeter to verify the fuse was not passing power anymore.

Happy to help!

@@mysterwhyte3535 you’re welcome! I’m glad this helped you.

@@diverdave4056 Those types of labor quotes are why I share my projects here. Some projects can be done my people that are good with their hands and can’t spend hundreds of dollars.

@@JoesCarSmartsNY I was SHOCKED that they said it would take 1 1/2 hours just to remove a few screws and pop tabs ??? if it wasn't a pain to find and release those yellow grill tabs - I can remove the whole bumper in less than 10 minutes ! 1A Auto sells the headlight housing far cheaper than the dealer and they guarantee them to fit and last a long time ! I installed them on my 2002 Accord and a few years later they fogged up - they sent me new ones

@@user-bx7nw1ve6y Okay. Well…now my reflectors are on all the time since I always drive with my lights on. They also serve as extra turn signals to alert other drivers.

@@JoesCarSmartsNY How do you know your tail lights are always on? Electrical malfunctions do tend to occur. It's likely that none of the drivers I've encountered with tail light troubles knew the condition existed. This is just a really dumb idea that should be avoided for safety's sake.

@@user-bx7nw1ve6y 😂So, if I mysteriously have a total tail light failure…having additional tail lights is more dangerous. I understand you don’t like the idea. That doesn’t make it a hazard.

@@JoesCarSmartsNY Having the lights all connected to the same faulty electrical system is what's dangerous. The reflectors are there in case that ever happens.

@@mikea4074 nope. I let it live right there.

@@jealous36 watch starting at 3:00

Please review the comments. The “drain” plug is also how you set the fluid level. I learned this later. However we drove this truck another 50k miles towing almost daily with no issues.

So you have a wire with 12 Volts on it right now and you want to find out what circuit feeds that wire?

@@JoesCarSmartsNY Yep, and the installers (nitrous) did not fuse any of the control circuits so pulling fuses is unlikely to find (is difficult to pull fuses in this car.) I want to trace from the end of the wire to where it's getting the 12v. Can't disconnect wire since don't know where it goes.

@NoferTrunions I would disconnect the battery and attach the tester at the nitrous bottle or wherever you have the wire. Then try to trace that wire with the wand to where it goes. It’s best to use this tester on a circuit when it’s off. It will probably damage the tester if it’s used on a live 12V circuit.

@@JoesCarSmartsNY I'm also thinking even if the battery is disconnected (that's a 2 hour job on this car), if the wire had 12v 24/7, the PCM also has that, so the signal injector might possibly hard the PCM.

@NoferTrunions Two hours to disconnect a battery is wild. Sounds like a fully customized car?

My solenoid was bad. The beginning of the video shows how the new solenoid works correctly. The rest of the video teaches you how to test the old solenoid to determine if it’s bad or not.

Worked perfect.

@@areamer1 I’ve never tried to clip them back together because when mine have failed those white clips have broken into a couple pieces. If your clips are not actually broken you can try to clip them back on, but I’m suspicious that the clips were brittle already and maybe it wasn’t really Dads fault they broke.

@@JoesCarSmartsNY Thank you for the fast response! 1 did pop off only because he was holding it steady with a crow bar and it popped it up but it only popped the top of it off so it appeared he was able to "pop" it back on but when everything was put back into place the wipers wont move but you can hear the motor moving so I know that works. before we changed the motor we were hearing unseen noises loud and no movement would come to the wipers so I knew the motor was blew so now there is no noise with the new motor and the wipers are not moving along the window

Without seeing it in person this is a tough diagnosis. You might have the motor misaligned with the arms. Or the arms may be disconnected at the motor now.

Oh btw, the estimate for the rear shocks and coils was $2.5k and the estimate for the front shock/coil tierod and swaybarlinks was 3.5k I bought all the tools i'll ever need for $800 I bought $1k in parts. As long as someone like this makes a video I won't take my vehicles to an auto shop.

@NicolasIchihara Those quotes are bizarre and probably close to the vans value. WOW.

@@JoesCarSmartsNY yeah I live in a weird place. I stay in an apartment adjacent to a private golf course and surrounded by mansions. Other shops were about half the price. I got my 2013 sienna for 10k last year.

Agreed! Cut off the sway bar. The Allen wrench was a

@@darrellfaison7778 I’m glad this helped you!

I explained it exactly as it’s done. Those two wires have ends on them already. The bolt on the new terminal goes through both of the ends and you tighten the bolt to secure them.

I’m sorry. I don’t know. When I need parts for things like this I send the manufacturer a picture and they help me identify the model.

Do you have the old terminal off?

You can buy the dipstick on Amazon if you want to. Or you can be precise measuring what fluid comes out and replacing exact amount after.

@@JoesCarSmartsNY which is great if no one changed it before you and screwed up the amount they put in..