Tricks for removing stubborn or broken bolts | Hagerty DIY
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2018
- Losing your mind because the only thing holding up your project is a seized bolt? Davin Reckow is here to show you the tools and techniques you’ll need to get those frustrating bolts out of the way. Whether you’re a practiced wrench in the garage or a newcomer, it’s always good to know how to get over those project roadblocks.
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Good job! In my experience - first, spend 20 minutes looking for your vice-grips - then - bang your knee on the corner of the table. As you're on the ground rubbing your knee have wife/girlfriend come in to ask if you're going to mow the lawn or not because it's about to rain for 20 days and nights. Find vice-grips in a box under the table labeled "not vice-grips". FINALLY, grab your torch that has just enough gas to heat it up halfway and break off the ear of the casting - go purchase a new casting that costs $1200.
Dude, I really hope that was a creative writing exorcise and not based on a real life experience 😕
@@garrettwight1027 It was an exaggerated reality I think we can all agree with, at least parts of.
@@garrettwight1027 that is life.
Wow am not the only one 🤔
Or the wife interrupts with cheese toasties and finger foods
Doing it ALL wrong.
You swear and scream at it till it removes itself!
LOL
Doesn't quite work like people. You might have to roundhouse it.
You forgot step one! 1. Carry item to main street on Saturday afternoon then commence with your method (i.e. - step 2).
Don't forget to go to the liquer store and pickup some beer before you start.
Gee, I thought that cursing would do it?
I was glad to hear you clean the threads out of the hole with a tap.
As a Michigan tool and diemaker (Grand Rapids)
I run into this all the time. You did a great job teaching this. As a seasoned T&D I know a good Technical Trainer when I hear them and you sir are one of them.
Pay Attention to this man people.
Haven’t been to many welding shops that were more than happy to help me with anything ha. Better off finding a friend to help out
Kelly Full An automotive machine shop is the more likely choice to recommend. Welding shops aren't typically going to be skilled in this kind of procedure.
100 + per shop hour charge they should be very happy.
@@magicone9327 Welding shop guys who know their trade are expensive. They are happy as long as you meet their fees, ha.
All good and thank you !! One additional "tip" that needs to be included on this subject is to suggest the use of "Anti-Seize" when using studs or bolts in aluminum.
I use "Copper" anti seize because regular Anti Seize IS Aluminum, and you want dis similar metals..
I use service removable loctite it stops the oxidation
I use that stuff on everything.
PTFE plumbers tape works well as anti stick.
He's 2 for 2 in 5 minutes and I'm like 2 for 50 lifetime.
That’s better than me , I’m about 2 for 150. Lol
@@Chevy-hw6lw It's normal. His were easily accessible and you have a much better chance when the bolt is in aluminum cuz it expands more than steel and loosens itself. =)
@@Chevy-hw6lw me too lol
Thanks for showing those methods Dave. I especially like the nut welded on.
Another bit of useful tech from Davin! I'm a big fan of fixing with fire.
I'll add a couple things that have worked for me.
Use a nut about 2 sizes bigger than the bolt or stud, it allows the weld to travel all way down the remaining threads and is less likely to break the nut off.
2nd tip for steel in steel, weld it, let it sit a minute, hit the bolt only with a shot of penetrating oil, then try a wrench on it. By spraying the hot bolt/nut it is cooled quickly and almost breaks the seized threads away from the tapped hole.
I was taught way way back to use a rich acetylene flame, and soot up the area where your going to heat. When the part is heated the soot will stay in place. When the soot disappears (burns off) the part is heated to just below the melting point of the aluminum.
I'm addicted to your vids! Awesome job :)
Ya good work! I place a flat washer under the nut before welding when possible thanks
Take care be safe
Sounds like a good idea. In his case I think the washer would have been a bad idea since he needed to get good contact from the nut to the bolt.
I had a seized exhaust flange stud and a guy heated it up with an oxy-acytelene torch and used a pipe wrench to back it out. The pipe wrench to me worked a little better than vise grips because it grips harder as pressure is applied.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge....even though looks quite easy, I have come across broken and rusted bolts a no of times..... Thanks for sharing.
DAMN!!! THE WELDING IDEA IS JUST JENIOUS ! Well done sir!
respect for this video! guys working with their hands and heads are worth of highest respect
Wow! Thks so much for the tip. It's more than informative it's a lesson for the less technically inclined
Sir , Please make more videos of engine rebuilding time lapse..... Your videos all 6 to 7 are just incomparable...... They are just a piece of art..... Big fan of your time lapse vids..... Thank you 😀😀😀
I still have nightmares from removing a whole exhaust and set of exh studs from a 911 Porsche that had been on salted roads for 10 years. The nuts were rounded off from rust and most of the studs were so rusty they had no thread left on them except where the nuts were. This combined with car being on the lift made it an interesting job to say the least.
Outstanding!...Thank you very much.
Thanks for this short and useful clip!
Very useful video. Keep up the good work. Thanks
Knew these 2 methods from my old man.....just used welding 1 day ago to remove a broken bolt from aluminum mount....good video !
Outstanding job
Thanks for this guys, got a snapped bolt on the cylinder of my bike holding the that holds the exhausts on, got to give this a go!
Great way to approach that stuck screw by welding the nut. That gives me an idea to do the same in removing a seized chrome dust cap from a crankset on a road bike.
Thank you, it's very helpful for me. Hope you can make more videos like this. I'm a vietnamese mechanic
great video davin they keep getting better and better man cheers
Excellent tips, thanks for sharing!
Usefull video .... Thanks
This is the best thing I've seen all week! Thanks.
Mechanical porn
Very cool video to remove studs using a torch and Mig welder.
For the broken stud I use a couple of drill bits to drill out the center of the stud and gradually enlarging the bit size, then used the vise grip to remove stud or an easy out tool.
I did these two exactly procedure when I was doing my 1967 Firebird and installing the 455 in it the timing cover had two stuck bolts and one was broken short
Good, short, quick, effective. Thanks.
Hey thank you for posting/sharing, thats a great idea, with the nut.
I use to have a little slim 4" pipe wrench. Worked really well on brake bleeding with some liquid wrench
I like this and will definitely try it when I buy a oxy, acetylene rig next week. Never could get mapp hot enough without killing the part before. Couldn't even finish the procedure at hand before causing some issue with the part.. I've been using Kano Kroil or aero Kroil. It really is a great product to try for frozen parts. I stopped using PB blaster altogether, and other off the shelf catalyst removers as they don't work near as fast and effective. Unfortunately It will literally damage the metal over time so get it off quick when you use it! Thanks for great post, love this video!!
2 MORE PONTIAC Parts Saved ! Thanks for a great Video!!
Awesome information. Thank you.
Another tip. Esp. If you only have a propane torch, you can use your household oven to preheat the piece. If it's 0 degrees in your shop, you might run out of propane before stud/bolt is freed from a beefy steel component! I do remove all sensors and seals if at all possible.
So satisfying to watch 🔥
This was helpful, thank you
Also I found that if you let the nut and stud cool off for a minute the nut doesn't breakaway for the stud. Then there is also the fun you have when the stud is broken off below the surface and you don't hit the centre of the stud exactly with the mig to build up a little mountain to sit the nut on. The weld locks the stud to the side of the hole. JOY, JOY, HAPPY, HAPPY. Oh the joys of being a mechanic.
Thank you , My l98 intake is off and both t stat bolts are broken , great video .
had a morris minor engine the bastard never came off despite using all extractors & coaxing it with all anti rust- had an extractor broken until he was grinded on a pillar drill - studs coming with vice grip with these techniques are really modest !!!!
Thanks for the very useful tips
If you use a gas welding method to heat the part but also want to cut metal parts while you rented the equipment....be careful for the flashbacks and backfires.
When the part starts to spark you should have some type of smock of body cover because a piece of that molten metal can land on you. Or......one just might go into the Noozle hole and put the flame out which is dangerous as a Backfire because the fire in now inside the torch handle and can melt that brass or travel up the hose to the tank of acetilene .
You might hear a Pop where the flames goes out....but if you hear a high pitch whistle you need to turn off the gas first so the oxygen blows it out .
If the tip of the Noozle doesn't have a nice cone shaped flame inside the regular flame , the copper Noozle can be removed and file flush while there is another internal file that is like a paper clip size rod to clean the hole for a perfect opening .
Welding the nut to the stuff remnant is brilliant! I've welded bolts on, with mixed results, so that i had a good hex to grab. Why didn't i think of a nut?! Thank you for sharing this.
Super idea. Thanks
Excellent thanks
now the oxy-acetylene one gives me hope. I spent a day with same trained on exhaust-studs of my Yamaha XJR1300 and they wouldn't budge. I think what I did wrong was heat the stud instead of the alloy. was worried about melting it. can believe how little heat you put on that one to loosen things up
Thank you much Davin I'm a big fan of you budd and I follow your amazing videos with your amazing work always... keep up the great contents my friend
I have a Snap-on extracting kit part number is BEX13A and it amazing all you need is this and 3/8 ratchet
Nice and informative video. Thanx for sharing
I love this. Do more!
Removal of the first bolt I agree with your process completely. The second bolt I have two issues. First one is that you never back turned the bolt to clean the threads. Second issue is an argumentative one on the usage of the combination wrench. After breaking the bolt loose most mechanics/engineers would use the open end for ease of wrench placement and speed of removal. But due to the failure of back turning the bolt resistance was not reduced.
Great demo. Thanks
Pretty nice. Thank you
Welding the nut is a great idea! Thanks!
Understood and saved for future reference! Thanks!
Ahhh... so after I go to welding school, I can get that bolt loose! Thanks Hagerty!
Ahh c'mon Davin.. this was no challenge. How about a part not easily accessible, two steel rusted components that have been stuck together for 40 years. Oh and from a car that sees snow and salt.
(O[][]O) ,
And spent half its life in the bottom of the lake!
And is rare as hell with parts not available anymore.
Like muffler bolt/nut..
Well not quite as bad as that but my Jeep XJ has been 20 years by the sea in Scotland ( Harsh snowy winters/salted roads ) - currently fighting broken rusty manifold studs - trying everything Aghhhhhhhh!
If u can, run the engine for 15/20 minutes, and then try to losen those bolts, when engine is hot..
Thanks for the video
Nice👍🏼I used this when I built my gokart on my channel
very good tips!
Great Job mate , Soaking around the thread with brake fluid first helps , it’s is a great penetrating oil.
I learned both of these when I was an apprentice operating engineers mechanic (1970)
The other part of the trick is to put a washer on it . It helps keep you from welding to the housing .
I wish i saw your channel early. Thanks for the video
Great job!
Good job. Good luck. Thanks for your video lessons
Big thanks!
Great video!
Helpful to spray some penetrating oil into the base of the stud when its warm (not hot) to allow the oil to lubricate the alloy thread. Avoiding this will sometimes mean that the alloy thread picks up on the stud thread and you end up with a hole that's lost its thread.
Awesome and those look like Pontiac timing covers I’m working on a Trans Am has one like it.
Easy peasy with the right tools and a little knowhow.
Nice idea about placing the larger nut over what was left of the broken bolt.
sometimes on smaller bolts that are hard to weld inside the nut I just weld a washer to the stud then weld the nut to the washer
Pontiac V8 timing covers. You're a lucky person if your water replacement doesn't require you to extract broken bolts. At least one or two usually break.
Enjoyed that thank you
awesome idea bro.
I seen a machinist trick of using paraffin (candle wax ) for dissimilar metals like aluminium housing and iron bolt. Paraffin doesn't burn off like penetrating oils do. It worked excellent for me. I used it 3 times, lawn mower, alternator bolt and the a tach mounting nut for our Ferguson to35. Just heat gently and rub on wax. Then work bolt back and forth until loose. Repeat as necessary.
Good job
Nice job! Next video maybe removing rusty control arm bushings? ;)
Awesome! Thanks
Thanks, like the weld the nut trick...pretty nifty.
So simple but never thought of it
It rarely works. It works here because the aluminium around the bolt is thin.
what was your weld settings?
Awesome video I loved well done and well explained ❗✌❗
Well done .
Thank you sir.
This is amazing
Great stuff thanks .
Excellent
Thank you, I will try the torch method for a bolt broken partially into a bell housing I have issues with right now. Otherwise it will become drilled and extracted.
Thank you
I like to Tig weld the studs and build an area for vice grips or nut. This also allows you to actually heat soak the part as you weld, unlike Mig. Mig is a faster process but you are very limited on heat input, and in this case heat input is your friend. Some wax and oil also don't hurt either.
verry good info. that's one way of doing it.
Davin--From the title, I had the impression you would be removing the broken bolts using only normal hand tools. So, I still need to find someone with a welder to do this. Fun video, though; at least you removed the bolts with minimal fuss. It's always interesting to watch people perform work that know what they're doing.
Great video sir
If its protruding file the bolt as flat as possible. Then use a fine edge, file a nook in it until you can fit a flathead. Saves me every time
Can you make a video for a deeply broken bolt or stud this would be very helpfull
Heat until starts turning red, then shock by hosing water on the bolt. Do multiple times and eventually it will loosen.
Ray Bod the video just said aluminum don’t turn red it bubbles and he Recomended not to over heat it. How would you get it out then?
@@stogie0608 theres a video by ultimate handyman on this exact topic
@@Greaner762 And Abom79 also did a great video on the same topic
Very helpful.