Extract Broken bolts from deep hole NEW easy WAY
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- čas přidán 2. 02. 2021
- My bolt extractors are collecting dust. If you don't own a welder, this trick will pay for itself in one go. This is the first time I've ever shown this trick and I have never seen anyone else use the copper pipe. However, I'm sure someone out in the vast world has also come up with the idea as well and will quickly point it out to me. This is my go to method but there are still scenarios where a reverse drill bit would be my first choice as that is probably the quickest. However if those don't bite I move onto the welder/copper pipe.
Get your own reverse drill bits: amzn.to/3rhX0jB
With Mig or Flux:
Do it just like I show and don't burn away your copper. Go slow. On bolts over 1/2-5/8" you can also insert a steel pipe/tube inside your copper. Weld down the center and weld the steel pipe to the bolt. The copper will protect the threads. You don't need to fill the entire center to the top, just enough to bond the steel tube to the bolt. Twist out the steel tube/bolt assembly. This works best with large bolts.
With stick welder:
The flux helps insulate the sides. If the hole is large enough(1/2"+ bolt), insert a copper pipe to protect the threads and then a steel pipe inside the copper. You jamb the electrode down inside the steel and the rod will weld itself and the steel tube to the bolt. Throw a pipe wrench on the steel tube and pull it out. The larger the hole the better this method works. You can use this method with smaller bolts and just the copper but you have to be a GOOD stick welder.
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So after watching this video, I had a customer bring me a truck flywheel with a broken stud deep in the hole. Did exactly what you did in this video, and it came out very easy.. made 100$ ... so where do I send you cut?
That's fantastic. I'm glad you tried it.
@@cuttersgoose youtube now reads human minds i swear lol
@@jamescole2266 lol...wouldnt suprise
@@jamescole2266 yeah...it does something, all right.
It's listening to you talk
welder+ scrap heap = most of the specialized tools you'll ever need. awesome
Thanks Ryan. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
You forgot the "mechanical inclination" that is needed.
99% of the population couldn't extract a broken stud, if you gave them a MIG-welder, a broken screwdriver, and a cup of black coffee.
Anybody that gives this a thumbs down has never had to remove a broken off recessed bolt. Thanks for the tips and, I had a sixtyfourford.
Anybody who gives this a thumb down can go smoke a pickle. Every video Moe puts out has valuable content. If you don't agree, just go away.
Old heating system thermocouples are also good sources of copper tubing.
Thanks Guys. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
They should make it that if you give a thumbs down you have say why. Then maybe we can find out what these numb nuts are on about.
I'd agree with that never seen or even thought of that way before always reached for the blow torch when I've been in that situation. Luv these golden nuggets of information, tips an tricks or what ever you wanna call it. 👍
This is what I love about CZcams, kind people like yourself taking the trouble to share knowledge. Thanks for the video.
I have been doing weld bolt extraction for decades, but using a copper pipe to shield the threads was brand new to me. Excellent! No need to run a tap through a weld-damaged hole.
I learned about welding a nut over a broken bolt many years ago. Using the welder to remove a deep set broken bolt is a mind blowing game changer. So simple, yet so perfect. Well done man!
Thanks Corey. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
I'm that *guy* who you mentioned lol, I have figured out the same trick! I've done it a handful of times, and it gets easier after the first time lol... I'm sure you know another one where a large recessed stud can be blown out of an alloy casing with a torch (if it's in a blind spot where you can't see) but that's industrial level shenanigans
@@campbellpaul could you elaborate please?
@@southernshop8424 If a casing is zinc alloy metal, a broken bolt can be burned through using oxy acetylene without damaging the female threads. It is only practical, however, on large municipal water pumps that cannot easily be dismantled, but where a torch can still reach. The bolts break from metal fatigue caused by vibration... It's a practical solution to a most unusual problem, so please forgive me for mentioning it.
@@campbellpaul As an ex-Coast Guard Machinery Tech, I concur. Not for the squeamish!
I have been doing this for 35 years with a arc welder. It is great to have guys like you with a youtube channel to show stuff like this. CZcams is like a encyclopedia of knowledge and experience.
That is awesome!
👍😘
WERE YOU USEING THE COPPER TUBEING ??
@@joeJrbill he was using the copper tubing for a barrier from threads and a mold for molten metal from welder.
It’s amazing how many unique techniques we take to grave, sharing is caring!
As soon as you showed the copper pipe it clicked - "Of course!" Why didn't I ever think about that!? Genius! I've used brass and copper so support flat weld repairs, but I've never put two and two together for deep bolt/stud repairs. Absolute genius. Thank you.
Me and my brother have done it like this for over 20 years. Dont remember who had shown it to us but we also used one bad screw driver for dozens of bolts. Great job on this video!!!
This is the best tutorial out there for removing broken bolts.
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
I've been doing it this way for decades. Nice to know somebody is passing this knowledge along.
I've never seen this extraction technique before thank you so much for sharing it!
And here I thought I'd seen all the broken bolt removal methods. That copper pipe is genius. The screwdriver is a cherry on top. Great stuff.
I worked in a shop that rebuilt gas turbines from aircraft and power generators.
Lots of broken fasteners of all shapes and sizes. The welders were like magicians with their extraction techniques. Much respect.
It’s an art that separates the men from the boys. Anyone can work on clean perfect parts
@@Eastahtata ditto
Amazing! I have been wrenching and welding nuts on bolts for 20 years and never seen the copper tube trick...I will be using this at some point I'm sure. Thank you so much for sharing.
Wow! I'm impressed! I thought I knew what I was doing in my shop but you're never too old to learn new tricks. Thank you!
Thanks.
I've been pulling wrenches for 30+ years. Never seen the copper pipe technique before. Learnt something today! Thank you sir!
I always look forward to what new tricks/ideas you come up with.......I finally figured it out......the dog comes up with the ideas and clues you in....great dog!
Thanks Tom. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe..... Ginger told me to say that.
Me want dog!
@@sixtyfiveford To me, your very clever dog looks like an Australian Red Cattle Dog. Am I correct ?
@@biopsiesbeanieboos55 apparently they don't want to talk about the stolen land wow
Love the copper tubing trick! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Matt. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
This is what I love about youtube. People helping people. Thanks for the tip!
Using a copper pipe shield was so great for protecting the aluminum threads. I will definitely use that in my shop work.
I have been a mechanic for 15 years and i gotta say thank you. this already saved me twice now and will save me a ton in the future.
Great to hear!
I never used a copper pipe on a hole like that. Very nicely done, you made it look much easier than it is to do. Great job.
Absolute gold especially on the deep bore!! Thank you!
I removed a broken O2 sensor bolt the other day. I first welded a flat washer to the broken bolt then welded the nut. Isaac from IC Welds showed me to add the washer. It insured a better welding surface. Your copper pipe trick is fantastic. I will incorporate it into my skill set. Thanks!!!
I've never seen the copper tube method before, but it's as close to perfect as it gets for this job. Using the "sacrificial screwdriver" is so simple it's brilliant. Excellent.
See this is why I always watch your videos. I have been watching your channel for a very long time and 99% of the time your methods are not only something I’ve never seen before but ALWAYS useful. Never something stupid or silly and can be used by new or experienced users. I may even go as far as saying this is probably the most useful channel on CZcams.
You're Awesome. I always enjoy your input.
Wow, that was super clever! I have never came up with that idea! These type of videos is what still making CZcams a great platform!
Wow, I've dealt with many bolts broken in deep holes and they are always frustrating and difficult. Sometimes leading to a drill out and special inserts. This is by far the BEST method I have ever seen for getting them out while protecting the threads. Thank you for the clever and efficient method. This is now my new goto method for getting this done.
You should try stud extracting stick rod
@@jeffreykey5452 Just learned an extremely important tip that I will never forget.
I took a few welding rods with me to purchase some copper tubes. There are precious few size options to choose from for both. My small collection of materials give me somewhat limited options, but I'm ready for the next deep bolt extraction provided its the right size bolt. I could use my mig (as you did) for big bolts too, but I might need to practice some before feeling confident about doing that.
@@jeffreykey5452 I will look into this. I was not aware that such a rod was available.
After being a mechanic for 50 years and and thinking outside the box while Macgyvering many unique problems to solve . I am impressed you taught an old dog a new trick i cant wait to try! Thanks
I come from the auto repair environment and for twenty years I have been using extractors, but I have to say that welding will be integrated in my business quickly, thanks to you. Thanks a bunch for sharing you tips. 💪👌
It's such a time saver. I hope you try it out.
I fucking hate using extractors. They love to break off in the fastener you're trying to remove. Just did one a couple days ago. Got lucky and was able to remove the end of the extractor and finish drilling all the way through the bolt and ran a smaller bolt through the hole in the stuck bolt and used a nut to secure the headlight onto the radiator support. Luckily it was a very low stress point so it didn't need much to hold the corner of the light in place.
Oh man! I needed this. I knew about welding a nut on but never saw this method for one recessed deep like this. My son was putting taking of the water pump on my Bronco and broke a bolt way down in through the timing cover. Haven't really had time to do much other than trying to use and easy out (which was not working) I will have to try the copper tubing trick. Thanks for the video!
As a brand newbie to welding... But as a guy who has been struggling with broken bolts and aluminum wave runner heads and exhaust components for the last 15 years... I am so glad I found this video only weeks after I started to weld. And I'm also glad that I never had to learn the old way if this is the new way to get him out of the deep pockets!!
Man, you are seriously innovative, this is the third video I've watched of yours, and the common sense approach and tips are very useful. New subscriber!
When welding out a broken bolt that sticks out, tack on a flat washer that fits the bolt.
This increases the inside diameter of the nut you can use. which allows you to add more heat to the bolt and the material it is in. The flat washer tends to protect the host material better, too.
It also helps to pour some water on the red hot nut , which shrinks the bolt even more, making it easier to extract.
When trying to extract an especially stubborn bolt out of steel, I have found that an overnight soak with a 10% Acetone/90% auto trans fluid mix really helps as well.
You literally just changed how many of us do bolt extraction. We have all seen the way to get a flush one out, but this is a game changer.
I always teach people tap down on that Bolt before anything you were the first one to show people what I've been teaching forever
Thank you for saving my restoration of a really nice motorcycle. I was looking at trying to find a case for the engine because of a recessed broken bolt. The cases are impossible to locate. I can't Thank you enough for this video. WOW, it works.
Have known about the nut weld trick for a long time but never seen the copper tube trick. Badass man
Works good for backing a hole in metal you intend to weld closed too, so the weld doesn't drop thru as easily.
@@MrTheHillfolk (
I love this info! when purging the hole with gas. Consider setting wire feesd to zero so not to have to deal with the push out you’re experiencing. Awesome job!
You've taught me so much over the years with your videos
DUDE!! That’s the best extraction I’ve ever seen, and I have watched a lot of them. Brilliant! And came along at the perfect time for what I’ve got going on. Thank you for this video
Hey Thanks.
Wow, I wish I had seen this years ago. I worked at a sawmill and had to remove grade 10, 3/4" X 2-1/2" bolts broken off well below the flat part of the machine. I used a short welding rod, 7018. It was in a bearinged casing, so I had to start the weld and have someone pull the ground off as I welded. The welding rod would then stick to the bolt and I would (most times) be able to turn the bolt out. Lots of anti-seaze would then be placed on the new bolt and torqued to 110 ft lbs. Every weekend. It started with just the back three bolts (every weekend I would replace the back three, broken or not, plus the ones on either side of the broken ones). Then five, when it got to 11 or so , the company finally put a new ring and bearing on. The new ring had 7/8" bolts that went all the way through and had nuts on the other side. This machine picked three to four logs at time to put up on the log deck. Most of the logs were 40 to 44 ft long and about (on average) 12" in diameter. That was my first machine center I had in that sawmill. I worked that machine center for the first 3 or 4 years, then I got to move inside the building. Thanks for the fine memories. LOL
It's weird, as soon as I see that you were using copper tube I guessed what you'd do! It's intuitive!
Great video, I'd never have thought to use the copper as a shrowd to protect the threads.
Tip-top tip!
Very nice video and very relevant demonstration especially the usage of the copper in this context. Congratulations and thank you very much.
All joking aside, these are some cool tricks.... I’ve had a few bolts bust and could always use some new tips and tricks. Thanks for the vid
You sir, are a master of ingenuity! Thanks for all of your helpful tips through the years! Great job on your videos, they get better all the time.
Thanks Man. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Thank you - I’m 56 yrs old and this just taught me something new! Great information 👍🏼
I've used the latter of the 2 methods.
But the recessed copper tube method is brilliant!!
Thanks for the video!
Love the way Ginger is training you.
I know!
Every time I watch your video I gain new knowledge, can't thank you enough for sharing all you know with us all.
Hey thanks
THAT is the whip!!!!! I can hardly believe how quickly that worked out! Like a sore weener! YOU CAN'T BEAT IT!!!!!! I very much appreciate you sharing this, brother!
Amazing Mo! Can’t wait to break a bolt off, well almost.
Thanks Shaun. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
New blind hole broken bolt extraction method acquired!
Thanks to you :)
You got 266 wd-40 users angry so far 👍
The WD-40 people were mad before this video. That stuff doesn’t work any better than kerosene and the “smart straw” makes it even worse.
And counting.....haha
The only bond breaker I use is heat . I’ve been at it for 60 years.
+1 to Mechanical Repairs
@@gregpetty4185 the only time I use it , is after the heat and it cools down some (so it doesn't smoke like a bitch) just so it unthreads a little easier ..........oops , hahahah he just said the same in the vid at this moment 😝
Awesome trick man never seen this done with the copper and I love your dog and his game on the stairs at the end just made my day man! Thanks
Lassie has trained her master to throw a ball up a stair. Impressive!
Love all your videos! You save me from allot of headaches! Keep the videos coming please!
Thanks Paul. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Been a machinist for about 55 years, and I'm embarrassed to admit that I've never seen this technique before. Not sure that it'd work for most situations, but I'm willing to try it out. Thanks for the new option.
Glad you liked it
Been a barber 42 yrs. My favorite thing is when a young (or old) hairstylist shows me something I've never seen before. Life is learning.
@@saltycreole2673 I'm in the porn industry and I like when the young pornstars show me something new
I’m in the same boat. It seem brilliant and I did learn a new way, even with 40 years of experience.
Happy to see this. Never did it with a wire feeder. Two things. Copper does bond to steel when done properly. Penetrating lubricant with HOT stuff. Beeswax. Been used by steam fitters for many years. Great video!!
great tip with the copper pipe, never seen that before.
Thanks. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal.
That is an amazing trick with the copper tubing. I knew about welding the nut on but never thought of using something like copper tubing. next time I have that problem I'm definitely going to try that.
Copper sheet metal is great for any repairs that you are doing to aluminum also.
A friend of mine is a great TIG- welder.
When I brought him a small aluminum engine block, and asked him to weld a hole closed ... he used copper as a backing for the repair, then filled the hole with aluminum rod. The copper kept the aluminum puddle from sagging, or blowing through, and didn't stick to the repair after the area cooled.
I filed that one in my arsenal of cool tricks, for later use.
This is truly next level stuff and I'm not at all surprised you showed me something I never knew existed, and I'm no spring chicken. awesome stuff !
Wow, thank you!
One smart method to remove broken bolts!
Love the dog! So cute playing catch.
I have been using the welded nut method to remove broken bolts for years. In 2008 I started working at a trucking company where the mechanics had been trying to drill out broken exhaust manifold bolts. When they screwed up the cylinder head trying to remove the bolt, they would replace the cylinder head. I showed the other mechanics they method and saved the company thousands of dollars. I couldn’t believe the other mechanics had never used that method before!
I worked as a maintenance man for a big company and one day a salesman came by and showed me a welding rod that I stuck into the hole and it just built up and out of the hole. Then take a pliers and unscrew the broken bolt
That copper tube trick to protect the threads is extremely useful. Thank you for sharing.
When my basic SIP Mig welder was misbehaving (and I was only a little further down the learning curve) I managed to get the welding wire to weld itself to the copper nozzle!
Too close, too low feed, too much juice - probably. Anyway, the tiny hole got fully blocked with wire, and no matter how hard I tugged, the wire would not break free.
It’s possible to fuse most metals together in the right (or wrong) circumstances. Low temperature brazing brass to stainless steel is one of the best examples.
Sometimes a file can fix the burnt tip if the weld isn't up inside the tip too far. Saved me from having to stop working because it was the last good one I had on the weekend when the weld shop is closed.
Awesome tips! Here's another one many will be interested in to do this in tight places; I figured this out just now when I had to remove a broken water pump bolt that was sheared off flush. There was no room in the engine compartment to even think about drilling, so I decided to try my luck welding it with a stick welder with a bent rod because there wasn't even enough clearance for a mig nozzle. Since the nut had to be sideways, gravity wasn't on my side. I found that you can use masking tape to hold the nut on (probably helps shield it as well), but the surface must be very clean for it to stick; using wax & grease remover worked well, but alcohol would be just as good. With very little clearance and only seeing it sideways, the first time I didn't hit the stud first, it hit the side of the nut and failed. On my next try, I put tape over the whole nut and punched a hole in the center just big enough for the welding rod to fit through so I could position it dead center; this helped alot! I used a 1/16" 8013 rod at 40 amps DC.
Thank you sir I ran into that on my friends Cadillac what a pain and one of my Pontiac muscle cars. Why they put small bolts I don’t understand Chevy 350 are good to work on for beginners
Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for. Had to search past other / lesser videos
Best video ever. I wish I had a dad like you when i was growing up.
Hey, I am a 65 year old mechanic Blacksmith construction you name it. Good stuff. Never too late to learn something new. Familiar with the welding the nut on technique, however never saw the copper insert technique. Just got old school stick welders. however, could use one of those real skinny rods in there. Thanks much. You are a true Genius. PS I am a new subscriber just forwarded this to my boy who is a mechanic as well. You are the man. Keep up the great work. Feel better about my own shop and tools when I see yours. Without the tools and equipment you can't fix jack. right? Have a beautiful day thanks again. Jim
Great tip, well explained and executed. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Mate, this is one of the best wksp top tips I've found. Extremely impressed. Regards to you from an independent garage in Hampshire UK
Much appreciated!
Best technique I have seen with the copper over the weld a nut technique I been using for ages
A valuable piece of knowledge. Thanks for that.
Thanks Wireguy. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Brass shim stock wrapped around a screwdriver two three times to get the thickness you need so you don't blow through ,then insert in to the bolt hole . Good job on a new twist from days gone by.
Great video and love the copper thread protector trick...Been attempting to drill out a Grade 8 bolt broken off deep inside a 9/16 bolt on a tractor motor . Extremely hard to drill out. This trick might just save me a lot of time. ..Thanks for sharing....
I like the first method very much, the second method I put penetrating fluid on first then I place a washer over the bolt, weld that in place then place a nut on the washer and weld that in place. I learnt it a few years ago and I have done quite a few turbo manifold into aluminium heads with success every time. Great channel 👍
This is awesome. Thank you for taking the time to teach us this technique. Some more knowledge in my toolbox from a good teacher!
Nicely done! Puttin' this one in the memory banks.
Thanks. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Awwww MAN! Wish I'd seen this last year when I broke two slide bolts deep in my front brakes. That would have saved me SOOO much headache. Great video!
This is so cool. Wish I had seen this last year. It looks much easier. Now I have to go find something with a broken recessed bolt to do it.
👍 Great video and method. The bolts broken at high torque though would not seem to be an issue to me though. When the head comes off you should loose the tension unless the bolt or threads are stretched. The issue Id say especially in the lawn mower parts is moisture and corrosion.
I believe you can also buy stick electrodes for building up broken studs in recessed holes, I think they have a special thick flux coating to reduce any chance of the arc straying sideways onto the parent metal. I’ve always welded a large washer on first to protect the parent metal and allow the use of a larger nut. This I find gives the opportunity to really get some heat into the broken bolt/stud, which expands to break any seal, (rust etc) and when cooled slightly, will usually unscrew.
I do the same thing with a heavy washer on top then a nut welded to the washer. I use a tall enough nut so I can weld inside it and around the lower outside edge. Have never had it not work. I always weld a washer before even trying with out it. with.with out it..
@@buckshot8393 great idea brotha, that master tech.level
Glad I stopped by to see this vid. Thank you.
Man this is an awesome trick! I wish I knew about this year's ago! Thank you for sharing.
Very nice angular approach to a never ending predicament , I have to show this vid to the son in law who constantly has a wrench in his hand. Thanks and cheers, say hi to the shop dawg!
Thanks! Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
For 20 years I've used aluminum soda cans. Cut a piece out roll I up and put it in the hole. Mig weld doesn't stick to the aluminum. I've used it to remove bolts on dozer tracks.
And is thinner than the copper tube wall...and available almost anywhere in the globe.
That's one of the best tips I've ever seen anywhere for anything. Good going sir!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’m super impressed! Never seen that before. Well done 👍🏻
What a great solution - thank you so much for sharing
Thanks Man. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
AT 3:20, you kinda answered your own question ( and you may already know, but this is for those that don't). The pipe cutter is part of the flaring kit. Propane lines, kerosene lines, and alot of mobile homes use flared fittings. BTW, that triangle piece on the back of the cutter is used, too. You cut the pipe with the cutter, then you take that triangle part and stick in the end of the pipe you're getting ready to flare and twist it around, like deburring, only deeper (getting it ready to flare). Doing that keeps the end of the pipe from splitting when you flare it. I like to take some sandpaper and run that around the outer edge of the pipe (to get rid of any micro splits that could turn into bigger splits). Slide the nut onto the pipe and then stick the end of the pipe into the flaring tool block (making sure it's in the correct OD hole), to where the end of the pipe is on the side that's countersunk and flush with the surface of the block. Secure the flaring tool onto the block and screw it down so the point goes into the pipe, flaring it. Take it down tight, but don't overtighten (or you'll split the end of the pipe, rendering it useless). You can see the pipe flare out and fill the countersunk area. It's done. I like to take the sandpaper to the end of the pipe again, as it has to mate up with a machined fitting and I want a good seal.
I'll never look at a broken bolt the same way again! Great Video!
Finally a video that actually knows how to remove broken bolts. I don't know how many I've commented on. Rounded heads, same solution. People using easy outs or completely redrilling and tapping holes or grinding slots and using a screwdriver etc. Those are things you do if you don't have a MIG.
For bound up threads, heat is your friend.
Got some sacraficial parts, and I'm going for it! Thanks for the tip. Good day
Thanks Karl. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Awesome technique! Never seen this one, but noted! Also, in really tough situations you can heat the female very hot and touch a candle to the thread area after you weld on the nut or screw driver. Sucks the wax in in like solder and lubricates much better than penetrating oil. We use this method in Alaska on the rusty saltwater infested manifolds etc....works every time.......knock on wood so far.
Man,this knowledge is worth thousands!!!!! Thanks a lot!!!!
Had to do that once in a motorcycle head. But i used a tig with no protection. Got the bead up and out and put vise grips on it. Talk about a happy camper! But that tube is a really smart idea! Thanks for the show!
I've learned a lot from this channel over the years.
Thanks Will. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
Very educational and interesting 🤔 I'd like to say it's always good to see other new ideas and custom ways to work things out where it is less stress I've welded in the past a lot over at WES T RANS which I worked for almost 9 years I will definitely give this a whirl
Amazing. Great process, thank you for sharing!
Wow, how cool was that! Never seen this great technique before. Good job.
Great tip, thanks for sharing! Between you and Mustie1, you guys are unstoppable! Lol
Thanks. Just another trick to throw into the arsenal. -Moe
And Andrew Camarata