HOW TO: 9 INCH REAREND ASSEMBLY/INSTALLATION INTO 82-92 CAMARO/FIREBIRD F-BODY
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- čas přidán 11. 12. 2021
- In this video we show how to assembly and install a Trick Chassis 9" rearend into a 1990 Camaro. Procedure will be the same on any 82-02 Camaro or Firebird.
ABOUT THE TRICK CHASSIS 9": 0:31
ASSEMBLY: 9:20
REAREND REMOVAL: 22:20
INSTALLATION: 36.43
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I'm working on my own 85 Iroc-z LS swap project, and these videos just gets me more motivated!!!
Thank you for all the videos..
Glad to hear it brother! You guys keep watching and sharing the videos and I'll keep making them!👍
Ahh time to get started I’m basically copying and pasting the CC build on my 91 great content, can’t wait to install my firewall brace
You are buy far the best 3rd gen video guy on CZcams
I’ve been watching you for a couple years ever since I bought my 92 Camaro
Thank you!!!
Wow, thanks!
Nice work. I’ll be installing my 9 inch from qp this week.
Love all the videos man! They have helped me on several parts choices for building my 92 LS swap Camaro. I figure I will have to do this rear end swap at some point as well, so I’m saving this one for reference! Keep it up man! Your car is evolving well!
Thanks for watching and for the kind words brother. Glad to here the videos are helping you out!
Building the same car
currently building an 89 Camaro, and your fuel system video was amazing, and all the content you're making is beyond helpful.
thank you brother!
Thanks brother. I’m glad you’re finding the videos helpful!
@@BadLuckGarage every video you’ve made has either helped or changed a purchase of mine. Beyond helpful. When it’s done I’ll bring it by whatever track is near you.
Nice job brother appreciate all the information as usual..great content..I watched Matt's video the other of him putting his rearend in his car..can't wait to see u back in the car and back at the track brother
Thank you sir. And thanks for watching!
thanks for all the love man! the video was awesome!
Any time!
Liked your video brother. I'm about to LSX/T56 swap my 06 STS.
Found it and answered my question, thanks bud!
👍
Haha I found it. This answers all my questions. Thanks man!
That rare end looks fantastic is fantastic. That should handle all the power you plan on putting to CC
Thanks brother. Can’t wait till the brakes get here so I can break it in and test it out. 😈
Well done video. I appreciate ya !
Glad you enjoyed it
Got my center section and Lube Locker gasket from QP. My gasket was mangled just like yours and I was a little worried about it, but it worked great with no leaks.
It’s been over a year since we made this video and I’ve just got a very small leak from around the third member. By very small I mean it forms maybe one or two drips a day on my garage floor.
@@BadLuckGarage Oh crap, now I'm worried. Mine hasn't been in a year yet. I hope it doesn't develop a leak because I don't want to pull that chunk and fix it. I went with the Strange Nodular chunk and it's heavy as heck.
@@save16thave The leak is so minor that I didn’t notice it for a long time. Even now it’s not bad enough that I worry about it. I just wipe the bottom of the housing off before I goto the track. That being said, next time I change the diff oil I’ll probably pull the third member and reseal it.
Just came across this vid after almost pulling the trigger on a QP. Seen a vid with the bracket issue and then seen this one is like the moser set up. Mind if I ask what the turn around time was on the trick chassis housing if you remember? Like the channel by the way…
Turn around time will just depend on their backlog. Give them a call.
I just bought the same setup (w/disc brake conversion) for my G body ls swap. What exactly holds the axles in the housing other than the bearings themselves? BTW, Alex at Trick Chassis is awesome!
Nothing. The bearings are pressed into the axles and the axles are held on by the retaining plates that press against the bearings as shown in the video.
Hey buddy, you can heat those bearings and retainers with a heatgun to 240 degrees and they'll drop on the axles, that's how they are supposed to be assembled.
That’s what Ray was saying about the regular 9” bearings, but since these are hybrid bearings and have the rubber axle seals built in we were worried about doing that for fear of messing up the seals.
Maaaan.. ive had a shopping cart full on Quick Perf website for months, saving up for the 9" for my 85. I consider myself a fanboy!! Hahaha. Trick Chassis you say? Hmmmmm
Yup
Did you ever end up with any clearance issues between the top of the torque arm mount and the tunnel/floor? I have the same rear in my 87 Trans Am and I can feel it hit over every bump.
It did end up hitting the tunnel a couple times and kinda “self clearanced”. Haven’t felt it hit again in awhile. If you’re car is lowered I would probably go ahead and take a small sledge and make an indentation for the rear bracket in the tunnel. 👍
Did you run into any issues with clearance on 15in wheels and the disc brake conversion?
Nope
Hey bro it looks clean mind sending me the link to all the parts used here
This entire assembly can be ordered from Trick Chassis website. They have a drop down menu to adjust what options you want/need to customize it for you and see the total cost.
What was the parts number on the universal joint for that swop.
I don’t remember but I do remember showing it clearly in the video.
I see you using the STP 80W. What limited slip additive did you go with?
It’s a spool
@@BadLuckGarage Crap, I got the QP limited slip and I've had issues getting it broke in.
@@justincrocker6098 I would either use GM additive or just use royal purple that already has the additive like I used on the Chinavette two videos ago. We used the QP house brand gears and clutch style limited slip in the DR Nova with their recommended additive and the limited slip works flawlessly BUT I had my rearend guy try to setup the gears three times and could not get them to stop whining. We needed up switching them out for some Richmond gears and no more problems. The reason I went with a spool on CC is because it’s primarily a race car and see very little road time right now. And also to save some money. But in the future I plan to switch to a Wavetrac when funds allow and as we transition it to more of a drag week type of setup. The wavetrac is the only limited slip I know of that’s proven to last is 4 digit hp applications. But it’s expensive!
With that braces rear did you run a rear sway bar ?????
czcams.com/video/7JCxyd6M_7o/video.htmlsi=ERmpM2PcYdN-TC4d
What trans crossmember are you using UMI?
Yep, covered in this video in the Chaos Theory playlist. czcams.com/video/Fya5V_xtU5E/video.html
Do you fill oil to the point of the fill hole spilling? That’s damn near 6 quarts for me
50:20
@@BadLuckGarage wow I feel stupid. Thanks for the clarification.
Your good brother. 90% of the questions I get asked are already answered in the videos. Sometimes people skip through and miss the exact parts they need to see. 😉
Looked like the long style 9" 1350 yoke.. Correct?!? I am told it's the one you need for a perfect fit with factory thirdgen driveshaft.
Standard length yoke with 1350 joints. If you’re using the stock driveshaft you’ll need the conversion joint as shown in the video.
how many miles did you put in it before getting on it?
I went over the break-in procedure in the video. Its about heat cycles, not miles.
How long did your stock rearend last
You should try watching the video. Your question was answered within the first 45 seconds of it.
where did you get this 9inch rear end?
Show me you didn’t watch the video or read the description without telling me you didn’t watch the video or read the description…🤣
I have seen you video 2-3 times already and thanks one of the best videos replacing the 10 bolt diff. Do you have a 1350 yoke the 4" billet one or the long 5" billet yoke?
@@headported 1350 billet yoke, standard length. using the extended yoke would force you to get a different driveshaft I believe. 👍
@@BadLuckGarage You said on video you got 1 1/4" or more driveshaft gap with the 1350 billet yoke and that yoke is 4" long. I am getting the long 1350 billet yoke that is 5" long so I am close to the corrected driveshaft length right?
@@headported that was before getting the proper u-joint. You don’t want any less than 1/2” of yoke sticking out with cars suspension supporting it a own weight or you risk bottoming the driveshaft out during suspension travel.
If i had known about that place I would have went that way instead of pulling my ford 9 inch out of the 85 bronco, oo well its done done so ill run what I got
I was actually gonna go with Quick Performance until Matt Walter turned me on to Trick Chassis. Saved me about $200 and since it uses the Moser torque arm bracket it didn't have the clearance issues I've heard about with the Quick Performance bracket.
@@BadLuckGarage I spent 3200 on my Ford 9 inch build, that was 33 spine(biggest you can put in a stock 9) a locker with the 1350 yoke, with the brake system for a chevy square and also that was the caltrack mono left rear-end setup. The only thing I reused off my old system was the shocks and that just for now
@@davidcunningham00 ouch
@@BadLuckGarage this game we are playing ant cheap
Is it actually difficult for you to say Ford, it sounds like it does. LOL Another great Video.
I refuse. Lol
Put viking shocks on that car
Watch the newer videos 😉
Did you use a gasket or a gasket maker to mate the third member to the rear end housing?
If only there was a video showing exactly how I put this together step by step with time marks outlined in the description for each part of the process. 🤣
A swivel doesn't reduce torque.
Thanks for watching! Glad this video helped you out!